Warsaw

N°71Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) UK - £5 EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 warsaw.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1641-5264 Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps WARSAW October - November 2012 Elektoralna and Chłodna A perfect fall walking tour Witold Pilecki An Auschwitz volunteer All Saints’ Day Experience one of the country‘s treasured traditions W eȱinvileȱyouȱloȱlheȱ ¡Iaceȱofȱyourȱdreamsȱ vilhȱaȱmagicȱgardenȱvhichȱ IeavesȱanȱunforgeĴabIeȱ im¡ressionȱǯǯǯȱ ǯǯǯȱYouȱviIIȱnolȱbeȱ disa¡¡oinledǯ uIǯȱChocimskaȱŝǰȱWarszava leIǯȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗŘȱŘśǰȱleIǯȦfaxȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗśȱşŖ vvvǯreslaurac|arozanaǯcomǯ¡I Reslauranlȱ ȱȱ isȱȱanȱeIeganlǰȱcosyȱandȱ un¡relenliousȱreslauranlȱvhoseȱdeIicaleȱandȱ IighlȱIoIishȱcuisineȱviIIȱsur¡riseȱyouȱvilhȱnevȱ Ěavoursȱandȱs¡eciaIliesȱeveryȱdayǯ ThereȱisȱnolhingȱeIseȱIikeȱilȱinȱWarsavǳ warsaw.inyourpocket.com 4 Warsaw In Your Pocket CONTENTS Arrival & Transport 12 The Basics 17 Culture & Events 20 Where to stay 28 Dining 36 Cafés 62 Nightlife 64 History 76 Sightseeing What to see 79 Palace of Culture and Science 93 Old Town 94 Praga 96 Warsaw Uprising 98 Jewish Warsaw 102 Treblinka 105 Łazienki 106 Wilanów 108 Chopin 111 Copernicus Science Centre 114 Leisure 116 Łódź 120 Directory Shopping 122 Directory 128 Maps & Index City centre map 131 City map 132 Country map 134 Street index 136 Listings Index 137 Feature Index 138 Contents They aren’t the most glamourous streets in the city, but Elektoralna and Chlodna are home to plenty of the city’s best (and often strangest) stories, landmarks and legends. We guide you step by step on a perfect fall walking tour through the heart of the city in our feature on page 8. Volunteering to go to Auschwitz? The idea sounds crazy, but Polish soldier Witold Pilecki did just that, and spent nearly three years reporting on the atrocities happening inside. His story takes a sad twist during the Communist era, and today the city is searching for his burial location in order to properly honour this hero. Find out more about his extraordinary life on page 31. 6 Warsaw In Your Pocket FOREWORD warsaw.inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o. 1999-2012. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOŁEM Ul. Poselska 20, 31-002 Kraków [email protected] It’s officially fall in Warsaw, which is truly a great time to explore the city. But while the tourist buses and roving packs hit up the well-trod streets of Krakowskie Przedmiescie and Nowy Swiat, we’re directing In Your Pocketeers to the hidden gems of Elektoralna and Chlodna for the ideal fall walking tour. Stories on these streets range from that of the ill-fated priest Jerzy Popiełuszko to the site of the famous bridge that once connected the small and large ghettoes during World War II. Happy, sad, and straight up bizarre, these tales will make any visitor feel like they’re experiencing an often-unseen part of this historical city. This is also a great time to partake in one of Poland’s most interesting and sombre holidays: All Saints’ Day. While most of you use November 1 to recover from a post-Halloween hangover, the Poles dedicate this day to fondly remembering the dead by visiting their graves and adorning them with all manner of candles and flowers. A trip to one of the city’s many graveyards is highly recommended, especially at night, where visitors will delight in this serious (and seriously impressive) occasion. Despite all the history and tradition in this city Warsaw is quick to adopt new trends, and one of our favourites is the explosion of new burger joints that have spread across the city. If you’re a fan of a two-handed meal then you’re visiting at the right time, with popular spots like Barn Burger and Lokal.Bistro winning accolades for their massive patties and leaving customers with a long (but worthwhile) wait for a seat. Should temperatures take a dip while you’re in town then seek out the awful-sounding (but wonderful tasting) hot beer. Poles delight in keeping warm via a piping pint packed with spices like clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices that will warm you to the core. As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time in Warsaw and the guide we have put together. Be sure to like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (Twitter. com/warsawiyp) for all the latest on what’s happening in the city, and you can leave comments about all the venues listed here (and more) on our website at inyourpocket.com/Poland/warsaw. And of course we welcome your direct feedback at editor_poland@ inyourpocket.com The number of cities now covered by In Your Pocket in print, online and via mobile application has climbed over 70 in some 22 countries, with an astounding 5 million city guides published each year. To keep up to date and show your support, ‘like’ us on Facebook (facebook.com/warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/warsawiyp). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is completely subjective and independent of paid-for advertising or sponsored listings. In Your Pocket writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born chil dren or other bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the right to say whatever the hell they damn well feel like about the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement from advertisers, establishment owners or the general public. The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide at the time of going to press and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers. Europe In Your Pocket Editorial Editor Monica Wright, MGW Research Manager Anna Hojan Researchers Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott Design Tomáš Haman Photography In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated Cover © Piotr Wierzbowski, Archi wum Stołecznego Biura Turystyki Sales & Circulation Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676 Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków Company Office & Accounts Joanna Szlosowska 58 555 08 31 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Published 25,000 copies, 6 times per year Czech Republic Poland Romania Serbia Bosnia Kosovo Albania Greece FYR Macedonia Bulgaria Montenegro Italy Croatia Slovenia Austria Switzerland Ukraine Belarus Lithuania Latvia Estonia Russia Germany Belgium Netherlands Northern Ireland Ireland 8 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com ELEKTORALNA & CHŁODNA Tast e pol i sh t r adi t i on U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08 www.ufukiera.pl ; O L V S K L Z [ Y L Z [ H \ Y H U [ P U > H Y Z H ^ asta 27, 8 an i nvi t at i on f r om The major sights in Warsaw need little introduction to the visitor who has already chalked up a few days sightseeing in the city. But there’s more to the city than cobbled squares and palaces on lakes as a little detour just to the north west of the central station will reveal. We’ve decided to give the lesser known and quite frankly in places, pig ugly, streets of Chłodna and Elektoralna a look to discover some sights rarely highlighted by guided tours but which are fascinating none the less. The following sights have been presented in an order to allow you to visit each in order as you pass from west to east. This walking tour starts at the western end of ul. Chłodna and brings you back towards the centre. Trams stop at the nearby junction with ul. Towarowa (D-2) and one suggestion might be to walk back to the centre via this route after having visited the nearby Warsaw Uprising Museum. Warsaw Trade Tower D-2, ul. Chłodna 51. The first point of call on your tour is at one of Warsaw’s unavoidable landmarks - the Warsaw Trade Tower. Completed in 1999 this 208-metre skyscraper stands out as a masterpiece in a city not short of latter-day architectural marvels. Tower- ing over all its immediate neighbours the Trade Tower was originally christened the Daewoo Centre, before financial disaster saw it sold off to the highest bidder (US$100 million) in what was then the biggest purchase transaction in Polish real estate history. Characterized by its cylindrical shape and odd angles it’s a breathtaking piece of work, and equally impressive from the inside. The interior design was apparently inspired by art deco Chicago, while hi-tech gadgetry includes some of the quickest elevators in Europe - 35 seconds to the 41st floor. Meridian E-2, ul. Chłodna 48. Onwards down the street and you’ll be quick to note that the tower stands out like a shark in a paddling pool. Surrounding it is practically nothing, just a stretch of grubby looking car service centres. It’s only as you reach the intersection with ul. Wronia that signs of regeneration become apparent. Straddling the corner is the Meridian apartment block, a flashy gated community, located on the site of a former engineering factory. This is planned to be the first of many aimed at regenerating this quarter of town. Featuring a two-level underground car park, Japanese garden and marble lobby you couldn’t wish for a sharper contrast to what is found opposite. Chłodna 25 E-2, ul. Żelazna 75a (entrance from ul. Chłodna). Facing the Meridian apartment block is Chłodna at its worst - a darkened pre-war tenement flanked by low-level prefabricated buildings selling hammers, spanners, mops and tyres. Then, lined up like tin soldiers, there’s enough bars to put your tour in seriously danger of being terminated earlier than expected. Things improve as you reach the junction with ul. Żelazna. Just before i t you’ll find Chłodna 25, one of the finest establishments of its kind. Opened in 2004 this is where the theatre crowd gather to discuss opening night, and i t’s not rare to fi nd stars of Pol i sh screen and stage hunched over beers while shaggy dogs sit in their midst. Don’t be surprised to walk in on impromptu poetry slams, or a performance by experimental bands answering to names like ‘The Crazy Pierogi’. The only thing missing: their liquor license. Etgar Keret’s House E- 2, ul. Chł odna 22/ul. Żelazna 74. Across the street from Chłodna 25 you’ll find the location for what is one of the thinnest homes in the world (we’re not kidding: opening the refrigerator door would necessitate standing in another room). Designed by architect Jakub Szczęsny, the steel-framed construction will be finished with Styrofoam and plywood with its wid- est point being 133cm and its narrowest just 71cm. The Israeli writer Etgar Keret, for whom this has been built, will use it as a home in Warsaw and when he is out of town, the installation (it has been listed a piece of art as it has no building licence) will act as a studio for visiting artists. Keret is an interesting character in himsel f. The son of a Polish Jew who spent 3 years of the war hiding from the Germans in a compartment under the floor of a Warsaw house, Keret sees this proj ect as an ‘external eye’ on Warsaw and its cultural landscape. He wants to show that Warsaw is a lively and multicultural city totally at odds with the image created by the Ministry of Education in Israel who he feels indoctrinate Israeli youth in a ‘pilgrimage of hatred’. The location is also signi ficant. Found on what was the border between the large and small ghettos of WWII Warsaw, the building can be found perched between a Communist era block and a pre-war tenement which is meant as a comment on the neighbourhood’s divided past ‘The buildings were not touching each other which is symbolic of the ignorance during the Communist period’ says Szczęsny. I f a symbol was needed for the district this surely should be it in our opinion. A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. Żelazna. Standing on the corner of Zelazna and Chlodna is the “Footbridge of Memory” memorial, two giant metal poles connected across Chlodna by wires. This is the location of one of the most recognisable images of the Warsaw ghetto: the footbridge that connected the small and large ghettos. At night the wires light up and create a virtual bridge in the exact location of the former ghetto bridge. The poles also have viewing windows where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw ghetto. By now you’ve also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolizes the ghetto’s borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as you tromp down Chlodna. Oberża Pod Czer wonym Wieprzem E- 2, ul . Żelazna 68. More of Chłodna’s Jewish connections later, next up is a visi t to Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wi eprzem (Under the Red Hog Inn). The story’s a good one: in 2006 workers uncovered the remains of a secret underground eatery frequented over the decades by all the communist baddi es you’d ever thi nk of - Mao, Leni n, Castro and Brezhnev to name but a few. Unearthed were a stack of medals, uni forms, manuscripts and menus, so this being capi talist Poland a plan was hatched to restore the restaurant to i ts former gl ory and make a mint from touting i t as the all -singing commi e experi ence. Of course, the story i tsel f is a l oad of poppycock, and nothing more than a cheeky PR stunt pull ed by the management. But i t was enough to fool the j ournalists and a l egend was born. Now i t’s an intrinsi c part on any tour of Socialist Poland, as well as j oll y good place to dine on Ti to Boar, aspi c and pi g’s trotters. Yum! 10 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com ELEKTORALNA & CHŁODNA Jerzy Popiełuszko’s house A-3, ul. Chłodna 15. Back onto Chłodna and you’ll find more signs of Poland’s communist legacy in the shape of rows and rows of grim concrete tower blocks. They all look the same, and make for a depressing backdrop. However it’s not for this reason that Chłodna is best known. Chłodna 15 is where Jerzy Popiełuszko, the Catholic priest murdered by security services in 1984, once lived. A fierce anti-communist Popiełuszko had strong links with the Solidarity movement and had been identified as a threat to the system. Having already survived one attempt on his life he was followed after saying mass in Bydgoszcz on October 19th, 1984, apprehended and murdered before his body was unceremoni- ously dumped in a lake. Seen as a national hero and martyr his funeral attracted over a quarter of a million mourners, and today a stone tablet sits in the centre of Chłodna in tribute to his life. Adam Czerniaków’s house A-3, ul. Chłodna 20. Standing on the other side you can’t miss Chłodna 20. Not only is this a smashing piece of art nouveau Warsaw, but there’s also a bit of history behind it all. Built in 1913 this is the former residence of Adam Czerniaków. An engineer by profession Czerniaków assumed fame as head of the Juden- rat (the Jewish led organization responsible for implementing Nazi orders in the Ghetto). Troubled by German orders to oversee deportations to Treblinka Czerniaków chose death by cyanide rather than comply, and his body is now interred in the Jewish cemetery on ul. Okopowa. St. Carlo Borromeo Church (Kościół Św. Karola Boromeusza) A-3, ul. Chłodna 9, tel. (+48) 22 620 37 47, www.parafiaandrzeja.pl. The Socialist Realist buildings found next door are typical of rebuilt Warsaw, and fine examples of this uniquely Stalinist style. Nice as it is, there’s only one thing that dominates the vision as you look down Chłodna - the splendid form of St. Carlo Borromeo Church. Designed by Henryk Marconi, and built between 1841 and 1849, this glorious building was modelled on the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica in Rome. Miraculously it escaped WWII virtually intact, with only the presbytery sustaining damage. Subject to recent work to restore the figures of the apostles that stand outside, this sits up there alongside Warsaw’s top churches. Q Open during mass or by prior arrangement. T.G.I. Friday’s E-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 29. From there you’re practicall y on Al. Jana Pawła II, separated from the clot of traffic only by TGI Friday’s. This spot is worth mentioning because of its place in gangland folklore. Back in 1999, when mafia gangs still ruled The Wild East, a mobster named Kajtek was shot dead outside in a hit by the Wołomin gang. An innocent bystander was also killed in the shooting, and the incident sparked a vicious spiral of violence; eleven days later five men with known associations with the Wołomin firm were murdered in reprisal in another Warsaw restaurant. Hala Mirowska A- 3, Pl. Mirowski 1. Across the street l ooms the giant Hala Mirowska, whi ch consists of two narrow bri ck hal l s constructed between 1899 and 1901 on the instruction of Russian mayor Nikolai Bibikov. It functioned as Warsaw’s largest market up until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Though ravaged by fire the walls refused to gi ve way and the buil dings survi ved - check out the bull et scars still all too visi bl e. Serving as a bus depot in the immediate post-war years the structure resumed i ts ori ginal purpose in the 1950s, and today is notabl e for i ts fl ower stalls outsi de, as well as lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out of the backs of their vans. Juliusz Słowacki Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna 20. Continuing down Elektoralna street you might spy a rather nasty looking pinkish stone that stands on the corner of Elektoralna and Al. Jana Pawła II. That’s there to honour Juliusz Słowacki, one of the ‘three bards of Poland,’ who kept quarters at number 20. Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts A-3, ul. Elektoralna 12. Continuing down Elektoralna you’ll be met with the sight of the Mazovia Regional Centre of Culture and Arts on Elektoralna 12 - find classical music concerts organized each summer. That’s a far cry from years before when, as the plaque duti full y informs us, this neo-renaissance building served as ‘Warsaw’s first hospital with standalone pavilions’. Quite what that means is anyone’s guess, but it sounds impressive enough to warrant a mention. Grzegorz Przemyk Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna 5/7. As your walk slowly nears its conclusion you’ll find yoursel f passing a rather gloomy looking school building on Elektoralna 5/7. Of course, this being Warsaw, even this place has a story. Outside you’ll notice a plaque dedicated to the memory of a lad called Grzegorz Przemyk. He was the son of a subversive poetess called Barbara Sadowska who frequently fell afoul of the communist authorities for her covert political and artistic gatherings. Fed up with her anti- authoritarian stance the militia decided to scare her by giving her son a damn good kicking. It went too far, and Przemyk died of internal injuries on May 12, 1983. The subsequent inquiry was seen as a whitewash and the case has since pinballed around the Polish and European law courts for over a decade without a definitive verdict as to what happened. Museum of John Paul II Collection A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1. On the other side of street you’ll notice a figure of the Pope John Paul II peering out from behind the colonnades. Inside this building (formerly the Warsaw Stock Exchange) you’ll find the Museum of John Paul II Collection, which houses an excellent collection of art, from Dalis to Van Goghs, named in honour of the late Pope. And there you have it - Chłodna and Elektoralna, two unsung heroes on the route less travelled. Full of history, a bit of grime and plenty of quirky sights they help paint a fuller picture of the remarkable cit of Warsaw. 12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 13 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com While Warsaw is generally well linked with both the outside world and the rest of Poland, both road and rail networks are undergoing major regeneration work, in part thanks to Warsaw’s recent hosting of the Euro 2012 football championships. Improvement work also extends to the airport, and for the time being travellers more used to the streamlined transport links of the west may find both patience and nerves severely tested. By Car Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has extensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fierce. Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traffic can become a serious problem - particularly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area is generally available on-street where there are standard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best especially if you have driven in western Europe. Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship. The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, i f you’re driving, don’t drink. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be switched on at all times. Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel War- saw Victoria Hotel). By Bus If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you’ll be landing at the main bus station on Al. Jerolozimskie, while budget options like Polskibus drop passengers off at Dworzec Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the Metro Wilanowska stop. Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). There’s a legitimate left-luggage operation, as well as five payphones located in one of the side corridors (though you’ll need to buy phone cards to use them). You can do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport cards from here. HALO taxis stand outside the entrance and will charge you about 20zł to the centre. Refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift. The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn right again - you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number 127, 130, 158 or 517. At night you’ll be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy a 2,60zł ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding. Q Ticket Office open 05:30 - 22:00. PolskiBus ul. Puławska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, s.14), www.polskibus.pl. Note that the Warsaw-Gdansk route leaves from Metro Młociny. Ever y si ngl e st reet i n Warsaw i s cl earl y marked by a number of well-positioned and hi ghl y vi si bl e street signs. It is almost impossible to go more than 100 metres in Warsaw without knowing what street you are on. What’s more, the signs are almost always colour coded: each area of the capital has its own colour. As a visitor you are most likely to see blue signs (for the south and south-central part of the city) and brown (for the northern part of the city centre, and Old Town). But there’s far more hel pful i nformati on on those street signs than the mere street name, however. I f you look closely, the vast majority of also include the numbers of the building in the block to which they are attached. What’s more, there will often be an arrow showing whi ch way the numbers climb. As anyone looking for ul. Marszalkowska 135 (or such like) will know, Warsaw’s central boulevards are incredibly long, and knowing which way to go makes li fe much, much easier. Whoever it was who decided to invest in the street signs (and they have been up for some time now, certainly for more than a decade) we hope that they became rich and famous. Street Signs What’s going on in Poland? Subscribe free to the Warsaw-Modlin Mazovia Airport (Mazowiecki Port Lotniczy Warszawa-Modlin) ul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 346 43 60, www.modlinairport.pl. The brand new Mod- lin airport looks like a shiny tin can in a forest in the middle of nowhere, which is essentially what it is. Fortunately the inside is clean, modern and well-equipped to handle international travelers with plenty of prominent signage. After collecting your luggage from one of two belts and exiting into the main hall you’ll find all the services you could want: ATMs, an information desk, bathrooms, currency exchange (expected any day), vending machines (more legitimate food options are on the way) and car rental companies (though the airport’s newness has these folks operating from makeshift IKEA desks at the moment). Those looking to end up in Warsaw have three main options for transport into the city: grab a cab, take a bus to the capital, or board a shuttle that will take you to Modlin Train Station where you can take a train to your destination. Glob Taxi is currently offering transport from Modlin to the city center for 99zł during the week, and on weekends/after 22:00 it costs an additional 29zl. Bus riders will find Modlin Airport Express bus company offering two routes from the airport: the first deposits travelers outside Warszawa Centralna train station at Al. Jerozolimskie 56C (a guarded parking) for 33zł, while the other drops you at the Młociny metro station for 29zł (tickets can be purchased at the well-marked desk near the airport’s exit, and all buses are equipped with wi-fi). Translud also offers bus service to the center of Warsaw (you’ll be dropped across the street from the Intercontinental on Emili Plater) but it requires an annoying bus change at Modlin Twierdza pętla stop. You pay 1zl for the first portion of the trip and 8zl for the second bus into the city for a total of 9zl. For the schedule visit their website at www.translud.pl. The final option involves a 10-minute shuttle bus ride to the Modlin train station. The green and yellow buses pull up in front of the airport every 20 minutes, and drivers sell 12zl “airport” tickets that cover your fare on the train as well. The brand new modern and air-conditioned Koleje Mazowieckie (“Elf”) trains take 45 minutes to reach Warszawa Centralna (note you need to board the trains that terminate at Frederick Chopin Airport in order to reach Centralna, and this train also stops at Warszawa Wschodnia). The earliest train departure for Centralna is 3:26, while the last is at 00:40 (this information is subject to change beginning October 15). For the latest schedule information visit http://www.mazowieckie.com.pl/en. Note that we’ve heard horror stories about transfers purchased via the airlines - namely no-show buses - so buyer beware. Modlin Train Station ul. Mieszka I 3, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 19 757, www.pkp. pl. Modlin train station has recently been renovated and is as sparklingly new as the airport itself. That said, you won’t find much beyond a waiting room, toilets and a ticket window (open 07:00 - 18:40) so far. Plans for a cafe are in the works, and a newly-opened attached hostel called Zaczarowana Stacyjka is welcoming guests. The shuttle to Modlin Airport picks up and drops off passengers in the front of the station. Q Ticket office open 03:00 - 01:00. Warsaw-Modlin Mazovia Airport 9 8 14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 15 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Car rental Budget ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Air- port), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar. com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Hertz ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at (F-3) ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (Open 09:00 - 15:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.) QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel. (+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Avis ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Avis provide short-term and long-term rentals, chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. There’s over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jero- zolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12a (Włochy). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. Europcar ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. One of the worlds biggest car rental companies offers rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and long term) that will suit all needs (15 different categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson Blue Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked up and dropped off here). There’s also an office at the new Modlin Airport. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Joka D-2, ul. Oko- powa 47, tel. (+48) 609 18 10 20, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website, and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Outside of these hours open on request. Sixt ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of the world’s largest and oldest car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4, InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute ride to the centre costs around 25-40 złoty, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks - they’ll charge three or four times that. Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or get bus number 175. The train station can be found underground by turning right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all the way to the end of the covered section where you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. Routes S2 and S3C will take you Centralna train station, while S3S will take you to Śródmieście station in the city center. Trains are due to run 4 times per hour. Be sure to validate your ticket in the ‘kasowniks’ upon boarding. Bus stops can be found in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CD. Tickets for the bus are also 3.60zł (be sure to validate). Buses run frequently between 05:05 and 23:05 with journey time taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travelers can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes. Warsaw Shuttle, tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www. warsawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport transfer services at competitive prices from 99PLN per run. Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book. Warszawa Lotnisko Chopina Train Station ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport). The new railway station connecting the airport and the city centre can be found by exiting the arrivals hall in either terminal and turning right. The underground station can be accessed by escalators found just after the covered area outside the terminals. See ‘By Plane’ for information on train destinations, ticket prices and frequency. By Train Warsaw’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal giant that sits conveniently in the city’s center and is the main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Polnoc and Praga Poludnie districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city. Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kij- owska 8, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:30. Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D- 4, ul. Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Ticket office open 24 hours. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:30. By Plane Warsaw has been fortunate when it comes to airports: the main hub, Chopin Airport, recently received a modern overhaul while budget carriers like Wizzair and Ryanair now have a place to call their own in the new Modlin Airport northwest of the capital. Both airports offer plenty of options for transportation and make accessing the city an impressively smooth endeavour. Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. Warsaw Frederick Cho- pin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) has recently seen the opening of Zone AB, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older Zone CD (which is currently under major renovation and therefore closed). Collectively they are called Terminal A, and the spacious AB now handles all incoming and outgoing traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses ATMs, exchange offices, tourist info, coffee shops and snack marts. The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but it’s still always better to ri ng ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their services in the arrivals hall at the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror stories. All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state- run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free Ele Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl. Halo Taxi O’K, tel. (+48) 22 196 23, www.halotaxiok.pl. Merc Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, www.6777777.pl. MPT, tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl. Sawa Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44, www.sawataxi.com.pl. Super Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl. Taxis 16 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 17 BASICS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Public Transport www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited, metro system running from north to south. Over 1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English dotted around the city, and English translations are printed on tickets.To save yoursel f the hassle of working out which ticket you need or trying to buy to explain it to the lady in the kiosk. A standard public transport single ticket costs 3.60zł. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 5.60zł. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. Tickets are also available for specific time periods and come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These are priced at 2,60zł, 3,80zł and 5,20zł. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 12 or 19zł if travelling through both zones. Three day tickets cost 24zł, or 38zł for both zones. Children up to the age of 7 years travel for free (have proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare. You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must have exact change. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of l uggage. Pl ai n cl othes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 180zł fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification, or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down. ments; if there is any doubt about the value or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice. Electricity Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave. Health & Emergency In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator. Between June 1st and September 30th English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season. I f you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calami ty we suggest you sort i t out by calling a pri vate clini c, thus avoi ding the hassl e of the notori ousl y l ong queues i n Pol i sh hospi tal s; a l i st of pri vate clini cs can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of whi ch can also be found in the Directory. I f i t’s a financial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, j ust keep an eye out for the Western Uni on l ogo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide. Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Li thuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km). Longest River Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Highest Point The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland. Population (2011) Poland: 38,538,447 Warsaw: 1,708,491 Kraków: 759,137 Łódź: 728,892 Wrocław: 631,235 Poznań: 554,696 Gdańsk: 460,517 Katowice: 310,764 Local time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Facts & Figures Institute of Meteorology and Water Management, www.imgw.pl Climate 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 R a in fa ll (m m ) 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 T e m p e ra tu re (°C ) Rainfall Temperature Climate Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends to hit around February although the long winter of 2009/10 saw a record low temperature in Poland of -32 degrees. Be- low is a graphic showing average temperatures and rainfall. Customs If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending by type; photos ‹6,000zł, other art ‹14,000zł, for example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can then provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission docu- ment) describing the artwork’s price and when and where it was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value, you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months. Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously, problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary docu- Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations we’re happy to say it’s now easy to navigate as well. Centralna is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and modern upgrades that will impress those who’ve been away for a while. From alighting the train you should take one of the two facing escalators (if they’re working) in the centre of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever side you come up on you will be one level below ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once sparse the machines can be spotted at almost every turn. Tourist info can be found at the Service Point in the main hall (08:00-20:00) or across the street at the Palace of Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (Open 08:00-18:00). They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from most of the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Payphones can be found in the underground tunnels with cards available from all the kiosks. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents. Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Złote Tarasy side. On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish rail. Find it on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www. intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:00, the multi-lingual staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you. The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna has improved dramatically with the renovations. Head to Green Coffee, Starbucks or Coffee Heaven for a range of good coffee or hot and cold snacks which are available to takeaway while McDonalds can also be found by following one of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can be reached via the underground passageway and offers a far better place to sit and wait than the station itself, as does the nearby Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Don’t be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in centre by Warsaw’s homeless population - while most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the ticket booths are mono-lingual (try booths number 14 and 16, which now claim English-speaking staff), the tramps in Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues. Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:30. Warszawa Centralna 18 BASICS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 19 BASICS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com halved while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł. Post Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 1) A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 32 01, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs. Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 15) C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www. poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Religion For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy- going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Toilets Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also used in train stations and most public conveniences. 2theloo A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa Cen- tralna Train Station), www.2theloo.com. Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51. Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 22/24. Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘ forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers. On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish. Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Basic pronunciation of consonants ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but one syllable. Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get you started. Civilities cześć (cheshch) hi/bye dzień dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/ afternoon dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night tak (tahk) yes nie (nyeh) no proszę (prosheh) please na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers dziękuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry kocham cię (koham tshe) I love you Mam na imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England Necessities Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets? Czy mówi pan/pani po angielsku? (che moovee pan/panee po angyelskoo?) Do you (male/female) speak English? Nie mówię po polsku (nyeh moovyeh po polskoo) I don’t speak Polish Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh napeesatch) Please write it down Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too paleech?) Can I smoke here? Jedno piwo poproszę (yedno peevo poh- prosheh) One beer please Numbers 1 jeden yehden 2 dwa dva 3 trzy tshi 10 dziesięć jayshench General Airport lotnisko Train station dworzec pkp Bus station dworzec pks Right/left prawo/lewo One ticket to jeden bilet do First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa Language smarts tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaw’s premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest may well find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. Refresh- ment comes in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug sometimes comes with a smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted. The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesn’t respect) jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot. Money Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of September 17, 2012 based on €1 = 4.03zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 zł € 2.26 Snickers 1.29 zł € 0.32 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 zł € 5.70 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 zł € 0.72 0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.23 Loaf of white bread 2.89 zł € 0.72 20 Marlboros 11.20 zł € 2.78 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 6.10 zł € 1.51 Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.60 zł € 0.89 Market values November 1 All Saints’ Day November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) December 25 First Day of Christmas December 26 Second Day of Christmas January 1, 2013 New Year’s Day January 6, 2013 Three Kings March 31, 2013 Easter Sunday April 1 Easter Monday May 1 Labour Day May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) May 19, 2013 Pentecost Sunday May 30, 2013 Corpus Christi August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also Polish Army Day National Holidays PLN US$ Euro Pound 3.07zł = $1 4.03zł = €1 4.97zł = £1 1 zł $0.33 € 0.25 £0.20 2 zł $0.65 € 0.50 £0.40 3 zł $0.98 € 0.74 £0.60 4 zł $1.30 € 0.99 £0.80 5 zł $1.63 € 1.24 £1.01 6 zł $1.95 € 1.49 £1.21 7 zł $2.28 € 1.74 £1.41 8 zł $2.61 € 1.99 £1.61 9 zł $2.93 € 2.23 £1.81 10 zł $3.26 € 2.48 £2.01 20 zł $6.51 € 4.96 £4.02 50 zł $16.29 € 12.41 £10.06 100 zł $32.57 € 24.81 £20.12 150 zł $48.86 € 37.22 £30.18 200 zł $65.15 € 49.63 £40.24 250 zł $81.43 € 62.03 £50.30 1 000 zł $325.73 € 248.14 £201.21 Quick Currency Convertor Internet Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland, with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the network often requires nothing more than a password, which you can request of your favorite bartender or barista with a simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu?” If you don’t have your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options, which are plentiful. Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center), tel. (+48) 22 620 80 32. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucji 5. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 6zł/hour, 10zł/2 hours, 18zł/4 hours. Cyber Cafe ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marri- ott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. Poland’s best internet cafe. Seating sixty people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access, as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame. 20zł per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Law & Order In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation, though is now fast becoming ever more trendy. Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their 20 CULTURE & EVENTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 21 CULTURE & EVENTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Square Theatre (Teatr Kwadrat) B- 3, Al . Niepodległości 141, tel. (+48) 22 826 23 89, www. teatrkwadrat.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:30, Mon 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 19:30. Tickets 30-95zł. Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza Łomnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:00 - 19:00, or until show time. Tickets 20-70zł. The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628 89 98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00, or until show time. Tickets 30-150zł. Opera Stages Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki - Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25-145zł. Philharmonics National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa) B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www. filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 25-90zł. Concerts 02.10 Tuesday PEPSI ROCKS! presents R.U.T.A. B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This concert gathers 4 musi- cians for the great folk project R.U.T.A. Expect to hear old instruments, folk lyrics and universal themes addressed. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 42/30zł. Available at www. ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 09.10 Tuesday PEPSI ROCKS! presents The Boogie Town B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This Warsaw band play energetic music with a certain element of the sentimental. During the concert they will present material from their new album “Grawitacja”. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 15zł. Available before the event. 13.10 Saturday Tori Amos B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Tori Amos visits Poland again, this time promoting her new album which is planned for September release. It should prove a departure as it will be recorded for the venerable Deutsche Grammophon label, one of the oldest in the world, usually dedicated to classical music. So the album, ‘Night Of Hunters’, will be a cycle of songs inspired by classical music from the last 400 years, something of a concept album, the main character being a woman who discovers herself again. Profound, I’m sure we can all agree. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 209-385zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). www.inyourpocket.com Art galleries Klima Bocheńska’s Gallery (Galeria Klimy Bocheńskiej) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48) 601 51 17 13, www.bochenskagallery.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl. Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. The Place of the Zachęta Project C- 3, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 01 36, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Zachęta National Gallery of Art (Zachęta Nar- odowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free. Cinemas Femina A-2, Al. Solidarności 115, tel. (+48) 22 654 45 45, www.heliosnet.pl.QBox office open 09:30 - 21:15. Tickets 16-27zł, Tue, Thu 15zł. IMAX ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550 33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 25-34zł. Kino.Lab G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej), ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.QTickets 12-14zł. Box office open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open 30 minutes before the showtime. Multikino Złote Tarasy A-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60 (Ursynów), Wola Park, ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola), Centrum Targówek, ul. Głębocka 15 (Targówek). Q Box office open from 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 18-32zł. Cultural Centres History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią) C-2, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48) 22 255 05 05, www.dsh. waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts (Mazow- ieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul. Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 586 42 00, www.mckis.waw.pl.QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission free. Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/ CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. Theatre Stages National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teat- ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tickets 40-90zł. Och-Theatre ul. Grójecka 65 (Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 589 52 00, www.ochteatr.com.pl. Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00. Tickets 40-100zł. Sabat Theatre (Teatr Sabat) B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 23 55 ext. 20, www.teatr-sabat.pl.Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tickets 90-240zł. 12.10 Friday - 21.11 Wednesday 28th Warsaw Film Festival www.wff.pl. Things have come a long way since 1985 when this event started life as a small student festival. Nowadays its a full-blown red carpet/posh frock affair with the prizes running to 100,000zł. Numbered amongst the elite group of the 13 most important film festivals in the world, the programme incudes films from all over the world screened in Poland for the first time. The competition section has five categories. There’s the self-explanatory International Competition and the Competition 1-2, for first and second time feature film by an internatinal array of direc- tors. The Free Spirit Competition is an international affair for independent, innovative films. The Documentary Film Competition is for feature-length documentaries and finally the Shorts competition will include works up to 45 minutes in length. All the categories are international and not limited to entries from Europe as before, which should make for some interesting viewing. Movie screenings in English (or with English subtitles) take place at two cinemas: Multikino Złote Tarasy, A-4, ul. Złota 59 and Kinoteka, B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture and Science). Films for the youngest audience will be presented at Multikino. Unfortunately the dialogue will be read by a Polish voice-over. The pre-releases we will have chance to see include: Keep the lights on, The sessions, Samsara, Paradise:Faith and many more. Apart from the competition there will be various movie sections. One of these is “World Today” showing films presenting various facets of the modern world. Q Full schedule available at www.wff.pl. Tickets 18/12zł. Box offices open 30 minutes before first movie projections. 28th Warsaw Film Festival 21.10 Sunday Our Class Theatre On Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. Highly thought of all over Europe, “Our Class” by Tadeusz Słobodzianek is the first Polish drama to win the “ Nike” literary award. Dealing with the growing pains of a group of classmates who dream of becoming a pilot, a doctor or a film star. Come and see how their lives are affected by the events of the 20th century. This performance is in Polish with English supertitles. Q Events start at 19:00. Tickets 50/70zł. Available at Theatre On Wola’s box office (12:00 - 19:00) and before the event. 31.10 Wednesday PROROK ILJA Theatre on Wola, ul, Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. This play, which translates as Elijah the Prophet, was inspired by one Eliasz Klimowicz, who believed, as you do, that he was the biblical messiah and so set up the new capital of the world in Wierszalin. Having predicted the end of the world, as you do, and having seen the prophecy failing to materialise, his followers decided to crucify him to help hasten the end of the world. As you might expect, it’s a story about fanaticism and race hate; a meditation on current world nationalism, comunism and ethnicity. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 60/30zł. Available at theatre box office (Open 12:00 - 19:00, or until show time). Wola Theatre 14.10 Sunday Film Music Concert B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Polish orchestra Sinfonia Luventu conducted by Maciej Sztor will take us on a journey through the best in film soundtracks. Come and hear the theme music to Star Wars, Gladiator, Jaws, Jurassic Park, Superman, Titanic, Forest Gump, Harry Potter, Superman and more. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 49-89zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). 14.10 Sunday The Cranberries H- 4, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.makroconcert.com/pl. A blast from the past if ever there was one. I thought they’d given up years ago, but apparently not. If you’re younger than me, likely, and don’t know, they are Irish rockers lead by the charismatic vocalist Dolores O’Riordan. All the big hits such as Zombie, Linger, Salvation and Dreams will be on the setlist, but there will also be tracks for the new album Roses. 10 years in the making, let’s hope for the fans sake it’s worth the wait. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 150-250zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 22 CULTURE & EVENTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 23 CULTURE & EVENTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com of three’s not bad and she seems to have come out of the experience relatively unscathed. Her music has sometimes sentimental rhythms connected with energetic instrumental sounds. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 450zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). 12.11 Monday Katie Melua B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Georgian-born singer, songwriter and musician Katie Melua requires no introduction to anyone in Poland or, indeed, Europe, where she was the highest selling female artist in 2006 at the ripe age of 22. So absurd is her fame that she had a tulip named after her in 2006. Her and her mates also hold the splendidly inane record for the deepest underwater concert ever performed, at 303m below sea level. This tour is on the back of her 5th album: Secret Symphony. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tick- ets 100-320zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). 13.11 Tuesday Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club feat. Omara Portuondo B-4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. A must for any fan of the music from the film. A lot of the original stars, Gonzales and Ferrer, are no longer with us, but all those performing here played at the self-same club and the atmosphere and music are sure to be electric. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 120-180zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). 19.11 Monday Come Together - The Beatles B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Obviously named after one of the Fab Four’s greatest hits, this concert is organized to mark the 50th anniversary of the group’s first appearance. Polish stars will perform the biggest hits, giving them ‘fresh character’. On stage will be: Afromental, Perfect, Lemon, Ryszard Rynkowski, De Mono, Mech and Żuki. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 90-300zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). 21.11 Wednesday Seal B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1, www. makroconcert.com. Famous all over the world for hits like Kiss From a Rose, Crazy and Amazing, the last time he gave a concert in Warsaw the tickets sold out immediately. For this reason he’ll take in 3 cities on this tour: Gdynia Warsaw and Wrocław, and will be playing all his greatest hits as well as songs from his latest album: Soul 2. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 150-550zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). Warsaw Chamber Opera (Warszawska Opera Kam- eralna) A-1, Al. Solidarności 76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40, www.operakameralna. pl. The Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by Stefan Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and Artistic Direc- tor ever since. The company’s inaugural production, performed on the 4th September 1961, was Pergolesi’s La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986 the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes to the acoustic sound created. The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Clas- sical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary composers. The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and symphonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber Opera established the Research and Documentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research, publ i cati on, per formance and recordi ng of newl y- discovered works by Polish composers. The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long occupied a prominent place in the company’s repertoire. The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in the world to have Mozart’s entire operatic output in its permanent repertoire and this unprecedented achieve- ment has won the Warsaw company-wide international recognition. In addition to this the Warsaw Chamber Opera has also organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The Celebrations to mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre and An Ode to Europe Festival. Q Box office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 20-130zł. 25.10 Thursday - 28.10 Sunday Gioacchino Rossini - The Barber of Seville Warsaw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarności 76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40, www.operakameralna.pl. There’s opera every day here. This one by Gioachino Rossini, with a libretto by Cesare Sterbini, comes in two acts. The libretto is based on Pierre Beaumarchais’s comedy Le Barbier de Séville (1775), originally an ‘opéra comique’, or a mixture of spoken play with music. All performed by a wonderful orchestra, choir and actors. Q Events start at 19:00. Warsaw Chamber Opera 23.10 Tuesday Pepsi Rocks - Afromental B- 4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59. Reggae, hip hop, soul and r’n’b just about sums up what this Olsztyn band do. Although they released their first album in 2007, their career has just taken off thanks to their latest hit: ‘Pray 4 love’ It appears on the soundtrack to the new Polish movie Kochaj i Tańcz (Love and Dance!) which has been a hit in the cinemas across the nation. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 45/32zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 28.10 Sunday Steve Vai F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, www.go-ahead.pl. A great composer, music producer and all-round guitar hero, Vai started to learn how to play at the age of 12 from Joe Satriani and when he was 18 he started his career with the mighty Frank Zappa, not bad company to be keeping to be sure. At the moment he has over 60 albums to his name and August sees the release of his new album: “The story of light” - come and check out the new material as they say. QTime was undecided at the moment. Tickets 120-150zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 05.11 Monday Gotye Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.go-ahead.pl. The one and only Gotye come to Poland for the first time. We all know his song “Somebody that I used to know” which topped the chart around the world. The video was seen a record 4 million times after 3 weeks on-line and at the moment has had a whopping 218 million hits. From Australia, with Belgian roots, he won’t be a one-hit wonder, but his forthcoming album “Making Mirrors” has received rave reviews. Q Time and ticket prices were undecided at the moment. Please check our website for updates. 09.11 Friday Tommy Emmanuel B-3, Palladium, ul. Złota 9, www.palladium.art.pl. This artist from Australia has been called one of the best guitarists on the scene today. In the 70s and 80s he was a member of the decidedly dodgy sounding band Dragon and it was here that he perfected his mastery of finger style, a technique of playing the guitar which is similar to playing piano. A Grammy award winner, he has cooperated with such stars as Stevie Wonder, Michael Bolton and Eric Clapton. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 150/120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). 09.11 Friday Twin Shadow D-4, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99a, www.klubproxima. pl. The American star of alternative pop plays his first club gig in Poland. Twin Shadow is a nickname of George Lewis Jr, he shot to fame on the back of songs like Castles in the Snow and Shooting Holes. His mix of synth and indie pop went down very well at last year’s Off Festival. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110/89zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 11.11 Sunday Diana Krall B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. This Canadian jazz singer and pianist, wife of Elvis Costello if you’re interested in domestic matters, has won 5 Grammies and performed with Ray Charles, Tony Bennett and, er, Celine Dion - two out E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S W W W . F A B R Y K A Z E S P O L O W . P L 22.11 Thursday Gossip H-4, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.go-ahead.pl. Hailing from the USA, Gossip are no strangers to Poland and have played at Gdynia’s Open’er Festival. This time they are coming to promote their latest long player “A Joyful Noise”, an album released after cooperation with Brian Higgins of Pet Shop Boys and Kylie Minogue producer fame. Their mixture of funk, rock, gospel and soul with a charismatic singer is sure to get you on your feet. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120/110zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). 24 CULTURE & EVENTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 25 CULTURE & EVENTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Exhibitions 01.03 Thursday - 31.10 Wednesday Great Football Exhibition B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1. With Euro 2012 getting closer there’s more and more football related events. This exhibition features a unique collection of boots, t-shirts, pennants and more. Over 100 shirts once worn by the likes of Zinedine Zidane, Luis Figo, Francisco Gento and others alongside Polish memorabilia and family mementos from Jerzy Englert and the great 70s trainer Kazimierz Górski. For the younger fans there’s multimedia stations with xbox games and so on; jumpers for goal posts and all that. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/10zł. 08.09 Saturday - 25.11 Sunday Agnieszka Polska - AURORITE G-4, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl. This artist works with photography, animation, video and collages and is interested in the nature of the memory and how, due to its imperfections, it comes close to being creative. Agnieszka Polska’s animations are based on the idea of bringing archival materials, such as old photos, to life. She uses pre-war newspapers, books, black and white photography from the 1960s, 1970s, including the documentation of works of art, as her source materials. The aesthetic of the materials dictates the atmosphere of her works, as if rooted in utopian, slightly idealised visions of the future. The artist shows how misconceptions resulting from reading about what has been archived, and thus deprived of its original context, can lead to a certain new quality. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. 25.10 Thursday - 30.10 Tuesday 10th Warsaw Jewish Film Festival B-4, Kinoteka, Pl. Defilad 1, www.wjff.pl. This year’s jubilee edition is devoted to the great Ameri can directing team of Joel and Ethan Coen. The Honor- ary David Camera 2012 is awarded to the Coen Brothers for their courage and i nsi ght i n showi ng issues related to Jewishness as well as their unique contribution to world cinematography. The 10th edition, like all those before, will be an opportunity to discover more about Jewish contemporary cinema and the wide range of subjects it deals with. The programme includes screenings of such movies as: “The Footnote” − a nominee for this years’s Oscars as well as last year’s Palme d’Or at Cannes. Meanwhile “The Flood” won the Crystal Bear Award at Berlinale 2011 and “Sharqiya” was a nominee for the Panorama Audience Award at Berlinale 2012. “This Must Be The Place” was also in competition at Cannes 2011 and then there’s the newest German production with the Polish superstar Mateusz Damiecki “Remembrance”. Other attractions include a meeting with Alex Claude, the sound designer on two outstanding Festival movies “The Footnote” and “Sharqiya”. There’s also the chance to meet Mateusz Damiecki, who will be talking about “Remembrance”. Finally there will be a session with the amazing Ryszard Ronczewski, the main actor from the movie “Kaddish for a friend”. Q Full schedule available at www.wj ff.pl. 10th Jewish Film Festival 08.09 Saturday - 18.11 Sunday Freedom Club G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl. “To paint ever ythi ng! ” Thi s never sated desi re dri ves Radek Szlaga’s artisti c work. A painter of numerous topi cs, i t mi ght be better to say that his art is a kal ei doscope of pi eces whi ch have turned into a panorama of the worl d in chaos. Fl ooded wi th images, he responds wi th his own paintings. He processes, distorts and mocks the visual relentlessl y. In Szlaga’s works the baroque abundance of imaging fi ghts for something better against primi ti vism and aggressi ve expression. Szlaga does not l ose hope that painting can still be a language used to descri be the worl d, but at the same time he remains j ust a step away from iconoclasm, going outside the picture frames, negating and finall y compromising the act of painting. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Cl osed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. Festivals 01.05 Tuesday - 30.11 Friday Mazovia in the Crown - Ode to Joy Event takes place in various location. Check description for more info., www.mckis.waw.pl. Mazovia i n the Crown is a seri es of concerts set i n the fi nest medi eval, Renaissance, and Baroque archi tecture that the regi on has to of fer. Throughout the cycl e choi rs, orchestras, chamber bands and sol oists will per form. Wi th events organised away from the capi tal the ai m is to wi den access to hi gh and the host ci ti es include Błonie, Ciechanów, Płońsk and Sierpc. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Admission free. Full schedule available at www. mckis.waw.pl. 12.10 Friday - 13.10 Saturday Free Form Festival Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 (Praga), tel. (+48) 22 827 00 77, www.freeformfestival.pl. Thi s festi val presents all that’s new on the independent music scene as well as delving into the esoteric business of the art of city space. This year for the first time we can enjoy the Red Bull Music Academy with Ewan Pearson, XXXY and Doc Daneeka performing as well as a DJ set from D Schlach- thofbronx. The programme is packed with concerts, live acts, DJ sets, audiovisual shows, video art and design shows. Other artists invited are: Digitalism Live Kitsune, The Bloody Beetroots, Little Boots, Delphic, A.G. Trio and more. Q Tickets 110-150zł. Pass 160-220zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 09.11 Friday - 11.11 Sunday 8th Warsaw Salsa Festival www.salsafestival.pl. Thi s wi l l be the 8th ti me out for a festi val wi th hot rhythms presented by the best dancers i n the worl d. For three days Warsaw wi l l turn i nto the capi tal of l ati no rhythms. There wi l l be 4 parti es ti l l morni ng, three dance fl oors wth al l the best i nstructors. You can i mprove or l earn dance styl es such as cha cha, sal sa, mambo and zouka; there wi l l be over 80 hours of workshops for both amateurs and professi onal s. The dance i nstructors i nvi ted thi s year are Eddi e Torres and Yamul ee and each morni ng wi l l begi n wi th a Zumba marathon to wake everybody up. I’m tol d ‘Zumba’ means move and have fun, great fun. Q Ti ckets 20-70zł. Festi val pass 170-445zł. Regi strati on form at www.sal safesti val.pl. 24.11 Saturday Papa Roach Progresja, ul. Kaliskiego 15a. Straight from the heat of Cali fornia, Papa Roach come with their new album “The connection” tucked proudly under their arms. It should do well, their previous LPs have sold over 15 mln copies. On the go for 20 years, we are sure to hear hits like Last resort and She loves me not. Support will be provided by NOKO. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Ti ckets 100zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 29.11 Thursday Marillion F- 5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, www.goodmusic. com.pl. First appearing in 1979, Marillion were originall y characterised by the distinct singing of their l eader, the frankl y rather daft, Fish. I t l ooked li ke i t was all over when he l eft i n 1988 after 4 al bums. However Steve Hogarth was brought i n to pi ck up the mi ke and thi s year they will rel ease their 17th al bum, so the lucky fans can expect some new material at the gi g. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Ti ckets 120/100zł. Availabl e at www. ti cketpro.pl and Stodoła box of fi ce (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00). Follow POLANDIYP on 26 CULTURE & EVENTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Misc. Events 01.10 Monday Chippendales - The Ultimate Girls Night Out Show B-4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Beefcake!!! The story of the Chippendales goes back to 1978 when 12 ‘incredibly handsome’ guys from Los Angeles formed the first group. Not looking back since in their various incarnations the band have given over 40,000 shows in 150 countries. Apparently it’s not about nudity, squadron of porkers at 6 o’clock, but about making women’s dreams come true. All in the best possible taste. Q Event starts at 19:30. Tickets 90-160zł. Available at www. ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00). Theatre 04.11 Sunday „TANGO PASIÓN“ - De Buenos Aires Tango Show B-4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. This show has been a regular feature on Broadway since 1993 and now they are coming to Poland. Tango Pasion is performed by a group of dancers chosen from the cream of Argentinian dance schools and the aim, as the name suggests, is to depict a number of passionate love stories. That said, when I think of Tango, I can’t get away from Jack Lemmon in ‘Some Like it Hot’. “Who’s the lucky girl?” asks Tony Curtis. “I am,” comes the reply. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-250zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). 07.11 Wednesday - 08.11 Thursday Stomp B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. After their huge success on Broadway as well as some stirling work at the Olympic closing ceremony, Stomp are here for three unmissable performances in Warsaw. Using everything from Zippo lighters to rubbish bins to make music, they are known for their expression and improvisation as well as the splendid racket they kick up. Recommended. Q Events start at 19:00 on 7th November, at 17:00, 20:30 on 8th November. Tickets 90-270zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). Warsaw November 28 th Sala Kongresowa Whitney.Royalart.com.pl W ne o l co l Tickets: Ebilet, Eventim, Ticketportal, Ticketpro, Empik Art Color Ballet Modern Symphony Orchestra Soul City Gospel Choir UJK Music Show in Memory of 28.11 Wednesday Whitney Houston Symphonically B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 536 408 797, www.whitney.royalart.com.pl. This event has been organised to commemorate the late lamented diva. It should be a special night for fans uniquely combining the power of the symphony orchestra, the energy of a gospel choir, the choreography of ballet group and a light show. Over 100 artists will perform all the most famous numbers. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-300zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00). Whitney Houston 28 WHERE TO STAY Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 29 WHERE TO STAY October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Cream of the crop Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Situated right on the doorstep of Łazienki Park, the Hyatt not only has all the five star trimmings, but the biggest hotel swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards the rooms are enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye cream colours and huge showerheads designed for that mock rain experience. Q250 rooms (90 singles, 132 doubles, 10 suites, 2 Diplomatic Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6U FLGKDCwW hhhhh InterContinental A- 4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beauti ful three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterCon- tinental is nothing short of an architectural marvel. Ac- commodation fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour combinations and including every facility one would expect. Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre and swimming pool on the 43rd floor, and huge residential suites for long-term guests. Q414 rooms (336 si ngl es, 336 doubl es, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKD CwW hhhhh Le Mér i di en Br i stol C- 2, ul . Kr akowski e Przedmieście 42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.pl. Breathe i n history by booki ng a night in Warsaw’s most famous hotel. The plaque in the marble clad lobby lists dozens of stars and royalty who have chosen to lodge here, and to countdown the facilities on offer would require an hour of your time. Art nouveau is the theme and rooms feature the classy ambiance of yesteryear. But for all the five star perks and trimmings our favourite touch is the courtyard garden; an oasis of luxury perfect for evening drinks. The hotel’s floor by floor renovations are still in progress but fortunatel y won’ t affect guests. Q206 rooms (168 singles, 168 doubles, 37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Sui te). PTJHA R6UFGKDCW hhhhh Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul. Kościelna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison. com/leregina. Rated by many as the most stylish hotel in Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance and comes set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades in Warsaw’s New Town area. No expense has been spared in creating this luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble mocha used for flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in many of the rooms. A monastic quiet prevails throughout this courtyard centred hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing combo of whites, creams and caramel colours. Q61 rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 1 Penthouse, 1 Le Regina Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). PTJHARUFGKDCW hhhhh Marriott B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.pl. A hotel with real pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from Warsaw’s classiest doorman outside to award winning restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to a long line of visiting nabobs, including President Obama. An extensive program of renovation has recently seen all the rooms upgraded and the beds are so comfortable you may not wish to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo in the bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles and views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms (423 singles, 423 doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 2 Vice Presidential Suite , 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/ hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime styles. All come with dataports, free Wi-fi, three telephone lines, safes and pay-TV, and there’s also state-of-the-art conference, dining and fitness facilities. Q311 rooms (284 singles, 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apart- ment). PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhhh Rialto F- 4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh inside Poland’s original boutique hotel, a stunning venue decorated exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings have been plucked from the auction houses and antique stores of Europe, and all the individually designed rooms come with Italian linen, DVD players and a host of luxurious extras. I f it’s available then book into lucky number 13, a colonial pearl which Hercule Poirot would have loved. He would have thought highly of the excellent in-house restaurant, too, which has a special menu that offers the cuisine of pre-war Warsaw for added authenticity. Q44 rooms (6 singles, 27 doubles, 11 apartments). PTHARUF GKDW hhhhh Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C- 4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. It’s all a bit Dynasty in the Warsaw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate extras, as well as a selection of some of Warsaw’s best eateries on the ground floor. Rooms are of generous size, though to really feel like king consider upgrading to executive, where perks include access to a great lounge featuring complimentary snacks and beverages. Q350 rooms (326 singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, 5 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh Sofitel Warsaw Victoria B-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel. (+48) 22 657 80 11, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com. For years the Sofitel was in very real danger of stagnation. Now this revamped concrete block finds itself at the heart of the action with revitalised Krakowskie Przedmieście on one side, and Saski Park on the other. And, right in front, Sir Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building, complete with its glass cased offices and designer boutiques. So what of the Sofitel itself? Rooms are dapper enough, fully equipped to deal with the steep demands of the five star traveller. Ask for a business class room if you require an additional study with fax and copy facilities. Q343 rooms (160 singles, 170 doubles, 52 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PO THAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh The Westin Warsaw Hotel A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl/en. A top bracket sanctuary situated amid the skyscrapers of Warsaw’s business district. The lobby buzzes at all hours and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in warms tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars that will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the executive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features gourmet finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms (345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 suites, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw i s a busi - ness ci ty fi rst and foremost, and oc- cupancy rates reflect that. Prices dip the moment the cl ock hits Friday, 5pm, and you’ll find some great discounts available i f you hunt around online. A good place to start is at poland. i nyourpocket. com where our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us later). The Warsaw hotel market reflects the city’s image as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and comes well equipped with five star offerings as well as a new breed of options for thri fty travellers. Warsaw now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the Concierge box. Here is a list of recommendations depending on what you are looking for. Local Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where rooms custom designed by local artists offer a uniquely modern angle to the Old Town setting. For something more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a restored art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why not see what it’s like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews, class apartments in an A1 location. Cheap Camera Hostel is ideal if you’re looking to meet up with random travelers from around the globe, while newcomer Moon Hostel is a little more upscale (flatscreens in the rooms) and a little less backpackeresque. If you prefer to party with the student set Fest Hostel is located right in the core of the University district. Lads I f you’re touring in numbers then go for a name brand, all of which tend to drop their rates at weekends. I f you want to be central and close to the action then try The Golden Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile. I f quick access to the airport is an essential requirement then the new Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport has you covered. Couples MaMaison Le Regina is the perfect honeymoon experience, and right in the middle of romantic new town. Alternatively, request the rose room at the Sleepwell Apartments and find floor-to-ceiling flowers accenting your bed. Splurge The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent years and while we can vouch for all the major hotels, it might be worth taking a look at the price comparison service hotelcalculator on the hotel pages of poland. inyourpocket.com. Lodgings at a glance Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a plane carrying President Lech Kaczyński, his wife and ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as it came into land, before turning upside down and plung- ing to the ground. The president and his entourage had been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katyń Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers. For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only recently had steps been taken to mend bridges. Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been thought to have been the president himself – a man who once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judge- ment and land in war torn Tbilisi – though black box evidence now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage. While Kaczyński had been widely forecast to lose heavily in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyński’s unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyński were returned, and for the next week the streets outside the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as people converged to lay flowers and light candles – on April 17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Piłsudski Square to listen to a state service. But even in death Kaczyński remained a divisive and controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many protesting the decision with the slogan ‘Warsaw for Presidents, Kraków for Kings’. Held on April 18th 2010 the funeral was marked with a service in Kraków’s St Mary’s Cathedral, before the coffins were transported with military escort to the crypt of Wawel. Since then however President Kaczynski’s twin brother and his opposition party have openly accused the current government of negligence and relations between Poland and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame. Disaster at Smolensk www.prezydent.pl 30 WHERE TO STAY Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 31 WHERE TO STAY October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Mid-range Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.com. Quiet and cobbled, Smolna is not a typical city centre street, and neither is this your typical set of apartments. Apartments suit all budgets, though the Queen - with a large living space - is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation has been designed to evoke a real atmosphere of home-away-from- home and features lots of flowers, natural wood and personal touches courtesy of Jarek, your host. Q21 rooms (3 singles, 16 doubles, 2 apartments). THAGW Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72 00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Campa- nile accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine bathrooms. High standards and a central location. Q194 rooms (194 singles, 194 doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh Castle Inn B-2, ul. Świętojańska 2 (entrance from Pl. Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn. pl. When students grow up, grow rich and can no longer stand hostels, they stay in places like this. A dream of a hotel at the centre of Old Town you can expect big rooms, all with individual decor - some classy, some kitsch, all good fun - and - wait for it - velvet doors. Best of all though are the rooms which have the massive (and we mean massive) bathrooms. We dare you to find bigger bathrooms than those on offer here in any other hotel in Warsaw. Much like their clientele the owners of this place have also graduated up from hostels (they run the Oki-Doki). If this is what becomes of hostels when they grow up, bring it on. Q22 rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 8 apartments). TYHA6GW Chmielna Guest House C-4, ul. Chmielna 13, tel. (+48) 22 828 12 82, www.chmielnabb.pl. Budget priced boutique accommodation courtesy of the brains behind the New World Hostel. There’s seven rooms to choose from, including London (red, vibrating wall), San Francisco (black/white, modern metropolitan) and Hoi An (hardwood and a curtained bed). It’s a great concept for those too old for hostels but too young for Hilton, and the deal here includes a cool looking living room with a chic style and flatscreen plasma. Find the reception 100m away in the New World St. Hostel at ul. Nowy Świat 27 (C-3). Q7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 1 triple). AGW Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcen- tre.com. A very favourable price to quality trade-off here, with plenty of room, heavenly beds and a warm welcome all part of the deal. However, our favourite detail is the breakfast, clearly one of the best in the city. What a spread! A hotel with big ideas that is rightfully putting its sights on getting a fourth star very soon. Q144 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles). PTHA6UFGKDW hhh Gromada - Dom Chłopa B-3, Pl. Powstańców Warsza- wy 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 99 00, www.domchlopa.pl. It’s almost a surprise to find such a good deal in the city centre. As the coaches parked outside testify, Gromada is a hit with package tours and conferences. First sight is an over-waxed marble lobby, and a curvy stairwell spirits guests to modern, sunny rooms. The older portion of the hotel offers economy class accommodation that are not quite as sleek, but the basic rooms provide everything a weary travel requires. New amenities include a billiard room, fitness center and sauna, not to mention a beauty salon that offers a 10 percent discount to guests. Q320 rooms (301 singles, 265 doubles, 17 apartments). POTHAR6UFLGKW hhh Upmarket Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www. hiltonwarsaw.pl. Although only open since 2007 the Hilton already feels like an established big shot on Warsaw’s four star circuit. And it can’t be denied, there’s a hefty dose of wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But it’s not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous 25 metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and private check in. As for the rooms, they’re just what you’d expect from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes with a stylish modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen televisions. Particularly impressive are the corner suites, complete with floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw. Q314 rooms (303 singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). POTHAR6UFLGK DCW hhhh Holiday Inn Warszawa A- 4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www.holidayinn.com/warsawpo- land. A trademark Holiday Inn with a location hemmed in by the Palace of Culture and Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Find immaculate facilities throughout, and a standard just typical of the HI crest. It might look small and squat compared to its neighbours but this hotel is deceptively large, with a quick tour revealing designer boutiques, fitness facilities and a beauty parlour. Q336 rooms (54 singles, 272 doubles, 10 apartments). PTHA6UFL GKDW hhhh Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels. com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject of a thorough overhaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location and size, meaning it’s not rare to find it overrun with tour groups and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms offering all the four star extras, including “Executive” rooms (with iPod docking stations) and even studio and apartment options. Q733 rooms (50 singles, 661 doubles, 12 suites, 10 apartments). PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all, from a victory banquet hosted by Eisenhower to the Miss World girls back in 2006. The exterior has benefited from a full facelift, and now dazzles amid its soot-clad neighbours. Slidey doors open onto a grand marble lobby, while upstairs amply portioned rooms reveal modern fittings among ‘made-to-look-old’ furniture. New 32” and 40” LED TVs and hotel-wide Wi-Fi extend the modern upgrades. Pride of place goes to the apartment, whose defining feature is a raised lounge area with an oval-shaped window. Q206 rooms (198 singles, 198 doubles, 7 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhh Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel E-3, Pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/sobieski- warsaw. The façade has a garish rainbow-colored paint job, but fortunately this newest addition to the Radisson Blu chain has a much more subtle interior featuring a marble lobby, big rooms and fitness facilities. Rooms are currently undergoing renovations that will be completed this fall and won’t disturb guests. And we applaud any changes that mean this hotel isn’t going to charge guests for Internet use anymore. Q435 rooms (60 singles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presi- dential Suite). PTHAR6UFGKDw hhhh Dear Readers, welcome to the beautiful capital of Poland - Warsaw. Autumn time is coming to our town. Days will become shorter and colder but hopefully if you are visiting Warsaw, at least during October, you will have a chance to see and feel the amazing Polish “golden” autumn. It is still a good time to take a walk around Warsaw’s parks and Old Town surrounded by colourful leaves feeling the last rays of the sun. The end of summer is also a period, which delivers a few events from different disciplines worth your attention. Here, in Warsaw we still remember the Euro 2012 tour- nament and its incredible atmosphere, which you could feel throughout the whole city and country. Football fans are already thinking about the next great FIFA World Cup in Rio de Janeiro in 2014 and national teams in Europe have already started qualification for it. The next occasion to see one of the games at the Na- tional Stadium in Warsaw will be on the 16th October. The game between the Polish and English teams starts at 21:00 and both teams will want to win their last game before the winter break. If you are not fond of football, than an alternative would be the performance of the World’s Greatest Pink Floyd Show by the Brit Floyd. The band will play the greatest hits of Pink Floyd selected by the Pink Floyd band themselves. This show will take place as well on the 16th October at the Torwar Hall. If you are a classical music fan you can be sure that Warsaw, which is also the cultural capital of Poland, has something to offer. You can choose between piano recitals and symphony orchestra concerts in the Warsaw Philharmonic and great events in The National Theatre of Opera and Ballet, such as the famous ballet “Sleeping Beauty” by Pyotr Tchaikovski. At the end of October people in Poland begin to prepare for two important public holidays for us. The first of them is All Saints Day on the 1st November. This particular day is exceptional as people go to the cemeteries, to the graves of their family members, friends or other people dear to them to light candles and place flowers. If you are here during this time make sure you visit one of the largest cemeteries in Warsaw – Powązki, where you will feel this unique atmosphere. The second is the 11th November, which is Polish Inde- pendence Day. It could be cold and even maybe snowing but you will still see the white and red national colours everywhere and whole families going to see great military parade and changing of the guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. In case the weather does not allow you to spend too much time outdoors, you will find many indoor attractions, which are worth seeing such as the National Museum or Warsaw Uprising Museum. Then in the evening you can relax , having a drink in one of the Warsaw pubs or bars or to discover the city’s nightlife in one of its clubs. Enjoy your stay in Warsaw, I am sure each of you will find something interesting to do. If you are looking for ideas on what to do and see please do not hesitate to ask your concierge who will be more than happy to help you. Sebastian Brodowski Concierge & Guest Services Manager InterContinental Warszawa Ask your Concierge As far as assignments go, it doesn’t get much bolder than this one: get rounded up and taken to Auschwitz on purpose and report back what i s happeni ng i nsi de. Yes, the camp most people were trying to avoid was exactly where Poland’s Witold Pilecki volunteered to go in order to find out firsthand just what the Nazis were up to. Who was this courageous fellow? Pilecki was an officer in the Polish mili tary wi th a long and impressive career that began with service during World War I and continued in the famed Battle of Warsaw (also known as the Miracle at the Vistula) that helped earn Polish independence in 1920. His efforts landed him two Krzyz Waleczynch (Cross of Valour) and in the post-war years the silver Cross of Merit for his work in the community. With the outbreak of World War II Pilecki was once again mobilised, but the country’s swift defeat at the hands of the Germans led Pilecki to found the Taina Armia Polska (Secret Polish Army), one of the first resistance organizations. Pilecki’s idea to infiltrate Auschwitz took root while working with TAP, and in 1940 he deliberately walked into a street roundup in Warsaw and became inmate #4859 (under the alias Tomasz Serafiński) at Auschwitz. Inside he wasted no time: in addition to organizing the underground Zwiazek Organizacji Woskowej (Union of Military Organizations) to assist inmates with extra food and clothing and provide news from the outside Pilecki also secretly built a radio to relay messages to his contacts. It was these dispatches – detailing the state of the camps, number of deaths and conditions of the inmates – that were forwarded to the Polish government in exile in London and onward to the Western allies. In April 1943 Pilecki escaped from Auschwitz, hoping to convince the Home Army to undertake a rescue mission at the camp. Unfortunately Pilecki’s detailed reports on the millions being killed at Auschwitz were largely considered un- believable, and the British declined to assist the Home Army in a rescue mission. Pilecki went on to serve during the Warsaw Uprising, and following the end of the war he essentially became a spy for the exiled government. It was in this role that Pilecki was arrested in 1947 by the Ministry of Public Security, tortured, and put on trial under trumped-up charges (future Polish prime minister and fellow Auschwitz inmate Jozef Cyrankiewicz testified against Pilecki). Unsurprisingly Pilecki was found guilty and swi ftly executed by the communists on May 25, 1948 at Mokotow Prison. Interest in Pilecki’s heroic story was stirred last summer when Polish authorities began digging up a mass grave on the edge of Warsaw’s Powazki Military Cemetery in the hope of identifying his remains and subsequently honouring the man. So far more than 100 skeletons have been exhumed from the pit, which is ironically located not far from the tombs of the very judges and prosecutors who condemned Pilecki to death. Witold Pilecki 32 WHERE TO STAY Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 33 WHERE TO STAY October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Hetman G-1, ul. Kłopotowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 22 511 98 00, www.hotelhetman.pl. This is three-star accommodation at its finest. The large rooms come with internet access, hairdryers, cable TV and neutral beige colour schemes. On the Praga side of the river. Q68 rooms (68 singles, 55 doubles). TYHAR6ULGKW hhh Ibis Ostrobramska ul. Ostrobramska 36 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 515 78 00, www.accorhotels. com. Practical, fully functional rooms right in line with the standard you expect from the Ibis chain. Q137 rooms (137 singles, 137 doubles). PTHA6ULGKW hh Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel. (+48) 22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More of the same from Ibis: international standards at competitive prices. Best of all, its location ten minutes from the Old Town means that your immediate choice is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash in the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles, 333 doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarności 165, tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles, 189 doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh Maria D-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 71, tel. (+48) 22 838 40 62, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering moderate prices and prim rooms featuring random floral designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles, 16 doubles, 3 apartments). PTA6KW hh MDM F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the top of Marszałkowska most rooms in the MDM feature grandstand views of Warsaw’s finest piece of socialist realism: pl. Kon- stytucji. Accommodation comes with plum coloured carpets and predictable three star comfort. Q134 rooms (21 singles, 108 doubles, 5 suites). THA6UGKW hhh Metropol F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. (+48) 22 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Renovations have phased out the Cold War era rooms, replacing them with decent enough digs in the very heart of Warsaw. True, you’ll still be looking enviously at those staying in the Novotel opposite, but this is no longer the hall of horror of yesteryear. Q191 rooms (180 singles, 180 doubles, 11 suites). PTAR6UGKW hhh Reytan G-5, ul. Rejtana 6, tel. (+48) 22 201 64 00, www.reytan.pl. Found down a quiet side street the Rey- tan delivers a high three star standard. Crisp bed sheets, bright colours and new furniture. Q86 rooms (86 singles, 74 doubles, 2 suites). PTHA6ULGKW hhh Sleepwell Apartments C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 62, tel. (+48) 600 30 07 49, www.sleepwell-warsaw.pl. Sitting above Nowy Świat, Warsaw’s swankiest tourist stroll, Sleepwell has one of the best locations in the city; in one direction are the clubs of Foksal street, and in the other the stunning Old Town. Inside the nine rooms all have home theatres, mini-fridges and giant LCD televisions, but each one is decorated in a unique and sometimes jarring style. One room features a murderous manga assassin painted on the wall, one room has a glittery carpet, and another has large fake roses romantically climbing the ceiling. Reception is in a separate building so guests must call ahead for initial access, and no common space means breakfast is not included (though a discount is available at Café Vincent downstairs). Q9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles). A6GW Budget BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www. bwfelix.pl. Located over on the east side of the river 6km from the city centre, the Best Western falls comfortably into the Polish business/conference class of hotels. Having received a complete makeover and refurb, what you now have is effectively a very comfortable, brand new hotel at extremely competitive prices. Handy if you’re planning on spending your time in the fashionable adjacent Praga district. Q227 rooms (96 singles, 120 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites). TYHAR6ULGKW hhh BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos H-7, ul. Mangalia 3a, tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www.bwportos.pl. What was once a Start Hotel has been overhauled by Best Western, transforming this concrete block from outside (a stark new paint job that makes the building stand out next to its grubbier neighbours) to inside (that new carpet smell!). The chain seems to be angling for business travellers, and visitors will enjoy new LCD televisions, laptop computer rests and even slippers. We’re baffled as to why this makeover only includes Wi-Fi on select floors, but cosmetically it’s impressive. An ideal location for travelers looking for quick access to the Warsaw Trade Fair & Congress Center. Q230 rooms (230 singles, 156 doubles, 8 suites). TYHA R6ULGKW hhh Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagórna 1, tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com. A super addition to Warsaw’s budget bracket, this hotel is in the midst of a brand shi ft so you may find yoursel f checking into an Etap or, i f the transition is complete, an Ibis hotel. Either way it’s a winning formula here: bright, modern rooms inside a sparkling white building in the quiet Powiśle district. The rooms come with a simple design but your cash gets you all the facilities the modern traveller requires: wireless net access, en-suite bathrooms and cable television. Q176 rooms (176 singles, 176 doubles, 14 triples). PA6UGW h Noclegi Okęcie Al. Krakowska 236 (Włochy), tel. (+48) 696 07 00 40, www.noclegiokecie.pl. Magnolia, one of Noclegi Okęcie’s three accommodations coupled near the airport (the neighbouring two buildings, Pod Lipami and U Jakuba are set up hostel-style) has newly remodelled single and double en-suite modern rooms that will delight budget travelers: free Wi-fi, an outdoor space for lounging, immaculate cleanliness and enough distance from the road to make sleeping a breeze. Breakfast isn’t included, but the hotel’s nearby restaurant Totu (Al. Krakowska 236) has reasonably priced Polish fare. Q46 rooms (25 singles, 26 doubles, 8 triples, 7 quads). PAR6GKW Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 624 08 00, www.premiereclasse.com. One of the best budget options in the city, and as such often fully booked. Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private bathrooms and television, and the location is just a tram stop from the train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles, 126 doubles). TA6UGXW h Start Hotel Aramis H-7, ul. Mangalia 3b, tel. (+48) 22 207 80 00, www.hotelaramis.pl. Slightly forbidding at first glance this one star hotel offers base comfort at even lower prices. Do go the extra yard and shell out on a renovated room - perks are minimal but the rooms are clean and come with television and internet access. Q232 rooms (232 singles, 92 doubles, 139 triples). TYHAR6ULGK h Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00, www. courtyardwarsawairport.com. In many senses this place, almost directly opposite the airline check-in desks, is an exten- sion of Warsaw Airport. People use the superb lobby bar as a departure lounge, and for those with an early morning start the big, comfortable rooms here are as good a place as any to wait for a flight. Fear not the noise of the planes: we slept like a baby (as did our baby) even though our room had a direct view of the runway. Q236 rooms (113 singles, 121 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHARUFGKW hhhh Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 31 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00, www.hiex- press.com/hotels/us/en/warsaw/wawwa/hotelde- tail. Those wanting easy access to the airport just short of sleeping on the runway will find the brand new Holiday Inn Express to fit the bill perfectly. Just three minutes away and accessible via a convenient hotel shuttle, the Holiday Inn promises amenities that are miss-your-flight worthy: wifi and flatscreens in every room, a complimentary breakfast buffet and a business corner for last-minute work needs. Q124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles). PTHAUGW Novotel Warszawa Airport D-7, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1, tel. (+48) 22 575 60 00, www.accorhotels.com. Comfortably inside the mid-range bracket, Novotel is a canny choice for those who expect professional standards at competitive prices. Splashy colours, dataports and shining bathrooms lend a comfortable, practical tone to the rooms. Q281 rooms (280 singles, 280 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHA6UGKW hhh Airport Hotels Born in Lodz in 1946, Daniel Libeskind has gone on to become one of the world’s best known architects, with projects like the Imperial War Museum in Manchester and the Jewish Museum in Berlin to his credit. To many though he will be familiar as the man who originally won the contract to create the master plan for the World Trade Center site following the 9/11 attacks. Wrangles with other architects and developers saw him eventuall y squeezed from that proj ect, though closer to (his original) home Libeskind found himself in charge of the design of Zlota 44, a landmark 192 metre skyscraper perched between the InterContinental and the Palace of Culture. Looking not unlike a bendy Arab cutlass the daring glass tower was the envisioned home of 251 luxury apartments (including a number custom designed by Libeskind himself), a 25 metre stainless steel swimming pool and a top floor wooden sundeck. And in spite of an average price of 7,000 euro per square metre interest proved phenomenal, with packages allegedly snapped up by stars such as ski jumping legend Adam Malysz and former national football captain Jacek Bak. All very well so far, only no one appeared to have a clue about the financial crisis which was lying in ambush. Work on the tower had originally been forecast to finish in 2009, but construction ground to a halt. The project became the subject of a long-running court battle over whether it had the necessary permissions to be built and its developer, the Orco property group, found itself in difficult financial waters. It looked like Warsaw was going to have a half-finished concrete epitaph to the financial travesties of the noughties right in the heart of the city. Fortunately all finally seems to have been resolved. After a court decision in October 2010 allowing Orco to start building again, construction on the skyscraper has resumed. Now scheduled to be completed 2 years behind schedule in 2012, it appears that the financial crisis hasn’t stopped Warsaw from continuing to change beyond recognition. Which will be welcome news to the city gods whose opposite numbers in Krakow saw that city’s tallest building stand half-built and empty for over thirty years with work abandoned on the 90 metre structure the moment communist Poland was plunged into economic meltdown. Zlota 44 Courtesy of Orco Property Group 34 WHERE TO STAY Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 35 WHERE TO STAY October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com filled with designer furniture and extras such as DVD players, hi-fi and fully functioning kitchens. Very chic, and absolutely perfect for the travelling CEO. Services include a 24hr English- speaking reception, laundry and business facilities. Q46 rooms (46 apartments). PTHARLGKW P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel. (+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all budgets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end of the market. Q60 rooms (60 apartments). TA6GW Residence St. Andrew’s Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna 30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews. pl. Fantastic apartments in a wonderful, fully renovated building in the most central location possible: ul. Chmielna. Not a penny was spared in the decoration and kitting out of these places, and the nice little touches that are found all over - from the marble in the bathrooms to the fully fitted kitchens with washing machines and dishwashers - will convince you that this was money well spent. Free Wifi and daily cleaning included. If this were a hotel, it would be in the Cream of the Crop section, these apartments are that nice. Q24 rooms (24 apartments). PTARGW Hostels Camera B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel. (+48) 22 828 86 00, www.camerahostel.com. We’ve never seen a more bustling hostel than Camera, where the average age of the guests appears to be 22. Graffiti decorates nearly every bare space, including the shaky elevator, which adds to the very youthful feel. The large kitchen is painted like a cartoon saloon, and lanky male travellers feel comfortable enough to wander the halls in their boxer shorts. A great location and sense of camaraderie for younger travellers looking to connect and party. Q15 rooms (1 single, 5 doubles, 1 triple, 70 Dorm beds). 6GW Emma C-4, ul. Wilcza 25/4, tel. (+48) 22 629 76 95, www.emmahostel.pl. Possibly the most eco-friendly hostel in Warsaw, Emma is run by a cooperative of five people focused on offering green accommodation. What does that mean? Rubbish is segregated, all the cleaning products used are bio-degradeable, the furnishings are partly made from secondhand wood and the tea/coffee is all from Fair Trade sources. The rooms themselves are clean and efficient (a socket by every bed for easy charging) and Emma even offers guests free bikes to roam the city. A hostel with an agenda that works. Q12 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 3 triples, 27 Dorm beds). T6GW NEW Fest Hostel C-3, ul. Oboźna 7 lok. 64 (entrance from ul. Sewerynów), tel. (+48) 506 28 52 86, www.festhostel. pl. The true hostelling experience can be found at Fest, which doesn’t offer any flair - the concrete block building has all the charm of a former mental institution, towels are issued only “upon request” and the bright dorm rooms are pure Ikea chic. Instead Fest focuses on the things die-hard travellers appreciate most: a location in the heart of the University area (you will not be wanting for friends to party with), loads of tourist information and tips, free breakfast and a healthy wi-fi connection. Q4 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 18 Dorm beds). 6GW Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 468 00 66, www.moonhostel.pl. If it’s all about location then Moon Hostel’s new Warsaw location is one of the best, with a prime building in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms range from one to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms, and in-room flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge area is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a foosball table ready for action. Ideal for visitors who want their hostel to feel like a hotel. Q26 rooms (14 doubles, 5 triples, 3 quads, 1 Five-person room , 1 Six-person room , 1 Seven-person room , 1 Eight-person room). TA6GW Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are currently getting a small refurb though they still don’t have numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team of local artists. Take a look at ‘The Realm of Narnia’, like something straight out of C.S. Lewis, or ‘The Communist Dorm’, filled with commie iconography and scenes from So- cialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also available for guests (iffy in rooms, always in common spaces), as well as what the owners promise is ‘the cheapest beer in Warsaw’. For something more upmarket check into the decidely boutique Castle Inn, a second pet venture from the same team behind the Oki Doki. Q37 rooms (1 single, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 60 Dorm beds). TYA6G Team Hostel D-7, ul. Lechicka 23 B, tel. (+48) 22 868 09 68, www.teamhostel.com. Get recruited for Team Hostel, a newcomer that makes the hostelling experience rather plush with air conditioned rooms, free wi-fi and a location that splits the difference between the airport and the city centre. With easy access to public transit you’ll be in bunk bed heaven here, where guests can choose from the private two-bed option or the more communal 20-bed megaroom.Q14 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 100 Dorm beds). TA6GW Are you tired of staying in standard hotels? Feel at home in P&O Apartments in Warsaw. P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent in the center of the City for overnight stays or for longer visits and helps you to feel at home in Warsaw. We offer professional service, quality and excellent locations as well as competitive pricing. land line +48 22 636 86 99, mobile +48 508 135 995 e-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl For sun lovers we offer properties for Sale & Rental on the Costa Del Sol in Spain. Visit our new and modern office in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us +34 663 652 145; +34951245424 Internet: www.pandoapartments.es email: [email protected] Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22 207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. Another hotel where spending the extra on a premium ‘komfort’ room is wholly encouraged. Doing so gains you digs in clean, renovated rooms with functional furniture and wifi and tv. Cutting costs gets you something altogether more basic. Q231 rooms (231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 triples). TYHAR6ULGK h Apartments NEW H15 Boutique Apartments B-4, ul. Poznańska 15, tel. (+48) 22 55 38 700, www.h15boutiqueapart- ments.com. For those who prefer an apartment instead of a cramped hotel, H15 has upped the stakes. The exterior alone is a show-stopper of a 19th century building that plays host to 48 modern flats that range in size and design (studios to large one-bedrooms with balconies). Each comes with a kitchenette, massive TV, wireless internet and bathrooms that give your local spa a run for their money. The customer service is attentive, though the fact that H15 has already thought of everything means you’re unlikely to need it.Q48 rooms (48 apartments). PTA6LGW InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Luxury apartments aimed at the long-stay corporate traveller. Guests are awarded all the privileges granted to those staying in the hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the fitness centre. Q76 rooms (76 apartments). PTHA R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Mamaison Residence Diana Warsaw C- 3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505 91 00, www.mamaison.com/diana. An outstanding set of serviced apartments 36 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com African La MaMa A-2, ul. Andersa 23, tel. (+48) 22 226 35 05, www.lamama.eu. It helps to have an adventurous appetite at Warsaw’s newest contribution to African dining, where no one bats an eye i f you order the baked goat head or a pile of fried gizzards. Stick to safer fare like the African risotto with beef and fried plantain and your stomach will thank you - and be sure to add a Nigerian beer like Star or Gulder. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (20-60zł). TAU6GSW American Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experi- enced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia, and Warsaw’s chapter is no different. The two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws. Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled “Guns” for him and “Roses” for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115zł). PTAUEGSW Sioux B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55, www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild West as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely. Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to recreate li fe around the campfire with unimpressive ribs, cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like fajitas and burritos. You’ll find a Sioux serving up cheap, completely average food in almost every city of size in Po- land, and unless you’re a diehard wagon wheel fanatic, trot your spurs on to a more interesting (and flavourful) option. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-99zł). PTAUGSW SomePl ace El se C- 4, ul . Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www. warszawa.someplace- else.pl. SPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as l ong as we can remember, and a recent visi t shows li ttl e has changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage of lamb and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Medi ter- ranean veggi es - epi c and creati ve. The large, open bar is capabl e of mi xing up anything you can think of, including a spi cy bl oody Mary to accompany the Sheraton’s brunch, whi ch is served here on Sunday. Recommended particularly i f you are sleeping upstairs so you won’t have far to haul your happil y fed sel f. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (41-160zł). PTAUEGSW T.G.I. Friday’s E-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. (+48) 22 653 83 60, www.tgifridays.pl. The Friday’s experience as replicated the world over, so no surprises to find Americana aplenty and staff fitted out with bells, whistles and other moronic markings. The Warsaw op features decent burgers and, i f you catch them on the right day, some smashing steaks. By day a famil y fave, at night it’s a bit more grown up with expats and locals, usually in office attire, drinking shots and braying for cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (35-70zł). PTAUGSW Warsaw’s come a long way and fast, and nowhere is the urban vi- brancy more apparent than i n the ci ty’s pro- gressive culinary scene. The i mmedi ate post- communist obsession wi th I tal i an has si nce given way to fusion, sushi and - most recently - steak, and dining out is now a truly international experience. Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy or plainly incompetent service being a common lament. You’d think the opening hours we list are sel f- explanatory. Not so. Venues will more often than not close their doors i f business is slow. Other ‘restobars’ often employ di fferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most expensive main course on the menu. In regards to tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only i f you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for. Business Restauracja Różana is an experienced local offering that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as the city’s top restaurant. For a more casual atmosphere we’ve spotted many briefcases and ties at Socjal’s communal table. Cheap The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are a legacy to the communist past, and while they’re cheap you may wish to skip them unless you really are bone broke and starving. Couples Solec 44 has a solid menu and a massive array of board games at which you can challenge (and beat) your sweetheart while Halka has elegant date night interiors and a menu to match. Kids Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and they do know how to make your special ones feel special. And Kosmos Kosmos has an entire epic playroom for kids, and a menu designed for their parents. Lads The Warsaw Tortilla Factory is the place to prove your worth to the team by guzzling lager from private taps while noshing on the city’s best burritos. If you like meatier fare we’ve got plenty of burger recommendations like Barn Burger and LOKAL.BISTRO to share while steak lovers should head directly to 99 Restaurant and Bar. Polski Eat Commie style in Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wiepr- zem, or for a more upscale take on Polish cuisine try Dom Polski. Celebrity chef Magda Gessler makes Polish goulash stylish (and isn’t it the perfect season for it?) at Masz Gulasz. Eating at a glance 38 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 39 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Balkan Banja Luka B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Reliable Banja Luka has moved! Sure, their Facebook page doesn’t seem to know it yet, but we do - where else do you head in Warsaw for monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town? The more central spot means the city’s officebots have discovered a great new lunch special, with 24zl filling you with a new daily menu that sounds like what a small wrestling team might take down: large lumps of roast pork, pancakes with spinach, spicy fish soup and even baklava for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (38-75zł). PTAEGSW Brazilian Browar de Brasil B- 4, ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy, and carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat that arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for 64zł. Sure to be as popular as the flagship Łódź location. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (15-80zł). PTAXS British Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar. pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking (and eating) man’s football watching venue of choice. Basi- cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak and kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if the waitress can work out which channel is showing what). What it needs now are a few pints spilt on the floor and a few rowdy evenings to knock off the ‘new’ look. Find it a stone’s throw south of the Marriott hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50zł). PTA6XSW Chinese Cesarski Pałac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. The lunch deal is one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit of a free- for-all once the clock hits one. The food is a mix of Chinese flavours, with more Szechuan than Beijing, though it’s this lack of focus that eventually hamstrings this locale: there’s just too much on offer. If they stuck to what they knew best it could easily become one of the better Asian eateries in Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (29-136zł). PTAUGSW China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed Wilanów district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants the decoration is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns and lots of reds and blacks with an aquarium and fountain centrepieces. The food is authentic with a particular focus on the cuisine of the Jiangsu region and the menu offers a comprehensive choice of dishes including a beautifully presented Nanjing duck. Of note if you are visiting the palace at Wilanów, you’ll find it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka, the start of which is the left of the two streets directly across the road from the palace entrance. It’s definitely worth the walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-59zł). PTAUGSW The Oriental C- 3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05, www.theoriental. pl. Exquisite dishes at premium prices. The menu covers every kitchen from Japan to Singapore, with the seafood earni ng parti cul arl y hi gh scores. From the 15th-27th of October a special Thai buf fet will be on hand from Monday-Saturday from 17:00 - 22:30 for 85zl per person. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. (35-140zł). PTAUGSW Czech U Szwejka F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establishment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic to use with the staff, but there’s certainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by ordering in steins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (18-52zł). PTAEXSW French Charlotte. Chleb i Wino F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into Char- lotte’s pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine bubbling past, but instead it’s your waitress bringing giant jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this doesn’t look like typical French portion control. This new French bakery/ bistro is already a popular breakfast spot, and a communal table in the center of the restaurant is a genius solution for the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a latte. The service at this start-up is still spotty, but considering the crowds it’s also understandable. Charlotte is the ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le snob. QOpen 07:00 - 23:45, Fri 07:00 - 00:45, Sat 09:00 - 00:45, Sun 09:00 - 21:45. (8-18zł). TA6GSW La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kościelna 12 (Mamaison Le Regina Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 531 60 70, www. leregina.com. Tucked i nsi de the el egant Mamai son Hotel, this high impact treasure presided over by chef Paweł Oszczyk will leave you bowled over. Decorated with calming vanilla and caramel colours, Rotisserie is a worthy indulgence i f you’re looking to impress and have the bank to do it. The chef’s tasting menu is the place to splurge, with six courses of Polish/French cuisine that emphasises seasonal foods, while the three-course lunch menu lets budget conscious foodies get their hands on the likes of Welsh lamb, risotto and a rich chocolate cake. Recom- mended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (86-124zł). PTAGSW Saint Jacques A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. (+48) 22 620 25 31, www.saintjacques.pl. Directly across the road from the Warsaw Financial Centre and a few more metres from the Intercontinental hotel, this French venture is adorably quaint and well located. A range of well-prepared French favourites (including frogs legs and snails) are served amongst black and white floor-to-ceiling pictures of French street scenes that make it easy to forget the busy city speeding by outside. The lamb shank with herbs and truffle puree and brunoise vegetables is their signature dish for a reason, but we were equally delighted with the rustic savoury crepes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56zł). PTAGSW After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU countries with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into effect on November 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations, schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged to place a clear and visible ‘No Smoking’ sign and anyone caught smoking by either the police or local city guards (Straż Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500zł fine. However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places, the law states that there can be a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. In response to the controversial legislation, many owners have exercised their right to create a small smoking room, however others have made the majority of their establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement, some establishments openly flout the law by allowing smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid places which continue to allow smoking on the premises we have used the following symbols throughout the guide: G This place has a complete smoking ban on the premises X This place has a smoking section on the premises Smoking ul. Andersu 23. Vurszuvu reservullons: 22 226 35 05 lnfo_lumumu.eu. vvv.lumumu.eu fucebook.com/lu.mumu.ufrlcu Ve serve reul Afrlcun energy MONDAY Tap beer half price TUESDAY Two gurmańskia pljeskavica for the price of one WEDNESDAY Rakija‘s day THURSDAY & FRIDAY Fresh mussels SATURDAY Big butcher‘s swine SUNDAY Cooking school for kids ul. Szkolna 2/4, Warszawa tel. +48 (22) 828 10 60 [email protected] www.banjaluka.pl GREAT PROMOTIONS ALL WEEK 40 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Greek El Greco A-3, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. (+48) 22 654 04 58, www.elgreco-restauracja.pl. On the downside is a location on the ground floor of a hulking sixties tower block. Fortunately they’ve done a good job on doing it up, and you’ll only notice now we’ve told you. It certainly looks the deal with a light, bright atmosphere, while the menu is the complete Grecian experience, right down to the excellent seafood. There’s even the option for breakfast during the weekday, an additional reason to pop in and have a look around. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (34-72zł). PTAUXSW Indian Buddha Indian Restaurant C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Buddha really impressed when they opened up a couple of years back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries follow a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kid- friendly dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30-130zł). PTAVGSW Namaste India C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. What was a tiny grocery store with fogged up windows has expanded - granted, the windows are still fogged, and the grocery store remains tiny, but you’ll now find seating shifted into a side room, meaning there’s no more chance of some irritating browser dropping a tin of mango chutney on your head. For office workers around town this, the original Namaste, remains the best, and we can’t help but admit this is some of the best ethnic food around - better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. If you’re picking up a takeaway ring ahead, waiting times are torture. Also at (B-2) ul. Piwna 12/14. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-40zł). PUGSW Namaste India Clay Oven B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66, www.namasteindia.pl. When Namaste first opened it proved such a success story a new venue was needed to cope with the overflow custom. Guess what, that proved such a success story yet another venue was needed. And if you thought the previous effort was pretty good, then bow down and worship at what is up there with the great Indian restaurants of Central Eastern Europe. There’s no such thing as a bad meal here, but to really hit the high notes order the butter chicken - incomparable to any other curry in town. Also at ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (B-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-40zł). PTAVGS Saffron Spices F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. (+48) 22 622 94 10, www.saffronspices.pl. Open less than a year and Saffron Spices has already made big changes, shi fting the restaurant from a drab, undecorated space on Plac Konstytucji to a two-story mammoth with views of the street and more atmosphere. Fortunately the food remains consistentl y good: the restaurant’s si gnature lentil dish is an instant favourite, pairing deliciously with piping hot naan. The crunchy onion bhaji are also a good pre-meal option, especially since the speedy staff brings them out ahead of the main course. An additional Asian menu of dishes like pad Thai, fried rice and various Viet- namese dishes is now also available, but we’re partial to the Indian staples. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). PTAUGSW Fusion Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl. Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet, interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep happy local foodies coming back for more. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30. (45-150zł). PTAUGSW Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99, www.papaya.waw.pl. We’ll never tire of recommending Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restaurants in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium, while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the chefs at work; these guys don’t miss a beat, and show off every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like steamed bass in banana leaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (32- 265zł). PTAXSW Theatro C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 22 828 09 32, www.theatro1811.com. Newcomer Theatro is easily the most grown-up place on Warsaw’s busy Foksal Street. The interiors instantl y wow - and make you reflexi vel y smooth your attire - and show an impressive attention to detail in everything from the stone walls to the immaculately set tables. Where Theatro loses steam is its enormous menu; our waiter had to be sent away twice as we pawed through pages of just drink choices. “Fusion” seems to mean “everything but the kitchen sink,” and the well-priced entrees can be hit (mix vegetable salad) and miss (a gluey papardelle pasta). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (30-54zł). PTAGSW Galician C.K. Oberża B- 4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22 828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners, pints of lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented inside a basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu is all pork chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals, and happil y consumed by crowds who recognize a serious bargain. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (27- 68zł). AGS Georgian Bar Gruziński Argo B-2, ul. Piwna 46, tel. (+48) 22 635 06 03. Where once was the smallest curry house in all Poland now stands a Georgian chop house which serves brilliant food at cracking prices. The lamb in plum sauce is top notch, and the chinkali (Georgian dumplings) will give any pierogi in town a run for their money. Only a handful of tables, so reserve if you want to eat here at weekends. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (24-38zł). GS German Adler C- 4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48) 22 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. I t’s been years si nce Adl er was touted as a top restaurant, but those who do vi si t wi l l fi nd j ust that. Sti l l popul ar wi th an over-40 busi ness crowd thi s ci rcul ar haunt comes l aden wi th peasant contrapti ons, and serves up cl assi c German reci pes presented by gi rl s dressed as Hei di. QOpen 10: 00 - 23: 30, Sat, Sun 13: 00 - 23: 30. (39- 65zł). PTA6GS ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01 www.buddha.info.pl www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland Buddha Indian Restaurant 42 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 43 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com International Bagno Food & Wine B-3, ul. Bagno 2, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 77, www.bagno2.pl. Bagno proves to be full of surprises. A simpl e order of the teri yaki burger comes with cucumer salad and potatoes ; the attentive staff manages a bustling lunchtime trade of nearby office workers smoothly; and what appears to be an industrial, concrete-and-plywood décor is accented with a series of large photos of naked Asian women in bondage. Thrown for a loop? You sure are, but it’s a good one. The menu is short and to the point, with items like Italian bruschetta and Asian sesame chicken blending together seamlessly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (19-37zł). PTAUGSW Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67 77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhall e have 2 locations in the city of which this is the more central. Located on the equivalent of Warsaw’s main street, you’ll find bench seating, generous portions of good food and a tasty range of in-house brewed beers. Match a stein of fresh pils with something from their picture menu which features local favourites like pierogi, pork knuckle and kaszanka (a kind of black pudding) as well as dishes more often associated with Poland’s beer drinking neighbours; German Wurst, Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian Goulash. Simple, accessible and with regular promotions make this a popular spot. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun 12:00 - 21:45. (18-50zł). PTAGSW BrowArmia B-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, BrowArmia is by no means second best. The interior has a dark beer hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition - the sticky wings pair perfectly with a Bro- wArmia pils. More importantly the beer is top standard and best imbibed on the seasonal terrace looking onto bustling Krakowskie Przedmieście. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-66zł). PTAEXSW Concept C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.likusconceptstore.pl. It’s hard to do justice to Concept restaurant, one of the most impressive dining experiences to be found in War- saw. Found inside a former pre-war bathhouse this place is accessed down a gloomy looking courtyard, flanked on each side by kebab stands and student dives. Don’t turn back. Instead duck through the entrance to find yoursel f in a whole di fferent world. Decorated with glazed floor tiles, shimmery fabrics and a skylight this place looks every inch a masterpiece. Keeping up with the surrounds is the food, with a newly launched menu that includes a near perfect steak. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Cl osed Sun. (29-99zł). PTAEXSW DeCoteria H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60 22 52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a pleasant orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter- free locations in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has a crowd that mixes young Praga hipsters with moms toting strollers, all tucking into a menu that seems to offer dishes from around the globe (Hungarian-style pancakes with stew, for a start). We stuck to the Polish fare and found the potato pancakes to be a winner. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-45zł). TA6UGSW Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53, www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of customers by its designer looks and top location amongst Warsaw’s biggest and best hotels, this place doesn’t have to be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made us love the place all over again, as the menu of simple Italian classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look out for the changing specials, which on our last trip included some terri fic grilled salmon with leek sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (19-49zł). PTAVGSW Flow C-3, ul. Chmielna 2, tel. (+48) 519 30 00 68. A light, bright cafe bar on the corner of Chmielna and Nowy Świat, day time sees coffee and a decent choice of lunch options served in a modern setting with large windows offering plenty of people watching opportunities. As day turns to night, this turns into a decent pre-club option with guest DJs coming in to entertain the young and fashionable crowd. One of the few central places with an indoor smoking area incidentally. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (20-40zł). PAEXSW Galeria Freta B-1, ul. Freta 39, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 35, www.galeriafreta.pl. Bar? Restaurant? Café? A mix of all to be honest, and a highly impressive addition to an area more known for its tourist traps. Landmarks here include a glass topped atrium filled with plants and posters, as well as a more formal chamber consisting of antiques and gilt. This place is huge, and well worth poking around, and while the design suggests dollar signs it actually transpires to be a very good deal. Salads are a particular forte, though more voracious appetites should look to the king prawns. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (22-79zł). PTAGSW Authentic Indian and Thai cuisine prepared by chefs from India and Thailand. Wide range of alcoholic beverages. Special indian and thai lunch menu from 12 pm to 4 pm at very attractive prices. Ample space for organising private parties and corporate dinners. PL. KONSTYTUCJI 3, WARSAW For reservations please call TEL. 22 622 94 10, MOB. 797 597 100 info@saffronspices. pl, www. saffronspices. pl restauracja indyjska i tajska If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, warsaw.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it. Socjal “I was quite surprised by this place. It might sound strange, but I almost never buy pizza out somewhere because I am picky about crust. This place, however, has one of the best thing crusts I have seen and tasted in Central Eastern Europe and CIS…excellent tomato sauce…not too much junk on top Barrie, Ukraine, September 2012 U Kucharzy “The atmosphere is great – like nothing we had experienced before. It seemed chaotic but was very efficient. We had a delicious three course ‘express menu’ lunch of onion soup, trout and a small sweet for the princely sum of 30zl each.” Gai Waud, Australia, August 2012 Soul Kitchen “Place with a soul – cuisine that is simple and delicious. Really enjoyed while visiting Warsaw. It was special when chef Andrej Polan was talking to us at the end. Will come back when visiting Warsaw next time.” Max, United States, July 2012 Have Your Say Bracka 9, Warsaw tel. +48 22 310 7373 www.vitkac.com open: mon-sun 11.00-23.00 Concept 13 is located on the top ﬂoor of VITKAC - the ﬁrst luxury department store in the country. The bright, modern interior offers breathtaking views of the capital’s vibrant urban scenery. But the architecture is not all – the cuisine will satisfy even the most discerning gourmand. The modern international menu with Polish traditional accents guarantees culinary contentment. Th ink India ... Think Namaste India Mon-Sat 11.00 - 22.00, Sun 12.00 - 22.00 [email protected] | www.namasteindia.pl ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town) +48 22 635 77 66 ul. Nowogrodzka 15 +48 22 357 09 39 44 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 45 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Grand Kredens A- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. (+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few pl aces i n Warsaw match thi s for a fi ne, dare we say splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously, enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terri fic variety of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has been around Warsaw longer than we have and it’s a treat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (33-100zł). PTA6UIEGSW GR Bistro & Restaurant B- 3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego), tel. (+48) 22 828 42 85, www.grbistro.pl. A two-l evel bi stro set on a qui et street j ust away from the hustl e and bustl e i n the centre of the ci ty. A smal l downstai rs area connects to an i nti mate upstai rs wi th bl ack and whi te pri nts on wal l s tasteful l y decorated wi th stri ped wal l paper set above wooden pi cture rai l s. The menu i s conci se featuri ng an i nternati onal sel ecti on of wel l -prepared and presented di shes i ncl udi ng soups, sal ads, pastas and meat di shes. Good as a l unch stop, where the dai l y speci al s are wel l -worth the few euro pri ces, i t i s a parti cul arl y recommendabl e as a pl ace for an i nti mate meal away from the crowds of Chmi el na wi th the food matched by a good sel ecti on of wi nes and cocktai l s. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (25-54zł). TA6GSW Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel. (+48) 22 887 87 64, www.jazzzone.pl. A venue of legend, with a show stealing skylight allowing diners the privilege of dining under the stars. Can anything be more romantic? Certainly, like the old town location for a start. Faultlessly presented, the menu here is global in style and every much the l ure as the j azz that’s promised. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (22-45zł). PTAEGSW NEW Kosmos Kosmos F- 4, ul . Koszykowa 55, tel . (+48) 535 55 85 52, www.kosmoskosmos.pl. Do tots and tippl es mi x? They do at Kosmos Kosmos, and surprisingl y well. This new bar/restaurant has an entire separate play space j ust for ki dl ets, and i t’s not j ust col ouring books and bl ocks ei ther - think ladders, sli des and ki d-sized tabl es and chairs. This basement space doesn’ t sacri fi ce on desi gn j ust because i t’s ai mi ng at famili es, so parents can retain their cool cred whil e enj oyi ng an array of wel l -made burgers, pastas and vegetarian dishes al ong wi th that l ong-overdue dri nk. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-30zł). TA6EGSW Na Zielnej B-3, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 22 338 63 33, www.nazielnej.pl. You may remember this as KOM, an old favourite housed in Warsaw’s former telephone exchange. Re-branded and given a slight makeover, this has been immediately installed as one of our fave places in the city. There are in fact now three venues in one: a bistro, which is open for lunch; a restaurant (both offering the same menu of simple yet wonderfully cooked food); and a small shop where you can buy traditional Polish fixings like preserves and honey. Not cheap but terri fi- cally good value, it is well worth a visit. Take a moment to check out the remnants of the exchange on your way to the lavatory. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30-69zł). PTAUXSW Piekna 56 F- 4, ul. Piękna 56, tel. (+48) 22 412 06 56, www.piekna56.pl. Nei ghbourhood restaurants don’ t get more charmi ng than Pi ekna 56, a senti ment you’ll agree wi th as soon as you spot the bri cks wi th ti ny plants growing out of them that dot each birch tabl e. The twee-ness doesn’ t stop there, but l et the menu distract you; our cod coated i n sunfl ower seeds and Mexi can torti l l a soup were l i ck-your-pl ate worthy, and the wi ne l i st i s easi l y navi gabl e thanks to the hel pful wai t staf f. We’d gl adl y suf fer through more bad dates i f they al l came wi th meal s l i ke thi s one. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł). TAUGSW Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25, tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall fill ed wi th the sound of beery anti cs and oompah musi c. The word here is size, wi th Warsaw’s bi ggest portions comi ng wi thi n a whi sker of sendi ng tabl es keel i ng. This is basi call y meat, cabbage and potatoes served on huge wooden boards by wai tresses obviousl y l ess fragil e than they l ook. Certai nl y the best val ue i n Ol d Town, wi th beer usuall y playing a bi g part in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (20-50zł). PTAUEGBSW Restauracja Concept 13 C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 73, www.vitkac.com. Tucked inside the high- end VITKAC shopping center, Restauracja Concept 13 lives up to its luxurious location with soaring fifth floor views of the city and stylish design. The modern urban eatery offers its best deals at lunch, where 50zl gets you multiple courses of their creative cuisine - trust us, its a deal. If the weather allows then there’s no place better than the terrace, even if its just for a cocktail. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45-100zł). PTA6UXSW Restaur acj a Kul tur a B- 2, ul . Kr akowski e Przedmieście 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www. restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons will bri ng a chill ed crayfish soup to your tabl e before presenting you with a bill that should, given quality, be far higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (32-59zł). PTAEGBSW Restauracja Wilanów ul. S. K. Potockiego 27 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.res- tauracjawilanow.com. An extraordi nar y excursi on back to the days of a pl anned Pol i sh economy, thi s much tal ked about cl assy restaurant serves a range of i nternati onal and Pol i sh food i n a bl ast to the past atmosphere. Despi te what they say about the pl ace there’s no i gnori ng the servi ce. Breathtaki ngl y snobby, expect to be treated like somethi ng the cat dragged i n i f you’re not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (32-58zł). PTAGS Restaurant @Ferdy’s A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 (Radis- son BLU Centrum Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 321 88 22, www. ferdys.pl. A class act found on the ground floor of the Radis- son. Veneered woods, potted plants and huge shutters lend an atmosphere not dissimilar to the first class deck of a cross Atlantic liner, while the steaks are reputed to be some of the best in the city. Not a cheap indulgence, but a worthwhile one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (36-164zł). PTAUGS Taste the forest at Kredens restaurant in the carpaccio with porcini mushrooms and goose leg with beetroot and special przecieraki noodles. Al. Jerozolimskie111, Warszawa tel. 226298008 www.kredens.com.pl [email protected] Happy Hour From 16.00 to 18.00 enjoy a happy hour of selected spirits and beverages at a 50% discount Polish tipping eti quette can be a bi t confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘ thanks’ when a wai ter coll ects the money, you’ll be horri fied to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dzi ękuj e’ (thank you), or even ‘ thank you’ i n English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only say ‘ thank you’ i f you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ when handing back the bill and the payment. Despi te the fact that the average wai tress in PL onl y makes a pal try 10-15zł/hr, a customary tip is still onl y around 10% of the meal’s total (though being a forei gner may make staf f expectant of a bi t more generosi ty). As such, we encourage you to reward good servi ce when you feel i t’s deserved. Fi nal l y, i t is not common to add the tip to your credi t card payment because wai tstaf f are forced to then pay tax on the gratui ty; most likel y you will not even be abl e to l eave a tip on your card. Have some change handy so you can still l eave a cash tip, or ask your server for change. Tipping Tribulations 46 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 47 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com students who flock here for coffee after lectures. By night the crowd gets trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen eating the well-priced food through the glass walls. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (18-45zł). PTAUEGBSW Socjal C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 601 31 89 66. Socjal comes with excellent pedigree - it’s the creation of the folks behind 12 Stolikow, which was named one of the top 5 restaurants in the city last year. Socjal is another win for this crew, boasting a rotating menu of Italian entrees and salads (prosciutto and melon for the win) that diners order via the restaurant’s chalkboard. The communal tables force diners to be “socjal” with their neighbours, an asset when you see a delicious plate and want to casually ask, “What’s that?” QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (28-68zł). PAGBS NEW Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96, www. solec.waw.pl. Solec 44 marries two of the best things around at one location: delicious food and the joy of beating the crap out of your friends at board games. Come for the grub - which is a delectable menu of fresh, local and seasonal options plus hearty sandwiches - but stay for the chance to crack into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble with a beer in hand. The space itself (which can be tough to find and is tucked behind a kebab shop) is sprawling and ideal for long evenings of dice rolling, especially when the sun cruelly sets at 16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (26-79zł). PTA6XSW Soul Kitchen F-4, ul. Noakowskiego 16 lok. 27, tel. (+48) 519 02 08 88, www.soulkitchen.pl. Soul Kitchen’s aim is to stir emotions and touch souls with their cooking. Corny? Indeed. But tasting is believing, and this straightfor- ward menu makes a good case for the power of simple cooking. Don’t skip the soup, which is where we first fell in love, and from there it’s impossible to go wrong as the seasonal menu changes often and innovatively. The interior is a stark chic that will initially strike diners as cold, but a spot in the garden quickly cures that assessment. The lunch special, available from 12:00-16:00, is comprised of soup, a main and dessert and is a steal at just 25zl. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (38-67zł). TAEGSW STO900 H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48) 787 69 62 41, www.1500m2.com. Any time a chef will hold up what he’s making - in this case wiggling a kluski kładzione, a type of doughy Polish dumpling without filling, in the air - to explain what you’re ordering then you can feel good about where you’re dining. STO900 has the appearance of a student clubhouse with mismatched furniture, a glass rack made of hangers and a bumping Bob Marley soundtrack, but the menu is surprisingly grown up. Options are limited to the few dishes the aforementioned chef is making that day (our choice was ribs, the dumplings or a carrot-lemon soup) but he clearly thrives when not dividing his focus. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (15-50zł). TA6GSW Tamka 43 C-3, ul. Tamka 43, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 34, www.tamka43.pl. Location, location, location. You could probably open a dive serving tripe soup and nothing else and be successful here (here being opposite the Cho- pin Museum), but Tamka 43 would be brilliant anywhere. Modern and bright without overdoing it, by day it’s coffee and cakes, mums and kids, (there is a lunch option too) by night its serious drinks, light meals and well dressed smoothies. We love it to bits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (49-120zł). PTAUGSW Villa Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 87 16, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Villa Foksal has long had a name for good food and is a smart, modernish eatery found on one of Warsaw’s sexiest streets. Presentation is faultless, the cooking excellent and the menu an inventive interpretation of standard European finds. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (34-72zł). PAGSW You & Me C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379 03 79, www.youandmebar.pl. The narrow as hell yet shaded and glorious terrace is the top draw here in the warmer months while they also make a half-decent stab at an English breakfast. The lunchtime menu is top value, although we question their claim to serve the cheapest beer in Poland (have they been to Lublin). At night You & Me becomes a rather trendy bar that fills up with no tie, coloured-shirted types from the media companies whose offices line this street. Come prepared to do and talk business and you will love the place. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (39-65zł). PTABXSW Italian Festa Italiana Ristorante B- 4, ul. Hoża 27a, tel. (+48) 516 61 61 06, www.festaitaliana.eu. We know we shouldn’t fall for it, but Festa Italiana had us at “waitress wearing an Italian flag skirt.” Throw in a glossy menu that features three languages (Polish, English and Italian) and there’s no excuse for not having a large dollop of marinara somewhere on your clothes before the night is through. The pizzas taste wood-fired (though there’s no such oven in sight) and have a crisp Roman-style crust that makes it easy to eat an entire pie yourself. The creamy carbonara, highly recommended by our flag-draped waitress, proved to be just as worthy as the pizza. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). AGS Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13zł). PUGS Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18, tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23, www.leniwagospodyni.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (10-25zł). AGS Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34. This new milk bar has the décor to look modern, but all the classic staples of a traditional milk bar - bitchy staff, a dead bug in our drink, not enough tables - to feel like a Communist-era classic. Mleczarnia Jerozolimska is consistently busy, something we chalk up to location more than anything else. Our pierogis never materialized (anything not on hand behind the small counter is sent down via a food elevator) though the borscht and giant salad were both serviceable. Also at ul. Bagatela 15 (G-5). QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (6-12zł). PUGS Wiking C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 28, tel. (+48) 22 828 06 44, www.restauracjewiking.pl. A modern take on the often-dumpy milk bar, Wiking offers a spread of Polish staples in helpings bigger than your head. Simply point to the pile of meat or bursting veggie pancake you desire and the cheery maids will toss it in the oven for a warm-up before slapping it on an awaiting tray. The Nowy Świat location means Wiking does a brisk business even though the food skews towards the bland. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (11-34zł). PTAGS Milk bars Restro A-4, ul. Pańska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66, www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central Warsaw streets have a habit of ending abruptly before re- appearing again sometimes hundreds of metres away on the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the UN roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features offers a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes with a distinct Mediterranean feel. The tagiolini with scampi and coriander is a steal at around 6 euros although we often have a dilemma between that and one of the salads, the beef and spinach being another winner. Recommended but mind the opening hours. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (18-39zł). PTAUVGS SAM Restaurant & Bakery C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Fresh baked bread, plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs and superfoods like acai...it’s safe to say that SAM has arrived in Warsaw with some strong credentials, and after our visit we can declare it the Charlotte of the student set. You’ll find the same lacka- daisical service and hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zba- wiciela hotspot, and if you can overlook these flaws you’ll be delighted with healthy dishes that ensure you’ll forever be able to squeeze into those skinny jeans. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (14-35zł). TA6UGSW Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. If location is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Commanding a prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiescie a stone’s throw from the presidential place it looks like an architect’s show-home yet manages to create a decent atmosphere thanks to the 48 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 49 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Il Patio A- 4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 602 19 87 26, www.ilpatio.pl. Złote Tarasy isn’ t your average mal l, so why di ne on the standard fast food fi xes? I l Pati o si ts next to the mal l’s monstrous movi e theatre and has i mpressi ve vi ews of the bustl i ng ci ty bel ow. But our focus was on the pi zzas, whi ch are at thei r best when they aren’ t especi al l y I tal i an (l i ke the BBQ and Messi cana versi ons) and the l arge chunks of l asagna come coated i n a heal thy l ayer of mel ted cheese. Shoppers wi th tots i n tow wi l l appreci ate the ki ds menu. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (30-45zł). PTAUGSW La Tomatina F-3, ul. Krucza 47, tel. (+48) 22 625 10 47, www.latomatina.pl. La Tomatina’s enormous menu of Italian dishes can best be described as Bacchanalian; how else do you describe an orgy of nearl y 40 pizzas and 24 pasta choi ces? The pasta is all freshl y made in-house, which automatically gives every noodle dish a tasty boost. We doubt there’s an item in the kitchen that La Tomatina hasn’t put on their pizzas, and we especially liked the spicy slap of the diavola, which packs chilli oil, jalapenos, peppers and spicy salami onto one fiery pie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (21-47zł). PTA6VEGSW Roma G- 5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel. (+48) 22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma. pl. Attenti on to detai l i s apparent at Roma, and ever y aspect of thi s secreti ve restaurant hi nts at the nei ghbourhood l ocal es you’d fi nd i n the si de al l eys of I tal y. The i nteri or i s i nti mate, wi th si l ver ware resti ng on ci nnamon sti cks and pi l es of cri spy breadsti cks on ever y tabl e. The menu i tsel f i s encycl opaedi c - - we’re tal ki ng three pages of pastas - - enabl i ng Roma to bui l d a l oyal fan base across the years. We’re fans of the Neapol i tan soup, especi al l y on rai ny days, and i f you l i ke stri ngs of mozzarel l a dangl i ng from your l i ps we’re fai rl y cer tai n you wi l l too. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00, Sat 13: 00 - 23: 00, Sun 14: 00 - 21: 00. (25- 63zł ). PTAUGBSW Roma Bukieteria C- 4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48) 22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta might be the kind of thing you’re used to gorging on, but not here. Roma Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, terracotta and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of pasta has to be Rome itsel f, so take your time when sorting through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria, but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a charming date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (25-63zł). PTAGSW Trattoria Rucola B-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48) 888 57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Trattori a Rucol a has taught us a si mpl e truth: we’d surel y eat more sal ads i f they al l came wi th smoky bacon. The smel l of garl i c wafti ng onto Krakowski e Przedmi esci e wi l l undoubtedl y l ure you i n, the strange l eafy décor wi l l encourage you to grab a tabl e and the hefty menu of I tal i an stapl es wi l l mean a certai n bel t-l ooseni ng. Thi r t y pi zzas domi nate the menu, but we were i n- tri gued by the rare si ghti ng of doughy cal zones. The aforementi oned sal ads are soaked i n a l ush bal sami c dressi ng that no one shoul d be ashamed to l i ck from thei r fi ngers (we di d). Al so at H-3, ul. Francuska 6 and C-4, ul. Krucza 6/14. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-55zł). PTAVGSW Japanese We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in every major mall these days. 77 Sushi A-4, ul. Sienna 83, tel. (+48) 22 890 18 11, www.sushi77.com. The number 77 might well refer to the number of sushi stops in town - in fact, it says a lot about the city that it’s now easier to find sushi than it is a cabbage. You’re guaranteed the real deal in Sushi 77, where imaginative sets - try the California rolls, or even the hot sushi - come chopped and sliced inside an attractive interior. Some outlets offer local delivery. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna 48A, Open 12:00-22:30, Al. KEN 49 (Ursynów), Open 12:00-22:30 and ul. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze), Open 11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-49zł). PTAGSW Besuto C- 3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 20, www.besuto.pl. Besuto has moved from among the prefab cabins and ramshackl e pavilions inside Nowy Świat 22 to a more visi bl e l ocation j ust down the street at 27. The good news is the sushi, whi ch has histori call y been very decent hot and col d cuts prepared in front of your eyes, is still reliably delicious, and the new storefront is si gni fi cantl y l ess likel y to make your date questi on your commi tment - - the i nteri or al so gets marks for being bri ght and modern. The bad news is that a better l ocation means hi gher pri ces than Besuto l oyalists mi ght be used to, but i t’s worth i t to di g a li ttl e deeper. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-65zł). PTA6VGSW Bonsai E-2, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 620 88 22, www.sushibonsai.pl. A wel l -prepared and good sel ecti on of sushi served by a pol i te bl ack-cl ad staf f keeps thi s pl ace busy parti cul arl y duri ng the day when the surroundi ng of fi ce crowd are meeti ng for l unch. The sushi i s good and there i s al so a choi ce of hot dishes to choose from whil e you enj oy your Japanese cocktail ami dst the modern surroundi ngs. Our eel sushi and pl um cocktai l made for a refreshi ng l unch snack whil e the sketches of Japanese women on the wall l eft a l ot to the i magi nati on. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (28-54zł). PTAUGSW Inaba B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622 59 55, www.inaba.pl. Here’s a restaurant that was around years before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese owned and run everything about Inaba stri ves for authenti ci ty, and this is one of onl y three places in town that can claim a Japanese master chef calling the shots in the ki tchen. A pl easantl y panell ed interior creates a great atmosphere and those who want more than j ust raw fish shoul d take a l ook at the grill dishes (be sure to try the duck). QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (20-60zł). PTAGSW Kaya Sushi A-3, ul. Grzybowska 30, tel. (+48) 22 620 50 25, www.kayasushi.pl. Not the most obvious venue for a sushi restaurant - underneath a giant block tucked from the traffic - but Kaya are known as being a bit of an open secret among the sushi grapevine. The fish is great (isn’t it everywhere in Warsaw nowadays?), so what sets this venue apart is a strong line in Korean options that never disappoint. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (25-90zł). PTAUGSW Bar Salad Story B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 883 64 44 45, www.saladstory.com. Fast food gets the health treatment in Salad Story, a chain of outlets serving salads, sandwiches and soups. Also at (C-4) ul. Krucza 41/43, (C-4) ul. Nowy Świat 18/20 and (F-4) ul. Polna 46. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (10-23zł). PAUGS Burger King A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 713 86 15 88, www.burgerking.com.pl. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (15-22zł). PAUGSW Groole C-3, ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. (+48) 795 63 36 26, www.groole.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (6-17zł). TA6GSW KFC C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 713 86 16 90, www.kfc.pl. Also at (B-4) ul. Widok 26, (A-4, Złote Tarasy) ul. Złota 59, (F-4) ul. Piękna 28/34 and (A-2) Al. Solidarności 68 A. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (12-18zł). PTAUGSW McDonald’s B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 126-134, tel. (+48) 694 49 60 15, www.mcdonalds.pl. Various locations including ul. Złota 59 (A-4, Złote Tarasy), Al. Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawła II, pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa Centralna; A-4) and Al. Solidarności 117 (A-2). Breakfast served in selected branches till 10:30 during the week and 11:00 at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. (15-17zł). PTAGSW MG Eat Magda Gessler C-3, ul. Chmielna 32, tel. (+48) 22 827 47 13, www.mgeat.pl. Polish celebrity chef Magda Gessler brings her upscale dishes to the masses with this “fast” food establishment that pushes salads constructed with exacting precision that would make Gessler proud but can take ages if you’re in a rush. The shop’s half-sandwiches are criminally small though evilly delicious. And the brightly-colored modern restaurant also boasts heaps of desserts, most interestingly frozen yogurt - something we’ve seen nowhere else in ice cream-loving Poland. Also at ul. Królewska 2 (C-3, entrance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (6-23zł). PTA6UGSW Pizza Hut B- 4, ul. Widok 26 (entrance from ul. Chmielna), tel. (+48) 71 386 15 23, www.pizzahut. pl. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (15- 50zł). PTAUGSW Royal Menu, tel. (+48) 22 244 21 21, www. royalmenu.pl. A food, wine and flower delivery service with English-speaking operators and a choice of over 50 restaurant menus to choose from (think Polish food from Polka to sushi from Rice Field). Place an order over the phone or online and they’ll have the food delivered piping hot to your door in special containers in no time at all. Subway C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 24, tel. (+48) 22 828 40 25, www.swiezo.pl. Also at (B-4) Al. Jerozolimskie 31, (A-4, Złote Tarasy) ul. Złota 59, (F-4) ul. Polna 54, (A-3) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, (B-2) ul. Świętojańska 15/17 and ul. Mickiewicza 27/ Pl. Wilsona (Żoliborz) . QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (7-18zł). PAUGBSW Fast Food & Delivery 50 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 51 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh, spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At around 25zł a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the seafood ones are best - represents terrific value. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-95zł). PTAUVGSW NEW Kintaro Sushi B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. (+48) 22 881 78 51. This location on Nowogrodzka is like a black hole for restaurants, with previous tenants including French and Asian ventures. Now it has moved on to a Korean/sushi amalgamation that leaves us less than optimistic that the space won’t once again be changing hands. The Korean grill option, while unique, requires an advanced order - so don’t roll up with a craving - and the sushi is average even by Warsaw standards. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł). PAUGSW OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy Świat 46, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi spots in Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue with sitting outside on swanky Nowy Świat? - but the helpful staff, great tea options and fair prices put it squarely on top. A vegetarian sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to inari was tops, and the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we often encounter. Ducking in for a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green tea for a reasonable price. The small storefront means you may have to fight for a seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60zł). PTAVGSW Planet Sushi A- 4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 602 19 87 26, www.planetsushi.pl. Sushi? In a mall? We know, we had the very same thoughts. But step away from the burger chains and suspend your disbelief long enough to enjoy Planet Sushi and stereotypes will be shattered. Planet Sushi offers one of the better arrays of sets we’ve seen, and the Philadelphia roll was pure salmony goodness. If your mind hasn’t been completely blown at this point then order the dessert sushi - sweet rice wrapped around fresh fruit with a coconut cream sauce. Sushi in a mall! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (30-69zł). PTAUGSW Sushi To E- 3, Al. Jerozolimskie 109, tel. (+48) 22 625 66 03, www.sushito.pl. Yes, sushi is ri ght there in the name, and you’ll find pl enty of creati ve sets to choose from and some of the best ni giri we’ve had, but our favouri te parts of the Sushi To menu don’ t come i n roll form. The sal ad wi th fresh pi neappl e and fri ed shrimp is a standout, and the same can be sai d for the shrimp tempura. But i f sushi is what you’re after hi t up l unch, where you can choose from three sizes (small, medium, large) of specials that set you back just 22-32zł. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-44zł). PAVGSW Tomo Sushi C- 4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you won’t find better sushi in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the masses. Tomo’s reputation is well earned, and as such don’t be surprised to be knocking elbows with sushi snobs showing off deft chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-95zł). PTA6UGBSW An exceptional restaurant in the most beautiful park in Warsaw Belvedere Restaurant ul. Agrykoli 1 Free car-park from Parkowa street tel.: +48 22 55 86 700, +48 606 102 002 [email protected] www.belvedere.com.pl Kosher Rambam Kosher Cafe & Restaurant A-3, ul. Grzy- bowska 4, tel. (+48) 22 243 26 93, www.rambamres- taurant.pl. Make no mistake about it, Rambam is certified kosher; in fact, they post their certificate (courtesy of Rabbi Osher Yaakov Westheim of Manchester, United Kingdom) right on the door. Inside you’ll find a menu that skews Middle Eastern, with flavourful dishes like grilled eggplant and tahini offered as a starter and mains like spicy beef tajjiin with couscous. The only drawback to Rambam, which has some of the most attentive waiters we’ve encountered, is that your tasty plates can’t be accompanied by alcoholic beverages as they have yet to land a liquor license. Note that in October and November Rambam will open on Saturdays after sunset. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. (39-79zł). PTAUGSW Lebanese Le Cedre 84 A-3, Al. Solidarności 84, tel. (+48) 22 618 89 99, www.lecedre.pl. This popular Middle Eastern staple hops across the river to a more accessible location at the intersection of Jana Pawła and al. Solidarności and thankfully brings all their reliably exotic flavours along too. The interior is a magenta masterpiece and sets the scene for you and your Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu. Our recommendation: though we’re fans of the entrees like shawarma your best bet is to mix and match hot and cold starters, of which there’s a dazzling array (stuffed grape leaves and grilled halloumi top our list). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59zł). PTAUGSW Mediterranean Olive Garden A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. (+48) 22 624 01 91, www.restauracjaolivegarden.com. No need to squirm, this isn’t the bland Olive Garden chain you’re familiar with. Rather, this Olive Garden brings a decidedly exotic brand of dishes to War- saw in the form of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine like homemade pita bread and sweet kunafeh. For 20zl you can nab a lunch special of an appetiser (we suggest the house-made hummus), entree and dessert, all delivered in lightning speed to the hungry be-suited crowds. The available summer garden and sheesha pipes means Olive Garden is also a promising post-work spot to unwind. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (20-50zł). PTAEBXSW Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67, www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and last place in Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped us with our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That attention carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like hefty salads and bite-sized spanakopitas as well as hybrid Greek burgers for the carnivores, all imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The restaurant itself is so large it can be half filled with customers and still seem spacious, even with a packed white wraparound bar in the middle of the room. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (32-86zł). PTAUEGSW Mongolian Cesarski Pałac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. A basement grill where diners line up at food stations, pile ingredients into a bowl before handing it over for a Mongolian chef to cook - either in a wok or on a Hibachi grill. There’s plenty to choose from, and in the best traditions of East Asian cooking the cuts of meat are lean, mean with not a slither of fat to be seen. Perhaps that’s why it’s rare to spot a Polish diner. Fifty five zloty gets you all you can eat, which sounds a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (29-65zł). PTAGBSW )HVWD,WDOLDQD 5LVWRUDQWH ul. Hoża 27a , Warszawa Tel/Fax. 516 616 106 [email protected] www.festaitaliana.eu festaitalianaristorante $SODFHWKDWZLOOVWLPXODWH DOOWKHVHQVHV 52 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 53 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com menu includes such must-haves as saddle of rabbit with pumpkin seeds, buckwheat, broad bean purée and asparagus. Has Polish cuisine ever sounded so exciting? Of course, such pleasures aren’t cheap, but then neither are they in the astro- nomic zone you’d be likely to presume. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (69-89zł). PTAGSW Atelier Amaro G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628 57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. It’s not hyperbole to call Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s most modern restaurants, with famed chef Wojciech Modest Amaro describing the cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 “moments” (what us regular folks call courses) and employ traditional Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes - like juniper ice cream hugging a miniature chocolate cake with chestnuts (with dishes changing almost daily, your menu will undoubtedly be different). Count us as impressed that Amaro himself can be seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate restaurant just inside Łazienki Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 15:00 - 22:30, Mon 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (145-280zł). PAUGW Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22 558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Nestl ed i nsi de Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside and out. Although the landscaping is undergoing renovation, Belvedere is still a dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere, and diners can choose between a Polish or international menu that includes beef cheeks with jus sauce and vegetables.(a top recommendation) and exotic desserts like zabaglione (we hear the menu is set to change soon, though). Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (49-108zł). PTAEGSW Bistro Piąta Ćwiartka B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 56 85, www.kregliccy.pl/piataCwiartka.php. Adding a touch of class to the Old Town dining experience is Piąta Ćwiartka, a sublime looking hall with vaulted brick ceilings and arched glass windows. The castle location just screams tourist trap, and while it can’t be doubted they’re chasing the museum crowd, it must be said that ‘tourist food’ has never tasted this good before. Opt for dishes like the calf in fig and brandy sauce, but beware of the opening times - themselves structured around the castle hours. QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Mon. (32-45zł). PTAUGSW Bistro Warszawa B-2, ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 635 37 69, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Proof that not every restaurant on the Old Town square has to be a kitschy Polish throwback comes in the form of stylish Bistro Warszawa, where soothing whites and greys - - and not a knick-knack in site - - offer a modern oasis in the heart of the city. The menu is similarly forward-thinking, with “pre-war Polish cuisine” with marinated herring in truffle oil and a crisp pear and walnut salad. And while the atmosphere (and the regular jazz performances) suggest an upscale experience, don’t be afraid to order the more pedestrian Bistro burger, which comes complete with a paper cone of french fries. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-43zł). PTA6GSW Chłopskie Jadło F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance from ul. Waryńskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.chlo- pskiejadlo.pl. If you’ve been dying to try Poland’s traditional lard spread called smalec then this is your place. A nationwide chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food from the countryside, Chłopskie Jadło dishes up heaping portions of meat and pierogis on wooden slabs, with a dish of smalec and wedges of bread complimentary. The décor is country farm kitsch, with strings of hams and ancient machinery dangling from the walls. Slide onto a wooden bench (avoiding the decorative rusty saw) and start with local soups served inside a loaf of bread before loosening the belt and working through homemade dumplings and shanks of meat served by staff that appears as if they’ve just finished milking cows. A winning intro to Polish food. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-50zł). PTA6UGS Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl. One of the top eats around, set to a swish country manor background of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy duck with apple pancakes while aproned staff cater to your whim and fancy in what is set to be one of the premier dining experiences on the royal route. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-76zł). PTAGSW Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaw’s millionaires’ row you can expect Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of starters and several main courses to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar, and couldn’t fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-98zł). PTAUGSW Polish There are basically three ways you can experience the Polish dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surprisingly large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars, which you can read about elsewhere. Then there are the chains of ‘country cottage’ style places which turn out Polish staples of rye soup, stuffed dumplings and heaps of meat and veg in gut-busting portions. The third form is still a relatively new one and involves a growing number of young, world-class chefs using their talents to bring Polish cuisine into the 21st century. We can happily recommend all three forms depending on the occasion. Take a look at the places listed here to give you an idea of which is which. 99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fixture on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and still going strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design which is space age white and rather dashing compliments a highly-recommended, global menu which includes what’s possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located within a stone’s throw of some of the city’s finest hotels, this is one of the most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper whether you’re socialising, doing business or a bit of both. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (37-124zł). PTAUXSW Amber Room G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. (+48) 22 523 66 64, www.kprb.pl. Set inside the Sobański Palace what was (and indeed still is) the domain of the Polish Business Round Table Club has now opened its doors to the paying public. From the outside it looks the sort of place you’d see Prince Charles walking around shaking hands, though inside, and in spite of the marble and chandeliers, it’s a well designed area with more than a nod to modernist touches. The seasonal Old Town Square / ul. Jezuicka tel.: +48 (22) 635 37 69 mob. +48 501 438 007 www.bistrowarszawa.pl äaajs sa1 s|sr|-rs |ram I1 ||1 Ms|a taars-s |ram !I ||1 |-ss-r|s: Ia ||1 We i nvi te You for del i ci ous food and l i ve musi c 54 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) 22 890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of forti fying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners. I f you’re lucky enough to have a friend, then order the meat platter for two, a death by eating affair that will have your shirt buttons pinging off in no time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-69zł). PTAUIGSW Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Pańska 85, tel. (+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Named after one of Poland’s best loved operas Halka takes its name seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly designed to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisław Moniuszko’s popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly touches this is upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have a children’s corner. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (16-62zł). PTAUGSW Kaprys C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578 22 32, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. In a word: swank. Don’t believe us? You can spot a Bentley dealership from your table. Kaprys draws a clientele of nearby businessmen who know the importance of a well-cut suit, yet the service is universally attentive even if you’re, say, a scruffy writer. Captains of industry cut deals during the lunch special, which spans three courses but doesn’t dent the wallet - - you can easily still put in your payment on that Bentley. The decor is modern sparse which can read as cold, but dive into the menu and you won’t be sorry. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-110zł). PTA6XSW Literatka B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89 (second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827 30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shadow of Zygmunt’s column on the Warsaw’s poshest street, Li teratka is a tradi tional Polish restaurant wi th a cosy feel and an impressive range of Polski and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin steak before finishing with what the menu describes as apples in a bathrobe with strawberry mousse. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł). PTA6IEXSW Masz Gulasz F- 4, ul. Piękna 15, tel. (+48) 22 370 25 50. We thought i t was a ri sk of cel ebri ty chef Magda Gessl er to open a new restaurant so cl ose to her most recent venture, the wonder ful and i nnovati ve Słony. And whil e di ners have yet to embrace thi s homey spot speci al i si ng i n pi pi ng hot goul ashes l i ke they have Słony, Gessl er doesn’ t di sappoi nt wi th her take on thi s popul ar Pol i sh speci al ty. Tradi ti onal opti ons l i ke pork and sauerkraut pack a fi l l i ng punch, whi l e the chi cken, dri ed tomato and spi nach versi on actual l y makes the di sh feel surpri si ngl y l i ght - - not somethi ng you’d normal l y say about a stew. Though the i nteri or feel s a l i ttl e tri te ( j ars of grai ns and pi ckl ed sundri es as decor has been done to death) i t thankful l y doesn’ t i mpede i ngesti on. Here’s hopi ng some of Sł ony’s l uck rubs of f on Masz Gul asz. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (10-42zł). PTA6UGSW A passion for cooking is one of the greatest talents that people can bring to the world. It is from this passion that our restaurant can bring visitors to the fragrant lemongrass and coconut milk of Thailand...to the star anise and cinnamon of China...to the spicy, fragrant lime of South America... to the cream and garlic of France... or to the lively freshness and simplicity of Japan. All of these taste we have gathered in one place. Chef Tomasz Łapiński takes you on an engaging and sophisticated journey to almost all continents. We would like your every whim fulflled and the pleased look on your face will be the best reward. Remember that you are only limited by your imagination ..... Warsaw’s restaurant trends come in tsunami-like waves that sweep over the city and change the dining landscape seemingly overnight. The latest culinary fad to dominate the city will please carnivorous folks: the two-handed burger is top of the heap, and there’s no shortage of great establishments slinging the city’s best patties. NEW Barn Burger B-3/4, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 512 15 75 67, www.barnburger.pl. Warsaw’s burger may- hem reaches its apex at Barn Burger, a newcomer that demands you ditch your diet and buckle up for swarthy cheeseburgers and even the aptly-named Heart Attack burger (mmm bacon!). Every juicy sandwich is partnered with chubby fries and a cup of coleslaw, and you’re a champ i f you can finish the entire wooden tray your meal arrives on. Thankfully the calamitous small space is being exchanged for a larger one at ul. Złota 9 (B-3) at the start of October, which means your expanding waistline courtesy of these addicting burgers should easily fit inside (Sunday hours may also be added as well). QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sat 13:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (14-35zł). A6GS Burger Bar G-6, ul. Puławska 74/80. The space is small and the lines are long, but Burger Bar’s simple list of classic burgers makes up for what the location lacks (namely sides and much of a beverage selection). Choose from the chalkboard menu - we’ve had the juicy cheeseburger more than once - and tell the chef your selection. If the only other employee is on the phone he’ll ask you to pay later rather than handle your money, so grab a seat at one of the four odd tables and buckle up: this is a contender for Warsaw’s best burger, and you’re going to need both hands and plenty of napkins. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. AB LOKAL.BISTRO B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Lokal Bistro’s niche is elevating the burger to an art form, with chef Aleksander Baron using only locally sourced products - Polish beef and local veggies - to create some of the city’s juiciest sandwiches. The burger doused in Polish-made camembert is a standout, though be warned that these monstrous stacks are a messy affair. The venue itself, in the bustling heart Krakowskie Przedmieście, looks too chic for such sloppy servings but rest assured you won’t be the only one with a stain on your shirt. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (15-26zł). TA6UGSW Prosta Historia H-3, ul. Francuska 24, tel. (+48) 22 870 13 25, www.prostahistoria.com. Prosta Historia is almost superhero-like in its ability to hide its true identity. The swank Saska Kępa location and bistro décor - butcher block tables, carnations in mason jars, French music tinkling from the speakers - make you think a menu of salads and soups await. But crack the menu and you’ll see a selection of creative burgers you’d expect to find at a greasy spoon. The Bollywood burger arrives with curry and chutney, while the more traditional Royal burger (which has the more typical cheddar, ketchup, onion and pickles) is a revelation. Throw in the fact that Prosta makes their own buns and French fries and it’s safe to say Warsaw has a new king of the beef patty. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-49zł). PTAGBSW Burgers 56 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 57 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Na Brackiej C- 4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 22 827 02 52, www.nabrackiej.com.pl. The arri val of the swank dom mody VI TKAC shoppi ng compl ex on ul. Bracka was sure to el evate the address, and Na Brackiej j ust across the street proves the fashi onabl e i nfl uence has al ready begun. Di ners can order i ndel i cate di shes l i ke the popul ar Pol i sh pork knuckl e or hal f a roast duck wi th appl es i n a modern atmosphere ( yes, those are real Bi rch trees) that doesn’ t rel y on the usual country cabi n decor when of feri ng a cl assi c menu. Lunch mi ght be the best way to experi ence Na Bracki ej , as thei r menu changes weekl y and we snagged goose wi th caramel i zed cherri es for 16zl. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-39zł). AGSW Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the Red Hog) E-2, ul. Żelazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. The story here’s a good ‘un. In 2006 workers uncovered a secret underground eatery frequented by all the communist bad boys you’d ever think of; Mao, Lenin, Castro and Brezhnev to name a few. Unearthed were a stack of medals, manuscripts, menus and uni forms. This being capi talist Poland a plan was hatched to make a mint from resurrecting the restaurant and opening it to all. That’s the story anyhow. It’s actually claptrap, designed to fool tourists and the occasional hal f- witted magazine. Still, this place forms an intrinsic part of any commie inspired tour you may be doing of Warsaw, and a jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, pig’s trotters in aspic and Red Hog ribs (for two, of course). In the background lots of sashes, portraits and pretty young girls dressed for a May Day parade. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (26-55zł). PTAUGSW Pierrogeria B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 30, tel. (+48) 604 17 90 02, www.pierrogeria.pl. I f too many more top notch, great value places like this open in Ol d Town, the area is in serious danger of l osing i ts tourist trap moniker. This di vine li ttl e pi erogi stop keeps i t simpl e, keeps i t cheap and does so in a gorgeous setting. The tabl es all get indi vi dual lamps, and i f you can bag one by the wi ndow at l unchti me then you shoul d settl e i n for a very l ong afternoon. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucj i 2. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-25zł). TAGSW Pol ka, Magda Gessl er po prostu B- 2, ul . Świętojańska 2, tel. (+48) 22 635 35 35, www.restauracjapolka.pl. No other restaurateur dominates the Warsaw scene like Magda Gessler, and Polka is one of her Polish offerings to Warsaw’s growing band of gastronauts. Like her other ventures Polka has a fairytale design that makes use of floral prints and country clutter, and the interiors here are a fancy muddle of frou frou chambers. But it’s with good food that the name Gessler is most commonly associated with, and here there’s plenty of that to choose from. Find your usual assortment of Polish delicacies, made using the finest locally sourced produce. In added boon the prices are kind on the eye as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-66zł). PTAG Radio Café B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22 625 27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. Penetrate the curtains to enter a l egend, a venue wi th shady connections to the underground broadcasts of Radio Free Europe. Attesting to this past are photos, cuttings and sketches, as well as an ageing cli entel e all too familiar wi th the bad ol d days. You woul dn’ t define this venue as progressi ve, yet i t’s an immensel y enj oyabl e way to glimpse pre-sushi ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw Tel. +48 22 497 57 72 Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54 e-mail: [email protected] www.literatka.com.pl Restaurant Literatka is pleased to invite you for delicious dishes of traditional Polish and international cuisine. Warsaw and enj oy li vel y chat in an almost histori c atmosphere. The foods good as well, wi th central European standards that do far more than j ust keep the col d at bay. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-48zł). TAGS Restauracja Różana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel. (+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com. pl. A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn they attract return custom on account of the cooking, not the interiors. The setting might look high end but the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana recognized across the city as one of the best dinner deals around. The veal liver with onions and cherry sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till the last customer but only these guys are the real deal - i f there’s people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that doesn’t matter i f it’s midnight or daybreak. Give a quick call ahead to check. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł). PTAEXSW Słony G-4, ul. Piękna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza), tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sit-down restaurant we’ve come to expect; this time the celebrity restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar that’s a complete knockout. A glass case in the middle of the restaurant houses a variety of canapés to choose from - wouldn’t the French die to see smalec and pickles on a canapé? - and the menu is populated with small meaty dishes primarily in the 4-12zl range (can we call it Polish tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage with onion jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with one entire wall utilised for wine storage you can sip and snack your way to pure bliss. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (12-39zł). PA6GSW Strauss Restaurant B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45 (Po- lonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 34, www. strauss.pl. A classy restaurant serving Polish/Austrian cuisine inside the elegant confines of the Polonia Palace. Check their Friday night deal where 105zł buys a Polish buffet accompanied by live music. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00, 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 22:30. (36-120zł). PTAUGW U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Old Town is packed with standard places to eat, but has traditionally been something of a desert when it comes to great places to eat. Times are a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining room you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege (oh yes, best save up before coming). Veal escalopes with dill sauce and the signature duck a la Barssa (baked with apples and served with cranberries and plum sauce and accompanied by baked potatoes and beet konfiture) are just a few of the treats you can expect, and we have yet to mention the wine list. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. From November 10:00 - 23:00. (50-90zł). TAEGSW U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restaurant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names who’ve taken a seat here. The interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, it’s hard not to feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill is a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situation. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105zł). PTJAGSW 7KH2OG7RZQ6TXDUH LWFRXOGQ¶WEHWDVWLHU ZZZ]DSLHFHNHX 1 Frcia Si. · Tcl. 22 831 61 90 13 ģwičiojaęsla Si. · Tcl. 22 635 61 09 18 Frcia Si. · Tcl. 22 635 79 59 1 Podwalc Si. · Tcl. 663 564 293 64 Nowy ģwiai Si. · Tcl. 22 692 41 35 58 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 59 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Top Fish C- 3, ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. (+48) 22 556 85 60. Top Fish’s authenti ci ty smacks you in the nose as soon as you walk in - - take a ni ce l ong whi f f of the sea and then peruse the well -stocked glass cases. Top Fish caters to peopl e who like their seafood so fresh i t still has a face, and you can sel ect cuts of hali but or sturgeon to take home or have i t sli ced, cooked and served to you at one of the wai ti ng tabl es. Top Fi sh also specialises in vegetarian sel ections - though i f the fish doesn’ t bother you, you’re probabl y a pescetarian. We’re partial to two of the soups: the potato cream wi th salmon and the uni que Croatian soup that’s packed to the gills wi th seafood. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (25-40zł). TAGSW Spanish NEW Casa Pablo A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324 57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Spanish restaurants are few and far between in Warsaw, so it’s not hard to stand out i f that’s the menu you’re slinging. Yet Casa Pablo doesn’t rest on those laurels and ups the ante with creative Spanish-influenced cuisine that meant we’d heard about their duck breast burger and creamy cauli flower soup before crossing their threshol d (another notabl e entree that seafood lovers will appreciate is the scallops). That doesn’t even touch on the desserts, or the specials we’ve seen that promise free glasses of wine on occasion - - not that you’ll need any extra enticements once you’ve explored this unique menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (50-85zł). PTAUBXW Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant C-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel. (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. The steak trend in Warsaw shows no sign of losing steam as Ole adds to the stiff competition amongst flesh slingers, but with a Spanish twist. That theme is clear as soon as you step inside the small, modern restaurant which uses images of Flamenco dancers to line the mezzanine staircase. We’ve seen diners swoon while consuming the fresh tuna, and the Spanish tortilla packed with zucchini makes an ideal light lunch when you don’t want a slab of beef weighing you down. Oh, but when you do, Ole spoils diners for choice with Basque, Kobe, Galician and even Sirloin with foie gras. Ask your server what he recommends, as ours was liberal with solid recommendations. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (60-250zł). PTAGSW NEW Sol y Sombra A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48) 22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Formerly Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have kept the former’s kitschy décor as well as their consistently delicious cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is authentically Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands you soup and a main, and we can’t say enough for the gazpacho when it’s in season. The paella requires a bit of a wait, so get yourself some grilled asparagus with Serrano ham to make the time pass more enjoyably. As the third tapas bar to call this address home we’re thinking this one is a keeper. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49zł). PA6UGSW Tex-Mex Blue Cactus G-5, ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. (+48) 22 851 23 23, www.bluecactus.pl. Warsaw would be a lot poorer without the Blue Cactus, an old timer that’s every bit as good as it was on day one. Burritos and burgers are outstanding here, and traditionally washed down with jugs of margaritas. Kids are welcomed here, a negative to some a positive to others, and the terrace is a Sunday fave. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (24- 86zł). TAGSW Frida C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42 18, www.restauracjafrida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero shaped ashtrays and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this place has the lot. Service is great, flirty even, while the menu gets gongs for featuring all the right Mexican suspects. There’s a distinct lack of dynamite to the salsa, but all in all this is a decent addition to Warsaw’s Mex offerings, and a definite alternative to your more tried Nowy Świat venues. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (22-69zł). PTA6UEGS The Mexican B-3/4, ul. Zgoda 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 00 09, www.mexican.pl. Unclog your system and get your guts gargling by attending The Mexican, a venue with shocking burritos that come served under a slurry of cabbage and florid sauce. A lot of effort has been put into the venue itself, and many a passerby will be wooed by the scantily clad flamenco- inspired attire of the waitresses; If only they focused half as much attention on the food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (25-35zł). TAGSW TrudltlonuIȱ Spunlshȱsturtersȱ undȱdlshes uIǯȱGrzµbouskuȱŘȱIokǯŗŜ teIǯȱƸŚŞȱŘŘȱŚŖŚȱŝŖȱŗŗ uuuǯsoIµsombruǯpI Become a fan of Warsaw In Your Pocket on If ever there was a sign of how far Poland has come then Plac Trzech Krzyży is it - lined up like diamond ducks are top bracket boutiques, a five star hotel, and a phalanx of Jeeps parked outside designer bars. This corner of Warsaw has it all, and standing at the top of it is Dom Dochodowy (the Incomes House), a glittering example of when old meets new. Essentially a triangular faced townhouse, the original Dom Dochodowy is thought to have been constructed back in the 18th century, before being improved on by Antoni Luciński - the supervisor of King Poniatowski’s private cellar. Essentially comprised of three separate houses (one facing Ujazdowskie, another Mokotowska, and the final one staring down Trzech Krzyży), the properties served countless uses over the years, including that of distillery, playing card factory and private laboratory for one budding Harry Potter. The building survived the Warsaw Uprising, but not in particularly good shape, and for the following decades was allowed to rot slowly away. Finally, at the start of this century, work was undertaken by the Platan Group to restore the structure. The results are fantastic - decorative plaster mouldings, polychromes and historic decorations all saw the master touch, while other details to look for include a floor mosaic making use of four types of wood, iron balustrades and period- style lampposts. Check the finer details for yoursel f by spending in the Zegna and Burberry boutique inside, the Ale Gloria restaurant in the cellar, or the stretch of cafes/bars/restaurants to the side. Look for it on pl. Trzech Krzyży 3. The Incomes House ΦΝ͑͟ΘΣΫΪΓΠΨΤΜΒ͑ͦΒ ΥΖΝ͑͑ͥͩ͑ͣͣ͑ͤͣͥ͑ͦͨ͑ͩ͟͜͢ ΨΨΨ͟ΔΒΤΒΡΒΓΝΠ͟ΡΝ ΤΖΔΦΣΖΕ͑ΡΒΣΜΚΟΘͫ͑ΞΠΟ͑ΥΠ͑ΗΣΚ͑͑͞ΗΣΠΞ͑ͧΡΞ͑ ΤΒΥ͑ΒΟΕ͑ΤΦΟ͑͑͞ΒΝΝ͑ΕΒΪ U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826 79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside U Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners inside what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel. Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings and florid- faced chefs cursing over the din; eating here is like being on the set of Ramsey’s Kitchen Nightmares. The food is no nightmare, however, rather a collection of top priced game dishes and other posh alternatives. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (39-79zł). TAEGS Zapiecek C- 4, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 826 74 84, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this pierogi kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look, with pots and pans hanging from every shel f, and lots of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine. I f you don’t fancy a sit down then check their street-level take away window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (19-36zł). PTAGS Seafood Osteria F- 3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria. pl. Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, wi th a menu featuri ng fresh oysters, langousti nes, parrotfish ( yes, reall y) and some very good octopus. The modern interior i ncl udes hardwood and porthol e fi ni shes, as wel l as aquariums from whi ch Afri can fish l ook on in alarm as their coll eagues meet a sti cky end in the open ki tchen. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (59-285zł). PTAGSW 60 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 61 RESTAURANTS October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com we saw a diner apply deodorant mid-meal. But you know what you’re going to do? Put up with it, because the food is excellent. The pad Thai is the best we’ve had in Poland, and the stir-fried rice with cocktail shrimps, pork and pineapple is a steaming pile of excellence. The menu comes in two giant tomes and has plenty of curries, vegetarian dishes and noodles to hold you over until your next trip to Thailand. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (20-48zł). PAGS Sunanta C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 22 16, www.sunanta.pl. More people seem to be discovering Sunanta as our forays to snag crispy fried tofu and spicy stir-fried duck require working around the busy lunch crowd. Find a table amongst the suit-heavy patrons and dive into a menu that covers so many options (and offers many of them nice and hot) that even the pickiest groups will be pleased. The interiors are pleasant and intimate, with dark woods and bamboo bits, and smokers are shuttled outside if they require a pre-meal puff. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sat 13:00 - 22:30, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (24-81zł). PTAGS Turkish Maho Al. Krakowska 240/242 (Włochy), tel. (+48) 22 609 15 48, www.maho.com.pl. Well out in the sticks, and probably beyond the investigative talents of all but the established expat. But that’s a great shame, because what looks like a glorified kebab shop turns out to be so much more. Set in a low-level modern building - the kind you’d see in a retail park - Maho touts a modern looking design of dark, sleek woods, as well a menu that really gives a boost to the flagging reputation of Turkish food; let’s face it, the kebab shops of Warsaw have done no favours to this noble cuisine. To find such decent skewered meats is a rarity, and Maho also sideline as an exotic delicatessen. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (22-42zł). PTAUXSW The best steaks in town Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. In a country that considers ketchup spicy we’re always trepidacious when restaurants boast of any sort of heat factor. Fortunately, the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isn’t kidding when they call their habanero mango salsa “explosive.” The rest of the Tex-Mex menu also lives up to expectations, with outsized burritos few adults can finish and a cheesy Philly taco that’s so wrong it’s right. And don’t forget chicken wings for 1zł on Tuesdays. Heck we’d probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash it down with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF would blink if we did since the mixed crowd of locals and ex-pats is equally as focused on their salsa-laden plates. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-60zł). PTA6EBXSW Thai Little Thai Gallery B-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 827 44 10, www.littlethaigallery.pl. Often having a good Thai meal in Warsaw means trading atmosphere for authenticity. Thankfully you’ll have to make no such compromises at Little Thai Gallery, where the food is every bit as good as the lush surroundings. The 22zl lunch special is a steal, with soup (we liked the soy noodle with pork) tea and an entree like fresh veggie spring rolls leaving you happily stuffed. Practically any dish has the option of being ramped up to spicy hot, and the interiors will leave you as breathless as the peppers; the giant painting of a praying monk that dominates the south wall is almost as big as the restaurant itself. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (25-55zł). PTA6UGS Natara A-2, Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. (+48) 666 10 15 00, www.natara.pl. Natara has one of the strangest dining spaces we’ve encountered: five tables are squeezed into a cramped, low-ceilinged second floor that’s so stuffy Ukrainian Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Here’s a restaurant that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings this isn’t the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal, choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv was actually Polish Lwów. The emphasis is firmly on the good old days - before moustached dictators started dictating Poland’s borders - and the design is a pleas- ing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as cheesecake cooked to a secret grandparent’s recipe . QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35-89zł). PTAEGSW Vegetarian Bar Vega E-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 36c, tel. (+48) 22 35 35 400, www.vega-warszawa.pl. Vegetable koftas and samosas served in a cheerful, modest room behind Kino Femina. A godsend. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. (13-20zł). T6VGSW Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepoległości 80, tel. (+48) 22 898 01 55, www.biosfeera.com. An ultra-funky interior full of hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood finishes generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic way to prime yourself for the meatless main courses that come with names like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and expect the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an ashtray. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39zł). TA6UGSW Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 22 625 00 55. An oasis of veggie goodness in the meaty heart of this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps it simple - soup, quiches, light meals and the like - but does so very well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a steady stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just about your only veggie option this close to the city centre, we say get here while you can. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (11- 15zł). PAGS smaczneGO! B-4, ul. Wspólna 54a, tel. (+48) 603 95 35 25. SmaczneGO is disarmingly simple: lots of food for little money, all of it easily packed to go. Takeout orders outnumber the sit-down diners and the employees earn their wages hustling between the kitchen and the front counter with containers of soup and piles of goulash. There’s more vegetarian options than your average Warsaw restaurant, though our veggie burrito stretched the boundaries of what even the most liberal Mexican would consider legit (we’re pretty sure the same tomato sauce used for the lasagne is doused on top of the burrito). QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (9-16zł). PTA6GS Vietnamese Nam Sajgon C-4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 880 63 39 85. This Vietnamese gem has upgraded from its origins as a stall in the National Stadium to a two-level spot on Bracka, but the lines haven’t changed. That’s because you can’t beat the fresh spring rolls or the large vermicelli salads, which will easily provide tomorrow’s lunch too. The steaming bowls of Pho are one of the most popular options thanks to the delicious meaty broth, and the list of teas and Vietnamese coffee are equally impressive. QOpen 10:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (10-19zł). GS There’s a number of ways to survive winter in Poland, and we’ve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos to eating loads of fat and staying home. Of all the methods none however rewards as much as heading down the pub. It’s in these noble establishments you’ll find the answer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane piwo – that’s hot beer to you and me. Now it might sound rancid but give it a try. You’ll get a frothing beer served piping hot with a choice of various flavourings – cloves, cinnamon, honey, ginger and an array of fruit juices. Grzane wino – mulled wine – is equally popular at this time of year and is particularly decent when using a dry red. Couple of things a veteran will keep their eye out for; firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually a give- away that they don’t know what they’re doing behind the scenes. You most certainly don’t want your drink fried. Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass. Drinks lose their temperature fast so it’s always best to have a mug, preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly, and a gentle prod to any simpletons, remember your drink is going to be scorching hot when it arrives. Gulping it down in one is going to seriously hurt. And remember, if you’re trying this at home, never let the drink hit boiling point. That’s disaster. If you’re too scared to get creative yoursel f then you’ll find ready-to-heat mulled wine on sale in off licenses - look for Grzaniec Galicyjski. During the colder months you will find most restaurants and bars offering some form of hot alcohol and we can’t recommend them enough. Hot Beer 62 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 63 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com CAFÉS CAFÉS Blikle Café C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826 64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue, with a menu available until midnight that includes a range of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection that will have you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PTAGSW Bubbleology B-3, ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology. pl. Few things have gotten us more excited than the arrival (finally!) of bubble tea in Poland. Bubbleology is a UK chain that offers milk and fruit teas that can be mixed in any number of combinations - - just ask one of the lab coat-wearing “bubbleologists” behind the counter for their most creative recommendations; passionfruit and vanilla? Taro and kum- quat? It’s just tea and tables here, but that’s all you need to enjoy this tall, cold refreshment. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. PAGSW Cafe Baguette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 69, tel. (+48) 22 828 76 10. Confronted with Cafe Baguette’s impressive wall of loaves and pastries it’s fair to question whether you took a wrong turn on K-P and somehow ended up in a cosy Parisian boulangerie. In a city where good bread can be harder to find than happy stories Cafe Baguette is a welcome (and already popular) addition. Salads, quiches and thick sandwiches fill up their display case, while baskets of croissants and desserty goodness surround the register. The outdoor seats provide a great spot for people watching while diving into sticky pastries.QOpen 06:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun open 24hrs. TA6UGSW Cafe Próżna B-3, ul. Próżna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaw’s intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, a cracking cafe set inside a shattered building that looks ready to keel over. You’ll be lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so if there’s a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre- war photographs, Próżna comes with a pile of well-thumbed history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as good as the venue deserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW Café Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 15. This place is a great French bakery and coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread. This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but it’s worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back less than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00. PAGSW Chłodna 25 E-2, ul. Żelazna 75a (entrance from ul. Chłodna), tel. (+48) 22 620 24 13, chlodna25.blog.pl. The unofficial home of Warsaw counter-culture, and something of a community centre for wacko art types; they’re all here, from expat hacks typing up tomorrow’s copy, to drama queers committing theatre scripts to memory. Distracting them from the duty at hand are jazzy tunes, poetry slams and the occasional comedy show. Chairs of varying style and condition, board games and batty artwork all add to the atmosphere, making C25 every bit as appealing as it is curious. The only (fairly major) downside: they lost their liquor license, so you’ll be experiencing all of this while sober. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PA6GSW Coffee Karma F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking intellectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela, and the staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of ten. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PTA6GSW Costa Coffee C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 8, tel. (+48) 22 828 28 58, www.costacoffee.pl. Costa recently upgraded their digs from a less-than-inspiring (and often faintly bathroom-spelling) location on Nowy Swiat to this new, airy and arty space on Krakowskie Przedmiescie. The transition hasn’t affected the standard corporate menu of reliable coffees and pre-made sandwiches, but the atmosphere is a major upgrade and the clientele now skews decidedly younger thank to its proximity to the University. One of the best renewals of a tired brand that we’ve seen in a while. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30. PTAGS Green Caf f e Nero (G- 5), ul . Tadeusza Boj a- Żeleńskiego 2, tel. (+48) 22 118 25 20, www. greencoffee.pl. I t’s the per fect caf feinated marriage: Pol and’s popul ar Green Cof fee j oi ns forces wi th the UK-based Caf fe Nero to create thi s fi rst- of-i ts-ki nd j oint venture. In this case everyone wins - - Caf fe Nero provi des their I talian bl ends whil e Green Cof fee of fers house-made sandwi ches to the hungry PC-users that swarm the fl uf fy couches and wood sl ab tabl es. The cafe i tsel f is on Pl. Unii Lubelski ej, one stop down on the tram from the too-cool -for-school Pl. Zbawi ci ela, whi ch means you won’ t be fi ghti ng under fed hi psters for a seat. There’s still some growing pains to work out (the musi c’s too l oud, the bathroom has windows that all ow you to wave at nei ghbors from the seat) but overall i t’s a match made in espresso heaven. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6UGSW NEW Lody na Patyku ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 602 13 46 34. Poles love their ice cream, and Lody na Patyku (roughly “Ice Cream on a Stick”) takes that love affair to a more sophisticated level with a large variety of ice cream flavours and coatings that are slapped on sticks, reshaped (hearts, giant paws) and sprinkled with toppings (coconut, pistachios) that make deciding on the perfect stick a lengthy process. The first floor offers seating and the option for legitimate meals, but embrace your inner eight year old and go with an ice cream or two. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. TA6GSW NEW Loft ul. Złota 11, tel. (+48) 608 60 84 88, www. cafeloft.pl. Mixed in amongst fast food choices like KFC and Sphinx comes Loft, a welcome respite for those who don’t necessarily want a meal in the city centre that requires eating with your fingers. The space itself is fun, with bubbly lights and bright furniture mixing with wacky S&M cartoonish artwork and tableside aquariums. Lunch is your best bet, with sandwiches flying out of the kitchen for just 15zl and large salads setting you back 25zl. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PTA6UEXSW Mi ni sterstwo Kawy F- 4, ul . Marszał kowska 27/35, tel. (+48) 503 080 906, www.ministerstwo- kawy.pl. Another café at Plac Zbawi ci ela? Just when we thought i t had reached cri ti cal mass (Charl otte, Cof fee Karma and Kawiarnia Funky are all mere steps away) Ministerstwo Kawy throws open i ts doors and proves that all you trul y need for a successful cof fee shop is an espresso machine, a few chairs and reliabl e Wi -Fi. Oh, and bathrooms. Students have claimed this place as their own, and the tabl es are consistentl y fill ed wi th backpacks and hal f-eaten bowls of soup. Our favouri te spot for pulling l ong laptop sessions wi th no hassl e or hipsters. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA6UGSW NEW Moments Tasty Life ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, www. tastylife.pl. Yes, it sounds like a three-year-old named the place. Overlook it. Moments occupies a prime spot at the intersection of Nowy Swiat and Jerozolimskie inside the former stock exchange building, which means great people watching while you nibble that carrot cake (or shovel it down like us). There’s plenty of outdoor seating when the weather is right, and inside it’s sparse, modern and populated by some impressively well-made coffee drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTAUGSW Petit Appetit C- 3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22 826 44 61, www.petitappetit.pl. The sprawling street of Nowy Świat/Krakowskie Przedmieście is now bookended with boulangeries: on the northern end there’s Cafe Baguette, and on the southern Petit Appetit. This French newcomer already impresses by offering fantastic homemade crepes and fluffy omelettes along with authentic crusty bread that patrons can watch being baked via a large glass window on the kitchen. The usual pain au chocolates and creme brulees line the bakery case along with a mind- boggling array of loaves that beg to be taken on the go (in your bicycle basket no less). Our only complaint? The coffee cups lack useable handles! Yet its a price we’re willing to pay for a little taste of Paris. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. PTA6UGSW Słodki Słony G- 4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22 622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedi ngl y or- nate i nteri ors announce the arri val of one more Magda Gessl er venture, thi s one wi th a heavy emphasi s on cakes, pastri es and chocol ate. There’s guil ty pl easures apl enty i n thi s pl ace, and al l packaged i nsi de a desi gn that’s hal f Mar tha Stewar t and hal f Engl i sh countr y house. QOpen 10: 00 - 24: 00, Mon 11: 00 - 24: 00. PA6GSW Starbucks Cof fee C- 3, ul. Nowy Świat 62, tel. (+48) 71 386 19 53, www.starbucks.pl. Anti -gl o- bal i sts weep. After years of threateni ng so the agents of Satan, Starbucks, have opened shop i n Warsaw, and i n the most obvi ous l ocati on of al l - bang on Nowy Świ at. And i t’s everythi ng you’d expect - bi g, comfort- abl e, popular, and wi th very good cof fee combos to keep the peopl e comi ng over and over agai n. Al so on (A-2) Al. Sol i darności 68a, (A-2), Al. Sol i darności 82, (A-3) ul. Emi l i i Pl ater 53 and (B-4) Al. Jerozol i mski e 63. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. PAUGSW To Lubię B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coffee and apple or plum crumble at 12zł a slice (not necessarily in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment. Old/New Town should be full of places like is. ‘I like this’ is what the name means and we do. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. PTA6GS I f there’s one uni versal truth about Pol es i t’s that they l ove their dessert. What mi ght be consi dered a special treat or i ndul gence i n your country i s a standard part of the meal, a stapl e not to be l eft out. A lap past any i ce cream parl our or bakery typi call y reveals l ong lines and hefty purchases (yet still the Pol es stay impressi vel y skinny. Unfair). Evi dence of this sugary fanati cism can be found in the l ong tradi - tion of ‘chocolate l ounges,’ cafes that are devoted to the cocoa-dri ven nectar in a way you thought onl y Hansel and Gretel coul d imagine. Mount Blanc Pijalnia Czekolady i Kawy B- 4, ul. Chmielna 27/31, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 80, www.mountblanc.pl. The l one i nterl oper among the chocol ate l ounges i n Warsaw i s newcomer Mount Blanc, which boasts Belgian chocolates (140 to choose from) and desserts for those who want an international spin on their addiction. Choosing among the various truffles - some shaped like a dog’s head and corncobs - requires only the point of a finger before the gloved hand of a Mount Blanc employee snaps up your selection. An array of ice cream dishes, hot chocolate and desserts are on hand, but the go-to choice for regulars are the ganache truffles. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. The reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like they’re in a daze is because this is the mothership of chocolate cafes, ground zero for all things dark, milk and achingly sweet. Wedel is the country’s longest established chocolate manufacturer and one of the best known brands in Poland. This classy venue, featuring comfortable seating in room after room of tables, is located in what was once the factory and cafe of the Wedel business. You’ll still be able to taste the original chocolate creations of its founders which were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce a factory seal carrying his signature to combat the number of forged ‘Wedel’ products that were filling the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive in both its size and scope, covering every variety of chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTAGSW Wawel B- 3, ul. Królewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828 14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes i t sounds awful l y similar to Wedel, and their histories are equall y alike. Confecti oner Adam Pi asecki founded the company i n 1898 i n Krakow and, maki ng i t through Worl d War I I , become a recogni zabl e Pol i sh brand for sweets. Thei r Warsaw chocol ate l ounge i s l ocated on swank Krakowski e Przedmi eści e, and though i t i s nowhere near as vast as the Wedel l ounge nor as daunti ng i n menu choi ces, chocohol i cs can sti l l i ndul ge i n a ri di cul ous array of truf fl es and treats. The hot chocol ate’s i mpressi vel y di verse for the adventurous, wi th Cherry Crush and Ci nnamon I sl ands recommended for those who like to compliment their chocol ate wi th addi ti onal fl avors. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Note that openi ng hours are subj ect to change. PA6GBSW Chocolate Lounges 64 NIGHTLIFE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 65 NIGHTLIFE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Bars & Pubs Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample Poland’s national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of local beers. You’ll be offered beer ei ther in 0.3 or 0.5 litre sizes, and prices depend greatly on how swank your establishment; expect to pay 7-10zl for a large beer for the most part. Bar Tektura B- 4, ul. Poznańska 12, tel. (+48) 602 72 96 97, www.bartektura.pl. Bar Tektura appears to be nei ghbouri ng Bei rut’s more l ow-key si bl i ng: the space itsel f is the same, but the music is more subdued, the lights are brighter and the decor more architectural. Cardboard is unexpectedly used as a key design element, and customers are encouraged to scribble on the scrolls of provided paper. There’s an array of snacks and a small menu (written on cardboard of course) and bottles of Pol- ish beers to spill on your drawings. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. PAUGW Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B- 4, ul. Poznańska 12. Our favorite new addition to Warsaw’s bar scene, Beirut is pure atmosphere - the bar itsel f is made with sandbags, after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive oil -soaked hummus and falafel to pair wi th your beer. While the weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting passersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hairstyles of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUGW Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67 77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaw’s best beer served in a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big one here and you’ll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW British Bulldog Pub C-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48) 22 827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. One of the biggest anti- climaxes of 2012. Found in the venue that for many years housed the uninviting London Steak House, the British Bull- dog pub saw the place completely rebuilt, a great year round terrace added (where you can smoke) and the introduction of British and Irish beers. A good looking menu and satellite television promised some sort of choice for the English speaking expat zloty. And then the British front man leaves shortly after the re-launch and the place loses traction. Far be it for us to declare this place as lost so early as it still looks impressive and the beer is wet and the satellite connected, but it’s got a lot to do particularly in the kitchen and on the service front to get a thumbs up from us.QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAUBXW Bufet Centralny B-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. (+48) 532 74 91 60, www.bufetcentralny.pl. Houndstooth and concrete don’t sound like the recipe for Warsaw’s hippest bar, and when you throw in the view from the large patio - a hulking parking garage - it sounds even more grim. But Bufet Centralny is painfully cool, with its stark space populated by drinkers that sport at minimum 3 tattoos apiece. We can’t put our finger on exactly why they’ve become the ‘it’ bar (its definitely not the service) but weekends this place is tighter than a hipster’s jeans. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PAG Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Café) B- 4, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kultur- al na.pl. Cafe, bar and cl ub, Cafe Kul tural na i s an amazi ng space, and unmi ssabl e i f you appreci ate a venue wi th character. Decorated wi th vi nyl armchai rs, artwork and tastel ess 50s chandel i ers thi s i s a magnet for the student i ntel l i gentsi a. DJs, fi l m screeni ngs, readi ngs and assor ted ar tsy tosh regul arl y hel d. Fi nd i t i n the Pal ace of Cul ture on the Marszał kowska si de of the bui l di ng next to the theatre i n the south-east corner. QOpen 12: 00 - 24: 00, Fri , Sat 12: 00 - 04: 00. AUEGW Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 51 19, www.champions.pl. A classic sports bar filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other sporting detritus. Some 30 screens and projectors beam out action from across the world, while those wishing to exercise more than their eyes can choose from pool tables, playstations and dart machines that beep and whir during moments of particular drama. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUXW Hard Rock Cafe B- 4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. When music is on tap the crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as devoted to the strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and i t’s almost advisabl e to check yoursel f for fl eas when l eaving. Decorations aren’ t so much limi ted as virtuall y non-existent, and you won’ t find much more than bri ck walls and a coll ection of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish. But whil e i t l ooks scruf fy this has emerged as one of the best places in town, wi th of f-beat per formances enj oyed by a crowd that doesn’ t get out of bed till way after noon. Q Open Fri, Sat onl y 19:00 - 05:00 and during the week when special events are being hel d. PAUEXW Jimmy Bradley’s E- 3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. (+48) 22 654 66 56, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Ji mmy Bradl ey’s was somethi ng of a l egend on the Warsaw expat scene due i n the mai n to the l andl ord Kevi n Bradl ey a commi t- ted publi can who was often caught conducting stringent qual i ty checks wi th regul ars and vi si tors al i ke. But no more. Kevi n has gone and wi th hi m so has the heart and soul of the pl ace. I t i s sti l l an I ri sh themed bar. I t sti l l of fers the ki nd of menu you’d expect i n an I ri sh themed bar. I t sti l l has Gui nness on tap and i t sti l l shows the football on satelli te. But the reduced number of forei gn- ers (where once i t was one of the most popul ar pl aces i n town) shoul d tel l you al l you need to know about the atmosphere. Oh and a menu board outsi de i n Pol i sh of feri ng Pol i sh di shes rather gi ves the game away as wel l.QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW A thriving capital city it might be, but Warsaw still lags behind other European hotspots when it comes to hedonistic capers. There i s no area trul y set aside for nightli fe, and hailing taxis to get from Bar A to Club B is a tediously frequent occurrence. The area around pl. Pilsudskiego and pl. Teatralny has become a firm favourite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles, somewhat replacing the more established territories of Nowy Swiat, pl. Trzech Krzyzy and ul. Sienkiewicza. I f dressing to the nines is firmly out of the question then consider heading across the river to the artsy bars cropping up in the Praga district. In a worrying development many clubs have now assumed the thinking that the clothes maketh the man, and you’ll find most places now operating a velvet rope door policy to ensure only those kitted in their Saturday finery make it as far as the dance floor. Open hours listed should onl y be treated as rough approximation; in practice many bars and clubs will open way beyond the call of duty i f the need arises, but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors i f business is slow. Here are a few recommendations depending on what you are looking for. Local Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that churns out respectable vats of beer in a central location. Newcomer Srodmiejska has live music, a legit food menu and a relaxed Warsaw hipster vibe. Cheap It has to be The Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that offers Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you don’t mind herring and 5zl vodka shots explore the 24 hour zakaskas bars like Warszawska and Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa to drink like a local. Lads For Sky Sports and grub then take your pi ck from The Bri ti sh Bul l dog, Warsaw Tortilla Factory, Legends and Someplace Else. I f you’ve cl eaned up and are ready to i mpress hi t up Foksal street for cl ubs l i ke Sketch and Foksal XVI I I, whi ch boast A-l i st cl i entel e. But i f your requi rements are a l i ttl e more carnal read up on our adult section and then proceed wi sel y. Couples If you like to swill custom cocktails try newcomer Pies Czy Suka, but if you prefer your drinks in one of two colours - white or red - then try Vinoteka 13. However i f your true love is obscure beers then Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia will melt your heart. Splurge Paparazzi’s cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet, as are the drinks at the Marriott’s Panorama bar, which offers views from the 40th floor that will cost you. If you’re dressed to impress hit up Capitol for the chance to drink like a champagne-loving oligarch. Night at a glance Bar Warszawa de Luxe B- 2, Krakowski e Przedmieście 79, tel. (+48) 510 40 08 64, www. barwarszawa.pl. Bar Warszawa’s popularity has been so explosive they’ve created a satellite location, Bar Warszawa Deluxe, to handle the late-night overflow. While the original of this recipe at ul. Miodowa 2 - - which combines ridiculously cheap Polish food and booze with nerdily dressed employees - - only services customers until 04:00, the Deluxe version is open 24 hours slinging 9zl snacks like herring and 5zl vodka shots. There is truly no better hangover cure than their steaming flaczki and an unpasteurized local beer, whatever the hour. Q Open 24hrs. UGB Meta na Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 13, www.metanafoksal.pl. Decorated with old vinyl, newspaper clippings and propaganda posters this eat-on- the-run venue unites Capitalist Warsaw with the PRL pig of the past. Put simply this place is Przekąski Zakąski taken to the next level, a very high one at that. Snacks weigh in at nine złoty, and a shot of voddie at five. Also at ul. Mazowiecka 11 (B-3). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PAG Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. (+48) 796 11 00 00. When the vaunted New York Times came to Warsaw to do a story on the growing trend of old-school zakaskas bars - watering holes with cheap 4zl vodka and beer and piles of pork jelly - they headed straight for the experts at Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa, the current kings of the 24 hour Soviet-era drinking dens that have seen a resurgence lately. Whether you’re pregaming or trying to prevent a hangover Pijalnia should be a necessary stop on your night out; herring in oil, pigs feet and a mug of beer will always be a good idea. Q Open 24hrs. PUG Przekąski Zakąski B-2, ul. Ossolińskich 7 (entrance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście), tel. (+48) 22 826 79 36, www.gessler.pl. Located on the ground floor of what was once the Europejski Hotel the impossibly named Przekąski Zakąski offers round-the- clock bites to a loud line of boys and girls making their way home from the pubs and clubs. Food is consumed promptly and standing up, and traditionally topped off with a shot of vodka. Q Open 24hrs. G Warszawska F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. (+48) 600 12 12 40. If zakaskas bars are all the rage, then Warsza- wska is currently top of the heap for the see-and-be-seen set. Its location at the hipster epicenter of Pl. Zbawiciela guarantees large late night crowds; a recent Friday night saw numbers in the hundreds pouring out of the tiny bar, sipping cheap beers while lazing on the torn up tram tracks on ul. Marszałkowska. Q Open 24hrs. AGW Late Night Eats 66 NIGHTLIFE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 67 NIGHTLIFE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com JP’s Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 86 30, www.westin.pl/en. An airy hotel bar whose name is actually a reference to the bar’s designer, not the wildly popular Pope John Paul II. Light coloured furnishings come interspersed by a smattering of house plants which look on as a well-dressed yet casual crowd enjoys expertly poured premium drinks in the finest of settings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PAUGW Kafefajka C-3, ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 101, www.kafefajka. com. Duck inside Kafefajka and you’ll be rewarded with a bar that simulates a Turkish tent complete with jangly music and sweeping fabric hanging from the ceiling (and if you’re lucky, a belly dancer or two). The draw here is water pipes with unusual flavours; we’re partial to the melon, but apple-mint and banana sound intriguing. The large space and open booths are ideal for groups that like to pass the pipe and indulge in Carlsberg or Okocim for less than 10zł. Also at (C-4), ul. Nowy Świat 26/28 pav. 20. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. PAXW Klaps C- 4, ul. Nowy Świat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a). Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in the weirdness stakes. There’s dildos for beer taps and a wall of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you won’t find beer costing more than 9zł. Finding it is a challenge in itself - it’s close to the passage that connects the courtyard to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX NEW Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 4, tel. (+48) 606 45 38 01, www.konstytucja.waw.pl. Kon- stytucja Klub wants badly to be located at hip Pl. Zbawicela, and to be a legitimate destination for your next meal. It’s neither, but don’t strike it from your list just yet. The beer list alone is why we’ll be returning, with more than 30 local beers (Lwówek, Czarnków, Cormorant) and even interlopers from Ukraine and the Czech Republic to choose from. The menu card describes each in detail and even offers pictures to boot, so your choices - regardless of your blood alcohol level - will always be informed. Live music on the weekend means you won’t be drinking alone, either. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. AUEGW Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznańska 7 (entrance from ul. Wil- cza), tel. (+48) 608 64 99 41, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little place that’s not unlike popping round a mate’s house - provided your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great beers of Poland, the Czech Republic and Ukraine, including Ciechan and Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the damage caused by the megabrand beers. There’s not much more to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices, chilled out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in some board game or other. Highly recommended, even more so if you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAGW Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl. British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart boards and a cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish beer, British ales and rarely-seen spirits like Captain Morgan dark rum. This is also one of the places that has built a new indoor smoking room. To add that extra sports feel walls come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PABXW Lokal Użytkowy B-1, ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. (+48) 22 831 85 67, www.lokaluzytkowy.org. If you need a reason to visit old town then Lokal Użytkowy is it. There’s an air of theatre chic to this bar, a super venue where stripey scarves and an intellectual scowl are a must to fit in. Populated by artists and wannabes this is by no means the second-hand flea market venue you’d assume, rather a neat looking space decked with framed posters and red, swivelly seats. But the real clincher is the beer, supplied by Ciechan, practically the best Polish lager around. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:30 - 23:00 and during events. Check their website for schedule. AUEGW Lolek E-5, ul. Rokitnicka 20, tel. (+48) 22 825 62 02, www.publolek.pl. No Warsaw summer is complete without a visit to Lolek, a rotund bar in the thick of the Pole Mokotowskie Park. If the sun is on form then join the others, stretched on the grass with lager in hand while frisbee players lark around in the distance. At other times head indoors where Lolek assumes the look of a Munich beer hall: lots of good humoured drunks clanking glasses on wood bench seats. Stave off the hangover with soakage from the open grill. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 01:00. AEXW Małe Piwo F-4, ul. Oleandrów 4, tel. (+48) 510 905 592. Let the drunken masses have the popular bars around Plac Zbawiciela; we’ll take Małe Piwo any day. Sure, you practically need a shoehorn to get inside this tiny place (hence the name, which means “small beer”) but it’s well worth the wedge. Though their premises are small the beer list is vast and skews towards the obscure, with bottles from Polish breweries like Browar Na Jurze and Browar Kormoran. Dangling jars light the few tables, and a chalkboard behind the bar tells you all you need to know about what’s on offer. We’ve used more words to describe this place than they have square metres, so go see for yourself. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGW Panorama Bar & Lounge B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34, www.panoramabar.pl. Warsaw’s hi ghest bar - and indeed Poland’s - sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott with prices to match the top tier location. The views of Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and they’re no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever lighting. There’s no better place for Sleepless In Seattle seduction, or a corporate chinwag. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAUEXW Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 828 42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Not everyone’s cup of tea perhaps, but every time we come here we always think to ourselves ‘they get little wrong and a lot right.’ Serves good food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late as the bar most nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and a decent pint. And, whisper it, but you can smoke here: in fact, it is business as usual on the smoking front, as the whole place is a smoking zone, apart from two small tables at the entrance. That’s why it’s full when all around is empty. Top marks. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. PAXW Centuries of hardcore Catholicism matched with provin- cial attitudes have conspired to create an atmosphere where homosexuality is still regarded as morally incorrect by much of the population. Warsaw does however offer far more tolerance and understanding; 2010 saw several thousand people march in Warsaw in the first EuroPride event to be held in Central or Eastern Europe. That said, the local government received a petition with over 50,000 signatures demanding the parade itsel f be cancelled. In the past both the former prime minister, Jarosław Kaczyński, and his late twin, President Lech Kaczynski, stirred discontent; the latter by proclaiming homo- sexuali ty as ‘unnatural’ and the former for stating homosexuals should be banned from teaching posts. Harsh sentiments, but not nearly as malignant as the ones voi ced by LPR poli ti cian Woj ci ech Wi erzej ski, whose memorable rants reasoned ‘gays should be bludgeoned… they are all paedophiles and members of the mafia’. Yet i nroads i nto bi gotry are bei ng made. I n 2004 Poland had i ts first gay wedding (not of fi ciall y recogni zed), and the fol l owi ng year Warsaw’s publ i c transport body became the first company to officiall y acknowl edge homosexual rel ati onshi ps by gi vi ng gay empl oyees and their partners the ri ght to free transport. Al though Warsaw, as yet, offers no natural centre for the gay communi ty this can’ t be taken as a si gn of something more sinister - even the strai ght scene struggl es to boast any area that can be regarded as a true ni ghtli fe hub such as Barcel ona’s Las Ramblas. Whi l e publ i c demonstrati ons of af fecti on are at best tol erated, at worst dangerous, the ci ty of fers numerous gay fri endl y venues; whether they be the trendy Mi ędzy Nami café (C-4, ul . Bracka 20), the expat Tex-Mex favouri te the Warsaw Tor ti l l a Fac- tor y (B-4, ul . Wi l cza 46) or ful l on techno hangouts l i ke Luztro (C-4, Al . Jerozol i mski e 6). For gays i n Pol and the road ahead remai ns a l ong one, but for a countr y that sti l l l i sted homosexual i ty as a di s- ease up unti l 1991 the nati on has al ready star ted cauti ousl y edgi ng for ward. For fur ther i nfo on gay l i fe i n Pol and cl i ck to the Engl i sh-l anguage websi te www. gaygui de. net. Fantom C- 4, ul. Bracka 20a (entrance through the courtyard), tel. (+48) 22 828 54 09, www. fantomwarsaw.com. The ol dest existing gay venue i n Warsaw can be found down a dark cour tyard on Bracka occupyi ng the basement of a pre-war pal ace. Ri ng the buzzer on the ri ght hand entrance and descend the stai rs to access thei r sauna. On entry you’l l be handed a pai r of nasty fl i p-fl ops and a threadbare towel. I nsi de fi nd a bar area, and a l ong corri dor that l eads to a scummy l ooking jacuzzi, dark room and sauna. I t mi ght be murky, but thi s i s defi ni tel y the choi ce of sauna for many of the capi tal’s queers. The l eft hand entrance l eads to a more ful l y-cl othed area wi th a popul ar bar, a coupl e of ci nema screens and a l abyri nth. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 05:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PADXW Gay Warsaw Sure, it started out as a joke: In 1990 satirist Janusz Rewinski formed the Pol i sh Fri ends of Beer Party (Polska Par- ti a Pr z yjaci ol Pi wa or PPPP i n Pol i sh) to promote the country’s second most bel oved beverage duri ng t he new shi ft in government. The concept was popular enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s democratic transition after the end of communism a number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the 1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less humorous Pol i sh Economi c Program. Today l i ttl e remains of the group except for well-earned entries in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a better standard of living. Polish Friends of Beer Party polskapartianarodowa.org 68 NIGHTLIFE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 69 NIGHTLIFE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48) 22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Not your average War- saw hangout, Sheesha forgoes the mainstream dance hits favoured by the competition to bring a slice of the orient to your doorstep. The DJs play jangly rhythms as an occasional belly dancer floats past tables filled with sheesha- smoking Varsovians. The crowd, which seems to span all age groups, is reliably fun and relaxed. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PAEBXW Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64, www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic. Set in a sterile white hall the bar’s major lure is the beer, namely the best selection you’ll find in the city. There are about 130 to pick from, and these range from gourmet Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty has been directly handed down to the customer, with some bottles selling for a wincing 25zł, though you’ll find these prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one which doesn’t end until you’re exactly that. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAEGW Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle this construction looks more like a car park than bar, but don’t let that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are frequent, and frequently excellent, as are the book signings and vernissages. The location splat in the middle of Krakowskie Przedmieście means there’s no shortage of lookers to train your eyes on. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa. someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend, and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting one of the best bar menus in the city - we’re fans of the Orient Express burger - it’s easy to come for dinner and stay into the night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails (flaming Lamborghini, anyone?). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW NEW Śródmiejska B- 4, ul. Marszałkowska 66 (corner of ul. Wilcza), tel. (+48) 22 629 25 76. Srodmiejska is the kind of bar/hang out spot that we wandered past a million times before going in. Why? Because we knew we’d be hooked. Located in the middle of busy Marszalkowska, Srodmiejska has so much space that you can catch the latest local warbler in one room, nosh on their international menu in another (Asian to Indian dishes) or suck down drinks in the scattering of chairs out front. The vibe is relaxed (so relaxed, in fact, that you can expect to pay di fferent prices for the same drink…). An excellent spot to linger well into the night QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00. AEXW The Pictures Art Bar Cafe B- 4, ul. Chmielna 26, tel. (+48) 22 826 17 83, www.thepicturesbar. com. Central , shi ny and new i t i s currentl y a l i t tl e bi t hi t and mi ss here: some ni ghts i ts packed wi th cocktai l -si ppi ng trendi es, at other ti mes i t can feel l i ke doi ng sol i tar y. We l i ke i t though, not l east due to the smar t ser vi ce, craf ty cocktai l l i st, si mpl e but good and wel l pri ced food, and the ori gi nal ar t on the wal l s (no reproducti ons here). Par ti cul arl y pl easant as a cafe duri ng the day. QOpen 11: 00 - 24: 00, Fri , Sat 11: 00 - 02: 00. PAGW www.inyourpocket.com Patrick’s Irish Pub B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. (+48) 22 628 93 71, www.patrickspub.pl. A grotty bar that draws in sports fans and visiting stag parties in equal measure. The air is thick with testosterone, the bar stools are tree trunks covered in animal hides, there’s nary a peep of daylight and the toilets are still in a sorry state. All appealing for men, but ladies beware. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PAEGW Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. (+48) 22 881 83 73, www.piesczysuka.com. Pies Czy Suka (“Dog or Bitch”) is a high-end design boutique that opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The space itself is what you’d expect when design folk are in charge: touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet the imaginative drinks are they main focus, and though they don’t arrive quickly, but they do come with a free show; creating molecular foam and juicing figs takes some elbow grease, and conversations are punctuated by the loud, rhythmic thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. The recipes require the kind of precision normally reserved for brain surgery, and unexpected ingredients like dry ice and cranberry caviar can often mean your “drink” requires a spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty - try the Gin Basil Smash or Warsaw Ghetto Sour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. PAGW Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54, www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so low you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has seen minimal investment, with a design that must have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But this place has become astonishingly popular, especially with students and other sorts who look like they’ve just finished band practice. Don’t be surprised to find the party spilling outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is rife and encouraged, and it’s only fair to note this place has become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up impressionable Polish girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. AXW Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. (+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.com. This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself: artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently moving locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime and history at their former Ząbkowska location and simply brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of craft beers - along with them to ul. Jagiellońska. Sure, it feels a little weird to not stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has an actual seat attached, but we’re happy to exchange that “charm” for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AEXW Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 515 46 42 09, www.saturator.art.pl. See your social standing rocket by confessing knowledge of Saturator, a scruffy triple floored artsy hangout in the battered buildings of Praga. Do not come here if your idea of a good time is talking golf tournaments and embassy junkets. If, however, you’re the sort of person with hangover stubble and a second hand wardrobe then you’ll fit right in. Especially if you have a hat. Nights in this wacky venue are symbolic of Praga’s arthouse renaissance, and last long into the night once DJs enter and attempt to mix unmixable genres. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. AEX Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48) 22 866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the back garden here, a cool courtyard space festooned with paintings and plantlife. Good thing the rest of it isn’t bad either as the garden is closed out of season. A simple, chic design that doesn’t go overboard, a wine list which is exhaustive, knowledgeable service and an increasingly trendy location all win it points. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGW Mielżyński D-1, ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 22 636 87 09, www.mielzynski.pl. Some claim this to be Warsaw’s best wine bar, and they might well be onto something. Expert service guarantees to identi fy the wine that suits you, and the selection is utterly exhaustive. An absorbing venue, with a decent menu of light bites to compliment the drinking. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:45 - 18:00. PAUGW Vinoteka 13 & WINE BAR C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 07, www. likusconceptstore.pl. A beautiful wine bar tucked in the basement of the Concept Restaurant. Distinctly high class, the Vinoteka cellar houses wines from all corners of the globe, with drinking conducted on low leather seats scattered amid crates and casks. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PAGW Wine We know that sometimes there’s a match and you just have to see it. Where to go? Most bars with a screen will subscribe to Canal + Sport, a channel that not only has intensive coverage of the local sides, but also shows English Premiership games each Saturday and Sunday. The only downside is the droll Polish commentary rattling on in the background. If you demand Sky Sports then Warsaw has a number of decent options. All of the following also relay the American version of football. Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl. Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW SomePlace Else C- 4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www. warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Located in the Shera- ton, SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket industrial space - even during the Sunday brunch televisions did double duty showing ski races and tennis. A great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks along with an extravagant selection of drinks. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a set of screens located around the bar, beer taps on tables, a killer Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking room. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW Sport on TV Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing forest green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere. Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back the barman’s creations while taking in nightly jazz performances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW Tygmont B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22 828 34 09, www.tygmont.com.pl. Live music venues are thin on the ground in Warsaw, so the existence of Tygmont isn’t just good news, it’s great. That it proves a bit of a revelation is even better. Touting the atmosphere of a prohibition speakeasy Tygmont has a dark, smoky look, and a musical menu that extends way beyond just mainstream jazz. Be aware that disco and pop dance nights rule the roost when there isn’t a scheduled jazz show (Mondays and Tuesdays are guaranteed jazz nights), however. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PAEGW Jazz 70 NIGHTLIFE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 71 NIGHTLIFE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. This long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though discerning the various accents becomes harder with every margarita and Corona that goes missing. Once you’re inside there’s something for everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live music on weekends, a decent pint of Murphys and 10zl tacos if you’re lucky enough to show up on a Thursday. The global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting of outsiders, especially when they buy the tequila shots. Added bonus: the separate smoking room will save you a trip outside. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW Warszawa Powiśle G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel. (+48) 22 474 40 84, www.powisle.blog.pl. Set in a former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one of the hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground for those enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here are all cheap and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks tatty and torn it’s become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding their horror behind reflective specs (which explains why the neighbours want it shut down). How to find it? Walk down the platform on Powiśle Station, then hang a right down the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PAUGBW W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www. oparyabsurdu.pl. This bar could have a weird-off with fellow Praga bar Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in a draw. Both favour twinkle lights, flea market knick-knacks and crap furniture, though Absurdu has embraced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart. Absurdu is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by local bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks. A small menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis) are available to line your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PAUEXW Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48) 22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna Zna can feel as if you’re wandering through an M.C. Escher drawing. Here’s a primer: the first floor features a large smoking room and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the main floor has a bar with DJ/dance floor - we saw a keytar being played - and more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis outside should tell you this is currently one of Warsaw’s favourite places, with huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers sharing space and spilling drinks together. There’s even a respectable menu of pasta and pizza that’s available into the weekend wee hours (weekdays 1 a.m., weekends 3 a.m.) to soak up the booze. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAEXW Clubs Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is often a luxury that seem to universally run out around 10 p.m. For the speci fics of what’s on daily visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com and check out our Events Calendar, which givies you a breakdown of all the evening’s club nights with one click. 1500m2 do wynajęcia H- 3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48) 22 628 84 12, www.1500m2.com. Enormous, as in 1,500 square metres enormous, though stri ctl y speaking still very much the whispered meeting point of those In The Know. There’s pl enty of abandoned industrial space in Warsaw, and places like this are finall y utilizing i t. I t’s hard to define 1500m2, and depending on the event you’ll fi nd i t functi oni ng as ei ther a bar, club, concert venue or gall ery - sometimes all four. The interiors have seen i t all, from a Val entine’s Fetish Ball to the Prodi gy Afterparty; this warehouse styl e ‘ thing’ has hosted some of the edgi est ni ghts in town, so no wonder then some scene peopl e are touting i t as the hippest haunt in the city. A newly added restaurant called Bistro sto900 of fers a place to refuel as well. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Cl osed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Open duri ng the week when special events are bei ng hel d. Check Facebook for details. AEXW Bank Club B- 3, ul. Mazowiecka 14, tel. (+48) 22 468 85 10, www.bankclub.pl. Oh yes. A hi t from day one this is Warsaw’s latest bar and club of choi ce. We are no experts in running a club (i f we were we woul d own a chain of them) but we know that whatever that certain something is whi ch clubs have to posses to be good, then Bank has i t in abundance. Smooth sounds, tastefull y el egant decor and refreshi ngl y li ttl e ki tsch. I t i s al so a l ovel y buil di ng. Wi th a well -ai red smoki ng section and drinks at a reasonabl e pri ce i t’s not onl y for bankers, either. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat onl y 22:00 - 04:00. PAUEXW Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. (+48) 608 08 96 71, www.clubcapitol.pl. Gl obal recession you say? Nobody tol d the chaps at Capi tol, a jaw dropper of a venue whose opening confirms north Warsaw’s status as the of fi cial party part of the ci ty. Fill ed wi th post-socialist bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents of an oli garch’s deposi t box thrown i nto i mpressi ve i nteri ors. A pneumati c set of breasts shoul d be enough to guarantee femal e entry, whil e boys shoul d consi der adding an arrogant l ope to their step and some designer horses to their clothes. And the promoters haven’t been slouches either, having so far secured the appearance of several club circui t l egends. There’s no set opening hours, though i t’s safe enough to assume that i f i t’s a weekend i t’s open. Q Open Fri, Sat onl y 22:00 - 05:00. PAXW Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl. A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in Warsaw. Not because it’s anything particularly special, but because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once you’re done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this place must have been frequented by the great and not so good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEX After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to limit the activities of smokers in public places. Smoking is now completely banned on public transport including taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops, children’s playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces, sports arenas and other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible ‘No Smoking’ sign and anyone caught smoking by either the police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine. There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places. The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated and closed off from the other public areas (originally this was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m 2 , but that doesn’t seem to have been included). As many places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow for a separate room, this has automatically made them subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we have used the following symbols throughout the guide G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the premises X This place has a smoking section on the premises Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears that owners have followed one of three courses of action. Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A second group, generally those with bigger premises, have exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third group have examined the wording of the law and then driven an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the one next door. And we’re not sure if some of the bars and clubs in Kazimierz are even aware that there is a new law at all. The looseness of the wording of the new law and the apparent inability or will to police it suggest that while it will certainly reduce smoking in many public places, it will still allow it to continue in a lot of others. Choose carefully. Smoking Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their primary resource, the Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas. Un- like beer with juice (regarded as highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by both sexes and imbibed copiously. Most bartenders should be able to provide you with a couple of these Polish specialities… Krupnik – Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. You will often see it set on fire with coffee beans floating in it. Beware… Mead – This drink preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favouri te since. Distill ed from honey, the drink comes in three strengths with Poltorak (the king’s preference) being the strongest. Nalewka – Barrel aged vodka flavoured with fruits, herbs and spices. A national speciality, most Polish drinkers will push this on you at some point, and it makes a nice change from downing the straight stuff. Podpiwek – This is the Polish kvass, a light yeasty drink whi ch is wi del y availabl e though you may be mocked for ordering it. Best for the lightweights as its name translates as sub-beer. Wściekły Pies – Translated as Mad Dog, this is a shot made up of vodka, raspberry syrup, Tabasco and favoured by students and all those wishing to go home on all fours. Wiśniówka Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka, wiśniówka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry flavoured variety. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. Żołądkowa Gorzka Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of heal th an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incred- ibly palatable, it’s best enjoyed when sipped on ice. Zubrowka – One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka expor ts, Żubrówka has been produced i n Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass speci fic to the primeval Białowieża Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘ floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonl y combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ Polish Alcohol 72 NIGHTLIFE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 73 NIGHTLIFE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Dekada E-4, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 22 823 55 58, www.dekada.pl. Adventures and amorous encounters come guaranteed in this slice of Warsaw folklore, a direct result of the people found inside. Here it’s all 007 Barbie bombshells soaking up attention off expats twice their age, an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else take your chances on a dance floor that packs out most nights - the musical menu changes daily, with weekends tending to err towards disco and chart sounds. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. May be open on select Tuesdays if concerts booked. PAEX de lite club C-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.delite- club.com. Hot-pink newcomer De Lite already has a crush of visitors wedging themselves on the dance floor and around the backlit bar. A giant screen projects images on the wall of the dance floor as DJs spin, while the elite can retreat to a plush VIP area filled with couches and pillows for winding down away from the masses. And yes, that’s an umbrella in your cocktail. The quintessential club experience in Warsaw. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAXW Fabryka Trzciny ul. Otwocka 14 (Praga Północ), tel. (+48) 22 619 05 13, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Housed in a battered factory building this spot has the scummy charisma of mid-90s Berlin. Brick walls, dials and pipes have been left exposed, with leather sofas and red emergency lamps sprinkled at random intervals. Edgy artwork and experimental sounds complete the concoction. Not open daily, but you’ll usually find special events going off each weekend and this has emerged as one of the most popular haunts for private fuctions, catwalk shows and launch parties. Q Open during events only. PAUEGW Foksal XVIII C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 885 17 08 85. The star-studded summer opening was our first clue that Foksal XVIII aims to take the Warsaw club scene by storm. The interior mixes swank (chandeliers) with urban (exposed brick) with the inexplicable (cardboard animal mounts!) in this large basement space. DJs keep the dance floor - accented with a massive disco ball - packed for a crowd that is both classier and better dressed than your typical booty-shaking slopfest. So visitors should take note: To mingle with the A- list you’ll need to bring your A game. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEX Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75, www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design masterpiece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend the curving stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude, dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and that’s because of the alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW Organza B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 513 13 77 44, www.kluborganza.pl. After a 10 year streak on the Warsaw scene Organza had to close down and move, but that short hiatus has not caused it to lose its footing. The new black-and-orange bi-level space is regularly packed, and apparently no one here thinks disco is dead as the regular Wednesday “disco fever” dance parties attest. If hen parties and students don’t make you cringe then neither will Organza. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PAEX Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46 66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw, and you’ll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here, mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensuring everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes both. Regarded as Warsaw’s finest club this place, set inside a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glowing floors. This is champagne living Warsaw-style, meaning hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes way, way late. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEX NEW Room 13 Club & Lounge B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Warsaw has had the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after visiting venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands out. The interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy clouds painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms, and giant images of what Victoria’s Secret has taught us an ‘angel’ looks like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars, VIP space, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your HQ. QOpen 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAGW Utopia B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel. (+48) 22 826 58 35. Utopia has been revived after closing its old spot on Jasna, and this time its more inclusive than ever: hen parties mix with the rainbow flag set, all in the name of hip-popping, locking and twerking. A popular local favourite, Utopia has added a fall cinema that will be open Wednesday to Sunday at dusk for twilight film screenings, a rare but welcome foray into sober fun for this crowd.QOpen Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. PAXW NEW Watch Me B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22 828 34 04, www.watchmeclub.pl. If we knew the exact recipe for what makes one club door busting and the next a dead zone we’d sell it by the bucketful. And our first client would likely be Watch Me, a newcomer that hasn’t quite found its legs (or its clientele) yet. The multi-level space isn’t necessarily doing anything wrong - there’s a large dance space, capable barmen, all the neon lights you could ask for - but so far it just hasn’t caught on. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PAXW Microbreweries Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial moti f prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailor-made brewing vats, brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The beer Whether you call it “Poland is Not Yet Lost,” “Song of the Polish Le- gions of Italy” or “Dąbrowski’s Ma- zurka,” they all describe the same thing: Poland’s national anthem. Despite the various sombre titles the anthem is composed in the cheerful style of a Polish mazurka, which is lively Polish folk music that utilises a triple meter, and is played at major sporting events and national holidays. The song was originally penned by Józef Wybicki in Italy, where General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski and his troops were helping Napoleon conquer Italy at the end of the 18th century, shortly after the Third Partition of Poland effectively erased Poland from the map (hence the line ‘March, March Dąbrowski, from Italian lands to Pol- ish’ – ‘marsz, marsz Dąbrowski, z ziemi włoskiej do Polski’ in Polish). Neighbours Prussia, Russia and Austria dissolved the once-powerful empire, forcing the Poles to turn to France as an ally in regaining Polish independence. General Henryk Dąbrowski organised soldiers to fight with Napoleon against the Austrians, with the hope of pushing that fight into the homeland for a national uprising. Wybicki’s tune was created to boost the morale of those soldiers and proved to be an instant hit far beyond the front lines thanks to its uplifting lyrics, which start with this stanza: Poland has not perished yet So long as we still live What foreign force has taken from us We shall take back with the sabre. The anthem contains a reference to Napoleon with whose armies the Poles hope to ‘cross the Vistula and Warta (rivers) .... Bonaparte has shown us the roads to victory.’ Unfortunately, as with most Polish tales, things did not end well for Dąbrowski and his soldiers. The French turned out to be less than useful allies, exploiting the Polish soldiers and decimating their ranks via war and disease, effectively killing any chance of recapturing the homeland. But when Poland once again became a free nation at the end of WWI the song was revived and declared the country’s official anthem in 1926. One of the most famous performances of “Poland is Not Yet Lost” came in 1945, when famed Polish pianist Artur Rubinstein performed at the opening concert at the inau- guration of the United Nations. Upset that Poland had no delegation, Rubinstein played a loud, slow version of the anthem, repeating the final section loudly. This display of patriotism resulted in Rubinstein receiving a standing ovation. The composer Józef Wybicki called Poland’s Kashubia region home, and today diehards can visit the manor house he lived in, which is now home of the rather unusual Na- tional Anthem Museum. To hear the anthem click on the link at president.pl/en/about-poland/national-symbols National Anthem LET‘S FALL TOGETHER IN ROOM13 Mazowiecka 13 +48 22 827 60 44 info@ room13.pl www.room13.pl www.facebook.com/room13club WED-SAT: 22.13 is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy steins by wenches squeezed into peasant bodices. Our favourite is the pils, and it tastes even better when you ask for a dash of caramel to be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases rejoice, bottles, barrels even, of beer are available for takeaway. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGW BrowArmia B-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival Browarmia is by no means second best. There’s a decent design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition. More importantly the beer is top standard and all, and best imbibed on a seasonal terrace looking onto the revamped Krakowskie Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAEXW 74 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 75 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Coyote Bar & Night Club B- 3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotebar.eu. On the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is an adult entertainment establishment of the ‘girls in their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will dance for you’ variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as outrageously priced as in other similar places and we have to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped in for a quick one were sirens. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00. PAUXW Kokomo B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www. kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip bars in Warsaw, though don’t let that stop you taking advantage of the Kokomo limo service. From there on in it’s your eyes that will be doing all the work as they pinball around their sockets focusing on the troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two rooms to choose from, as well as a well-stocked drink bar serving all the concoctions necessary to complete your preview of heaven. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PAG Libido Gentleman’s Club B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel. (+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl. Newcomer Li- bido was designed with the customer in mind: the large onyx bar doubles as a runway for strippers, who sashay past gaping customers (watch your drinks!) on their way to one of three mid-bar poles. Head to the basement i f you prefer your dances more intimate, where closed-off booths let the dancers get up close and personal for 50zl. Everything from the coat check to the bathrooms is above board, a nice change for those who like their entertainment without the usual seedy undertones. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAX New Orleans Gentlemen’s Club B-3, ul. Zgoda 11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl. From Monday to Thursday you’ll find the girls kitted out in evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of the aforementioned evening dress is also an available option. At weekends you’ll find New Orleans reverting to the more standard formula, with girls tottering around in next to nothing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now added, a ‘night restaurant’ with an ‘erotic’ menu featuring oysters, lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PAXW Sofia F- 4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.klubsofia.pl. A l egend i n nineti es and noughti es Warsaw, there was a time no sel f-respecting mal e coul d l eave Warsaw wi thout having first visi ted Sofia. Those days may have gone and so i t seemed had Sofia. But i t appears not wi th the opening of this place, three years after the ori ginal cl osed, j ust down from Pl. Zbawi ci ela whi ch boasts a modern spacious club area and a host of minimall y dressed women. In the wil d days of nineti es Warsaw this was known in l ocal parlance as The Bul gar- ian Embassy. I t’ll be interesting to see i f i t li ves up to the reputation i t buil t then. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00. Cl osed Sun. PAUX What’s going on in Poland? Subscribe free to the Those who vi si ted Warsaw i n the ni neti es and around the turn of the century may have l i ngeri ng memori es of a seri ousl y mucky ci ty. Wi th an esti mated 1,500 brothels in operati on the ci ty established a reputati on as a desti nati on for hai r pal med perverts. Then al ong came the l ate Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became an one man anti -sl eaze machi ne dri ven by a zeal ous desi re to restore Warsaw’s l ost i nno- cence. Whi l e he never ful l y succeeded i n cl eansi ng Warsaw of the brothel s and the fl yers Kaczynski’s crusade had a stri ki ng i mpact. One of the resul ts of thi s campai gn i s that Warsaw now of fers a col l ecti on of seemi ngl y l egi ti mate and on the whol e, fai rl y presentabl e ‘Gentl emen’s Cl ubs. Brothel s sti l l exi st but not i n the huge numbers that they once di d. Al though there i s no speci fi c red l i ght di stri ct you’l l fi nd a smal l concentrati on of brothel s around al. Jerozol i mski e, ul. Wi l cza and ul. Nowogrodzka. They’re si mpl e enough to fi nd, j ust l ook for the fl yers pinned to car windscreens or cl ogging up the gutters. Don’ t expect Engl i sh to be spoken, and don’ t reckon on bei ng greeted by the si rens pi ctured on the aforementi oned fl yers. Now, i n the ol d days we’d use thi s poi nt to fi re some recommendati ons your way. Legal factors now make that a fool hardy path to pursue, so i nstead we advi se prospecti ve punters to vi si t the Pol i sh forums on www.i nternati onal sexgui de.com, where the message boards are al i ve wi th the l atest despatches from the frontline, as well as pics and maps from the more commi tted posters. For i ndependent gi rl s check websi tes such as www.odl oty.pl and www.sexatl as.pl, where you’ll find a choi ce of li terall y hundreds upon hundreds of fei sty Pol i sh gi rl s promi si ng a l i vel y ti me. Your thi rd choi ce i s to si mpl y put your fai th i n a taxi dri ver. More often than not thi s wi l l i nvol ve bei ng dri ven to the suburbs and to whi chever brothel i s gi vi ng the cabbi e a ki ckback. Pri ces i n these ‘hi gh end’ establ i shments will tend to start at 200zl, though don’ t be tri cked i nto buyi ng champers for the l ady unl ess you’re sure you can af ford i t. Si mil arl y, greenhorns shoul d watch thei r wal l et i n stri p cl ubs - bi l l s easi l y spi ral, even more so when the dri nks start bei ng poured. Scumbag, fl y-by-ni ght brothel s sti l l exi st; STDs are a fact of the trade, and don’ t thi nk for one j i f fy you’re beyond reproach. Do not assume ei ther that the Barbi e of your choi ce i s on the game because she enj oys rol l i ng around wi th agi ng bal di es. Pol and has an appal l i ng record where human traf fi cki ng i s concerned, and i t’s safe to assume a fai r few l adi es staf fi ng such venues have been coerced i nto thei r ‘career’. Fi nal l y, the venues l i sted here are general l y central and establ i shed but pl ease be warned that i n recent months we’ve had a report of 8,000zl bei ng spent wi l l i ngl y i n one cl ub l i sted here and another of 8,000 sterl i ng bei ng spent unwi l l i ngl y i n one whi ch i s not l i sted here. I n the second case hal f of the money was retri eved from the bank because of ‘payment i rregul ari ti es’ but be on your guard. Vice advice 76 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 77 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com HISTORY HISTORY Earl y for ti fi ed settl ements are believed to have existed in what is now the district of Brodńo as far back as the 9 th century, and while historians st r uggl e t o concl usi vel y agree as to exactl y when Warsaw was founded most appear to accept that the first recorded mention of the ci ty can be traced to 1313. Things started looking up for the ci ty i n 1413, when the ruling Dukes decided to shi ft the capital of Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next century it gathered importance as a trading point, and was incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town was expanding in both status and stature, though nothing was to prepare it for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the decision was taken to centralize parliament and move it from Kraków to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this newly-formed commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was a different creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area, secured by its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another 204 homes stood just outside this protective boundary. In total just 14,000 people lived in the newborn capital. Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw was ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that was bad you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great Northern War kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance comprising of Russia, Poland and Denmark launched the opening attack. The Swedes weren’t having any of it, and by 1702 their counter-attack had landed them at the gates of Warsaw. Over the next few years Warsaw was passed back and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining heavy economic and physical damage in the process. The war, a right epic scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and Warsaw was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward. The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly followed by Poland’s first library seven years later. This age of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772, a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying neighbours clearly hadn’t counted on Stanisław August Poniatowski, the country’s last king, and arguably her finest. It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3 rd was ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory, and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m. Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back launching ‘The Peasant Uprising’ of 1794. Led by Tadeusz Kościuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at Racławicka, but eventually superior numbers told and the rebellion ended in surrender. The following year Russia, Prussia and Austria joined together to carve what remained of Poland between them. Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi- independent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map. Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees. Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope. The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced with German uni forms. Only when Germany signed the armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jósef Piłsudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg, reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national hero witnessed the introduction of the złoty, a failed coup and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which not just guaranteed Poland’s short-term future, but Europe’s. The twenti es and thirti es saw Warsaw fl ourish i nto a confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come. September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30 th . The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived, unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned. Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didn’t. The Warsaw Pact, a military treaty between eight communist states, was signed in 1955 the same year Stalin’s parting gift to the city the Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozńan exploded like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street demonstrations against communism. The communists reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest far, far more) and a city defeated. In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were dismissed and Władysław Gomułka was appointed as Poland’s premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new protests broke out, this time in Gdańsk. Forty four died when the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to replace Gomułka as First Secretary, and he set about turning the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasn’t. Gierek had built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once more relied upon to bring the people to heel. The public was starting to get restless, but their protests needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol Wojtyła, born in Wadowice close to Kraków, was appointed Pope in 1978. Wojtyła, who had adopted the name John Paul II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when the nation gathered courage to defy the system. ‘Do not be afraid’, spoke the pontiff to the masses, ‘change the image of the land… this land’. It was a veiled message, but a clear one, and from there on the fuse was lit. In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came in the surprising shape of Lech Wałęsa, an unemployed electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look. Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21 st century. The year was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdańsk were fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the spur of the moment Wałęsa climbed a gate and addressed those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public face of Solidarność (Solidarity), a trade union that would prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside, and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice. Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had been won. This wasn’t to last – Solidarity continued to press for further reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidarity’s chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police over a million people attended his funeral. Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he wouldn’t intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept the board with Wałęsa leading from the front. The regime collapsed and in 1990 Wałęsa was elected the first president of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before. Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of this, and Poland’s rise illustrated by the decision to award it co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships. Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis. 1313: First written mention of Warsaw 1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from Czersk to Warsaw 1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from Kraków to Warsaw 1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under siege, only just about surviving 1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw two years later and installing Stanisław Leszczyński as a puppet king in 1704. 1764: Stanisław August Poniatowski is crowned King 1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time 1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadvertently prompting the second partition of Poland two years later 1795: Third Partition of Poland 1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created by Napoleon. It’s dissolved eight years later following France’s military disasters and Warsaw falls once more under Russian control. 1830: The November Uprising breaks out 1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one know as the January Uprising 1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are immediately replaced with Germans. Independence takes another three years 1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw, saving post-war Europe from communism 1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland. 1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed 1944: The peopl e of Warsaw launch the Warsaw Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance 1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades 1989: The communist regime crumbles 2004: Poland enters the European Union 2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a plane carrying President Lech Kaczyński and all on board crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katyń. Warsaw’s Historical Timeline 78 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 79 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com ESSENTIAL WARSAW Sightseeing and Warsaw don’t usually go together, and the blame for that falls on her citizens. While some cities may have been happy to wait out Nazi occupation, the Warsaw locals were having none of that. The ensuing uprising which took place in 1944 would become both the most glorious and tragic episode in the city’s history. Doomed from the outset the Warsaw Uprising enraged Hitler, and his retribution proved swift and brutal. Warsaw was to be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting western Warsaw from the map. Anything deemed of cultural importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on fire. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 90% of the city lay in total ruin. ‘I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction,’ commented a visibly moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the Polish capital. Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old Town, and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt, the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto). The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, including the striking St John’s Cathedral (B-2, ul. Świetojańska 8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens. Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl. Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Although you’ll find plenty of photographic opportunities in and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for the viewing platform at the top of St Anne’s Church (B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieśćie), and don’t leave the area without first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town. There is far more to Warsaw than i ts ol d town however, and one museum that demands to be vi si ted i s the Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). I t’s here, inside Poland’s best museum, that you’ll learn about the ci ty’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944. Packed wi th i nteracti ve di spl ays, photographs, vi deo footage and miscellaneous exhibi ts this is guaranteed to l eave a deep mark on all visi tors, and will go a l ong way in explaining why Warsaw is far from the archi tectural pearl i t once was. Al though the Nazis flattened the Jewish Ghetto af ter a heroi c upri si ng i n 1943 there are sti l l traces of Warsaw’s Jewish past, including a remaining piece of the Ghetto wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55), a memori al where the loading ramp to Treblinka once stood ( E-1, Um- schl agpl atz) as wel l as one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (D-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been unveiled, it’s course interspersed with 21 dual-language plaques at sights of specific interest. The city’s defining landmark however has to be the fearsome Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking like something you’d see in Ghostbusters the building towers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, it was completed in 1955, and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While it’s the most obvious, it’s not the only example of the Socialist Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji, to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ (ul. Nowy Swiat 6). Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaw’s Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular Łazienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanów Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ - (ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 10/16). Joanna Kortas Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl Churches Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during centuries of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland, the church still plays an important role in many people’s lives and churches reflect the importance of religion in the history of the Polish nation. Holy Cross Church (Kościół Św. Krzyża) C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Al though this serves as the church’s key draw there’s several other features of note to tempt the visi tor insi de this astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history ori gi nal l y dates from the 15th century when a smal l wooden chapel stood on the si te. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuil t in 1682, wi th the cornerstone being ceremoniousl y lai d by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobi eski. Desi gned by the royal archi tect, Jakub Bell otti, i t was compl eted in 1696 though over time woul d see numerous addi tions to i ts shape. The most notabl e of these woul d come in the fol l owi ng century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub woul d later extensi vel y refurbish the façade wi th Jan Jerzy Pl ersch adding elaborate decorati ve touches to the interior. Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please. Jesui t Church (Kości ół Jezui tów) B- 2, ul . Świętojańska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www. laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter hal f of the 17th century, who looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, the church has a few remaining original interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, not open to visitors, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Władysław IV. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please. Adventure Warsaw ul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw. com. Tours of Warsaw including the popular “off the beaten path” tour which delves into Socialism, communism and of course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. Group, private and walking tours also available from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides. City Sightseeing Warsaw, tel. (+48) 793 97 33 56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. If Warsaw needed proof that it has finally arrived as a tourist destination surely the launch of City Sightseeing is it. Tours by way of a familiar red, double-decker bus let you take in sights such as the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle, Łazienki Park and the Wybrzeże Gdańskie. Buy one ticket and hop on and off the bus as you please. See their website for tour details, routes and timetables. Q Tickets 24hr 60zł, 48hr 80zł. Eastern Station Warsaw, tel. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.easternstation.eu. Warsaw’s first bike tour company gets it right with six different 3 hour unique routes that take visitors to places that promise great photo opportunities and streets that stray from the usual Old Town tourist traps. The Wild Vistula trip gets you up close to the river that splits the city while the Cold War HQ trip will have you climbing through a three story underground Atomic Command Headquarters. Trips are by request only. Those who prefer a walking tour can meet at King Sigismund’s Column daily at 11:00 for a 2-hour wander through Old Town (free, but be sure to tip). Segway City Tours, tel. (+48) 600 31 03 20, www.segwaycitytours.pl. Consider it the next generation of Warsaw tours: visitors are propelled 10km around town on Segway Personal Transporters (helmets provided!) and shown a vast swath of the city in around 3 hours. Tours depart daily Pl. Zamkowy and cost 349zl per person and require booking in advance. The Connoisseur Tour, tel. (+48) 600 97 26 28, www.monopolpraski.pl. If you consider Warsaw synonymous with vodka, this is the tour for you. Meet at Sigismund’s Column for a chance to learn about where this nectar comes from and how its made. The tour includes sightseeing in Old Town, Praga and at the former Koneser vodka factory as well as samples of Polish vodka and appetisers. The tour lasts around 3.5 hours and can be organised in German, Italian, Russian or English at a cost of 140zl per person. Adults only. Warsaw City-Tour, tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www. city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-decker bus. The tours start from the bus stop on ul. Królewska. From September 1-15 tours run at 09:50, 11:50, 12:50, 13:50 and 15:50. From the 16th to the end of the month they run at 09:50, 11:50, 13:50 and 15:50. From October they run at 09:50, 11:50 and 13:50, while November reduces to 09:50 and 11:50. The route takes about 1.5 hours to cover and covers all the major sites in the city including Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park. Q Single journey ticket 40/34zł. One day ticket 60/54 zł. Two day ticket 80/72zł. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 children) 205zl/ day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 adults and 3 children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl single journey). One and two day tickets offer hop on/hop off option. Tours 80 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 81 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Military Cathedral (Katedra Polowa Wojska Polskiego) B-2, ul. Długa 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687 77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Comprised of both the St. Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between 1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capital’s main garrison church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat of the field bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known of Poland’s battles and uprisings. Q No visiting during mass please. Open by prior arrangement and for groups only. Alternatively view the interior through the bars or get in before the mass at 18:00. St. Anne’s Church (Kościół Św. Anny) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. St Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thought- less construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the floor of the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of an arson attack. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect Piotr Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo details. The viewing tower is one of the best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step climb. One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross you will see there. These two planks of wood became the focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see our piece on the presidential cross. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. No visiting during mass. St. Benno’s Church (Kościół Św. Benona) B-1, ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon. redemptorysci.eu. Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigis- mund III was a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support Germans living outside their home country. Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting interior dating from 1977. Q Open during mass and by prior arrangement. St. Casimir’s Church (Kościół Benedyktynek - Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl. Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to commemorate her husband’s victory over the Turkish army at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692. In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. Today it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross as tribute to those who died. Q Open by prior arrangement. St. Francis Seraph Church (Kościół stygmatów Św. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczymska 1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.francisz- kanie.pl. Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yourself by visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the flight of the Nazis. Q Open 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please. St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Bazylika Archikat- edralna Św. Jana Chrzciciela) B-2, ul. Świetojańska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Originally built in the 14th century, St. John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution of May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president) and various Mazovian knights, but its currently off-limits due to renovations. Other interesting details to look for include the covered walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added in 1620 as a security measure following a failed assassination attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the German army. A 17th century bell made by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column) can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself never rang at the cathedral, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish will come true. Q Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 15:00-17:30. No visiting during mass please. St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Nawiedzenia NMP) B-1, ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 24 73, www.przyrynek. pl. Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are you’ll find your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church of the Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the whim of a Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly stands on the site of an ancient pagan place of worship. Extensively remodelled over the centuries it was rebuilt true to its original form after WWII. Q Open half an hour before and during mass only. Monuments Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5. Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his native Poland again. Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków. His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument. Visits to Poland’s most prestigious street, Krakowskie Przedmieście, start by the Royal Castle, next to the sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular meeti ng poi nt wi th l overs and buskers al i ke we’d suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist Realist era escalator. From there head to St Anne’s a neo-classical effort that survived the war but came wi thi n a whisker of coll apse when work began on the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel project caused several landslides and it took a team of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented a way of solidi fying the soil by way of directing electric currents into it. The interiors of St Anne’s house numerous intricate details, but the real reason for visiting is the ‘ taras widokowy’, a viewing platform on top of the next door tower. Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument that honours Poland’s best loved bard. This statue was erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled at a ti me of I mperial Russian repressi on the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind is one of the Warsaw’s biggest mysteries. Everyone knows the pi nk buil di ng wi th that great bi g chunk missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built in 1784 to serve as a traveller’s inn this mysterious structure is actually student digs, as well as home to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The 17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the original examples of the classicist style to be found in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb representing the world. Next up it’s the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It passed into the hands various aristocratic families and in the 18th century became the famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789; over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000 guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski would prove to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs, and the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first. When Pol and regai ned i ndependence i n 1918 the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as home to the Pri me Mi nister and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring the architectural details he was late for his meeting with the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact – the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was rati fied within its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the communists and opposition were held here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as the official home of the Polish president. Krakowskie Przedmieście... Next door it’s the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long regarded as one of Warsaw’s most exclusive hotels. Tread through the marble lobby and you’ll learn why; etched in brass by reception you’ll find the names of dozens of celebrities who’ve stayed here, including Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130 years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaw’s first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and there’s plans afoot to develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yoursel f don’t miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at a ball held in his honour. One thing that won’t have escaped your notice at this stage is the preponderance of young people, some of them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep, you’ve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times, before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaw’s new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830 - 31 Up- rising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland, as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with Kraków’s Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim. Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers from the student body cross the street making a line for the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written about this place, so we won’t add anything other than make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally, at the end of KP, it’s Copernicus himself and his statue has also played its part in Warsaw’s recent history. ...Krakowskie Przedmieście Urbanlegend 82 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 83 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Charles de Gaulle Monu- ment (Pomnik Charlesa de Gaulle’a) C-4, Rondo de Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is the subject of one of Warsaw’s newer monuments. Stri ding away from what was once the Commie party HQ, the monument is a gift from the French government and can be found on (C-4) Rondo de Gaull e’a. A resident of Warsaw in the 1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of a hero in these parts for the role he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With Europe in turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy march to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Piłsudski launched a deft action to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went on to describe as the ‘seventh most important battle in history’. The Bol- shevik forces were decimated, and Europe saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and was awarded the highest military honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari. Cr oss- monument Pl . Piłsudskiego. Nine metres high and made of white gran- i te June 6, 2009 saw the unveiling of giant cross on pl. Piłsudskiego. It was here that Pope John Paul II returned to Warsaw for the first time after being made pope, and it was also on this spot a candlelit vigil was held when news first broke of his death. The inscription is taken from his sermon and reads: ‘Let your spirit come down and renew the face of earth, this earth’. Unveiled by Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciński and Natalia Wilczak. Ignacy Paderewski G- 4, Park Ujazdowski. Born i n Kuryłówka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remembered as a politi- can, patriot and musician. Having entered the Warsaw Conservato- rium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor after graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they married, spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887 he made his public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious and his growing popularity saw him storm both Europe and the States, not just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. With the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where, having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw Poznań merged into the newly reformed Polish state), he was elected Poland’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume his musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders in your spheres, though the spheres are very different’. Not one to miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very different, you are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays solo’. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation. Jan Kiliński Monument (Pomnik Jana Kilińskiego) B-2, ul. Podwale. A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s War- saw residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on pl. Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Co- pernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being finally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959. Józef Pi ł sudski Monu- ment (Pomni k Józef a Pi ł sudski ego) F- 2, Pl . Piłsudskiego. Casting a steely gaze over the square named in his honour is a gloomy looking Field Marshal Piłsudski, a man many Poles hold responsible for winning the country its independence in 1918. Regarded as a political and military hero this man did more than most to free Poland from the shackles of Russian control; his earl y years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully convicted of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of Warsaw, inadvertently saving a battered post-war Europe from being flooded by the rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monumen is the work of Tadeusz Łodziany, and Piłsudski fans can view another such monument to the man on ul. Belweder. King Sigismund’s Col- umn (Kolumna Króla Zygmunta) B-2, Pl. Zam- kowy. Built in honour of the man who made Warsaw the capi tal of Poland, the column was erected back in 1664 and stands twenty two metres high. During the war the column collapsed under bombardment and the original now lies close to the Royal Castle (and is considered lucky to touch). The fi gure of Si gi smund survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949. Alina Zienowicz/ Wikipedia Warszawa13/Wikipedia If you hail from the decadent west then October 31st is generally seen as a time to fit into a scary outfit before getting trollied on punch and waking up next to some right old witch. The tradition of Halloween is fast catching on in Poland - and you’ll find numerous parties scheduled for the usual expat haunts. Readers expecting a wild time of costume parties and rollicking Halloween debauchery may be shocked however to discover a rather sobering, sombre scene during the evenings of November 1 and 2. Known nationally as All Saints’ Day (Dzień Wszystkich Świętych) and All Souls’ Day (Dzień Zaduszny, or Dzień Wszystkich Zmarłych) respectively, these two days of the calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute to the deceased by visiting their graves. This is one of Poland’s most important public holidays, and only transport and emergency service staff are expected to work - don’t be surprised to find your favourite hostelry bolted shut for the night. Whole families descend on graveyards to lay wreaths and light candles for deceased family members, and prayers said at the gravestone are meant to help the souls of the dead. A Catholic tradition across many Eastern European countries, the Polish take it particularly seriously and even the graves of the unknown or forgotten are cleaned up and littered with candles. While you may not think lurking around a cemetery in the dark is the best way to spend an evening, it’s incredibly beautiful to see the cemeteries lit up by candles all night long, so wrap up warm and go have a look. While we could wax poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense candlelight, the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees, the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, we’d prefer you just experience it for yourself. Remember to take a candle along with you. To catch a glimpse of this holiday tradition visitors to Warsaw have plenty of cemeteries to choose from (see box on page 89) and don’t forget to visit the various monuments to Polish martyrdom such as the Warsaw Uprising memorial on ul. Długa. All Saint‘s Day While the name sounds like that of a soap opera character or possibly a romance novel heroine, Poland’s Rosa Luxemburg was not a fictional figure – though her story as a noted revolutionary socialist is just as dramatic. Born in the southern city of Zamość (which was then controlled by Russia) in 1871, Luxemburg was the fifth child born to a Polish Jewish family that eventually moved to the capital of Warsaw. There Luxemburg attended school and got her first taste of political activity by becoming involved in the left-wing Proletariat party, a short-lived socialist political party that was essentially dissolved after most of its members were executed or imprisoned around 1886. Luxemburg fled to Switzerland in 1889 to escape persecution for her beliefs and enrolled in Zurich University, where she met Leo Jogiches – a fellow student and the man who would be her romantic and political partner for the rest of her life. Together the duo founded the Social Democratic Party of the Kingdom of Poland and created a newspaper, Sprawa Robotnicza (The Worker’s Cause) to oppose the policies of the Polish Socialist Party. Luxemburg maintained the position that an independent Poland would only come about through socialist revolution, a position she held from across the border in Germany (by 1898 Luxemburg had married Gustav Lubeck in order to gain German citizenship and settled in Berlin). In Germany Luxemburg was an active participant in the Social Democratic Party of Germany (SPD) and accurately foresaw the upcoming war, condemning Germany’s militarization and writing analyses about Euro- pean socio-economic issues as well as speaking publicly to workers about solidarity in the event of war. Despite Luxemburg’s efforts to unite workers into a strike against war, when the Balkans erupted in 1914 there was no such strike, and the SPD itself voted to support financing the war and refraining from strikes throughout its duration. Not one to take things lying down, Luxemburg promptly organised anti-war demonstrations and earned herself a year in prison for “inciting to disobedience against the authorities’ law and order.” Shortly thereafter Luxemburg and likeminded friends, including Karl Liebknecht, founded the Spartacus League which generated anti-war leaflets and continued to encourage workers to strike against the war. Those efforts landed Luxemburg back in prison once again, this time for a 2.5 year stretch beginning in 1916. Upon her release in November 1918 Luxemburg and Liebknecht immediately regrouped the Spartacus League and created the Red Flag newspaper to continue pressing their ideas – which now included amnesty for political prisoners and an end to capital punishment. The following month saw the duo found the Communist Party of Ger- many amidst the country’s post-war revolution, though the revolution’s second wave would prove deadly for both Luxemburg and Liebknecht. While Luxemburg herself opposed the revolution’s violent grab at power, the Red Flag backed the rebels and both Luxemburg and Liebknecht were seized, questioned and summarily executed as a result. Luxemburg’s corpse was thrown into the Landwehr Canal, where it went undiscovered for four months. Despite her untimely death Luxemburg left a vast legacy of ideas and writings, with the term “Luxemburgism” even used to describe a specific revolutionary theory within Marxism that is based on her work. And while there are currently no monuments or memorials to the revolutionary in Poland, Berlin sports a U-Bahn station named in her honour (Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz) and a memorial in the city’s Tiergarten marking the spot where her body was tossed in the canal. Rosa Luxemburg 84 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 85 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Ni col aus Coper ni cus Monument (Pomni k Mikołaja Kopernika) C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. The founder of modern as- tronomy. A sheltered academic, he made his observations a century before the invention of the telescope and without help or guidance. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itsel f was built in 1830 and has seen its fair share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is currently held in Warsaw’s History Museum. Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town visitors can’t fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with sword raised aloft this noble structure is actually officially named ‘Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945’, and remembers the thousands of locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi rule. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any official memorial to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators in later years. In 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro. Syrena. The mermaid is the symbol of Warsaw, and as such you’ll find her likeness on everything from buses to beer cans. The legend dates to the time of Prince Kazimierz, who allegedly got lost while on a hunting expedition in the area that is now Warsaw. Behold, a mermaid transpired from the marshland, and gui ded the hapless prince to safety by firing burning arrows. Firmly established as an icon of Warsaw you’ll find three mermaid statues in Warsaw, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square, (D-2), Świętokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse. Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Grób Niezna- nego Żołnierza) B-3, Pl. Piłsudskiego. The only surviving part of the destroyed Saxon Palace. The palace was constructed during the 17th century though the tomb was not added to the complex until 1925. Eerily, the tomb was the only part of the structure to survive being dynamited by the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added. To those deported and murdered in the East (Pom- nik Poległym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie) E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Mura- nowska. Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia. Museums Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of museums dotted around and even older ones are getting facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century. There are still instances of poor or no English language explanations but these are becoming less common. Without doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising Museum which charts the defining period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the city’s most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaw’s best example of a modern museum experience. Most museums listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found in our culture and events section. Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muzeum Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www. muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00 (with the permanent exhibit only open until 18:00), Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month. Admission 6/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibit only. Y Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeźby i Sztuki Zdobniczej) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The east wing of the Royal Castle’s main floor is now home to a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had formerly been spread throughout the property, including two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of a major donation of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina Lanckoronska, a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp survivor who, upon Poland’s return to independence in 1989, bequeathed her family’s art collection to the nation. The Castle has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with muted walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention on the various portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette and still life paintings of flower-filled bounties. There’s also a room devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from the era. The Castle’s free admission on Sundays have seen the new gallery overrun with visitors, so serious art lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander at a less harried pace. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 10zł per person. Sun free. Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za Żelazną Bramą. History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Kościuszko’s highest ideal was freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the land. In another country - America - he succeeded, and yet has been almost completely forgotten. A monument to the man was unveiled in November 2010 in the presence of the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monument is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever the country regained its independence. The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris during which time Poland was partitioned for the first time in 1772. Kościuszko found himself attracted to the American fight for independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30. Upon arrival he read the Declaration of Independence and found himself so inspired and in concert with its ideology that he determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas Jefferson. The two men later began a lifelong friendship which became so binding that Kościuszko made Jefferson the executor of his will. Jefferson was to call Kościuszko “the purest son of liberty among you all that I have ever known, and of that liberty which is to go to all, not to the few or the rich alone.” It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kościuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British that was to become the decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. The victory at Saratoga won the northern campaign and the alliance of the French as Louis XVI officially recognised America as an independent country. Kosciuszko was then charged with forti fying West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable fortress that would later become America’s premier military academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near Columbus, Ohio, at the end of hostilities, Kościuszko found himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty. Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in Poland, Kościuszko once again returned to the military. On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth created the first constitution in modern Europe (second in the world after America), which enacted widespread reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792. Kościuszko again distinguished himsel f in battle and became regarded as Poland’s leading military strategist having never been defeated. However the neighbouring powers further reduced the power and size of Poland through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21, 1793) leaving Kościuszko to resolve that the Poles were going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain their independence. What followed came to be known as the Kościuszko Up- rising. Kościuszko, using his experience of the American war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army to victory over the Russian army at Racławice. The ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read more about the man in our feature online. Kościuszko Monument The wonder full y named Stanisław II August Pon- i atowski ( bor n Count Stanisław Antoni Poni - atowski ) was the l ast Ki ng and Grand Duke of t he Pol i sh- Li t hua- ni an Commonweal t h (1764-95). Hi s of fi ci al ti tl e was, memorabl y, Stanisław August, by the grace of God and the will of the people King of Poland, Grand Duke of Lithuania and Duke of Rutheni a, Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia, Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia and Chernihiv. Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732, Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambassador of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected king, at the age of 32. Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Pol- ish nobility, on first appearances Poniatowski’s three decades on the throne do not look all that impressive. He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of his reign on Russian patronage. Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the 1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europe’s first and the world’s second (the United States had enacted the first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen, townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was about to crumble, and the constitution came far too late to save it. Appall ed, the Polish nobili ty, under the flag of the Targowi ca Federation and allied wi th Russian nobl es keen to prevent similar i deas of equali ty infil trating into Russia, launched a full scal e war (known, somewhat incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2) on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (whi ch had until then been a keen all y), Poniatowski was defeated in 1792 and the consti tution expunged from the statue book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795 when the final parti tion of the Commonweal th forced hi m to abdi cate. He fl ed to St. Petersburg, where he li ved at the grace of Catheri ne until he di ed i n 1798. He was first buri ed at the Catholi c Church of St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being transferred to a church at Wołczyn in 1938. In 1995, in belated recogni tion of his rol e in creating the 1791 consti tution, he was formall y reburi ed at St. John’s Cathedral in Warsaw. Stanislaw Poniatowski 86 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 87 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Historical Museum of Warsaw (Muzeum His- toryczne Miasta Warszawy) B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 28- 42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl. One of our favourite museums, The Historical Museum of Warsaw has been offline for several issues now but is eas- ing into a return after months of renovations. What can you see so far? Just the main floor, which houses an excellent permanent exhibition about the history of Warsaw through the 17th century and plenty of archaeological materials to keep Indiana Jones enthused for hours. A temporary exhibi tion is also open and is dedi cated to WWII hero Janusz Korczak. One aspect not to be missed is the film “Warsaw Will Remember” in the museum’s cinema. The film addresses the war years from 1939-1945 and the rebuilding of the city. The film is shown Tue-Fri at 10:00 and 12:00, Sat and Sun at 12:00 and 14:00, and lasts 20 minutes (in French, Italian German and Spanish by request). Tickets are 10/5zł, and the entrance for the film is from Rynek Starego Miasta 40. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5zł. Królikarnia G-7, ul. Puławska 113a, tel. (+48) 22 843 15 86, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Królikarnia, which translates as “the rabbit house,” is a lavish palace in Mokotów named for its role as King Augustus II the Strong’s rabbit warren for hunting. Built between 1782 and 1786, the palace has been home to a number of interesting residents including insurrection leader Tadeusz Kościuszko and Charles Thomatis, a man many believe acted as a pimp for King Stanisław August Poniatowski. Like much of Warsaw, the palace was obliterated during the war but meticulously rebuilt in 1964 and now operates as an art museum that features the works of famed Polish sculptor and Auschwitz survivor Xawery Dunikowski on the verdant park grounds (you can keep an eye out for The Soul Escaping the Body, a sculpture that is replicated on Dunikowski’s tombstone). Visitors can end their museum visi t wi th a meal courtesy of the café whi ch prepares picnics and offers blankets for outdoor dining, a must considering its location on an escarpment overlooking the Vistula. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis- sion 8/4zł, Thu free. Mu s e u m o f I n d e p e n d e n c e ( Mu z e u m Niepodległości) B-2, Al. Solidarności 62, tel. (+48) 22 826 90 91, www.muzeumniepodleglosci. art.pl. Rather ironically, the museum that charts Poland’s struggl e for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum duri ng communi st rul e. Cel ebrati ng Polish patri otism, the museum covers all the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Pi łsudski’s return to Poland, WWII and the ri se of Soli dari ty (though thi s l ast exhi bi t i s currentl y unavai l abl e). Among the 48,000 exhi bi ts are obj ects recovered from WWII concentration camps, and some wonder ful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Mon. Last entrance 30 mi nutes before cl osi ng. Admi ssi on 6/4zł. Sun free. Y Museum of John Paul II Collection (Muzeum Kolekcji im. Jana Pawła II) A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. (+48) 22 620 27 25, www.muzeummalarstwa. pl. Thi s i s exactl y the ki nd of overl ooked museum that houses gems touri sts wi l l consi der themsel ves l ucky to stumbl e upon. I n 1986 Jani na and Zbi gni ew Carrol l - Porczynski gi fted the country wi th 400 pai nti ngs and scul ptures acqui red through years of dabbl i ng i n West- ern European art. The Carrol l -Porczynski s themsel ves are an i nteresti ng duo - she was sent to Si bera i n 1940, then matri cul ated to Rhodesi a and Engl and where she obtained several degrees whil e he was part of the Home Army and sent to Powiak Prison, Auschwi tz and Buchen- wal d before goi ng to Engl and and getti ng a PhD. Thei r coll ecti on is now housed in the histori cal Bank of Poland bui l di ng and i ncl udes a uni corn scul pture by Sal vador Dal i, a pai nti ng of Renoi r’s son Pi erre, an i dyl l i c farm scene by Van Gogh, the head of John the Bapti st by Ro- din…the mind boggl es at the list of noted artists housed here. The Bank’s soari ng rotunda i s home to over 80 sel f-portrai ts, and the first fl oor houses works of a more rel i gi ous nature. One of the most stunni ng i s Woj ci ech Gerson’s Bapti sm of Li thuani a, a massi ve pai nti ng that represents Li thuani a’s bapti sm i nto Chri sti ani ty. A l ack of surl y museum mai ds and a wel l -marked route make the JPI I museum even more enj oyabl e. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Mon. Admi ssi on 13/8zł. Y Museum of Pol i sh Peopl e’s Movement (Muzeum Historii Polskiego Ruchu Ludowego) Al. Wilanowska 204 (Mokotów), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76, www.mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa desi gned by I tal i an-born Mar y Lanci the Museum of the Polish Peopl e’s Movement is an absolute must for museum di ehards - j ust try to fi nd any other English- speaker whose been here (though recentl y the museum has added some English brochures to help non-Polish visitors). As the title suggests, everything here is focused on Polish peopl e/peasants, wi th the ol dest exhi bi t being a 17th century manuscript approved by King Jan III Sobi eski granting ser fs a tax reduction. Most of these scrolls, documents and papers will be l ost on the forei gn visi tor; making more sense are the printed materials, whi ch include el ection posters from the interwar years, as well as decrees, ration cards and purchase vouch- ers suppli ed by the occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism are particularl y well represented, and visi tors will see a number of stirring Sovi et chi c posters encouraging hard work and hi gh production. Very Social - ist Paradise indeed. Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity, and art fans will be pl eased to find a seri es of paintings depi cti ng peasants i n ful l battl e, i ncl udi ng of course Tadeusz Kościuszko doing his bi t against the Russki es. Stamps, fl ags, medal s and cari catures, they’re al l here, as well as a great li ttl e war-themed section whi ch presents bayonets, armbands worn by peasant fi ghters during WWII, first ai d ki ts and a typewri ter and printing contrapti on used in the creati on of subversi ve press. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 2/1zł. Thu free. Y Presi denti al Pal ace C- 2, ul . Krakowski e Przedmieście 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was considered the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieśćie would have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and churches that line it. Of those none are more important than the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century became famed for its banquets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over two million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first - and only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its residents none were more eccentric than General Zajączek, a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless looking maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and in 1879 Jan Matejko’s epic painting The Battle of Grunwald was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Exten- sively remodelled throughout the course of history one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring the architectural details he was late for his appointment with the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact that current president Bronisław Komorowski does not live there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace next to Łazienki Park. Presidential Palace Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Męczeństwa) G-4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www. muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha 25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the building’s original purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs. In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and for the next five years became one of the most feared addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building, currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left largely as they were. Known as ‘trams,’ Poles would be sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end. Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing story. Although the torture cells have long since been blocked off, the English language tape that the curator plays paints a vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners were subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who didn’t co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch their own families being tortured. The office where prisoners would have been ‘checked in’ also remains, complete with a faded portrait of Hitler and battered issues of Wehrmacht magazine lying around. Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister instruments can also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4zł, Sun free, ticket also admits you to Pawiak Prison (ul. Dzielna 24/26). Gestapo HQ The Citadel (Cytadela) F-1, ul. Skazańców 25 (entrance from ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie), tel. (+48) 22 839 12 68, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/ xpawilon. First off a tip. The entrance to the Citadel is on Wybrzeże Gdyńskie and is not that easy to find. Once you get there you discover a complex built in the wake of the 1830 November Insurrection, and commissioned by Tsar Nicholas I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian garrison - and as a political prison and execution ground. Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose of the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic movement within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who have passed through its gates, familiar names include national hero Józef Piłsudski, communist agitator ‘Red’ Rosa Luxembourg and Feliks Dzierżyński - the monster who would progress to become head of the Russian secret police. As well as being a supreme example of 19th century fortress architecture, the 36 hectare site has several points of interest. The labyrinth of tunnels and prison cells have been well preserved and contain numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics and firearms. Outside find a Nazi bunker dating from 1940, a symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution. It’s here on the nearby southern hillsides of the Citadel that Polish heroes like Traugutt were executed in front of a crowd of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4zł, Sun free. The Citadel 88 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 89 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Museum of Priest Jerzy Popiełuszko (Muzeum Błogosławionego Ks. Jerzego Popiełuszki) ul. Kardynała Stanisława Hozjusza 2 (Żoliborz), tel. (+48) 22 561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. You’d probably think a museum honouring a priest doesn’t sound like much fun, and indeed this place really isn’t. However, it is a very decent detour if you happen to be in the Żoliborz area, and that’s because Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popiełuszko came to national attention in the early1980s for his fierce anti-communist rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and Solidarity it wasn’t long till he ran afoul of the internal security services. In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided to get rid of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this purpose, though Popiełuszko somehow survived unscathed. Six days later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of 250,000 mourners and made headlines the world over. Today the basement of his former parish church has been turned into a museum to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the underground, banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures of the funeral are among the many items on display, as are the clothes he was wearing when he was kidnapped. Particularly poignant is a curved wall, it’s bricks inscribed with the names of martyrs ‘dealt with’ by security services between 1981 and 1989. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Donations welcome. Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu i Turystyki) ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Żoliborz), tel. (+48) 22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not long back museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with stupid hours and hawk-like curators ensuring fingers and noses were kept well away from the glass. Well here’s the new face of sightseeing, a spanking new glass building that could well have been sent down from space. Cynics might say a seven floor Olympic Centre is largely wasted on the Poles, a nation which hasn’t exactly dominated the planet in the field of sport. This place is here to prove the naysay- ers wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits testifying to Poland’s contribution to recreation. The exhibition starts off with a passing glance at Ancient Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early pioneers of games, before moving off in a more patriotic direction and leaning towards the more Polski side of things. Included are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies and memorabilia from the Warsaw Rowing Association, apparently the oldest sports organization in town. Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years, Salt Lake City etc), this is more than just a thorough look at Polish sport, it’s the final word. Film reels and sound effects complement often hilarious pictures (mustachioed supermen from bygone times triumphantly lifting dumbbells). However this is no circus sideshow, and it soon becomes clear that the Poles have a proud and distinguished history across all fields, something apparent in the Olympic Hall of Fame which features scores of medals. Heroes such as ex Man City legend Kazimierz Deyna and ski champ Adam Małysz are all celebrated, and the vast collection even has room for a kayak once used by Pope John Paul II to row around the Mazurian Lakes. QOpen 09:15 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. Sat free. National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art. pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, Warsaw’s National Museum has thankfully just reopened after a long renovation that has seen many changes including the renovation of the museum’s main courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent galleries and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European Paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s leading names in art - Chełmoński and Matejko to name a few. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10zł, entire museum 20/15zł. Family ticket: 40zł permanent exhibits, 50zł entire museum. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Last tickets sold 45 minutes before closing. Y Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Pol- skiego) C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language explanations mean you’ll need to hire an English-speaking guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can see the Transport Aircraft AN26 (or similar machines) for a 2zl fee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Sun free. Tours with audioguide 17/10zł. Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/ CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek Ujazdowski) G- 4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building with the intention of building a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now has three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. Places of interest Fotoplastikon F-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Now, you may hear some people claiming this to be the only fotoplastikon in Europe. This is clearly a lie - there’s one across the road in the Palace of Culture, for a start. Nonetheless, don’t let that stop your visit. Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement a visit here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil is a fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second half of the 19th century they’re basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) set inside a great big drum-like contraption. Presenting vivid images from across the world these groovy machines became an absolute sensation and at any onetime there were an estimated 250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its first in 1901, and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905. Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by improved camera and film technology this one continued to open for Ł az i enki Par k ( Ł a z i e n k i Królewskie) G- 4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki - krolewskie.pl. The park and palace compl ex where hal f of Warsaw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional family stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped gardens include the art-deco Chopin monument (1926), the Palace on the Island (remodelled in 1792), an old orangery and a classicist amphitheatre loosely inspired by Herculaneum. The 74 hectare site originally served as the residence of Stanisław August Poniatowski - Poland’s last monarch. In spite of sporadic damage, much of the dynami te laid by Nazi troops fail ed to destroy the buildings. Q Park open from dawn till dusk. Admission free. Mokotowskie Field (Pole Mokotowskie) E-5. Penned in by the distri cts of Mokotów, Ochota and Śródmi eści e thi s park represents pri me real estate, and ri ght now much of the land is subj ect to sky-hi gh bods from nasty real estate devel opers. Hands of f we say, and not j ust because drinking in Pol e Mokotowski e’s countl ess bars i s one of the hi ghli ghts of summer. Prior to WWII i t was used as a mili tary parade ground, and then from 1910 as one of Europe’s first airports. I t was here that the Polish aviators Żwirko and Wigura began many of their aerial adventures, and by 1921 passenger fli ghts linking Warsaw wi th Paris (via Prague and Strasbourg) were commonplace. The opening of Okęcie Airport in 1933 sounded the death knell for the airport, and today i t serves as a popular summer spot for suburbani tes, as well the venue for publi c events such as the annual Earth Festi val. Saski Park (Ogród Saski) B-2/3, between ul. Marszałkowska and ul. Królewska. Opened to the publ i c i n 1727 Saski Park ranks as one of the ol dest publ i c parks i n the worl d, and was ori gi nal l y desi gned i n a ‘French styl e’, before bei ng changed to fol l ow Engl i sh aestheti cs i n the 19th centur y. Ori gi nal l y par t of the Saski Pal ace compl ex the park’s hi ghl i ghts i ncl ude a sundi al dati ng from 1863 and the Tomb of the Unknown Sol di er (the onl y survi vi ng part of the Pal ace). Al though wrecked by Nazi mi screants i n 1944 many of trees i n the park survi ved, and i t’s possi bl e to fi nd ones dati ng from a quarter of a mi l l enni um ago. An empi re styl e fountai n desi gned by Marconi i n 1855 stands cl ose to the bottom corner of the park, and other poi nts of i nterest i ncl ude a memori al honouri ng Warsaw resi dents ki l l ed duri ng WWI I, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński, the ci ty’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII who was later to become another statistic of Dachau concentrati on camp. Ujazdowski Park G-4. Not as grand as the nearby Łazienki, it’s still a pleasant place to walk the dog and get up to other typical Sunday pastimes. It stands under the imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was rebuilt in the 1970s. Parks Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Młynarska 54/56/58. Designed by Szymon Bogumił Zug in 1792 this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of countless movers and shakers. Those interred include Samuel Bogumił Linde - author of Poland’s first dictionary - and Poland’s version of the Willie Wonka family: the Wedel’s. Highlights include a cast iron chapel dating from 1821. Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. Żytnia 42, tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the remains of writer Stefan Żeromski, this cemetery is also the resting place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold aged six months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style inscrip- tions on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for one of Warsaw’s most famed industrialists. Q Open in October from 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. From November 08:00 till dusk; Sat, Sun from 09:00 till dusk. Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz Żołnierzy Włoskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally established in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of 868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a further 1,415 killed during the course of WWII. Maintained by the Italian Embassy the cemetery features an entry gate complete with legionnaire shields, and a central avenue leading to a grandiose monument. Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny Północny) ul. Wóycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48) 22 834 48 08. One of Europe’s largest cemeteries, and a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casualties, and the bodies of those killed in Poland’s biggest air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the city limits. Q Open from 08:00 till dusk. Powązki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz Powązki) D-1, ul. Powązkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22 838 55 25. Warsaw’s biggest, oldest and most beautiful cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold Staff, aviators Żwirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize winner Władysław Reymont. It also contains the ‘grave’ of Stefan Starzyński, the mayor of Warsaw at the time of the German invasion. His body was never recovered after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed during the Uprising. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum Żołnierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. Żwirki i Wigury 10. Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way from the airport. The towering monument features some interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads ‘To the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland 1944-1945’. Mass graves containing the remains of 20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial. Warsaw Upri si ng Cemetery (Cmentarz Powstańców Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176 (Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the ‘44 Uprising are buried here, their resting places marked with wood graves and red and white sashes. Cemeteries 90 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 91 WHAT TO SEE October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com the public, and during the war apparently served as a contact point for the Polish underground. Its role as a meeting point for academics and intellectuals continued well into communism, and today this family run operation allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw and other global landmarks in their pre-war glory. The show lasts 20 minutes and comes highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sun free. Invisible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www. niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibition you can’t see? That’s the idea behind Niedwidzialna Wystawa (“The Invisible Exhibition”), which takes visitors into the world of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours (which we recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting) are helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with several stations that help get you acclimated to the challenges blind people face daily. You’ll get to tap on a Braille typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing a blindfold. Once you’re sufficiently awed by your inability to do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into the main portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that force you to rely on your other senses to get by (we’re not kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). You’ll visit an art gallery, a bar and take a walk ‘outside’ while the guides ask questions about what you’re encountering - you’ll be listening for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street, or feeling a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you bring along change the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 21-25/16-22zł, family ticket 57-66zł. Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Turysty- ki) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all the necessary guides and maps you might need including In Your Pockets. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Tu- rystyki) A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa Centralna Train Station), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Tourism information along with plenty of brochures and maps to get new arrivals at Centralna oriented to the city found inside the Service Point in the main hall. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Turysty- ki) B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www. warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station on the Złote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross over the road you’ll see it). Inside you can choose from a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Tu- rystyki) B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a, tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Tourist information Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum (Muzeum - Miejsce Pamięci Palmiry) Palmiry, tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This brand new and highly recommended museum in the forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruction in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate mass executions performed by German soldiers against 1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and cultural figures. Inside this well-organized modern block visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for training and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned their refuge into a killing field. Information boards clearly explain what happened in the forest (these are some of the best English translations we’ve seen) and displays include exhumed items like documents and photos, even sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their bark. A video re-enacts how German soldiers systematically marched civilians to their deaths, and the tour ends with an endless audio loop that reads the names of the victims. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery of marked and unmarked crosses (the museum also describes the exhumation process that took place in the forest) dedicated to the victims. While the museum is mainly dedicated to what happened in the forests during World War II it also makes note of the fact that Poles have taken to these woods during the Kosciuszko Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and the January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum from Warsaw involves a subway trip that connects to a slightly stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride on the 800 bus, which only runs Saturday and Sunday. During the week catch the PKS bus from Warszawa Dw. Gdanski at 09:00 or 09:30. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Guided tours in English are 100zl, please book in advance. Palmiry Multimedia Fountain Park (Multimedialny Park Fontann) B-1, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej. This new tourist attraction was opened in May 2011 as part of the city of Warsaw’s ongoing attempt to increase the city’s number of cultural and tourist attractions and has been met with widespread acclaim and approval. Located in the Podzamcze district a short walk to the north of the old town, the Multimedia Fountain Park as it is known is a visual delight combining music, light and, as the name suggests, fountains. Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain is part of a plan to revitalize this central Warsaw district by attracting visitors from the tourist trail close by and cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367 nozzles which are capable of firing water 800 cubic metres of water 25m into the air over the rebuilt, 3,000 square metre pond, the stunning visual show is provided by the synchronisation of 295 LED RGB lights combined with a laser projector with the fountain. Shows last about 30 minutes and include sets where the fountains are lit in a myriad of colours or where lasers create visual effects such as the Warsaw symbol of Syrena (the Mermaid) moving through the water. By far the most impressive part of the show is where a series of films and images are projected onto a wall of water created by the spray from the fountains. You’ll see films following themes such as Chopin’s Warsaw, Modern Warsaw or Legends of Warsaw projected with remarkable clarity onto this wall of water while pieces of music ranging from Chopin to Lady Gaga blast from the surrounding speakers. The shows have proved so popular that visitors are warned to take up a position as early as possible on the banked viewing terraces in order to get the best views and early demand resulted in the number of shows being increased to satisfy the large numbers of locals and foreign tourists wanting to experience the show. We thoroughly recommend it and why it is hardly the Bellagio show from Vegas it is definitely an enjoyable way to spend time after dining in the old town or as a starting point to the evening ahead. Saski Palace. One piece of lost Warsaw that is set to rise again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II sired 12 children by different women, while his successor managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal to his wife in the process. Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek- krolewski.pl. More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Józef Poniatowski have recently been opened to the public, though unfortunately none of the accompany descriptions are in English. The rooms are still a worthwhile part of the tour, if for no other reason than to see the Prince’s surprisingly cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paintings. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According to l egend her appearance si gnals imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Koścuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great As- sembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to the Praga district instead. For those interested in the Castle’s reconstruction the basement exhibition “From Destruction to Reconstruction” details the building’s resurrection after World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble. Note that this exhibition is free, so those not willing to spring for a ticket for the entire tour can still visit this section of the Castle. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 22/15zł, family ticket 14zł per person. Sun free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl, family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free. Guides in English 110zł, audioguides 17/12zł. Y Royal Castle 92 WHAT TO SEE Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 93 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com PKIN Follow POLANDIYP on Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) (Pałac Kultury i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Don’t let the name fool you - this is not the cultural hub of Warsaw. That said, however long you’re in the city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet Warsaw. For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldn’t miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231 metres into the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland, in spite of recent competition from its highrise neighbours. Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the structure actually takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, believe it or not, was specifically designed to include influences from all of Poland’s architectural styles. Stalin had sent a secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building and American construction methods, though the outbreak of WWII meant that it wasn’t until 1952 that his architects were able to commence putting their knowledge into practice. Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the design and set about making the building into one of the most notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction, though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin never lived to see his pet project completed. Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations to the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Piłsudskiego, the palace was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from 30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s orders architects travelled around Poland’s key cultural sights, from Wawel to Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions, hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs. Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri Gagarin, Marie Skłodowska-Curie (a famous communist sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - it’s easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening devices. Several conference rooms still hold original translator booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding 2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though through the years it became better known as a concert venue - hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and the Chippendales in 2006. Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is not a lot to see, unless you’re into conference facilities, so visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor. To get there you’ll need to buy a ticket for 20zł, after which you’ll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since the building opened. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission for the viewing level is 20/15zł. Group ticket for more than 10 people 12zł per person. Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B- 4, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www. muzeum-techniki.waw.pl. A vast collection dedicated to the history of everything technological inside the equally enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this museum is only missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms are scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be a contemptuous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights include a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes, a room packed wi th 19th century musical boxes, historical cars like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and a small exhibition celebrating space exploration that could do with some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, this museum guarantees that you won’t learn a thing no matter how hard you try, but it’s a strangely rewarding experience that really has to be seen to be believed. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/8zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Guided tours for up to 25 people 50zł. failed to find any undetonated devices, builders have since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that many of the treasures recovered have since corroded after being incorrectly stored. For the time being work appears to have stopped completely, with even the fences taken down - when it’ll resume is anyone’s guess, though we could be in for a bit of a wait. The Eastern Wall. Reeling from near total annihilation the post-war years saw Warsaw emerge as Europe’s bi ggest brickyard as it struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes. Initially the buzzword for archi tects in the regi on was Socialist Realism, a severe styl e foll owing stri ct guidelines from a Soviet master- plan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration, a disastrous move that saw all manner of brutalist monstrosi- ties rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw is fierce, but probably nastiest of the lot is the development dubbed ‘the Eastern Wall’ (Ściana Wschodnia), a collection of buildings and tower block running from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to ul. Świętokrzyska (B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiński - the guy who also designed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul. Piękna - won the competition to rebuild the area and set about remodelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous glee of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962 and was completed seven years later, the result being four department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a blockish office building behind it, a cinema, and even a nightclub. Towering over it all were three residential blocks situated on Świętokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda (87 metres) and Chmielna (81 metres). Originally hailed a work of genius the Eastern Wall soon became a bit of a rusty elephant, crippled and blackened with age and neglect. The collapse of communism breathed new life into the complex - Poland’s first McDon- ald’s was opened at the Świętokrzyska end of the complex, while the office block behind the Rotunda temporarily held the title for having the largest billboard in the world. More recently steps have been taken to polish up the area with shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. But snoop behind the area around McD’s and you’ll find a glorious blast to the past, with smashed pavements, useless bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz coffee to hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fistful. Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Un- known soldier was added to the series of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins. WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the blasts. But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city of Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million złoty cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have been awarded the tender to undertake the work and the façade, thanks to blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, will look just like it did in 1939. It’s not known what will occupy the space, with ideas ranging from a Museum of Polish His- tory to an institute dedicated to the thoughts of Pope John Paul II. Completion was originally set for 2010, though so far building work has not entirely gone to plan. Although sappers Ronald Reagan Monu- ment (Pomnik Ron- alda Reagana) C- 4, Al. Ujazdowskie. A large bronze statue of U.S. Presi- dent Ronald Reagan now calls Warsaw home after an unveiling in November 2011 that included former Polish President and Soli- darity leader Lech Wałęsa. The large 3.5-metre monument portrays Reagan, who was the 40th president of the United States and held of fi ce from 1981-1989, when he stood at a podium at Berlin’s Brandenburg gate and declared, “Mr. Gor- bachev, tear down this wall,” back in 1987. So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the Gipper? In Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th century’s most important leaders thanks to his long- standing opposition to communism. During Reagan’s Christmas address in 1981 he cited the persecution of the Solidarity trade union by the country’s communist government as evidence that the regime was waging “war against i ts own people.” That holiday season candles were put in the windows of the White House to show Reagan’s support of the Solidarity movement and the Polish people. Reagan’s continued poli cy of vi gorousl y promoting democracy and condemning communism is credited as hastening the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and along with Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter of Wałęsa’s campaign for presidency in 1990. During the unveiling ceremony Wałęsa noted his belief that without Reagan Poland wouldn’t be a free nation today. The statue, which was created by Polish sculptor Władysław Dudek, can be found across the street from the United States embassy. Ronald Reagan Monument Courtesy of U.S. Embassy in Warsaw Kescior/Wikipedia 94 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 95 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw uprising of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paintings of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else, it’s a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour or two of nun spotting. When US General Dwi ght Ei senhower vi si ted Warsaw immediately after the war he was moved to comment, “I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” Buri ed under twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled a shattered shell; over hal f the population had been killed, and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Ol d Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable expense of Poland’s ‘recovered territories’. Szczecin, for instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic buildings in order to ‘donate’ an estimated 27 million bricks to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocław, which at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks to Warsaw per day; ‘He who loves Wrocław, loves Warsaw as well’ pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although it’s barely hal f a century old Warsaw’s historic quarter is an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city that refused to die. Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2), and i f you’re Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt. There isn’t a more popular meeting spot in the city, and there’s not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating couples or banjo playing irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt III’s son, Władysław IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla, and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Poland’s second oldest monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun Fountain in Gdańsk. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence that was first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that can’t be disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949. The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of the Royal Castle. Moving forward head down Świętojańska to run a gaunt- let of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys. Somewhere amid the melee you’ll spot the Cathedral (see Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains stunning works of art, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so it’s no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right next door, a super renaissance building described in detail in our Churches section. It’s hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you was just a skeletal set of ruins, but that’s exactly what it was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where some black and white photographs show aerial views of the war time devastation. The Old Town’s subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna, or Beer Street as it translates. Although there’s no evidence of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always been linked with theological and political dissent, and this was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and don’t miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod Gołębiami (under the pigeons) and housing a restaurant called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around the post-war debris. OLD TOWN Back outside take stock of one of Poland’s finest town squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Instead, today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. You’re also liable to run into a platoon of street artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked little man who plays one of Europe’s last music boxes with a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed to the world. Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki. Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, it’s also where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring east- ward on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia. From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River Wisła. Known as Gnojna Góra (Compost Hill), this small knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesn’t work, we’ve tried. Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard, this small little square features a cracked cathedral bell (that promises good luck i f you touch the top and circle it) as well as what is touted as the world’s narrowest house at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home being constructed in the crack between 22 Chłodna St. and 74 Żelazna St. that measures just 72 cm at its smallest point may just top it). Close by note the covered walkway linking the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski, found himsel f skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy note, consider your tour at an end. OLD TOWN Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was formerly home to a small square used primarily for executions. Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other ne’er do wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliński (see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to that Uprising, Tadeusz Kościuszko (the same lad who would fight with distinction in the American War of Independence, and would later have Australia’s highest peak named after him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the street running at a 90 degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s original Jewish Quarter back in medieval times. Directly behind the wall, and onto Podwale, you’ll find one of Warsaw’s most photographed landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and it’s not rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups on their day out to the capital. Foll ow Podwal e as i t curves northwards, and i f you’re feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage it’s fair to say you’ll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig, so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes who’ll try and lead you to their executioners block to have your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of the interior are available, and well worth the look if you don’t have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and expose these ancient walls. It’s at this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaw’s best ice cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square (Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it can’t fail to leave you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways to squander your money - tourist junk stores and crappy restaurants populated with stuffed animals come to mind. One place that is worth popping into, even if it’s just to steal the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this place into Warsaw’s top winery. Today the restaurant is in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Close by is the Historical Museum of Warsaw, which has been closed for renovations but reopens in May – be one of the first to see this excellent museum’s overhaul. 96 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 97 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com PRAGA PRAGA Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly apt. Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the city’s artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you can say you saw the evolution in progress. In practice and geographically Praga has always been set apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence (at least on paper). Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794, which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Fol- lowing the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as devastated as Warsaw proper (which isn’t really saying much if you’ve seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again, arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula, famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the Warsaw Uprising. Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool, especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive beer selection. Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Ag- nieszki Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców). Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos in what would turn out to be one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in Praga Południe, a more modern section of Praga (note the surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands around the corner from her monument. Bears C-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarności), tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over 400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos, safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are called Tatra and Turnia. Buildings. Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet- scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish elementary school and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. The Praska Informacja Turystyczna (Praga Tourist Information) offers a brochure about the building’s history that is unfortunately only in Polish, however the staff is happy to interpret. Kapela Podwórkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul. Floriańska and ul. Kłopotowskiego. The tradition of cloth- capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwórkowa (The Courtyard Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel. 7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1 and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side of the brass drum); that’s the signal for hidden speakers to burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did not always result in a song being played. Kości us z kowców Monument (Pomni k Kościuszkowców) G-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisła river several times without success, in a bid to support the 1944 Uprising. Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew Św. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarności 52, tel. (+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869 to a design by Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was originally built for the large congregation of Russians living around Jagiellońska as well as people arriving from the East at the nearby Wileńska train station. Now belonging to the independent Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in the 1920s, it’s easily the best-smelling church in Praga thanks to the heavy burning of rich incense. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Różycki Bazaar (Bazar Różyckiego) H-1, ul. Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarro- zyckiego.pl. Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the rambling Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, but nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy mother-of-the-bride gowns. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni) G-1, Pl. Wileński. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died during the ‘liberation’ of Warsaw, this monument has been removed due to the construction of a new Metro station and will spend some time being restored before relocating 80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileński (towards ul. Cyryla i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII, the rusting edi fice is the city’s least loved memorial and is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in 1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and then demolished the city. Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral (Katedra Św. Michała Archanioła i Św. Floriana) G- 1, ul. Floriańska 3, tel. (+48) 22 619 09 60, www.katedra- floriana.home.pl/cms/. This giant gothic cathedral viewable from across the Vi stul a i n Warsaw proper was built in reaction to the building of an Orthodox Church and a number of other structures on the Tsar’s orders in the latter half of the 19th century. A certain Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction of a huge new Catholic church, which was consecrated in 1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now almost exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre steeples, the church, which includes a photograph of what remained of it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has a rather plain interior though the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if you’re in the area. Q Open by prior arrangement. Ząbkowska. Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame houses, Ząbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard, with Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is synonymous with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries. Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 5,000 species call it home and that includes all the biggies you’d expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/13zł. Children under 3 years free. Where to drink Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife. Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22. See Nightlife. Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22. See Nightlife. W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6. See Nightlife. Where to eat DeCoteria H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 16. See Restaurants. By Public Transport: From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well. By taxi: You can also take a taxi which should cost around 20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your journey may be longer during rush hours. Getting there Praga Tourist Information (Praska Informacja Turystyczna) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48) 22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Info on the local area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as an application for smartphones that offers a tour of Praga in English. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tourist information 98 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 99 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com against them, the Poles continued the fight on two fronts, with segments of Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio to let the outside world know that Warsaw was still Polish. However the human cost was starting to mount; the merci- less bombardment had claimed the lives of over 50,000 Varsovians, the Royal Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of food, power and water had reached critical levels. With Allied aid not forthcoming, and a humanitarian disaster looming large, the capital finally raised the white flag on September 28th. To bring the Polish heroics into perspective, Paris, defended by the largest standing army in the world, took just nine days to fall. Occupation Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadn’t been ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just what a nutcase this man really was. “The Fuhrer’s verdict on the Poles is damning,” wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitler’s stopover. “More like animals than human beings, completely primitive, stupid and amorphous.” Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert chess player and fanatical Nazi: “If I had to put up a poster for every seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not be sufficient to manufacture the paper,” he is said to have bragged. His rule was textbook despot, both brutal and bloody, and it was under his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer was appointed governor of Warsaw, a post he would hold right until 1945. Fischer was more bureaucrat than butcher, yet nonetheless it was under his authority that Warsaw became a city of blood. The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger- mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and it’s estimated that a quarter of the population were only saved from starvation by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing, and street roundups and public executions became a daily occurrence. This wasn’t so much a city under occupation as a city under tyranny. WARSAW UPRISING August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in- exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of Warsaw’s history was about to be written. Outbreak of War At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were fired from Ger- man gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known as the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The object of the aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombardment, inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six years and cost 55 million lives. Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bombers swooped on the capital in what can only be described as one of the world’s first ever terror bombings - hospitals, schools and market places were all deemed legitimate targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota was fended off, with the German’s losing 80 tanks from an attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected, and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders. Warsaw’s fate, and indeed Poland’s, was sealed days later on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded from the east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked Insurgents charge into battle Into captivity WARSAW UPRISING The Uprising With such a malignant machine in force it’s little surprise Poland gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide military assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising was possibl e, yet nothing seemed cl ear cut. Fischer’s appeal s for 100,000 Pol es to present themsel ves to work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broadcasts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announce- ment declaring, “People of the capital! To arms! Strike at the Germans! May your million strong population become a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders and win freedom.” Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that German military despatches on the afternoon of August 1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau ist kalm.” Warsaw was anything but. On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm si gnall ed W-Hour ( Wybuch standing for outbreak), the precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained several concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More worryingly, several objectives had been met with disaster - the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming for “No prisoners to be taken,” and “Every inhabitant to be shot.” Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields was quickly introduced. The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000 women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic sel f-assurance. Air drops were vital i f the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate - one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed, rested on the Russians. After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made the assault was called off. For the Russians, this single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s old town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour. Six hundred millimetre shells were landing on the centre every eight minutes, and casualties were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early September, though it wasn’t till the end of the month - by which time all hope had been exhausted - that they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich. “The battle is finished,” wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin. “From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new Poland will arise - free.” Luftwaffe v Warsaw 100 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 101 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com WARSAW UPRISING Aftermath Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity, defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to raze Warsaw could finally be realized. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. “No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were numbered according to their importance to Polish culture before being dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was spared the iconoclasm, not even trees. “I have seen many towns destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war, “But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” Modern studi es esti mate the cost of damage at around fi fty four bi l l i on dol l ars. I n human terms Pol and l ost much more. Wi th the Upri si ng di ed a gol den generati on, the very foundati on a new post-war Pol and coul d bui l d on. Those veterans who sur vi ved were treated wi th suspi ci on and disdai n by the newl y i nstall ed communist government, others were persecuted for percei ved wester n sympat hi es. Post- war Sovi et show t ri al s convi cted 13 l eaders of the Upri si ng for anti -Sovi et acti ons, and thereafter the Upri si ng was condemned as a fol l y to serve the bourgeoi s ends of the Pol i sh government-i n-exi l e. Today, fi nal l y, the event that has come to defi ne the spi ri t of Warsaw, has been awarded the recogni ti on i t deserves. ‘Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the Uprising remained in people’s hearts and souls. It was passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the Rising. You did not die in vain.’ Lech Walesa, 1994 Berling Statue H-3, Wał Miedzeszyński. Zygmunt Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz his white marble monument frequentl y falls foul of the vandals, and it’s not uncommon to see Berling’s hands daubed with blood red paint. That’s on account of Berling’s associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little more than a puppet wing of Stalin’s forces, and Berling’s perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still rankles a great many Poles. Bielański Bank B-2, ul. Bielańska 10. Few remnants of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking shell on ul. Bielańska. It’s got quite a history. The site was originally home to a mint, but that found itsel f demolished to make way for the Warsaw division of the Imperial Bank of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikołajewicz Benois, a rec- tor of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction began in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within another four years the Russian’s had left, the collapse of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over the building, first employing it as the National Treasury, then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in 1926. The structure became a key strategic target during the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs the building was left to rot in the decades that followed. Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum, the bank was subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea bite the dust. Now Belgian property developer Ghelamco is redeveloping the site as an office complex that will open in mid-2012. According to plans the six-floor building will expose parts of the walls of the ancient mint. Execution Sites. The fal l of communi sm brought wi th i t a huge desi re to commemorate the Upri si ng, whi ch had hi ther to been l argel y erased from Pol i sh hi stor y by anti -nati onal i st communi st censors. Now memori al pl aques and tabl ets abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be i n Pol i sh onl y, i t doesn’ t take l ong to get the hang of them; on the whol e they’l l di spl ay the date and number of peopl e executed by the Nazi s. Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pom- ni k Powst ani a War szawski ego) B- 2, Pl . Krasińskich. I t was onl y wi th the regi me cl ose to col l apse that thi s unconventi onal, not to say contro- versi al monument was unvei l ed. Compl eted i n 1989 and desi gned by Wi ncent Kucma, i t depi cts a group of i nsurgents i n battl e, and another facti on retreati ng i nto the sewers. Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powsta- nia Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake). Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press. The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment. Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silence- inducing 5 minute 3-D aerial ‘ film’ which took 2 years to make and used old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10zł (children under 7 free). Mon free. Audio guides for 10zł per person. Film costs 2zł per person. Y Uprising Museum Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on Warsaw’s east bank is a memorial to commemorate these air- men. It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944, killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor, Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today it is the sight of the British Embassy’s annual Remembrance service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II. The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Małego Powstańca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Up- rising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944. Wol a Massacre Statue (Pomni k Pami ęci Ludności Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powsta- nia 1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarności. No other event captures the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre. Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into submission. Led by Heinz Reinfarth and Oskar Dirlewanger, a despicable man with a history of sex crimes against minors, German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to a halt when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians be sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from 2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarności. WARSAW UPRISING Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red and white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign of the insurgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising should not be underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910 this weird tower like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a telecommunications centre, a function it continued to serve under the Nazis. Heavily defended by bunkers and guard posts it was besieged for twenty two days by the Kilinski battalion of the Home Army before finally surrendering on the 22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek handed steward- ship of the building to a combatants association, and today, among numerous other functions, the ground floors are home to the recommended ‘Na Zielnej’ restaurant. Prudential Tower B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska. The first building in Warsaw to surpass fifteen floors. Built using 1,250,000 bricks Warsaw’s first true skyscraper became a major point of attack on opening day of the Rising, the symbolic meaning of a Polish flag on Poland’s tallest structure not lost on the insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and though it was gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused to topple. After the war the tower was given a thinner look, and for decades operated as the Hotel Warszawa. Closed in 2003, and currently in various stages of reconstruction courtesy of the Likus Group, the tower is due to be given a refit and new lease on life as both a hotel and top-class apartment block. Ruins of the Rising. Between 1939 and 1944 over 84 percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruction. Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Waliców, featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down. Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwała Saperom) H-3, Park Marszałka Edwarda Śmigłego-Rydza. De- signed by Stanisław Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975, the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and booby traps in the years after the war. “Free Warsaw will never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started the work on her reconstruction” reads the accompanying plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions of the hazardous work they undertook. Old Town Square, 1945 Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3 102 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 103 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com JEWISH WARSAW JEWISH WARSAW At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered 350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over 90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto that or the gas chambers of Treblinka. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw fell following a brief yet brutal siege the city’s ancient Jewish population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a Jewish council answerable to the Nazi’s whims, was ordered to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed to the city’s Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaw’s 1,800 streets, the area was carved into a ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, the two linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chłodna (E-2). Today an installation titled ‘Footbridge of Memory’ stands at this spot, with optical fibers illuminating the former handrails over the street at night. From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recovered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted a food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expected to survive on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way, their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third Reich Warsaw was the largest and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000 residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringel- blum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944 Ringelblum, an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated amongst the masses. The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference rubber-stamped plans for the ‘ final solution to the Jewish question’ and the first deportations to death camps began in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but now with rumours circulating about death camps a band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish Fighting Organization (ŻOB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artillery and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-street, house-to-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 and rather than face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide. By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.” With the fighting over the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia), a small concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000 and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the city’s hollowed out Jewish culture. Heroes in Horror Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and revealing hiding places brought considerable financial reward. Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively taking part in pogroms and ‘Jew hunts,’ the most notorious occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400 Jews and marching them to a barn which was subsequently torched. It’s a shameful episode in Polish history, and one immortalized in Jan Gross’s book Neighbours. Neverthe- less, such events should be offset by stories of those who risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for sheltering Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive and Yad Vashem has recognized over 6,000 Poles as being ‘Righteous Among Nations’ - more than in any other country. In Rozwadow Dr.Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of Warsaw University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews after putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected the town’s Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed the Nazis that an epidemic was at large. Terrified that it would spread, the Nazis quarantined the town and left it to its own devices. Known as ‘the Polish Schindler,’ Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communi- ties in this crafty manner. “I was not able to fight with a gun or a sword,” Lazowski said. “But I was able to find a way to scare the Germans.” In Krakow a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz Pankiewicz was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines were distributed for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum - came to double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded as a hero, Pankiewicz’s role in the Holocaust is remembered in Thomas Kenneally’s epic Schindler’s List. Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over 2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler had a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews and was suspended for three years from Warsaw University after voicing her vociferous opposition to segregated benches and was active in the underground the moment the war broke out. Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to help Jewish families, and later headed the children’s section of Zegota - a secret organization that was a ‘Council to Aid Jews.’ Using the fierce-looking court building on Solidarnosci as her bridge from the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless children inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent to live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe from Zegota saved her life, but nonetheless she was left unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs broken. She was officially declared dead by the Germans, and spent the rest of the war in hiding. But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted by the communist authorities on account of her wartime relations with the exiled government, and faced constant harass- ment. In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her for courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order of the White Eagle - Poland’s highest civilian decoration. She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate for some; in July 2010 her grave was vandalized with the words ‘Jews Out.’ Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz in 1914, Karski’s photographic memory and fluent command of foreign languages caught the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing him prestigious posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the Red Army. Karski avoided death in the forests of Katyn when he escaped from a train transporting him to a POW camp and headed to Warsaw to join the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in order to swap information with allies. One such foray saw him captured by the Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and was locked in a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke him out and Karski resumed his duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake a daring mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of Poland’s government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to reveal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski later found himself questioning his own memory and decided a second visit was in order to convince him that what he had seen was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed random brutalities as well as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the gas chambers. He successfully made it to England and was granted an audience with foreign secretary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader of the Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears. In the following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention with the release of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor, committed suicide. I can still see their faces (I ciągle widzę ich twarze) B-3, ul. Próżna. The Holocaust and the subsequent destruction of Warsaw in WWII erased virtually all remnants of the bustling pre-war Jewish community’s presence in the city, but there is one place where it is still possible to sense this lost age. There are two rows of dilapidated tenement houses dating from 1880-1900 on ul. Próżna (B-3) showing what Warsaw must have looked like, and adding to this is a series of giant posters hanging outside the buildings that depict members of the disappeared Jewish community. These photos are there thanks to a project called ‘I ciągle widzę ich twarze’ (I can still see their faces) which was created by Gołda Tencer, a Polish actress with Jewish origins who is the founder and director of the Shalom Foundation. In 1994 she appealed to people to send in photographs of Polish Jews so that an exhibition could be created commemorating those who died. The incredible response netted over 9,000 photographs, some from survivors and their families, some from Polish neighbours or friends of those killed. Then in 2008 the ‘I can still see their faces exhibition’ was mounted in ul. Próżna as part of the commemorations of the 65th anniversary of the Ghetto Uprising. The effect is quite stunning, particularly when you consider this street was once bustling with life, full of traders, stores and Jewish families. Located in the heart of a now modern city, this really is a place worth a moment of your time, especially since the tenements are set to be demolished soon as part of major renovations to the street (one side of the building has already seen the photos removed, but the other side remains intact). I can still see their faces Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej 104 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 105 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com TREBLINKA JEWISH WARSAW What to See A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. Żelazna. One of the most recognisable images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaw’s newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto. Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski) D-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.beisol- am.jewish.org.pl. A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto. Q In October open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. In November hours remain the same except the cemetery closes weekdays at dusk. Admission 8zł. Jewish Historical Institute (Żydowski Instytut Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its users to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country, an extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto exhibition, religious treasures, an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant is the collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto by Heinz Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German army and whose photographs speak volumes about the era. Essential visiting. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Y Jewish Museum (Muzeum Historii Żydów Pols- kich) C-3, ul. Warecka 4/6 (entrance from ul. Kubusia Puchatka), tel. (+48) 22 471 03 00, www.jewishmuseum. org.pl. This place promises to be one of the city’s biggest and best museums when it opens in October 2013. Currently being built at vast expense in what was the Jewish Ghetto during World War II, the museum will tell the story of Jews in Poland, and will also serve as a centre for geneology, making the tracing of relatives easier than ever before. A recent donation of 20 million zlotys from Poland’s wealthiest citizen, oil mogul Jan Kulczyk, is earmarked for the creation of the museum’s vast permanent exhibition. Note that this address is the museum’s office, not the future location of the museum. For up-to-date information visit their website and Facebook page. Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohat- erów Getta) A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. Designed by Natan Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza, Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that the heaviest fighting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone cladding on the monument was originally ordered from Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch. Nożyk Synagogue (Synagoga Nożyków) E-3, ul. Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa. jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo- Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in advance. Admission 6zł. Traces of the Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have decided to honour Warsaw’s Holocaust history by introducing a ‘ghetto trail’. Developed with the help of the Jewish Histori- cal Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places of particular interest. Maps of the ghetto are available from the Jewish Historical Institute for 10zl. Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak, slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deportations lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies the legendary monument labelled Miła 18 (note: this is not the address where you can find the monument). Essentially no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from where the Ghetto Uprising was directed. Willy Brandt Statue A-2, Skwer Willy Brandta. On December 7, 1970 images were flashed across the world of German Chancellor Willy Brandt knelt in pensive apol- ogy in front of Warsaw’s Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Popularly known as the ‘kniefall’ the spontaneous gesture was to become a symbol of reconciliation between east and west, with Brandt later confessing, “Under the weight of German history, and carrying the burden of the millions who were murdered, I did what people do when words fail them.” A monument commemorating his landmark act was unveiled 30 years later in the north east corner of the park that houses the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Made of brick, and featuring a brass relief designed by Wiktoria Czechowska Antoniewska, the monument was unveiled by a delegation that included Brandt’s widow, Danzig-born author Gunter Grass, Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder and Polish Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek. The square in which it is located has also since been named in honour of Brandt. For the overwhelming majority of Warsaw’s wartime Jews their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north west of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name forever etched in mankind’s roll of shame. Getting There Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based tour companies listed in the Sightseeing section who will be happy to tailor a visit for you. Alternatively, hire a six person minibus for 250zł - call 604 89 63 97 for further details. History Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka II, Treblinka I was originally established in the summer of 1941 and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp. Treblinka II, the death camp, opened the following year, receiving its first human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was designed for the sole purpose of murder, a function it fulfilled well. Measuring 400 by 600 metres and surrounded with barbed wire fences and watchtowers, the camp was carefully blended into the heavily wooded landscape in an effort to mask its existence. Consisting of a barracks, an armoury and storage areas, the camp also had a fenced off living area housing 1,000 Jews employed to clear bodies, hammer out teeth and shave hair. It was also home to the reception area, where cattle wagons loaded with Jews would screech to a halt. Built to resemble a legitimate train station, it was decorated with clocks, timetables, posters and even an infirmary replete with a Red Cross banner. In actual fact the infirmary was no more than a sinister façade to an execution pit, used to murder prisoners too weak to march to the gas chambers. Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the ‘shower block’. It was here that prisoners were ushered into gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were cremated on massive pyres. Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August 2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades, liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot, but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift counter-action. In the brief but fierce gun battle that followed many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners succeeded in escaping. Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Him- mler took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard death camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled, reforested and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled on the adjacent farmland. Al though i t is impossible to place an accurate figure on the number of people slaughtered, conservative estimates suggest that anything from 700,000 to 900,000 people were murdered during the camp’s existence. Of the number of Jews who passed through its gates it is thought that fewer than 100 lived to see the end of the war. Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka. Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year, apparently unrepentant. What to See What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is sure to leave you pondering for some time. Stock up on literature at the car park hut before making your way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms visitors will find a series of items recovered from the site - torah scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well as a few period photographs illustrating li fe at the camp. However, the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate work which really brings the grounds to li fe - details here include a zoo built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disney- styl e stone tower and the neatl y trimmed flower beds past which Jews would have filed on their way to the gas chambers. It’s a fascinating work, and one which provides plenty of pause for thought. Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the route trains from Warsaw woul d have foll owed before finall y terminating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews crammed inside the cattle wagons this represented the last stop in their persecution. Then, directly up ahead, comes the climax of the camp - marking the execution grounds lie hundreds of jagged memorial stones, each one inscribed wi th the name of a l ost communi ty. I t’s among these - to the left of your approach - you’ll find the only stone dedicated to a person. That man is Janusz Korczak, a pedagogue and author who famously turned down safe passage from the ghetto in order to stay with the orphaned chil dren entrusted in his care. His most famous work is the children’s tale King Matt the First (Król Maciuś Pierwszy), the adventure story of a young king. As well as telling the story of how the young king deals with the challenges of power in a bygone age, it is also a thinly veiled representation of historical events in Poland and describes a number of the social reforms the young king introduces, many targeting children and many of which Korczak himsel f introduced at his orphanage. While some of the language might be considered politically incorrect 90 years on it is a fascinating book and one that children today can still enjoy immensely. Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in front of it simply stating: “Never Again.” It’s an eerie experience, and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles. Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced into back breaking work. In the field further on concrete flooring and some foundations mark the outline of former prisoner barracks, while a number of crosses denote what was once the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka is a must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern history - absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet even without these this place has a high impact factor which will leave visitors silent. 106 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 107 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com ŁAZIENKI ŁAZIENKI Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere. Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska 56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśni ewski and Lech Kaczyński opting to li ve in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) this is once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president (now Bronisław Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns. Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny) G- 4, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod. uw.edu.pl. Part of the University of Warsaw the gardens have the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds during the summer are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom the gardens are the preferred subject matter of the students from the nearby art college who set up their easels and paints early and stay until the guards ki ck them out at sunset. I ndeed, gi ven such cracki ng scenery it is tempting to find a bench and do the same. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 6/3zł. Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik Chopina i Świątynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the summer impressive concerts take place around the statue almost every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public. Łazienki Park (Park Łazienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie. pl. The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdów Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and theatres, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here. One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and the cricket set: Łazienki, for all its charms, is further evidence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the western world, Łazienki takes a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’ attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you don’t believe us, try sitting on a Łazienki lawn and see what happens. That said, the park has recently added two zones where you’re allowed to have a picnic. Progress! Q Open from dawn till dusk. Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum Łowiectwa i Jeździectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl. North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 3-8/2-5zł. Thu free. Y Myślewicki Palace (Pałac Myślewicki) H-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki- krolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Palace. The residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, the palace is very much ‘as was’ complete with original murals, furniture and art. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70zł per group. Palace on the Island (Pałac na Wyspie) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki- krolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythologi- cal figures. The northern façade is relieved by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context. To get the best out of the palace we recommend taking one of the excellent guided tours (call ahead to book such a tour). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Tue, Wed, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł. Thu free. Guides 100zł per group up to 25 people. To arrange guide call 22 50 60 028. Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G-4. Crossing the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble the amphitheatre at Herculaneum, the theatre hosts productions throughout the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance sometimes get put on here). It is enough just to admire the setting before heading for one of the kitsch (one features an enormous swan) but irresistible gondolas that ferry up and down the lake during the warmer days (gondolas available weather permitting this fall). A short trip costs 8/6zł per person, and trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait for the boat to fill up before the gondolier sets off however. Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek Ujazdows- ki) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www. csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of Łazienki’s finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café, which has a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw and what appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One not to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. White House & Orangery (Biały Dom i Stara Pomarańczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little White House a gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for the king’s sisters which displays a fine collection of period furniture and decorations (will most likely be closed during the winter season). A few steps away is the impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue for Warsaw’s wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum of sculpture. From here head back past the White House, resist the temptation to head straight for the Palace on the Island and instead head south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast iron and glass it was designed by Józef Orłowski and opened in 1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70zł per group. Where to eat Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, enter from ul. Parkowa). See Restaurants. Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos. 116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100 metres along Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magni ficent Palace on the Island. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try to circumnavigate the park instead. While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or two-days combined ticket which offers single-access to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket 25/12zł, two-days tickets 30/17zł . Getting there Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org 108 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 109 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com WILANÓW WILANÓW It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further back than the communist post-war era and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s and country’s history. The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens. The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10 kilometres south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling 45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing boat on the Palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here. History Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands several times before being bought in the 17th century by the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today. A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is within the central part of the palace where you will see the living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen consort, Marie (or Marysieńka as she was affectionately called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the original part of the palace. After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned to France and the palace through their sons became the property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal residence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became the property of a succession of the most important Polish families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century, at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collection of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words ‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace floor signifying that the palace and its collection were ‘open to all’. The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and survived the war virtually intact although its collections were seriously looted. Confiscated by Poland’s post-war Com- munist government, Wilanów became part of the National Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation work in the royal apartments, archaeological research of the area and restoring the gardens to the splendor they enjoyed during Jan III Sobieski’s time. © The Wilanów Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The city’s metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking a bus from outside of the station. By bus. From Old Town: From (B-2) pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180 Mon-Fri. Journey takes about 30 minutes. From Pl. Trzech Krzyży: From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży take buses 116, 180 or E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops can be found at the southern end of the square on Al. Ujazdowskie. From the centre: From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszalkowska take bus 519. From Warszawa Centralna train station: Take bus 130 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-4) ul. Chałubińskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates. By Taxi. At around 50-55zł wi th a recommended company such as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanów is something of a false economy, taking more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside the (A/B-4) main train station. Getting there The Wilanów Palace Museum (Pałac w Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. His aim was to help educate society and protect national identity and knowledge at a time when Poland had ceased to exist. This tradition was maintained by his son August and over two hundred years on these values are still key to the museum’s role. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the Palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having bought your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing on the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes. It is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which is available in a number of languages as well as English, as there is very little description throughout the museum - particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th century. Wander through room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting although the lack of description and in some cases even the name of the people portrayed is rather frustrating. The tour leads you around the top of the house and then downstairs once more where you will find yourself in the residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered during restoration work after the war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock and even a private chapel there is a lot to admire. There are English language cards available in most rooms which give you a basic description of what to look for. The central part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. There are some lavish touches to be seen throughout the lower level and it may be of interest that the leadership of communist Poland would often use the palace to accommodate foreign dignitaries. Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the beds had to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall Charles de Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists at the weekends so there’s not really a best time to visit. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł, Sun free. Audioguide 12zł. The Wilanów Palace Museum Lake & Island. There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water beginning in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the Park’s island reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809. Q Boat hire open from 10:30 - 18:00. 7/5 zł for a place in a gondola; 10zł per boat per half hour. Rental is weather permitting during October. Park & Gardens. The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The Park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Profes- sor Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese landscape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski. Q Park open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K. Potock- iego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermu- seum.pl. Housed inside the Palace’s former indoor riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere. © The Wilanów Palace Museum, author: Zbigniew Reszka 110 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 111 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com CHOPIN WILANÓW The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a contrast to the historic palace and collection of paintings next door, this makes for interesting additional place to visit while in Wilanów. You can also find many of the best examples of the posters reproduced into postcards which can be bought from the museum shop along with books and catalogues on the various prints and exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł, Mon free. Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich) Wilanów Park. A tomb dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Po- tocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sand- stone. It is located in the park leading to Wilanów Palace and consists of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner. On the sarcophagus are the figures of the deceased and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed. SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22, tel. (+48) 783 40 77 70, www.galeriasd.pl. This small collection of modern Polish art close to St. Anne’s Church includes paintings and sculptures by many of the country’s leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impressive pieces of art, most of the work on display is available for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Admission free. St. Anne’s Church (Kościół Św. Anny) ul. Kolegi- acka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow. pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard in the 16th century and it wasn’t replaced with a brick one until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new church was called St. Anne’s and was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Al eksandra Lubormirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799- 1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church building you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Sta- tions of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built Third Millenium Tower. The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest Bogusław Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre of the city as a national Historic Memorial. QOpen 06:30 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please. Where to eat China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants. Restauracja Wilanów ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See Restaurants. Jan Sobieski was born in Olesko near Lwow (now Ukrainian Lvi v) in 1629. His father was a Polish- Lithuanian nobleman who ensured young Jan and his brother received a first class education and they both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey (as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French, German and Italian and during this time met major European political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the value of diplomacy as well as military might. Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered 14 children with (of whom 8 survived). Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655- 1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Michał Korybut Wiśniowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician and a canny political knack that would result in him being elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674. Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50 years of continuous war and set about stabilising the country’s borders through treaties and strategic battles. It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he is well remembered today. Sobieski’s greatest moment, however, was to come in 1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12 September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace. The Turks were to name Sobieski ‘The Lion of Lechistan’ (Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum (Sobieski’s Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski. The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was described as the saviour of European Christendom by the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European food culture. According to urban legend pastries were created baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieski’s stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved to become the bagels we enjoy today. Jan III Sobieski 2010 saw the country toast Chopi n wi th champagne; Poland’s greatest composer, and Warsaw’s favourite son, a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth and saw the city celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of a fabulous new museum. Chopin - Life & Times And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has been lost to time. One thing we can be certain of, and that’s his birthplace - the town of Żelazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of Warsaw. However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his ‘ father’, a man who’d fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as a French tutor. By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The young Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by the age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presi- dential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents applications for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nevertheless, his childhood was happy, and the gingerbread eating Frederic received gushing reviews in local columns and press. A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopin’s musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet Konstancha Gładkowska, and his unrequited love for her inspired many of his early compositions. Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in 1826 during which he visited Dresden, Kraków, Prague and numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern. Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in rebellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart diary record his torment: “Oh God, do you exist? Or are you yourself a Muscovite!” Choosing to stay in exile Chopin settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high society. His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profile Poles like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural charms attracted a string of adoring females. Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets reported him dead. He wasn’t, and the defining point of his life was to occur two years later when he met the controversial author George Sand (yes, that’s a woman). His first impression is recorded as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant woman’, he is known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s life would have evolved if he had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic ‘scarlet woman’, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca. Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged just 39 - though just like his birth, his death is equally conten- tious; some believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others a malady such as emphysema or cystic fibrosis. If you believe the stories he carried a lock of Sand’s hair till the day he died (though by the same token he is also alleged to have carried an urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaw’s Kościół Świętego Krzyża. His funeral was as weird as his life, delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated whether to grant his wish and allow Mozart’s Requiem to be sung at his funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his music and legend survive to this day. 112 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 113 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com CHOPIN CHOPIN What to See The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Kra- kowskie Przedmieście 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75, www.chopin.museum. The young Chopin hopped around three separate residences in Warsaw, though only one will be of use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father worked as a tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work now halted and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimier- zowski Palace is closed off to visitors as part of Warsaw University - a plaque on the right wing commemorates his fleeting presence. Instead pay a visit to Krasiński Palace (formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmieście, a place Chopin himsel f described as his ‘refuge’. Recon- structed in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969 none of the original furnishings survived the war, though the period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by his elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. That’s not the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended school in this building. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 3/2zł, Wed free. Y Holy Cross Church (Kościół Św. Krzyża) C- 3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinol ogist can l eave Warsaw wi thout first visi ting the final resting place of his heart (the rest of him being in Paris’ famous Père Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his heart was seal ed in an urn and then placed behind a tabl et bearing his likeness speciall y carved by Leonardo Marconi. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visi ting during mass pl ease. Łazienki Park. Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul. Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsar’s brother, Great Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by Chopin’s skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be played during military parades. Elsewhere in Łazienki don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smouldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. An identical replica can be found at Japan’s Hamamatsu Academy of Music. Augsburg Evangelical Church of the Holy Trin- ity (Kościół Św. Trójcy) B- 3, Pl. Małachowskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. I n 1825 Chopi n once more per formed for the Russi ans, thi s ti me for the Tsar hi msel f who i n return presented Chopi n wi th a di amond ri ng. Q Open by pri or arrangement. Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina) C-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated museum opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of the Uprising Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum is a jaw-dropping venue if you’ve had previous experience of Polish museums. Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the 200th anniversary of one of Poland’s most famous sons. Over 81 million zlotys were siphoned from council coffers to see this project realized, and the result is an amazing space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy and fitted out by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking up four floors the museum features an interactive style and shares in the life of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair, his school exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch presented to the ten year old Frederic by an admiring Italian singer and the passport he used to enter England. So comprehensive is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several paintings and sculptures (including his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an intriguing section on the women who made the man. And while there’s one small room of the museum aimed at children, the other 95 percent of this epic exhibition will probably have them whining to leave. However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen options, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’. Put simply those entering can choose exactly what they want to see, and how much they want to know about it. Even better are the micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along different interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a film. One area that was particularly popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century. As for the building, that’s worth getting to know as well. Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past it’s been home to everything from a Napoleonic military hospital to the riotous Morgan’s Pub, and its catacombs are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a princess charmed by the devil before being transformed into a beaked amphib- ian. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 22/13zł, family ticket 62zł, Tue free. Number of visitors is restricted, so it is advisable to reserve tickets in advance online. Fryderyk Chopin Museum Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C- 3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65 85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty. Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man himself played during a part time stint as a school organist. A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: ‘In honour of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826’. Q Open 09:00 - 16:30, Mon 13:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 16:30. No visiting during mass please. Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, Łazienki Park. Don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monu- ment (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. Chopin Benches. The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski, feature a button which when pressed have been designed to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes inscribed with a special code - take a pic on your phone, then send it to the instructed number and you’ll be rewarded to free access to Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. And the Rest It didn’t have a Starbucks and it didn’t have Coffeeheaven, but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving café culture. This wasn’t lost on Chopin who would frequent now defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka, named after it’s proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska. Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trębacka formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and it’s here that Cho- pin forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for what would prove to be his last time. Finally there’s Powązki Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Józef Elsner, his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1. Where to eat Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu Żelazowa Wola 14, tel. (+48) 46 863 21 68, www.restauracjapolka. pl. Set in a modern manor house across from Chopin’s birthplace is this classy venture by one of the country’s best known celebrity chefs - Magda Gessler. The setting is beautiful and features a summer terrace and grill for those warmer months. The food is Polish with some nice touches at prices that might surprise those who have eaten in city centre Gessler restaurants and makes for an excellent end to an interesting day outside of busy Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. (28-99zł). PTAUIEGSW Żelazowa Wola - Birthplace Żelazowa Wola 15, tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.nifc.pl. True enthusiasts will want to make the pilgrimage to Chopin’s place of birth, and a worthwhile trip it is. So what to expect? Well, although Chopin only spent the first year of his life here the place has become a veritable shrine to the man, and you’ll find it perpetually filled with foreign fans paying homage. The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but even so Żelazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the family. The Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their holidays, and we know for a fact the composer spent Christmas here in 1825 and New Year’s in 1826. The ZW manor house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam Towiański, who resided there between 1859 and 1878, was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by a lack of funds these efforts didn’t get much further than the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple of decades work didn’t so much stall as die. Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the related surge in national pride saw new efforts to commemorate Chopin’s legacy. The building was granted historic status and in 1928 the property was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society. Restoration on the buildings was initiated in 1930, as were plans to landscape the gardens, and buoyed by donations the curators started amassing a stack of Chopin memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck in the familiar form of the German army: the outbreak of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the building was looted and damaged. By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of the house in the late 1940s the house was in a sorry state of rot. Working round the clock Żelazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the centenary of Chopin’s death in 1949. Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view include portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture in the Bierdermier style. However, the bit that most will enjoy is the ‘mother’s room’, the actual scene of Chopin’s birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with a reverential silence observed by all who visit. Outside the landscaped gardens make for a nice weekend walk, and feature four Chopin monuments including one obelisk dating from 1894. While it might get busy, it’s Sunday that proves the best time to visit; since 1954 concerts have been held in the garden (weather allowing) from May through September. Getting there: Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and there’s no longer any direct buses from here to there (shame on you Warsaw). Employ Plan B: take a train to Sochaczew ( journey time 40 minutes, tickets 13.80zł - 17zł) and from there jump on bus number six which terminates at Mokas after stopping at Żelazowa Wola. This little adventure should take a further twenty minutes. Żelazowa Wola 115 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com (for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs. Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the secrets of the world around us. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun, especially if you are (or are with) a child. There’s a genuine flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of your own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others photographed that day), discover who or what is living next to us in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or - and this was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own game by out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a race at the arena. There’s plenty to do and you can easily spend a whole morning or afternoon there trying everything, particularly if you stumble on a day free of the ever-present school groups. Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, econom- ics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits - we swear we’ve never seen teens more effusive and excited as they tried to identify a monkey’s emotions, or finish lyrics to popular songs. There’s also four interactive labs dealing with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with installations lining the Wisła. The attached Heavens of Copernicus planetarium adds yet another option for visiting science buffs as it immerses attendees in 20 million stars thanks to a giant spherical screen that surrounds the 137 seats on all sides. The seven different 40-minute films (which require heads ets for English) 114 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the Planetarium has different opening hours. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 22/13-16zł, family ticket 57zł. (2adults+2children). Use of the labs costs an additional 18/14zł. Note that you must buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium. Admission 18zł/11-14zł, family ticket 47zł. Getting in Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre While the world’s attention was drawn towards the highly- visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaw’s amazing new stadium on the left bank of the Wisła, work was also being carried out on the river’s right bank on a building that might well outshine the stadium once the Euro 2012 hoopla has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - - which stands almost directly opposite the stadium along the river - - looks set to become Warsaw’s top tourist attraction for years to come. Getting there The centre can be found in the shadow of the Świętokrzyski Bridge on the banks of the Wisła River. A journey to the CSC from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes. Buses 105, 118 and 128 will drop you at the Biblioteka Uniwersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the corner to the unmissable building. Buses 102, 162 and 185 will drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC clearly in sight. Alternatively visit the ‘About us’ section of the English language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address. Introduction A rare exampl e of European Union funding being used in a genuinel y visionary way, the CSC is many things, not least (in the words of Poland’s Education Minister shortl y before the opening) an attempt to restate the case for sci ence and research in what can still be an intensely and deeply religious country. In that sense, giving t he centre the name of the man who did so much to end the church’s monopoly of education in the first place is little short of a masterstroke. Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April 2010 the president’s political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lob- bied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request was politely, respectfully, refused. Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - - that greets visitors at the €93 million (half of which came from the EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC today, it’s a little ironic that the building’s origins are slightly more humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape at the informal Science Picnics - - outdoor science, culture and art events aimed at the general public that have been held in Warsaw’s Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio, strangel y enough) was to bring popular science to the masses through handson experiments. Each year, as the numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, while the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events suggested that there was an untapped market in the region for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was the natural next step, though it took a number of years to secure the site and funding. Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little under- whelming (and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an annoyingly large number of ‘this exhibit is temporarily out of order’ signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sections of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe, and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction. Visiting Today Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building, you will be met by the centre’s very own Robothespian. A fully programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was developed in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks, interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the building throughout the day, but they will also become your ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which allow you to record your results (which are stored and then emailed to you afterwards). Passing through the barriers, the first display you come to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating. Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of all, register your card with your name and email address at one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you progress through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experiments to visit, spread over two floors and six areas: Roots of Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation are geared towards different age ranges and interests - tots will delight in the Sesame Street show “One World, One Sky” while teens will prefer the more mysterious “Black Holes: Journey into the Unknown.” Before each film is a 20-minute live show (which is unfortunately only in Polish, though still interesting due to the impressive venue) about the skies over Warsaw that changes with the seasons .School groups dominate the Planetarium’s seats during daytime hours, and booking tickets in advance is highly recommended - when we dropped in only one of the eight daily shows had available space. It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed Science Store (potentially the best spot for children’s gifts in Warsaw) and it’s a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen, very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show, which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section. The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad story about a robot that wants to become human in order to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly out of reach for young children. The various accents can also be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery) and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable. Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the impossible can become possible. 116 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 117 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com LEISURE Entertainment centres Hulakula Leisure Centre C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Uni- versity Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula. com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall, climbing wall and indoor playground for chi ldren. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Spin City ul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 Sun-Thurs, 10:00-02:00 Fri, Sat. Admis- sion for bowling is 40-99zl per hour. Features a bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video games area. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Fitness & Gyms Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland. com. Third floor of Złote Tarasy, with facilties including gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Golf First Warsaw Golf and Country Club ul. Golfowa 44, Jabłonna, tel. (+48) 22 782 45 55, www.firstwarsawgolf. com. Enjoy a year-round driving range with 36 balls costing 15zł, and an 18-hole golf course for 125-250zł (price depending on the day). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 19:00. Golf Park Driving Range ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. For 25zł you get 50 balls for use on the driving range. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Golf Park Józefów ul. Telimeny 1, Józefów, tel. (+48) 22 778 30 90, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Opened in 2007 Golf Swing features a six hole course, flood lit driving range, golf classes and club rental. The course is open outside of winter while the driving range is open all year round with 45 balls costing 20zl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. A driving range and six-hole course for 30zl per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Horse riding Anka Rancho Horse Riding ul. Wawrzyniecka 25, Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30 48 61, www.ankarancho. pl. Q Open Sat, Sun only 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 till dusk. Phone reservation two days in advance. One hour horse riding 50zł. Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilcze- niec) ul. Kościelna Droga 10, Łomianki, tel. (+48) 22 751 97 77, www.wilczeniec.pl. English speaking instruction also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 60zł/40 minutes of riding in a closed corral with assistance, 40zł/40 minutes riding outside the corral on your own. Outdoor Attractions & Parks Playground F-6, ul. Odyńca 6, www.ogrodjordanowski. pl. A huge complex of climbers, slides, sandpits, swings and more unusual contraptions to keep both very small and not so small kids busy. Parents drink coffees at the cafe on the grounds. Keep your eyes open for kiddie events. Q Open 07:00 till dusk. Admission free. Adrenaline Sports Mr. Quad ul. Tysiąclecia 59a, Otwock, tel. (+48) 22 788 45 14, www.mrquad.pl. Q Open by prior arrangement. 10 quads, 246zł per day (12 hrs) per one quad. Silt Paintball, tel. (+48) 503 41 41 75, www.paintball.silt.pl. A minimum of ten people in a group generally required so call in advance. Q 60zł per person, equipment plus 200 shells. Bike Rental Veturilo, en.veturilo.waw.pl. Warsaw cements its big- city credentials with the arrival of its first city-wide bike rental fleet in August, and the numbers are impressive. With 57 stations spread throughout Warsaw, Wilanow, Ursynow and Bielany offering 1,120 bikes there’s no question you’ll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the city’s streets. And why not try one yoursel f? The system is ridiculously easy: set up an account online (en.veturilo. waw.pl is the English-language site) and pay the initial 10zl fee. Once you’re registered you can visit any of the stations and select your ride, which has an individualized code. Simply dial the enter your phone number, your PIN and the bike’s code, and you’ll receive the number to un- lock the bicycle from the stand. Then you’re off! The first 20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zl for 21-60 minutes, 3zl for the second hour, 5zl for the third, and 7zl for each hour after that up to 12 hours. There’s a 200zl fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 2,000zl cost for replacing a lost or damaged bike so behave yoursel f. When you return the bike, which can be done at any of the stations, you make another phone call confirming the return and you’re finished. Wygodny Rower C-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. (+48) 888 94 99 49, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Choose from two different styles of bicycles for cruising around the city. A full day will cost 40zł, 24 hours is 50zł. Both require a returnable deposit of 200zl. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Bowling & Billiards Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco- bowling.pl. Two fl oors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150zł per l ane per hour, shoes and i nstructor i n- cluded. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Klub ArenA A- 4, ul. Pańska 61, tel. (+48) 22 620 47 08, www.bilard.waw.pl. Billiards fans can take advantage of Klub ArenA’s multiple pool tables as well as access to foosball, darts, a well-stocked bar and plenty of space for lounging. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. LEISURE Playground in Łazienki Park G-5, Al. Ujazdowskie. Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/13zł. Children under 3 years free. Racquet Sports City Tennis Club G-6, ul. Merliniego 2, tel. (+48) 695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Located on ul. Merli- niego, they offer tennis courts (55-90zł/per hour), lessons with an English-speaking instructor (45-160zł/per hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social lessons for expats. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City, Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl. Nine air-conditioned courts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30-65zł. Spa & Beauty Franck Provost C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 58a, tel. (+48) 22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. French-trained English-speaking stylists offering unisex hair treatment and styling from 100zł to 350zł. Manicure and pedicure also available as well as cosmetic products by L’Oreal and Ker- astase. Also at (G-5) ul. Puławska 25a, which has expanded spa services like massage and microdermabrasion. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. (+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Includes a junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fitness centre. Length 25m, depth 1.1-1.8m. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 12-17zł per hour. All day tickets 19-31zł. Polna F-4, ul. Polna 7a, tel. (+48) 22 825 71 34, www. osir-polna.pl. Includes a kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and water slide. Length 25m, depth 1.25-1.8m. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30. Admission 15/10zł per hour. Hulakula Bowling Al- ley C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hul akul a.com.pl . QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20-120zł per hour. Shoes included. Sungate Beauty & Spa B-3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. (+48) 517 01 28 80, www.spasungate. pl. The menu of services available at Sungate is staggering: from facials and every imaginable type of massage (shea butter to aromatherapy) to wax- ing and nailcare they have you covered from head to foot. Package for couples, women and just regular folks who like to indulge are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. b e a u t y & s p a 118 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 119 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com LOCAL FOOTBALL LOCAL FOOTBALL One of Poland’s biggest and most successful clubs is here in the capital. Legia Warszawa was originally formed during WWI as a club for the fighting legions and was officially established as the army club in 1922. They have quite a history with eight league titles and a record 13 cup triumphs to their name and are one of only 2 Polish clubs to have qualified for the league stage of the Champions League. Formed as a club for Polish legionnaires in 1916, Legia were twice removed from domestic football first as a result of end of the First World War and then in 1937 when the club’s board withdrew Legia from the league after promotion was not achieved. Al ways i denti fi ed wi th the mili tary, the club gained an advantage from its official association with the army of the People’s Republic of Poland after 1949. This allowed Legia to recruit whichever players they wanted with the help of the law. (Basically come and play for Legia or do your service in the army). Legia’s first domestic success was the league and cup double which they won in 1955 and which was repeated a year later. One of the leading figures of that team was striker Lucjan Brychczy, a club legend and holder of the records for both the most appearances (452) and goals (227) in the club’s history. Brought to the Polish capital officially for military service, Brychczy remained at Legia for the rest of his career, winning four Polish titles and cups before he retired in 1972. Brychczy was pursued by both Real Madrid and AC Milan, but the communist authorities ensured he stayed with ‘their’ team and he remained in Poland. Brychczy later went onto manage Legia and was still involved in the coaching side late into his 70s. The club’s greatest success in Europe was achieved in 1970, when Legia reached the semi-finals of the European Cup only to be eliminated by eventual winners Feyenoord of Rotterdam. Under the tenure of, by now, manager Brychczy, Legia also gave AC Milan a stern test in the quarter finals of the 1972 Cup-Winners’ Cup, only to lose to an 118th minute goal in the second match. The unquestioned star of that team was Kazimierz Deyna. Although Legia was one of leading clubs in Poland during the eighties, the club had to wait more than twenty years for another domestic title, despite winning a couple of Polish Cups in the seventies and eighties. “Wojskowi” (which translates to “Military Men”) sealed the championship in 1993, after beating Wisła Krakow 6-0. However with their title rivals ŁKS also winning 7-1 that day to lose out on the championship on goal difference, the Polish FA (PZPN) questioned both results and after voting, without any proof, awarded the title to third placed Lech Poznan. Both Legia and ŁKS were banned by UEFA as well. Legia did go on to win the next two titles. The club’s recent history is as turbulent and largely connected with the issue of ownership. Briefly the club had added a sponsor’s title to its name, while the current owner, Poland’s leading media tycoon, has been in regular conflict with the fans. Legia is a club well-known for the passion of its support. Playing at the rebuilt Polish Army Stadium, the loudest section is called “Żyleta” (“Razorblade”) and is where you’ll find much of the atmosphere. This is created in part by the production of huge banners which cover most of the home support. These sometimes attract a lot of criticism such as one displayed during the 2011/12 season when Legia met Hapoel Tel-Aviv in the Europa League which had “Legia Jihad” written on it and attracted widespread condemnation for the club and the supporters. Legia, who had last won the title in 2006, looked to be on course for the 2011/12 title as they led the table with two games to go, only to drop points and finish outside of top three, losing out on the title to Slask Wroclaw. Although Warsaw’s second club, Polonia Warszawa have traditionally been seen as the poor neighbour, they are in fact older than Legia having been formed in 1911 at a time when Poland didn’t even exist as a nation. Taking the name Polonia (the Latin for Poland) the club represented something of a protest to the ruling Russians and the black shirts for which Polonia are known were also seen as a mark of mourning the missing country. With 2 league championships and 2 Polish cups, “Czarne Koszule” (“The Black Shirts”) have a less successful history than their illustrious neighbours. Their very first Polish title was won in 1946, when Warsaw was still in ruins after the Second World War and “Czarne Koszule” had to play at Legia’s Polish Army Stadium. Their ground, found on ul. Konwiktorska, was destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. The Polish Cup, won in 1952, was for decades their last trophy. The drought was ended in 2000 when the team, led by the man that would go onto lead Poland to the 2002 World Cup finals Jerzy Engel, surprised everyone by winning the title against all the odds. One of the stars of the side was the Polish national side’s first black footballer, Emmanuel Olisadebe, born in Nigeria but given Polish citizenship with Engel’s support. The championship was sealed with a memorable 3-0 win over local rivals Legia. Despite this the following years proved extremely tough with the club relegated and very nearly going out of business. Local developer and one of Poland’s richest men, Józef Wojciechowski, stepped in to save the club when it was in the second division. Wojciechowski then effectively bought promotion by buying Groclin Grodzisk Wielkopolski, an Ekstraklasa club, and then replacing them with Polonia. De- spite fans being against such a move at first, Wojciechowski convinced them with promises of major investment. The period of his ownership was one of the most controversial in the history of Polish football. Having bought the club in 2006 Wojciechowski invested millions in dozens of players that were later discarded and changed managers a staggering seventeen times during his reign. Polonia did not win the promised title and, after a woeful finish to the 2011/12 season, Wojciechowski vowed to end his interest in “Czarne Koszule”. After a traumatic summer in 2012, when the club saw most of its established players leave, the club was sold for 1zl to Ireneusz Krol, a Polish businessman who had previ- ously invested money in GKS Katowice. Rumours abounded that the two clubs were to be merged with Polonia replaced in the top division by the new hybrid which would have effectively seen the end of Polonia as a professional football club. In the end the club remained intact, now managed by the youth team coach and featuring the few survivors from the previous season and a large number of players promoted from the youth set-up. It’s fair to say that most Polonia fans are just grateful that they still have a club to support. Finally Warsaw is also home to the new National Stadium built especially to host games in the Euro2012 championships. In addition to football, the stadium plays host to everything from concerts to conferences and is an excellent and extremely well located venue, making it all the more surprising that the Polish national side continues to rotate matches around the country. A move to making this their permanent home would do their chances of winning more games no harm at all in our opinion. Legi a War sz awa H- 4, ul . Łazienkowska 3, tel. (+48) 22 318 20 00, www.legia.com. Legi a’s redevel oped Pol i sh Army stadi um at Łazienkowska (now renamed the Legia Warszawa Pepsi Arena) means that Warsaw’s biggest club now has a 31,000 seat stadium in which to play, featuring two 7-ton video screens, a museum dedicated to the history of the football club and its own TV studi o. The best pl ace to watch the game from as a foreigner is the East Stand (Try- buna Wschodnia) and you shoul d bri ng a passport (not driving licence) to buy tickets. Upcomi ng matches are as follows and are subject to change due to TV schedules. October 5, 20:30 - Wisła Kraków October 27 - Piast Gliwice November 10 - Jagiellonia Białystok November 24 - Widzew Łódź QTicket office open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Matchdays open 11:00 until end of 1st half. Legia operate a dual category system for ticket prices.Category I (bigger matches) and Category II. East Stand tickets cost: I category 60-120zł, II category 45-90zł. The following discounts are available: Women - 30%, Students - 20%, Seniors over 60 - 50%. Children up to 7 - free. Family sector tickets - 40-54zł per adult, children up to 13 - 1zł. Legia Warszawa Polonia Warszawa A- 1, ul. Konwiktorska 6 (entrance also from ul. Bonifraterska), tel. (+48) 22 634 37 76, www.ksppolonia. pl. Stadium capacity is 6,800 with 350 places reserved for opposing supporters. Forei gn fans shoul d buy tickets for the main stand (Trybuna Główna). Note you shoul d bri ng ID (passport or dri ver’s license) in order to buy a ticket. Upcoming games are l i sted bel ow. Note that some kick-off times are subject to change for live TV. October 21, 17:00 - Ruch Chorzów November 3-4 - Korona Kielce November 17-18 - Górnik Zabrze November 24-25 - Zagłębie Lublin QThe ticket office is open 11:00-19:00 from the Monday prior to the game. Tickets 25-45zł. Polonia Warszawa Museum of Legia Warszawa (Muzeum Legii Warszawa) H-4, ul. Łazienkowska 3 (Pepsi Arena), tel. (+48) 22 318 20 00, www.legia.com. Opened in 2006 on the 90th anniversary of the club, this is a museum dedicated to all things Legia including a display of the shirts, caps and medals of one of Legia’s greatest players - Kazimierz Deyna. A very worthwhile visit for fans of all things football, the museum plots the club’s history as the Army team through to today where it is one of the best supported playing in a modern stadium which you’ll find 10 minutes by taxi from the centre. You’ll find the museum in the North stand of Legia’s Pepsi Arena via the main entrance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Museum of Legia Nati onal Stadi um H-2, Al. Księcia J. Poni- atowskiego 1, www. stadionnarodowy.org. pl. Easil y spotted from across the ri ver i n Ol d Town the new Nati onal Stadi um has room for 58,000 fans and 860 journalists, while the construction itself, with its red and white covering, was built using hundreds of 45-metre support pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25 metres of war rubble the stadium finds itself atop. Priced at 1.2 billion PLN history buffs will note that the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s past heritage - it was here that stood the Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium), built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. This was also the site where, on September 8, 1968 in front of 100,000 people, Ryszard Siwiec set himself alight in protest at the Soviet led invasion of Czechoslovakia. Nearly 50 years on this new National Stadium is a shining example of how far Poland has come since those dark days and is an exceptional place to watch the national side with the excellent acoustics providing a deafening atmosphere. The stadium is approximately 3km from the area around the main train station and Palace of Culture straight along Al. Jerozolimskie and can be reached quickly and easily either by train, tram, bus or taxi. Take a train or tram from outside of the Marriott hotel/Main Railway station or take the local commuter train from the Warszawa Srodmiescie station located close to the main station (Warszawa Centralna). National Stadium KSP Polonia Warszawa SSA 120 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Łódź may l ook l i ke i t’s pronounced Lodz, but it most certainly isn’t. Think of it as Woodge, and three hundred years ago a visit here would have produced the sight of little more than one man and his dog. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. And while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all inside our 13th issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language guide to the city. Łódź In Your Pocket Getting there Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily accessed by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be within an hour’s reach of Warsaw, but for the time being journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they continue to work on the new high speed link. If you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street, ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers should only use cabs that are clearly marked. Some basics Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800 as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made and lost by the major industrialist families. By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź. Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting underground culture. Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s l ongest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www.inyourpocket.com. Manufaktura How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m 2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story. Manufaktura today i s the resul t of Pol and’s l argest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m 2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen showings of sports events. Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress with new additions and changes happening all the time. The complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski. heteIs kestaurants Cafés kightIife 5ightseeing £vents Maps L00Z 5eptember - 0ecember zezz N°20 - 5z| (W lyr 8º vAT) |odz.|ryourpoc|el.cor l33N 189ê-11ê9 0avid Lynch Holl ywood’s strangest director and his love affair with Lodz AII 5aints' 0ay Experience one of the country’s treasured traditions ŁÓDŹ Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of Łódź City Council S h o p p in g M a ll M u s e u m o f A r t M u s e u m o f th e F a c to r y C ra fts m a n ’s a lle y A n d e ls H o te l R e s ta u ra n ts B o w lin g a lle y , re s ta u ra n t R e s ta u ra n ts C in e m a C ity w ith 1 5 s c re e n s in c lu d in g 3 D IM A X K id s p la y a n d E x p e r y m e n ta riu m - in te ra c tiv e s c ie n c e m u s e u m M u s e u m o f th e H is to r y o f Ł ó d ź M id -s iz e s to re * F o o d c o u r t T h e F a m ily e n te r ta in m e n t c e n tre a n d re s ta u ra n ts T h e M a rk e t S q u a re ‘R y n e k ’ D is c o - E le k tro w n ia 1 1 2 2 3 3 11 11 4 4 5 5 15 15 6 13 13 7 7 14 14 10 8 8 8 6 16 16 10 9 9 8 12 12 Real 122 SHOPPING Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 123 SHOPPING October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Alcohol Of course you didn’t come to Poland just for the booze, but while you’re here it’d be rude not to check out what the country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store. Others to watch for include Żubrówka - that’s the one with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka, and wiśniówka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. Bottle shops are numerous in Poland, as common as cabbage, though the ones we list come guaranteed to have no tramps or underage teens. Chopin Luxury A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 01 03, www.chopinvodka.com. More than an off-license, more like everything you’ve ever wished for before embarking on a Leaving Las Vegas session. Expect cream-of-the-crop alcohols of every name and origin, not just Polish. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P E-3, ul. Pańska 81/83, tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet located in the building that used to serve as the home to the Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Amber & Jewellery Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and cov- eted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of amber baubles. Frey Wille C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. (+48) 22 827 55 03, www.frey-wille.com. Fine jewellery and fashion accessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Galeria Artystycznego Rzemiosła B-2, ul. Świętojańska 23/25, tel. (+48) 22 831 94 23. Old Town store filled with all measure of amber options as well as glassware, all housed immaculately behind glass cases. One of the only shops where prices are clearly displayed on all of the pieces, which gets our thumbs up. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Kelly Melu Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22 827 33 74, www.kellymelu.pl. The number of young men jostling to make purchases for their sweethearts should tell you all you need to know about Kelly Melu jewellery: it’s popular, it’s stylish and it’s affordable. The brightly-coloured bracelets with charms appear to be the current must-have. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Mokobelle G-3, ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance at Mokotowska 54), tel. (+48) 607 07 37 15, www.mokobelle.pl. Mod- ern jewellery from Polish and other European designers and friendly staff that’s eager to let you try it on. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. W.Kruk C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various international brand names including Emporio Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Anne Klein. Watches only available at these locations: (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 8, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1, Klif) and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. World of Amber B-2, ul. Świętojańska 11, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in advertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large number of knowledgeable staff, which means you’re never left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service. Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of amber. We swear. Also at (B-2) ul. Świętojańska 14, (B-2) ul. Piwna 12/14 and (B-2) ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Antiques & Art Galleries A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch along Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will tell you the real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the excellent Bazar Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling and bargaining are considered de rigeur. For full details on that check Markets. If you’re planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand. It’s not Dubai, it’s not Hong Kong, it’s not Milan and it’s not London. Warsaw has a long way to go before it’s regarded as a shopping mecca, but the city is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s western style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there’s presents to be had for everyone on your list (including yourself). Wife or girlfriend When we think of what the ladies would like, one word comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin, and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish jeweller W. Kruk. Husband or boyfriend One word: vodka. Another word: lard. Take home Poland’s famous nectar and a container of smalec (spreadable lard) and you’ll make any man happy. Krakowski Kre- dens carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while you’ll find popular Polish vodka brands like Żubrówka and Belvedere at Chopin Luxury and M&P. Brother Euro 2012 may be over, but football is always popular in Poland and Intersport at Zlote Tarasy carries all the gear to get fully kitted out. Grab your brother an official national team jersey in bright red and white and he’ll feel like his sporting best. Sister If sis is a stylish gal head to Morka+in Saska Kepa for the fashion-forward pieces created by Polish designer Ewa Morka. For high-end options the new domMody VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci and Alex- ander McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store is one of our fashion favourites. Child If you’re looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish garb, look no further than Cepelia. For something on the educational end of the spectrum we recommend you raid the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre; games, experiments and books for all ages await. Mom Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions from Produkty Benedyktyńskie, which carries a variety of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in Krakow. If she skews towards sweets then snag a box Polish truffles at Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel. Dad If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing maps from last century. Shopping at a Glance Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. (+48) 22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance you’ll spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through. Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps that are also for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Desa Modern H-5, ul. Bartycka 114, tel. (+48) 22 584 95 25, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art circles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Galeria aBo Art B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.aboart.eu. Miniscule Old Town art gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks, glassware and jewellery all jumbled together for your perusal. A unique local offering. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Lapidarium B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48) 509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. We can (and probably have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered rooms filled with all manner of junk - - and we say that with love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters, busts of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm equipment fights for your attention here. Give yourself time to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase. How to spot this place? Look for the antique bicycle and spindle sitting outside the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. 124 SHOPPING Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 125 SHOPPING October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Van Den Berg Galeria Sztuki ul. Emilii Plater 12 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 512 57 62 01, www.galeriaberg. com. What’s a South African doing in Warsaw? Selling art, of course. And not just any art - customers will find the work of Salvador Dali mingling with that of the owner’s father Riaan Van Den Berg and Polish artists like Andrzej Krawczak. Owner Adriaan Van Den Berg amiably guides visitors through the collection, which includes biographies of all the artists. A must-visit for devoted art collectors. QOpen 11:30 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Books, Music & Films Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions of flights that land each morning at Okęcie most English language dailys don’t hit the shops until the afternoon, sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though Traffic and Relay (main hall of central train station) also stock a smattering of titles. Also try the newsagents found in five star hotels. As far as magazines are concerned, EMPiK blows the competition out of the water, though you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice. For books check out one of the American Bookstores scattered around the city. EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 81, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games and movies. There’s also an EMPiK megastore nearby at ul. Marszałkowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Traffic Club C- 4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692 14 50, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Fashion & Accessories The stylish denizens of Warsaw’s streets are an easy indicator that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot out anything less than your best and it won’t go unnoticed, we promise you. With the opening of dom mody VITKAC the city has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and Lanvin, and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for the latest designer offerings. But you don’t have to stick to the big fashion houses here. Polish stores like Tatuum and Morka+ offer distinct style at reasonable prices, so ki t yoursel f out accordingl y. For lots of options in one location check out Warsaw’s shopping centers like Zlote Tarasy and Arkadia. Bl i nd Concept Stor e C- 4, ul . Mokotowska 63/100, tel. (+48) 501 77 06 61. The word quirky was invented for shops like this one, whi ch sells everything from neon-col oured rubber flats to tote bags covered i n skul l s. Ecl ecti c j ewel l er y and bi zarre kni ckknacks (cupcake-fl avoured l i pgl oss, anyone?) round out the experi ence. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Cl osed Sun. Carolina Herrera C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 412 36 00, www.carolinaherrera.com. The eponymous high- end designer opens her first Warsaw store for women loyal to great style. Find clothing, accessories and fragrances inside this elegant showroom. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Stores are one of the leading designer brand retailers in Poland and Warsaw’s version is now housed at the high-end dom mody VITKAC shopping centre, where it rubs shoulders with labels like Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. Which should tell you straight away that Likus is no slouch when it comes to fashion: the new store is well stocked with all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and Yves Saint Laurent you could ask for. The decor of washed grey walls and shelves of old books - and don’t miss the antler chandelier near the dressing rooms - make it look like the most stylish library on earth. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Maciej Zień C-4, ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 49, www.zien.pl/pl/butiki. A well-known name in the Polish fashion industry, Maciej Zień is a Lublin-born designer whose collections can be found in magazines and on Polish stars. That said, the store is less intimidating than Zień’s credentials so pop in and browse. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99, www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique featuring collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ralph Lauren. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Morka + ul . Jana Styki 1 (entrance f rom ul . Zwycięzców, Saska Kępa), tel. (+48) 505 82 75 50, www.morkaplus.com. This postage stamp-sized Saska Kępa boutique is filled with the simple styles of local Pol- ish designer Ewa Morka. Designs cover casual and dress attire, and accessories like handbags and jewelry are also on display. Browsing in this mini-boutique will take minutes; it’s deciding how to spread out your budget to cover all your wants that takes times. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Secret Life (of things) F-4, ul. Polna 18/20, tel. (+48) 22 412 48 11, www.secretlife.pl. It’s hard to know how to classify Secret Life since their bright, airy shop is home to so many different things: there’s a case of unique jewellery, a room devoted to clothes and shoes, a pile of handbags, and then a scattering of funky home decor items and knick- knacks that demand your attention. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. TFH Tymczasowy Butik B-4, ul. Szpitalna 8a, tel. (+48) 509 74 17 89. This one-time pop-up shop has set down roots finally, which means you’ll know exactly where to find the city’s hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and hoodies from over 20 of Poland’s young fashion designers, including Rozwadowska Bags, Alicja Saar and Odio Tees. Don’t forget to check out the accessories and large pictorial books about - what else? - fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Food & Sweets Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and preserves to jars of smalec (yep, that’s spreadable lard for your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after you’ve leapt the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal. Delikatesy Blikle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. (+48) 22 828 63 25, www.blikle.pl. Aside from homemade cakes and eclairs Poland’s most famous confectioner can boast killer donuts, once enjoyed by a certain Charles de Gaulle. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Odzieżowe Pole G-3, ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. (+48) 696 04 95 68. With no sign out front at this new location there’s a good chance you’ll trot right past Odzieżowe Pole and not realise what you’re missing. Don’t. Modern city fashion calls this funky boutique home, and there’s even a coffee bar offering lattes while you browse. Find everything from work attire to cocktail dresses on offer, including a stylish selection of accessories. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 F-4, ul. Hoża 1, tel. (+48) 22 622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label-conscious shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like Ralph Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo and TOD’s that are spread across men’s and women’s apparel and accessories. Displays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and the staff is eager to search for any size - and have an ency- clopaedic knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com. TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE 2 STAMP IT 3 REFUND 1 GET IT Once youíve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop staff for a Tax Free Form when youíre paying for it. Tax Free Shopping For more details contact: Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o. Phone: +48 22 500 18 51 e-mail: [email protected] www.global-blue.com As a traveler residing in a non-EU country you are entitled to claim back the VAT on your purchases when you bring them home. You will find Global Blue Tax Free Shopping service in the major shops of Poland. Spend a minimum of 200PLN, and save up to 12% of the purchase price. When youíre leaving the country to head home or to continue your journey, take your purchases, receipt and passport to the customs desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If youíre travelling on to another EU country, get the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final point of departure from the EU. Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer Services or one of our partner refund points and theyíll issue your refund immediately. I f you’re visiting Poland and plan to pay for any purchases with a credit card whose base currency isn’t Polish zloty (and unless you’re Polish, this probably means you) odds are you may find merchants asking whether you want to be charged in your home currency or zlotys. At times (though this is more rare) it’s not even a question – the merchant will simply take it upon himsel f to charge your credit card in your home currency, no questions asked. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking your credit card company won’t charge a foreign transaction fee i f you opt to be charged in your native currency; crossing the border is what they care about, not the currency. And that’s just one of the reasons why, when given the choice, it’s in the best interest of your wallet to choose zlotys. Why? Because the companies that process credi t card transactions typically tack on fees for converting the money, and then do so at a lousy exchange rate. Depending on the size and number of your purchases while in Poland, the cost can really add up. Visitors will have to be vigilant and monitor receipts when paying with a credit card, and should you be charged in a di f- ferent currency put your foot down. Merchants don’t benefit from those additional fees, only the company that processes the transaction does. So be firm about asking to have your purchase refunded and done over again in zlotys. Credit card charges 126 SHOPPING Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 127 SHOPPING October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com Arkadi a D- 1, Al . Jana Pawła II 82, tel. (+48) 22 323 67 67, www.arkadia.com. pl. If you can’t find it in Arkadia, you probably never will. Covering a total area of 287 000 m2 Arkadia stands out as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive Warsaw, so it’s little wonder we know of people who spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approximately 45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara, Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems. Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark & Spencers food department in the country. If you can’t find what you’re after in there then head to Kuchnie Świata. The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate and Dr Pepper. English language books are available from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM- PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. FACTORY Outl et Pl . Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.factory.pl. This outlet centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen and more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can access it by taking the SKM train from Śródmieście and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Wlochy. Your final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. dom handlowy VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. The giant glowing ‘Gucci’ sign will be your first hint that this isn’t your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is the second. Shoppers can find the popular Likus Con- cept Store on the main level of the sprawling structure while abels like Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels of shopping space, with roughly three employees available for every browsing customer. The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if you’re looking to splurge on designer names then this is your headquarters. If maxing out your credit card works up an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13, which offers sweeping city views in a modern, open-concept space. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Shopping malls Zł ote Tarasy A- 4, ul . Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy. pl. Warsaw’s monstrous train station now has a new neighbour - the sparkl i ng Złote Tarasy compl ex. Of fi ci al l y opened on February 7, 2007 by Warsaw mayor, Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first afternoon alone saw 64,000 people file through the doors. The 250 million Euro project includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Draw- ing more than million visitors each month the complex signals a bold shi ft away from the out-of-town malls found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks & Spencers, Aldo, Poland’s first Body Shop, Hugo Boss, Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors can not only visit Poland’s first Hard Rock Café which is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels, including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Kl i f D- 1, ul . Okopowa 58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531 45 00, www.kli f.pl. The nati onwi de Kl i f chai n have long been present in Warsaw, though if you think you’ve seen it all before then think again. These chaps have rebranded and re-launched with October 2008 refit resulting in the addition of new floors, an updated design and a thorough facelift. But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in the pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags from MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual faves like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper and Mothercare. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 22, tel. (+48) 696 49 00 11, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Pol- ish delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses. Also on ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Manufaktura Cukierków C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 21, tel. (+48) 692 88 87 51, www.manufaktura-cukierkow.pl. More an experience than a shopping venue, Manufaktura Cukierków puts candymaking on display with a large open space that lets customers watch as the candy is being art- fully created in front of their eyes. Children are understand- ably the shop’s biggest draw as they stand dazzled by the production process. The final product isn’t bad either, with flavours like lemon honey and cola popping off your tongue. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00. Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A Pol - ish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade pralines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Produkty Benedyktyńskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl. This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish only) website.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. NEW SAM C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www. sam.info.pl. If you’re looking to stock up on fresh produce, roasted coffee beans, the best homemade breads and all the necessary staples for your kitchen you can do no better than SAM, which is tucked inside this restaurant/bakery near the University library. Organic and local is the name of the game, and it’s always worthwhile to grab a meal before you lug your haul home.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00. Gifts & Souvenirs Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and wood- work all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II. For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt or scarf off any of the stalls that spring up unannounced around central station. Artis Galeria Sztuki Użytkowej F-3, ul. Emilii Plater 47, tel. (+48) 22 620 59 30, www.artisgaleria.pl. Folkish souvenirs including religious icons, angels, dolls, tapestries and carvings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Art Manus G-4, ul. Mokotowska 41, tel. (+48) 22 627 21 04. Top quality Polish made linen on a street renowned for its boutique elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Bolesławiec Pottery A-4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Brightly patterned hand-finished ceramics and tableware. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. (+48) 22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handi- crafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza 23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Intersport A- 4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 12 444 88 88, www.intersport.pl. I f you’re a fan of the Polish nati onal football team this is your HQ for all the of fi cial gear, from j erseys to shorts to the balls themsel ves. Also a great spot for general sports apparel shoul d you require i t. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little find selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and a must visit if you’re looking for a something a little unique. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Rock Shop B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Zł ote Tarasy), tel . (+48) 22 222 07 00, www. hardrockcafe.pl. You know a ci ty has made i t when i t gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Warsaw’ one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in the Złote Tarasy development opposite the train station. Classic t-shirts cost 99zł, all others run 105zł. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Markets Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of ‘The Russian Market’ hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of vigilance while perusing the swag on show. Koło Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836 23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the country this is exactly the place i f you’ve ever wanted to own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours for 16,000zł). What else can you find? We’ve spotted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and grandfather clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1zł. You’ll even find the occasional celeb looking for something wacky to fill their top-floor penthouse with. The traders themselves are a set of curious characters, and watching these veterans at work is one reason alone to visit. While early morning is the best time to snap up the rare finds, 1pm on the closing Sunday is the time to hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price means overpaying. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00. Photography Market F-5, ul. Batorego 10 (Stodoła Club). Discount camera equipment inside the Stodoła ni ghtclub. Lenses, lamps, fil ters, negati ves etc. Hi ghl y recommended for those who take their photography seriously and know what they are looking for. Q Open Sun 10:00-14:00. 128 DIRECTORY Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 129 DIRECTORY October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com France G-4, ul. Piękna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00, www.ambafrance-pl.org. Germany G-4, ul. Jazdów 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, www.warszawa.diplo.de. Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www. embassyofireland.pl. Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05 00, www.israel.pl. Italy F-2, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71, www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it. Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625 33 68, pl.mfa.lt. Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl. Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30, www.amb-norwegia.pl. Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 53, www.rusemb.pl. Spain G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00. Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw. United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk. USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20 00, poland.usembassy.gov. Dentists CCS Ludna G-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01 02, www.ccsludna.pl. DentaLux D-6, ul. Racławicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823 72 22, www.dentalux.pl. Emergency Rooms Szpital Kliniczny Dzieciątka Jezus A-4, ul. Lindleya 4, tel. (+48) 22 502 15 25, www.szpital-clo.med.pl. Szpital na Solcu G-2, ul. Solec 93, tel. (+48) 22 250 62 26, www.cmsolec.pl. Ex-Pat Organizations Alcoholics Anonymous B- 4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3, www.warsawaa.org. Meetings on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 18:30, Fri 20:30 and Sat at 11:00. Meetings at ul. Poznan- ska 38 on Wed at 12:00 and Sun at 13:30. For more info visit the website. Fantasy Role-Playing Group, tel. (+48) 505 441 271, [email protected]. English-language players welcome for game that constructs collective story narratives using high-level language communication and a few simple rules. Wholesome fun, with newcomers always welcome and encouraged. Contact R.A. for dates, times and locations. Internati onal Women’s Group of Warsaw, www.iwgwarsaw.eu. Meeti ngs are hel d twi ce a month on the second Monday at the Sofi tel between 10:30 and 12:30, and on the fourth Monday of the month at Zol ta Kaczka i n Złote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Złota 59) between 10:00 and 11:00. For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact [email protected] Genealogy National Archive B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 7, tel. (+48) 22 635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl. Registry Office E-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443 12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl. International schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.saint-exupery.pl. International American School ul. Dembego 18 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 140 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies- warsaw.pl. The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotów), tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl. Language schools Edu&More B- 4, ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok.81, tel. (+48) 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com. Go from seeing Polish as a pile of consonants to fluency with the fast and effective tutors at Edu & More. Individual and group lessons are tailor made to your capabilities, learn business Polish to help with your job and busy students can opt for online lessons. Bonus: your initial meeting with a tutor is free of charge. The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 20, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl. Private clinics Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 566 22 22, www.damian.pl. English-speaking doctors available. Lux-Med A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Ho- tel), tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. Also on ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78 (E-1), ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6) and ul. Wołoska 7. Real estate Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) 22 596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl. Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors B-4, Al. Jerozolim- skie 123a, tel. (+48) 22 528 54 54, www.ober-haus.pl. Long established experts in residential, office, logistics and retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics. Founded in 1994 the database includes all types of large and small flats, luxury suites, houses and villas. Religious Services St Paul’s English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3, ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsawcatho- lics.pl. English-language mass held each Sunday at 11:30. Relocation companies AGS Worldwide Movers ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com. Take the stress out of an international move with reliable AGS, who offer a range of independent services to complement their turnkey re- movals solutions. Free quotes can be requested via their website. Move One Relocations F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com. PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com. Translators & Interpreters Komputekst ul. Międzyborska 82 (Praga-Południe), tel. (+48) 22 825 40 50, www.komputekst.pl. 24-hour pharmacies Apteka G-5, ul. Puławska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 37 57, www.apteka.jollymed.pl. Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarności 149, tel. (+48) 22 620 08 18. Business associations American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520 59 99, www.amcham.pl. British Polish Chamber of Commerce F-3, ul. Nowogrodzka 12/3, tel. (+48) 22 622 20 56, www. bpcc.org.pl. Computer repair Cartridge World ul. Marszałkowska 58, tel. (+48) 22 622 81 24, www.cartridgeworld.pl. iSource C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library), tel. (+48) 22 550 86 86, www.isource.pl. Authorized Appl e products servi ce poi nt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Consulates & Embassies Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521 34 44, www.australia.pl. Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl. Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31 00, www.canada.pl. ARK^p]QYSXQYX SX:YVKXN) Get a rouno-up of the ma|or Polish news, business, entertainment ano sports in English each week by subscribing free to our PDF. Visit us at www.newpolanoexpress.pl I t took fve seconds to transform Po- land from a country bustling with confdence into one wracked with grief on a scale not seen since the Second World War. At some point on a nondescript Saturday morning on April 10, the aircraf carrying the president, his wife and 94 others clipped a tree with its lef wing as it approached Smolensk airport in western Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise, before slamming roof frst into the ground. As news of the accident broke in Poland, and one by one television channels interrupted their regular services, news readers struggled to contain their emotions as they realised the devastating blow the Smolensk disaster had dealt the country. Along with President Kaczynski, and Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a who’s who of the Polish elite. Te head of the national bank, the chief of the armed forces, the heads of the navy and air force, two ministers, leading politicians and dozens of others. Many household names in Poland; now all dead. Te irony that the Tupolev Tu-154 crashed at it was carrying a delegation to mark the 70th-anniversary of the Katyn massacre, when Stalin’s henchman slaughtered Poland’s best, was not lost. “Te Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn 70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died there while getting ready to pay homage to the Poles killed there,” said Lech Walesa. Aleksander Kwasniewski, another former president, described Katyn as a “cursed place, and of horrible symbolism”. As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk called the “most tragic event in Poland’s post-war history” thousands began to make their way to the presidential palace in central Warsaw, which was to become the focal point of national mourning. A small patch of fowers and candles lef by mourners expanded and grew, carpeting the pavement and the road in a tribute to those who had died. Political diferences vanquished by grief, thousands upon thousands of people made their way to the palace to pay their respects in quiet dignity. The outpouring of sympathy for the victims spoke volumes for the shock and sadness that had touched Poles; it also spoke volumes for the decency of Poland. At noon on Sunday across the nation two minutes silence was observed in memory of the people that died in the air crash in Smolensk. Te silence was then pierced by the claxons and sirens of local authority warning systems and police vehicles. To this mournful orchestra of wails, the Pol- ish nation stood to attention and refected on their loss in the forests near Katyn. Te parents of the pilot in charge of fying the presidential plane have begged the world not to blame their son for the crash. Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the man responsible for landing the Polish Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still unknown, he was unable to successfully carry out his task. Te tragic death of the head of the National Bank of Poland Slawomir Skrzypek in Saturday’s plane crash leaves questions open about who will replace him, and how his loss will afect monetary policy and other issues. Te succession issue is a major one, since both the parliament and the president must make the choice jointly. ?bZQ]ZePYXTY`_P^ /ZYq_MWLXP[TWZ_ 9-;TY_`]XZTW ;ZWLYOST_Md^PNZYO6L_dY_]LRPOd .Z`Y_]dNZXP^_ZRP_SP] _Z XZ`]YaTN_TX^ </1398+6 Z! 8+>398+6 Z ,?=38/== Z# Frica, 1ót| Apri| 2010 Fc|is| Ncws anc Entcrtainncnt © w w w.prezydent.pl Issue 15 (óó) Warsaw’s Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nation’s grief Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but as with most international destinations it is still worth keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every two months. Here were their buying rates (how many zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for the 17.09.12 compared to the following National Bank of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro 1 = 4,0289zł, US$ 1 = 3,0657zł, GBP 1 = 4,9718zł. Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626 92 60, www.aurex.biz. 1 Euro = 4.13zl, 1 Dollar = 3.16zl, 1 Pound = 5.08zl, No commission. Kantor A-4, Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 (level 0), tel. (+48) 22 222 12 34. 1 Euro = 4.00zl, 1 Dollar = 3.04zl, 1 Pound = 4.94zl, No commission. Pekao SA ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 51 88, www. pekao.com.pl. 1 Euro = 3.75zł, 1 Dollar = 2.91zł, 1 Pound = 4.63zł, 5% commission for euro and pound, 3% for dollars. Currency exchange Boutique 1 - ul. Nowomiejska 2 - ul. Piesza 3 - ul. Fandaminskiego 1 2 3 C a s tle In n C o p e r n ic u s S c ie n c e C e n t r e £owicka L e c h ic k a N a t io n a l S t a d iu m T e a m H o s te l Ib is W a r s z a w a R e d u ta All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides warsaw.inyourpocket.com Online Mobile Print 136 STREET REGISTER Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 137 October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com 1 Sierpnia D-6/7 29 Listopada H-4 Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5) Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2) Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2) Archiwalna D-5 Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4 Bagatela G-4/5 Bagno B-3 Banachago D/E-5 Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2) Barbary, św. B-4, (F-3) Barokowa B-2 Barona D-2 Batorego E/F-5 Bednarska B/C-2 Bellottiego D-2 Belwederska G-5/6 Biała A-3 (E-2) Białobrzeska D-4/5 Bielańska B-2 (F-2) Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5 Bobrowskiego D-5 Boduena B-3 Bohaterów Getta A-2 (E/F-1) Bohdanowicza D-6 Boleść B-1 Boni fraterska A/B-1 Bracka C-4 Browarna C-2/3 (G-2) Brylowska D-3 Brzeska H-1 Brzozowa B-1 Bugaj B-1/2 Bytnara F-6/7 Canaletta B-2 Celna B-1/2 Chałubińskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4) Chełmska H-6 Chłodna A-3 (D/E-2) Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3) Chocimska G-5 Chodkiewicza E-5/6 Chopina G-4 Ciasna B-1 Ciepła A-3 (E-2) Cicha C-3 Corazziego B-2 Czackiego B-3 (F-2) Czerniakowska G/H-3 Czerska H-5/6 Czeska H-2 Dąbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6) Dawna B-1/2 Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3) Dickensa D-5 Długa A/B-1/2 (F-1) Długosza D-2 Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2) Dobrzańskiego A-3 Dolna G-6 Drewniana C-3 Dubois A-1 (E-1) Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2) Dzika D/E-1 Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2) Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3) Esperanto E-1/2 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7 Filtrowa E-4 Floriańska G-1 Foksal C-3 (G-3) Franciszkańska A/B-1 Francuska H-2 Frascati C-4 Fredry B-2 (F-2) Freta B-1 (F-1) Furmańska C-2 (F/G-2) Gagarina G-5 Gałczyńskiego C-3 Gamerskiego B-2 Geodetów D-5 Gęsta C-2 Gibalskiego D-2 Górnośląska H-3 Górska H-5/6 Górskiego B/C-3 Goszczyńskiego F/G-6 Goworka G-5 Graniczna B-3 Grodzka C-2 Grójecka D/E-4/6 Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3) Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3 Grzymały D-4 Hoża B/C-4 (F/G-3) Hynka D-7 Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7 Inflancka A-1 Iwicka H-5 Jaktorowska D-3 Jana Pawła II, al. A-2/4, (D/E-1/3) Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6 Jasielska D-6 Jasna B-3, (F-2/3) Jazdów G-4 Jerozolimskie, Al. A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4) Joliot-Curie F-7 Kacza D-2 Kaliska D-4 Kanonia B-2 Kapitulna B-2 Karasia C-3 Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2) Karolkowa D-2/3 Karowa C-2 (F/G-2) Kasprzaka D-3 Kazimierzowska F-5 Kępna H-1 Kilińskiego B-1/2 Klonowa G-5 Kłopotowskiego G-1 Kolberga F-7 Kolejowa D/E-3/4 Konduktorska G-6 Konopnickiej C-4 Konstytucji, pl. F-4 Konwiktorska A/B-1 Kopernika C-3 Kopińska D-4 Korotyńskiego D-6 Kościelna B-1 (E/F-1) Koszykowa E/G-4 Kotlarska D/E-2/3 Kozia B-2 Koźla B-1 (F-1) Krakowskie Przedmieście B/C-2/3, (F-2) Krasickiego F/G-7 Krasińskich, pl. B-2 (F-1) Krasnołęcka H-5 Kredytowa B-3 (F-2) Krochmalna A-3 (E-2) Królewska B-3 (F-2) Krucza C-4 (F/G-3) Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2) Krywulta C-3 Krzywe Koło B-1 Krzywickiego E-4 Książęca C-4 (G-3) Kubusia Puchatka C-3 Kusocińskiego G/H-4 Kwiatowa F-5 Lądowa G-5 Lechicka D-7 Lenartowicza F/G-6/7 Lennona G-4 Leszczyńska C-3 Leszno D-2 Leszowa E/F-4/5 Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1) Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4) Lipowa C-2 Litewska G-4 Lubelska H-1 Ludna G/H-3 Ludowa G-6 Lwowska F-4 Łazienkowska H-4 Łucka A-3 (E-3) Madalińskiego F/G-5/6 Majewskiego D-5 Małachowskiego, pl. B-3 Malczewskiego F/G-6 Mariańska A-3 Mariensztat C-2 Markowska H-1 Marszałkowska B-2/4 (F-2/4) Matejki C-4 Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2) Miączyńska E-6/7 Miedziana A-4 (E-3) Miła A-1 (D/E-1) Miłobędzka E-6 Miodowa B-2 (F-1) Mireckiego D-2 Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2) Młynarska D-2 Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4) Mołdawska D-6 Moliera B-2 (F-2) Moniuszki B-3 Mostowa B-1 (F-1) Muranowska A-1 (E-1) Mysia C-4 Myśliwiecka G/H-4 Na Rozdrożu, pl. G-4 Na Skarpie, al. G-3 Nabielaka G-5 Nalewki A-1/2 Narbutta F/G-5 Narutowicza, pl. D-4 Nehru H-5 Niecała B-2, (F-2) Niemcewicza D/E-4 Niepodległości, al. F/G-4 Niska A-1, (D/E-1) Niska D/E-1 Niżyńskiego Pasaż B-3 Nowiniarska B-1 Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3) Nowolipie A-2 (E-2) Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2) Nowowiejska E/G-4 Nowy Świat C-3/4 (G-2/3) Oboźna C-3 Obozowa D-2 Oczki E/F-3/4 Odolańska F/G-6 Odyńca F/G-6 Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2) Okólnik C-3 Okopowa 1/2-D Okrąg G/H-3 Okrzei G-1 Oleandrów F/G-4 Olimpijska E-6 Olkuska G-6 Olszewska G-5 Olszowa G-1 Ondraszka E-4/5 Opolski, pl. D-2 Ordynacka C-3 (G-2) Orla A-2/3 (E-2) Orłowicza G-3 Ossolińskich B-2 Padewska G-6 Panieńska G-1 Pańska A-3/4 (E-3) Parkowa G-5 Pasteura D-4/5 Paszyna D-1 Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1) Pawińskiego D-5/6 Pereca A-3 (E-3) Piaseczyńska G-6 Piekarska B-2 Piękna F/G-4 Piłsudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2) Piwarskiego G/H-6 Piwna B-2 Płatowcowa E-6 Platynowa E-3 Podchorążych G/H-5 Podwale B-1/2 (F-1) Pokorna A-1 Polna F/G-4 Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2 Powązkowska D-1 Powstańców Warszawy, pl. B-3 Poznańska B-4 (F-3) Promenada G-5/6 Prosta A-4 (D/E-3) Próżna B-3 Prusa C-4 Pruszkowska D-6 Przechodnia A-2/3 Przemyska D-5 Przyokopowa D-3 Przyrynek B-1 Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2) Puławska G-5/7 Pułku Baszta F-7 Pytlasińskiego G-6 Racławicka D/E-6 Radna C-3 Rajców B-1 Rakowiecka E/G-5 Raszyńska E-4 Rejtana G-5 Rokitnicka E-5 Rostafińskich E-5 Róż, al. G-4 Różana F/G-5/6 Rozbrat G-3 Rycerska B-2 Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1) Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2 Rysia B-3 Sandomierska G-5 Sanguszki B-1 Sanocka D-5/6 Sapieżyńska A/B-1 Sasanki D-7 Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2) Schillera B-2 (F-1) Siedmiogrodzka D-3 Sielecka H-5/6 Siemieńskiego D-5 Sienkiewicza B-3 Sienna A-4 (E-3) Skaryszewska H-1 Skarżyńskiego D-5 Skierniewicka D-3 Skorochód D-5/6 Sławińska D-3/4 Słoneczna G-5 Słupecka D-4 Smocza D/E-1/2 Smolna C-3/4 Sokola G/H-1/2 Solec G/H-2/3 Solidarności, al. A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2) Sosnowa A-4 Spacerowa G-5 Spartańska E-7 Spiska D/E-4 Srebrna F-3 Stara B-1 Starościńska F/G-5 Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3 Staszica D-2 Stawki A-1 (D/E-1) Stefana Batorego E/F-5 Stępińska H-5/6 Sulkiewicza G-5 Szara G-3 Szarych Szeregów D-3 Szczęśliwicka D-4 Szczygla C-3 Szkolna B-3 Szpitalna B-3/4 Szucha, al. G-4 Szwoleżerów H-4 Śliska A-4 Świętojańska B-2 Świętojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1) Świętokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3) Tagore’a F-6 Tamka C-3 (G-2) Targowa G/H-1 Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2) Tłomackie A/B-2 Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza B-2/3 Topiel C-3 Towarowa D/E-2/3 Traugutta B/C-3 Trębacka B-2 Trojdena, ks. D/E-5 Trzech Krzyży, pl. C-4 (G-3) Tuwima C-3 Twarda A-3/4 (E-3) Tyniecka G-6/7 Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5 Ursynowska F/G-6 Wał Miedzeszyński H-2/3 Walecznych H-2 Waliców A-3 (E-2/3) Wałowa A-1/2 (E-1) Warecka B/C-3 (F-2) Waryńskiego F/G-4/5 Wąski Dunaj B-2 Wawelska D/F-4 Widok B-4 Wiecha Pasaż B-3/4 Wiejska C-4 (G-3) Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2) Wiktorska F/G-6 Wilanowska H-3 Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4) Wileński pl. G-1 Willowa G-5 Winnicka D-5 Wioślarska H-3 Wiślana C-2 Wiślicka D-5/6 Wiśniowa F/G-5, F/G-6 Witosa, al. H-6/7 Wodna B-1 Wójtowska B-1 Wolność D-2 Wołoska E/F-6/7 Wolska D-3 Woronicza E/G-7 Wronia E-2/3 Wspólna A/C-4 (F-3) Wybrzeże Gdańskie B/C-1/2, (F-1) Wybrzeże Helskie C-1 (G-1) Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie C-2, (G-1/2) Wybrzeże Szczecińskie C-1/2, (G-1/2) Ząbkowska H-1 Zajęcza C-3 (G-2) Zakroczymska B-1 Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1) Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1) Zamoyskiego H-1 Zapiecek B-2 Zawiszy, pl. E-3 Zbawiciela, pl. F-4 Zbierska G/H-5/6 Zgoda B-3/4 Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2 Zielna B-3 Zimna A-3 Złota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3) Zoli G-4 Zwycięzców H-3 Żelazna A-3/4 (E-2/3) Żelaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2) Żurawia B/C-4 (F/G-3) Żwirki i Wigury D/E-4/7 Żytnia D-2 BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix 33 BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos 33 Boutique Bed & Breakfast 31 Camera 34 Campanile 31 Castle Inn 31 Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport 33 Emma 35 Fest Hostel 35 Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 31 Gromada - Dom Chłopa 31 H15 Boutique Apartments 34 Hetman 32 Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre 30 Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport 33 Holiday Inn Warszawa 30 Hyatt Regency Warsaw 28 Chmielna Guest House 31 Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum 33 Ibis Ostrobramska 32 Ibis Stare Miasto 32 Ibis Warszawa Centrum 32 InterContinental 28 InterContinental 34 Le Méridien Bristol 28 Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw 28 Mamaison Residence Diana Warsaw 34 Maria 32 Marriott 28 MDM 32 Metropol 32 Moon 35 Noclegi Okęcie 33 Novotel Warszawa Airport 33 Novotel Warszawa Centrum 30 Oki Doki 35 P&O Apartments 34 Polonia Palace Hotel 30 Premiere Classe 33 Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel 29 Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel 30 Residence St. Andrew's Palace 34 Reytan 32 Rialto 29 Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 29 Sleepwell Apartments 32 Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 29 Start Hotel Aramis 33 Start Hotel Atos 34 Team Hostel 35 The Westin Warsaw Hotel 29 Adler 40 Amber Room 52 Atelier Amaro 52 Bagno Food & Wine 42 Banja Luka 38 Bar Gruziński Argo 40 Bar Mleczny Familijny 47 Bar Salad Story 48 Bar Vega 61 Barn Burger 54 Belvedere 52 Besuto 49 Bierhalle 42 Biosfeera 61 Bistro Piąta Ćwiartka 53 Bistro Warszawa 53 Blue Cactus 59 Bonsai 49 Browar de Brasil 38 BrowArmia 42 Buddha Indian Restaurant 40 Burger Bar 54 Burger King 48 C.K. Oberża 40 Casa Pablo 58 Cesarski Pałac 38 Cesarski Pałac (Tsinghis Chan) 51 Concept 42 DeCoteria 42 Delicja Polska 53 Dom Polski 53 El Greco 40 Festa Italiana Ristorante 47 Five 43 Flow 43 Folk Gospoda 54 Frida 59 Fusion 40 Galeria Freta 43 GR Bistro & Restaurant 44 Grand Kredens 44 Green Bar 61 Groole 48 Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone 44 Halka restauracja po polsku 54 Hard Rock Cafe 36 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 39 China Garden 38 Chłopskie Jadło 53 Il Patio 48 Inaba 49 Kamanda Lwowska 61 Kaprys 54 Kaya Sushi 49 KFC 48 Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery 50 Kintaro Sushi 50 Kosmos Kosmos 44 La MaMa 36 La Rotisserie 39 La Tomatina 48 Le Cedre 84 51 Legends British Bar & Restaurant 38 Leniwa Gospodyni 47 Literatka 54 Little Thai Gallery 60 LOKAL.BISTRO 54 Maho 60 Masz Gulasz 54 McDonald's 48 MG Eat Magda Gessler 48 Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 47 Na Brackiej 56 Na Zielnej 44 Nam Sajgon 61 Namaste India 40 Namaste India Clay Oven 40 Natara 60 Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem 56 Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant 59 Olive Garden 51 Osteria 58 OTO!SUSHI 50 Papaya 40 Paros 51 Piekna 56 45 Pierrogeria 56 Pizza Hut 48 Planet Sushi 50 Podwale - Kompania Piwna 45 Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu 56 Prosta Historia 54 Radio Café 56 Rambam Kosher Cafe & Restaurant 51 Restauracja Concept 13 45 Restauracja Kultura 45 Restauracja Różana 57 Restauracja Wilanów 45 Restaurant @Ferdy's 45 Restro 46 Roma 48 Roma Bukieteria 48 Royal Menu 48 Saffron Spices 40 Saint Jacques 39 SAM Restaurant & Bakery 46 Sioux 36 Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny 46 Słony 57 smaczneGO! 61 Socjal 46 Sol y Sombra 59 Solec 44 46 SomePlace Else 36 Soul Kitchen 46 STO900 47 Strauss Restaurant 57 Subway 48 Sunanta 60 Sushi To 50 T.G.I. Friday's 36 Tamka 43 47 The Mexican 59 The Oriental 39 LISTINGS INDEX P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled R Internet L Guarded parking F Fitness centre G No smoking K Restaurant X Smoking room available D Sauna C Swimming pool E Live music W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendl y S Take away I Fireplace J Old Town location Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery Symbol Key WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS 138 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com LISTINGS INDEX Theatro 40 Tomo Sushi 50 Top Fish 58 Trattoria Rucola 48 U Barssa 57 U Fukiera 57 U Kucharzy 58 U Szwejka 39 Villa Foksal 47 Warsaw Tortilla Factory 60 Wiking 47 You & Me 47 Zapiecek 58 Blikle Café 62 Bubbleology 62 Cafe Baguette 62 Cafe Próżna 62 Café Vincent 62 Chłodna 25 62 Coffee Karma 62 Costa Coffee 62 Green Caffe Nero 62 Lody na Patyku 62 Loft 62 Ministerstwo Kawy 62 Moments Tasty Life 63 Mount Blanc Pijalnia Czekolady i Kawy 63 Petit Appetit 63 Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel 63 Słodki Słony 63 Starbucks Coffee 63 To Lubię 63 Wawel 63 Bank Club 71 Bar Tektura 64 Bar Warszawa de Luxe 65 Beirut Hummus & Music Bar 64 Bierhalle 64 Bierhalle 73 British Bulldog Pub 64 BrowArmia 73 Bufet Centralny 64 Cafe Kulturalna 65 Club Capitol 71 Club Mirage 71 Coyote Bar & Night Club 75 de lite club 72 Dekada 72 Fabryka Trzciny 72 Fantom 67 Foksal XVIII 72 Hard Rock Cafe 65 Hydrozagadka 65 Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant 65 Jimmy Bradley's 65 JP's Bar 66 Jung & Lecker 68 Kafefajka 66 Klaps 66 Kokomo 75 Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia 66 Kwadrat 66 Legends British Bar & Restaurant 66 Legends British Bar & Restaurant 68 Libido Gentleman's Club 75 Lokal Użytkowy 67 Lolek 67 Małe Piwo 67 Meta na Foksal 65 Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 69 Mielżyński 68 New Orleans Gentlemen's Club 75 Opera 72 Organza 72 Panorama Bar & Lounge 67 Paparazzi 67 Patrick's Irish Pub 68 Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 68 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 65 Plan B 68 Platinium Club 73 Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 68 Przekąski Zakąski 65 Room 13 Club & Lounge 73 Saturator 68 Sheesha Lounge 69 Sketch 69 Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny 69 Sofia 75 SomePlace Else 68 SomePlace Else 69 Śródmiejska 69 The Pictures Art Bar Cafe 69 Tygmont 69 Utopia 73 Vinoteka 13 & WINE BAR 68 W Oparach Absurdu 70 Warsaw Tortilla Factory 68 Warsaw Tortilla Factory 70 Warszawa Powiśle 70 Warszawska 65 Watch Me 73 Znajomi Znajomych 70 All Saints' Day 82 Ask your Concierge 30 Breakfast 60 Burgers 54 Cemeteries 89 Climate 17 Credit Card Charges 124 Currency exchange 128 Disaster at Smolensk 29 Eating at a glance 36 Elektoralna & Chłodna 8 Facts & Figures 17 Fast Food & Delivery 48 Gay Warsaw 67 Gestapo HQ 86 Have Your Say 43 Hot Beer 61 Chocolate Lounges 63 Jan III Sobieski 110 Kościuszko Monument 84 Krakowskie Przedmieście 1 80 Krakowskie Przedmieście 1 81 Language Smarts 19 Late Night Eats 65 Legia Warszawa 119 Lodgings at a glance 28 Market Values 18 Milk Bars 47 National Anthem 72 National Holidays 19 National Stadium 118 Night at a glance 64 Palmiry 90 Parks 88 Polish Alcohol 70 Polish Friends of Beer Party 66 Polonia Warszawa 119 Presidential Palace 87 Quick Currency Convertor 18 Ronald Reagan Monument 92 Rosa Luxembourg 83 Royal Castle 91 Shopping at a Glance 122 Smoking 38 Smoking 71 Stanislaw Poniatowski 85 Street Signs 13 The Citadel 86 The Incomes House 59 Tipping Tribulations 45 Vice Advice 74 Warsaw Central Station 16 Warsaw Historical Timeline 77 Witold Pilecki 31 Zlota 44 32 Features index CAFÉS NIGHTLIFE TOMO ul. Krucza 16/22, 00-562 Warszawa tel. (22) 434-23-44 tel. 508-12-22-12 www.tomo.pl 1 1 F r a n c u s k a S t . , W a r s a w , P h . 2 2 6 1 6 2 4 3 2 , 2 2 6 1 6 2 4 8 8 , w w w . r e s t a u r a c j a d o m p o l s k i . p l M o n d a y t o F r i d a y 1 2 : 0 0 - 1 6 : 0 0 , D o m P o l s k i i n v i t e s a l l g u e s t s t o a s p e c i a l l u n c h m e n u i n p r i c e 5 5 p l n p e r p e r s o n E V E R Y S U N D A Y , W E I N V I T E Y O U T O O U R B R U N C H ! F r o m 1 3 : 0 0 t o 1 6 : 3 0 , i t ' s o n l y 7 9 p l n p e r p e r s o n

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