tirana

N°7 - 500 lektirana.inyourpocket.com Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps TIRANA Traditional wear The Spahiu Collection Tirana Rocks The domino district January - June 2010 “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times 3 CONTENTS January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Arriving in Tirana 5 How to get here Glossary 6 Tirana from A to Z History 8 Occupations, liberations, damnations Culture 9 Cinemas & theatre Traditional dress 10 Delicately embroidered works of art Where to stay 11 A good night’s sleep for €5, or €2530 Restaurants 23 From Albanian to Japanese, Tirana has it all Cafés 30 Sip your kafe ekspres here Nightlife 31 Drink and dance the night away Contents What to see 35 Mosque, tower, horse Around town 39 Mountains, caves, castles and towns Getting around 40 Planes, buses, trains and cars Language 46 Speak shqip Shopping 48 Souvenirs, fashion and malls Mail & Phones 50 Keeping in touch Directory 51 From banks to real estate agents Maps & Index City map & Street register 60-61 Index 62 Palm trees conceal the Tirana International Hotel Selling persimmon fruit along the airport road www.inyourpocket.com Located amidst government buildings and embassies in the heart of Tirana, this new complex is the capital’s only 5-star hotel and the unrivalled choice for international travelers and impeccable business events. Shops, bars and restaurants await you right outside in the Sheraton Plaza Shopping Mall, just moments from your room. 151 rooms, including 95 deluxe rooms, 55 suites and the Presidential Suite 50 Club rooms with exclusive access to the Club Lounge “Metropolitan” Restaurant offering Albanian and international cuisine “Infinity” Bar & Terrace Function rooms for over 500 guests Indoor and outdoor swimming pools Health club with fitness centre and sauna Shopping Mall with a variety of shops & cafés and a cinema “Il Pomodoro” Food Court located in the Shopping Mall Sheshi Italia, Tirana, Albania Tel: +355 42 274707 Fax +355 42 274711 [email protected] www.sheraton.com/tirana 4 Tirana In Your Pocket FOREWORD tirana.inyourpocket.com 5 January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com For once, Albania made all the right headlines in 2009. Foreign tourism boomed as backpackers and increasing numbers of cultural travellers discovered the country, and business was not as bad as it could have been, with the country registering one of the few positive growth rates in Europe. On the ground in Tirana, it’s been a busy year with plenty of new restaurants and hotels opening up, all of them reviewed in this new edition. Tirana In Your Pocket enjoyed growing popularity in 2009 too, and we’ve fattened the guide by 12 pages this issue. One exciting new story regards the building of the much-discussed Tirana Rocks project, several large blocks seemingly dropped on the lakeside in the city centre, which may well come to define Tirana’s new look (if they don’t run out of money first). See page 58 for the details. Our special feature this issue concerns Albania’s veritable treasure trove of traditional costumes. There are 300 different types of dress in this small country, and these beautiful costumes and items can be viewed at Tirana’s National Museum as well as at the private Spahiu collection; see page 10. Like everything in the Albania, Tirana In Your Pocket is continuously under construction and your comments and tips are welcomed. Add your personal review for any place you like (or hate) to our website, or write in to [email protected]. By plane Tirana’s gleaming Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa) airport, 17km northwest of Tirana, is a 30-45 minute drive from the city centre. Beside the baggage carousel in arrivals there’s an ATM, a BKT currency exchange office with so-so rates and the airport’s tourism information desk. Buy a local SIM card at the Vodafone or Eagle Mobile shops. Ignore the taxi drivers harassing new arrivals, but take an official yellow airport taxi to the centre for 2000 lek, or 2500 lek at night. Alternatively, hop on the hourly Rinas Express airport bus (250 lek) to Skanderbeg Square, departing every hour between 08:00 and 19:00. By train Albania has no international passenger trains. Weary rail arrivals from Shkodra, Durrës and Pogradec will find them- selves deposited at Tirana’s garden shed train station, at the northern end of Blv. Zogu I. It’s a 15-20 minute walk down this boulevard to Skanderbeg Square, a short taxi ride or a hop on any bus heading that way from the bus stop across the street. ARRIVING Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Tirana In Your Pocket 2006-2010. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76). Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. By bus Tirana has skipped the ‘build a bus station’ stage of urban evolution, and buses drop off passengers at various points along the ring road; from there you’ll need a taxi or city bus to get to the centre. By car Driving to Albania is an option now that roads and safety have greatly improved - but don’t expect to get there quickly. Coming from Greece, expect long queues and grinding bureaucracy on both sides of the border. The Kakavija and Kapshtica crossings are open 24hrs; Qafë Boti near Konispol and Tre Urat near Permet open till 22:00. From Macedonia, Qafë Thanë is the main crossing, though the Tushemisht crossing near Pogradec is quieter, has beautiful scenery and few delays. Together with the Bllade crossing near Peshkopi they are all open till 22:00; the Gorica crossing near Lake Prespa is open till 19:00. From Kosovo, you can quickly cross over at Qafë Morina and Qafë Prush, from Montenegro at Han i Hotit and Muriqan. By ferry Arriving by ferry from Italy is perhaps the most relaxed way of entering the country. There are ferry lines from several Italian cities to the ports of Durrës, Shengjin and Vlora. Flying to Corfu and using the daily ferry to Saranda or the summertime hydrofoils to Saranda/Himara is often the cheapest way to reach South Albania (see www.ionian-cruises.com). The Tirana In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedicated English-language guidebook to Albania‘s capital, and is part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city guides. In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical information that makes visiting the city easier for foreign visitors. As a private and commercial initiative, Tirana In Your Pocket has been written and researched by a team of local and foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the guide are those of the writers, and are not in any way meant to glorify or denigrate the city, merely to point out the merits and shortcomings that we think foreign travellers should know about. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate any information that would lead to improving the next is- sue. Emails can be sent to [email protected]. Udhëzuesi i qytetit Tirana In Your Pocket (‚Tirana në xhe- pin tuaj‘) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i dedikohet kryeqytetit të Shqipërisë, dhe është pjesë e një sërë udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhëzuesit in your pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të sinqerta kritike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit. Si një iniciative private komerciale, Tirana In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hulumtuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhëzues vijnë nga ata, dhe në asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo denigrojnë qytetin, por thjeshtë që të tregojnë meritat dhe mangësitë të cilat ne mendojmë se udhëtarët e huaj duhet t‘i dinë. Çdo udhëzues i ka të metat e veta, prandaj ne do të çmonim çdo informatë që do të çonte në përmirësimin e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në [email protected]. About this guide - Lidhur me këtë udhëzues The sleeve of a precious traditional costume is embroidered with ancient patterns. I t’s part of the Spahi u Collection, Tirana’s foremost private col l ecti on of tradi ti onal Al bani an wear. See page 10 for the full story. Cover story It has been another great year for In Your Pocket. We now publish a record 57 guides and mini-guides across 22 European countries. We print more than four million In Your Pockets annually. In 2009 we laun- ched new guides in Korca, Maribor, Bled, Portoroz, Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Brasov, Lviv and Odesa. In 2010 you can expect to see Prizren, Venice, Vienna and Glasgow - amongst others – Pocketed. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up an IYP. Send us an email to [email protected]. We also want to find out how we can make our guides better, so please take five minutes to complete our online survey at inyourpocket.com/survey. Europe In Your Pocket Editorial Editorial management Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco Fact-checking Rozana Malo, Aldo Merkoci, Sil via Çaushi Layout & Design Tomáš Haman Photos Rentapocket Cover photo Embroidered patterns on a traditional shirt © JvM The TIYP team would like to thank Glenda Pashko, Stavri Çifligu, Ikuko Fujimoto, Marta Karwat, Carol Zachary and our good friends at Avis for their support. Sales & Distribution Manager Alida Karakushi ([email protected], tel. +355 69 306 42 17) Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Jeroen van Marle, Sco Tirana In Your Pocket © Albania Experience Sh.P.K Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Tirana Hotel & Towers 1430 Tirana, Albania Tel. +355 4 227 20 55 Fax +355 4 223 20 15 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1587-2378 Printing Evropa92 Kochani, Macedonia Published 10,000 copies, twice a year “... by far the best coverage of Sofia, Belgrade and Tirana...” The Sun-Herald, Australia, September 7, 2008. “... the most comprehensive source of information about the Albanian capital that you’re likel y to come across...” “Finding information about the region can still be difficul t, but things have got a whole lot better with the launch of Shkodra In Your Pocket.” Balkanology.com, 2008 “...a full overview of sights, hotels, drinking and eating venues in and around Tirana.” Doing Business In Tirana, Tirana municipality, 2008 “We visi ted Tirana as an independent group. In Your Pocket has been an excellent help in providing us the information which we need. There are not any other companies that suppl y honest hotel, restaurant and nightlife info.” Greg Axon, United Kingdom, 4-2-2009 “You are great! Best city guide ever! Keep up the good work!” Igor Simac, 5-4-2009 “Loved your Tirana publication, it was very informative. I know officials read your publication and are sensitive to its message... maybe this will send them one: streets need to be cleaned up and made pedestrian friendl y!” Carol Zachary, USA, 5-5-2009 “I’m eagerl y waiting for the new Tirana and Skopje In Your Pocket guides!” Jonas Eklund, Sweden, 22-5-2009 Others about TIYP Tirana’s new Tourist Information Centre is on Rruga Ded Gjo Luli, right behind the National History Museum. Drop by to get information about the city and copies of Tirana In Your Pocket. See p.44 for more information. Tourist information 6 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com GLOSSARY Body language and sounds Albanians, like Bulgarians, Turks, Indians and a handful of others, shake (or perhaps: wobble) their heads to mean ‘yes’ and nod (or rather jerk the head backwards while emitting a bold cluck) to mean ‘no’. Every time you see it done, it’s a pleasant little culture shock. To attract attention, Albanians cluck, hiss, or in more desperate cases honk madly. Crime & Safety The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source of concern and pride for the locals - a tradition dating back to Illyrian times. Rather than being mugged in Albania, you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Still, it’s a good idea to apply the universal rules: stay alert at all times, hide valuables or leave them at home, don’t wander around unlit areas at night. Be very careful where you walk - if there’s not a missing manhole lid, there’s another kind of big hole or bump, bits of sharp metal sticking out of the concrete, garbage or dog shit. Bring a torch as even in cities it can be pitch dark at night away from the main streets. Driving & Roads The roads may be improving rapidly, Albanians remain the worst drivers in Europe. Easily distracted, always using one or two hands for talking on the phone and smoking, eager to honk, disrespectful of speed limits, ignorant about the merits of seatbelts, stopping in the middle of the road to chat with a pedestrian relative, and inconsiderate to other road users, they overtake in corners at high speeds in their Mercedes as if they were still riding donkeys. That said, city-centre traffic usually only crawls along at 20-30km/hr with little risk of damage. Before 1991, only Party officials were allowed to own and drive around in cars and there were only about 600 cars in Albania, many of them deluxe Mercedes and Volvos. When the restriction was lifted, Albanians brought thousands of cars into the country from Germany, Italy and Greece. At the time, there were no traffic regulations, no driver’s license requirements, no traffic enforcement and no traffic lights. Much of this has changed, but driving still requires nerves of steel and a good map. The maximum speed is 40km/hr in urban areas and villages, 80km/hr outside these areas, 90km/hr on dual carriageways and 110km/hr on highways. Drivers should have a fire extinguisher, yellow vest and first aid kit in the car, and always drive with the lights on. In mountain areas having snow chains is a good idea in winter. Heal th Although the locals say the water is safe to drink, it’s probably best to stick to bottled water, which is readily available and of excellent quality. Albanian cities can be very dusty, so contact-lens wearers should carry eye drops with them or consider wearing glasses. Up-to-date tetanus and hepatitis-B inoculations are recommended if you want to play it safe and are staying some length of time in Albania, particularly in rural areas. In case of problems, see the list of clinics in the directory. Getting health insurance that covers an airlift to another country in case of serious problems is a good idea. Money The Albanian currency is the lek (plural leke). The exchange rate is: €1 = 135 lek, £1 = 153 lek, US$1 = 95 lek (December 2009), going down by 10% on the euro and dollar in 2009 after years of stability. Banknotes come in denominations of 200, 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 lek, while there are coins of 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 lek. Although hotels and some other businesses quote prices in euros or dollars, payment is mostly required in lek. I f payment in foreign currency is possible, it usually means you’re getting a bad rate (sometimes 100 lek for €1) so don’t fall for it. When asking for prices in daily life, beware the curious habit Albanians have of telling you the price in ‘old leks’ with an additional zero (so 100 lek becomes 1000 lek). Despite the obvious advantages, this is never used to rip off foreigners, which says a lot about the way visitors are treated in this country. Al bania was the last country in Europe to have ATMs (bankomats) connected to the i nternati onal gri d, but nowadays getting cash using your debit or credit card is no problem. Albanian ATMs do not charge for transactions, though your home bank may. If you insist on bringing along cash foreign currency, you can change your euros or dollars at banks and (better) at exchange offices in town. People who still believe in travellers’ cheques can cash them at most banks at a fee and a long wait. The money men waving wads of banknotes by the statue on Skanderbeg Square offer competitive rates and are generally honest. Spend (most of) your lek before leaving the country as they are worth nothing abroad and there’s no exchange office in the airport’s departure area. Smoking Smoking is officially prohibited in public places since 2007, though the chain-smoking policemen have done little to enforce the law. In 2009 efforts were stepped up, especially in places where food is served, though refusing a client an ashtray is still seen as the graver sin. Visas & Passports Citizens of the EU, most other European countries, US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan can enter Albania without a visa. Other travellers need to get a visa from an Albanian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling to Albania. Before you set off, confirm your entry requirements at the nearest Albanian embassy or consulate. Check all border requirements at www.mfa.gov.al. There is no longer an entry or departure tax. Your passport needs to be valid for six months after departing Albania. EU citizens may enter using an ID card though we suggest still taking your passport anyway as airlines and officials are all too quickly confused. Albania’s population is 3,619,778 (Jul y 2008 estimate). Apart from Albanians living in Albania proper, there are more than two million ethnic Albanians in Kosovo, hun- dreds of thousands in Macedonia and Montenegro, and an estimated two million in the United States, Switzerland, Germany, Greece, Ital y and Canada. Al though Albania is often touted as a majority Muslim country in the foreign press, 70% of the population is estimated to be non- religious or non-practising. Of the others, 21% is Muslim, 6% is Orthodox, and 3% is Catholic. Tirana officiall y has 750,000 inhabi tants (though the real number may be much higher), covers 42 square kilometres and lies at 110m above sea level, though two mountains of 1612m and 1828m also rise within the municipality. The city has some 30,000 students of which nearl y half attend the University of Tirana. Geography At 28.748 square kilometres, Albania is a bit larger than Wales or Maryland. The longest ri vers are the Drini, Semani and Vjosa. The largest lakes are Shkodra, Ohrid and Prespa. The highest mountain is Mt. Korabi near Peshkopi, at 2751m. Basic data Founded by dentists ROLAND ZHUKA and ELIONA PRIFTI as Albania's best dental polyclinic. With a staff of qualified doctors in COSMETIC DENTISTRY, IMPLANTATION, ORTHODONTICS, ORTHOPEDICS, the clinic offers excellent dental services with the latest technology, making PERLADENT one of the most prestigious dental polyclinics in Albania. Clinic 1: Opposite Hotel Diplomat, near the Vasil Shanto bridge. Tel: +355 4 2400 130 Mobile: +355 67 20 555 77, +355 67 20 777 55 Clinic 2: At the entrance to Shijak City Tel: +355 571 232 59 www.perladent.info Y O U R D E N T I S T R Y B R A N D PERLADENT 8 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 9 CULTURE & EVENTS January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com HISTORY By the seventh century BC, the Ill yrians (the apparent ancestors of the Albanian nation) settle in what is now Albania. In 229-168 BC the Romans defeat the Illyrians and establish the protectorate of Illyricum. 4th Century The Roman Empire is divided in 395 AD, and the territory of today’s Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire. 14th Century The Ottomans invade what is now Albania in 1385. Their rule lasts more than 500 years. 15th Century Skanderbeg, the Al bani an l eader, wages a war of independence against the Ottomans starting in 1443 and enjoys remarkable success in keeping them at bay until his death in 1468. 19th Century In the 1830s, the Ottomans crush Albanian autonomy. Uprisings break out over taxation policy in the 1840s. After Russia defeats the Ottoman Empire, the Prizren League is founded in 1878 to fight for autonomy and against the partitioning of Albanian territory. 20th Century Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. Albanians proclaim independence in Vlora on November 28, 1912. The Treaty of London recognises Albania in 1913, but Kosovo is given to Serbia. In 1914, during WWI, Italy invades Albania. In 1920 Albania regains independence. In 1925 Ahmet Zogu becomes president of the new Republic of Albania, but in 1928 Zogu proclaims a kingdom and crowns himself King Zog I. He cooperates with the Italians, who invade again in 1939, occupying Albania until 1943, when the Germans take over until their retreat in November 1944. The Communist-led National Liberation Front takes power. Yugoslavia, Albania’s erstwhile ally, tries to absorb the country, causing Albania to break with Belgrade in 1948. After 1956, when most of Eastern Europe undergoes de-Stalinization, Albania maintains a hardline stance. It criticises the Soviet Union, with which it breaks relations in 1961. In 1968 Albania withdraws from the Warsaw Pact. Albania cultivates relations with China. Imitating Beijing, Albania purges ‘reactionary’ influences. In its own version of the Cultural Revolution in 1967, it outlaws religion and closes all 2169 of the country’s churches and mosques. In 1978 the leadership condemns even China as revisionist and is left with no friends. Party head Enver Hoxha dies on April 11, 1985. 1990 After the totalitarian regimes collapse everywhere else in Eastern Europe, Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia announces cautious democratisation in March. Reform comes slowly. The People’s Assembly rescinds the ban on religion and on travel abroad in May. On December 12 the Democratic Party is founded, Albania’s first non-Communist party in the postwar era. Nine days later, the authorities dismantle the statue of Stalin in Tirana. 1991 In February, students at Enver Hoxha University launch a strike, demanding reforms; weeks of protests culminate in the toppling of Enver Hoxha’s statue in Skenderbeg Square. Waves of refugees flee the country in March. On March 31 the first multi-party elections in 68 years result in a victory for the Communists. In June the faults in the economy become clear when thousands of Albanians seeking asylum in Italy commandeer ships. An estimated 100,000 Albanians had fled the country in the previous 12 months. 1997 Coll apsi ng pyrami d schemes spark months of ri oti ng and lawlessness throughout Albania in January. In June, parliamentary elections, held amidst nationwide unrest, result in a landslide victory for the Socialists. President Berisha, blamed for all owing the pyrami d schemes to flourish, resigns. 1999 In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in Kosovo, NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on March 25. The war turns Albania into a NATO base of operations, and by May 500,000 Kosovars have flooded into the country. 2001 In October, Edi Rama, a former art lecturer and painter supported by the Socialist Party, is elected mayor of Tirana and initiates a series of projects that change the face of the city. 2005 In July, Sali Berisha’s Democratic Party wins the national elections from Fatos Nano’s Socialists. The election results are delayed after allegations of voting irregularities and three deaths. OSCE monitors report that the elections only partially complied with international standards. Novelist Ismail Kadare wins the first international version of Britain’s Man Booker Prize. 2006 Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association Agreement with the EU, the first step towards closer cooperation with the EU. 2007 In June, US president George W. Bush gets a hero’s welcome on his visit to Albania, where he allegedly is robbed of his watch during a meet and greet with the crowds in Fushe Kruja. 2008 March 15 – An accident in a factory used for defusing old munition causes series of explosions, wiping out the village of Gërdec (14km from Tirana), killing 26 and wounding nearly 300 people. The explosions destroy hundreds of houses, shatters windows of cars on the highway, and is heard as far away as Skopje. The defence minister resigns. 2009 April – Albania joins NATO. June – Berisha’s Democratic Party of Albania wins the tight-fought national elections, but does not succeed in getting a majority, requiring a coalition with the Socialist Movement for Integration party. The elections are at first declared to have been fair but soon many irregularities emerge. A political stalemate ensues when the opposition Socialist Party boycotts parliament after a ballot recount is refused. July – Prime Minister Berisha announces that gay marriages will be legalised in Albania, to the delight of the much- discri mi nated LGBT communi ty and to the outrage of religious leaders. The EU announces there will be no visa- free travel for Albanians due to the slow implementation of biometric passports; the shamed government promises results within a year. December – The political stalemate between the Democratic and Socialist Parties continues and starts to harm the country’s progress in reforms and EU admission negotiations. Other European countries urge the hard-headed parties to reach a compromise. British Council I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, pall. 197, tel. +355 4 224 08 56, www.britishcouncil.org.al. Rent or view books, au- dio tapes, and videos (classics and recent blockbusters) or browse teaching materials.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institut H-5/6, Rr. George W. Bush, tel. +355 4 222 20 17. The German cul tural centre has a reading room with textbooks and literature inside the National Library. Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Institute of Culture) H-6, Rr. Pjetër Budi 74, tel. +355 4 237 95 79, www.iictirana.esteri.it. Promotes Italian cul ture and language with cul tural events and language courses. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30-16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. USIS (United States Information Service) H/I-6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 224 72 85. Browse American literature, history books, periodicals and more at this centre beside the US Embassy. Also at the USAID center. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Theatres Metropolitan Center (Cultural Center of Ti- rana) E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, tel. +355 4 225 75 28, [email protected]. A cul tural centre that hosts regular performances by the Tirana City Band, the Spekter childrens' folklore group, the Metropoli tan Theatre group (Teatri i Metropolit) and the Tirana Circus. National Theatre (Teatri Kombëtar) F-4, Rr. Serme- din Said Toptani, tel. +355 4 222 89 33. This is Tirana's oldest theatre, buil t in 1940 to honor Mussolini on his visit to Albania. Performances take place between October and May, and range from Shakespeare to contemporary Albanian and foreign playwrights, though everything is in Albanian. Q Ticket office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00. Puppet Theatre (Teatri i Kukullave) E/F-4, Sheshi Austria, tel. +355 4 222 24 46/+355 4 225 91 04. Occasional puppet shows for children in a grand old building. Event information is notoriously difficult to get - visit the websites of the venues listed here, keep an eye on post- ers around town, and read the English-language papers for upcoming events. Cinemas Academy of Film & Multimedia Marubi Rr. Alek- sandër Moisiu 76, tel./fax +355 4 236 51 88, info@ afmm.edu.al, www.afmm.edu.al. The Academy of Film & Mul timedia, named after Shkodra's famous Marubi photog- rapher famil y, has a cinema with free screenings of foreign movies every Thursday at 19:00 during university term. All are welcome. Find the academy to the northeast of the centre, near the terminus of the Kinostudio bus line. See the English- language website for what's on. Imperial Cinema J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Mall, tel. +355 4 226 63 96, www.imperialcinemas.com. Big Holly- wood productions in two screening rooms, one standard and one 'VIP', inside the Sheraton mall. In summer, there's an additional summer cinema in the Art Academy. Q Tickets 300-600 lek. Millennium 2 Cinema F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Pallati i Pionierit, tel. +355 4 225 36 54/+355 69 204 42 37, www.ida-millennium.com. Inside the former Pioneer Pal- ace, Millennium shows recent American films in their original language with Albanian subtitles. Book in advance for evening and weekend screenings. Screenings at 10:00, 12:30, 15:00, 18:00, 20:30 and 23:00. One fine day, Millenium 1 will reopen in a new building in the city centre. Q Tickets 200-500 lek. Cul tural centres Alliance Française D-4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 122, tel./fax +355 4 222 56 97, tel. +355 4 227 48 41, [email protected], www.aleancafranceze.com. Borrow French books or language- learning materials. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Reservations at: 04 22 53 654 www.ida-millennium.com Address: Rruga Murat Toptani Kompleksi Millennium PLOOHQQLXPFLQHPD 10 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 11 WHERE TO STAY January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com TRADITIONAL DRESS P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled R Dataport L Guarded parking F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant D Sauna C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi Symbol key Until 1991, foreigners could only stay at two dreadful hotels. Things have changed dramatically, and now a wide variety of accommodation is available, with several good new small hotels and hostels. Most are found around the bllok area, and between the main square and the train station. Prices vary dramatically, though you can have an equally good night's sleep in both a top range €2530 suite and a simple €5 guesthouse bed. If you go for budget ac- commodation, be aware that English is not always spoken (try Italian, German or Greek) and ask about their back-up generator if you like heating in winter or a/c in summer. For the full hospitality experience, click to couchsurfing.com, where a few dozen kind Tiranians offer free use of their couch for you to crash on for a few nights. The room prices we list include breakfast unless men- tioned otherwise. Hotel categories are based on the price of the cheapest double room, not on the erratic local star system. Prices are often quoted in euros, but generally have to be paid in Albanian lek. Cream of the crop Top-notch rooms, with doubles priced from €150. Grand H-3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 11, tel./fax +355 4 224 79 96, tel. +355 4 225 32 19, info@grandhoteltirana. com, www.grandhoteltirana.com. Once you’ve walked into the Grand, you might not want to venture out again. This centrall y placed hotel is one of the city’s best, and its small size adds to its charm. The comfy rooms are complete with TV and telephone. The hotel also lays on frills like an indoor swimming pool, jacuzzi and sauna. Q 30 rooms (singles €120, doubles €160). PHALKCW Rogner Europapark H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 223 50 35, fax +355 4 223 50 50, info@tirana. rogner.com, www.hotel-europapark.com. One of Albania’s top hotels, not just for the rooms but also for its reputation as a meeting point for both locals and visitors. The Rogner promises Western standards and delivers - each room is decked out with satellite TV, radio, safe and fax outlet. The lush garden has a tennis court and a swimming pool. The excellent Apollonia res- taurant is on site. Q 137 rooms (100 singles €200, 30 doubles €230, 7 suites €350). PHARULGKDCW Sheraton Tirana Hotel J-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 227 47 07, fax +355 4 227 47 11, reservations.tirana@ starwoodhotels.com, www.sheraton.com/tirana. A huge hotel placed at the southern edge of the city centre, overlook- ing the park. The comfy rooms with ‘sweet sleeper’ beds will suit the needs of any suit, but for the privileged there are the two Club floors with private check-in and lounge. Facilities are top notch, with a heal th club, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, conference facilities, the Metropolitan restaurant and a shopping mall. Room prices vary by season, so check the latest online. Q 151 rooms (singles € 240, 95 doubles €255, 55 suites €380, presidential suite €2530). PHARF LGKDCW Xheko Imperial I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 225 95 75/+355 68 202 97 77, fax +355 4 224 68 52, [email protected], www.xheko-imperial.com. The most glam hotel in town resides along a quiet street in the bllok area. The open jacuzzi bathrooms are any girl’s dream, and the fairy-tale suites with silk-draped four-poster beds are really rather extravagant. There are less frivolous double rooms too, and two excellent restaurants. A taller new annex is under construction behind the building, expected to open in 2010. Q 29 rooms (7 singles €110, 6 doubles €150, 15 suites €250-350). PHAILGBKW Upmarket Reasonably priced luxury; double rooms from €90-140. Arber E-4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 59, tel. +355 4 227 38 11, fax +355 4 227 38 13, reservation@hotelarber. com, www.hotelarber.com. An excellent option hidden in the streets east of the Tirana International hotel. The Arber has small, efficient rooms, and is mercifull y quiet compared to many other hotels. Q 25 rooms (5 singles €70-90, 19 doubles €110, 1 suite €150). PHALKW Brilant Antik F-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 79, tel. +355 4 225 11 66/+355 69 297 74 71, fax +355 4 225 11 67, [email protected], www.hotelbrilant.com. A welcom- ing famil y-run hotel in a quiet, central location. The Brilant Antik has large rooms and a traditionall y furnished Albanian/ Italian restaurant. English is spoken. Q 6 rooms (singles €60, doubles €90, suites €150). PLKW Together with Tirana In Your Pocket, the ci ty’s hotel re- ceptionists are an important source of information for trav- ellers and effectively ambas- sadors for their country. Good receptionists will be able to give you reliable restaurant, sightseeing and activity tips. With this series of interviews, Tirana In Your Pocket intro- duces you to the city’s most important receptionists. In this issue, we speak to Gid Shaqiri, Front Office Coordinator at the Rogner Hotel Europapark in Tirana. Mr. Shaqiri was working in a smaller hotel until he joined the Rogner’s front desk team in 2003. This makes our hotel special... The professional service, unique atmosphere and the central location. And also our beautiful Mediterranean garden with pool of course. Special guests’ requests... We don’t have too many strange requests, though once a guest arrived with all of her eight cats. Special restaurants I recommend... I like to send guests to Villa Logoreci or Mama Rosa for Italian food, or to Sofra e Ariut for Albanian dishes. Special sights I recommend... I send guests to the National Museum, up to Dajti Mountain, and to Petrela Castle. Tirana In Your Pocket... is very helpful to us as there is a lot of complex and well-arranged information for tourists and business people. Meet the receptionist Linda and her son Luris are perhaps Tirana’s most fervent collectors and restorers of traditional Albanian costumes; they even sold the family house and moved into a rented apartment to be able to purchase more clothes. Although they do not have a permanent exhibi- tion space yet, they are happy to show their collection and sell some items to interested visitors; the photos on this page are from some of their top pieces, which include waistcoats, heavy woollen embroidered xhubleta skirts, and delicate tablecloths. Visits to their home and storage space along the road to Elbasan can be booked via tel. +355 68 304 26 64/+355 68 212 10 08 or atelielinda@ hotmail.com; Luris speaks English and French. Take a taxi or bus to the first roundabout after the Martyr’s Cemetery and you’ll be met there. There’s no admission fee, but donations to help upkeep the collection are welcome. Linda Spahiu Collection Albania's rich and varied cultural heritage is perhaps best demonstrated by the incredible range of traditional clothing. For many centuries, the Albanians' clothing allowed strangers to learn all kinds of things about them at a single glance; region of origin, marital status, the family's wealth and standing, ethnicity, age, and more. During religious, social and other special occasions, clothing was a kind of passport, and within Albania there are about 300 different traditional costumes, each linked to a specific area or even village. Clothes were made by specialised craftsmen and women with cotton, wool and imported silk, and decorated with colours, embroidered symbols, themes like the Albanian eagle, natural scenes and patterns, incorporating gold and silver thread and small river pearls. Curiously, embroidering was a craft that was only done by men. Styles and fashions changed over the years as new material s and trends emerged, but the distinct regional variety remained. The artisans were so famed that Albania became a centre of production for the wider region, and positioned along the old trade routes between west and east, local craftsmen had access to all manner of quality materials. As the use of traditional clothing waned in the 20th century, the cultural and also the real value of these items was forgotten, and many costumes and related objects were lost due to carelessness and decay. Apart from the state museums, there are only ten serious collectors of traditional wear in Albania, but it's thanks to them that people have been made aware of the importance of preserving old traditional wear. A recent law prohibiting the export of items older than 50 years from Albania has ironically increased the illegal and unprofessional export of antiques and traditional clothing, leading to identity mix-ups with some Albanian traditional clothing being exhibited abroad as being from other countries in the region. Albania has huge costume collections, the National Museum alone has 30,000 artefacts, but only a small amount is exhibited. Places to view costumes, apart from Tirana's Nati onal Museum and Spahi u Col l ecti on, i ncl ude the Ethnographic Museums of Shkodra, Berat and Gjirokastra and the Tradi ta G&T guesthouse i n Shkodra, though unfortunately the museum displays are often dull, with little in the way of explanations. Thankfully, costumes are attracting more and more local and international interest, and both private and state collections are increasingly accessible. 12 WHERE TO STAY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Chateau Linza Qesarakë, Linza, Komuna e Dajtit, tel. +355 69 203 00 03/+355 69 203 00 09, ada@chateau- linzahotel.com, www.chateaulinzahotel.com. Along the road out of town towards Mount Daj ti, the resort-style Linza hotel is a foreigner favourite for the sweeping city views from its hillside location. Rooms and apartments are modern and spacious, and it’s well-equipped for meetings and conferences too. Q 21 rooms (singles €90-110, doubles €110-150, 45 apartments €150-190). PHAFLKCW hhhh Diplomat F-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha 5, tel. +355 4 223 31 51/+355 4 225 84 68, fax +355 4 223 04 57, [email protected], www.hoteldiplomathy.com. Wi th a light Scandinavian feel and and enthusiastic staff, the Diplomat has three floors of excellent, parquet-floored rooms and a terracotta terrace with bar on the roof. Q 14 rooms (5 singles €100, 9 doubles €140). PHALKW Diplomat Fashion Rr. Irfan Tomini, tel. +355 4 223 50 90/+355 4 226 72 19, fax +3554 232 07 49, reserva- [email protected], www.diplomatfashion.com. A different city on every floor. On the New York, Milan and Paris-themed floors, rooms have decorations on the walls, cupboards and even the ceilings. Downstairs is a pleasant library and TV area, a few conference rooms and a small fitness and sauna centre. Just west of the centre along Bl v. Bajram Curri. Q 26 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €130- 160). PHARLGDW Green House G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 4 222 26 32/+355 68 207 22 62, [email protected], www. greenhouse.al. A small and charming business hotel above the eponymous restaurant on a quiet street near all the ac- tion. With well-designed boutique rooms, some with shower and some also with a bath, great suites and wifi throughout, it’s a comfortable base. Q 10 rooms (singles €100, doubles €110, suites €130-150). PALKW MonarC F-5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 4 227 45 11, fax +355 4 227 45 00, [email protected], www.monarc. al. The MonarC is a classic-looking yellow building on a busy crossing in the centre, overlooking the Lana river. With onl y 12 rooms, ample attention has been made to details, and the interiors are characterised by sleek dark design and the suites come with particularly classy Jacuzzis. Despite double glazing, street noise is an issue in some rooms, and there’s no parking on-site. Head to the top floor for the bar with a waterfall and 360 degree city views. Q 12 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100-120, suites €130). PKW Mondial F-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel./fax +355 4 223 23 72, [email protected], www.hotel- mondial.com.al. An elegant and modern hotel with plush pleasant rooms that favour shades of brown to more frivolous colours. It’s a kilometre from the centre, 50m from Sheshi Mustafa Qemal Ataturk. Q 28 rooms (singles €90, doubles €110, 6 suites €130). PHALKCW Tirana International E-4, Sheshi Skenderbej 8, tel. +355 4 223 41 85, fax +355 4 223 41 88, hotel@hotelti- rana.com.al, www.hoteltirana.com.al. Buil t in the 1970s with help of the Chinese, for years Tirana’s main landmark was the only highrise in the country, with propaganda slogans on the roof and escape tunnels for the elite. Now thoroughl y modernised, the rooms meet international standards and the hotel is especiall y popular for conferences. The higher floors offer great views over town and the mesmerising traffic on the square. Go online for their special weekend rates. Q 154 rooms (singles €78-149, doubles €91-174, suites €198). PHARFLGKDW Rr. Ismail Qemali 11 Tel. +355 4 224 79 96, Fax +355 4 224 79 96 [email protected] www.grandhoteltirana.com OUR PASSION: HOSPITALITY OUR GOAL: YOUR PLEASURE 14 WHERE TO STAY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Vila 3 G-5, Rr. Gjon Pali II, N°3, tel. +355 4 226 65 82/+355 69 206 57 08, [email protected]. Seven smart rooms in a small 1930s villa set away from the street, behind the pyramid. Fitted out with flatscreen TVs, sparkling en suite bathrooms and wifi, it’s perfect for business trips. The two top floor rooms are large but have slanting ceilings and only skylights for windows. Downstairs and on the terrace surrounding the building there’s a good restaurant and piz- zeria. Q 7 rooms (5 doubles €100, 2 suites €130). PKW Mid-range Good value doubles from between €50-90. Broadway H-3, Rr. Emin Duraku 8, tel. +355 4 225 46 19, fax +355 4 224 39 67, [email protected], www.hotel- broadway-al.com. Next to the Selman Stermasi stadium and within easy walking distance of the bllok area, the large Broadway hotel has a Vegas thing going on. A glass lift whisks you up to halls decked out with pharaonic art, with rooms in corresponding styles, and especially the suites Egypped up quite impressively, with kitsch on all walls and a massage shower. There’s a decent restaurant with a lush terrace too. Q 20 rooms (10 singles €60, 6 doubles €80, 4 suites €120). PARLBK California E-3, Rr. Mihal Duri 2/1, tel. +355 4 225 31 91, fax +355 4 225 31 92, california@albaniaonline. com. Welcome to the Hotel California, where you can check out any time you like, but unlike pre-1990 Albania you can also actuall y leave. There’s no arguing with the location of this place, and small but pleasant rooms contain generall y matching furnishings and shiny bathrooms. Check out the fifth floor, the owner’s favourite. Q 25 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, 5 famil y rooms €70). PALKW City H-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8/1, tel./fax +355 4 224 77 99, [email protected], www.hotelcitytirana. com. Clean, quiet and efficient rooms and friendly staff in a small business hotel down an alley off the street. The views are unin- spiring as it’s jammed in between highrise, but alternative vistas are offered by the elegant photos of cities around the world that decorate the rooms and halls. Ask for the larger top-floor rooms with balconies when you book. Security is top-notch as the prime minister lives next door and his goons patrol the streets. Q 15 rooms (singles €32-60, doubles €75). PARLGW Doro City D-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355 4 223 22 06, fax +355 4 224 70 70, reservations@ hoteldorocity.com, www.hoteldorocity.com. Along the busy ring road near the Durrës highway, Doro has quali ty rooms fitted with plenty of wood, and some boasting large terraces. It’s a few minutes drive west of the city centre. Q 53 rooms (8 singles €60-80, 45 doubles €70-110, suites €100). PHARLBKW Eder F-2, Rr. e Kavajës, tel./fax +355 4 223 91 70, tel. +355 68 24 71 233, [email protected], www. ederhotel.com. A small hotel with just five rooms of varying styles, well-equipped for travellers on a budget. Opposite the Catholic church, a short walk from the main square and just around the corner from a clutch of embassies, it’s well placed if you need to pray, play or get away. Q 5 rooms (3 singles €40, 2 doubles €50). PRL Elysée H-5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173, tel. +355 4 222 28 80, fax +355 4 224 86 92, info@ hotelelysee-al.com, www.hotelelysee-al.com. A quality mid-range hotel, wi th friendl y service and a top location between the US and Italian embassies. Rooms are modern and quiet, with king-sized beds and iron balconies, though there’s no lift to get you between the four floors. There’s wifi, but guests can also use a PC with internet at the reception. Q 20 rooms (singles €50-65, doubles €75-85, triples €105). PALBKW Europa F-3/4, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel./fax +355 4 227 47 41, tel. +355 4 222 38 76, [email protected], www.hotel-europa.al. Just a short crawl from Rinia Park in the centre of town but hidden in a courtyard away from traf- fic noise, the Europa has small, brown, balconied rooms and good facilities for business travellers. Free guarded parking too. Q 18 rooms (3 singles €35, 13 doubles €50-60, 2 suites €70-80). PRLKW Ferari B-2, Rr. Don Bosko, tel. +355 4 235 64 02/+355 69 257 51 72. This unprepossessing but comfortable four-story hotel best serves those who want to get away from the ci ty centre. I t serves a nice I talian breakfast and staff are poli te. Q 26 rooms (doubles €50- 60). PLBKDC Firenze D-4, Blv. Zogu I 72, tel. +355 4 224 90 99, fax +355 4 227 20 77, [email protected]. A surprisingl y good business hotel on the boulevard just north of the main square. Firenze has charming staff, modern and well-furnished rooms, some even wi th fireplaces, and abstract art on the walls. Breakfast is served in the street- side restaurant. Q 7 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70). PARLBK Iliria I-6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel./fax +355 4 237 17 00, info@ iliriahotel.com, www.iliriahotel.com. Recently overhauled, the Iliria’s glamorous lobby area gives access to the smart clean rooms beyond, all fitted out with satellite TV, internet and air conditioning. There’s a restaurant and pleasant café terrace too. It’s located along Rruga Elbasanit, a short walk southwest of the city centre, and the rooms are all sound- proofed. Convenient for various embassies, the university and the Grand Park. Q 20 rooms (singles €58-68, doubles €78, triples €99). PARLKW Kruja D-3, Rr. Mine Peza, tel. +355 4 223 81 06, fax +355 4 223 81 08, [email protected], www. hotelkruja.com. A decent business hotel north of the main square, with standard rooms overlooking the calm street out front. There’s also a restaurant and pleasant pavement café outside. Q 18 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, apartment €75). PRLBK Lugano E-3, Rr. Mihal Duri 34, tel. +355 4 222 20 23/+355 68 203 15 23, [email protected]. A small and warm li ttle hotel in the very centre of town. All rooms have a quality, florid bathroom and a balcony over- looking the quiet street. Q 8 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50). PARLK Sky Hotel G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5/1, tel. +355 4 241 59 95, fax +355 4 224 06 88, skyho- [email protected]. Opened just as this guide went to print, this is Tirana’s latest stylish business hotel with rooms unfortunatel y onl y on the two lowest floors of the Sky Tower building. TIYP was given a pre-opening tour and al though the view is not panoramic, the rooms are look- ers themsel ves, decorated in black and dark purple with touches of gold. Breakfast is served in the top-floor Sky Club. Q 33 rooms (2 singles €80, 24 doubles €98-110, 4 triples €118, 3 suites €130-150). PAK New hotel on the bllok 16 WHERE TO STAY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Stela C-5, Rr. Dibrës, tel./fax +355 4 223 55 67. Wi th i ts whi te tile floors and large bathrooms, Stela seems a good choice. However, the rooms have thin rugs and small towels, and the rooms face a noisy street. All rooms are equipped wi th TV and minibars, as well as tacky arti ficial fl owers. Q 9 rooms (6 singl es €40, 3 doubl es €60). PAK Theranda H-3, Rr. Andon Zako Çajupi 6-7, tel. +355 4 227 37 66, fax +355 4 227 36 89, reser- [email protected], www.therandahotel. com. A charming small hotel of hi gh standards, one of the few to appl y environmentall y fri endl y techni ques like solar panel s. The sel f-proclaimed bouti que hotel has t wo modern buil dings (of whi ch one pavili on-like space i s used for meal s), bri ght rooms, and experi enced staff. One street west of the bllok area. Q 14 rooms (singl es €45-80, doubl es €60-100, 3 sui tes €65-100). PHRLW Victoria C-5, Rr. Dibrës 445, tel./fax +355 4 236 15 94, [email protected]. The modern Victoria, and its pizzeria, is run by a famil y who spent several years in Ital y, and has pleasant if somewhat chintzy rooms. The reception can be found upstairs beyond the restaurant. Q 10 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70). PALK Vila Belvedere F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani 25, tel. +355 4 225 19 35, [email protected]. Perfectl y l ocated in the centre al ong a recentl y pedestrianised street, Bel vedere doesn’t offer much of a view, but the rooms are affordable and comfy. There’s a PC parked in the hall for guests to use too. Q 8 rooms (singles €30, doubles €60). Chateau Linza is set at the foot of Mount Dajti, ofering beautiful views over Tirana while still in the freshness of the mountain breeze. Te hotel has 21 rooms and suites beside the swimming pool and gardens. Te 45 fully furnished apartments are perfect for your stay in Tirana besides clean air they ofer plenty of privacy and full service. Qesarekë-Linzë, Komuna e Dajtit, Tiranë, Albania Tel. +355 69 20 30 003/9 www.chateaulinzahotel.com city views Saranda - Albania, Tel. +355 825 55 92/3/4, [email protected], www.hotelbutrinti.com Rruga Nacionale Durres-Rrogozhine, KM 12, Tel. +355 579 22 115/6/7, [email protected], www.malirobitresort.com For your week end break Miniri E-4, Rr. Dibrës 3, tel. +355 4 223 09 30, fax +355 4 223 30 96, [email protected], www. miniri.com. The excellent location of this Croatian-owned hotel, just off the main square, is not matched by i ts inte- riors. The peach-coloured rooms are decent but nothing special, wi th a small TV, phone and couch. The Croatian restaurant on the premises is the redeeming factor. Q 30 rooms (singles €50, doubles €50-80, triples €100). PHAKW Nirvana E-3, Rr. Kavajës 96/2, tel. +355 4 223 52 70, fax +355 4 223 52 71, hotelnirvana@hotmail. com, www.hotel-nirvana.com. Do you think they would notice i f you booked a room under the name Kurt Cobain? This large villa set back from the busy road has rooms in gaudy colours wi th fi tting cosy furni ture - go all the way and get the one wi th the jacuzzi. Opposi te the Catholic Church. Q 17 rooms (singles €60, doubles €80, sui tes €120). PARLK Nobel E-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 64 44/+355 69 202 07 57, [email protected], www. hotelnobeltirana.com. Friendl y staff, cheerfull y coloured and affordable rooms, and a central location - Nobel ticks all the boxes. Tucked behind the Tirana International Hotel, the Nobel has modern furnishings, wireless internet and a decent Italian restaurant on the ground floor. Q 6 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50). PAKW Palma H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri 2, tel./fax +355 4 226 51 31, [email protected], www.hotel-palma.com. A small, modern hotel in a central location in the bllok, with decent rooms and a restaurant. Q 12 rooms (singles €55, doubles €65, 2 suites €80). PALW 18 WHERE TO STAY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Ambasador D-5, Rr. Isa Boletini 36, Selvia, tel. +355 68 229 13 89. Near the market and only a ten-minute walk from the centre, the Ambasador is a simple, quiet place off the main road. The rooms are decent enough for the price and have TVs. Q 12 rooms (singles €25, doubles €30). PH hhh Areela C-4, Rr. Mahmut Fortuzi, tel. +355 4 222 65 79, fax +355 4 225 56 13, [email protected], www. areela.150m.com. A very pleasant and well-signposted place on a residential road near the train station, the Areela is housed in a building with spotlessl y clean rooms and bath- rooms. There’s onl y Albanian on TV but that’s compensated by the erotic art on the walls. Q 12 rooms (singles €30, doubles €40, triples €60). PJK Briker D-4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 3/24, tel. +355 4 222 95 43, [email protected]. A short stroll from the main square and a few steps up from the street, the modern Briker has rooms with wooden floors, red/white furniture and large blue-glass windows. The room price is the same regardless of the number of occupants. Q 9 rooms (singles, doubles €40). PALW Guva e Qetë F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 223 54 91/+355 68 270 79 01, klidbalkan@albaniaonline. net. Small, simpl e, cl ean and qui et rooms wi th fridge, en sui te bathrooms and TVs in a dead-central location. Amusingl y, when we visi ted, the concierge was too drunk to even walk to the front desk, so we just grabbed some room keys to explore the place oursel ves. Q 12 rooms (doubles €35). P Haxhiu E-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 391, tel./fax +355 4 236 05 47. This family-run hotel is tucked away off the main street and set behind potted trees and flowers. It’s got a light and airy feeling and views of old tile roofs. The relative lack of amenities is compensated by the management`s eagerness to please. Taxis to the centre are provided free. So are coffee and tea. The breakfast buffet features fresh fruit and pastries. Q 11 rooms (6 singles and 5 doubles €30). L Kalaja F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani 9, tel. +355 4 225 00 00. Kalaja amounts to a good budget choice. In this hostel- like setup, you can ei ther share a room or be sel fish and take one all for yoursel f. Rooms are quiet and clean, wi th tile floors, basic bathroom, a TV and a fan. Best of all, the hotel is ensconced inside the ancient walls of Justinian’s Fortress. Q 10 rooms (singles €30, doubles €40, triples €45). HA Meg Klaus D-3, Rr. Asim Vokshi 141, tel. +355 4 223 92 14, fax +355 4 225 92 36. A decent budget hotel near the city centre, hidden from the street in a courtyard and far from any traffic noise. Simple, cheap rooms and a café downstairs. Q 11 rooms (singles €30, doubles €40). Parlamenti F-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 75, tel. +355 4 226 50 24/+355 68 235 46 55. An excellent, affordable and central hotel, on a quiet street and next door to the Brilant hotel. Spacious rooms with attached bathrooms overlook ter- racotta roofs, and the naughty soft focus photos in the halls are a nice touch. English-speaking staff members are present after 10:00. Q 7 rooms (singles €25, doubles €35). PW Pike Loti G-6, Rr. Mihal Grameno, tel./fax +355 4 223 51 55. Not far from the ci ty centre, this famil y-run hotel offers small, clean and comfortable rooms. All come with private bath, modem-compatible telephones, TV and minibar. Some English is spoken. Q 7 rooms (5 singles €25, 2 doubles €33). PL Vila 3 Hotel & Restaurant Excellent service, relaxation and comfort can all be e, relaxation and comfort can all be found at Vila 3. Set e ce in a safe location in central Tirana, the hotel dates from King Zog's era (1929-1934) and is near to offices, embassies, consula lates and governmental ula institutions. The Vila 3 hotel has five rooms and two suites, nicely decorated in Western suites, nicely decorated in Western n suite style with a luxurious and modern atmosphere. Rooms have optional odern atmosphere. Rooms have option ona modern matrimonial beds, air conditioning, minibar, satellite TV, telephone services r conditioning, minibar, satellite TV, telephone serv erv , air condit and a wireless internet connection. Rooms service from our restaurant is internet connection. Rooms service from our resta estau available. We acc cept Visa and Mastercard. cc The Vila 3 restaurant is well known for the delicious traditional Albanian and rant is well known for the delicious tradition ona ur Italian dishes, and pizzas from our wood burning oven are served in relaxing d pizzas from our wood burning oven are served ved d and contemporary surroundings with a traditional touch. The bar offers exotic surroundings with a traditional touch. The bar offe ffe y s cocktails served according to your prefe cording to your preferences. c rding to your ef ccording to your pr The historical location, excellent and fast service, quality and safe environment vice, quality and safe environm vic m of Vila 3 will be sure to make your stay in Tirana a pleasant one, and we Tirana a pleasant one, and d Ti guarantee to provide for every need you may have – your satisfaction is our ave – your satisfaction is o ha only goal! We look forward to greeting you in Vila 3. Address: Rr. Lekë Dukagjini 3, Tiranë anë, Albania ranë : Tel/fax: +355 04 266 582. : Mobile: +355 69 2065 708 : Email: vila 3@yahoo com [email protected] vila 3@yahoo com : Hotel Airport Tirana Rinas, tel. +355 4 830 01 90, [email protected], www.hotelair- porttirana.com. The best (and best-named) of several options by the airport, this hotel is near the terminal yet qui te a slog around the perimeter fence, so call for a free pickup. The fire- and soundproof rooms have bright colours, and bathrooms are ready for take-off with their space-age shower cabins. A garden restaurant with pool at the rear is also available for those simpl y waiting for flights. Q 50 rooms (22 singles €60, 26 doubles €90, 2 apartments €150). PLKC Jurgen Rinas, tel. +355 68 200 63 63. A basic, friendl y hotel just metres from the airport arrivals hall. Look for the blue-glass building wi th the German flag on top. No luxury or soundproofing, but at least there are smiles all round. Q 7 rooms (singles/doubles €40). Verzaci Rinas, tel./fax +355 56 46 01 18, www. turisalba.com/verzaci. It’s good that Gianni is no longer among us, as he’d faint at the sight of this garish pink building with a big green V on the facade. Inside, the rooms are plain and basic. Verzaci is a 5-minute walk along the main road north from the airport. No English is spoken. Q 20 rooms (singles/doubles €25). PK Vila Aeroport Rinas, tel. +355 68 207 70 98. The coolest airport hotel you’ve seen in your life is right here in Tirana. Modelled after a big sil ver plane and expected to open sometime in 2010, it’s parked along the road from the airport to the north. Until it opens, you’’ll have to make do with the adjacent Dallas-meets-Dracula ranch with a decent restaurant, a small disco and some large rooms on the top floor. Q 16 rooms (doubles €50, 4 suites €80). PHARFLBKDCW Airport Hotels Vila Park K-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Grand Park, Kodrat e liqenit, tel. +355 4 225 65 97, fax +355 4 225 68 64, [email protected], www.vilaparkhotel.com. Tirana’s most tranquil hotel is set 100 metres inside the Grand Park, where the modernistic rooms of Vila Park with their balco- nies overlook people strolling amongst the trees. There’s a top class gym and sauna in the adjacent building that guests can use for a €15 per day. Car access is restricted during daytime. Q 12 rooms (6 doubles €80, 6 suites €100). PARFBKDW Vila Tafaj D-3, Rr. Mine Peza 86, tel. +355 4 222 75 81/+355 4 223 42 80, fax +355 4 223 59 56, vilatafaj@ yahoo.com, www.tafaj.com. An elegant 1930s building in the city centre with a green garden at the back to relax in. Rooms are spacious and modern, and laundry and minibar is included in the price. The restaurant rustles up Mediter- ranean food. Q 25 rooms (8 singles €50, 15 doubles €60-90, 2 suites €90-100). PHARLKW Budget Why pay more, indeed? Double rooms from €25-50. In win- ter, it’s important to ask if the heating in cheaper hotels runs on electricity, and if the hotel has a back-up generator in case the power goes pow. Alpin C-5, Rr. Siri Kodra, tel. +355 4 222 10 84/+355 69 406 62 85. Double rooms with small bathrooms (shower only) and balconies along a busy road. Some English is spoken at the reception. Q 7 rooms (doubles €30). P 20 WHERE TO STAY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 21 WHERE TO STAY January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Savana I-6, Rr. Dervish Hima 38, tel. +355 68 207 70 69, [email protected]. Basic and cheap rooms with small en suite bathrooms set above a smokey café. Good value for money if you’re onl y interested in the nearby bars and restaurants or an earl y morning bus to southern Albania. Q 5 rooms (singles, doubles €25). PRL Cheap The pits - less than €25 for a sagging double. Dafina C-4, Rr. Papa Kristo Negovani 42, tel. +355 4 223 07 77. On a side street halfway the centre and the train station, the Dafina has a handful of simple and quiet rooms. Q 7 rooms (singles €8, doubles €20). P Republika C-5, Blv. Zog I, 66, tel. +355 4 222 24 00, fax +355 4 222 50 14, [email protected]. On Tirana’s busy boulevard, the Republika has decent rooms, some with en suite bathrooms, some using clean shared facilities. Handy for both the centre and the city’s transport options, but get a room at the back for a quiet night’s sleep. Q 16 rooms (doubles €20-30, triples €30). P Vila Verde B-4, Rr. Karl Gega, tel. +355 4 224 82 32/+355 69 230 81 11. Near the train station, just down the quiet street running parallel to the tracks. Expect low- standard rooms with en-suite facilities that are bearable if you need to catch an earl y train or a bus heading north. Q 7 rooms (singles €10, doubles €20). PLBK Guesthouses & Apartments Staying at a guesthouse means you may be sharing the house and some of the the facilities with the locals. It’s a great way to meet locals and learn more about how they live. You’ll be surprised at how people of meager means lavish care and attention on their apartment interiors. Albaniantrip D-4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 73/1, N °7, tel. +355 68 40 58 529/+355 69 22 63 333, contact@ albaniantrip.com, www.albaniantrip.com. Modern self- catering studios and apartments sleeping 3-9 people, in four locations across the city centre. They can be rented per room (with private or shared bathrooms) or as a whole, and have wifi and a full y equipped kitchen with washing machine and fridge. Q 4 apartments (single use €20, €5 per additional person). PW Bujtina Shqiptare D-3, Rr. Sulejman Pasha, tel. +355 4 222 04 33/+355 68 219 69 03, bujtinashqiptare1@ yahoo.com. Good budget accommodation in rooms spread across three buildings just north of the city centre. The rooms are basic but comfortable; facilities vary from room to room but all have private bathroom and TV. Q 8 rooms (singles €12, doubles €16, triples €25). Endri H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, Pall. 27, Sh. 3, Ap. 30, tel. +355 4 224 41 68/+355 69 227 25 22. Endri consists of a large first floor apartment with rooms for rent, run by a friendl y couple who live in the apartment next door. You have your own bathroom, either inside the room or just outside the hall, and cable TV. Limited English is spoken; bring hands and feet. Q Double rooms €25. Pension Andrea F-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 103, tel. +355 4 225 69 47/+355 69 209 49 15, pensionandrea@ gmail.com. In a quiet location near the Parliament building, Pension Andrea’s four basic rooms with TV, a/c and private bathrooms come wi th a lovel y landlady, Xhina Ballo, who speaks some English. To find the unmarked pension, turn down the alley next to the Brilant hotel; it’s the third door on the right. Q 4 rooms (singles €20, doubles €30). P Pension Strazimi Rr. Ali Demi, pall. 141, shk. 3, apt. 23, tel. +355 4 237 21 02/+355 69 333 83 41. The home of Xhetan and Melihat Strazimi has three basic but clean rooms with shared bathrooms. The Strazimis like to lock the door by midnight, so it’s no good for party animals, but a welcoming option for budget travellers. Rr. Ali Demi is just east of the centre, off Bl v. Bajram Curri, on the Uzina bus line. Q 3 rooms (singles €5, doubles €10). Stephen Center B&B E-5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1, tel./ fax +355 4 225 39 24, stephencenter@stephencenter. com, www.stephencenter.com. The ‘Christian environment’ provided in the cosy guestrooms of the Stephen Center is avail- able to missionaries and other travellers and consists of simple but well-furnished rooms with twin beds, private bathroom and adequate heating. There’s laundry, wifi and airport pickup ser- vice too. Q 6 rooms (singles €30, doubles €40). PGKW UAW Guesthouse E-2, Rr. Naim Frashëri 6, tel. +355 4 222 30 01, [email protected], www.uaw-al.com. One for the ladies, this. On the top floor of the ‘Useful to Albanian Women’ NGO office building, two basic rooms and a kitchen- ette are available for travellers. Breakfast is available at the café on the ground floor of the villa. Q 2 rooms (1 single €30, 1 double €60). PW Vesa Residence I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, Vesa Center, tel. +355 4 227 88 16, [email protected], www.vesacen- ter.com. Comfortable two-bedroom apartments sleeping up to four or five people, and equipped with a full kitchen. Q PFLKDW Rruga Jeronim de Rada 103, Tirana [email protected] Tel. +355 4 225 69 47 +355 69 209 49 15 2GPUKQP #PFTGC Hostels The number of hostels in Albania rocketed from just one to about seven in 2009, anticipating the flood of smelly backpackers expected to scrounge through the country in coming years. Note that the Kalaja hotel (see Budget hotels) has a few rooms that are available as dorms. Freddy's Hostel E-4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 75, tel. +355 4 226 60 77/+355 68 203 52 61, alfredsalku@yahoo. com, www.freddyshostel.com. Eminentl y sui tabl e for flashpackers, Freddy's is just a short walk north of the main square down a quiet street. I t's more of a guesthouse than a true hostel, wi th modern two- and three-bedded rooms (no bunk beds), in several apartments spread over a brand new building. All rooms have cable TV and a/c, What do fi ve Ui ghur muslims (from China’s Xinjiang region), one Egyptian, one Algerian and an Uzbek have in common? These eight men all were found to be innocent after years in the Guantanamo Bay camp... and ended up in Albania. With no country that participated in the Afghanistan war willing to take these men in at the time, and the US refusing to send them back to their home countries, Albania was the onl y country in the world that agreed to give them asylum. Abu Beker - who works at the Vllaznia restaurant on Rruga Kavajës - is one of the better-known new arrivees, his story of imprisonment by various governments having been reported in newspa- pers worldwide. Al though he has not seen his wife and children for a decade, he’s here to stay and hopes to open his own pizzeria. We’ll be the first to review it. Guantanamo refugees 22 WHERE TO STAY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 23 RESTAURANTS January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Albanian cuisine is surprisingly good and tasty, a mix of Mediterranean and Balkan traditions, with plenty of fresh fish and produce. Standards are often high, with many members of the Albanian emigrant diaspora returning with years of experience in the catering industries around the world. Dining in Tirana is cheap and even in upscale restaurants a main course will not cost much more than 800 lek. We've listed the average main course prices in the reviews. Enjoy. Upmarket Even at the fanciest places in Tirana a meal won’t break the bank. Apollonia H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Euro- papark Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 50 35. Apollonia’s menu features not onl y Greek, Albanian and Italian specialities, but also kangaroo meat. The restaurant has a stylish setting, with outdoor seating in the lush hotel garden. Occasionall y musi- cians also saunter around the dining room, serenading guests with Albanian ballads. QOpen 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00-22:30, Sun 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00-23:00. (1,500-3,000 lek). AEB Carlsberg I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Xheko Impe- rial Hotel, tel. +355 4 224 68 52. The classy first-floor Carlsberg restaurant in the Xheko Imperial Hotel is deservedly popular with the foreign crowd. Brick arches surround the diners, while some of the country’s best cooks and waiters ensure a quality meal. It’s hard to go wrong with anything here, but we are especiall y taken with the steaks, the salad bar and the decadent selection of cheese. In summer, head for the open-air rooftop restaurant, a dazzlingl y white classicist pleasure garden complete with fountains, amazing views and the classy White Camellia conservatory. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (300-1500 lek). Metropolitan J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel. +355 4 227 47 07. Set underneath a groovy wave roof, the Sheraton’s Metropolitan restaurant has excellent Alba- nian and international fusion dishes on offer at international prices. The dress code is smart casual. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAB Piazza E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli 1, tel. +355 4 223 07 06. Opened by an Albanian-American famil y in 1993, Piazza was Tirana’s first trul y elegant restaurant. The competition has made it more accessible and affordable, but Piazza hasn’t lost i ts cachet. This is still the place for chic parties and business dinners. The fresh salad bar is excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00-23:00. AEB Vinum E-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 60, tel. +355 4 223 08 22/+355 68 208 49 00. One of Tirana’s nicest restaurants, Vinum is tucked away down a small lane; look for the sign on the main street. The restaurant is in a beautifull y restored 1920s villa with a walled garden, and the chef/owner pro- duces superb Italian and French influenced dishes. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (600-1200 lek). PAB Albanian Bantia H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 224 46 57. Excellent traditional Albanian food served in a large restaurant with nice photos of old Tirana (with English captions no less). Try the tavë oven dish served with Korça meatballs or the speciality, petulla te fshjra, or village pie. If you're bringing hungry friends, consider ordering a lakror, a large flat hearty pie stuffed with onion, leek, creamy cheese, or vegetables. Pilsner Urquell is on tap. Q (300-700 lek). Era H-3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 33, tel. +355 4 225 78 05, [email protected]. Meaning 'wind', this popular and foreigner-friendly spot makes for a good casual lunch or dinner. The Albanian food is excellent; try the stuffed eggplant and peppers, and fërgesë (fried minced lamb, feta cheese and garlic). Era also delivers home. Near the corner with Rr. Sami Frashëri. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00. PJB Mrizi i Zanave F-5, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush 1, tel. +355 4 226 99 31/+355 68 207 44 49. Near the quaint Ottoman Tanners' Bridge (Ura e tabakëve) by the river Lana, the Mrizi i Zanave restaurant is named after Gjergj Fishta's Renaissance-era sonnet book Valley of Goddesses. Enjoy excellent tradi tional North Albanian cuisine here in surroundings reminiscent of a High Albania tavern.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PE Oda E-5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, tel. +355 4 224 95 41/+355 69 209 49 11. Eat Ottoman-style in Tirana's onl y true tra- ditional famil y-run restaurant, sitting on (indeed) ottomans at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old house. Surrounded by shel ves with dishes, strings of garlic and peppers and old photos, it's best to allow the waiters P Air conditioning B Outside seating A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking E Occasional live music S Take away G No smoking W Wi-Fi T Child friendl y V Home delivery Symbol key and some also have bal conies. Sheets and towels are changed dail y too - i t's like you never left your mummy. Q 18 rooms (€12-16 per bed). Simple breakfast included for the €14+ beds. PW Tirana Backpacker Hostel 1 H-5/6, Rr. Elbasa- nit 85, tel. +355 68 216 73 57, tiranabackpacker@ hotmail.com, www.tiranahostel.com. The charming, yellow 1940s Villa Karajani is home to the first hostel in the country, wi th a set of basic rooms wi th bunk beds. Guests can use the garden ki tchen and terrace, washing machine, internet, free linen and towels - the downside is the traffic noise. One block east of the Rogner Hotel, at the end of Rruga Ismail Qemali. A nearby apartment is available for longer stays. Q 5 rooms (1 double, 4 dorms wi th 5-6 beds €12/person). R6 Tirana Backpacker Hostel 2 F-2, Rr. Kavajës 175, tel. +355 68 216 73 57. The people behind TBH1 have found another charming villa and have turned it into a buzzing hostel, with ample opportunity for getting drunk with strang- ers, nightlife safaris and outdoor adventures. The hostel has 23 beds, a nice garden, internet and washing machines. Find TBH2 in the alley behind Sofra restaurant, opposite the VW shop. Q 4 rooms (€12 per bed). Out of town Tirana's playgrounds are in the green valley southeast of town along the road to Elbasan, and in the foothills of Mount Dajti, directly to the east of the city. Many modern hotels and popular restaurants can be found here, though keep in mind that you won't get much sleep on weekend nights - always check that they don't have a wedding or other party planned during your stay. Dajti Park Tirana-Dajti road, km 8, tel. +355 4 230 22 33, fax +355 4 230 22 34, [email protected], www. dajtipark.com. A large, modern complex on the flanks of Mount Daj ti, just 9km east of Tirana and 800 metres above sea level, the Daj ti Park offers great views of the city and is a pleasant place to chill out, enjoy the pool or let the kids romp around. The guest rooms have balconies and are well-equipped. Free pickup from the airport. Q (singles €40, doubles €50, triples €60). PHLKCW Mai Tai Resor t Tirana-Elbasan road, km 5, tel. (+355) 4 83 03 00/+355 68 205 54 84. Tirana's Mai Tai Resort has i t all: hotel rooms, bar, restaurant, swim- ming pools and an exotic name, all far from the noise of the capi tal yet just a short dri ve to the ci ty centre. Expect modern rooms and services. Q 14 rooms (doubles €40). PLBKCW Panorama Tirana-Dajti road, km 22, tel./fax +355 4 236 31 24, tel. +355 68 202 39 36, panorama@ albaniaonline.net, www.panoramadajt.net. A complex in Mount Daj ti national park offering wooden chalets amidst landscaped grounds and a well-to-do restaurant. Shuttle buses to the complex depart regularl y from the top station of the cable car, or you can drive up. Good restaurant on site too. Q 11 rooms (7 doubles € 40, 2 singles €30, 2 chalets €40). THARILEK Venue Park Mullet, Tirana-Elbasan road, km 15, tel. +355 68 328 66 66. In the summer many Tiranans trek here to swim in the nice pool. The odd green marble effect in the rooms can be endured in return for the stunning view of Petrela Castle on the opposite peak. Q 9 rooms (singles and doubles €20, 1 suite €30). PLBKC Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush 1 Tel. +355 4 226 99 31 Mrizi i Zanave North Albanian Restaurant Stay at Freddy's In the cIty centre and dIscover TIrana. Comfortable modern rooms for 2·4 people, from 612 per person. Cable T7, wIñ and a/c In all rooms. 75 8ardhok 8Iba Street TIrana, AlbanIa Tel. (+J55)(0)68 20J 52 61 [email protected] www.freddyshostel.com 24 RESTAURANTS Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 25 RESTAURANTS January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. The food is fresh and delicious, unforgettable even after washing it all down with their home-made raki. Find Oda down the first alley west of the market.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (300-700 lek). Sarajet F-5, Rr. Abdi Topani 7, tel. +355 4 224 30 38. Most traditional Ottoman-era houses have disappeared in Tirana. Sarajet is housed in one of the survivors, the grand wooden Toptani famil y house, dating from 1780 and looking good since i ts recent renovation. Ask to see the carved wooden ceilings on the first floor and the small hamam. Unfortunatel y the food is nothing special. Strictl y for drinks and a gander. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (600 lek). PTB Serenata E-3, Rr. Mihal Duri 22, tel. +355 4 273 08 89. With a nicel y low-key decor of traditional art and costume, Serenata is the home of dishes from the southern Devolli region, centred on the town of Korça, which is of course fa- mous for its serenades and spicy, saucy and full fat food. Try lakror, a flat pancake stuffed with green beans, tomatoes, herbs and spices or tave me qofte, spiced meatballs baked in a clay bowl. Next to Hotel California. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (600 lek). PA Vila 31 E-2, Rr. Gjon Muzaka 31, tel. +355 4 227 81 41/+355 69 20 83 317. A charming rural-style restaurant in the big city. This converted house has rustic seating inside, and in summer tables below the vines in the shady courtyard. The food is honest peasant fare such as grilled meat and ribs of lamb, with the tave Vila 31 (an oven-baked pot of cheese, vegetables and egg for 350 lek) as the standout choice. From Rruga Kavajës walk down Rruga Naim Frashëri and look for the sign down the the fourth alley on your right. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (600-700 lek). PAB Viva H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 4 224 63 76. Here's a simple, central, home cooking restaurant that pl eases all wi th good cooking and friendl y servi ce. For something local, order the tave dheu (270 lek), an oven dish wi th meat and cheese, or try the Elbasan version, tava kosi (280 lek) that's wi th yoghurt. I t's all good. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Asian Da Shang Hai I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkur tit, 25/1, tel. +355 4 227 19 87. Good Chinese food ser ved in wonder full y chint z y surroundings, j ust the way the Chinese like i t. The Engli sh-language menu, kindl y translated by the US embassy staff, li sts a good value set menu deal as well as several fi sh di shes. Find Da Shang Hai si gnposted down an small all ey. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Far East H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 6, tel. +355 4 227 19 38. Par t of a Greek restaurant chain, this pan-Asian res- taurant has el ements of many Ori ental cul tures refl ected in both the desi gn and the menu. You're greeted on the whi te terrace by a Japanese stone lantern overl ooking a gurgling stream, whil e inside i t's all Chinese woodwork, moon gates and fish tanks. The menu has ever ything from sushi (from 600 l ek) to Indonesian satay beef and a Korean-styl e si zzl er barbecue. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (800-1300 l ek). Mimi I-5, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 4 226 99 47. An unusually named Chinese restaurant. There's friendly service and a full range of chicken, pork, noodle and beef standards. The seafood specialities include calamari and shrimps. Home delivery, too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PB London D-4, Blv. Zogu I, N°51, tel. +355 4 223 88 51. Wandering Brits should feel right at home here in this small Albanian corner of Blighty, where British and Italian food is served. A favouri te for expats and visi tors alike. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. AE Lulishte 1 Maji F-5/6, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush, tel. +355 4 225 45 71. A large, tree-shaded garden beside the river, shared by four restaurants, fountains and a playground. There's pasta and pizza at low prices and a large red building housing the culinary equivalent of the UN, wi th kebabs, Mexican and Chinese food. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. EB Royal G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers, tel. +355 4 228 03 28, [email protected]. Located on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers, this restaurant combines fine dining with a nice view of the main boulevard and the ci ty skyline. Come on a warm night and dine al fresco in the glow of the pyramid. A good selection of wines is available to accompany a large variety of mains. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. (600-1200 lek). PA Shang Hai F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 225 70 12/+355 68 218 70 81. Good and affordable Chinese food is offered at Tirana’s second Shang Hai restaurant, found beyond a set of carved wooden pillars in a courtyard opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. The menu has a dazzling 126 options (plus a set of Albanian choices to lure insecure locals inside), all available in the dining hall, on the terrace or for take-away. The set menus with 5-8 dishes are good value. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. B Fast food & Snacks Concentrations of grease can be found around the intersection of Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. Abdyl Frashëri. See also the café reviews for healthier snacks. Big Bite I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 16, tel. +355 4 222 00 00. Tirana's other popular fast-food chain. Non-stop burgers, chips and pizza. Q Open 24hrs. S Il Pomodoro Food Court H-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Plaza Mall. A food court inside the mall attached to the Sheraton hotel, with three cuisines on offer: Mexican, Italian and Asian. Popular for office lunches and for a quick dinner. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Kolonat I-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 225 51 27. Albania's first US-style fastfood chain comes complete with plagiarised McD logo and boxes. Those bored with Ronald's concoctions may like the huge four-person superpizzas, Skanderburgers (named after the national hero) and 'Big Supreme' menus (420 lek) on the menu here. The main outlet is a large tent wedged behind the colonade at the southern end of the boulevard. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Also at (G-6) Bl v. Bajram Curri. Mr. Chicken I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 225 77 08. It's hot and it's busy, but the delicious freshl y cooked rotisserie chicken is worth waiting for. You can also get decent chips and kebabs here. Sit in the cheap and cheerful dining section or take it away to smear grease all over your face elsewhere. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (150 lek). BS French Patisserie Française G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, 1. A French-owned culinary amalgamation with a patisserie at the front flogging bread and cakes, and behind it a faux Parisian café with mirrors and oozing red colours ev- erywhere. Light lunch or supper accompanied by red wine here is highl y recommended. TIYP readers recommend the Paris Brest cake. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. (900-1500 lek). PGS International Billionaire G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 13, tel. +355 4 227 37 16. Situated on one of the few streets in central Tirana still lined wi th old-fashioned villas, Billionaire adds to the atmosphere by providing a restful terrace and garden where you can smell the flowers as you sip your drink or dine on mainl y Italian food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (500-700 lek). PTAB King House I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 225 55 59. There's nothing outstanding about the King House; just reliabl y good Albanian and Italian food served in pleasant surroundings by friendl y and attentive staff. Home of the informal Friday night Tirana expat meeting. Near the Xheko Imperial hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (550-1280 lek). PAS Waiter! Kamarier! A table for two Një tavvolin për dy Non-smoking / smoking Ndalohet duhani / Lejohet duhani The menu please Menune ju lutem I’d like to order Do doja ta bëja porosin Do you have vegetarian food? Kni ushqim vegjetarian Surprise me! Më befaso The bill, please Faturën ju lutem Restaurant talk Meat & Fish Mish & Peshk beef mish lope chicken pulë lamb qengji pork derri sausage suxhuk veal mish viçi schnitzel shnitcell fish mish peshku salmon salmon sea food fruta deti trout troftë Fruits and vegetables Frutat dhe perimet apple mollë banana banane cabbag lakër carrot karrotë eggplant patëllxhan mushrooms këpurdha orange portokall peppers speca tomatoes domate Drinks Pijet beer birrë juice lëng wine verë water ujë Menu decoder 26 RESTAURANTS Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 27 RESTAURANTS January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Lebanese 1001 Netë H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti, tel. +355 4 225 88 60. Named after the 1001 nights during which Scheherazade told unfinished tales to the Persian king to save herself from execution at dawn, Tirana's first Levant-themed restaurant has silver curtains creating an intimate atmosphere around the low tables and Lebanese specialities such as tabuleh salad on the menu. Albanian and Italian dishes are available too. Opposite the Iranian embassy. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. (800-1,200 lek). BK Seafood Il Cappricio di Zio Edi G-4, Blv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, tel. +355 4 223 33 21/+355 69 272 35 10. Beyond the unassuming facade, this basement restaurant specialising in Italian fish dishes is well worth a visit. Edi spent 15 years learning the trade in Ital y before starting his own venture here, and his kitchen dishes out fantastic appetisers and tasty variations on fresh sea fish, squid, and shrimps. Find i t near the corner wi th Rruga Vaso Pasha. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. P Kalaja e Petreles (Petrela Castle) Petrele, tel. +355 4 69 208 81 38. A fantastic setting for a very good restaurant. The Petrele castle restaurant has tables both outside and in the little tower, all with great views of the surrounding valleys and hills. The food is traditional Albanian, served with a smile. Half an hour’s drive east of Tirana along the road to Elbasan. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (700-1,500 lek). B Castle dining meals, accompanied by a good selection of wines. The outside seating area has a tropical feel to i t, while inside i t's all minimalist chique wi th delicate spotlighting. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PLBW La Cantinella H-4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 207 00 82. Set back from the street, the courtyard of this elegant I talian grill house is a pleasant and quiet place to try a grilled meat or Albanian speciali ty. Inside, there are tables wi th red-cushioned seats, a pot stove, and wines displayed along the walls. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (400-800 lek). PAEB La Tavernetta H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Lurking in a cellar bel ow a modern hi gh-ri se li es thi s rusti c Albanian tavern wi th wooden beams, medalli ons, large spoons and lutes. The reasonabl e I talian food here is compl emented by an excell ent salad bar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. P Mamma Rosa H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri 20/1, tel. +35 69 317 70 84. Over the past year or two, this restaurant has changed name and cuisine so often that we're al ways writing new reviews for it. First a Turkish place called Efendy, then Anais with international food, it has now morphed into an I talian eatery wi th standard pastas and steak. What remains, thankfull y, is the bathroom with a real bath where you can take refuge from this fast-changing ci ty. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (500-900 lek). Napoli D-2, Rr. Durrësit 79, tel. +355 4 223 15 67, www.restaurantnapoli.com. One of the first pri vate restaurants to open in 1991 and strategi call y placed near the clutch of embassi es al ong Rr. Skenderbeg, Na- poli is a good spot for dipl omats and other passers-by. I ts scrumpti ous pi zzas and seafood are conjured up by a chef who trained in I tal y. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (350- 650 l ek). PAB Pirro Mani Rr. Ali Demi 131, tel. +355 4 234 75 67/+355 69 202 98 63. Famed locall y for the Italian food on offer, Pirro Mani is named after the celebrity owner and has no arsonist links whatsoever. There's a large seating area in the garden, while the rustic interior is also capable of hold- ing a wedding party or two. On weekends, call in advance to check it's not booked full. Just east of the city centre. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (750-1300 lek). P Vila Logoreci I/J-3, Rr. Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 4 224 71 90. A superb-looking restaurant in an old villa, wi th cosy indoor rooms and a terrace wi th a pond. The I talian food here is a cut above the rest and certainl y is worth trying. However, when we visi ted i t was so busy that the wai ters were stressed and unfriendl y so perhaps i t's best to come earl y or avoid the Vila on busy nights. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30. PAB Japanese Yamato I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, QTU City mall, tel. +355 4 225 82 38. Albania's first Japanese restaurant is so well- hidden, unmarked above the Euromax supermarket in the QTU City mall, that several locals have written to us to say it does not exist. But it does, and serves pretty decent sushi, sashimi, tempura and teriyaki dishes - though the exact menu depends on which fish were netted that morning. Unfortu- natel y, our experience was marred when we were left waiting while the waiters checked Facebook and played games on the restaurant PC, instead of attending to customers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (600-1,800 lek). Italian Casa di Pasta G-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Rinia Park, tel. +355 4 225 11 75/+355 4 225 11 78. A large I talian eatery occupying hal f of the Tai wan complex, and looking like any neo-rustic restaurant. The open kitchen of- fers full views of cooks whacking lambchops into submission, spinning pizza dough or preparing the "capricious fish salad", and although their efforts result in fine dishes, the service can be numbingl y slow. The huge fruit salad is recommended on hot days. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Green House G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 4 222 26 32, [email protected], www.greenhouse. al. A 1930s villa wi th a quiet courtyard hidden behind high hedges seems the perfect place to have Medi terranean Serendipity I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, 26/1, tel. +355 4 225 93 77. A favourite among foreigners, Serendip- ity offers an irresistible combination of attractive clientele, innovative cocktails and fusion food (curry, chicken jambalaya, etc). There's often live music on Friday and Saturday, with partying until the earl y hours. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (700 lek). PEB Steakhouse G-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Rinia Park, Taiwan, tel. +355 68 230 88 08. The newest addi tion to the Tai wan entertainment complex, this sleek first-floor steak restaurant is decked out wi th light wood and has a pleasant terrace overlooking the park. The menu has items such as the Mosaic mixed grill and sirloin Angus steak, but also has a range of other non-steak meals. There's knowledgeable service and wifi too. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (800 lek). PABW Vila Ferdinand I-4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe, tel. +355 4 225 04 46. A charmingl y converted villa with seating indoors and on the terrace and balconies. The menu is fairl y standard, with Albanian and Italian food, and T-bone steaks. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (400-800 lek). PB Vila Metropolitan H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Right beside the dictator's old villa, this nicel y converted villa is the largest ci ty-centre venue wi th a café on the ground floor and the terrace around, and a stylish restaurant upstairs. There's tradi tional and modern art on the walls, and a varied menu; for vegetarian viagra try the 'aphrodi- siac salad'. Who'll convince the UN and NGOs hogging the other lovel y villas on this street to make way for progress? QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. Villa Amsterdam H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 9, tel. +355 4 226 74 39. Logicall y located right opposite the Netherlands embassy building, this pleasant restaurant has great semi- covered terrace seating where you can plot the downfall of the Dutch government. Or perhaps just tuck into Albanian food and pizzas. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PB Ballkoni Dajtit Mount Dajti, upper cable car station, tel. +355 68 401 10 21. A l ovel y Alpine- styl e wooden cabin restaurant wi th excell ent vi ews over Ti rana and t he wi de surroundi ngs. There are several rooms, though i t’s wor th asking for a tabl e in the encl osed bal cony room. The restaurant ser ves vari ous Al bani an and I tal i an meal s, wi th pri ces refl ecting the effor ts needed to haul i t all up the mountain. The ser vi ce and mono-lingual staff requires some training, but i t’s well wor th vi si ting. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Sky Club G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkur tit N°5, tel. +355 4 222 16 66, ext 143, skyclub@ albaniaonline.net. Tirana’s most novel restaurant is perched on top of the 17-storey Sky Tower. A glass el evator stuck on the side of the building takes you up to the terrace from where there are tabl es and great vi ews in all directi ons. The pri ces of the internati onal dishes ser ved here are as hi gh as the l ocati on, but the vi ews make up for that. One fl oor up, the café secti on has a revol ving fl oor (see Cafés). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (700-1200 l ek). Admissi on 250 l ek/ person for groups. PB Food with a view Let go of those old-fashioned certainties, and visit a restaurant that doesn’t do menus. Amor F-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355 4 224 15 73/+355 69 268 49 52. No menu here, just what the chef/owner decides to make that day, all cooked fresh. Great home made pasta, excellent meat, superb desserts and all at reasonable prices. Don’t miss the chocolate mousse. It’s onl y a little place so booking is advisable for dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Sun. (950 lek). P Otium H-3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 4 222 35 70. One of our favourite new places, Otium is a deliciousl y unpretentious place for a great meal. Clamber up the steps to the first floor dining room and be wowed by fast and knowledgeable staff - who’ll tell you there’s no menu but will make several suggestions. The pasta dish that TIYP had was excellent - though be aware the salads feed two. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. P No menu Il Capriccio Enjoy fresh fsh from the depths of the Adriatic Sea Open daily 11am to midnight. Blvd. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi Tirane, Albania Tel: 04 223332, Mob: 0692723510 Street views from the Noi café 28 RESTAURANTS Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Rozafa E-5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi 2, tel. +355 4 224 86 70/+355 4 223 91 14, www.rozafa.com.al. With fish and other seafood coming fresh from their own fish market across the street, you can choose between superb cheap seafood or superb expensive seafood at the two Rozafa restaurants, both located in one building. Treat yourself at least once to the upmar- ket version (down the alley and through the wooden door on the left); try the seafood buffet, piled high with more tentacles and suckers that you can count. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAB Vila 12 G/H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 12, tel. +355 4 225 06 33. A gourmet fish restaurant that has some very fishy combinations indeed, served in an earth-coloured space with framed bricks. The Italian-trained chef likes to experiment with weird combinations here, such as the raw fish with radish, grapes or strawberries as a starter, and potato-cake with cod and mozzarella as a main course. Ask for the six fish dish starter (900 lek) to sample various such creations, or ask for traditional grilled fish or lobster. The hot choc fondant cake is a worthy dessert. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (700-900 lek). PAB Swiss Swiss Chalet H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 11, tel. +355 69 205 92 52, [email protected]. Rather than being perched at lofty Alpine al titudes, this Swiss-themed restaurant can be found in a series of small rooms in a basement beside the Grand hotel. Decorated with old photos of quaint Helvetic towns, it's a great place to sample various styles of mol ten cheese such as raclette (dripped) and fondue (dipped, 2,200 lek for two). There's also fondue Bourguignonne, where you cook skewered bits of meat in a pot of boiling oil - smell y but good fun. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00-23:00. PGB Turkish Sofra F-2, Rr. Kavajës 170, tel. +355 4 222 68 18. Although Albanian food is heavily influenced by the Turks, this restaurant serving original kuzhina turke is worth the short walk west from the centre. Try the Turkish pizza lahmaxhun, one of the many kebab dishes, or sink your teeth into sweet sticky baklava pastries. Prices are very reasonable for the feast you'll get, and the place is nicel y decorated with kilim carpets, instruments, nargil pipes and other nicknacks. It's as if the Ottomans never left. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. P Lining Tirana’s Grand Park are several large restau- rants where you can relax in the cool fresh air and say hello to a bear. Juvenilja Castelo J-6, Rr. Gjeneral Niko Pushkini, tel. +355 4 226 66 66. These fine purveyors of Ital- ian and Albanian specialities, a mul ti-talented salad bar and gigantic pizza inhabit a customised castle on the edge of the park. Excellent dining in large rooms, all- encompassing balconies or tiered-terraces overlooking the greenery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PALBSW Nëna Mbretereshë Rr. Labinoti. The “Queen Mother” restaurant is a quaint wooden lodge-type building set on a hill overlooking the trees of Grand Park, near the Martyrs’ Cemetery. The terrace is great for a coffee or one of the grill or meat dishes on the menu, but foreign- ers sitting inside will have a hard time understanding why a restaurant in such a fine location keeps the curtains tightl y closed. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Sofra e Ariut (Bear’s Lair) Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 237 29 04, www.sofraeariut.com. Resembling a Swiss chalet, the elegant interiors are great for long Albanian lunches or dinners. The cages containing Liza the bear, some monkeys, eagles and chickens around the lush terrace of this popular restaurant may cause you to raise your eyebrows, but they’re housed in better conditions than animals in the local zoo. Near the Martyrs’ Cemetery. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ALB Park restaurants Magic Blue H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 227 35 55. A modern seafood restaurant in the blloku fi tted out rusti c-styl e. The catch of the day can be inspected fresh on a bed of i ce beside the entrance and you can simpl y choose the fish of your liking, or you could order one of the many seafood opti ons on the menu, whi ch includes octopus, calamari, shrimps, salmon and more. There's li ve piano musi c ever y Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (550-3400 l ek). PLEB Post-socialist slogans at the entrance into town 30 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 31 NIGHTLIFE January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com All cafes and bars offer espresso (kafe ekspres) or Turkish coffee (kafe turke). More upscale places will also serve American-style coffee (kafe filter). The only Starbucks-type place in town so far is Gregory’s. Artist Lounge H-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 12, tel. +355 68 348 54 90, [email protected]. A unique, bright and spacious café serving fresh fruit juices and smoothies, coffee, sweet and hearty crepes, sandwiches, pasta, salads and baguettes. Recommended for a heal thy snack or lunch, though service can be tediousl y slow when it’s busy. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. PGB Bardhe e Zi H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 224 70 89. The biggest attraction in ‘Black and White’ is the huge black-and-white photograph collection of Albanian artist Artur Gorishti. Modem and comfortable, this café serves a damn good cappuccino. Near the corner wi th Rr. Ismail Qemali. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PBW Delikatesë H-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 12, tel. +355 4 224 54 24. Delicious home-made cakes and sweet chocolatey things served in a restaurant that also has various Italian dishes on he menu. Perfect for an indulgent lunch.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Gregory’s Coffee H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers. A modern coffee and sandwich bar on the ground floor of the Twin Towers. Panini fillings include omelet, chicken and Albanian-style meatballs and cheese. Eat/drink in, or take away. Also on the Durrës highway in the Praktiker DIY store. Juna I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Sited in one of the busiest areas of town by the university bookstore, Juna is busy all day long. Could be the location, or the good fresh coffee they serve. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. B Mojo H-5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji. Big blurry photos and big lamps set the scene for Mojo’s hip crowd. A bright café serving drinks and snacks such as sandwiches and toast, Mojo is officiall y a no-smoking café even though everyone happil y ignores that. From 17:00-20:00 on weekdays, free snacks come with the drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00. GW Noi Café Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 5, Vesa Center, tel. +355 4 224 73 53. Overlooking the street from the third floor of the Vesa complex, Noi is a pleasant and modern ‘gourmet café’ with an amazing range of wood-roasted single-origin and blended coffee on the menu. For something reall y special try CAFÉS when the place fills up on Wednesday and Saturday for live performances by local bands. Near the Sky Tower. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. PEBW Kuki G-3, Blv. Gjergj Fishta, Pall. Italiane 4. Get a shot of cul ture in this well-hidden artist's café. The grey walls are hung with Albanian modern art, while minimal and modern music is played on the stereo. On Friday evenings the café hosts video sessions of live concerts and documentaries, followed by DJ music. Beside the car park, right behind the Friends Book House. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Beer 200 lek. PBW Living Room F-5, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush 16, tel. +355 4 226 51 30/+355 67 203 32 25. Literally a cool bar, as after a hot summer's day the large rooftop lounge area catches the evening breeze. That's when the pretty people dress up and come out in force to cram themselves on the multilevel decks overlooking the city. In winter, retreat to the first floor of the building with its living room style bar. The restaurant (summer only) serves good pasta and fish dishes, though it's the cocktails and daily DJ parties that interest the majority of visitors. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Beer 400 lek. PAEBK Meduza H-5, Rr. Mustafa Mahotiti, tel. +355 4 222 35 98. A large bar in the wacky pallati me birila building. English and Australian beers are on tap, there's a good-value lunch menu and in the evening a selection of Italian, Lebanese and international dishes is served, followed by cocktails. There's live music on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday with Salsa dancing, DJs and bands. QOpen 06:00 - 01:00. Beer 400 lek. PEB MonarC Bar F-5, , tel. +355 4 227 45 11, www.monarc. al. The bar on the top floor of the hotel is worth mentioning for the dazzling views across town from i ts wrap-around terrace, and the waterfall that cools drinkers in summer. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Order a bottle of mineral water with your meal, and chanc- es are that you’ll get sparkling water that was shipped all the way from France, Italy or further away – usually at a high price for both the environment and the diner’s wallet. All this while Albania has excellent and abundant mineral water, and several good brands such as Glina and Tepelena are on the market. Join TIYP in asking restaurant managers to have at least one local brand on the menu so patrons have the choice. The Albanian economy needs all the support it can get, and this will help in a small way. Drink ujë, not aqua Where is the nearest bar / club? Ku ndodhet klubi më I afërt? I need a... Dua një ….. ... beer birrë ... wine verë ... cocktail koktell ... cigarette cigare ... lighter çakmak ... ashtray tabak ... man burr ... woman grua Where can I find a taxi? Ku mund ta gjejë një taksi? You have beautiful eyes. Keni sy të bukur. Your place or mine? Vendi im apo I yti? Where I come from, that’s illegal. Prej nga unë vij, kjo është jo legale. Pub talk "This is one east European capital the stags might want to miss" wrote travel journalist Simon Calder in the UK's Independent paper. Though we don't want to encourage the bachelor party scene to spread to Albania, Simon clearly reads the wrong guidebooks as Tirana's nightli fe scene is not bad at all, and is certainly improving fast. The fun starts with the lively xhiro (mass evening stroll), and ends at the bllok's bustling cafes, bars and clubs. There's a fine line between cafés, bars and clubs (and indeed workplaces) in Albania, and some venues that we have listed as cafés or bars are known to morph into clubs on weekend nights. You'll know when the sound gets cranked up and long-legged promo or gogo girls climb onto your table. Bars Buda Bar H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 202 70 42. Al though there are enough Buddha Bars in the world to start a religion, this is certainl y a nice addition to Tirana's nightlife scene; a diml y lit lounge with ottomans and couches to flop around on. There's good ventilation, Indian wooden screens, chilled-out music, and attentive staff. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAEB Bulevard Café G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers, tel. +355 4 228 03 34. Inspired by Tirana and the letter B (note the shape of the café), the Bulevard is a great night option serving drinks to a thirtyish crowd on the third floor of the twin towers. Sit at the bar under a ceiling with photos of Old Tirana, or hang out in the curious booths lining the walls. Try to visit when Roberto, a talented Italian artist, croons his evergreens on weekend nights, followed by DJs. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. Beer 300 lek. PW Charl’s Bistro H-4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani 36, tel. +355 69 202 29 01, www.charlsbistro.com. An ecl ecti c, fashionable thirtyish crowd populates this fantastic lounge bar wi th 1960s-80s inspired music in the bllok area. The somewhat oddl y spel t Charl’s regularl y puts on li ve music acts from across the regi on and vari ous other events from Thursday to Saturday, but the cocktail bar in the lush small garden spi ts out great drinks all week. QOpen 24 hrs. PEBW Converse G/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha. The students, artists and intellectuals that visit this tiny basement 'social club' to sip coffee and play chess seem the exact opposites of the loud hairy men slamming down shots at Steelwings next door. A good place to pick up conversation with young Tiranians, recite poetry or pin your own home-made art on the walls. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Beer 100 lek. P Flares H-4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 209 99 10, [email protected]. Squeeze yourself into this bar at the weekend and be pre- pared for a singalong or even a star turn. When the karaoke is turned off, just relax and enjoy the modern Albanian art on display. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. Beer 300 lek. PABW Flex H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, 56, tel. +355 68 222 07 00. A pleasant enough bar, but if you go right to the back, following the corridor on your right, you're in a different place. This part is bathed in a relaxing creamy yellow glow from the overhead canopy - you're out in the open here. This helps keep the air moving holding down a 1,500 lek cup of Kopi Luwak, Indonesian cof- fee made from beans that have passed through the bowels of a civet (an animal that looks like a weasel), acquiring a ‘strong complex flavour’ along the way. In the evening, a buffet of free snacks is offered with the drinks. Bring the kids, there’s a Playstation corner. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PT Pastiçeri International I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 225 67 50. The onl y thing international about this place might be your presence - but it’s still one of the bet- ter places to go to get your sugar-and-coffee fix. Wolf down tarts and various other pastries - if you can find a seat, that is. The children will love the small playground in the adjacent park. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Also on Rr. Durrësit, and Rr. Sami Frashëri. PB Quo Vadis H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27, tel. +355 4 226 65 90. A popular café at the bllok’s main crossroads. The deep red walls provide the perfect backdrop for the hip, young and rich to do their thang. We recommend ordering a coffee, a pint of hair gel and a clipped goatee. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B Sky Club Café G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5, tel. +355 4 222 16 66. The floor of the glass box on top of Albania’s highest building revolves slowly to give a 360-degree panorama of the city, electricity permitting. That’s also the main reason to come - the coffee and cakes on offer are pricey and no better than those at ground level. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Groups: admission 250 lek/person. P Stephen Center Café E-5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1, tel. +355 4 223 47 48, www.stephencenter.com. Set up by evangelical missionaries who certainl y know how to run a good café, this is one of Tirana’s best, a cosmopolitan meet- ing place for locals and foreigners alike. There’s a pleasant terrace and a cosy smoke-free interior with a poster of New York’s twin towers. There’s free wifi, fresh juice, 90 lek bottom- less coffee, salads, pastas, sandwiches, pancakes, burgers, pizza, Mexican dishes, English breakfast and on Saturdays waffles. Amen! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (600-750 lek). PTAGBW Epër7shme G-5, Rr. Jul Variboba 2, tel. +355 4 227 12 88. A lovel y book café, unfortunatel y with very few English-language ti tles in the shop section. Find the friendl y owners and their friends hanging out at the café section at the back, specialising in tea. The name means ‘suitable’ - and it’s more than that. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. PBW Friend’s Book House G-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 226 67 77, [email protected]. For literary insomniacs: a non-stop bookshop, café and reading room that also has a quiet study room in the basement. There are not many English-language titles on offer but you can al ways bring your own book or newspa- per along. Near the main police station, just north of the river. Q Open 24hrs. PJBW Book cafés Drinks at the Steel wings biker bar 32 NIGHTLIFE Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Noel F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 224 36 38. A film lover's den of delights, Noel is appropriatel y owned by the director of the local film institute, and is set in a base- ment opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. A mature crowd of cul ture vul tures can be found sitting eating and drinking at tables amidst hundreds of magazine photos of movie icons and scenes. Food on offer includes traditional tava and qofte meatballs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, 19:00-24:00. Closed Sun. Papafingo H-3, Rr. Gjin Bue Shpata, tel. +355 67 210 43 57. This student bar runs on love and dedication rather than on permits, but it's a fun place to share dirt-cheap drinks (Birra Korça 150 lek) with the studying masses. Papafingo is Albanian for attic, and it's indeed found hidden, unmarked, on the top floor of a nondescript building; enter at the 'Midnight Passion' sign opposite the Raiffeisen bank and head up the dangerousl y narrow staircase at your own risk. Radio H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 29/1, tel. +355 69 28 44 24. One of Tirana's cooler bars, covered in old radio station logos, a Guernica painting, a typewriter on a stool and a few antique radios scattered around. Filled with students and others on most nights, it's a relaxed place to listen to chilled music and chat. Find it in an apartment building set back from the street. Rock 'n Roll I-6, Rr. Dervish Hima. A small bar with classic green and red wallpaper and a great atmosphere, very popular with locals and foreigners alike. Mercifull y, no house music is played here, just honest blues, country and the odd rock 'n roll song, with DJs sometimes dropping by to spin their discs. The usual drinks are served, with a good selection of whiskeys to fuel the night. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. B Rockwood H-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, N°11/1, tel. +355 68 401 78 15. A small and friendl y bar on the ground floor of a tall office building (also conveniently housing the IYP offices), serving endless coffees by day and playing rock and other music styles at night. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. Steelwings (Harley Davidson Bar) G/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 202 23 31, www.steelwings-albmc. com. Official home of the Steelwings Albania Motorcycle Club and easily located by the multitude of cool rides parked outside, this rocking bar full of leather-clad motorbike enthusiasts is deco- rated with all the usual Americana. It's a very friendly place, and the owners Tani and Dani stress that everyone is welcome. Visit on Thursdays for the unplugged sessions or on weekend nights for live rock and country music. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. EB Stylus Club Marriott H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 4 226 54 42. A café and bar behind Enver Hoxha's old villa that reall y comes alive during the Friday and Saturday night karaoke sessions - warble along to your favourite Albanian or foreign song together wi th the Magic 4 group (www. magic4.4mg.com). The karaoke starts at 22:30. Tiki I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi. Surf's up at the tropical-style Tiki Bar, where surfboards stand in the sand, a ropey ship-theme domi- nates the two-storey interior, and palm leaf parasols shade the cocktail-sipping patrons from the Albanian sun. Wednesdays sees bands play live ere, while house and R&B DJs take over on Friday and Saturday. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 04:00. EB Tirana Rock I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 260 06 57. One of Tirana's best bars has a lot of wood, wild parties and loud rock music played every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Their classic Tirana Rock Café T-shirts sold out in no time, ask to see i f they're available again. Admission is free, though beer costs more when bands play. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PE Read more reviews at http://tirana.inyourpocket.com The latest trend in Tirana; sophisticated interiors, quiet music and a good selection of wines to sample. Alcora G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers, tel. +355 4 228 01 42. A popular and stylishly upmarket wine bar on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers complex. The locals come here for the see-and-be-seen factor and nip coffee and wine or taste the antipasta dishes. There’s a very nice terrace with views of the treetops, budgies in a cage and a tree lit up pink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB Bonaparte G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 69 407 47 03. The most upmarket wine bar in town can be found on the first floor here. Overlooked by a portrait of Napoleon, visitors can get sozzled on a dizzying array of quality French wines, cognac and over 30 types of whiskey. Exclusive Armagnac brandy is also served at €1500 a bottle or a mere €150 per glass. Snacks are served, as are Cuban cigars that may be smoked here. On our visit, we were treated to a delicious dry and fruity Bordeaux wine, a 2005 Chateau Lagasse. Yum. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Enoteca Joan H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 8, tel. +355 69 207 35 90. A wine-lovers’ café run by a sommelier - what could possibly be better? Sample a large variety of mainly Italian wines, as well as some great Italian and French dishes, in this small venue that’s set back from the road. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 18:30 - 23:00. (600-900 lek). Wine Spirit I-3, Rr. Andon Zako Çajupi, tel. +355 69 208 84 81. Hidden deep in the bllok area near the Conad supermarket, this is one of Tirana’s better wine bars, with a dark wood interior with old carpets and a grand piano. The walls are lined with wine bottles, as they should be, and the selection of Italian, French and other foreign wines is complemented by a selection of Albanian reds, of which Kajoshi is worth a try. There’s Italian food on offer (pasta, seafood) and on Friday and Saturday evenings there’s live tinkling on the piano. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. PE Wine bars Imagine H-6, Rr. Themistokli Gjërmenji, tel. +355 68 206 10 88. A rock bar with a homage to the late great John Lennon, with black and white photos of him and other famous musicians lining the walls. Imagine is pleasant enough for some late-night drinking, but is at its best when live rock music is played on Fridays and Saturdays. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PE Rei Jazz Club I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 5, Vesa Center, tel. +355 4 227 88 87. A great bar dedicated to re- corded and live jazz music on the ground floor of the Vesa Center building. Only drinks are served, and there’s a good variety of beer, wine,cocktails and dozens of whiskeys available. At 22:30 on Friday and Saturday nights, local and foreign artists play live; the admission fee charged on these nights includes a drink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Admission on concert nights 1,500 lek. Jazz Clubs 34 NIGHTLIFE Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 35 WHAT TO SEE January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Raum H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 337 02 01. How l oud can a student bar get? Raum does i ts best to put thi s to the test, and the crowd dancing away the ni ght in thi s first-fl oor bar must be deaf for days af ter the par t y. Expect fri endl y students, cheap cocktail s, sweat y moves on the dance fl oor and rup- tured eardrums. Sharm Club I-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 224 90 26, www.sharm-club.net. With a large outdoor space for cool- ing down on warm nights, Sharm is a disco club done up in outrageous colours and materials (think glass floors, padded walls and Ionian pillars), and playing the usual house hits to a happy crowd. Just east of the Sheraton. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00-03:00. PE Venue Dance Club Rr. Sadik Petrela 20, tel. +355 68 301 21 13, www.venuedanceclub.com. A rocking dance club with a rather strange name playing house and dance music, with occasional stage shows and live music. There's a terrific party atmosphere and cheap drinks. The club is northeast of the centre near Rruga Qemal Stafa, near the ring road; tell the cabbie it's near Profarma. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00-04:30. PAE Pubs Irish Bar Tirana H-4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani. A fan- tasti c Iri sh bar in Tirana's bll ok area, wi th several Iri sh beers on offer, though l acki ng pub grub. There are TV screens showi ng spor ts. The best thi ng about the bar i s the buzzing atmosphere and the pl easant outsi de seating area. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. B Bar & Night club adresa: Rruga Murat Toptani Kompleksi, Millennium Zero 42 H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani. A popular and very sleek black-and-white lounge bar decorated with photos of blond beau- ties. Join the in-crowd to sip wine, down cocktails and talk the talk, or dance the dance to the live music occasionally planned on Saturdays. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PE Casinos Regency Casino G-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Rinia Park, Taiwan, tel. +355 4 227 47 39, www.regen- cycasino.al. The casino inside the Tai wan complex has 20 gaming tables and 250 slot machines. Dress up, bring ID and be older than 21 to get in. Clubs Folie F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 69 208 77 33, [email protected], www.myspace.com/foliebar. Playing ‘selected music for good people’ in an extravagant three-storey space with plenty of glass balconies for making yourself seen, Folie has burst on the scene as Tirana’s best new club. Set beside the Millennium cinema, the club has a fantastic outdoor terrace area too. Watch the website and posters for their themed nights. Lollipop H-4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani 32, tel. +355 69 210 13 13, [email protected], www.myspace.com/lollipop- tirana. An achingl y trendy club for Tirana's coolest people, with lots of brushed steel, sofas in vivid red and blinding white and polka dots on the wall. At the weekend the DJs come out and do their thing competing against the live bands at Charl's Bistro across the street. Strictl y a house and dance music venue. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Beer 400 lek. PB Tirana’s sights are quite low-key, and therefore the must-sees can nearly be counted on one finger. If time allows you to take in some culture, follow our short city walk (see page 36), visiting the Et’hem Bey Mosque and the National History Museum before getting a coffee in the bllok area. Essential Tirana of the city, new shops, offices, apartments and a cinema mul tiplex. Starting with the empty spot to the west of the National History Museum, it looks like Tirana's main square will finall y be hip. Museums & Galleries Archaeological Museum (Muzeu Arkeologjik) I-5, Sheshi Nënë Tereza, tel. +355 4 222 65 41. Archeology buffs who aren't satisfied by the finds on display at the National History Museum will find even more fragments of various finds here, from pottery and animal statuettes to arrowheads and jewellery. QOpen 10:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Art Gallery (Galleria e Arteve) F-4/5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 223 39 75. Thoroughl y looted in 1997, this gallery has seen a comeback since mayor Edi Rama's election, and now hosts a varied collection that's worth browsing through. Apart from an impressi ve selec- tion of medieval icons, there's a good hall devoted to realist socialist art, with busts, paintings and a very sexy statue of a factory worker. There are also usuall y a few temporary art exhibitions going on. Al though the building needs some work, the garden outside has recentl y been beautifull y restored. Walk to the rear of the building to find some discarded but still defiant Communist-era partizan statues clenching their fists at the sky. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 lek, Sunday free. Mezuraj Museum (Mezuraj Muze) E-3, Rr. Kavajës, Sun Business Centre, tel. +355 4 226 71 96, www. mezuraj.museum. Tirana's first private museum consists of the 800-object Mezuraj famil y collection of which a changing selection is on display. Two rooms are dedicated to Albanian paintings and sculptures, wi th a striking Socialist Realist depiction of happy young people on a harvest campaign. There are also various archaeological artefacts on display, including Greek amphorae, beautiful bronze-age jewellery, 4th century weights, spearheads, and a plate from the sunken Italian warship 'Po'. Find the museum above the Raiffeisen bank on the first floor of the tall business centre 500m from Skanderbeg Square; enter on the right side of the building. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 300 lek, children under 12 free. Main sights Central Market (Pazari i ri) E-5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi. Small fruit and vegetable stalls can be found across the city, but the dail y pazari i ri ('new market') trul y captures the spirit of the country in a messy explosion of colour, people, fresh produce and trash. Apart from fruit, vegetables, fish and meat, the stalls display a dozen varieties of olives, cheeses, wines and raki throughout small squares and snaking alleyways. Animal rights activists won't like the sight of bunches of live chickens slung over bicycle handlebars, but at least these chicks didn't grow up in our Guantanamo poul try farms. Earl y morning is the best time of day to witness Balkan-style trad- ing and haggling. Martyrs' Cemetery (Varrezat e Dëshmorëve) Rr. Elbasanit. This cemetery holds the remains of 900 partisans who fought for Tirana in WWII. The 12m-high dynamic white statue of Mother Albania, inaugurated in 1972, watches over the graves in a windswept gown. Enver Hoxha used to be buried at her feet until he fell from grace in 1991. From the heights of the cemetery, Tirana and Mt. Daj ti are spread out panoramicall y before you. A short drive on the bus to Sauk. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Pyramid (International Culture Centre) G-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. The pyramid, as i t's popularl y known, opened in 1988 as a museum dedicated to the Alba- nian dictator-cum-pharaoh Enver Hoxha. Designed by Hoxha's daughter Pranvera, the building was reportedl y the most expensive ever erected in Albania. After the regime collapsed, the place became a conference center and disco (called The Mummy, of course). Currentl y it's being renovated to house a theatre. In front of the building, the Peace Bell installation was made in 1999 as a memorial to peace by the children of Shkodra. The bell's metal comes from thousands of bullet cartridges, fired off during the lawless 1990s. Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) E-4, . Tirana's main square, Sheshi Skënderbej, is that vast expanse of asphal t where you‘ve got to dodge both Mercedes and plastic kiddie cars. The square was large even before World War II, but the Communists made it absolutel y massive (and in the process, cleared away an old bazaar). Started in 1958, the pompous Palace of Culture was built with Soviet assistance. But when Albanian-Soviet relations dete- riorated, the chief Soviet engineer on the project gathered up all the blueprints and left the country. Chinese experts had to be called in to finish the job. Today this building contains the Opera and the National Library. The mosaic on the facade of the National History Museum represents the flow of Albanian history. The Puppet Theater has a surprising past: before World War II, it housed King Zog‘s puppet parliament. Other sights here include the imposing red-brick National Bank, the Et‘hem Bey Mosque and Skanderbeg's statue. Recent plans envision a complete makeover of Tirana's city centre over the next years, with a green and pedestrianised main square, 80m-high buildings accentuating the core Mosaic fragment at the Shëngjin Church ruin 36 WHAT TO SEE Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 37 WHAT TO SEE January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com National History Museum (Muzeu Historik Kom- bëtar) E-4, Sheshi Skenderbej, tel. +355 4 222 34 46, [email protected], www.albmuseum.com. You can't miss the gargantuan mosaic on the facade - it rep- resents the development of Albania's history with everyone from Illirians to partisans represented. Inside, each hall covers one of the stages in the development of the Albanian nation. Repeated looting in the 1990s has robbed the museum of many artefacts, but it remains the best place in Albania to tank up on history and to view beautiful finds from the many archeological sites across the country. One hall focuses on the years around the Second World War and the resistance movements, while the museum ends with a harrowing exhibi- tion about Albania's gruesome labour camp system and the thousands of men and women who were swallowed by it. There are some English texts but it's best to bring an Albanian for a better understanding. The museum shop is an excellent place to shop for traditional crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 lek. Shëngjin Church Mosaic (Mozaiku i Tiranës) E-2, Rr. Naim Frashëri. An excavated Byzantine-era church ruin that was only discovered in 1972 boasts Tirana's oldest artworks: mosaics with geometric patterns and depictions of poultry and fish. Nicely exhibited in a little park and protected by a makeshift roof, there are also various stones, some from the church iconostasis, scattered around the site. Unfortunately there's little in the way of explanations. A little obscure but well worth a look if you're in this part of town: look for the Hallall pizzeria on the northern end of the street, and walk 100 metres west. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Churches Cathedral of St. Paul (Katedralja e Shen Palit) G-5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 4 223 46 55. Tirana’s Catholic ca- thedral looks somewhat bland on the outside save for the statue of St Paul perched on the roof, but it has a quite nice interior with impressive concrete architecture. Note Mother Teresa and Pope John Paul II featured in the stained glass windows. Q Open 08:30-12:30, 17:00-19:00, winter afternoons: 16:00-19:00. Catholic Church (Kisha Katolike) F-3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 224 86 91, [email protected]. Buil t in 1865, the Catholic Church of St. Marie was a gift of Franz Jo- sef, the Austro-Hungarian emperor. In 1967 - when all religious activity in Albania was banned - it was closed and turned into a cinema. It reopened as a church in 1990. Orthodox Cathedral F-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Under construction, the massive new Orthodox cathedral currentl y looks like a nuclear power plant but will assume a more church-like look when it’s finished in 2010. Orthodox Church (Kisha Orthodokse) F-2, Rr. Kavajës 151, tel. +355 4 223 50 95, www.orthodoxalbania.org. The Orthodox Church of the Holy Annunciation was built in 1964, but closed in 1967 and was then used to house the Tirana Sports Club. Services resumed in 1990. The Orthodox Church of Albania first became autocephalous in 1937 and again in 1992. Ottoman Tirana Clock Tower (Kulla e sahatit) F-4/5, Sheshi Sken- derbej, tel. +355 4 224 32 92. Tirana's landmark central sight is the clock tower from 1822. Brightl y lit at night, it can be seen from the far end of Rr. Durrësit when entering the city. Started off by Et`hem Bey, completed by the locals and extended to 35m in 1928, when a German-made clock was also installed, it was for long the highest building in town, and Tirana’s most signi ficant buildings are concentrated along one thoroughfare: the Boulevard of the Martyrs (Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit). The walk described below, from Skanderbeg Square to the Pol ytechnic University, will take you past Tirana’s highlights in a flash. Starting underneath the mosaic of the National Museum on Skanderbeg Square, pass Et’hem Bey Mosque to- wards the elegant government buildings at the end of the square, housing ministries and the town hall. These were built in the 1930s, during the rule of King Zog. The grand boulevard leading south from here was the brainchild of the Italian Fascists, who held parades here during World War II. It later became the venue for the locals’ xhiro (evening stroll). In fact, it used to be closed off to traf- fic in evenings - what bliss that would be now. Cross the next street (Rruga Myslym Shyri) and on your left is the Fine Arts Gallery, then, hidden behind trees, Hotel Dajti. On your right is Rinia Park, which was until a few years ago buried beneath illegally built bars and pizzerias. The municipality reclaimed the area, and with popular support bulldozed the buildings in order to restore the park. Walk across the next wide streets (Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark; Bulevardi Bajram Curri) and perhaps without noticing you’ve crossed the Lana River, whose green banks were also crammed with illegal buildings until order was restored. Here you arrive at the ‘pyramid’. On your right, next to the ugliest new business centre in townis a small park with the busts of the three Frashëri brothers. Just past the next crossing on your left is the Prime Minister’s Residence, which was once the Communist Party headquarters. During official demonstrations and parades, Party leaders stood on the balcony here and waved to the masses below. On the right is the former Party Committee building. Beyond Rruga Ismail Qemali you’ll pass the Hotel Rogner Europapark, and a little further the Palace of Congresses, a boldly modernist building of mirrored glass and dynamic horizontal lines. Maybe it’s the latter that gives the building a weird resemblance to a sports stadium. Originally built for Party congresses, the Palace now hosts concerts, festivals and fairs. On your right, fenced off and concealed behind pine trees, is the President’s Palace. This building served as the Soviet embassy until 1961, when all diplomatic relations were broken off, and for a while thereafter it housed parliament. The disproportionately large, empty square at the end of the boulevard is Sheshi Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa Square), named for the nun who was arguably the most famous Albanian of the 20th century. To the left is the Archaeological Museum; on the right, the Art Academy. At the very end of the boulevard stands the Polytechnic University, originally erected by the Italian Fascists. Its imposing stone façade certainly seems better fitted for reviewing goose-stepping soldiers from than for studying in. Going further down the paths on either side of the university whisks you out of urban Tirana and into the Grand Park. City walk Just over 15 years ago, all Albania was a living Stalinist themepark. Since then, most of the ‘attractions’ have disappeared, but a few relics are still left over (including the entrance fee you pay at the border to get into this amusement park). During the communist era, the bllok (block) area, was off-limits to the public and cordoned off by armed guards. This was the residential area of Party leaders. The col- lection of villas here, impressive enough by Western standards, absolutely dazzled the average Albanian once this area was opened to the public. The three- story, modular home on the corner of Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. Ismail Qemali was dictator Enver Hoxha’s villa, which is now a government residence. After Hoxha’s death, the Enver Hoxha Memorial (the pyramid) was built in his honour. And a massive gilded statue of Hoxha was erected on Skanderbeg Square - you can still see the raised pedestal. It was dramatically toppled by demonstrators in 1991, and Hoxha’s longstanding cult of personality was over. After the regime collapsed, not even Hoxha’s remains could evade the judgement of history. Originally buried with honours in the Martyrs’ Cemetery, Hoxha was dug up in 1992 and unceremoni- ously filed away in Kombinati Cemetery in west Tirana. A statue of Lenin once stood on Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, in front of the Fine Arts Gallery. Across the street stood a bust of Joseph Stalin - probably the last place in Europe where he was thus honoured. Uncle Joe’s head was carted away before the fall of the regime at the end of 1990, but this symbolical de-Stalinisation came too late to save the leaders. Behind the Ministry of the Interior on Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit stood the headquarters of the Sigurimi (state security police). The feared Sigurimi ran labor camps for political prisoners and maintained a network of informers (known as ‘80 lek men,’ for the monthly 80 lek bonus they supposedly got for snitching on their countrymen). The Fine Arts Gallery has some Socialist Realist statues and paintings that are worth a look, and you can find some of Tirana’s last Commie statues huddled in a group behind the building. The best place to get more information about Albania’s totalitarian years is the Na- tional History Museum which has a large hall dedicated to the period. Communist sights Worker statues of Tirana, united JvM the views of the city centre from the top are worth the climb. The shadow of the tower strikes the mosque at sunset, an event long used to demark the closing time of the formerl y adjacent market place. Q Open Mon 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:00-13:00, 16:00-18:00. Admission 100 lek. Et'hem Bey Mosque F-4, Sheshi Skenderbej, tel. +355 4 222 37 01. Perhaps the only real sight in Tirana, this pretty mosque is right on the city's main square, making it hard to miss. Construction of the 'Xhamia e Haxhi Ethem Beut' mosque started in 1794 and was finished in 1821 by Et'hem Bey (who evidently got all the credit). Closed under communist rule, the mosque reopened as a house of worship in 1991, without permission from the authorities. 10,000 courageous people dared to attend and remarkabl y the police did not interfere. The event was a milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. Take a look at the frescoes outside and in the portico which depict trees, waterfalls and bridges - motifs rarel y seen in Islamic art. Take your shoes off before entering the inner room. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 14:00-18:00. Fortress of Justinian (Kalaja) F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani. When this fortress was buil t in the 6th century, Albania was but an outpost on the western fringe of the Byzantine Em- pire. The fortress the place where the main east-west and north-south roads crossed, and formed the heart of Tirana. About all that's left of the fortress above ground is a 6m-high Ottoman-era wall, covered in vines. In late 2008, archaeolo- gists uncovered the extensive fortress foundations that will soon be incorporated into the pedestrianised street. Galeria Shijaku (Sali Shijaku House) B-5, Rr. V. Luarasi, tel. +355 4 226 14 58. A large Ottoman-era konak house surrounded by a lovel y garden and a high wall. There's a shady café terrace in the garden, while the high main room has been converted into an art gallery. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. House of the Dervish Khorosani D-4, Rr. Barrikadave. A pretty 19th century wooden building set in a small courtyard. Next to the gate is an octagonal türbe holding the graves of three babas. Find the house in a small courtyard 100m beyond the French cul tural institute. Tanners' Bridge (Ura e tabakëve) F-6, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush, intersection with Blv. Zhan D`Ark. This elegant Ottoman stone footbridge was once the main connection between Tirana and the highlands to the east. It was used to get agricultural produce and livestock across the Lana River to the markets, and sits in the area of skinners and leather workers. The Lana was rerouted in the 1930s and the bridge was neglected, even- tually becoming a rubbish tip. It's now restored to its former glory and is used by pedestrians again. Watch out - slippery when wet. Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe C-4, Rr. Dervish Hatixhe. Dedi- cated to the female Bektashi Islamic saint Dervish Hatixhe who was the Tirana Nightingale, nursing people through a cholera epidemic. On her death in 1798 a tekke was founded near her turbe (grave). It miraculously survived the communist era and is still visited by people of varying religions, especially women. A corridor leads past a soot-blackened candle room to where the graves of Hatixhe and her family members can be seen. Tomb of Kaplan Pasha (Tyrbe e Kapllan Pasha) F-5, Rr. 28 Nëntori. This türbe, or tomb, dates from 1817. It honours Kaplan Pasha, who ruled Tirana in the earl y 19th century. It consists of eight classical columns linked by arches. Left derelict, trash-strewn and half-sunk into the pavement and lit onl y by a blue neon lamp for many years, it is now to be renovated and graciousl y shielded by the concave wall of the high-rise building currentl y under construction next to it. On Skanderbeg Square 38 WHAT TO SEE Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 39 January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com AROUND TOWN Parks & Gardens Botanical gardens (Kopshti Botanik) , tel. +355 4 222 52 87. Part of Tirana University's Facul ty of Natural Sciences, Tirana's botanical garden is a pleasant 15-hectare area on the slopes to the southwest of the centre. Founded in 1971, it houses about 1400 species of plants, representing about a third of the Albanian flora. Near to the zoo. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Zoo (Kopshti Zoologjik Tiranë) Grand Park. Vi si ting Tirana's zoo i s a fairl y depressing experi ence. The inmates are kept in a small bl ock that i s di vi ded into ten cell s. The animal s appear to be reasonabl y wel l fed and physi cal l y cared for, but the f i nanci al chal l enges of the i nsti tuti on are evi dent. The pens are small, featurel ess and clad wi th hospi tal til es. The wol f scat ters at any approach to the bars, a monkey gazes at the ceiling, hi s chin resting against the wall. The bedraggl ed gol den eagl es - supposedl y the proud symbol of Al bania - do have a perch, but i t's a steplad- der. A li t tl e fur ther into the park al ong the pond, the lamas don't know how good they have i t in their chal et housing, whil e at the back the gap in the broken fence seems an i deal escape route for the ani mal s when the l ocks finall y rust through. We've heard of plans to overhaul the zoo, but there's been li t tl e acti on till now. Find the zoo's unmarked entrance gate on the square at the end of the Grand Park dam. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admi ssi on 50 l ek. Statues & Monuments Fan Noli Statue E-5, Sheshi Fan Noli. This more than 3m tall, roughl y hewn statue commemorates Fan Noli (1882 - 1965), one of Albania's most revered historical figures. Educated at Harvard, Noli was a wri ter and Or- thodox bishop. He served as prime minister in 1924. In his spare time he translated Shakespeare and Cervantes into Albanian. Mother Teresa statue I-5, Sheshi Nënë Tereza. A mod- est statue of Skopje-born but ethnic Albanian Nënë Tereza or Mother Teresa stands in the southeast corner of the square named after her. Skanderbeg Statue E/F-4, Sheshi Skenderbej. Gj erg j Kastrioti (1405-68), also known as Skanderbeg in English and Skenderbej in Albanian, is the onl y historical figure whom all Albanians agree was a national hero. He managed to create an independent Albanian princedom and keep i t free for 25 long years. After his death, Albania was occupied by the Ottomans, but Skanderbeg's legacy preserved the Albanian national identi ty throughout 500 years of Ottoman rule. Albanians consider him not onl y the father of their nation, but also the man who saved all Europe from the Ottoman Empire. The statue was unveiled in 1968, exactl y 500 years after Skanderbeg's death. Considering the era in which i t was made, i t's sur- prising how li ttle concession the sculptor made to official socialist-realist style. Unknown Partisan Statue F-5, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush. Fist upraised, fighting mad, charging forward with a rifle in his hand - yes, it`s none other than the Unknown Partisan. This statue was erected to honor the many Albanian partisans who gave their lives fighting the fascists. Those guys hanging out around the monument in the morning are not WWII buffs but day labourers waiting for work, with their powerdrills and tools on display. Grand Park (Parku i Madh) K-5, . A short st rol l sout h of cen- tral Tirana, the Grand Park i s a haven from all the traffic and dust. At one time, thousands of the ci t y’s inhabi t- ants came here on hol i days to pl ay and picnic; now i t’s a place for peopl e to snooze af t er l uncht i me, t o fi sh, or to swim. The park i s unfor tunatel y not free of trash, and some locals still think they can dri ve and park their cars on the pedestrian paths, but this may change after the long-announced renovation of the park. Reach the park by walking up the path to the west of the uni versi ty building; you’ll end up near Tirana Lake (romanticall y known by locals as ‘the arti ficial lake’), which has some intriguing crumbling concrete platforms sticking out of i t and is surrounded by pleasant parkland and a few restaurants. Walk west and you’ll soon reach the dam, at the end of which you’ll find Tirana Zoo and a few enterprising car wash businesses using up the lake water. Walk east uphill to find several intriguing memorials. One is the well-tended cemetery for the British troops who died fighting the Germans in WWII. Their sacrifice was long suppressed from the historical record, since Bri tain was considered an imperialist enemy. Nearby stand several grey stones listing the names of all Ger- man soldiers who died in Albania during WWII, some of them buried at this site. Just up the hill are the tombs of the Frashëri brothers, who helped catal yse the Albanian national awakening in the late 19th century. Abdyl was leader of the Prizren League; Sami was a radical agitator for an independent Albanian republic; and Naim was the first major Albanian-language poet. Across the field to the right is an anti-fascist monument. The Palace of the Brigades, which once served as the residence of King Zog, stands at the edge of the park along Rr. Elbasani t and was named for the partisans who captured it in WWII. Now used for official receptions (and with a military headquarters nearby), it is off limits to the public. Rinia Park G-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Until a few years ago, Rinia Park in the city centre was a disgrace- ful mess of illegal constructions, garbage and shady dealings. During the ci ty’s cleanup, the buildings were bulldozed and the resul t is this pleasant spot of green. The park is now the proud focus of the evening xhiro, when thousands of Tiranians stroll around to meet up and chat wi th friends. The spidery whi te building that looks like it could be the lair of some James Bond villain is actuall y one of Tirana’s best attractions. Nicknamed Tai wan, apparentl y for being a sort of island in the park, the complex houses restaurants, a swish terrace café and a multi-level underground bowling alley, and a casino. The main attraction however is the fountain in front of Tai wan which in the evening fascinates hundreds of young and old onlookers with its lightshow. Tirana parks The Grand Park lake AT No trip to Tirana is complete without a trip out of Tirana. When you’ve had enough of dust, mud and traffic, get out and see some of the impressive landscapes in the surrounding area. Black Cave (Shpella e Zeze) For a delightful (half-)day trip away from the city, visit the Shpella e Zeze (Black Cave) in Pelumbas for some fresh air, beautiful rural landscapes, an invigorating walk and some ancient history. From the local bar in Pelumbas village it’s a two-kilometre along a well-prepared path along the Erzen River canyon to the cave entrance, where a guard hands out hardhats - bring a torch. The Black Cave was inhabited in prehistoric times, first by bears who left a scattering of bones, later by humans who dropped all man- ner of tools in the neolithic, bronze and iron ages. To reach Pelumbas village (in Ibë municipality), drive east along the road to Elbasan and turn off at the ‘theatre’ sign, parking at the restaurant by the river. Swimming in the river is possible here. Outdoor Albania (see travel agents) was instrumental in opening up this cave for visitors, and does regular daytrips (€30/25) to the area which include transport, guiding and a traditional meal. Dajti Ekspres Cable Car (Teleferik) Linza, tel. +355 4 37 91 11/+355 69 230 22 15 (shuttle bus), [email protected], www.dajtiekspres.com. Whi sking you up to 1230m above sea l evel in under 15 minutes, the Austrian-buil t Daj ti Express cabl e car on the outskir ts of Tirana is a fun ride. Swooping over pastures, a lake and steep rocks, the 4km route offers great vi ews of the mountain and the ci ty, ending at the edge of Daj ti pi cni c fi eld near the top of the mountain. There you can hike in the lush forests, visi t the Ballkoni Daj ti t restaurant, or take one of the shuttl e vans to the other hillside restaurants. A taxi from the ci ty centre to the lower station should cost about 500 lek. A free shuttle servi ce is availabl e from the terminus of the Porcelan bus from the ci ty centre. I f you’re dri ving, foll ow Rruga Hoxha Taksim east - when you see the si gn indi cating i t’s 150 metres to the l eft you know i t’s still about a kil ometre. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00 (winter 08:00 - 20:00). Cl osed during strong wind. Return ti ckets 500 l ek. Kruja Kruja, 47 km north of Tirana, is touted as a good daytrip from the capital, not only for sightseeing but also for souvenir-hunt- ing. However, if you’ve already been to Berat and Gjirokaster, you may be disappointed with the humble nature of this town, despite its setting and shopping possibilities. The most important sight in Kruja is the semi-ruined citadel area, a fortress dating back to the fifth or sixth century and perched dramaticall y on a rocky outcrop. Onl y by the end of the 12th century was the citadel completed. It weathered many sieges, the most famous being the Ottoman campaigns repulsed by the Albanian warrior Skanderbeg and his men. Kruja thus became a symbol of national resistance - not until 1478 (after Skanderbeg’s death) did the Ottomans succeed in capturing the citadel. One of the few original structures remaining is the clock tower, which was an observation and signalling post. To the left of the citadel‘s main entrance is the Gjergj Kas- trioti Museum (200 lek, open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, closed Mon), buil t to honour the man otherwise known as Skanderbeg, and a shrine for Albanians though less interest- ing for foreigners. The museum was built with a fake medieval façade in 1982 and houses copies of Skanderbeg’s sword and spiky helmet (the originals are in Vienna), paintings and exhibits (mostl y replicas) presenting Skanderbeg’s struggle against the Ottomans. Just down the hill is the excellent small Ethnographic Mu- seum (tel. 053 22 225, open 08:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 20:00, admission 200 lek) which displays the beautiful interior of a traditional Albanian house around 1800. Exhibits include 19th-century folk dress, as well as traditional copper goods and clay utensils. The friendl y caretaker will take you on a whirl wind English-language tour of the rooms. Though usuall y skipped by most visitors, the small streets immediatel y below the Ethnographic Museum are Kruja’s best; narrow and winding past high courtyard walls like they did 500 years ago. Wander around and you’ll come across the old citadel hamam (baths, now converted to a church) and the lovel y Dollma teqe, a Bektashi temple building with impressive decorations. Just outside the citadel is the old bazaar; one street of quaint shops with windows full of antiques, silver filigree jewellery, folk costumes, woven rugs and traditional fel t hats. When you’re done shopping and sightseeing, head for the restaurants at the upper end of the citadel, which offer great views of the surroundings and serve Albanian food. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional copper pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the rows of pillows that surround the Turkish tables of some restaurants. Getting to Kruja: A taxi will cost 2000 - 3000 lek (negotiate this beforehand). The bus costs 150 lek. As Kruja is just 30 minutes from the airport, it can easily be visited in the morning for some last minute shopping before you catch your flight. If you’re driving, you’ll be delighted to hear there are no signs at all to Kruja until just before the citadel. Follow the Shkodra road from Tirana turn right into Fushe Kruje (famous for the George Bush disappearing watch act); go straight through this town and stay on the main road, twisting up through the forest and Kruja town, until you see signs marked Kalaje (fortress). Petrela Castle tel. +355 69 208 8138. One of Albania’s best-preserved castles, Petrela Castle sits picturesquel y on a steep slope overlooking a river, 15 km southeast of Tirana, along the road to Elbasan. On a clear day you can see all the way to Kruja. Emperor Justinian fortified this place to defend the settlement of Dyrrachium (now Durrës). The tower in the centre dates back to 500 AD; surrounding it are walls from the Byzantine period, laid out in a triangle, with round towers at the corners. The castle was used during Skanderbeg’s war against the Turks; his sister Mamica lived here and defended the castle, but it was eventuall y captured and used by Turkish soldiers. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. Admission free. Cable car going up Mount Daj ti 40 GETTING AROUND Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 41 GETTING AROUND January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Arriving in Tirana is not as straightforward and smooth as it should be, but we’re working on it. Once you’re here, keep in mind that as long as you are on the ground it’s go- ing to be a bumpy ride, whether you take a taxi, bus or car. Airport & Airlines Tirana International Airport (TIA, tel. +355 4 38 18 00, lost & found tel. +355 69 206 66 26, www.tirana- airport.com) is officially named Nënë Tereza or Mother Teresa airport, but is also known as Rinas. The airport is 17km northwest of Tirana. The new access road and pas- senger terminal that were opened in 2007 have catapulted the airport into the 21st century, and passing through is a pleasant experience. A taxi to the airport costs about €20, call a yellow Airport Express Taxi (ATE, tel. 223 34 19, 068 204 95 98, 068 207 03 11) and pay 2000 lek, or 2500 lek at night. A trip to the airport usually takes 20 minutes. Parking at the airport is free for 15 minutes, 150 lek for an hour, 720 lek for a day and 3000 lek per week. The Rinas Express airport bus (tel. 069 209 89 08, 069 205 40 02) departs every hour between 07:00 and 19:00 from beside the National Museum on Skenderbeg Square; tickets cost 250 lek and the trip takes under an hour. Buses from the airport to the centre depart every hour between 08:00 and 19:00. Airport facilities include free wifi and an Adrion press shop (open 03:00-21:00) selling newspapers, books, Alba- nia T-shirts and In Your Pocket city guides. Vodafone and Eagle both have shops selling SIM and recharge cards. There’s a tourist information desk in the arrivals area only. The small departures area has fashion, jewellery and duty-free shops (www.albaniadutyfree.com, tel. +355 42 38 19 48, open 07:00-23:00; carton of cigarettes €21), and a small Adrion press shop. Smoking is banned in the terminal, except for a small room in the departures area. Adria Airways (JP) G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, Galeria mall, tel. +355 4 227 26 66, www.adria-airways.com. Flights to Ljubljana. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Aegean Airlines (A3) , tel. +355 4 224 51 00/+355 4 225 33 42. Flies to Athens. Ticketing by Albtours. Albanian Airlines (LV) E-3, Rr. Mine Peza 2, tel. +355 4 223 51 62, fax +355 4 223 51 38, ticketing@albanianair. com, www.albanianair.com. Flights to several European destinations. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Alitalia (AZ) H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Europapark Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 00 23, www.alitalia. it. Flights to Rome. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Austrian Airlines (OS) H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Hotel Europapark, tel. +355 4 223 50 29, www. austrian.com/al. Flights to Vienna. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Belle Air (LZ) Bulevardi Zogu I, Nr.1 Qendra Tregtare Tirana, tel. +355 4 224 01 75, reservation@flybelleair. com, www.belleair.al. Budget flights to Pristina in Kosovo, various Italian cities and summer destinations in Turkey and Egypt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. British Airways (BA) , tel. +355 68 322 90 07, www. ba.com. Flights to London Gatwick. Bulgaria Air (FB) E-3, Rr. Durrësit 64/1, tel. +355 4 223 04 10, www.air.bg. Flights to Sofia. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Germanwings (4U) , www.germanwings.com. Budget summertime flights to Cologne. Jat Airways (JU) E-3, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drin Centre, tel. +355 4 227 25 40/+355 69 202 77 00, fax +355 4 227 25 39, [email protected], www.jat. com. Flights to Belgrade. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Luf thansa (LH) G-5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark, Pallatet e Shallvareve, tel. +355 4 225 80 10, fax +355 4 225 80 11, www.lufthansa.com. Flights to Munich. Local agent: Meridiana Travel & Tours. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Malev (MA) F-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drin Centre, tel. +355 4 222 79 00, fax +355 4 223 45 78, tirana@ malev.hu, www.malev.com. Flights to Budapest. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Olympic Airways (OA) D-4, Blv. Zog I, Veve Business Centre, tel. +355 4 222 89 60, www.olympic-airways. com. Flights to Athens. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Tafa Air (6Y) , tel. +355 69 405 69 52/+355 69 405 69 53, www.tafaair.com. Budget flights to Pristina. Turkish Airlines (TK) E-4, Sheshi Skenderbej, Tirana International Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 49 02/+355 4 222 89 60, fax +355 4 222 89 61, www.turkishairlines.com. Flights to Istanbul. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Buses Despite the importance of bus travel in Albania, Tirana has no bus station and few scheduled departures, so it’s all a bit of a Balkan mess. Bus transport is either in normal buses, increasingly comfortable and with air-conditioning, or in minivans called furgons which may be a bit cheaper and faster, but take risks in blind corners. Most bus departures are between early morning and early afternoon. Only the most popular cities also have connec- tions in the late afternoon too, so it’s best to set off early. International buses often depart from behind the National History Museum, where you’ll also find most of the ticket- ing agencies. Buses to Durrës depart very regularly from beside the train station. Buses to Shkodra depart nearby, from Rruga Karl Gega. Minibuses (furgons) depart as soon as they’re full, starting from various places in town, sometimes trawling through the streets to find more passengers to cram in. See the timetable for approximate operating hours, prices and departure points. It’s a good idea to ask around for the exact departure locations before travel. Furgons heading southeast for Elbasan, Pogradec and Korça will most likely depart from beside the Qemal Stafa stadium and trawl around on Rruga Elbasan. Those south to Berat, Vlora, Gjirokastra and Saranda depart from Nëshërak and Sheshi 21 Djetori, west of the centre. Those heading to the north (Shkodra, Kukës, etc) leave from Sheshi Zogu i Zi or from Laprak, one traffic light further along the Durrës highway. Drita E-4, Rr. Ded Gjon Luli, tel. +355 4 225 12 77, www. dritatravel.com. Buses to Pristina, Athens and Thessaloniki. The first bus agency to have a website and online booking. Interlines D-4, Blv. Zogu I, 39, tel. +355 4 225 18 66. Buses to Greece. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Pollogu Blv. Zogu I, Palati 103 nr 2, tel. +355 4 222 350 00/+355 69 209 49 06. Buses to destinations in Macedonia. Sondor E-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 222 50 63/+355 69 239 49 29. Buses to Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro. Tirana Metropol E-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 36 39/+355 69 284 72 01. Buses to Kosovo (Pristina office tel. 044 614 814, Peja office tel. 044 68 38 78). From Tirana To Tirana Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. –––––6– 07:00 09:00 AMSTERDAM (LV) –––––6– 09:45 11:45 1234567 15:45 18:05 ATHENS (OP) 1234567 14:40 15:05 1––––6– 09:50 12:50 ATHENS (A3) 1––––6– 08:55 09:10 –2–45–7 16:55 19:10 ATHENS (A3) –2–45–7 14:00 16:15 ––3–5–7 16:00 18:20 ATHENS (LV) ––3–5–7 18:30 19:10 1––4–6– 05:10 06:30 BUDAPEST (MA) ––3–5–7 23:10 00:30 1234567 15:10 16:30 BUDAPEST (MA) 1234567 13:10 14:30 1–3–5–– 12:40 14:10 FLORENCE (LZ) 1–3–5–– 15:00 16:30 –––––6– 07:30 09:00 FLORENCE (LZ) –––––6– 09:50 11:20 –––––6– 08:10 10:40 FRANKFURT (LV) –––––6– 11:30 14:00 –2––––– 11:10 13:40 FRANKFURT (LV) –2––––– 14:40 17:10 –––4––– 12:00 14:30 FRANKFURT (LV) –––4––– 15:40 18:10 ––––––7 15:45 18:15 FRANKFURT (LV) ––––––7 19:25 21:45 1–3––6– 18:10 20:00 GENOVA (LZ) 1–3––6– 21:00 22:50 123–5–– 09:00 11:30 ISTANBUL (LV) 123–5–– 12:30 13:00 ––––––7 13:00 15:55 ISTANBUL (LV) ––––––7 16:55 17:25 1–34––– 10:50 13:25 ISTANBUL (TK) 1–34––– 09:05 09:50 –2––567 14:50 17:25 ISTANBUL (TK) –2––567 18:45 17:30 1234567 15:10 16:30 LJUBJANA (JP) 1234567 13:15 14:20 ––––––7 14:15 16:20 LONDON LGW (BA) ––––––7 09:30 13:30 12–4––– 15:05 17:10 LONDON LGW (BA) 12–4––– 10:20 14:20 –––––6– 19:35 21:40 LONDON LGW (BA) –––––6– 14:45 18:45 1–3–5–7 08:15 10:30 LONDON STN (LV) 1–3–5–7 11:15 15:30 –2–4––– 08:00 09:55 MILAN (LV) –2–4––– 10:45 12:45 ––––––7 18:00 19:55 MILAN (LV) ––––––7 20:45 22:45 1234–67 12:50 14:40 MILAN (LZ) 1234–67 15:30 17:20 ––––5–– 18:00 19:50 MILAN (LZ) ––––5–– 20:50 22:40 1–3–5–– 17:45 19:25 MILAN (AZ) 1–3–5–– 14:55 16:45 ––––––7 12:00 13:45 MILAN (AZ) ––––––7 09:15 11:05 1234567 12:45 14:35 MUNICH (LH) 1234567 10:25 12:10 –––4––7 11:20 12:50 NAPLES (LZ) –––4––7 13:40 15:10 ––3–5–7 15:00 17:45 PARIS (LV) ––3–5–7 18:30 21:15 –––4––7 07:50 08:40 PRISTINA (LZ) –––4––7 16:30 17:20 123–56– 13:30 14:20 PRISTINA (LZ) 123–56– 15:10 16:00 1234567 18:40 19:30 PRISTINA (LZ) 1234567 10:30 11:20 –2––––– 08:15 09:05 PRISTINA (LV) –2––––– 09:40 10:30 1–––––– 09:00 09:50 PRISTINA (LV) 1–––––– 10:05 11:15 –––4––– 13:45 14:35 PRISTINA (LV) –––4––– 15:10 16:00 –––––6– 19:30 20:20 PRISTINA (LV) ––––––7 06:55 07:45 1234567 09:00 09:30 PRISTINA (6Y) 1234567 15:10 15:40 1234567 12:00 12:30 PRISTINA (6Y) 1234567 18:00 18:30 1234567 06:00 07:25 ROME (AZ) 1234567 10:00 11:25 1234567 12:05 13:30 ROME (AZ) 1234567 22:00 23:25 1–3–––– 07:30 08:55 ROME (LZ) 1–3–––– 10:00 11:30 –2–4–67 12:10 13:35 ROME (LZ) –2–4–67 14:40 16:10 ––––5–– 17:00 18:25 ROME (LZ) ––––5–– 19:45 21:00 1–––––– 05:00 06:20 ROME (LV) 1–––––– 07:30 09:00 ––3––6– 09:00 10:20 ROME (LV) ––3––6– 11:30 13:00 –2––––– 03:45 06:35 SOFIA (FB) 1–––––– 17:30 18:40 ––––5–– 11:20 13:59 SOFIA (FB) –––4––– 21:10 22:15 –––––6– 12:10 14:10 STUTTGART (LZ) –––––6– 15:50 17:50 1–3–5–– 13:55 15:55 TURIN (LV) 1–3–5–– 16:55 18:55 ––––––7 09:00 11:00 TURIN (LV) ––––––7 12:00 14:00 –2––––– 07:10 09:00 TURIN (LZ) –2––––– 10:00 11:50 ––––––7 18:10 20:00 TURIN (LZ) –––––6– 21:00 22:50 1–3–5–– 05:00 06:35 VIENNA (OS) –2–4–6– 22:15 23:55 1234567 14:20 16:00 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 10:50 12:25 1–––5–– 12:10 14:10 ZURICH (LZ) 1–––5–– 15:50 17:50 ––––5–– 13:45 15:45 ZURICH (LV) –––––6– 16:30 18:30 –––4––– 16:45 18:45 ZURICH (LV) –––4––– 19:30 21:30 This schedule is valid until 27 March 2010, but al ways check flight times before departure. Airline codes: JP = Adria Airways; A3 = Aegean; LV = Albanian Airlines; AZ = Alitalia; OS = Austrian Airlines; LZ = Belle Air; BA = British Airways; FB = Bulgarian Airlines; LH = Lufthansa; MA = Malev ; OP = Ol ympic Air ; 6Y = Tafa Air; TK = Turkish Airlines. Flight schedule 42 GETTING AROUND Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com LRS Center Durrës highway, km 2, tel. +355 69 208 55 79, [email protected], www.lrscenter.com. Land Rovers for rent. Lumani F-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drin/+355 68 409 58 75, [email protected], www.lumanien- terprise.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Noshi Rent a Car D/E-3, Rr. Durrësit 79, tel. +355 4 240 03 00/+355 69 203 78 24, reservations@noshi. al, www.noshi.al. Budget rental of Chevrolet, Opel, Hyundai and Mitsubishi cars. Small cars from €100 per weekend. At time of writing, Facebook fans got 10% off for rentals shorter than a week. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Sixt E-3, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +355 4 225 90 20, www.e-sixt.com. Also at the airport (tel. +355 69 206 85 00). QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Tirana Car Rentals (TCR) I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri, P. 11, Sh. 4, tel. +355 4 224 05 11/+355 69 205 10 72, [email protected], www.tirana-car-rentals. com. Local car rental agency with offices in various cities. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Public transport Tirana has a few bus lines, marked on the map in this guide. A ticket costs 30 lek per ride regardless of dis- tance, to be paid to the conductor on board. Buses run every 6-15 minutes between 05:00 and 22:00. The days of dilapidated old state buses conking out in the middle of the road are over - Tirana has a fleet of privately-run buses, dipped liberally in advertising. Car rental Lack of parking space, signs and general discipline makes driving in Tirana adventurous, but despite the apparent chaos traffic doesn’t really move very fast. When parking, beware of Tirana’s new and effective tow-trucks. The only central parking garage can be found below the Vesa Center on Rruga Abdyl Frashëri. Petrol costs about 130 lek per litre, diesel 125 lek per litre. Renting a car costs from around €45 per day for the cheapest model. The agencies have desks at the airport, but these are often only manned on demand, so inform them in advance. Make sure you have the agency helpline number and a good map before setting off. Avis H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Europapark Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 50 11, fax +355 4 227 19 60, [email protected], www.avis.al. Avis operates a fleet of Opel and Chevrolet vehicles. Also at the airport. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. Also at Hotel Sheraton (tel. 26 63 89/068 20 55 806, open 08:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:30 - 14:00) and the airport (tel. 068 20 55 807). A Europcar E-5, Rr. Durrësit 61, tel. +355 4 222 78 88/+355 68 209 39 22, fax +355 4 224 65 11, europcar@abissnet. com, www.europcar.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Hertz E-4, Sheshi Skenderbeg, Tirana International Hotel, tel. +355 4 225 50 28/+355 68 205 87 75, [email protected], www.hertz.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at the airport, open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. From Tirana to First-last bus + frequency, or times Duration Price Departs from: BAJRAM CURRI 06:00-14:00 6 hrs 1000 lek Zogu i Zi BERAT 06:30-18:00, twice hourl y 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori DURRËS 06:00-19:00, twice hourl y 40 min 150 lek Train station ELBASAN 07:00-17:00 twice hourl y 1.5 hrs 300 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium, Rruga Elbasanit FIER 06:00-17:00, twice hourl y 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori GJIROKASTRA 05:00-18:30 4 hrs 800 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori PESHKOPI 06:00-14:00 5 hrs 800 lek Laprak, one traffic light beyond Zogu I Zi POGRADEC 07:00-16:00 hourl y 3 hrs 500 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium KORCA 07:00-16:00 hourl y 4 hrs 600 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium KRUJA 07:00, 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 45 min 150 lek Zogu i Zi PERMET 06:30, 14:00 4 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak SARANDA 04:00, 05:15, 07:00, 08:30, 09:30, 16:00, 22:00 7 hrs 1200 lek Nëshërak SHKODRA 07:00-16:00, hourl y 2 hrs 300 lek Train station / Zogu i ZI KUKES 06:00-16:00 2 hrs 8000 lek Zogu i Zi VLORA 05:30-16:30, twice hourl y 3 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori Approximate times onl y, inform locall y for more details. For Himare and the Riviera coast, change buses at Vlora. Furgon (minibus) schedule From Tirana To Tirana Departure Arrival City Dep. Arr. Days Company From Price (one way) 15:30 06:30 ATHENS 08:00 20:00 1––456– Interlines Bl v Zog I €25 04:00 19:00 ATHENS 09:00 21:00 –23–––7 Interlines Bl v Zog I €25 08:00 20:00 ATHENS 20:00 08:00 1234567 Drita Museum €35 18:00 05:00 PEJA 06:00 17:00 1234567 Sondor Museum €20 18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 1234567 Sondor Museum €20 18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 1234567 Monopol Museum €20 18:00 06:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 1234567 Drita Museum €20 08:00 19:00 THESSALONIKI 19:00 08:00 1234567 Drita Museum €25 18:00 05:00 SKOPJE 18:00 05:00 1–3–5–– Sondor Museum €20 21:00 05:00 TETOVO 21:00 05:00 1234567 Sondor Museum €20 Schedule correct at time of publishing. Check all times before travelling. International bus schedule 44 GETTING AROUND Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Trains Albania’s railway network is basic and slow, and has no services to neighbouring countries. Unless you’re a train fan, taking buses are faster and more comfortable, though the run to Durrës is perfectly bearable. Train station B-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 10 94. Tirana’s train station is a basic metal and concrete shed next to the dusty Durrës bus parking lot. Tickets can be bought just before departure. There’s no left luggage office. Travel agents Tirana’s travel agents can arrange everything from plane tickets to hotel bookings, car rental and tours. Albania Experience J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel./fax +355 4 227 20 55, alexperience@albaniaonline. net, www.albania-experience.al. Guided city tours, day- trips to Apolonia, Berat, Durrës, Kruja and other destinations, and plane tickets. AE can also book top-end Tirana hotels at big discounts. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Albania Holidays Rr. Sami Frasheri, Pall. 20, Apt.8, tel./fax +355 4 223 54 98, tel. +355 4 223 56 88, www. albania-holidays.com. Runs the www.albania-hotel.com hotel booking website. Albtours H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 225 33 43, fax +355 4 225 33 42, albtours@albaniaon- line.net. Near the Sky Tower, and also at Rr. Mine Peza 102. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. ATHS E-3, Rr. Mine Peza 102, tel. +355 4 223 24 24. Al so at Bl v. Zogu 1, Veve Center. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Gulliver OK D-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 34/1, tel. +355 4 222 76 26/+355 67 203 44 04 (airport), info@gulliver- ok.com, www.gulliver-ok.com. Travel agent with offices in Tirana’s city centre and airport; also runs an agency and the local tourism office in Korça. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Magic Tours D-4, Blv. Zogu I, 72, Veve Business Center, tel./fax +355 4 222 89 87, [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Outdoor Albania H-5/6, Rr. Elbasanit 85, Tirana Backpacker Hostel, tel./fax +355 4 222 71 21, Inf [email protected], www.outdooralbania. com. Tail or-made tours wi th acti vi ti es such as trekking, mountai n bi ki ng, raf ti ng, kayaki ng, mountai neeri ng, paragliding and 4WD trips. Daytrips in the mountains near Tirana too. In winter, acti vi ti es are limi ted to snow- shoeing and hiking. See al so their booking si te www. travel-tirana.com. Taxis Taxis are a useful form of transport in Tirana, and after 22:00, they’re the only game in town. Several companies now use metres and can print receipts; our experience so far is that drivers do not have to be reminded to use them. Rates start at 300 lek for the first 2km (sufficient for most city centre trips) and 95 lek/km after that (count on paying 500 lek for a ride to the outskirts). Between 22:00 and 07:00 the flagfall is 350 lek. Few drivers speak English, so it’s a good idea to write down the address, or to call someone who can explain. ATEX (Airport Express Taxi) , tel. +355 4 223 34 19/+355 68 204 95 98, www.atex.al. Taxis to/from the airport for 2,000 lek, or 2,500 lek between 21:00 and 07:00. Online booking (in Albanian) possible. Radio Taxi , tel. +355 4 24 44 44/+355 68 222 56 57. Tirana Taxi , tel. +355 68 212 55 75. Tourist information In 2009, Tirana went from zero to two tourism information centres. TIA Tourist Information Point TIA, tel. +355 4 238 49 80, www.tirana-airport.com. A handy tourist information kiosk in the airport arrivals hall, with Tirana In Your Pocket guides, maps, providing answers to questions about Tirana and Albania. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Tourist Information Office (Zyra e Informacionit Turistik) E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, tel. +355 4 222 33 13, [email protected], www.albaniantourism.com. The city’s tourist information centre is right behind the Na- tional Museum. Drop by to get information about Tirana and copies of Tirana In Your Pocket. aeroplane avion ferry traget airport aeroport car veture, makinë train tren bus autobus station (train, bus) stacion (tren, autobus) Is it far? A është Iarg? left majtas right djathas where am I? ku jam? Travel terms Old habits die hard, old Albanian habits in particular. Take the currency, the lek. In 1964 and 1991, a zero was cut from the currency and new banknotes and coins introduced to make the numbers easier to handle. But still, you’ll get sometimes get quoted amounts in old leks in shops, so you’re told to pay 1000 lek rather than 100. This is not to rip you off – it’s just an old habit that’s just as comfy as those awful slippers you wear at home, and even if you do put down ten times the amount necessary, you’ll get the right change. Even though all the signs and price tags in shops are new lek, not all Albanian minds have made the transition. Old habits - new leks From Tirana To Tirana Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Price 05:55 06:53 DURRES 06:10 07:10 70 lek 07:30 08:32 DURRES 08:45 09:46 70 lek 08:30 09:28 DURRES 09:50 10:49 70 lek 14:10 15:07 DURRES 13:00 14:01 70 lek 14:45 15:42 DURRES 15:50 17:01 70 lek 16:15 17:12 DURRES 17:30 18:30 70 lek 20:00 20:57 DURRES 18:35 19:35 70 lek 05:55 09:38 ELBASAN 06:00 09:46 190 lek 14:10 17:55 ELBASAN 15:55 19:35 190 lek 05:55 12:32 POGRADEC 12:50 19:35 295 lek 13:15 16:42 SHKODER 05:55 09:21 145 lek 14:45 19:52 VLORE 05:40 10:49 250 lek Timetable and prices correct at time of publication; check all details in advance. Train schedule 46 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com LANGUAGE Albanian is an Indo-European language with a 36-letter alphabet; like the country itself it is one of a kind. There are distant links with Romanian, and many words on loan from Turkish, Greek and Slavic. An i ncreasi ng number of Al bani ans speaks a forei gn language: Italian is extremely widespread (thanks to satellite dishes and emigration), English is catching on fast, and many Albanians in the south understand Greek. Pronunciation a as in father c as in pizza ç as in church dh as in that e as in set ë as in term gj as in dodge i as in machine j as in year II as in still nj as in union q as show r as in rope rr is a trilled r x as in judge Niceties & Necessities Yes Po No Jo Good Mirë Please Ju lutem Thank you Faleminderit Sorry! Më vjen keq! Good morning Mirëmëngjes Good day Mirdita Hello ç’kemi Good night Natën e mirë Good luck with your work! Punë e mbarë! Cheers! Gëzuar! All the best! Gjithë të mirat! Excuse me! Më falni! How are you? Si jeni? Practicalities When? Kur? Where? Ku? Who? Kush? Why? Pse? What? Çfarë? I have... Kam... I am... Jam... What’s your name? Si quheni? My name is... Quhem... I’m from... Une jam nga... ...UK ...Anglia ...USA ...Amerika ...Germany ...Gjermania I don’t understand Nuk kuptoj I don’t speak Albanian Nuk flas shqip A ticket, please Një biletë, ju lutem How much does this cost? Sa kushton? Signs Open Hapur Closed Mbyllur Entrance Hyrje Exit Dalje Push Shtyj Pull Terheq Numbers 0 zero 1 një 2 dy 3 tre 4 katër 5 pesë 6 gjashtë 7 shtatë 8 tetë 9 nentë 10 dhjetë 20 njëzet 50 pesëdhjetë 100 njëqind 1000 njëmijë Days Monday E Hënë Tuesday E Martë Wednesday E Mërkurë Thursday E Enjte Friday E Premte Saturday E Shtunë Sunday E Dielë Months January Janar February Shkurt March Mars April Prill May Maj June Qershor July Korrik August Gusht September Shtator October Tetor November Nëntor December Dhjetor Time Now Tani Later Më vonë Today Sot Tomorrow Nesër Yesterday Dje 1930s Italian-buil t ministries on Skanderbeg Square 48 SHOPPING Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 49 SHOPPING January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Pirro Souvenirs I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 55 87. A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs; Albanian flags,keyrings and T-shirts, and must-have mugs depicting Enver Hoxha, King Zog and Mother Teresa among others. Also on Rr.e Durrësit. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Rreli-Erebara E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, tel. +355 4 222 12 82. Tradi tional folk costumes from all over Albania, as well as wood, bronze and sil ver souvenirs, potter y, ceramic wares and antiques. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Speciality shops La Casa del Habano J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton mall, tel. +355 68 416 63 37, www.kalimancaribe.com. A smoker's oasis inside the Sheraton Mall, this is the onl y place in the country to buy, and try, quali ty Cuban cigars. Brands on sale include Habanos, Cohiba and Monte Cristo, and there's a range of deluxe smokers' accessories too. Puff away on your new purchase in style at the small whiskey bar. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Vini & Food J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton mall. Quality Italian and Albanian wines. QOpen 09:30 - 21:30. Supermarkets Conad G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, Galeria mall, tel. +355 4 227 01 74. A supermarket chain that (incredibl y) ships everything from Italy - even the fruit and veg. There's a decent selection meats and cheeses. Also at (I-3) Rr. A.Z. Çajupi. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Euromax Tirana-Durrës highway, km6, QTU centre. Tirana's largest supermarket, inside the QTU mall on the outskirts of town. A handy 24-hour ci ty-centre Euromax Express can be found at Rr. Abdyl Frashëri (I-4) in the QTU City mall. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Kedi J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Plaza mall. A convenient, small supermarket inside the Sheraton mall. The ladies love Tirana. You may be surprised, but the city is actually a great shopping destination. The city centre is small and you can easily walk everywhere, and without exception the staff is friendly and reasonably competent. Especially shoe shopping is good; they're cheap (around 30% less than in other European cities), most are of Italian quality, and there's great variety. For clothes the story is slightly different, as not all international brands are repre- sented yet. Shopping is still best in the established areas such as in the bllok district and along Rruga Myslym Shyri where you'll find many boutiques; you're more likely to find bargains and groovy stuff there than in the malls. Books Tirana has a number of shops selling English literature, but the selection isn't great so bring fodder from abroad if you want to read something specific while you're here. Foreign magazines and newspapers can be found at the Adrion shop or at their stands in the Xheko Imperial and Sheraton hotel (at the Albanian Experience travel agency office). The Rogner hotel lobby bar has foreign newspapers available for reading. Adrion International Books E-4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 222 62 56, books@ adrionltd.com, www.adrionltd.com. The best selection of books on Albania (or on anything else) in English. Lots of magazines as well. Also at the airport, in both the main hall and departures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Corona E-4, Sheshi Skenderbej, Tirana International Hotel, tel. +35 69 217 73 05. The hotel gi ft shop has a good selection of newspapers, magazines and books on Albania, and souvenirs too. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. Friend's Book House G-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 226 67 77, [email protected]. More café than bookstore, the collection here is mainl y Albanian though some English titles can be found too. QOpen 24 hrs. International Book Shop E-6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1, Ste- phen Center. Books, newspapers and magazines, including some on religious themes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. Libraria Albania H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 227 17 49, www.albaniabook.com. A local bookshop with a selection of English-language magazines and Albania-related books. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. DIY Praktiker Durrës highway km4, Pranë Urë Kamëz, tel. +355 4 238 84 50, www.praktiker.al. Albania's first large DIY market also stocks useful things for travellers; there's also an ATM and a Gregory's Coffee outlet. A free shuttle bus runs regularl y from the main square between 07:00 and 21:30. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Fashion Benetton G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, Galeria mall. Italian fash- ion for both sexes. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Blue Fly G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri 80. Fashionable shoe boutique. Byclass I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, Vesa Center, tel. +355 4 227 88 10, www.byclassonline.com. A large boutique with Italian Tod and Hogan shoes plus assorted accessories, on the first floor of the Vesa Center mall. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Comptoir de Paris Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Mall, tel. +355 68 202 26 84. Expensi ve brand-name fashion for men, women and children. Elisse G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 4 227 43 56. Elegant shoes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Estel E-3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 68 20 34 473. I talian fashi on for men and women. Near the corner wi th Rr. Kont Urani. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Cl osed Sun. Felu H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 32, tel. +355 68 401 04 00. Colourful, quality Italian 'junior footwear', as well as kids' clothing. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Firenze D-4, Blv. Zogu I, 72, tel. +355 4 224 04 41. A good array of women's and men's clothes, and real Versace ties. High prices and quali ty. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Glamour I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 4, tel. +355 68 206 01 76. Italian fashion at reasonable prices. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Il Cammino G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri 64. Shoe boutique. Also on Rr. Kavajës 20 and Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 6. Nino Vitali F/G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 4 227 44 70. Q Open 09:00-14:30, 18:00-21:30. Pierre Cardin E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli. The latest PC fashion. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Much to the delight of locals and foreigners alike, Tirana has been enriched with several malls or smaller shopping galleries over the past two years. The launch of the QTU centre along the Durres highway in 2005 was a revolution in itself - the complex is large, has a good supermarket, underground parking and a free shuttle bus. In early 2006 the Galeria mall raised the standard and QTU hit back with a small new mall in the bllok area. Albania’s first proper and large mall will open in 2010. Casa Italia Tirana-Durrës highway, tel. +355 48 86 05 12. A large compl ex wi th various mid-range shop outlets. CityPark Tirana Tirana-Durrës highway, km15, www.citypark-al.com. Opening in 2010, Albania’s largest shopping centre will have some 170 shops, a supermarket, food court, a ‘seven star’ hotel, a skating rink, Cartoonland, and entertainment. Beside the turnoff to the airport. Galeria Mall G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4 225 41 00. Housed in the European Trade Centre build- ing behind the pyramid, the Galeria mall has 50 shops, bars and cafés in a pleasantl y air-conditioned four-floor complex. There’s a supermarket on the ground floor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. QTU (Qendra Tr egtar e Univer s) Tirana- Durrës highway, km 6, tel. (+355) 38 01 00, fax (+355) 380 101, www.qtu-al.com. West of town al ong the Durrës hi ghway, the QTU shopping centre has a bar, restaurants, a supermarket, el ectroni cs store and more. A free shuttl e bus runs between the Nati onal Museum and Uni vers ever y 20-30 min- utes. The small QTU Ci ty mall can be found on Rr. Abdyl Frashëri. Q Open 09:00-21:00, 09:00-22:00 in summer. A Sheraton Plaza J-5, Sheshi Italia. The mall attached to the Sheraton hotel has a café, a food court, a good little supermarket and several upmarket shops. Vesa Center I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 5, tel. +355 4 222 78 816, www.vesacenter.com. Upmarket glass- fronted building with several chic boutiques, a café, jazz club, restaurant, spa and apartments. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 17:00 - 21:00. Shopping centres New expat arrivals and any other stray foreigners that find themselves wandering Tirana are welcome to mingle with Tirana’s small but active group of expats. King House Dinner Night. Every Friday, there’s an informal Tirana expat dinner at King House, from 19:30 till late. King House serves food for those who are hungry, or just drinks for those who aren’t. All are welcome to drop by. Tirana Dinner Club. Every Wednesday, a group of expats chooses a different restaurant to eat at. Send an email to [email protected] to get on the mailing list. Tirana Hash. Every Saturday the family-friendly Tirana Hash (10-70 Albanians and expats) meets at 11:30 for a relaxed to strenuous walk or run somewhere near Tirana, inevitably followed by relaxed to strenuous drinking and late lunch session at the Chicken Shack or elsewhere. See www.tiranahash.com for more information. Everybody welcome, transport for the car-less is arranged on the spot. Tirana International Women’s Group. Join the TWIG ladies for their monthl y meetings, chari ty events and acti vi ti es including yoga, painting, bowling and tea sessions. See http://sites.google.com/site/twigtirana/ home for more information or email to twi gboard@ gmail.com. Expat activities Flowers Flower shop J-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 68 206 05 68. Flowers and ceramics. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Garden Joy H-5/6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 237 41 46. The owner learned flower arranging in Greece and does it well. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Kaktus I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 204 96 54. Imported flowers and luxury bouquets. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Merkom E-3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 225 47 70. Next to Samsung. Also delivers flowers. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30. Natyra H-5/6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 223 06 16. Flowers from Greece arri ve three times a week. Good for colourful, custom-made bouquets. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Souvenirs & Gifts The best souvenir shopping is north of Tirana in Kruja, where shop windows are full of jewelry, antiques and knickknacks. If you don't have time to make the trek there, check these shops in Tirana. There are also some kiosks selling Albania mugs, plastic guns, dolls and bunker ashtrays at the southern end of Rr. Barrikadave. Albapost F-4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku, fax +355 4 223 21 33, [email protected]. Philatelic shop of the Albanian postal service, selling recent commemorati ves. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Aromë Indie G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri 31, tel. +355 4 226 58 23. Oriental gifts and art, and colonial furniture. On the corner of Rruga Islam Alla. Art Forever G/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 99, tel. +355 4 224 63 86. If you're looking for folk costumes, antique chests, wood carvings, or old books, check out this one-man show. Near the corner with Blv. Bajram Curri. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Five Senses I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 30, tel. +355 4 223 53 53. A home interior shop with imported pottery, vases and glassware. In the alley next to the Da Shang Hai restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. Le Futur H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 223 27 68, www.lefutur.al. Dozens of crazy novelty gifts, between 300- 4,000 lek. Everything from desktop rocket launch installations to wallets made from South African licence plates. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Lleshi E-3, Rr. Durrësit, tel. +355 4 226 30 30. Albanian folk costumes, handknit vests, men's fel t hats, dolls in folk dress, rugs with national motifs. Near Rr. Asim Vokshi. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Shops at Tirana's lovel y chaotic market area 50 MAIL & PHONES Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 51 DIRECTORY January - June 2010 tirana.inyourpocket.com Post Central Post office F-4, Rr. Çameria, tel. +355 4 222 62 82, www.postashqiptare.al. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (08:00 - 13:00 for parcels). Express mail The safest though not the cheapest way to send valuable or urgent items. Albanian Courier Tirana-Durrës highway, Salloni Mazda, tel. +355 4 235 79 76, info@albaniancourier. com, www.albaniancourier.al. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. DHL E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli 6, tel. +355 4 223 39 32, fax +355 4 225 72 94, [email protected], www.dhl. com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. FedEx F-6, Blv. Zhan D'Ark, tel. +355 4 225 32 03, fax +355 4 225 36 30, [email protected], www.fedex. com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. TNT E-4, Rr. Mine Peza 2, tel. +355 4 223 49 14, fax +355 4 223 54 89, [email protected], www.tnt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. UPS H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 32/1, Pall. Teuta, tel. +355 4 225 97 42, fax +355 4 225 97 43, aloperations@ unitrans.com.al, www.ups.com. Telephone calls International calls Dial the international access number (00), the country code, the area code and the subscriber’s number. Call 12 for international directory assistance. National calls For calls outside Tirana, dial 0, the city code and the subscriber’s number. Call 14 for domestic directory assistance. Local calls: Tirana numbers have seven digits, all starting with a 2 or a 3. Calling Albania from abroad Dial the country code (355), then the city code (Tirana’s is 4). To call a mobile phone in Albania from abroad, dial 355, then drop the 0 and dial 38. Mobile phones Three rather pricey providers are active in Albania. AMC numbers start with 068, Vodafone numbers with 069 and Eagle Mobile numbers with 067. Eagle has gone from a dodgy start to great success within a year, and is challenging its rival’s prices; prepaid customers yet have to notice lower prices though. You can easily purchase pre-paid SIM cards for around 600 lek at the providers’ shops; you’ll need ID and a local address (which can be that of your hotel). Recharge cards are widely available across the country. National rates for pre-paid calls are between 30-55 lek per minute. AMC (Albanian Mobile Communications) G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower, tel. +355 4 227 50 00, www.amc.al. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Eagle Mobile H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 222 78 12, www.eaglemobile.al. Also at Rr. Myslim Shyri 6 and at the airport, Vodafone H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 5, tel. +355 4 228 32 01/+355 69 222 01 11, www.vodafone.al. Also at the airport. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Berat 32 Durrës 52 Elbasan 54 Fier 34 Gjirokastra 84 Kavaja 554 Korça 82 Kruja 511 Kuçova 33 Kukës 24 Laç 30 Lezha 36 Librazhdi 353 Lushnjë 35 Peqin 512 Përmet 813 Peshkopi 373 Pogradec 832 Saranda 85 Shijak 571 Shkodra 22 Tepelena 814 Tirana 4 Vlora 47 Albanian telephone codes Postal rates for postcards/letters (under 20gr) are: Albania 20 lek Europe 40 lek Elsewhere 60 lek Post rates Public telephones Publ i c phones are easi l y found; tel ephone cards are available at post offices. 50 unit cards cost 560 lek; 100 units 980 lek; 200 units 1800 lek. New cards should be wrapped in clear plastic. People on the street also sell cards; beware that you’ll likel y be paying more. I f you don’t plan to talk away a whole card, you can rent one from the ‘businessmen’ near the phone boxes for about 15-20 lek per unit. Internet cafés Free wifi is increasingly common in city-centre cafés, res- taurants and hotel lobbies such as the Rogner's. It's also available free at the airport. In the internet cafés listed below, expect to pay 100 lek per hour for internet access (and plenty of noise from little boys playing Counterstrike). Global I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi 13, tel. +355 4 225 63 06. Surf for 80 lek per hour. QOpen 24 hrs. Top-Net H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 67 219 03 39. Basement internet café with helpful staff. Q Open 24hrs. Internet providers ABCOM Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Kompleksi Green Park, Kulla 2, Kati II, tel. +355 4 450 01 39, info@ abcom.al, www.abcom.al. Broadband internet, data transmission, VPN, wi fi, hosting, e-mail solutions, digi tal cable TV and telephony services. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Abissnet Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 4 225 60 01, fax +355 4 225 60 02, [email protected], www.abissnet.al. Ada Net Rr. Dervish Hima 1, tel. +355 4 225 16 33, www.adanet.net. Albania Online Rr. Donika Kastrioti 4, tel. +355 4 225 11 22, fax +355 4 225 11 33, www.albaniaonline.net. Albania 355 Australia 61 Austria 43 Belarus 375 Belgium 32 Bulgaria 359 Croatia 385 Czech Rep. 420 Denmark 45 Estonia 372 Finland 358 France 33 Germany 49 Greece 30 Hungary 36 Ireland 353 Israel 972 Italy 39 Japan 81 Kosovo 381 Latvia 371 Lithuania 370 Moldova 373 Montenegro 382 Netherlands 31 Norway 47 Poland 48 Portugal 351 Romania 40 Russia 7 Serbia 381 Slovakia 421 Slovenia 386 Spain 34 Sweden 46 Switzerland 41 Turkey 90 UK 44 Ukraine 380 USA 1 Country codes From forei gn representations to hi gh-finance, from dentists to Ameri can li brari es: the Tirana In Your Pocket directory is your one stop shop for names and numbers. Find more listings on the tirana.inyourpock- et.com websi te. Advertising, PR & Events Iceberg Communications I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, Pall. Edil al-it, Zyra 1, tel./fax +355 4 226 76 81, tel. +355 69 207 67 69, [email protected], www. icebergcommunication.com. Publicity, PR and events. Ogilvy H-4, Rr. Him Kolli, Pall 10 katesh, Kati 1, tel./ fax +355 4 224 75 33, [email protected], www.ogil- vyal.com. Tirana Events Agency Sheshi Zogu i Zi, Pall. e Trebickës, Shk. 1, tel. +355 68 406 69 00, fax +355 4 224 75 77, [email protected], www. tiranaeventsagency.com. Conferences, events and other business services. Banks Alpha Credit Bank Rr. e Kavajes, G-Kam Center, tel. +355 4 227 85 00, fax +355 4 222 14 48, marketing. [email protected], www.alphabank.al. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Banka Popullore - Société Générale Group Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers, Kulla 1, Kati 9, tel. +355 4 228 04 42, fax +355 4 228 04 41, bp.info@ socgen.com, www.bpopullore.com. BKT (Banka Kombetare Tregtare) Bul. Zhan D'Ark, tel. +355 4 225 09 55, fax +355 4 225 09 56, tsan@ bkt.com.al, www.bkt.com.al. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Emporiki Bank Albania Rr. e Kavajës 59, Tirana Tower, tel. +355 4 225 87 55, fax +355 4 224 09 95, headof- [email protected], www.emporiki.com.al. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Intesa Sanpaolo Bank Rr. Ismail Qemali 27, tel. +355 4 227 60 00, fax +355 4 224 87 62, info@intesa- sanpaolobank.al, www.intesasanpaolobank.al. QOpen 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. National Bank of Greece Rr e Durresit, Godina Comfort, tel. +355 4 228 00 00, fax +355 4 223 36 13, [email protected], www.nbg.gr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ProCredit Bank I-3, Rr. Sami Frasheri, tel. +355 4 223 34 96, fax +355 4 227 12 76, [email protected]. al, www.procreditbank.com.al. At the southern end of the street. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen Bank Blv. Bajram Curri, ETC, tel. +355 4 222 45 40, fax +355 4 224 79 12, [email protected], www.raiffeisen.al. QOpen 08:30 - 15:30, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Tirana Bank Blv. Zogu I, 55/1, tel. +355 4 223 34 41, fax +355 4 223 34 17, www.tiranabank.al. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bowling Blur (Qendra Argetuese Blur) Lunder, tel. +355 48 810 132/+355 69 207 90 72, [email protected], www. blur-al.com. An entertainment centre along the road to Elbasan with UV-lit bowling, a restaurant, bumper cars and bouncy castles. Q PLEBK Spare Time G-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Taiwan. Several bowling lanes on the two lower floors of the Tai wan complex. You pay 250 lek per person per game, 350 lek after 18:00. BEYOND COMMUNI CATI ON ICEBERG COMMUNICATION Rr. "Perlat Rexhepi", Pall."Edil-al", Nr. 1 Tirana, Albania Tel.&Fax: +355 4 2267681 Mob: +355 69 20 62050 [email protected] www.icebergcommunication.com 52 DIRECTORY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com Emergency numbers: Police 129, Fire 128 Business services ACMS (Albanian Center for Management Ser- vices) H-5, Rr. Gjon Pali II, 11/1, tel. +355 4 225 56 55/+355 4 225 76 05, fax +355 4 22719 60, info@ cmsalbania.com, www.cmsalbania.com. Training, execu- tive search, consulting, auditing and other business services. Albanian Business Network Rr.Sami Frasheri, tel. +355 68 385 95 50, [email protected], www.al-bn. com. A networking organisation and business club for pro- fessionals, businesses and investors interested in Albania. National Registration Centre (Qendra Kombëtare e Regjistrimit) Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 4 225 00 66, fax +355 4 225 55 32, [email protected], www.qkr.gov.al. The NRC is the one-stop-shop for business registrations in Albania. QOpen 08:30 - 14:00, Fri 08:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Chambers of Commerce American Chamber of Commerce H-4, Blv. Dësh- morët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower 11/3, tel. +355 4 225 97 79, fax +355 4 223 53 50, [email protected], www.amcham.com.al. British Chamber of Commerce & Industry Blv. Petro Nini Luarasi 58, tel. +355 4 234 10 20, fax +355 4 237 98 85, [email protected], www.abcci.com. Tirana Chamber of Commerce & Industry E-3, Rr. Kavajës 6, tel. +355 4 223 02 83, fax +355 4 222 79 97, www.cci.gov.al. Hospitals & Clinics Clinics do not usually take patients outside office hours. For emergencies, go to the American Hospital or to the Civilian Hospital (northeast of the centre on Rr. Dibrës). ABC Clinic D-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 260, tel. +355 4 223 41 05/+355 68 260 04 05, [email protected], www. abcalbania.org. Christian-run, English-speaking clinic. QO- pen 09:00 - 13:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. American Hospital (Spitali Amerikan) Laprake, tel. +355 4 235 75 35, www.spitaliamerikan.com. A new and modern hospital along the Durrës highway, with international staff and a good English-language website. DSF Medical Centre Rr. Irfan Tomini Nr.5-1, tel. +355 4 223 27 99. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Luigi Monti Clinic E-3, Rr. Kavajës 120, tel. +355 4 222 39 06, fax +355 4 223 11 25, www.unixkm.al. Part of the Catholic Diagnostic Center. QOpen 07:30 - 13:30/ 15:00-19:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Marie Stopes Clinic Rr. Tef ta Tashko Koço 10, tel. +355 4 224 10 18, [email protected], www. mariestopesalbania.com. Famil y planning clinic providing safe, comprehensi ve reproducti ve heal thcare and educa- tion in a country where contraception and abortion were illegal until 1991. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Orthodox Clinic Rr. Dibres 159, tel. +355 4 236 09 25/+355 4 238 22 10, fax +355 4 237 48 04, klinika- [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Computers Computer & Copier System (CCS) I-3, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355 4 225 90 04, fax +355 4 223 55 77, [email protected], www.ccs-albania.com. Sells PCs, copy machines, software and hardware. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Infosoft Systems F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Gjergji Cen- tre, tel. +355 4 225 11 80, fax +355 4 223 29 90, www. infosoftgroup.com.al. Hardware, software, service provider. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Dentists In Albanian, 'dental clinic' is 'klinika dentare'. Easy. Now floss. Dervishi F-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, Blloku Vasil Shanto, P. 3, Shk. 2, Ap. 3. Q Open 08:30 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Ledismile Dental Clinic Rr. Irfan Tomini, tel. +355 4 232 07 72/+355 69 406 60 00, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00/ 15:00-19:00. Closed Sun. Tirana Centre G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 4 225 74 46/+355 4 223 15 64. Near Albanian Telecom. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. UFO Clinic F-2, Rr. Kavajës,Pallati 3, Shk 7, tel. +355 4 224 00 28, fax +355 4 224 16 87. Who wouldn't like their dental work done by Martians? Behind the Central Bank build- ing. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Dry cleaners Fast Clean D-4, Rr. Komuna e Parisit, tel. +355 4 223 74 14. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Pastrim Kimik S&M I-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 224 66 50/+355 68 224 30 51. The best dry-cleaning in Tirana. Fast service, good prices. Below the ProCredit Bank. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. Embassies Many of Tirana's embassies and consulates can be found near Rruga Skenderbeg, and in the area just east of the stadium. It's highly advisable to phone in advance to check the opening times or to make an appointment. The opening times listed here refer to the working hours of the visa/visitor departments. Austria E/F-2, Rr. Frederik Shiroka 3, tel. +355 4 227 48 55, fax +355 4 223 3140, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 31 55, fax +355 4 223 22 72, [email protected]. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. China E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 57, tel. +355 4 223 23 85, fax +355 4 223 31 59, [email protected]. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Croatia F-5, Rr. Abdyl Topani, Torre Drin centre, tel. +355 4 222 83 90, fax +355 4 223 05 78, croembassy@ albaniaonline.net. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Republic E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 10, tel. +355 4 223 40 04/+355 4 223 21 17, fax +355 4 223 21 59, [email protected], www.mzv.cz/tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark H/I-4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 1, Kati 4, Ap. 4, tel. +355 4 228 06 00, fax +355 4 228 06 30, [email protected], www. ambtirana.um.dk. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Egypt E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 1, tel. +355 4 223 30 22, fax +355 4 223 22 95, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The power that helps the future grow 54 DIRECTORY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com France E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 14, tel. +355 4 223 42 50, fax +355 4 223 44 42, [email protected], www.ambafrance-al.org. Q Open 09:00-13:00, 14:30- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Germany E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 8, tel. +355 4 227 45 05, fax +355 4 223 34 97, [email protected], www.tirana. diplo.de. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Greece E/F-2, Rr. Frederik Shiroka 3, tel. +355 4 227 46 44, fax +355 4 223 41 40, [email protected], www. greekembassy.al. Consulates in Gjirokastra and Korça. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Holy See (Vatican) D-4, Rr. Durrësit 13, tel. +355 4 223 35 16, fax +355 4 223 20 01, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 16, tel. +355 4 223 22 38, fax +355 4 222 54 11, [email protected], www.mfa. gov.hu/emb/tirana. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Iran H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 20, tel. +355 4 222 76 98, fax +355 4 223 04 09. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy H-5, Rr. Gjon Pali 2, tel. +355 4 227 59 00, fax +355 4 227 49 00, segreteriambasciata.tirana@esteri. it, www.ambtirana.esteri.it. Consulates in Vlora and Shko- dra. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Macedonia F-2, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +3554 4 223 09 09, fax +355 4 223 25 14, [email protected]. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Netherlands H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 10, tel. +355 4 224 08 28, fax +355 4 223 27 23, [email protected], www.mfa. nl/tir. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Poland D-2, Rr. Durrësit 123, tel. +355 4 223 41 90, fax +355 4 223 33 64, [email protected]. QOpen 08.15 - 16.15. Closed Sat, Sun. Romania H-5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji 1, tel. +355 4 225 60 71, fax +355 4 225 60 72, [email protected]. al. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 5, tel. +355 4 225 60 40, fax +355 4 225 60 46, [email protected]. QOpen . Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00-12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Saudi Arabia D-3, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +355 4 224 83 06, fax +355 4 222 99 82, embasaudarab@alba- niaonline.net. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia H-4, Rr. Donika Kastrioti 9/1, tel. +355 4 223 20 91, fax +355 4 223 20 89, [email protected], www. tirana.mfa.gov.yu. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Spain D-2, Rr. Skenderbej 43, tel. +355 4 227 49 60, fax +355 4 222 53 83, [email protected]. QOpen 09:30 - 14:00,16:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden H-6, Rr. Pjeter Budi 76, tel. +355 4 238 06 50, fax +355 4 238 06 60, swedishoffice.tirana@sida. se. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Switzerland H-6, Rr. Elbasanit 81, tel. +355 4 223 48 88, fax +355 4 223 48 89, [email protected]. ch, www.eda.admin.ch/tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Turkey I-6, Rr. Elbasanit 65, tel. +355 4 238 03 50, fax +355 4 234 77 67, [email protected], www.tirana. be.mfa.gov.tr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. United Kingdom E-2, Rr. Skenderbeg 12, tel. +355 4 223 49 73, fax +355 4 224 76 97, enquiries.tirana@ fco.gov.uk, www.ukinalbania.fco.gov.uk. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. United Kingdom Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 49 73, fax +355 4 224 76 97, www.ukinalbania.fco.gov. uk. QOpen 09:00 - 11:30. Closed Sat, Sun. United States I-6, Rr. Elbasanit 103, tel. +355 4 224 72 85, fax +355 4 223 22 22, http://tirana.usembassy. gov. Visi ts by appointment onl y. QOpen 14:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Governmental organisations Albania's governmental organisations. Albanian Development Fund Rr. Sami Frashëri 10, tel. +355 4 223 55 97, fax +355 4 223 48 85, adf@ albaniandf.org, www.albaniandf.org. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30, Fri 08:00 - 14:30. Albinvest Blv. Gjergj Fishta, Pall. Shallvareve, tel. +355 4 225 28 86, fax +355 4 222 23 41, [email protected]. al, www.albinvest.gov.al. Institute of Statistics Blv. Zhan D'Ark 3, tel. +355 4 222 24 11, fax +355 4 222 83 00, [email protected], www.instat.gov.al. Publishes a yearly report called Albania in Figures (Shqipëria në Shifra). QOpen 08:00 - 16:30, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KESH Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel. +355 4 225 97 29, fax +355 4 223 20 46, www.kesh.com.al. National electricity corporation. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Insurance companies Insig Rr.Dibres, Nr. 92, tel. +355 4 225 68 12, fax +355 4 223 41 80, [email protected]. InterAlbanian I-3, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, Zayed Busi- ness Center, tel. +355 4 225 48 35, www.interalbanian. com. Sigal Blv. Zog I, No. 1, tel. +355 4 225 34 07/8, fax +355 4 225 02 20, [email protected], www.sigal.com. al. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sigma Rr.Komuna Parisit,POB 1714, tel. +355 4 225 82 54, fax +355 4 225 82 53, [email protected], www. sigma-al.com. QOpen 08.00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. International schools Ecole Viktor Hygo Rr. Tre Vellezrit Kondi, tel. +355 4 237 17 25/+355 69 20 61 677, [email protected], www.ecole-vhugo.com. Memorial International School Rr. Durrësit, tel. +355 4 223 73 79, [email protected], www.mistedu.com. Tirana International School (TIS) Rr. Tre Vellezrit Kondi, tel. +355 4 236 52 39, [email protected], www. qsiweb.org/alb. Language courses International Language Centre D-5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi 31/1, tel. +355 4 223 61 41, ilc@albania- online.net. Albanian l essons for beginners to advanced students. Lincoln Center H-4, Rr. Qemal Stafa 184, tel./fax +355 4 223 08 80, [email protected], www.lincoln.org.al. Albanian for foreigners as well as English, German, Spanish and computer courses. Inside Enver Hoxha's old vila. Lawyers & Consul tants Boga & Associates Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Green Park, tel. +355 4 225 10 50, fax +355 4 225 10 55, www.bogalaw.com. Deloitte F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Eurocol Center, tel. +355 4 227 79 20, fax +355 4 227 79 90, www.de- loitte.com/al. Kalo & Associates E-3, Rr. Kavajës, Qendra e Busines- sit G-KAM, tel. +355 4 223 35 32, fax +355 4 222 47 27, [email protected], www.kalo-attorneys.com. KPMG H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Tower 1, tel. +355 4 227 45 24, fax +355 4 223 55 34, al-office@ kpmg.com, www.kpmg.al. 56 DIRECTORY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com TBI Law Firm D-4, Blv. Zog I, Veve Business Center, tel./fax +355 4 222 89 62, [email protected], www.tbi-al.com. Tonucci & Partners H-4, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drini, tel. +355 4 225 07 11, fax +355 4 225 07 13, tirana@ tonucci.it, www.tonucci.it. Beauty & Wellness Ardi Hair Fashion H-3, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel. +355 4 227 09 67/+355 68 20 26 118, ardian.borova@yahoo. com. Professional ladies and gents salon with ammonia-free hair colouring. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Da Shanghai Health Centre I-3, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi 16/6, tel. +355 4 222 49 27/+355 4 69 247 62 71. Chinese doctors perform therapeutic foot (45 mins 1500 lek) and body (60 mins 3,000 lek) massages, acupuncture and herbal baths (15 mins 500 lek). QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 15:30-21:30. Closed Sun. Genci C-5, Rr. Elbasanit, Pall 2, Shk 9, Ap 70, tel. +355 4 223 07 22/+355 68 206 16 00. Men's hairdresser. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Krehëri i artë i Edlirës G-6, Rr. Mihal Grameno, tel. +355 4 223 39 50. Women's hairdresser. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Velur Spa G-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, Metropol Center, tel. +355 4 222 25 50/+355 69 203 29 00, info@velurspa. com, www.velurspa.com. A smart 'Spa & Relax' centre on the lower floor of the Metropol building. There's a hamam (Turkish bath) and you can undergo massage, hydrotherapy, waxing, facials, manicure/pedicure, and skin treatments with Thai mud, herbs and even chocolate. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Vesa Spa & Fitness I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 5, Vesa Center, tel. +355 4 227 88 20, [email protected], www.vesacenter.com. A large spa centre on the top floor of the Vesa Center. The 'technogym' offers workouts with street views and there's a sauna, solarium, hair salon, various therapies, massage, and beauty treatments for men and women. Knowledgeable English-speaking staff available. Gym subscriptions from €200/month. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Wang Yan Massage I-3, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 4 241 58 70. Various kinds of massage (therapeutic, foot, keep-fit) from 2,500 lek per hour, as well as acupuncture and herb treatments. In a second-floor apartment; look for the 'Chinese massage' sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Ministries Ministry of Economy, Commerce and Energy Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 2, tel. +355 4 222 27 82, www. mete.gov.al. Ministry of Education and Science Rr. Durrësit 23, tel. +355 4 222 63 07, fax +355 4 223 07 47, www. mash.gov.al. Ministry of Finance Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 4, tel. +355 4 226 76 54, fax +355 4 222 84 94, secretary. [email protected], www.minfin.gov.al. Ministry of Foreign Affairs Blv. Gjergj Fishta 6, tel. +355 4 236 40 90, fax +355 4 236 20 84, ministri@mfa. gov.al, www.mfa.gov.al. Ministry of Interior Affairs Sheshi Skenderbej 3, tel./ fax +355 4 224 71 55, [email protected], www.moi.gov.al. Ministry of Justice Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 93 88, fax +355 4 223 45 60, [email protected], www. justice.gov.al. Municipality of Tirana Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 222 66 29, fax +355 4 222 84 30, www. tirana.gov.al. Prime Minister's Office Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1, tel. +355 4 225 65 61, ext. 440, fax +3554 223 48 18, [email protected], www.keshilliministrave.al. International organisations Albania's non-governmental and international organisa- tions. EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and Development) Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drini, tel. +355 4 223 28 98, fax +355 4 223 05 80, alickola@ebrd. com, www.ebrd.com. European Commision Delegation Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, ABA Business Center, 17th floor, tel. +355 4 222 83 20, fax +355 4 223 07 52, delegation-albania@ ec.europa.eu, www.delalb.ec.europa.eu. GTZ (German Projects Office) Rr. Skënderbeg 21/1, tel. +355 4 223 04 14, fax +355 4 223 34 97, [email protected], www.gtz.de. IMF (International Monetary Fund) Bulevardi Dësh- morët e Kombit, Twin Tower 1, Suite 5-4,, tel. +355 4 228 04 00, fax +355 4 228 04 01, www.imf.org/tirana. OSCE (Organisation for Security and Cooperation in Europe) Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 59 96, fax +355 4 224 86 84, [email protected], www.osce.org/albania. SNV (Dutch Projects Office) Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 225 58 00, fax +355 4 225 58 01, [email protected], www.snvbalkans.org. Soros Foundation (NOSA) Rr. Qemal Stafa, tel. +355 4 223 46 21, fax +355 4 223 58 56, www.soros.al. Transparency International Bul. Gjergj Fishta, tel. +355 4 226 74 57, [email protected], www.tia.al. UNDP (United Nations Development Program) Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 35, tel. +355 4 223 31 22, fax +355 4 223 20 75, www.undp.org.al. ÓçäŸÑîàãŸóîŸÒôââäòòŸèòŸàëöàøò Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ ôíãäñŸâîíòóñôâóèîí ÄãôâàóèíæŸóçäŸñäâäíó«ŸòîîíŸóîŸáäâîìäŸ àíãŸóçäŸíä÷óŸæäíäñàóèîíŸîåŸìàíàæäñòŸ áøŸòôïïëøèíæŸóçäìŸöèóçŸóçäŸáäòóŸïîò¬ òèáëäŸóñàèíèíæŸåîñŸâîíâäïóò«ŸóäâçíèðôäòŸ àíãŸòêèëëòŸîåŸìàíàæäìäíóŸèòŸóçäŸáäòóŸ öàøŸ óîŸ äíòôñäŸ óçäŸ òôââäòòŸ îåŸ óçäŸ îñæàíèùàóèîíò«Ÿ àí㟠óçäñäåîñäŸ óçäŸ òôââäòòŸîåŸóçäŸÀëáàíèàĆòŸäâîíîìø­ ÇèæçäñŸäãôâàóèîíŸèíŸìàíàæäìäíó ÓñàèíèíæŸòäñõèâäò ÂîíòôëóèíæŸòäñõèâäò Àôãèóèí查ŸÀòòäòòìäíóŸòäñõèâäò ÑäòäàñâçŸòäñõèâäò Ä÷äâôóèõäŸòäàñâçŸòäñõèâä ÖäŸïñîõèã䩹 ©ÖäŸöèëëŸáäŸãäëèæçóäãŸóîŸáä óîŸøîôñŸìàíàæäìäí󟥟áôòèíäòòŸíääãò­ ThE ANSWEF ACMS - Albanian Center for Manaueuent Services llc. Address. Fr. 0jon Fali ll lforuer Fr. Leke üukaujiniì 11/1/5, Tirana, Albania Fhone. 00 355 1 2 255 ë55 Đ Fax. 00 355 1 2 271 9ë0 e-uail. [email protected] Đ web. www.cusalbania.cou The recentl y renovated statue of the unknown soldier 58 DIRECTORY Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) Rr. Donika Kastrioti 4, tel. +355 4 222 84 74, fax +355 4 222 84 92, [email protected], www. unhcr.org. UNICEF (United Nations Children's Fund) Rr. Skën- derbej, Godina Volkswagen, Kati 3, tel. +355 4 227 33 35, fax +355 4 224 37 75, www.unicef.org. USAID (United States Aid) Rr. Elbasanit 103, tel. +355 4 224 72 85, fax +355 4 223 22 22, www.usaid. gov. WHO (World Health Organisation) Rr.Themistokli Germenji, Pall. 10, tel./fax +355 4 226 61 62, office@ who-albania.org, www.un.org.al. World Bank Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 34, tel. +355 4 228 06 50, fax +355 4 224 05 90, clampart@worldbank. org, www.world.bank.org.al. Notaries These offices provide notary work and legal assistance. Some also do written translations into and from English, French, German, Italian, Greek and Turkish. Agim Robo H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27/1, tel. +355 4 224 88 40, [email protected]. Dhimitra Qarri G-3, Blv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet 1Maji, Shk. 3, Ap 24, tel. +355 4 225 12 00/+355 69 209 55 71, [email protected]. Fatime Metaj D-3, Rr. Durrësit 118, Shk. 1, Ap. 1, tel. +355 4 223 98 72, [email protected]. Pharmacies Farmacia 7-17 C-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 222 22 41. Next to the Tirana Bank. QOpen 24hrs. Farmatech D-5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 4 223 65 84, [email protected]. Modern pharmacy, English spoken. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Photography A.Rreli C-4, Blv. Zogu I, 30/ Rr.Mine Peza Nr 1, tel. +355 4 222 79 65/ 222 23 29/+355 68 20 29 675, [email protected]. A chain of modern photo labs. Digital developing too. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00-21:30. Ital Kumi H-4, Rr. Brigada VIII, 3/1, tel. +355 4 224 68 98/+355 69 202 03 60, [email protected]. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Real estate Albania Property Group Rr. Islam Alla, tel./fax +355 4 227 17 46, [email protected], www. albaniapropertygroup.com. Houses for sale and rent, land sale and more. Offices in Tirana and Saranda. Alb Property Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 4 224 62 53, [email protected], www.alb-property.com. Land, buildings and apartments for sale and for rent. Balkimo Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel. +355 4 226 63 94, fax +355 4 225 47 60, [email protected], www. balkimo.com. Century 21 Albania Rr. Dibrës, Pallati Aurora Kon- struktion, tel. +355 4 225 05 99, fax +355 4 225 78 29, [email protected], www.century21al- bania.com. Colliers G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower, suite 141, tel. +355 4 240 04 70, fax +355 4 240 04 71, [email protected], www.colliers.com. Fresh Proper ty Albania Rr. Sami Frasheri, tel. +355 69 293 69 16/+355 68 385 95 50, contact@ freshpropertyalbania.com, www.freshpropertyalba- nia.com. Real estate agency and proper ty consul tants based in Tirana and Saranda wi th proper t y for rent and sal e there and in Vl ora. Al so af tersal es ser vi ce, furni ture packs, proper ty management and investment oppor tuni ti es. Green Hours Rr. Abdi Kazani, P. Luarasi 2a, tel./ fax +355 4 223 28 44, [email protected], www. greenhours.net. Specialises in building plots and agri- cul tural land. INF93 Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi 8, tel./fax +355 4 224 95 22, [email protected], www.inf-93.com. Real Estate Imobiliary Rr. Kavajës, Pall. 3, Shk. 7, Ap. 66, tel. +355 4 223 31 18, [email protected]. Translations Fadil Metaj D-3, Rr. Durresit, Pall. 79, Shk. 4, Kati 1, tel. +355 4 223 04 48, [email protected]. Trans- lates English to/from Albanian, Serbian, Croatian, Slovenian, Macedonian, Bulgarian and Russian. Tirana’s lake area is seeing fast growth, and a jumble of new buildings has risen around the southern shores and beside the zoo and botanical gardens. To avoid this ad hoc growth also effecting the remaining empty area beside the lake’s dam, the Rotterdam-based architec- ture bureau MVRDV designed a rather spectacular masterplan to extend the park in this area and to add a high-quality and dense urban area along a new “Copa Tirana’ lakeshore drive. The plan forsees a number of large rectangular buildings to be placed at weird angles in the area below the dam. Nicknamed the Tirana Rocks, they are to be clad in local stone and will hold apart- ments, shops, offices, a hotel and recreational facili- ties. The dam is to become more pedestrian-friendly, with benches along the whole lenght, and remains a green corridor, linked to the third floor lobbies of the new buildings by wooden walkways. South American jacaranda trees, which flower bright purple for a month every spring, are to planted throughout the area, and lit up on sumer nights. Construction of the €600 million project will start in 2010. Tirana Rocks © MVRDV Full directory listings can be found at http://tirana.inyourpocket.com 4 Dëshmorët C-6 28 Nëntori F-4/5, E-5 Abdi Toptani F-4/5 Abdulla Keta D-5 Abdyl Frashëri I-3/4/5 Adem Kruja G-2 Ali Pashe Gucia C-5/6, D-6 Andon Zako Çajupi H-3 Asim Vokshi D-3/4 Asim Zeneli H-5/6 Bardhok Biba D-4 Barrikadave B/C-4, D-4/5 Beqir Luga E-6 Besim Imami F-2/3 Bilal Konxholli C-5/6 Bl v. Bajram Curri H-1 to G-6 Bl v. Dëshmorët e Kombit F-4 to I-5 Bl v. Gjergj Fishta H-1 to G-4 Bl v. Zhan D’Ark G-5 to E-6 Bl v. Zogu I C/D/E-4 Bogdani E-3 Brigada VIII H-3/4 Çamëria F-3/4 Çerçiz Topulli C-4, D-5 Ded Gjo Luli E-4 Dervish Hatixhe D/C-4 Dervish Hima I-5/6 Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit G/H/I/J-4 Dhimitër S. Shuteriqi J-1/2 Dibrës C/D-5, B5/6 Don Bosko B/C-2 Donika Kastrioti G/H-4 Dora D’Istria K/J-4 Durrësit D-2/3, E-3/4 Edit Durham E-2 Elbasanit G-5, H-5/6, I-6 Emin Duraku I-2, H-3 Fadil Rada I-2, H-3 Faik Konica I-6 Fatmir Haxhiu G-5 Frederik Shiroka F-1/2, E-2 Gjin Bue Shpata H/I-3 Gjin Kuqali I/J-3 Gjon Buzuku B/C-5 Gjon Muzaka E-2 Gjon Pali II G/H/I-5 Grigor Heba I-2, J-2/3 Hajdar Hidi E/F-3 Haki Mborja J-1 Halim Xhelo E-2 Haxhi Hysen Dalliu D-3, C-3/4 Haxhi Sina C-6 Him Kolli F-3 Hoxhe Vokrri D-6 Hoxha Tahsim E/D-6 Ibrahim Dervishi I-1 Isa Boletini C/D-5 Islam Alla E/F/G-3 Ismail Qemali H-3/4/5 Jani Vreto E-5/6 Jeronim de Rada F-5 Jordan Misja A/B/C-3 Jul Varibova G-5 Justin Gadari E/F-2 Jusuf Vrioni I-2 K. Shijaku B/C-4 Kajo Karafili E-3/4 Karl Gega B-4 Kavajës F-1/2/3, E-3/4 Komuna e Parisit H-2/3, I-2 Kont Urani E-3 Kristaq Mema D-2/3 Lek Dukagjini I-5, J-4 Lidhja Prizrenit I/J-4 Street register All Tirana streets below are prefexed ‘Rruga’ (Rr.); boulevards are listed as ‘Blv’, squares as ‘Sheshi’. Liman Kaba J-2/3, K-2 Luigj Gurakuqi E-4/5 Mahmut Fortuzi B/C-4 Maliq Muço D-4 Margarita Tutulani J-3/4 Medar Shtylla I/J/K-2 Mehmet Brocaj D-3 Mihal Duri E-3 Mihal Grameno G-6 Mil to Tutulani I/J-3 Mine Peza C-2, D-2/3, E-3 Muhamet Gjollesha D-1/2, E-1, F-1, G-1/2, H-2 Murat Toptani F-4/5 Musa Agolli B-5 Mustafa Lleshi G-6 Mustafa Matohiti G/H-5 Myrtezim Këlliçi E/F-5 Mysl ym Shyri G-2/3, F-3/4 Naim Frashëri E/F-2 Nasi Pavllo H/I-6 Nikolla Lena F-2 Nikolla Tupe I-3/4, H-4 Papa Kristo Negovani C-4 Perlat Rexhepi C-4 Petro Korçari I-1 Petro Nini Luarasi F-6 Pjetër Bogdani H-3/4 Pjetër Budi H-6 Prek Bibë Doda H-2 Presidenti George W. Bush F-5 Prokop Myzeqari D-3 Punëtorët e Rilindjes see Presidenti GWB Qemal Guranjaku H-6 Qemal Stafa E-5, D-5/6 Ramzan Farka B-6 Reshit Çollaku F-4 Reshit Petrela B/C-4 Robert Shvare I-1 Sami Frashëri G-3 to J-4 Saraçëve D-5 Sermedin Said Toptani F-4 Shaqir Ofshafi C-5/6 Sheh Ahmet Pazari I-6 Shenasi Dishnica D/E-5 Sheshi 21 Dhjetori F-1 Sheshi Avni Rustemi E-5 Shesi Fan Noli E-5 Sheshi Italia I-5 Sheshi Nënë Tereza I-5 Sheshi Skënderbeg E/F-4 Sheshi Zogu i Zi C/D-2 Shyqyr Bërxolli E/F-3 Shyqyr Ishmi F-6 Siri Kodra B-4 Skënder Kosturi B/C-4 Skënderbeg D/E/F-2 Stavro Vinjau H/I-6 Sulejman Delvina H-2, I-2/3 Sulejman Pasha D-3/4, E-4 Tafaj C-5/6 Tefta Tashko Koço E-6 Thanas Ziko B-5/6, C-6 Themistokli Gërmenji H-5/6 Thimi Mitko E-6 Unaza C-2/3/4 V. Karapici E-6 V. Luarasi C-4/5, D-5 Vaso Pasha G/H/I/J-4 Vëllezërit Manastiri D-2 Viktor Eftimiu H-1, I-1/2 Xhezmi Delli E-2 Xhorxhi Martini E/F-5 Ymer Kurti I/J-3 Zenel Baboçi D-5 62 INDEX Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com 1001 Netë 27 Albaniantrip 20 Alcora 32 Alpin 18 Ambasador 18 Amor 26 Apollonia 23 Arber 11 Archaeological Museum 35 Areela 18 Art Gallery 35 Artist Lounge 30 Ballkoni Daj tit 26 Bantia 23 Bardhe e Zi 30 Big Bite 25 Billionaire 25 Black Cave 39 Bonaparte 32 Botanical gardens 38 Briker 18 Brilant Antik 11 Broadway 14 Buda Bar 31 Buj tina Shqiptare 20 Bulevard Café 31 California 14 Carlsberg 23 Casa di Pasta 26 Cathedral of St. Paul 36 Catholic Church 36 Central Market 35 Charl’s Bistro 31 Chateau Linza 12 City 14 Clock Tower 36 Converse 31 Dafina 20 Daj ti Ekspres Cable Car 39 Daj ti Park 22 Da Shang Hai 24 Delikatesë 30 Diplomat 12 Diplomat Fashion 12 Doro City 14 Eder 14 El ysée 14 Endri 20 Enoteca Joan 32 Epër 7shme 30 Era 23 Et'hem Bey Mosque 37 Europa 14 Fan Noli Statue 38 Far East 24 Ferari 14 Firenze 14 Flares 31 Flex 31 Folie 34 Fortress of Justinian 37 Freddy's Hostel 21 Friend's Book House 30 Galeria Shijaku 37 Grand 11 Grand Park 38 Green House 12, 26 Gregory's Coffee 30 Guva e Qetë 18 Haxhiu 18 Hotel Airport Tirana 18 House of the Dervish Khorosani 37 Il Cappricio di Zio Edi 27 Iliria 14 Il Pomodoro Food Court 25 Imagine 32 Irish Bar Tirana 34 Juna 30 Jurgen 18 Juvenilja Castelo 28 Kalaja 18 Kalaja e Petreles 27 King House 25 Kolonat 25 Kruja 14, 39 Kuki 31 La Cantinella 27 La Tavernetta 27 Living Room 31 Lollipop 34 London 25 Lugano 14 Lulishte 1 Maji 25 Magic Blue 28 Mai Tai Resort 22 Mamma Rosa 27 Martyrs' Cemetery 35 Meduza 31 Meg Klaus 18 Metropolitan 23 Mezuraj Museum 35 INDEX Mimi 24 Miniri 16 Mojo 30 MonarC 12 MonarC Bar 31 Mondial 12 Mother Teresa statue 38 Mr. Chicken 25 Mrizi i Zanave 23 Napoli 27 National History Museum 36 Nëna Mbretereshë 28 Nirvana 16 Nobel 16 Noel 32 Noi Café 30 Oda 23 Orthodox Cathedral 36 Orthodox Church 36 Otium 26 Palma 16 Panorama 22 Papafingo 32 Parlamenti 18 Pastiçeri International 30 Patisserie Française 25 Pension Andrea 20 Pension Strazimi 21 Petrela Castle 39 Piazza 23 Pike Loti 18 Pirro Mani 27 Pyramid 35 Quo Vadis 30 Radio 32 Raum 34 Regency Casino 34 Rei Jazz Club 32 Republika 20 Rinia Park 38 Rock 'n Roll 32 Rockwood 32 Rogner Europapark 11 Royal 25 Rozafa 28 Sarajet 24 Savana 20 Serenata 24 Serendipity 26 Shang Hai 25 Sharm Club 34 Shëngjin Church Mosaic 36 Sheraton Tirana Hotel 11 Skanderbeg Square 35 Skanderbeg Statue 38 Sky Club 26 Sky Club Café 30 Sky Hotel 14 Sofra 28 Sofra e Ariut 28 Steakhouse 26 Steel wings 32 Stela 16 Stephen Center B&B 21 Stephen Center Café 30 Stylus Club Marriott 32 Swiss Chalet 28 Tanners' Bridge 37 Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe 37 Theranda 16 Tiki 32 Tirana Backpacker Hostel 1 22 Tirana Backpacker Hostel 2 22 Tirana International 12 Tirana Rock 32 Tomb of Kaplan Pasha 37 UAW Guesthouse 21 Unknown Partisan Statue 38 Venue Dance Club 34 Venue Park 22 Verzaci 18 Vesa Residence 21 Victoria 16 Vila 3 14 Vila 12 28 Vila 31 24 Vila Aeroport 18 Vila Bel vedere 16 Vila Ferdinand 26 Vila Logoreci 27 Vila Metropolitan 26 Vila Park 18 Vila Tafaj 18 Vila Verde 20 Villa Amsterdam 26 Vinum 23 Viva 24 Wine Spirit 32 Xheko Imperial 11 Yamato 27 Zero 42 34 Zoo 38 Grannies relaxing in the National Museum park Come with us to discover Europe's last secret Albania Experience Tel +355 4 2 272 055 Fax +355 4 2 271 960 Mobile: 068 40 490 90 Email: [email protected] www.albania-experience.al Address: Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Tirana &Towers, Tirana, Albania ο¸Ë ˼ÃÃÊ ÐÆ̗ÀËžÊ °¸Ä ÀŠǸÉÀʶ ·Î ®¡ ·Î ¦§¡ ·Î ¹½Á£ CONTENTS www.inyourpocket.com 3 Contents Arriving in Tirana How to get here 5 6 8 9 10 11 23 30 31 Glossary Tirana from A to Z History Occupations, liberations, damnations Culture Cinemas & theatre Traditional dress Delicately embroidered works of art Where to stay A good night’s sleep for €5, or €2530 Restaurants Located amidst government buildings and embassies in the heart of Tirana, this new complex is the capital’s only 5-star hotel and the unrivalled choice for international travelers and impeccable business events. Shops, bars and restaurants await you right outside in the Sheraton Plaza Shopping Mall, just moments from your room. 151 rooms, including 95 deluxe rooms, 55 suites and the Presidential Suite 50 Club rooms with exclusive access to the Club Lounge “Metropolitan” Restaurant offering Albanian and international cuisine “Infinity” Bar & Terrace Function rooms for over 500 guests Indoor and outdoor swimming pools Health club with fitness centre and sauna Shopping Mall with a variety of shops & cafés and a cinema “Il Pomodoro” Food Court located in the Shopping Mall Sheshi Italia, Tirana, Albania Tel: +355 42 274707 Fax +355 42 274711 [email protected] www.sheraton.com/tirana From Albanian to Japanese, Tirana has it all Cafés Sip your kafe ekspres here Palm trees conceal the Tirana International Hotel Nightlife Drink and dance the night away What to see Mosque, tower, horse 35 39 40 46 48 50 51 Around town Mountains, caves, castles and towns Getting around Planes, buses, trains and cars Language Speak shqip Shopping Souvenirs, fashion and malls Mail & Phones Keeping in touch Directory From banks to real estate agents Maps & Index Selling persimmon fruit along the airport road City map & Street register Index 60-61 62 tirana.inyourpocket.com January - June 2010 4 FOREWORD For once, Albania made all the right headlines in 2009. Foreign tourism boomed as backpackers and increasing numbers of cultural travellers discovered the country, and business was not as bad as it could have been, with the country registering one of the few positive growth rates in Europe. On the ground in Tirana, it’s been a busy year with plenty of new restaurants and hotels opening up, all of them reviewed in this new edition. Tirana In Your Pocket enjoyed growing popularity in 2009 too, and we’ve fattened the guide by 12 pages this issue. One exciting new story regards the building of the much-discussed Tirana Rocks project, several large blocks seemingly dropped on the lakeside in the city centre, which may well come to define Tirana’s new look (if they don’t run out of money first). See page 58 for the details. Our special feature this issue concerns Albania’s veritable treasure trove of traditional costumes. There are 300 different types of dress in this small country, and these beautiful costumes and items can be viewed at Tirana’s National Museum as well as at the private Spahiu collection; see page 10. Like everything in the Albania, Tirana In Your Pocket is continuously under construction and your comments and tips are welcomed. Add your personal review for any place you like (or hate) to our website, or write in to [email protected]. About this guide - Lidhur me këtë udhëzues The Tirana In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedicated English-language guidebook to Albania‘s capital, and is part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city guides. In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical information that makes visiting the city easier for foreign visitors. As a private and commercial initiative, Tirana In Your Pocket has been written and researched by a team of local and foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the guide are those of the writers, and are not in any way meant to glorify or denigrate the city, merely to point out the merits and shortcomings that we think foreign travellers should know about. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate any information that would lead to improving the next issue. Emails can be sent to [email protected]. Udhëzuesi i qytetit Tirana In Your Pocket (‚Tirana në xhepin tuaj‘) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i dedikohet kryeqytetit të Shqipërisë, dhe është pjesë e një sërë udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhëzuesit in your pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të sinqerta kritike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit. Si një iniciative private komerciale, Tirana In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hulumtuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhëzues vijnë nga ata, dhe në asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo denigrojnë qytetin, por thjeshtë që të tregojnë meritat dhe mangësitë të cilat ne mendojmë se udhëtarët e huaj duhet t‘i dinë. Çdo udhëzues i ka të metat e veta, prandaj ne do të çmonim çdo informatë që do të çonte në përmirësimin e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në [email protected]. ARRIVING By plane Tirana’s gleaming Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa) airport, 17km northwest of Tirana, is a 30-45 minute drive from the city centre. Beside the baggage carousel in arrivals there’s an ATM, a BKT currency exchange office with so-so rates and the airport’s tourism information desk. Buy a local SIM card at the Vodafone or Eagle Mobile shops. Ignore the taxi drivers harassing new arrivals, but take an official yellow airport taxi to the centre for 2000 lek, or 2500 lek at night. Alternatively, hop on the hourly Rinas Express airport bus (250 lek) to Skanderbeg Square, departing every hour between 08:00 and 19:00. 5 By bus Tirana has skipped the ‘build a bus station’ stage of urban evolution, and buses drop off passengers at various points along the ring road; from there you’ll need a taxi or city bus to get to the centre. By car Driving to Albania is an option now that roads and safety have greatly improved - but don’t expect to get there quickly. Coming from Greece, expect long queues and grinding bureaucracy on both sides of the border. The Kakavija and Kapshtica crossings are open 24hrs; Qafë Boti near Konispol and Tre Urat near Permet open till 22:00. From Macedonia, Qafë Thanë is the main crossing, though the Tushemisht crossing near Pogradec is quieter, has beautiful scenery and few delays. Together with the Bllade crossing near Peshkopi they are all open till 22:00; the Gorica crossing near Lake Prespa is open till 19:00. From Kosovo, you can quickly cross over at Qafë Morina and Qafë Prush, from Montenegro at Han i Hotit and Muriqan. By train Albania has no international passenger trains. Weary rail arrivals from Shkodra, Durrës and Pogradec will find themselves deposited at Tirana’s garden shed train station, at the northern end of Blv. Zogu I. It’s a 15-20 minute walk down this boulevard to Skanderbeg Square, a short taxi ride or a hop on any bus heading that way from the bus stop across the street. Europe In Your Pocket By ferry Arriving by ferry from Italy is perhaps the most relaxed way of entering the country. There are ferry lines from several Italian cities to the ports of Durrës, Shengjin and Vlora. Flying to Corfu and using the daily ferry to Saranda or the summertime hydrofoils to Saranda/Himara is often the cheapest way to reach South Albania (see www.ionian-cruises.com). Cover story The sleeve of a precious traditional costume is embroidered with ancient patterns. It’s part of the Spahiu Collection, Tirana’s foremost private collection of traditional Albanian wear. See page 10 for the full story. Others about TIYP “... by far the best coverage of Sofia, Belgrade and Tirana...” The Sun-Herald, Australia, September 7, 2008. “... the most comprehensive source of information about the Albanian capital that you’re likely to come across...” “Finding information about the region can still be difficult, but things have got a whole lot better with the launch of Shkodra In Your Pocket.” Balkanology.com, 2008 “...a full overview of sights, hotels, drinking and eating venues in and around Tirana.” Doing Business In Tirana, Tirana municipality, 2008 “We visited Tirana as an independent group. In Your Pocket has been an excellent help in providing us the information which we need. There are not any other companies that supply honest hotel, restaurant and nightlife info.” Greg Axon, United Kingdom, 4-2-2009 “You are great! Best city guide ever! Keep up the good work!” Igor Simac, 5-4-2009 “Loved your Tirana publication, it was very informative. I know officials read your publication and are sensitive to its message... maybe this will send them one: streets need to be cleaned up and made pedestrian friendly!” Carol Zachary, USA, 5-5-2009 “I’m eagerly waiting for the new Tirana and Skopje In Your Pocket guides!” Jonas Eklund, Sweden, 22-5-2009 Tourist information Tirana’s new Tourist Information Centre is on Rruga Ded Gjo Luli, right behind the National History Museum. Drop by to get information about the city and copies of Tirana In Your Pocket. See p.44 for more information. Tirana In Your Pocket © Albania Experience Sh.P.K Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Tirana Hotel & Towers 1430 Tirana, Albania Tel. +355 4 227 20 55 Fax +355 4 223 20 15 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1587-2378 Printing Evropa92 Kochani, Macedonia Published 10,000 copies, twice a year Editorial Editorial management Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco Fact-checking Rozana Malo, Aldo Merkoci, Silvia Çaushi Layout & Design Tomáš Haman Photos Rentapocket Cover photo Embroidered patterns on a traditional shirt © JvM The TIYP team would like to thank Glenda Pashko, Stavri Çifligu, Ikuko Fujimoto, Marta Karwat, Carol Zachary and our good friends at Avis for their support. Sales & Distribution Manager Alida Karakushi ([email protected], tel. +355 69 306 42 17) Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Jeroen van Marle, Sco Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Tirana In Your Pocket 2006-2010. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76). Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. It has been another great year for In Your Pocket. We now publish a record 57 guides and mini-guides across 22 European countries. We print more than four million In Your Pockets annually. In 2009 we launched new guides in Korca, Maribor, Bled, Portoroz, Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Brasov, Lviv and Odesa. In 2010 you can expect to see Prizren, Venice, Vienna and Glasgow - amongst others – Pocketed. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up an IYP. Send us an email to [email protected]. We also want to find out how we can make our guides better, so please take five minutes to complete our online survey at inyourpocket.com/survey. Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com tirana.inyourpocket.com January - June 2010 though your home bank may. no traffic enforcement and no traffic lights. 90km/hr on dual Smoking Smoking is officially prohibited in public places since 2007. Albania was the last country in Europe to have ATMs (bankomats) connected to the international grid.6 GLOSSARY Basic data Albania’s population is 3. it’s probably best to stick to bottled water. yellow vest and first aid kit in the car. the clinic offers excellent dental services with the latest technology. Germany. People who still believe in travellers’ cheques can cash them at most banks at a fee and a long wait.perladent. Indians and a handful of others. covers 42 square kilometres and lies at 110m above sea level. and inconsiderate to other road users. stopping in the middle of the road to chat with a pedestrian relative.al. Check all border requirements at www. it’s a pleasant little culture shock.778 (July 2008 estimate). so contact-lens wearers should carry eye drops with them or consider wearing glasses. Of the others. confirm your entry requirements at the nearest Albanian embassy or consulate. like Bulgarians. going down by 10% on the euro and dollar in 2009 after years of stability. If payment in foreign currency is possible. hundreds of thousands in Macedonia and Montenegro. no driver’s license requirements. only Party officials were allowed to own and drive around in cars and there were only about 600 cars in Albania. COSMETIC DENTISTRY. making PERLADENT one of the most prestigious dental polyclinics in Albania. Albania is a bit larger than Wales or Maryland. Banknotes come in denominations of 200. Visas & Passports Citizens of the EU.748 square kilometres.com . and always drive with the lights on. Bring a torch as even in cities it can be pitch dark at night away from the main streets. PERLADENT Clinic 1: Opposite Hotel Diplomat. and 3% is Catholic. The maximum speed is 40km/hr in urban areas and villages. Despite the obvious advantages. they overtake in corners at high speeds in their Mercedes as if they were still riding donkeys. Canada. don’t wander around unlit areas at night. ignorant about the merits of seatbelts. many of them deluxe Mercedes and Volvos. always using one or two hands for talking on the phone and smoking. Tirana officially has 750. payment is mostly required in lek. and an estimated two million in the United States. hiss. If you insist on bringing along cash foreign currency. 1000. When the restriction was lifted. Getting health insurance that covers an airlift to another country in case of serious problems is a good idea. garbage or dog shit. Before 1991.619. When asking for prices in daily life. Crime & Safety The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source of concern and pride for the locals . carriageways and 110km/hr on highways.info YOUR DENTISTRY BRAND Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.000 students of which nearly half attend the University of Tirana. The longest rivers are the Drini. 2000 and 5000 lek. Your passport needs to be valid for six months after departing Albania. Easily distracted. most other European countries. In 2009 efforts were stepped up. Apart from Albanians living in Albania proper.gov. Driving & Roads The roads may be improving rapidly. 70% of the population is estimated to be nonreligious or non-practising. though two mountains of 1612m and 1828m also rise within the municipality. disrespectful of speed limits. there’s another kind of big hole or bump. 20. see the list of clinics in the directory. there are more than two million ethnic Albanians in Kosovo. Ohrid and Prespa. Still. though the chain-smoking policemen have done little to enforce the law. £1 = 153 lek. 500. Switzerland. this is never used to rip off foreigners.inyourpocket. Albanians cluck. Money The Albanian currency is the lek (plural leke). near the Vasil Shanto bridge. Body language and sounds Albanians. beware the curious habit Albanians have of telling you the price in ‘old leks’ with an additional zero (so 100 lek becomes 1000 lek). it usually means you’re getting a bad rate (sometimes 100 lek for €1) so don’t fall for it. 50 and 100 lek. Tel: +355 4 2400 130 Mobile: +355 67 20 555 77. especially in places where food is served. Semani and Vjosa. Be very careful where you walk . city-centre traffic usually only crawls along at 20-30km/hr with little risk of damage. 10. there were no traffic regulations. Geography At 28. while there are coins of 5. you can change your euros or dollars at banks and (better) at exchange offices in town. particularly in rural areas. Italy and Canada. Drivers should have a fire extinguisher. 80km/hr outside these areas. New Zealand. ORTHODONTICS. The largest lakes are Shkodra. which says a lot about the way visitors are treated in this country. Italy and Greece. The city has some 30. The money men waving wads of banknotes by the statue on Skanderbeg Square offer competitive rates and are generally honest. Turks. though refusing a client an ashtray is still seen as the graver sin. At the time. US$1 = 95 lek (December 2009). Korabi near Peshkopi. Although hotels and some other businesses quote prices in euros or dollars. shake (or perhaps: wobble) their heads to mean ‘yes’ and nod (or rather jerk the head backwards while emitting a bold cluck) to mean ‘no’. Much of this has changed. The exchange rate is: €1 = 135 lek.000 inhabitants (though the real number may be much higher). but nowadays getting cash using your debit or credit card is no problem. Founded by dentists ROLAND ZHUKA and ELIONA PRIFTI as Albania's best dental polyclinic. The highest mountain is Mt. In case of problems. With a staff of qualified doctors in Health Although the locals say the water is safe to drink. IMPLANTATION. That said. Rather than being mugged in Albania. bits of sharp metal sticking out of the concrete. which is readily available and of excellent quality. it’s a good idea to apply the universal rules: stay alert at all times. In mountain areas having snow chains is a good idea in winter. Albanian ATMs do not charge for transactions. Before you set off. hide valuables or leave them at home. Australia. at 2751m. but driving still requires nerves of steel and a good map. eager to honk. 6% is Orthodox. Every time you see it done.if there’s not a missing manhole lid. ORTHOPEDICS. US. To attract attention. Albanians remain the worst drivers in Europe. and Japan can enter Albania without a visa. Other travellers need to get a visa from an Albanian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling to Albania. 21% is Muslim. Albanians brought thousands of cars into the country from Germany.a tradition dating back to Illyrian times.mfa. EU citizens may enter using an ID card though we suggest still taking your passport anyway as airlines and officials are all too quickly confused. or in more desperate cases honk madly. Although Albania is often touted as a majority Muslim country in the foreign press. you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. There is no longer an entry or departure tax. Albanian cities can be very dusty. Up-to-date tetanus and hepatitis-B inoculations are recommended if you want to play it safe and are staying some length of time in Albania. Spend (most of) your lek before leaving the country as they are worth nothing abroad and there’s no exchange office in the airport’s departure area. +355 67 20 777 55 Clinic 2: At the entrance to Shijak City Tel: +355 571 232 59 www. Greece. An estimated 100. Also at the USAID center. Book in advance for evening and weekend screenings. Nine days later.inyourpocket. Puppet Theatre (Teatri i Kukullave) E/F-4. is elected mayor of Tirana and initiates a series of projects that change the face of the city. Closed Sat. www. th e Albanian leader. The German cultural centre has a reading room with textbooks and literature inside the National Library.QOpen 10:00 . 2001 In October. info@aftirana. Party head Enver Hoxha dies on April 11. The EU announces there will be no visafree travel for Albanians due to the slow implementation of biometric passports.al. tries to absorb the country. tel. NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on March 25. Occasional puppet shows for children in a grand old building. It criticises the Soviet Union. 19th Century In the 1830s. inside the Sheraton mall. Find the academy to the northeast of the centre. 18:00.iictirana. and is heard as far away as Skopje. George W.imperialcinemas. built in 1940 to honor Mussolini on his visit to Albania. the Ottomans crush Albanian autonomy. Q Tickets 200-500 lek. 1999 In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in Kosovo. but does not succeed in getting a majority.8 HISTORY By the seventh century BC. 1997 Collapsing pyramid schemes spark months of rioting and lawlessness throughout Albania in January.al. Sheshi Austria. but Kosovo is given to Serbia. Sun. occupying Albania until 1943. The Communist-led National Liberation Front takes power. National Theatre (Teatri Kombëtar) F-4. +355 4 225 75 28. Bush. history books. Albania’s erstwhile ally. Culture) H-6. the Metropolitan Theatre group (Teatri i Metropolit) and the Tirana Circus. causing Albania to break with Belgrade in 1948. with which it breaks relations in 1961. Barrikadave 122. pall. 12:30. info@ afmm. the shamed government promises results within a year. +355 4 222 89 33. and read the English-language papers for upcoming events. In 1920 Albania regains independence. Millennium 2 Cinema F-5. and videos (classics and recent blockbusters) or browse teaching materials. tel. 14th Century The Ottomans invade what is now Albania in 1385. when the Germans take over until their retreat in November 1944.June 2010 . tel. Elbasanit.ida-millennium. Goethe Institut H-5/6. In June. 1991 In February. USIS (United States Information Service) H/I-6. tel. tel. QOpen 08:30 . the Illyrians (the apparent ancestors of the Albanian nation) settle in what is now Albania. who invade again in 1939. December – The political stalemate between the Democratic and Socialist Parties continues and starts to harm the country’s progress in reforms and EU admission negotiations. +355 4 225 36 54/+355 69 204 42 37.org. The explosions destroy hundreds of houses. Rr. 14:30-16:45. +355 4 222 24 46/+355 4 225 91 04. Rent or view books.com Address: Rruga Murat Toptani Kompleksi Millennium Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. July – Prime Minister Berisha announces that gay marriages will be legalised in Albania. The Academy of Film & Multimedia. British Council I-4. Q Tickets 300-600 lek.esteri.com. 4th Century The Roman Empire is divided in 395 AD. 1912. Rr. The election results are delayed after allegations of voting irregularities and three deaths.com January . Sermedin Said Toptani. In 229-168 BC the Romans defeat the Illyrians and establish the protectorate of Illyricum. 1990 After the totalitarian regimes collapse everywhere else in Eastern Europe. 15th Century Skanderbeg. In summer. Closed Sat. Ded Gjo Luli. Sun. the Spekter childrens' folklore group. In 1978 the leadership condemns even China as revisionist and is left with no friends. +355 4 226 63 96. 197. Imitating Beijing. In 1925 Ahmet Zogu becomes president of the new Republic of Albania. audio tapes. Cultural centres Alliance Française D-4/5.18:00. Imperial Cinema J-5. OSCE monitors report that the elections only partially complied with international standards. when most of Eastern Europe undergoes de-Stalinization. On December 12 the Democratic Party is founded. +355 4 237 95 79. The defence minister resigns. Albanians proclaim independence in Vlora on November 28. Bush gets a hero’s welcome on his visit to Albania. After Russia defeats the Ottoman Empire. 1985. Sheraton Mall. Big Hollywood productions in two screening rooms.afmm. www. June – Berisha’s Democratic Party of Albania wins the tight-fought national elections. weeks of protests culminate in the toppling of Enver Hoxha’s statue in Skenderbeg Square. Borrow French books or languagelearning materials. 2007 In June. to the delight of the muchdiscriminated LGBT community and to the outrage of religious leaders. US president George W. 2009 April – Albania joins NATO. Sali Berisha’s Democratic Party wins the national elections from Fatos Nano’s Socialists. tel. In June the faults in the economy become clear when thousands of Albanians seeking asylum in Italy commandeer ships. Albania’s first non-Communist party in the postwar era. Albania maintains a hardline stance. Sun. Sheshi Italia. 9 Cinemas Academy of Film & Multimedia Marubi Rr. Albania cultivates relations with China. www. Screenings at 10:00. Reservations at: 04 22 53 654 www. the Prizren League is founded in 1878 to fight for autonomy and against the partitioning of Albanian territory. Sun. +355 4 222 20 17. +355 4 227 48 41.it. President Berisha. 20th Century Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. tel.com. tel. 15:00-19:00. Promotes Italian culture and language with cultural events and language courses. result in a landslide victory for the Socialists. during WWI. Rr. near the terminus of the Kinostudio bus line. QOpen 08:00 . has a cinema with free screenings of foreign movies every Thursday at 19:00 during university term. Waves of refugees flee the country in March. The Treaty of London recognises Albania in 1913. www. Rr.visit the websites of the venues listed here. Pallati i Pionierit. 15:00. Yugoslavia. the first step towards closer cooperation with the EU. Rr. Millenium 1 will reopen in a new building in the city centre. named after Shkodra's famous Marubi photographer family. requiring a coalition with the Socialist Movement for Integration party. periodicals and more at this centre beside the US Embassy. A political stalemate ensues when the opposition Socialist Party boycotts parliament after a ballot recount is refused. students at Enver Hoxha University launch a strike. QOpen 09:00 . a former art lecturer and painter supported by the Socialist Party. One fine day. Their rule lasts more than 500 years. Reform comes slowly.edu. He cooperates with the Italians. www. After 1956.edu. and by May 500. keep an eye on posters around town. Millennium shows recent American films in their original language with Albanian subtitles. shatters windows of cars on the highway.com. 2005 In July. Edi Rama. tel.inyourpocket. Closed Sat. blamed for allowing the pyramid schemes to flourish. tel. 2006 Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association Agreement with the EU. CULTURE & EVENTS Event information is notoriously difficult to get . tel. Closed Sat./fax +355 4 236 51 88. On March 31 the first multi-party elections in 68 years result in a victory for the Communists. Albania purges ‘reactionary’ influences. Pjetër Budi 74. Browse American literature. See the Englishlanguage website for what's on. The elections are at first declared to have been fair but soon many irregularities emerge. Perlat Rexhepi. tel. All are welcome. parliamentary elections. Rr. one standard and one 'VIP'. www. Other European countries urge the hard-headed parties to reach a compromise. In 1914. 2008 March 15 – An accident in a factory used for defusing old munition causes series of explosions. This is Tirana's oldest theatre. resigns. A cultural centre that hosts regular performances by the Tirana City Band.org. 20:30 and 23:00. Rr. Italy invades Albania.000 Kosovars have flooded into the country.000 Albanians had fled the country in the previous 12 months. +355 4 224 72 85. In its own version of the Cultural Revolution in 1967. Aleksandër Moisiu 76. but in 1928 Zogu proclaims a kingdom and crowns himself King Zog I. Murat Toptani./fax +355 4 222 56 97. where he allegedly is robbed of his watch during a meet and greet with the crowds in Fushe Kruja. killing 26 and wounding nearly 300 people.com tirana. Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Institute of Theatres q. Metropolitan Center (Cultural Center of Tirana) E-4. +355 4 224 08 56.britishcouncil. In 1968 Albania withdraws from the Warsaw Pact. though everything is in Albanian. and the territory of today’s Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire.com. wages a war o f independence against the Ottomans starting in 1443 and enjoys remarkable success in keeping them at bay until his death in 1468. Rr. wiping out the village of Gërdec (14km from Tirana). demanding reforms.al. it outlaws religion and closes all 2169 of the country’s churches and mosques.14:00. Inside the former Pioneer Palace. Uprisings break out over taxation policy in the 1840s. Q Ticket office open 09:00-13:00. and range from Shakespeare to contemporary Albanian and foreign playwrights. the authorities dismantle the statue of Stalin in Tirana.metropolitane@gmail. The war turns Albania into a NATO base of operations. Performances take place between October and May.16:00. there's an additional summer cinema in the Art Academy.14:00. Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia announces cautious democratisation in March. held amidst nationwide unrest.ida-millennium. Novelist Ismail Kadare wins the first international version of Britain’s Man Booker Prize. The People’s Assembly rescinds the ban on religion and on travel abroad in May.aleancafranceze. +355 4 225 32 19.. If you go for budget accommodation. +355 68 304 26 64/+355 68 212 10 08 or atelielinda@ hotmail.com. www. overlooking the park. The Brilant Antik has large rooms and a traditionally furnished Albanian/ Italian restaurant. www. Prices are often quoted in euros. Q 6 rooms (singles €60.. Rr. but the distinct regional variety remained. radio. so check the latest online.. include the Ethnographic Museums of Shkodra. We don’t have too many strange requests. the cultural and also the real value of these items was forgotten.tirana@ starwoodhotels. with several good new small hotels and hostels. Dëshmorët e Kombit.. info@grandhoteltirana. Tirana In Your Pocket introduces you to the city’s most important receptionists.com. 6 doubles €150.com.com. In this issue. The room prices we list include breakfast unless mentioned otherwise. As the use of traditional clothing waned in the 20th century. you might not want to venture out again. apart from Tirana's National Museum and Spahiu Collection.June 2010 . region of origin. com. double rooms from €90-140. Rr.com Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. though you can have an equally good night's sleep in both a top range €2530 suite and a simple €5 guesthouse bed. sightseeing and activity tips. Once you’ve walked into the Grand. Rr.xheko-imperial. wool and imported silk. PLKW Brilant Antik F-5. And also our beautiful Mediterranean garden with pool of course. reservations. they even sold the family house and moved into a rented apartment to be able to purchase more clothes. Xheko Imperial I-4. The hotel also lays on frills like an indoor swimming pool. where a few dozen kind Tiranians offer free use of their couch for you to crash on for a few nights.com. PHARF LGKDCW Albania has huge costume collections.hotelbrilant. up to Dajti Mountain. Places to view costumes. Most are found around the bllok area. A recent law prohibiting the export of items older than 50 years from Albania has ironically increased the illegal and unprofessional export of antiques and traditional clothing.com January . the National Museum alone has 30. Visits to their home and storage space along the road to Elbasan can be booked via tel. Take a taxi or bus to the first roundabout after the Martyr’s Cemetery and you’ll be met there. unique atmosphere and the central location. and many costumes and related objects were lost due to carelessness and decay. Things have changed dramatically. 30 doubles €230. foreigners could only stay at two dreadful hotels. the Metropolitan restaurant and a shopping mall. tel. click to couchsurfing. This centrally placed hotel is one of the city’s best. is very helpful to us as there is a lot of complex and well-arranged information for tourists and business people. An excellent option hidden in the streets east of the Tirana International hotel. Room prices vary by season. With this series of interviews. suites €150). The Rogner promises Western standards and delivers . be aware that English is not always spoken (try Italian. Facilities are top notch. and decorated with colours. +355 4 223 50 35. Berat and Gjirokastra and the Tradita G&T guesthouse in Shkodra. One of Albania’s top hotels. heavy woollen embroidered xhubleta skirts. the photos on this page are from some of their top pieces.hotelarber. or to Sofra e Ariut for Albanian dishes. which include waistcoats. fax +355 4 225 11 67. with little in the way of explanations. and is mercifully quiet compared to many other hotels. they are happy to show their collection and sell some items to interested visitors. not just for the rooms but also for its reputation as a meeting point for both locals and visitors.inyourpocket. 19 doubles €110. The professional service. fax +355 4 224 68 52. The comfy rooms with ‘sweet sleeper’ beds will suit the needs of any suit. I like to send guests to Villa Logoreci or Mama Rosa for Italian food. German or Greek) and ask about their back-up generator if you like heating in winter or a/c in summer. though once a guest arrived with all of her eight cats. www. fax +355 4 223 50 50. +355 4 Rogner Europapark H-5. 1 suite €150). During religious. www. A taller new annex is under construction behind the building. Q 29 rooms (7 singles €110. conference facilities. Front Office Coordinator at the Rogner Hotel Europapark in Tirana. Blv. 79 96. tel. each linked to a specific area or even village. PHALKCW Albania's rich and varied cultural heritage is perhaps best demonstrated by the incredible range of traditional clothing. and both private and state collections are increasingly accessible. Q 151 rooms (singles € 240.. www.10 TRADITIONAL DRESS Linda Spahiu Collection Linda and her son Luris are perhaps Tirana’s most fervent collectors and restorers of traditional Albanian costumes. presidential suite €2530). but generally have to be paid in Albanian lek.. expected to open in 2010. incorporating gold and silver thread and small river pearls. I send guests to the National Museum. Hotel categories are based on the price of the cheapest double room. safe and fax outlet.. but for the privileged there are the two Club floors with private check-in and lounge. and two excellent restaurants. Prices vary dramatically.sheraton. indoor and outdoor swimming pools.com.com. The comfy rooms are complete with TV and telephone. [email protected] room is decked out with satellite TV. A welcoming family-run hotel in a quiet. Although they do not have a permanent exhibition space yet. though unfortunately the museum displays are often dull. Apart from the state museums.com/tirana. tel. the city’s hotel receptionists are an important source of information for travellers and effectively ambassadors for their country. reservation@hotelarber.. 7 suites €350). A huge hotel placed at the southern edge of the city centre. fax +355 4 227 38 13. 55 suites €380. Q 137 rooms (100 singles €200. The lush garden has a tennis court and a swimming pool. and positioned along the old trade routes between west and east. rogner. The open jacuzzi bathrooms are any girl’s dream. fax +355 4 227 47 11.hotel-europapark. and to Petrela Castle.com. and now a wide variety of accommodation is available. leading to identity mix-ups with some Albanian traditional clothing being exhibited abroad as being from other countries in the region.. Ismail Qemali 11. +355 4 227 47 07. Shaqiri was working in a smaller hotel until he joined the Rogner’s front desk team in 2003. Cream of the crop Top-notch rooms. There are less frivolous double rooms too. English is spoken. 95 doubles €255.com. doubles €160).com. Meet the receptionist Together with Tirana In Your Pocket. info@tirana. tel.000 artefacts. Q 30 rooms (singles €120. Luris speaks English and French.com. tel. Special guests’ requests. natural scenes and patterns. For many centuries. PHAILGBKW tirana. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Q 25 rooms (5 singles €70-90. not on the erratic local star system. The artisans were so famed that Albania became a centre of production for the wider region. Until 1991.grandhoteltirana. There’s no admission fee. Jeronim de Rada 79. embroidering was a craft that was only done by men. Clothes were made by specialised craftsmen and women with cotton. www. and between the main square and the train station. local craftsmen had access to all manner of quality materials. efficient rooms. but it's thanks to them that people have been Grand H-3. PHARULGKDCW Sheraton Tirana Hotel J-5. WHERE TO STAY Symbol key P Air conditioning H Conference facilities R Dataport F Fitness centre K Restaurant C Swimming pool A Credit cards accepted U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi 11 Upmarket Reasonably priced luxury. but only a small amount is exhibited. Rr. ethnicity. The most glam hotel in town resides along a quiet street in the bllok area. with a health club./fax +355 4 224 Arber E-4. costumes are attracting more and more local and international interest. made aware of the importance of preserving old traditional wear. Curiously. com. Good receptionists will be able to give you reliable restaurant. we speak to Gid Shaqiri. central location. Bardhok Biba 59. social and other special occasions. 15 suites €250-350). +355 4 227 38 11. Thankfully. marital status. and the fairy-tale suites with silk-draped four-poster beds are really rather extravagant. and within Albania there are about 300 different traditional costumes. with doubles priced from €150. Special sights I recommend. and more. Special restaurants I recommend. doubles €90. tel. The Arber has small. and its small size adds to its charm. For the full hospitality experience. Sheshi Italia. The excellent Apollonia restaurant is on site. the family's wealth and standing. This makes our hotel special.inyourpocket. +355 4 225 95 75/+355 68 202 97 77. and delicate tablecloths. embroidered symbols. but donations to help upkeep the collection are welcome. age. Styles and fashions changed over the years as new materials and trends emerged. clothing was a kind of passport. jacuzzi and sauna.. Tirana In Your Pocket. themes like the Albanian eagle. the Albanians' clothing allowed strangers to learn all kinds of things about them at a single glance. Mr. PHALKW 225 11 66/+355 69 297 74 71. tel. contact@xheko-imperial. there are only ten serious collectors of traditional wear in Albania. It’s a kilometre from the centre.com.hotelmondial. al.chateaulinzahotel. Built in the 1970s with help of the Chinese. Downstairs is a pleasant library and TV area. the Diplomat has three floors of excellent. www.al. [email protected]. tel. PHALKCW Mondial F-1. Q 26 rooms (singles €85-110. Fax +355 4 224 79 96 info@grandhoteltirana. the resort-style Linza hotel is a foreigner favourite for the sweeping city views from its hillside location. fax +355 4 223 41 88. Sheshi Skenderbej 8. Despite double glazing. +355 4 Diplomat Fashion Rr. On the New York. +355 4 223 50 OUR PASSION: HOSPITALITY OUR GOAL: YOUR PLEASURE Green House G-5.com. Jul Varibova 6. Blv. overlooking the Lana river. doubles €110. [email protected]. The MonarC is a classic-looking yellow building on a busy crossing in the centre./fax +355 4 Tirana International E-4.com. Q 21 rooms (singles €90-110. Rr. Rr. +355 69 203 00 03/+355 69 203 00 09. tel.com. info@greenhouse. hotelmondial@albamail. The higher floors offer great views over town and the mesmerising traffic on the square. with propaganda slogans on the roof and escape tunnels for the elite. for years Tirana’s main landmark was the only highrise in the country. tel. Rooms and apartments are modern and spacious. Ismail Qemali 11 Tel. greenhouse.com. cupboards and even the ceilings.com.com www. a few conference rooms and a small fitness and sauna centre.com. fax +355 4 227 45 00. street noise is an issue in some rooms. A small and charming business hotel above the eponymous restaurant on a quiet street near all the action.al. tel. some with shower and some also with a bath. rooms have decorations on the walls. Go online for their special weekend rates. tel.diplomatfashion. 6 suites €130). 45 apartments €150-190). fax +3554 232 07 49. the rooms meet international standards and the hotel is especially popular for conferences. With only 12 rooms. ample attention has been made to details.org. With a light Scandinavian feel and and enthusiastic staff. www. PHAFLKCW hhhh 223 31 51/+355 4 225 84 68. +355 4 224 79 96.inyourpocket. Bajram Curri.com Rr. Zhan D’Ark. reservation@diplomatfashion. Muhamet Gjollesha 5. Milan and Paris-themed floors. Along the road out of town towards Mount Dajti. +355 4 227 45 11. ada@chateaulinzahotel. tel. PHARFLGKDW Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. tel. Q 12 rooms (singles €80.com . www. Q 14 rooms (5 singles €100. 9 doubles €140). Now thoroughly modernised. Q 10 rooms (singles €100. Head to the top floor for the bar with a waterfall and 360 degree city views. 50m from Sheshi Mustafa Qemal Ataturk. Q 154 rooms (singles €78-149.al. suites €198). suites €130).12 WHERE TO STAY Chateau Linza Qesarakë. www.hoteltirana. fax +355 4 223 04 57.al. PHARLGDW Diplomat F-1. Just west of the centre along Blv. suites €130-150). doubles €91-174. www. A different city on every floor. An elegant and modern hotel with plush pleasant rooms that favour shades of brown to more frivolous colours. doubles €110.com. parquet-floored rooms and a terracotta terrace with bar on the roof. Q 28 rooms (singles €90. hotel@hoteltirana. and it’s well-equipped for meetings and conferences too. www. Komuna e Dajtit. Muhamet Gjollesha. Irfan Tomini. and there’s no parking on-site. PKW 223 23 72. PHALKW 90/+355 4 226 72 19.com.hoteldiplomathy. and the interiors are characterised by sleek dark design and the suites come with particularly classy Jacuzzis. +355 4 223 41 85. Rr. With well-designed boutique rooms. +355 4 222 26 32/+355 68 207 22 62. it’s a comfortable base. great suites and wifi throughout. www.grandhoteltirana. doubles €130160). Linza. doubles €110-150. PALKW MonarC F-5. doubles €100-120.al. com.com. triples €105).hoteldorocity.al. tel. and small but pleasant rooms contain generally matching furnishings and shiny bathrooms. triples €99). Rr. firenzehotel@albmail. play or get away. but unlike pre-1990 Albania you can also actually leave. Rr. the Iliria’s glamorous lobby area gives access to the smart clean rooms beyond. +355 4 235 64 reservations@hotelcitytirana. A small hotel with just five rooms of varying styles. with rooms in corresponding styles. tel. florid bathroom and a balcony overlooking the quiet street. PARLK tirana. modern and well-furnished rooms.com. and the rooms are all soundproofed. www. and especially the suites Egypped up quite impressively. 2 suites €70-80). internet and air conditioning. and abstract art on the walls. doubles €70. 13 doubles €50-60. PARLKW Doro City D-1. Q 20 rooms (singles €50-65. tel. luganohotel@yahoo. www. the large Broadway hotel has a Vegas thing going on. Gjon Pali II. ederhotel. Security is top-notch as the prime minister lives next door and his goons patrol the streets. TIYP was given a pre-opening tour and although the view is not panoramic. Rr.com. 4 suites €120)./fax +355 4 237 17 00. www. +355 4 Iliria I-6.iliriahotel. www. Mihal Duri 2/1. There’s wifi. california@albaniaonline. doubles €50. tel.com. Q 53 rooms (8 singles €60-80. fax +355 4 225 31 92. Kruja D-3. Rr. A quality mid-range hotel. Opposite the Catholic church. A decent business hotel north of the main square. The two top floor rooms are large but have slanting ceilings and only skylights for windows. Just a short crawl from Rinia Park in the centre of town but hidden in a courtyard away from traffic noise. 5 family rooms €70). It’s a few minutes drive west of the city centre. with standard rooms overlooking the calm street out front. PALBKW Eder F-2. behind the pyramid. tel. Next to the Selman Stermasi stadium and within easy walking distance of the bllok area. doubles €70). Don Bosko. Free guarded parking too. a short walk southwest of the city centre.com Tirana In Your Pocket .com. Elbasanit. Check out the fifth floor. Clean. www. 45 doubles €70-110. info@hotel-europa. It serves a nice Italian breakfast and staff are polite. Seven smart rooms in a small 1930s villa set away from the street. but guests can also use a PC with internet at the reception. fax +355 4 224 70 70. Rr. Convenient for various embassies. Q 20 rooms (singles €58-68.com. Emin Duraku 8. where you can check out any time you like. PARLBK iliriahotel. Rooms are modern and quiet. reservations@ hoteldorocity. www. It’s located along Rruga Elbasanit. tel. All rooms have a quality. apartment €75). Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha. Rr. tel. Opened just as this guide went to print. but alternative vistas are offered by the elegant photos of cities around the world that decorate the rooms and halls. Q 5 rooms (3 singles €40. Elysée H-5/6. it’s perfect for business trips. A small and warm little hotel in the very centre of town. A glass lift whisks you up to halls decked out with pharaonic art. hotelkruja. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5/1. doubles €75-85. PAK Sky Hotel G/H-4. +355 4 222 38 76.14 WHERE TO STAY Vila 3 G-5. Q 33 rooms (2 singles €80. a short walk from the main square and just around the corner from a clutch of embassies. Ask for the larger top-floor rooms with balconies when you book. the university and the Grand Park. PALKW Europa F-3/4. Q 7 rooms (singles €50./fax +355 4 223 91 70. 2 doubles €50).com. tel. decorated in black and dark purple with touches of gold. Q 7 rooms (5 doubles €100. PRL +355 4 222 28 80. Downstairs and on the terrace surrounding the building there’s a good restaurant and pizzeria. fax +355 4 224 06 88.hotelbroadway-al. Mine Peza.hotel-europa. Mid-range Good value doubles from between €50-90. Broadway H-3. Rr. vila_3@yahoo. info@ New hotel on the bllok tel. Q 25 rooms (singles €50.com. the owner’s favourite. The views are uninspiring as it’s jammed in between highrise.inyourpocket. 4 triples €118. tel. fax +355 4 224 39 67. PKW tel.com. the rooms are lookers themselves. with kitsch on all walls and a massage shower. +355 4 225 46 19. brown.hotelcitytirana. tel. some even with fireplaces. info@ederhotel. info@ hotelelysee-al.com. with king-sized beds and iron balconies. doubles €78.hotelelysee-al. +355 4 223 81 06. Rr. PRLBK Lugano E-3. tel. all fitted out with satellite TV.com. Q 18 rooms (singles €35. com. fax +355 4 227 20 77. Rr. com. PHARLBKW Firenze D-4. the Europa has small. Q 15 rooms (singles €32-60. fax +355 4 224 86 92. Along the busy ring road near the Durrës highway. Rr. skyhotel_tirana@yahoo. doubles €75)./fax +355 4 224 77 99.com. 02/+355 69 257 51 72. Ismail Qemali 8/1. +355 4 222 20 23/+355 68 203 15 23. Q 18 rooms (3 singles €35. There’s a restaurant and pleasant café terrace too. Zogu I 72. tel. balconied rooms and good facilities for business travellers. This unprepossessing but comfortable four-story hotel best serves those who want to get away from the city centre. There’s also a restaurant and pleasant pavement café outside. broadway@icc-al. Rr. suites €100). e Kavajës. PRLKW City H-5. well-equipped for travellers on a budget. There’s no arguing with the location of this place./fax +355 4 227 47 41.al. it’s well placed if you need to pray. sparkling en suite bathrooms and wifi. Q 20 rooms (10 singles €60. though there’s no lift to get you between the four floors. Blv. Firenze has charming staff. Myslym Shyri. Breakfast is served in the streetside restaurant. There’s a decent restaurant with a lush terrace too. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173.org. 2 suites €130). Breakfast is served in the top-floor Sky Club. Doro has quality rooms fitted with plenty of wood. www. N°3. +355 4 225 31 91. Mihal Duri 34. PLBKDC Ferari B-2. +355 4 224 90 99. fax +355 4 223 81 08. this is Tirana’s latest stylish business hotel with rooms unfortunately only on the two lowest floors of the Sky Tower building.com. +355 4 241 59 95. and some boasting large terraces.com. 6 doubles €80. PARLGW 223 22 06. quiet and efficient rooms and friendly staff in a small business hotel down an alley off the street. 24 doubles €98-110. Welcome to the Hotel California. PARLBK California E-3. reservations@hotelkruja. with friendly service and a top location between the US and Italian embassies.com. Q 8 rooms (singles €40. www. +355 4 226 65 82/+355 69 206 57 08. Q 26 rooms (doubles €5060). A surprisingly good business hotel on the boulevard just north of the main square. doubles €50). tel. Fitted out with flatscreen TVs. Recently overhauled. Rr. tel. 3 suites €130-150). +355 68 24 71 233. Dajti. The 45 fully furnished apartments are perfect for your stay in Tirana besides clean air they offer plenty of privacy and full service. KM 12.16 WHERE TO STAY +355 4 223 30 96. doubles €50). 3 sui tes €65-100).com Rruga Nacionale Durres-Rrogozhine.com.chateaulinzahotel. fax +355 4 227 36 89. suites €120). hotelnobeltirana. as well as tacky artificial flowers. The reception can be found upstairs beyond the restaurant. offering beautiful views over Tirana while still in the freshness of the mountain breeze.therandahotel.com. hotel_miniri@yahoo. fax Stela C-5. Stela seems a good choice. Albania [email protected] . +355 4 223 52 +355 4 227 37 66. A small. doubles €80. There’s a PC parked in the hall for guests to use too. tel. +355 579 22 115/6/7.Nobel ticks all the boxes. hotel. Rr. reservations@therandahotel. and has pleasant if somewhat chintzy rooms. Zogu I. www. 3 doubles €60). +355 69 20 30 003/9 www. PAK Theranda H-3.com.com For your week end break Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.hotelbutrinti. Q 12 rooms (singles €55. Komuna e Dajtit. With its white tile floors and large bathrooms. The peach-coloured rooms are decent but nothing special. just off the main square. A charming small hotel of high standards. tel. www. PALK Nobel E-4. Murat Toptani 25. modern hotel in a central location in the bllok. tel. and experien ced staff. Qesarekë-Linzë. triples €100). Opposite the Catholic Church. Dibrës. PHAKW 70. tel. hosamnasr@malirobitresort. www. and the rooms face a noisy street. Q 17 rooms (singles €60. PHRLW 94. Andon Zako Çajupi 6-7. and its pizzeria. The sel f-proclaimed bou tique hotel has two modern buildings (of which one pavilion-like space is used for meals).com. cheerfully coloured and affordable rooms. brigh t rooms./fax +355 4 223 55 67. Tiranë. Perfectly located in the centre along a recently pedestrianised street.com.hotel-palma. Rr. Q 8 rooms (singles €30. miniri. com. www. Sami Frashëri 2.com. wireless internet and a decent Italian restaurant on the ground floor. the Nobel has modern furnishings. The modern Victoria. Nirvana E-3. However.malirobitresort. Dibrës 3. hotelnirvana@hotmail. www. One street west of the bllok area.com.com Saranda . phone and couch. Q 14 rooms (singles €45-80.hotel-nirvana. is run by a family who spent several years in Italy. com. tel. hotelbutrinti@hotmail. Do you think they would notice if you booked a room under the name Kurt Cobain? This large villa set back from the busy road has rooms in gaudy colours with fitting cosy furniture . +355 4 225 64 44/+355 69 Victoria C-5. tel. fax +355 4 223 52 71.go all the way and get the one with the jacuzzi. the rooms have thin rugs and small towels.com. vilabelvedere@albcomport. with decent rooms and a restaurant.com. is not matched by its interiors. PARLK 202 07 57. Tucked behind the Tirana International Hotel.net. The hotel has 21 rooms and suites beside the swimming pool and gardens. PALW Vila Belvedere F-5.com. and a central location . Q 10 rooms (singles €50. reservations@hotelnobeltirana. Tel.Albania. with a small TV. Rr. doubles €65. +355 4 223 09 30. Rr. Rr. PAKW Miniri E-4. +355 825 55 92/3/4. 2 suites €80). The excellent location of this Croatian-owned hotel. Kavajës 96/2. tel./fax +355 4 226 51 31. Belvedere doesn’t offer much of a view. All rooms are equipped with TV and minibars. w w w. Rr. info@hotel-palma. Q 30 rooms (singles €50. tel. doubles €60). www.inyourpocket./fax +355 4 236 15 C hateau Linza is set at the foot of Mount city views Palma H-3. Dibrës 445. Tel. Q 9 rooms (6 singles €40. Friendly staff. Rr. Q 6 rooms (singles €40. one of the few to apply environmentally friendly techniques like solar panels. The Croatian restaurant on the premises is the redeeming factor. +355 4 225 19 35. but the rooms are affordable and comfy. doubles €50-80.com. doubles €60-100. Blv. doubles €70). friendly hotel just metres from the airport arrivals hall. 2 doubles €33). A basic. Rr. P Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. A decent budget hotel near the city centre. nicely decorated in Western suite n style with a luxurious and modern atmosphere. 4 suites €80). embassies. satellite TV. There’s a top class gym and sauna in the adjacent building that guests can use for a €15 per day. In winter. 26 doubles €90. PALW Vila 3 Hotel & Restaurant Jurgen Rinas. so call for a free pickup. tel. relaxation and comfort can all be found at Vila 3. so we just grabbed some room keys to explore the place ourselves. PHARLKW Kalaja F-5./fax +355 56 46 01 18.vilaparkhotel. quality and safe environment vic vice. +355 4 223 54 91/+355 68 270 79 01. Mobile: +355 69 2065 708 : : Email: vila 3@yahoo com : vila_3@yahoo. the Areela is housed in a building with spotlessly clean rooms and bathrooms. excellent and fast service. The Vila 3 hotel has five rooms and two suites. The fire. No English is spoken. It’s good that Gianni is no longer among us. Q 12 rooms (singles €30. +355 68 Areela C-4. Verzaci is a 5-minute walk along the main road north from the airport. when we visited. telephone serv . hotelbriker@hotmail. So are coffee and tea.com. air conditioning. Amusingly. Until it opens. Tel/fax: +355 04 266 582. There’s only Albanian on TV but that’s compensated by the erotic art on the walls.com. +355 4 222 10 84/+355 69 406 62 85. fax +355 4 225 56 13. www. and bathrooms are ready for take-off with their space-age shower cabins. the Ambasador is a simple. +355 68 200 63 63. doubles €30). The restaurant rustles up Mediterranean food. A short stroll from the main square and a few steps up from the street. Mine Peza 86. you’’ll have to make do with the adjacent Dallas-meets-Dracula ranch with a decent restaurant. +355 4 225 65 97. Q 50 rooms (22 singles €60. doubles €40. Q 20 rooms (singles/doubles €25). +355 4 223 92 14. tel. Barrikadave 3/24. Some English is spoken at the reception. this hotel is near the terminal yet quite a slog around the perimeter fence. Kalaja amounts to a good budget choice. clean and comfortable rooms. PJK 43. tel. Lekë Dukagjini 3. Q 11 rooms (singles €30. hotelairporttirana@live. The rooms are decent enough for the price and have TVs. as he’d faint at the sight of this garish pink building with a big green V on the facade. this family-run hotel offers small. Rr.com Alpin C-5.com. Taxis to the centre are provided free. doubles €40). quiet place off the main road. Mahmut Fortuzi. minibar. Small. the hotel is ensconced inside the ancient walls of Justinian’s Fortress. Mihal Grameno. The bar offers exotic ys offe ffe cocktails served according to your prefe ccording c rding cording pref preferences. Rr. Q 16 rooms (doubles €50. tel. Spacious rooms with attached bathrooms overlook terracotta roofs. PL We look forward to greeting you in Vila 3.com. red/white furniture and large blue-glass windows. tel. HA Excellent service. Address: Rr. the modern Briker has rooms with wooden floors. Kodrat e liqenit. The historical location. Rr. tel. Rr. Q 10 rooms (singles €30. tel. Rr. PLKC Hotel Airport Tirana Rinas. www. Tiranë Albania : ranë anë. Rooms are quiet and clean. clean and quiet rooms with fridge. No luxury or soundproofing. tel. The coolest airport hotel you’ve seen in your life is right here in Tirana. Set ce e e. In this hostellike setup. Look for the blue-glass building with the German flag on top. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.com. Not far from the city centre. +355 4 222 75 81/+355 4 223 42 80. Q 9 rooms (singles. fax +355 4 225 92 36. This family-run hotel is tucked away off the main street and set behind potted trees and flowers. It’s got a light and airy feeling and views of old tile roofs. Qemal Stafa 391. www. and pizzas from our wood burning oven are served in relaxing d ved and contemporary surroundings with a traditional touch.inyourpocket. and the naughty soft focus photos in the halls are a nice touch. The relative lack of amenities is compensated by the management`s eagerness to please. Q 7 rooms (singles €25. Q 25 rooms (8 singles €50. PARFBKDW Vila Tafaj D-3. triples €60). Murat Toptani 9. tel. Rooms service from our restaurant is resta estau available. and if the hotel has a back-up generator in case the power goes pow./fax +355 4 236 05 47. Simple. doubles €40). P Haxhiu E-5. info@vilaparkhotel. the rooms are plain and basic. A very pleasant and well-signposted place on a residential road near the train station. +355 4 225 00 00. PH hhh Ambasador D-5. A garden restaurant with pool at the rear is also available for those simply waiting for flights.18 WHERE TO STAY Airport Hotels 90. 15 doubles €60-90. en suite bathrooms and TVs in a dead-central location. Siri Kodra. triples €45). Double rooms with small bathrooms (shower only) and balconies along a busy road. Tirana’s most tranquil hotel is set 100 metres inside the Grand Park. hotelareela@yahoo. +355 4 226 50 24/+355 68 235 46 55. tel. hidden from the street in a courtyard and far from any traffic noise. klidbalkan@albaniaonline. Grand Park.com . net. www. Q 12 rooms (6 doubles €80. Rr. it’s parked along the road from the airport to the north. affordable and central hotel./fax +355 4 223 51 55. Murat Toptani. cc c The Vila 3 restaurant is well known for the delicious traditional Albanian and ur rant tradition ona Italian dishes. tel. 6 suites €100). Q 12 rooms (singles €25. All come with private bath.com. it’s important to ask if the heating in cheaper hotels runs on electricity. English-speaking staff members are present after 10:00.150m. An elegant 1930s building in the city centre with a green garden at the back to relax in.com. Rr.com. indeed? Double rooms from €25-50. Rr. The breakfast buffet features fresh fruit and pastries. the hotel dates from King Zog's era (1929-1934) and is near to offices. Q 11 rooms (6 singles and 5 doubles €30). in a safe location in central Tirana. Inside. vilatafaj@ yahoo. Q 12 rooms (doubles €35). and we Ti d guarantee to provide for every need you may have – your satisfaction is our ha ave o only goal! Meg Klaus D-3. 2 apartments €150). Rr. where the modernistic rooms of Vila Park with their balconies overlook people strolling amongst the trees. Q 7 rooms (singles/doubles €40). We accept Visa and Mastercard. tel. modem-compatible telephones. Car access is restricted during daytime. turisalba. fax +355 4 223 59 56. consula ula lates and governmental institutions.com/verzaci. +355 4 222 95 Vila Aeroport Rinas. Best of all. An excellent. Parlamenti F-5. doubles €35). tel. Rr. Q 7 rooms (5 singles €25. with tile floors. fax +355 4 225 68 64. basic bathroom. areela. Verzaci Rinas. Some English is spoken. PW Pike Loti G-6. but at least there are smiles all round.and soundproof rooms have bright colours. tel. r condit services erv and a wireless internet connection. environm m of Vila 3 will be sure to make your stay in Tirana a pleasant one. PHARFLBKDCW Guva e Qetë F-5.hotelairporttirana. +355 4 830 01 229 13 89. simple. Rr. L Vila Park K-4. TV and minibar. Near the market and only a ten-minute walk from the centre. Rooms have option odern optional ona matrimonial beds. The best (and best-named) of several options by the airport. Asim Vokshi 141. +355 4 222 65 79. Selvia.tafaj. tel. 2 suites €90-100). you can either share a room or be selfish and take one all for yourself. Modelled after a big silver plane and expected to open sometime in 2010. The room price is the same regardless of the number of occupants. a small disco and some large rooms on the top floor. Isa Boletini 36. cheap rooms and a café downstairs. a TV and a fan. Q 7 rooms (doubles €30). www. Rooms are spacious and modern. PK Briker D-4/5. Jeronim de Rada 75. and laundry and minibar is included in the price. the concierge was too drunk to even walk to the front desk. +355 68 207 70 98. on a quiet street and next door to the Brilant hotel. tel. Budget Why pay more. doubles €40.com. Ali Demi is just east of the centre.org. Q 16 rooms (doubles €20-30. off Blv. Freddy's is just a short walk north of the main square down a quiet street. but a welcoming option for budget travellers. sevim@icc-al. There’s laundry.com. The Strazimis like to lock the door by midnight. Rruga Jeronim de Rada 103. Naim Frashëri 6. The ‘Christian environment’ provided in the cosy guestrooms of the Stephen Center is available to missionaries and other travellers and consists of simple but well-furnished rooms with twin beds. Rr. Bajram Curri. turn down the alley next to the Brilant hotel. alfredsalku@yahoo. on the Uzina bus line.who works at the Vllaznia restaurant on Rruga Kavajës . Papa Kristo Negovani 42.com January . It’s a great way to meet locals and learn more about how they live. Q 5 rooms (singles. tel. www. Bardhok Biba 73/1.albaniantrip. Rr. tel. and have wifi and a fully equipped kitchen with washing machine and fridge. 30. On the top floor of the ‘Useful to Albanian Women’ NGO office building. tel. contact@ albaniantrip. in several apartments spread over a brand new building. 3. Rr. Endri consists of a large first floor apartment with rooms for rent.stephencenter. Xhina Ballo. Rr. Expect lowstandard rooms with en-suite facilities that are bearable if you need to catch an early train or a bus heading north.uaw-al. Q 8 rooms (singles €12. fax +355 4 222 50 14. Q 2 rooms (1 single €30. doubles €10). Ali Demi. tel. Albaniantrip D-4. PLBK fax +355 4 225 39 24. two basic rooms and a kitchenette are available for travellers. P 23. 1 double €60). 4 226 60 77/+355 68 203 52 61. anticipating the flood of smelly backpackers expected to scrounge through the country in coming years. who tirana. bujtinashqiptare1@ yahoo. Rr. and ended up in Albania.freddyshostel. You’ll be surprised at how people of meager means lavish care and attention on their apartment interiors. doubles €20). +355 4 223 07 77. Rr. pall. +355 4 222 04 33/+355 68 219 69 03. pensionandrea@ gmail. www. doubles €20). a/c and private bathrooms come with a lovely landlady. P Stephen Center B&B E-5/6. +355 4 225 69 47/+355 69 209 49 15. one Algerian and an Uzbek have in common? These eight men all were found to be innocent after years in the Guantanamo Bay camp. +355 4 225 69 47 +355 69 209 49 15 Tirana In Your Pocket Pension Andrea F-5. Q 7 rooms (singles €8. Endri H-4. PGKW Hostels The number of hostels in Albania rocketed from just one to about seven in 2009. private bathroom and adequate heating. tel. Abu Beker . 21 Pension Strazimi Rr. Zog I. apt. with modern two. Near the train station. Basic and cheap rooms with small en suite bathrooms set above a smokey café. and equipped with a full kitchen. +355 68 40 58 529/+355 69 22 63 333. Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1. Cheap The pits . Vesa Center. Q 3 rooms (singles €5.com. republikahotel@yahoo. this. Limited English is spoken. doubles €16. P Vila Verde B-4.com tirana. Sulejman Pasha. Rr.com. 27. Dafina C-4. 4 222 30 01. The rooms are basic but comfortable. +355 Freddy's Hostel E-4.inyourpocket. +355 68 207 70 69. It's more of a guesthouse than a true hostel. tel. N°7. bring hands and feet. tel. On a side street halfway the centre and the train station. but get a room at the back for a quiet night’s sleep. so it’s no good for party animals. triples €25).20 WHERE TO STAY Savana I-6. +355 Guesthouses & Apartments Staying at a guesthouse means you may be sharing the house and some of the the facilities with the locals. com. tel. With no country that participated in the Afghanistan war willing to take these men in at the time.com. triples €30).is one of the better-known new arrivees. 141. All rooms have cable TV and a/c. Jeronim de Rada 103. his story of imprisonment by various governments having been reported in newspapers worldwide. he’s here to stay and hopes to open his own pizzeria. €5 per additional person). Tirana pensionandrea@gmail. Note that the Kalaja hotel (see Budget hotels) has a few rooms that are available as dorms. +355 4 227 88 16. shk.vesacenter. Q 4 rooms (singles €20. Good value for money if you’re only interested in the nearby bars and restaurants or an early morning bus to southern Albania. some using clean shared facilities. facilities vary from room to room but all have private bathroom and TV. Abdyl Frashëri. You have your own bathroom. In a quiet location near the Parliament building. in four locations across the city centre. Q 6 rooms (singles €30.less than €25 for a sagging double. Comfortable two-bedroom apartments sleeping up to four or five people. Pension Andrea’s four basic rooms with TV..and three-bedded rooms (no bunk beds). one Egyptian. and the US refusing to send them back to their home countries. the Dafina has a handful of simple and quiet rooms. either inside the room or just outside the hall. www. run by a friendly couple who live in the apartment next door. stephencenter@stephencenter. Karl Gega. Eminently suitable for flashpackers. Blv.com. www. One for the ladies. tel.com./ Republika C-5. PW tel. Q 7 rooms (singles €10. 66. Vesa Residence I-4. Rr. Handy for both the centre and the city’s transport options. Good budget accommodation in rooms spread across three buildings just north of the city centre.June 2010 .. tel. PW Bujtina Shqiptare D-3. The home of Xhetan and Melihat Strazimi has three basic but clean rooms with shared bathrooms. +355 4 224 41 68/+355 69 227 25 22. Rr.inyourpocket. Q 4 apartments (single use €20. Bardhok Biba 75. doubles €25). it’s the third door on the right. tel.com. doubles €40). Q PFLKDW UAW Guesthouse E-2. and cable TV. +355 4 224 82 32/+355 69 230 81 11. WHERE TO STAY Guantanamo refugees What do five Uighur muslims (from China’s Xinjiang region). +355 4 222 24 00.com. the Republika has decent rooms. To find the unmarked pension. Pall. Dervish Hima 38. Although he has not seen his wife and children for a decade. Breakfast is available at the café on the ground floor of the villa. Rr. Q Double rooms €25. just down the quiet street running parallel to the tracks.org. On Tirana’s busy boulevard. artel@icc-al. www. Modern selfcatering studios and apartments sleeping 3-9 people. We’ll be the first to review it.com. doubles €30). tel.it. some with en suite bathrooms. com. +355 4 237 21 02/+355 69 333 83 41. Ap. Rr. Sh. Albania was the only country in the world that agreed to give them asylum. 3. PRL speaks some English.com Tel. They can be rented per room (with private or shared bathrooms) or as a whole. tili_985@hotmail. Vaso Pasha. wifi and airport pickup service too. leek. We've listed the average main course prices in the reviews.com. Guests can use the garden kitchen and terrace. Brick arches surround the diners. serenading guests with Albanian ballads. with outdoor seating in the lush hotel garden. try the stuffed eggplant and peppers. Rr. at the end of Rruga Ismail Qemali. doubles €50. Tirana's Mai Tai Resort has it all: hotel rooms.com. a large flat hearty pie stuffed with onion. THARILEK 22/+355 68 208 49 00. Find TBH2 in the alley behind Sofra restaurant. opposite the VW shop. tiranabackpacker@ hotmail. Bush 1 Tel. A complex in Mount Dajti national park offering wooden chalets amidst landscaped grounds and a well-to-do restaurant. Eat Ottoman-style in Tirana's only true traditional family-run restaurant. Sheets and towels are changed daily too . Fri 10:00 .net. Apollonia H-5. (300-1500 lek).June 2010 . Closed Sun.tiranahostel. this popular and foreigner-friendly spot makes for a good casual lunch or dinner. though keep in mind that you won't get much sleep on weekend nights . tel.the downside is the traffic noise. Era H-3. +355 4 223 08 Panorama Tirana-Dajti road. (600-1200 lek). km 8. The fresh salad bar is excellent. Q 11 rooms (7 doubles € 40. head for the open-air rooftop restaurant. Presidenti George W. If you're bringing hungry friends. while some of the country’s best cooks and waiters ensure a quality meal. free linen and towels . or you can drive up. with many members of the Albanian emigrant diaspora returning with years of experience in the catering industries around the world. Set underneath a groovy wave roof.net. the Mrizi i Zanave restaurant is named after Gjerg j Fishta's Renaissance-era sonnet book Valley of Goddesses. Rr. +355 4 224 68 52. a nice garden. It’s hard to go wrong with anything here. +355 68 216 73 57. Q (singles €40. petulla te fshjra. restaurant.10:30. +355 4 224 46 57. swimming pools and an exotic name.inyourpocket. modern complex on the flanks of Mount Dajti. The people behind TBH1 have found another charming villa and have turned it into a buzzing hostel. Rr. Era also delivers home. R6 tel. In summer. washing machine. Q 4 rooms (€12 per bed). PLBKC Venue Park Mullet. Pilsner Urquell is on tap. Free pickup from the airport.QOpen 07:00 . internet and washing machines. Q 5 rooms (1 double. Rr. the Dajti Park offers great views of the city and is a pleasant place to chill out. PAB Albanian Bantia H-4. +355 4 225 78 05. The odd green marble effect in the rooms can be endured in return for the stunning view of Petrela Castle on the opposite peak. it's best to allow the waiters Oda E-5. Ismail Qemali 33. +355 4 226 99 31/+355 68 207 44 49. triples €60). consider ordering a lakror. The Albanian food is excellent.10:30. www. Sun 06:00 . A nearby apartment is available for longer stays. tel. 2 singles €30. Near the corner with Rr. info@dajtipark. look for the sign on the main street. Q 18 rooms (€12-16 per bed). Occasionally musicians also saunter around the dining room.000 lek). Mrizi i Zanave F-5. QOpen 06:00 . tel. km 5. Shuttle buses to the complex depart regularly from the top station of the cable car. km 15. Piazza was Tirana’s first truly elegant restaurant. PHLKCW (+355) 4 83 03 00/+355 68 205 54 84. panorama@ albaniaonline. Apollonia’s menu features not only Greek. with a set of basic rooms with bunk beds. Q 14 rooms (doubles €40). Rr. strings of garlic and peppers and old photos. yellow 1940s Villa Karajani is home to the first hostel in the country. directly to the east of the city. The guest rooms have balconies and are well-equipped. a mix of Mediterranean and Balkan traditions. tel. the salad bar and the decadent selection of cheese. +355 4 230 22 33. Excellent traditional Albanian food served in a large restaurant with nice photos of old Tirana (with English captions no less). Mai Tai Resor t Tirana-Elbasan road. Dining in Tirana is cheap and even in upscale restaurants a main course will not cost much more than 800 lek. Kavajës 175. Rr. tel. One block east of the Rogner Hotel. www. bar.panoramadajt. just 9km east of Tirana and 800 metres above sea level. +355 68 328 66 66. km 22.500-3. amazing views and the classy White Camellia conservatory. The competition has made it more accessible and affordable.com January . Good restaurant on site too. +355 68 216 73 57. +355 68 202 39 36.23:00. Rr. Qemal Stafa 60. Vaso Pasha. +355 4 227 47 07. Luigj Gurakuqi. The classy first-floor Carlsberg restaurant in the Xheko Imperial Hotel is deservedly popular with the foreign crowd. +355 4 223 07 06.it's like you never left your mummy. Try the tavë oven dish served with Korça meatballs or the speciality. Xheko Impe- Out of town Tirana's playgrounds are in the green valley southeast of town along the road to Elbasan.22 WHERE TO STAY and some also have balconies. Albanian and Italian specialities. This is still the place for chic parties and business dinners. Tirana Backpacker Hostel 2 F-2. QOpen 10:00 . Rr. all far from the noise of the capital yet just a short drive to the city centre. 2 chalets €40). Expect modern rooms and services. tel. internet. PAB Piazza E-4. Vinum is tucked away down a small lane. AEB rial Hotel. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. or village pie. Blv. Q (300-700 lek). fax +355 4 230 22 34. Rr. and in the foothills of Mount Dajti. era_delivery@yahoo. but we are especially taken with the steaks. QOpen 12:00 22:30. PE 69 209 49 11. tel./fax +355 4 236 31 24.com tirana. PJB Carlsberg I-4. Near the quaint Ottoman Tanners' Bridge (Ura e tabakëve) by the river Lana. enjoy the pool or let the kids romp around. but also kangaroo meat. sitting on (indeed) ottomans at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old house. and fërgesë (fried minced lamb.23:00. (1. tel. Simple breakfast included for the €14+ beds. tel. Q 9 rooms (singles and doubles €20. RESTAURANTS Symbol key P Air conditioning E Occasional live music G No smoking T Child friendly B Outside seating S Take away W Wi-Fi V Home delivery A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking 23 Tirana Backpacker Hostel 1 H-5/6.16:00. with plenty of fresh fish and produce. Surrounded by shelves with dishes. Upmarket Even at the fanciest places in Tirana a meal won’t break the bank.com. Enjoy. Opened by an Albanian-American family in 1993. +355 4 223 50 35. One of Tirana’s nicest restaurants. but Piazza hasn’t lost its cachet. The restaurant has a stylish setting. www. tel. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Rr. with ample opportunity for getting drunk with strangers. QOpen 12:00 . +355 4 224 95 41/+355 Dajti Park Tirana-Dajti road. Presidenti George W. nightlife safaris and outdoor adventures. QOpen 13:00 . Sheshi Italia. tel. +355 4 226 99 31 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Many modern hotels and popular restaurants can be found here. Sami Frashëri. The hostel has 23 beds. PLBKCW Metropolitan J-5.inyourpocket. In the summer many Tiranans trek here to swim in the nice pool. Elbasanit 85.always check that they don't have a wedding or other party planned during your stay. creamy cheese. Sheraton Hotel. tel. a dazzlingly white classicist pleasure garden complete with fountains.com. 4 dorms with 5-6 beds €12/person). the Sheraton’s Metropolitan restaurant has excellent Albanian and international fusion dishes on offer at international prices. The restaurant is in a beautifully restored 1920s villa with a walled garden. Bush 1.24:00. Ded Gjo Luli 1. The charming.com. 12:00-23:00. tel. tel. and the chef/owner produces superb Italian and French influenced dishes. tel. or vegetables. 19:00-23:00. QOpen 12:00 23:00. Meaning 'wind'. PW Albanian cuisine is surprisingly good and tasty. Rogner Europapark Hotel. Standards are often high. Tirana-Elbasan road. A large.24:00. 12:00-22:30. 1 suite €30). feta cheese and garlic). dajtipark. Enjoy excellent traditional North Albanian cuisine here in surroundings reminiscent of a High Albania tavern. The dress code is smart casual. AEB Mrizi i Zanave North Albanian Restaurant Vinum E-5. Home delivery. Blv.24:00. Home of the informal Friday night Tirana expat meeting. Serenata is the home of dishes from the southern Devolli region. Mexican and Chinese food. tel. +355 4 228 03 28. QOpen 07:00 . The food is honest peasant fare such as grilled meat and ribs of lamb. A good selection of wines is available to accompany a large variety of mains. tree-shaded garden beside the river. There's nothing outstanding about the King House. Rr. vegetables and egg for 350 lek) as the standout choice. Rr.com January . PAS Billionaire G-5. PGS International 37 16. Abdyl Frashëri. RESTAURANTS Viva H-4. Rr. with kebabs.22:30. Those bored with Ronald's concoctions may like the huge four-person superpizzas. Murat Toptani.23:00. Bajram Curri. Sheshi Italia. A food court inside the mall attached to the Sheraton hotel. +355 4 227 81 41/+355 69 20 83 317. Rr. Rr. The English-language menu. (550-1280 lek). order the tave dheu (270 lek). with the tave Vila 31 (an oven-baked pot of cheese. QOpen 09:00 . please Faturën ju lutem Sarajet F-5. The set menus with 5-8 dishes are good value. Twin Towers. Serenata E-3. The main outlet is a large tent wedged behind the colonade at the southern end of the boulevard. Rr. The menu has a dazzling 126 options (plus a set of Albanian choices to lure insecure locals inside).23:30. Non-stop burgers. +355 4 226 99 47.23:00. EB Vila 31 E-2. Rr.24:00. PB Mr. London D-4. Next to Hotel California. all available in the dining hall. which is of course famous for its serenades and spicy.23:00. tel. Good Chinese food ser ved in wonder full y chintz y surroundings. this restaurant combines fine dining with a nice view of the main boulevard and the city skyline. tel. moon gates and fish tanks. pork. tel. tel. Jul Varibova 13. tel. saucy and full fat food. You can also get decent chips and kebabs here. tel. QOpen 11:00 .01:00. Try lakror. tel. You're greeted on the white terrace by a Japanese stone lantern overlooking a gurgling stream. BS Menu decoder Meat & Fish beef chicken lamb pork sausage veal schnitzel fish salmon sea food trout Fruits and vegetables apple banana cabbag carrot eggplant mushrooms orange peppers tomatoes Drinks beer juice wine water Mish & Peshk mish lope pulë qengji derri suxhuk mish viçi shnitcell mish peshku salmon fruta deti troftë Frutat dhe perimet mollë banane lakër karrotë patëllxhan këpurdha portokall speca domate Pijet birrë lëng verë ujë French Patisserie Française G/H-4. (600 lek). Gjon Muzaka 31. +355 4 225 70 12/+355 68 218 70 81. An unusually named Chinese restaurant. There's pasta and pizza at low prices and a large red building housing the culinary equivalent of the UN. restaurantroyal@hotmail. Also at (G-6) Blv. A charming rural-style restaurant in the big city. A favourite for expats and visitors alike. just the way the Chinese like i t. The seafood specialities include calamari and shrimps. Rr. Sheshi Italia. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. QOpen 08:00 . QOpen 08:30 . +355 4 273 08 89. Rr. +355 4 227 19 38.23:00. QOpen 08:00 . Part of a Greek restaurant chain.June 2010 . but the delicious freshly cooked rotisserie chicken is worth waiting for. Bush. Abdi Topani 7. This converted house has rustic seating inside. QOpen 08:00 . N°51. Come on a warm night and dine al fresco in the glow of the pyramid. Pjetër Bogdani. Rr.22:00. QOpen 07:00 . PA Asian Da Shang Hai I-4. Strictly for drinks and a gander. spiced meatballs baked in a clay bowl. QOpen 08:00 . where British and Italian food is served.com tirana. Rr. Albania's first US-style fastfood chain comes complete with plagiarised McD logo and boxes.23:00. home cooking restaurant that pleases all with good cooking and friendly service. Mihal Duri 22. (500-700 lek). tel. PTB With a nicely low-key decor of traditional art and costume. Zogu I. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. A large. A French-owned culinary amalgamation with a patisserie at the front flogging bread and cakes. tel. tomatoes. QOpen 12:00 . Located on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers. Find Da Shang Hai signposted down an small alley. +355 4 225 45 71. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkur tit. centred on the town of Korça. Rr. just reliably good Albanian and Italian food served in pleasant surroundings by friendly and attentive staff. Sun 13:00 .22:00. QOpen 08:00 . Wandering Brits should feel right at home here in this small Albanian corner of Blighty. Chicken I-4. Far East H-5. chips and pizza. Ask to see the carved wooden ceilings on the first floor and the small hamam.24:00. herbs and spices or tave me qofte. tava kosi (280 lek) that's with yoghurt. Sarajet is housed in one of the survivors. +355 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. the grand wooden Toptani family house.23:00. found beyond a set of carved wooden pillars in a courtyard opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. Mimi I-5. +355 4 227 19 87. or try the Elbasan version. The food is fresh and delicious. Sit in the cheap and cheerful dining section or take it away to smear grease all over your face elsewhere. and in summer tables below the vines in the shady courtyard. (600-1200 lek). Fast food & Snacks Concentrations of grease can be found around the intersection of Rr. tel. Big Bite I-4. (900-1500 lek). 1. shared by four restaurants. +355 4 227 King House I-4. The menu has every thing from sushi (from 600 lek) to Indonesian satay beef and a Korean-style sizzler barbecue. too.com. Situated on one of the few streets in central Tirana still lined with old-fashioned villas. Presidenti George W. Skanderburgers (named after the national hero) and 'Big Supreme' menus (420 lek) on the menu here. QOpen 11:30 23:00. +355 4 225 51 27. an oven dish with meat and cheese. tel. lists a good value set menu deal as well as several fish dishes. PAB Kolonat I-5. +355 4 225 Royal G/H-4. Asim Zeneli 6. PA 77 08.23:00. Find Oda down the first alley west of the market. Rr. Most traditional Ottoman-era houses have disappeared in Tirana. 25/1. Italian and Asian. tel. PTAB 4 225 55 59.24 RESTAURANTS to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. Tirana's other popular fast-food chain. (800-1300 lek). dating from 1780 and looking good since its recent renovation.inyourpocket.24:00. this pan-Asian restaurant has elements of many Oriental cultures reflected in both the design and the menu. QOpen 11:00 .23:00. See also the café reviews for healthier snacks. Near the Xheko Imperial hotel. Q Open 10:00 . Q Open 24hrs. There's friendly service and a full range of chicken. Popular for office lunches and for a quick dinner. TIYP readers recommend the Paris Brest cake. QOpen 08:30 . tel. Rr. and behind it a faux Parisian café with mirrors and oozing red colours everywhere. Dervish Hima. Dëshmorët e Kombit.QOpen 11:00 . +355 4 222 00 00. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. (600-700 lek). fountains and a playground. B 25 Restaurant talk Waiter! A table for two Non-smoking / smoking Kamarier! Një tavvolin për dy Ndalohet duhani / Lejohet duhani The menu please Menune ju lutem I’d like to order Do doja ta bëja porosin Do you have vegetarian food? Kni ushqim vegjetarian Surprise me! Më befaso The bill. kindly translated by the US embassy staff. while inside it's all Chinese woodwork. on the terrace or for take-away.inyourpocket. noodle and beef standards. +355 4 224 30 38. (600 lek).23:00. AE Lulishte 1 Maji F-5/6. Q Open 12:00 . with three cuisines on offer: Mexican. QOpen 09:00 . unforgettable even after washing it all down with their home-made raki. Sheraton Plaza Mall. S Il Pomodoro Food Court H-5. Light lunch or supper accompanied by red wine here is highly recommended. Abdyl Frashëri. Good and affordable Chinese food is offered at Tirana’s second Shang Hai restaurant. a flat pancake stuffed with green beans. From Rruga Kavajës walk down Rruga Naim Frashëri and look for the sign down the the fourth alley on your right. Blv. +355 4 224 63 76. It's hot and it's busy. (150 lek). Abdyl Frashëri 16. It's all good. +355 4 223 88 51. Unfortunately the food is nothing special. central. Here's a simple. Billionaire adds to the atmosphere by providing a restful terrace and garden where you can smell the flowers as you sip your drink or dine on mainly Italian food. tel. For something local. tel. Shang Hai F-5. (300-700 lek). A large Italian eatery occupying half of the Taiwan complex. excellent meat. QOpen 07:00 . Il Capriccio Enjoy fresh fish from the depths of the Adriatic Sea Open daily 11am to midnight. with partying until the early hours. (800 lek). +355 4 224 Vila Metropolitan H-4. all with great views of the surrounding valleys and hills. Opposite the Iranian embassy. tel.inyourpocket. QOpen 07:30 . Rr. +35 69 317 70 84. with cosy indoor rooms and a terrace with a pond. Asim Zeneli 9. tel. Rinia Napoli D-2. Rr. Pallatet Agimi. Sami Frashëri 20/1.greenhouse. tel. Yamato I-4. One floor up. with Albanian and Italian food. (350650 lek). tel. Albania Tel: 04 223332.23:30. One of the first private restaurants to open in 1991 and strategically placed near the clutch of embassies along Rr. There's often live music on Friday and Saturday. Closed Sun. Sky Club G/H-4.net. Just east of the city centre. (400-800 lek). but the views make up for that.23:00. tel. and visit a restaurant that doesn’t do menus.24:00.who’ll tell you there’s no menu but will make several suggestions.though be aware the salads feed two. this sleek first-floor steak restaurant is decked out with light wood and has a pleasant terrace overlooking the park. upper cable car station.inyourpocket. QOpen 11:30 . Tirana’s most novel restaurant is perched on top of the 17-storey Sky Tower. and shrimps.June 2010 Otium H-3. tel.02:00. tel. there are tables with red-cushioned seats. +355 68 401 10 21. +355 69 207 00 82. Don’t miss the chocolate mousse. PB Street views from the Noi café meals.24:00. and looking like any neo-rustic restaurant. Bajram Curri. the courtyard of this elegant Italian grill house is a pleasant and quiet place to try a grilled meat or Albanian speciality. QOpen 07:00 . +355 4 225 88 60. Blvd. The food is traditional Albanian. +355 4 69 208 81 38. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. A 1930s villa with a quiet courtyard hidden behind high hedges seems the perfect place to have Mediterranean Green House G-5. the service can be numbingly slow. 19:00-23:00. and serves pretty decent sushi.800 lek). ext 143. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. though it’s wor th asking for a table in the enclosed balcony room. our experience was marred when we were left waiting while the waiters checked Facebook and played games on the restaurant PC. (700-1. (700-1200 lek). +355 4 223 33 21/+355 69 272 35 10. Tirana's first Levant-themed restaurant has silver curtains creating an intimate atmosphere around the low tables and Lebanese specialities such as tabuleh salad on the menu. (500-900 lek). +355 4 226 74 39. PAEB La Tavernetta H-4. tel. QOpen 12:00 .23:00. Logically located right opposite the Netherlands embassy building. +355 4 234 75 222 26 32. this basement restaurant specialising in Italian fish dishes is well worth a visit. Gjon Pali II. Brigada e VIII. What remains. +355 68 230 88 08. (400-800 lek). Pirro Mani is named after the celebrity owner and has no arsonist links whatsoever. etc). Ali Demi 131.23:00. Otium is a deliciously unpretentious place for a great meal. The open kitchen offers full views of cooks whacking lambchops into submission. Great home made pasta. tel. Rr. The menu is fairly standard. and a varied menu.al.24:00. Serendipity offers an irresistible combination of attractive clientele. +355 4 225 No menu Let go of those old-fashioned certainties.24:00. tel. and wines displayed along the walls. PABW 04 46. squid. Italian Casa di Pasta G-4. But it does. Rr. tempura and teriyaki dishes . served with a smile. No menu here. QOpen 12:00 . Famed locally for the Italian food on offer. Steakhouse G-4. PEB Park. Edi spent 15 years learning the trade in Italy before starting his own venture here. Q Open 12:00 . Brigada VIII. PAB Japanese 4 225 82 38. The restaurant ser ves various Albanian and I talian meals. Clamber up the steps to the first floor dining room and be wowed by fast and knowledgeable staff .24:00. QTU City mall. while inside it's all minimalist chique with delicate spotlighting. +355 Castle dining Kalaja e Petreles (Petrela Castle) Petrele. this pleasant restaurant has great semicovered terrace seating where you can plot the downfall of the Dutch government. Rr. while the rustic interior is also capable of holding a wedding party or two. QOpen 12:00 . Th ere are several rooms. Lurking in a cellar below a modern high-rise lies this rustic Albanian tavern with wooden beams. The outside seating area has a tropical feel to it. chicken jambalaya.23:00. and T-bone steaks. Albanian and Italian dishes are available too. info@greenhouse. +355 4 224 Amor F-1. tel. and although their efforts result in fine dishes. PLBW RESTAURANTS 27 La Cantinella H-4. QOpen 12:00 . skyclub@ albaniaonline. tel. +355 4 222 16 66. PB Serendipity I-4. Mob: 0692723510 +355 4 225 93 77. when we visited it was so busy that the waiters were stressed and unfriendly so perhaps it's best to come early or avoid the Vila on busy nights. On weekends. QOpen 11:30 . The newest addition to the Taiwan entertainment complex. innovative cocktails and fusion food (curry. QOpen 07:00 . sashimi. BK Pirro Mani Rr. tel. The reasonable I talian food here is complemented by an excellent salad bar. Rr. (950 lek). al. The Petrele castle restaurant has tables both outside and in the little tower. The prices of the international dishes served here are as high as the location. Unfortunately. Napoli is a good spot for diplomats and other passers-by. (800-1. Over the past year or two. (700 lek). 71 90. QOpen 08:00 . Rr.24:00.24:00. Rr. Rr. There's traditional and modern art on the walls. QOpen 07:00 . medallions. spinning pizza dough or preparing the "capricious fish salad". Admission 250 lek/ person for groups. tel. Or perhaps just tuck into Albanian food and pizzas. Sun 18:00 . Inside. +355 4 225 11 75/+355 4 225 11 78. 26/1. Bajram Curri. Half an hour’s drive east of Tirana along the road to Elbasan. However. QOpen 11:00 . Rr.com . Blv. superb desserts and all at reasonable prices. Rr. Rr. Blv. B January .com. Skenderbeg. Abdyl Frashëri. tel. Who'll convince the UN and NGOs hogging the other lovely villas on this street to make way for progress? QOpen 19:00 . Jul Varibova 6. The ser vice and mono-lingual staff requires some training. P Seafood Il Cappricio di Zio Edi G-4. but also has a range of other non-steak meals. just what the chef/owner decides to make that day. The menu has items such as the Mosaic mixed grill and sirloin Angus steak. but it’s well wor th visiting.17:00. www. QOpen 12:00 . PAB 67/+355 69 202 98 63. A superb-looking restaurant in an old villa. P Mamma Rosa H-3. A favourite among foreigners. P Lebanese 1001 Netë H-5. There's knowledgeable service and wifi too. (750-1300 lek). First a Turkish place called Efendy.23:00. unmarked above the Euromax supermarket in the QTU City mall. A charmingly converted villa with seating indoors and on the terrace and balconies. Q Open 08:00 . then Anais with international food. this restaurant has changed name and cuisine so often that we're always writing new reviews for it. tel. The Italian food here is a cut above the rest and certainly is worth trying. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Named after the 1001 nights during which Scheherazade told unfinished tales to the Persian king to save herself from execution at dawn. the café section has a revolving floor (see Cafés). The huge fruit salad is recommended on hot days. Pallatet Agimi Tirane. and his kitchen dishes out fantastic appetisers and tasty variations on fresh sea fish. It’s only a little place so booking is advisable for dinner. and a stylish restaurant upstairs. thankfully. is the bathroom with a real bath where you can take refuge from this fast-changing city.20:00.26 RESTAURANTS Food with a view Ballkoni Dajtit Mount Dajti. large spoons and lu tes. Q Open 12:00 .though the exact menu depends on which fish were netted that morning. Find it near the corner with Rruga Vaso Pasha. tel. Rr. Nikolla Tupe. Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha.200 lek). QOpen 08:00 . 15 73/+355 69 268 49 52. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkur tit. +355 4 Vila Ferdinand I-4. P Vila Logoreci I/J-3. Set back from the street.24:00. this nicely converted villa is the largest city-centre venue with a café on the ground floor and the terrace around.02:00. instead of attending to customers. a pot stove. +355 4 222 35 70.500 lek). accompanied by a good selection of wines. A fantastic setting for a very good restaurant. tel. +355 4 223 15 67.02:00. call in advance to check it's not booked full.24:00. A glass elevator stuck on the side of the building takes you up to the terrace from where there are tables and great views in all directions.22:00. Rr.com tirana. Taiwan. Rinia Park. www. There's a large seating area in the garden. tel. for vegetarian viagra try the 'aphrodisiac salad'. Beyond the unassuming facade. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkur tit N°5. QOpen 11:00 . that several locals have written to us to say it does not exist. Durrësit 79. wi th prices reflecting the effor ts needed to haul it all up the mountain. P Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. A lovely Alpinestyle wooden cabin restaurant with excellent views over Tirana an d th e wid e surroun din gs. PB One of our favourite new places. Right beside the dictator's old villa. Mustafa Matohiti. Rr. all cooked fresh. Q Open 08:00 . The pasta dish that TIYP had was excellent . Villa Amsterdam H-5. (600-1. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Its scrumptious pizzas and seafood are conjured up by a chef who trained in Italy. Albania's first Japanese restaurant is so wellhidden.23:30.restaurantnapoli. it has now morphed into an Italian eatery with standard pastas and steak. Rr. Ask for the six fish dish starter (900 lek) to sample various such creations. both located in one building.23:00.inyourpocket. +355 4 226 66 66. Rather than being perched at lofty Alpine altitudes. Resembling a Swiss chalet. The terrace is great for a coffee or one of the grill or meat dishes on the menu. tel. (700-900 lek). Rr. +355 4 227 35 55. Rr. 2. tel. Prices are very reasonable for the feast you'll get.al. nargil pipes and other nicknacks. such as the raw fish with radish. www. grapes or strawberries as a starter. but they’re housed in better conditions than animals in the local zoo. salmon and more. Rozafa E-5. szekja@yahoo. PB Sofra e Ariut (Bear’s Lair) Rr.sofraeariut. The cages containing Liza the bear. or you could order one of the many seafood options on the menu. Labinoti. some monkeys. which includes octopus. and the place is nicely decorated with kilim carpets. Near the Martyrs’ Cemetery. ALB Magic Blue H-4. this Swiss-themed restaurant can be found in a series of small rooms in a basement beside the Grand hotel. Rr. +355 4 224 86 Juvenilja Castelo J-6. QOpen 07:00 . (550-3400 lek). Friday and Saturday evening. Try the Turkish pizza lahmaxhun. tel. calamari. QOpen 11:00 . P Post-socialist slogans at the entrance into town Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.it. eagles and chickens around the lush terrace of this popular restaurant may cause you to raise your eyebrows. one of the many kebab dishes. +355 4 222 68 18. where you cook skewered bits of meat in a pot of boiling oil . QOpen 10:00 . tel. Excellent dining in large rooms. allencompassing balconies or tiered-terraces overlooking the greenery.22:00. served in an earth-coloured space with framed bricks. piled high with more tentacles and suckers that you can count. +355 4 225 Nëna Mbretereshë Rr. a multi-talented salad bar and gigantic pizza inhabit a customised castle on the edge of the park.200 lek for two). Rr. A modern seafood restaurant in the blloku fitted out rustic-style. you can choose between superb cheap seafood or superb expensive seafood at the two Rozafa restaurants. Ismail Qemali 11. +355 69 205 92 52. Luigj Gurakuqi 2. QOpen 07:00 . The catch of the day can be inspected fresh on a bed of ice beside the entrance and you can simply choose the fish of your liking. tel.com. PAB Swiss Swiss Chalet H-4.com.23:00. tel. +355 4 237 29 04. Decorated with old photos of quaint Helvetic towns.rozafa. PLEB 06 33. Treat yourself at least once to the upmarket version (down the alley and through the wooden door on the left). this restaurant serving original kuzhina turke is worth the short walk west from the centre. instruments. The “Queen Mother” restaurant is a quaint wooden lodge-type building set on a hill overlooking the trees of Grand Park.24:00. Gjeneral Niko Pushkini.16:00.24:00. PGB Turkish Sofra F-2. www. There's also fondue Bourguignonne. PALBSW 70/+355 4 223 91 14. There's live piano music every Wednesday.smelly but good fun.24:00. Q Open 12:00 . or ask for traditional grilled fish or lobster. or sink your teeth into sweet sticky baklava pastries. QOpen 12:00 . the elegant interiors are great for long Albanian lunches or dinners. It's as if the Ottomans never left. near the Martyrs’ Cemetery.com .24:00. QOpen 08:00 . 19:00-23:00. The hot choc fondant cake is a worthy dessert. Rr.28 RESTAURANTS Park restaurants Lining Tirana’s Grand Park are several large restaurants where you can relax in the cool fresh air and say hello to a bear. Kavajës 170. The Italian-trained chef likes to experiment with weird combinations here. but foreigners sitting inside will have a hard time understanding why a restaurant in such a fine location keeps the curtains tightly closed. try the seafood buffet. QOpen 12:00 . PAB Vila 12 G/H-5. A gourmet fish restaurant that has some very fishy combinations indeed. Although Albanian food is heavily influenced by the Turks. With fish and other seafood coming fresh from their own fish market across the street. Mustafa Matohiti 12. and potato-cake with cod and mozzarella as a main course. tel. Vaso Pasha. These fine purveyors of Italian and Albanian specialities. shrimps. it's a great place to sample various styles of molten cheese such as raclette (dripped) and fondue (dipped. Elbasanit. P al. a buffet of free snacks is offered with the drinks. Ismail Qemali 27. that’s illegal. PB Towers. There’s a pleasant terrace and a cosy smoke-free interior with a poster of New York’s twin towers.. Fri. An eclectic. The grey walls are hung with Albanian modern art. Book cafés 227 12 88. PAEB Buda Bar H-4. Sat 09:00 . coffee. that is. bars and clubs (and indeed workplaces) in Albania. QOpen 08:00 . Rr. Bars 42. The restaurant (summer only) serves good pasta and fish dishes. Get a shot of culture in this well-hidden artist's café.23:00. There’s free wifi. Sun 18:00 .charlsbistro. man .. QOpen 07:00 . bars and clubs. Sited in one of the busiest areas of town by the university bookstore. Beer 300 lek.the coffee and cakes on offer are pricey and no better than those at ground level. Rr.. and this will help in a small way. Rr. Panini fillings include omelet. salads. Bring the kids. tel. A lovely book café. Join TIYP in asking restaurant managers to have at least one local brand on the menu so patrons have the choice. Pjeter Bogdani 36.inyourpocket. This part is bathed in a relaxing creamy yellow glow from the overhead canopy . Thu.com. cocktail . QOpen 24 hrs. pancakes. and chances are that you’ll get sparkling water that was shipped all the way from France. QOpen 07:00 . Rr. just north of the river. sandwiches. This helps keep the air moving Pub talk Where is the nearest bar / club? I need a. Noi Café Rr... Beer 300 lek. retreat to the first floor of the building with its living room style bar. this café serves a damn good cappuccino.24:00. Ismail Qemali. +355 69 209 99 10. Friday and Saturday with Salsa dancing. free snacks come with the drinks. QOpen 08:00 . That’s also the main reason to come .. Juna is busy all day long. pasta. following the corridor on your right. wine . The floor of the glass box on top of Albania’s highest building revolves slowly to give a 360-degree panorama of the city. Blv. though it's the cocktails and daily DJ parties that interest the majority of visitors. tel. croons his evergreens on weekend nights.QOpen 07:00 . Sat 07:00 . Your place or mine? Where I come from. followed by DJs. NIGHTLIFE Drink ujë. when the place fills up on Wednesday and Saturday for live performances by local bands. Indonesian coffee made from beans that have passed through the bowels of a civet (an animal that looks like a weasel). Ismail Qemali. P Meduza H-5. Hoxha Tahsim 1. Vaso Pasha. (600-750 lek). Ku ndodhet klubi më I afërt? Dua një …. PBW Sky Club Café G/H-4. +355 4 224 Gregory’s Coffee H-4..23:00. tel. tel.com. Rr. PEBW 31 Artist Lounge H-5.com Flares H-4. In winter. Mustafa Mahotiti.com. QOpen 09:00 . sandwiches. followed by cocktails. Amen! QOpen 07:00 . There are not many English-language titles on offer but you can always bring your own book or newspaper along. The students. www. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. chicken and Albanian-style meatballs and cheese.. but if you go right to the back. Themistokli Gërmenji. and Rr.24:00.03:00. QOpen 07:00 .02:00. Durrësit. you're in a different place. and several good brands such as Glina and Tepelena are on the market. Rr... Noi is a pleasant and modern ‘gourmet café’ with an amazing range of wood-roasted single-origin and blended coffee on the menu. followed by DJ music. 90 lek bottomless coffee.. Beer 400 lek. We recommend ordering a coffee. Twin Drinks at the Steelwings biker bar holding down a 1. and some venues that we have listed as cafés or bars are known to morph into clubs on weekend nights. +355 4 227 45 11. fashionable thirtyish crowd populates this fantastic lounge bar with 1960s-80s inspired music in the bllok area. QOpen 08:00 23:00. Rr. there’s a Playstation corner. Rr. tel. café and reading room that also has a quiet study room in the basement.01:00.22:30. www. English and Australian beers are on tap. QOpen 08:00 . For literary insomniacs: a non-stop bookshop. Beside the car park. +355 4 226 65 Charl’s Bistro H-4. +355 4 222 35 98. There's good ventilation. PT Juna I-4. Italiane 4. tel..02:00. unfortunately with very few English-language titles in the shop section. Rr.500 lek cup of Kopi Luwak. Fri. Epër7shme G-5. "This is one east European capital the stags might want to miss" wrote travel journalist Simon Calder in the UK's Independent paper. A popular café at the bllok’s main crossroads.03:00. There's a fine line between cafés. nardimuho@yahoo. tel. bright and spacious café serving fresh fruit juices and smoothies. right behind the Friends Book House. Brigada VIII. Rr. Beer 400 lek. Beer 100 lek. tel. PBW Living Room F-5.. For something really special try 90. or take away. When the karaoke is turned off.01:00. Ismail Qemali 12.23:00. Vesa Center.24:00. just relax and enjoy the modern Albanian art on display. Rr.01:00. Also on Rr.. tel. Pall. Could be the location. this is one of Tirana’s best. PAEBK Pastiçeri International I-4. A pleasant enough bar.if you can find a seat. . Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5. Modem and comfortable. or hang out in the curious booths lining the walls.03:00. QOpen 07:00 . Friend’s Book House G-3. Rr. specialising in tea.02:00.com January . QOpen 07:00 . Simon clearly reads the wrong guidebooks as Tirana's nightlife scene is not bad at all. Bush 16. The fun starts with the lively xhiro (mass evening stroll). QOpen 07:30 . Squeeze yourself into this bar at the weekend and be prepared for a singalong or even a star turn.. and attentive staff. burgers. PB 4 224 73 53. Twin Bulevard Café G/H-4. friendbookhouse@yahoo. Wolf down tarts and various other pastries . beer . A unique. Dëshmorët e Kombit. +355 4 222 16 66. Find the friendly owners and their friends hanging out at the café section at the back. Rr. +355 4 224 70 89. Gjerg j Fishta. Lebanese and international dishes is served. and the waterfall that cools drinkers in summer. PEBW Converse G/H-4. B Mojo H-5/6. Mojo is officially a no-smoking café even though everyone happily ignores that. recite poetry or pin your own home-made art on the walls. lighter . +355 4 tel. Eat/drink in. Blv. Beer 200 lek. Q Open 24hrs.. The children will love the small playground in the adjacent park. the Bulevard is a great night option serving drinks to a thirtyish crowd on the third floor of the twin towers. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 226 51 30/+355 67 203 32 25. tel. PEB MonarC Bar F-5. Overlooking the street from the third floor of the Vesa complex. Recommended for a healthy snack or lunch. pizza. PGB Bardhe e Zi H-3. PJBW Tirana In Your Pocket Stephen Center Café E-5/6. Indian wooden screens. 56. Rr. A bright café serving drinks and snacks such as sandwiches and toast. woman Where can I find a taxi? You have beautiful eyes. QOpen 09:00 .you're out in the open here. The only thing international about this place might be your presence . QOpen 19:00 . The biggest attraction in ‘Black and White’ is the huge black-and-white photograph collection of Albanian artist Artur Gorishti. PTAGBW tirana. Sun 07:30 . Inspired by Tirana and the letter B (note the shape of the café). In the evening. Though we don't want to encourage the bachelor party scene to spread to Albania. All this while Albania has excellent and abundant mineral water.com.24:00. a dimly lit lounge with ottomans and couches to flop around on. tel. More upscale places will also serve American-style coffee (kafe filter). QOpen 08:00 . That's when the pretty people dress up and come out in force to cram themselves on the multilevel decks overlooking the city. Presidenti George W. Sat. Sami Frashëri. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. The only Starbucks-type place in town so far is Gregory’s. PW Kuki G-3.03:00. GW Towers. The bar on the top floor of the hotel is worth mentioning for the dazzling views across town from its wrap-around terrace. +355 68 348 54 90. and ends at the bllok's bustling cafes. Sami Frashëri. tel. tel. Vendi im apo I yti? Prej nga unë vij. +355 69 202 29 01. chilled-out music. not aqua Order a bottle of mineral water with your meal.inyourpocket. and is certainly improving fast. A modern coffee and sandwich bar on the ground floor of the Twin Towers. On Friday evenings the café hosts video sessions of live concerts and documentaries.but it’s still one of the better places to go to get your sugar-and-coffee fix. QOpen 07:30 . while minimal and modern music is played on the stereo. +355 4 223 47 48. tel. fresh juice. Abdyl Frashëri. Sami Frashëri. there's a good-value lunch menu and in the evening a selection of Italian. justfruits@hotmail. Rr. Italy or further away – usually at a high price for both the environment and the diner’s wallet. tel.June 2010 . Sit at the bar under a ceiling with photos of Old Tirana. acquiring a ‘strong complex flavour’ along the way. A large bar in the wacky pallati me birila building.monarc. +355 68 222 07 00. DJs and bands. Rr. Rr. www. A good place to pick up conversation with young Tiranians. The somewhat oddly spelt Charl’s regularly puts on live music acts from across the region and various other events from Thursday to Saturday. Although there are enough Buddha Bars in the world to start a religion.and it’s more than that. PBW 54 24.24:00. Near the corner with Rr. Try to visit when Roberto. Set up by evangelical missionaries who certainly know how to run a good café. Near the main police station. Blv. kjo është jo legale. a pint of hair gel and a clipped goatee. a cosmopolitan meeting place for locals and foreigners alike. You'll know when the sound gets cranked up and long-legged promo or gogo girls climb onto your table. Abdyl Frashëri 5.. Sun 17:00 24:00.. Also on the Durrës highway in the Praktiker DIY store. QOpen 07:30 . this is certainly a nice addition to Tirana's nightlife scene. There's live music on Wednesday. electricity permitting. +355 69 202 70 Delikatesë H-5. PABW Flex H-4. birrë verë koktell cigare çakmak tabak burr grua Ku mund ta gjejë një taksi? Keni sy të bukur. Literally a cool bar. or the good fresh coffee they serve. English breakfast and on Saturdays waffles.stephencenter.com. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Ismail Qemali 12. but the cocktail bar in the lush small garden spits out great drinks all week.23:00. young and rich to do their thang. Rr. sweet and hearty crepes. The name means ‘suitable’ . B Quo Vadis H-4. . Big blurry photos and big lamps set the scene for Mojo’s hip crowd.03:00. +355 4 228 03 34. Delicious home-made cakes and sweet chocolatey things served in a restaurant that also has various Italian dishes on he menu. pastas. From 17:00-20:00 on weekdays. The deep red walls provide the perfect backdrop for the hip. tirana. +355 +355 4 225 67 50. Mexican dishes. a talented Italian artist. Groups: admission 250 lek/person.30 CAFÉS All cafes and bars offer espresso (kafe ekspres) or Turkish coffee (kafe turke).24:00. Jul Variboba 2. Perfect for an indulgent lunch. salads and baguettes. cigarette . artists and intellectuals that visit this tiny basement 'social club' to sip coffee and play chess seem the exact opposites of the loud hairy men slamming down shots at Steelwings next door. as after a hot summer's day the large rooftop lounge area catches the evening breeze. though service can be tediously slow when it’s busy. Closed Sun. tel.. +355 4 226 67 77. tel. ashtray . Near the Sky Tower. The Albanian economy needs all the support it can get.23:30. QOpen 06:00 . QOpen 08:00 . QOpen 08:00 . +355 69 208 84 81. we were treated to a delicious dry and fruity Bordeaux wine. QOpen 11:30 . the admission fee charged on these nights includes a drink. Rr.warble along to your favourite Albanian or foreign song together with the Magic 4 group (www. tel. though beer costs more when bands play.01:00. Papafingo is Albanian for attic. Hidden deep in the bllok area near the Conad supermarket. a Guernica painting. Noel is appropriately owned by the director of the local film institute. and the selection of Italian. Ismail Qemali. Rr. com. this rocking bar full of leather-clad motorbike enthusiasts is decorated with all the usual Americana. The karaoke starts at 22:30. The locals come here for the see-and-be-seen factor and nip coffee and wine or taste the antipasta dishes. Surf's up at the tropical-style Tiki Bar. Rr.500 lek. Pjetër Bogdani 8. QOpen 08:00 . PE Rockwood H-5. enter at the 'Midnight Passion' sign opposite the Raiffeisen bank and head up the dangerously narrow staircase at your own risk. tel. but is at its best when live rock music is played on Fridays and Saturdays.24:00. Sat 08:30 . Rr. +355 4 228 01 42. Admission is free.4mg. tel. as they should be. (600-900 lek).what could possibly be better? Sample a large variety of mainly Italian wines.04:00. Themistokli Gjërmenji. Official home of the Steelwings Albania Motorcycle Club and easily located by the multitude of cool rides parked outside. Rr. with a good selection of whiskeys to fuel the night. Sat 08:00 . in this small venue that’s set back from the road. +355 69 260 06 57. Noel F-5. There’s Italian food on offer (pasta. country and the odd rock 'n roll song. tel.02:00. The most upmarket wine bar in town can be found on the first floor here. Tiki I-4. tel. tel. Ismail Qemali 29/1. 19:00-24:00. Fri. QOpen 10:00 . At 22:30 on Friday and Saturday nights. There’s a very nice terrace with views of the treetops. Murat Toptani. Food on offer includes traditional tava and qofte meatballs. magic4. A small bar with classic green and red wallpaper and a great atmosphere. Overlooked by a portrait of Napoleon. Exclusive Armagnac brandy is also served at €1500 a bottle or a mere €150 per glass. One of Tirana's cooler bars. seafood) and on Friday and Saturday evenings there’s live tinkling on the piano. A Alcora G/H-4. A mature crowd of culture vultures can be found sitting eating and drinking at tables amidst hundreds of magazine photos of movie icons and scenes. wine. Blv. budgies in a cage and a tree lit up pink. PE tirana. B Wine Spirit I-3. Friday and Saturday. Their classic Tirana Rock Café T-shirts sold out in no time.24:00. tel. Perlat Rexhepi. a 2005 Chateau Lagasse. ask to see if they're available again. Mercifully. Sat 17:00 .02:00.01:00. no house music is played here.17:00. Papafingo H-3. Radio H-4. and the owners Tani and Dani stress that everyone is welcome. Andon Zako Çajupi. on the top floor of a nondescript building. Wednesdays sees bands play live ere. Rr. and there’s a good variety of beer. +355 69 407 47 03. Yum.01:00. PB film lover's den of delights.02:00. unmarked. covered in old radio station logos. Sun 18:30 . +355 69 207 35 90. Vesa Center. Sun 17:00 . and it's indeed found hidden. On our visit. QOpen 08:00 . cognac and over 30 types of whiskey. Twin Towers. French and other foreign wines is complemented by a selection of Albanian reds.inyourpocket. Closed Sun. Rr. serving endless coffees by day and playing rock and other music styles at night. Fri. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. PE tel. EB Stylus Club Marriott H-4. Snacks are served. One of Tirana's best bars has a lot of wood. of which Kajoshi is worth a try. The walls are lined with wine bottles. but it's a fun place to share dirt-cheap drinks (Birra Korça 150 lek) with the studying masses.inyourpocket. QOpen 07:00 . Enoteca Joan H-4. Vaso Pasha. as well as some great Italian and French dishes. this is one of Tirana’s better wine bars. sophisticated interiors. tel. +355 69 28 44 24. just honest blues. Rr. +355 67 210 Bonaparte G/H-4. a ropey ship-theme dominates the two-storey interior. Fri.cocktails and dozens of whiskeys available. local and foreign artists play live. Admission on concert nights 1. tel. QOpen 09:00 . A great bar dedicated to recorded and live jazz music on the ground floor of the Vesa Center building. A small and friendly bar on the ground floor of a tall office building (also conveniently housing the IYP offices). Rei Jazz Club I-4. with a dark wood interior with old carpets and a grand piano. where surfboards stand in the sand. A wine-lovers’ café run by a sommelier .05:00.02:00. This student bar runs on love and dedication rather than on permits. The usual drinks are served. www. Dervish Hima. +355 68 401 78 15. Tirana Rock I-4. N°11/1. quiet music and a good selection of wines to sample. while house and R&B DJs take over on Friday and Saturday. EB Read more reviews at http://tirana.com). Rr. Imagine is pleasant enough for some late-night drinking. and palm leaf parasols shade the cocktail-sipping patrons from the Albanian sun. A café and bar behind Enver Hoxha's old villa that really comes alive during the Friday and Saturday night karaoke sessions . Blv.23:00.32 NIGHTLIFE Wine bars The latest trend in Tirana. Rock 'n Roll I-6.com Tirana In Your Pocket . Dëshmorët e Kombit. +355 69 202 23 31. visitors can get sozzled on a dizzying array of quality French wines.01:00. tel. tel. Gjin Bue Shpata. +355 4 227 88 87. A rock bar with a homage to the late great John Lennon. with black and white photos of him and other famous musicians lining the walls. Abdyl Frashëri 5. Rr. Rr. QOpen 07:00 .24:00. Visit on Thursdays for the unplugged sessions or on weekend nights for live rock and country music.02:00. Filled with students and others on most nights. QOpen 17:00 . with DJs sometimes dropping by to spin their discs. +355 4 226 54 42. Find it in an apartment building set back from the street. it's a relaxed place to listen to chilled music and chat. QOpen 08:00 . Papa Gjon Pali II. +355 68 206 10 88. as are Cuban cigars that may be smoked here. A popular and stylishly upmarket wine bar on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers complex. and is set in a basement opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. QOpen 17:00 . Abdyl Frashëri. Steelwings (Harley Davidson Bar) G/H-4. 43 57. Only drinks are served. +355 4 224 36 38.23:00. It's a very friendly place. very popular with locals and foreigners alike. Rr. a typewriter on a stool and a few antique radios scattered around. wild parties and loud rock music played every Wednesday. Rr.steelwings-albmc.com Jazz Clubs Imagine H-6. tel. Folie has burst on the scene as Tirana’s best new club. Rr.inyourpocket. wi th several Irish b eers on offer. w w w. Starting with the empty spot to the west of the National History Museum. www. Apart from fruit. with busts. Fri. +355 4 227 47 39. PAE Main sights Central Market (Pazari i ri) E-5. There are also usually a few temporary art exhibitions going on. PB Sharm Club I-5. Tirana and Mt. and therefore the must-sees can nearly be counted on one finger. Elbasanit. Kavajës. and the crowd dancing away the night in this first-floor bar must be deaf for days after the par ty.18:00. There are also various archaeological artefacts on display. Dajti are spread out panoramically before you. with a green and pedestrianised main square. After the regime collapsed. The Puppet Theater has a surprising past: before World War II.inyourpocket. Sunday free. +355 4 223 39 75. But when Albanian-Soviet relations deteriorated. 35 Essential Tirana Tirana’s sights are quite low-key. and a plate from the sunken Italian warship 'Po'. Apart from an impressive selection of medieval icons.net.24:00.34 NIGHTLIFE Zero 42 H-4. Sun Business Centre. +355 4 222 65 41. Sat 22:00-04:30.com/lollipoptirana. beautiful bronze-age jewellery. The club is northeast of the centre near Rruga Qemal Stafa. Sharm is a disco club done up in outrageous colours and materials (think glass floors.museum. Q Open Fri. and now hosts a varied collection that's worth browsing through. tel. Early morning is the best time of day to witness Balkan-style trading and haggling. Blv. the building was reportedly the most expensive ever erected in Albania. There's a terrific party atmosphere and cheap drinks. this gallery has seen a comeback since mayor Edi Rama's election. The casino inside the Taiwan complex has 20 gaming tables and 250 slot machines. QOpen 09:00 . of the city. but the Communists made it absolutely massive (and in the process. Strictly a house and dance music venue. paintings and a very sexy statue of a factory worker. A rocking dance club with a rather strange name playing house and dance music. Closed Sat. foliebar@gmail. Archeology buffs who aren't satisfied by the finds on display at the National History Museum will find even more fragments of various finds here. The bell's metal comes from thousands of bullet cartridges. The square was large even before World War II. Casinos Regency Casino G-4. of course). A popular and very sleek black-and-white lounge bar decorated with photos of blond beauties. Millennium Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) E-4.com. cheeses.com. QOpen 10:30 . The 12m-high dynamic white statue of Mother Albania. or dance the dance to the live music occasionally planned on Saturdays. A short drive on the bus to Sauk. as it's popularly known.regencycasino. fish and meat. Blv. Q Open Fri. and playing the usual house hits to a happy crowd. Watch the website and posters for their themed nights. Set beside the Millennium cinema. but the daily pazari i ri ('new market') truly captures the spirit of the country in a messy explosion of colour. Clubs Folie F-5. In front of the building.myspace. +355 68 Pubs tastic Irish bar in Tirana's bllok area. Art Gallery (Galleria e Arteve) F-4/5. Fri. th ou gh lackin g pub grub. spearheads. follow our short city walk (see page 36). Pjeter Bogdani. B Irish Bar Tirana H-4. sweaty moves on the dance floor and ruptured eardrums. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.03:00. Closed Mon. Walk to the rear of the building to find some discarded but still defiant Communist-era partizan statues clenching their fists at the sky. Pjetër Bogdani. there's a good hall devoted to realist socialist art. QOpen 10:00 . Rr. At the weekend the DJs come out and do their thing competing against the live bands at Charl's Bistro across the street. Other sights here include the imposing red-brick National Bank. padded walls and Ionian pillars). it housed King Zog‘s puppet parliament. A fan- Mezuraj Museum (Mezuraj Muze) E-3. sofas in vivid red and blinding white and polka dots on the wall. Martyrs' Cemetery (Varrezat e Dëshmorëve) Rr.13:00. Admission free. www. from pottery and animal statuettes to arrowheads and jewellery.myspace.al. Bar & Night club adresa: Rruga Murat Toptani Kompleksi. Sat 08:00 . Find the museum above the Raiffeisen bank on the first floor of the tall business centre 500m from Skanderbeg Square. Dress up. Admission 100 lek. Thoroughly looted in 1997. inaugurated in 1972. QOpen 08:00 . opened in 1988 as a museum dedicated to the Albanian dictator-cum-pharaoh Enver Hoxha. Currently it's being renovated to house a theatre. apartments and a cinema multiplex. Enver Hoxha used to be buried at her feet until he fell from grace in 1991. Join the in-crowd to sip wine. Chinese experts had to be called in to finish the job. Closed Sun. Sadik Petrela 20. children under 12 free. Pjeter Bogdani 32. Tirana's first private museum consists of the 800-object Mezuraj family collection of which a changing selection is on display. This cemetery holds the remains of 900 partisans who fought for Tirana in WWII. tel. If time allows you to take in some culture. tel. Venue Dance Club Rr. +355 69 208 77 33. www. tel. With a large outdoor space for cooling down on warm nights. with occasional stage shows and live music. Pyramid (International Culture Centre) G-5. +355 69 210 13 13. Just east of the Sheraton. including Greek amphorae. Vaso Pasha. Sheshi Skënderbej. Sheshi Nënë Tereza. is that vast expanse of asphalt where you‘ve got to dodge both Mercedes and plastic kiddie cars. 17:00 . Rr. Rr. the place became a conference center and disco (called The Mummy. Admission 300 lek. An achingly trendy club for Tirana's coolest people. Beer 400 lek. Rinia Park. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Dëshmorët e Kombit.venuedanceclub. Designed by Hoxha's daughter Pranvera. the Peace Bell installation was made in 1999 as a memorial to peace by the children of Shkodra.05:00. tel. Sat 08:00 . Animal rights activists won't like the sight of bunches of live chickens slung over bicycle handlebars. but at least these chicks didn't grow up in our Guantanamo poultry farms.17:00.14:30.24:00. the chief Soviet engineer on the project gathered up all the blueprints and left the country. with lots of brushed steel.03:00. lollipop@gmail. . offices. cleared away an old bazaar). people. cheap cock tails. Although the building needs some work. How loud can a student bar get? Raum does i ts best to pu t this to the test. 80m-high buildings accentuating the core tirana. +355 69 337 02 01. the club has a fantastic outdoor terrace area too. Th e b est thin g ab ou t the bar is the buzzing atmosphere and the pleasant ou tside seating area.com January . Lollipop H-4. Today this building contains the Opera and the National Library. PE 301 21 13. www. mezuraj.20:00.com/foliebar. Sheshi Italia. +355 4 224 90 26. Rr. Q Open 08:00 . Th ere are T V screens sh owin g spor ts. 4th century weights. tel. the garden outside has recently been beautifully restored. Sat 22:00-03:00. Playing ‘selected music for good people’ in an extravagant three-storey space with plenty of glass balconies for making yourself seen. Fri. From the heights of the cemetery. E xpect friendl y students. +355 4 226 71 96. The pyramid. tell the cabbie it's near Profarma. Two rooms are dedicated to Albanian paintings and sculptures. PE WHAT TO SEE Raum H-4. Q Open 09:00 .sharm-club. Recent plans envision a complete makeover of Tirana's city centre over the next years. Small fruit and vegetable stalls can be found across the city.com Mosaic fragment at the Shëng jin Church ruin Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.02:00. Rr. enter on the right side of the building. tel. Museums & Galleries Archaeological Museum (Muzeu Arkeolog jik) I-5. new shops. Tirana's main square. the stalls display a dozen varieties of olives. near the ring road. www. the pompous Palace of Culture was built with Soviet assistance. Sheshi Avni Rustemi. with a striking Socialist Realist depiction of happy young people on a harvest campaign. wines and raki throughout small squares and snaking alleyways. Rr. Sat 10:00 . down cocktails and talk the talk. QOpen 08:00 .com. fresh produce and trash. bring ID and be older than 21 to get in. the Et‘hem Bey Mosque and Skanderbeg's statue. fired off during the lawless 1990s. Started in 1958. watches over the graves in a windswept gown. visiting the Et’hem Bey Mosque and the National History Museum before getting a coffee in the bllok area. tel.June 2010 . Taiwan. it looks like Tirana's main square will finally be hip. tel. Murat Toptani. Sun. vegetables. The mosaic on the facade of the National History Museum represents the flow of Albanian history. inyourpocket. Repeated looting in the 1990s has robbed the museum of many artefacts. This elegant Ottoman stone footbridge was once the main connection between Tirana and the highlands to the east. Rr. Galeria Shijaku (Sali Shijaku House) B-5. A statue of Lenin once stood on Blv. F-5. from Skanderbeg Square to the Polytechnic University. The Fine Arts Gallery has some Socialist Realist statues and paintings that are worth a look. It later became the venue for the locals’ xhiro (evening stroll). It's now restored to its former glory and is used by pedestrians again. The feared Sigurimi ran labor camps for political prisoners and maintained a network of informers (known as ‘80 lek men. will take you past Tirana’s highlights in a flash. on the right. and walk 100 metres west. nursing people through a cholera epidemic. who held parades here during World War II. especially women. In fact. Rr. each hall covers one of the stages in the development of the Albanian nation. The Orthodox Church of Albania first became autocephalous in 1937 and again in 1992. Since then. Watch out . but this symbolical de-Stalinisation came too late to save the leaders. 14:00-18:00. Sheshi Skenderbej. Dervish Hatixhe. It was used to get agricultural produce and livestock across the Lana River to the markets. +355 4 224 32 92. A little obscure but well worth a look if you're in this part of town: look for the Hallall pizzeria on the northern end of the street. originally erected by the Italian Fascists.it was closed and turned into a cinema.when all religious activity in Albania was banned . Services resumed in 1990. the Palace now hosts concerts. Originally buried with honours in the Martyrs’ Cemetery.albmuseum. the Catholic Church of St.probably the last place in Europe where he was thus honoured. During the communist era. The Orthodox Church of the Holy Annunciation was built in 1964. Maybe it’s the latter that gives the building a weird resemblance to a sports stadium. completed by the locals and extended to 35m in 1928. modular home on the corner of Rr. A corridor leads past a soot-blackened candle room to where the graves of Hatixhe and her family members can be seen. Started off by Et`hem Bey. A large Ottoman-era konak house surrounded by a lovely garden and a high wall. Orthodox Cathedral F-4. QOpen 08:00 . the mosque reopened as a house of worship in 1991. Unfortunately there's little in the way of explanations. Starting underneath the mosaic of the National Museum on Skanderbeg Square. +355 4 226 14 58. but it has a quite nice interior with impressive concrete architecture. House of the Dervish Khorosani D-4. fenced off and concealed behind pine trees. In late 2008. +355 4 223 50 95. The Lana was rerouted in the 1930s and the bridge was neglected. Shëngjin Church Mosaic (Mozaiku i Tiranës) E-2. the bllok (block) area.com January .slippery when wet. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.com tirana. The collection of villas here. The best place to get more information about Albania’s totalitarian years is the National History Museum which has a large hall dedicated to the period.’ for the monthly 80 lek bonus they supposedly got for snitching on their countrymen). About all that's left of the fortress above ground is a 6m-high Ottoman-era wall. The event was a milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. You can't miss the gargantuan mosaic on the facade . which was until a few years ago buried beneath illegally built bars and pizzerias. On your right. named for the nun who was arguably the most famous Albanian of the 20th century. most of the ‘attractions’ have disappeared. tel. Thu 09:00-13:00. who ruled Tirana in the early 19th century. the Art Academy. And a massive gilded statue of Hoxha was erected on Skanderbeg Square . Sheshi Skenderbej. Cross the next street (Rruga Myslym Shyri) and on your left is the Fine Arts Gallery. 151. Q Open Mon 09:00-13:00. tel.motifs rarely seen in Islamic art. pass Et’hem Bey Mosque towards the elegant government buildings at the end of the square. The grand boulevard leading south from here was the brainchild of the Italian Fascists. The walk described below. but it remains the best place in Albania to tank up on history and to view beautiful finds from the many archeological sites across the country. National History Museum (Muzeu Historik Komthe views of the city centre from the top are worth the climb. A pretty 19th century wooden building set in a small courtyard.17:00. but a few relics are still left over (including the entrance fee you pay at the border to get into this amusement park). Dedicated to the female Bektashi Islamic saint Dervish Hatixhe who was the Tirana Nightingale. The disproportionately large. intersection with Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. Take a look at the frescoes outside and in the portico which depict trees.17:00. Paul (Katedralja e Shen Palit) G-5. during the rule of King Zog. Luarasi. eventually becoming a rubbish tip. This building served as the Soviet embassy until 1961. Rr. is the President’s Palace. a boldly modernist building of mirrored glass and dynamic horizontal lines. On your right is Rinia Park. Left derelict. Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe C-4. Admission 100 lek. Rr. was off-limits to the public and cordoned off by armed guards. +355 4 222 34 46. Tirana's landmark central sight is the clock tower from 1822. www. Kavajës Ottoman Tirana derbej. Admission 300 lek. and you can find some of Tirana’s last Commie statues huddled in a group behind the building. and Hoxha’s longstanding cult of personality was over. 28 Nëntori. and Clock Tower (Kulla e sahatit) F-4/5. in front of the Fine Arts Gallery. empty square at the end of the boulevard is Sheshi Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa Square). and for a while thereafter it housed parliament. impressive enough by Western standards. Rr. Bulevardi Bajram Curri) and perhaps without noticing you’ve crossed the Lana River. while the museum ends with a harrowing exhibition about Albania's gruesome labour camp system and the thousands of men and women who were swallowed by it. when all diplomatic relations were broken off. absolutely dazzled the average Albanian once this area was opened to the public. Kavajës. It miraculously survived the communist era and is still visited by people of varying religions. archaeologists uncovered the extensive fortress foundations that will soon be incorporated into the pedestrianised street. informacioni@albmuseum. but closed in 1967 and was then used to house the Tirana Sports Club. Beyond Rruga Ismail Qemali you’ll pass the Hotel Rogner Europapark. Uncle Joe’s head was carted away before the fall of the regime at the end of 1990.you can still see the raised pedestal. housing ministries and the town hall. it was for long the highest building in town. Under construction. all Albania was a living Stalinist themepark. Party leaders stood on the balcony here and waved to the masses below. the Austro-Hungarian emperor. next to the ugliest new business centre in townis a small park with the busts of the three Frashëri brothers.it represents the development of Albania's history with everyone from Illirians to partisans represented. festivals and fairs. Zhan D`Ark. it can be seen from the far end of Rr. Closed Sun. Find the house in a small courtyard 100m beyond the French cultural institute. making it hard to miss. It reopened as a church in 1990. Ismail Qemali was dictator Enver Hoxha’s villa. After the regime collapsed. Construction of the 'Xhamia e Haxhi Ethem Beut' mosque started in 1794 and was finished in 1821 by Et'hem Bey (who evidently got all the credit). The threestory. Originally built for Party congresses. An excavated Byzantine-era church ruin that was only discovered in 1972 boasts Tirana's oldest artworks: mosaics with geometric patterns and depictions of poultry and fish. Just past the next crossing on your left is the Prime Minister’s Residence. Across the street stood a bust of Joseph Stalin . Admission free. Going further down the paths on either side of the university whisks you out of urban Tirana and into the Grand Park. www. On the right is the former Party Committee building. One hall focuses on the years around the Second World War and the resistance movements. dates from 1817. There's a shady café terrace in the garden. On her death in 1798 a tekke was founded near her turbe (grave). genizah@albmail. Durrësit when entering the city. In 1967 .15:00. united JvM Churches Blv. QOpen 10:00 . Rr. WHAT TO SEE bëtar) E-4. while the high main room has been converted into an art gallery.what bliss that would be now. waterfalls and bridges . and a little further the Palace of Congresses. the Enver Hoxha Memorial (the pyramid) was built in his honour. Hoxha was dug up in 1992 and unceremoniously filed away in Kombinati Cemetery in west Tirana. To the left is the Archaeological Museum. it is now to be renovated and graciously shielded by the concave wall of the high-rise building currently under construction next to it. an event long used to demark the closing time of the formerly adjacent market place.com. Note Mother Teresa and Pope John Paul II featured in the stained glass windows. when a German-made clock was also installed.com. Closed Mon. +355 4 223 46 55. not even Hoxha’s remains could evade the judgement of history. which was once the Communist Party headquarters. Dëshmorët e Kombit stood the headquarters of the Sigurimi (state security police). tel. There are some English texts but it's best to bring an Albanian for a better understanding. The museum shop is an excellent place to shop for traditional crafts. winter afternoons: 16:00-19:00. Perhaps the only real sight in Tirana.000 courageous people dared to attend and remarkably the police did not interfere. Here you arrive at the ‘pyramid’. it used to be closed off to traffic in evenings . Sun 10:00 .com. Cathedral of St. Walk across the next wide streets (Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark. covered in vines. scattered around the site.inyourpocket. This türbe. It honours Kaplan Pasha. Catholic Church (Kisha Katolike) F-3. +355 4 224 86 91. These were built in the 1930s. Worker statues of Tirana. which is now a government residence. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. The municipality reclaimed the area. and sits in the area of skinners and leather workers. this pretty mosque is right on the city's main square. Rr. and formed the heart of Tirana. It was dramatically toppled by demonstrators in 1991. Orthodox Church (Kisha Orthodokse) F-2. Rr. Take your shoes off before entering the inner room. 37 Communist sights Et'hem Bey Mosque F-4. Marie was a gift of Franz Josef. Barrikadave. QOpen 09:00 . Tanners' Bridge (Ura e tabakëve) F-6. Tirana’s Catholic cathedral looks somewhat bland on the outside save for the statue of St Paul perched on the roof. Rr. Brightly lit at night.12:00. trash-strewn and half-sunk into the pavement and lit only by a blue neon lamp for many years. The shadow of the tower strikes the mosque at sunset. Inside. tel. At the very end of the boulevard stands the Polytechnic University. some from the church iconostasis. 10. 16:00-18:00. Murat Toptani. Naim Frashëri. Sheshi Sken- Tomb of Kaplan Pasha (Tyrbe e Kapllan Pasha) On Skanderbeg Square Just over 15 years ago. tel. Fortress of Justinian (Kalaja) F-5. and with popular support bulldozed the buildings in order to restore the park.org.17:00. Behind the Ministry of the Interior on Blv. V. The fortress the place where the main east-west and north-south roads crossed. Zhan D’Ark. or tomb. +355 4 222 37 01. 17:00-19:00. Nicely exhibited in a little park and protected by a makeshift roof. Rr. This was the residential area of Party leaders. then. Closed under communist rule. It consists of eight classical columns linked by arches. Bush. hidden behind trees. Albania was but an outpost on the western fringe of the Byzantine Empire. tel. Built in 1865.June 2010 . Q Open 08:30-12:30. Next to the gate is an octagonal türbe holding the graves of three babas. Presidenti George W. On your right. Its imposing stone façade certainly seems better fitted for reviewing goose-stepping soldiers from than for studying in. After Hoxha’s death.36 WHAT TO SEE City walk Tirana’s most significant buildings are concentrated along one thoroughfare: the Boulevard of the Martyrs (Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit). During official demonstrations and parades. QOpen 09:00 . there are also various stones.orthodoxalbania. When this fortress was built in the 6th century. whose green banks were also crammed with illegal buildings until order was restored. Hotel Dajti. the massive new Orthodox cathedral currently looks like a nuclear power plant but will assume a more church-like look when it’s finished in 2010. without permission from the authorities. tel. an invigorating walk and some ancient history. which offer great views of the surroundings and serve Albanian food. 15 km southeast of Tirana. Sheshi Nënë Tereza. go straight through this town and stay on the main road. but it was eventually captured and used by Turkish soldiers.23:30. +355 No trip to Tirana is complete without a trip out of Tirana. QOpen 08:00 . He served as prime minister in 1924. and Naim was the first major Albanian-language poet. also known as Skanderbeg in English and Skenderbej in Albanian. apparently for being a sort of island in the park. the most famous being the Ottoman campaigns repulsed by the Albanian warrior Skanderbeg and his men. who helped catalyse the Albanian national awakening in the late 19th century.June 2010 . Th e pens are small. the 4km route offers great views of the mountain and the city. The animals appear to be reasonabl y well fe d an d ph ysi call y care d for. when thousands of Tiranians stroll around to meet up and chat with friends. When you’re done shopping and sightseeing. Closed during strong wind. Visi ting Tirana's zoo is a fairl y depressing experience. it`s none other than the Unknown Partisan. first by bears who left a scattering of bones. www. Dajti Ekspres Cable Car (Teleferik) Linza. with round towers at the corners.inyourpocket. One of Albania’s best-preserved castles. Mother Teresa statue I-5. later by humans who dropped all manner of tools in the neolithic. stands at the edge of the park along Rr. One of the few original structures remaining is the clock tower. the Grand Park is a haven from all the traffic and dust. Black Cave (Shpella e Zeze) For a delightful (half-)day Zoo (Kopshti Zoolog jik Tiranë) Grand Park. Find the zoo's unmarked entrance gate on the square at the end of the Grand Park dam.dajtiekspres. and a casino. A free shuttle service is available from the terminus of the Porcelan bus from the city centre. Those guys hanging out around the monument in the morning are not WWII buffs but day labourers waiting for work. The most important sight in Kruja is the semi-ruined citadel area. a fortress dating back to the fifth or sixth century and perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop. If you’re driving. tel. The statue was unveiled in 1968. a monkey gazes at the ceiling. a lake and steep rocks. 15:00 . while at the back the gap in the broken fence seems an ideal escape rou te for th e animals wh en the locks finall y rust through. He managed to create an independent Albanian princedom and keep it free for 25 long years. where a guard hands out hardhats . Just outside the citadel is the old bazaar. or take one of the shuttle vans to the other hillside restaurants. Admission free. Getting to Kruja: A taxi will cost 2000 . 053 22 225. Rr. tel.13:00. The park is now the proud focus of the evening xhiro. woven rugs and traditional felt hats. However. It weathered many sieges. but this may change after the long-announced renovation of the park. the small streets immediately below the Ethnographic Museum are Kruja’s best. the Austrian-built Dajti Express cable car on the outskirts of Tirana is a fun ride. at the end of which you’ll find Tirana Zoo and a few enterprising car wash businesses using up the lake water. Considering the era in which it was made. Their sacrifice was long suppressed from the historical record. Across the field to the right is an anti-fascist monument.13:00. Presidenti George W.20:00). until you see signs marked Kalaje (fortress). and does regular daytrips (€30/25) to the area which include transport. which once served as the residence of King Zog. parking at the restaurant by the river. roughly hewn statue commemorates Fan Noli (1882 .19:00. twisting up through the forest and Kruja town. narrow and winding past high courtyard walls like they did 500 years ago. Albanians consider him not only the father of their nation. as well as traditional copper goods and clay utensils. From the local bar in Pelumbas village it’s a two-kilometre along a well-prepared path along the Erzen River canyon to the cave entrance. Reach the park by walking up the path to the west of the university building. QOpen 11:30 . Part of Tirana University's Faculty of Natural Sciences. +355 69 208 8138. Rinia Park in the city centre was a disgraceful mess of illegal constructions. mud and traffic.do have a perch. visit the Ballkoni Dajtit restaurant. a Bektashi temple building with impressive decorations. head for the restaurants at the upper end of the citadel. Near to the zoo. is touted as a good daytrip from the capital. Petrela Castle sits picturesquely on a steep slope overlooking a river. One is the well-tended cemetery for the British troops who died fighting the Germans in WWII. Skanderbeg Statue E/F-4. drive east along the road to Elbasan and turn off at the ‘theatre’ sign. with their powerdrills and tools on display. you’ll end up near Tirana Lake (romantically known by locals as ‘the artificial lake’). it's surprising how little concession the sculptor made to official socialist-realist style. Outdoor Albania (see travel agents) was instrumental in opening up this cave for visitors.14:00. Fist upraised. The bus costs 150 lek. Wander around and you’ll come across the old citadel hamam (baths. but Skanderbeg's legacy preserved the Albanian national identity throughout 500 years of Ottoman rule. In his spare time he translated Shakespeare and Cervantes into Albanian. Walk east uphill to find several intriguing memorials. bu t i t's a stepladder.supposedl y the proud symbol of Albania . visit the Shpella e Zeze (Black Cave) in Pelumbas for some fresh air. but also the man who saved all Europe from the Ottoman Empire. you’ll be delighted to hear there are no signs at all to Kruja until just before the citadel. The Black Cave was inhabited in prehistoric times.com. beautiful rural landscapes. to fish. Blv. surrounding it are walls from the Byzantine period. and AT some locals still think The Grand Park lake they can drive and park their cars on the pedestrian paths. trip away from the city.1965). a swish terrace café and a multi-level underground bowling alley. follow Rruga Hoxha Taksim east .bring a torch. Though usually skipped by most visitors. ending at the edge of Dajti picnic field near the top of the mountain. Swooping over pastures. bronze and iron ages. AROUND TOWN Parks & Gardens 4 222 52 87. admission 200 lek) which displays the beautiful interior of a traditional Albanian house around 1800. During the city’s cleanup. We've heard of plans to overhaul the zoo. you may be disappointed with the humble nature of this town. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional copper pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the rows of pillows that surround the Turkish tables of some restaurants. guiding and a traditional meal.when you see the sign indicating it’s 150 metres to the left you know it’s still about a kilometre. The wol f scatters at any approach to the bars. or to swim. Now used for official receptions (and with a military headquarters nearby). Q Open 09:00 . A taxi from the city centre to the lower station should cost about 500 lek. The tower in the centre dates back to 500 AD. If you’re driving. Founded in 1971. Educated at Harvard. The Palace of the Brigades. his sister Mamica lived here and defended the castle. The friendly caretaker will take you on a whirlwind English-language tour of the rooms.com January . along the road to Elbasan. if you’ve already been to Berat and Gjirokaster. Whisking you up to 1230m above sea level in under 15 minutes. Elbasanit and was named for the partisans who captured it in WWII. Follow the Shkodra road from Tirana turn right into Fushe Kruje (famous for the George Bush disappearing watch act). A mod- Kruja Kruja. it is off limits to the public. Nearby stand several grey stones listing the names of all German soldiers who died in Albania during WWII. This more than 3m tall. Rinia Park G-4. To the left of the citadel‘s main entrance is the Gjerg j Kastrioti Museum (200 lek. Noli was a writer and Orthodox bishop. Unknown Partisan Statue F-5. Albania was occupied by the Ottomans.not until 1478 (after Skanderbeg’s death) did the Ottomans succeed in capturing the citadel. laid out in a triangle.inyourpocket. his chin resting against the wall. A li ttle fur ther into the park along the pond. open 08:00 . it houses about 1400 species of plants. closed Mon). The park is unfor tunately not free of trash. Admission 50 lek. There you can hike in the lush forests. Walk west and you’ll soon reach the dam. Gjerg j Kastrioti (1405-68).22:00 (winter 08:00 . Kruja thus became a symbol of national resistance . built to honour the man otherwise known as Skanderbeg. +355 4 37 91 11/+355 69 230 22 15 (shuttle bus). The main attraction however is the fountain in front of Taiwan which in the evening fascinates hundreds of young and old onlookers with its lightshow. bu t th e finan cial challenges of th e insti tu tion are evident.yes. When you’ve had enough of dust. . Exhibits include 19th-century folk dress. Petrela Castle tel. Just up the hill are the tombs of the Frashëri brothers. Until a few years ago. it can easily be visited in the morning for some last minute shopping before you catch your flight. some of them buried at this site.com. The castle was used during Skanderbeg’s war against the Turks. charging forward with a rifle in his hand .38 WHAT TO SEE Tirana parks s troll s ou th of c entral Tirana. Swimming in the river is possible here. exactly 500 years after Skanderbeg's death. garbage and shady dealings.20:00. 47 km north of Tirana. After his death. Sami was a radical agitator for an independent Albanian republic. Tirana's botanical garden is a pleasant 15-hectare area on the slopes to the southwest of the centre. one street of quaint shops with windows full of antiques. featureless and clad wi th hospi tal tiles. Q Open 08:00 . which has some intriguing crumbling concrete platforms sticking out of it and is surrounded by pleasant parkland and a few restaurants. get out and see some of the impressive landscapes in the surrounding area. bu t there's been li ttle action till now. which was an observation and signalling post. Just down the hill is the excellent small Ethnographic Museum (tel. open 09:00 . the complex houses restaurants. The inmates are kept in a small block that is di vided into ten cells. fighting mad.18:00. now it’s a place for people to snooze a f ter lun ch tim e. one of Albania's most revered historical figures. paintings and exhibits (mostly replicas) presenting Skanderbeg’s struggle against the Ottomans. folk costumes. At one time. 39 Grand Park (Parku i Madh) K-5. On a clear day you can see all the way to Kruja. is the only historical figure whom all Albanians agree was a national hero. now converted to a church) and the lovely Dollma teqe. since Britain was considered an imperialist enemy. The bedrag gled golden eagles . Emperor Justinian fortified this place to defend the settlement of Dyrrachium (now Durrës). Dëshmorët e Kombit. Nicknamed Taiwan. Statues & Monuments Fan Noli Statue E-5. As Kruja is just 30 minutes from the airport. and a shrine for Albanians though less interesting for foreigners. The museum was built with a fake medieval façade in 1982 and houses copies of Skanderbeg’s sword and spiky helmet (the originals are in Vienna). Cable car going up Mount Dajti Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. the lamas don't know how good they have i t in their chalet housing. not only for sightseeing but also for souvenir-hunting. To reach Pelumbas village (in Ibë municipality). est statue of Skopje-born but ethnic Albanian Nënë Tereza or Mother Teresa stands in the southeast corner of the square named after her. A short Botanical gardens (Kopshti Botanik) . dajtiekspres@yahoo. despite its setting and shopping possibilities. Bush. Sheshi Skenderbej. Abdyl was leader of the Prizren League. silver filigree jewellery. representing about a third of the Albanian flora.3000 lek (negotiate this beforehand). the buildings were bulldozed and the result is this pleasant spot of green. thousands of the ci ty’s inhabi tan ts cam e h ere on holidays to play and picnic. This statue was erected to honor the many Albanian partisans who gave their lives fighting the fascists. 16:00 . The spidery white building that looks like it could be the lair of some James Bond villain is actually one of Tirana’s best attractions.com tirana. Only by the end of the 12th century was the citadel completed. Sheshi Fan Noli. Return tickets 500 lek. QOpen 09:00 .albanianair. Abdi Toptani. com.13:00. www.15:00. +355 4 225 12 77. FB = Bulgarian Airlines.17:00. +355 4 222 89 60. Blv. Minibuses (furgons) depart as soon as they’re full. LH = Lufthansa. Zogu I.com. Closed Sun. [email protected]:00. +355 42 38 19 48. Buses to Kosovo. tel. Zogu I. Luf thansa (LH) G-5.1 Qendra Tregtare Tirana. +355 4 223 51 62. Blv. tel.belleair. +355 68 322 90 07. Blv. Zhan D’Ark. Budget flights to Pristina in Kosovo. Rr. Closed Sun.12:00. Closed Sun. Galeria mall. 223 34 19. Drita E-4. Rogner Hotel Europapark. Flights to several European destinations. Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. lost &amp.17:00. tel. 39. www. Furgons heading southeast for Elbasan. Zogu I. Buses from the airport to the centre depart every hour between 08:00 and 19:00. Blv. and a small Adrion press shop. Aegean Airlines (A3) . Rr. fax +355 4 223 51 38. 044 614 814. Airport facilities include free wifi and an Adrion press shop (open 03:00-21:00) selling newspapers. bus or car. where you’ll also find most of the ticketing agencies. 150 lek for an hour. Blv. call a yellow Airport Express Taxi (ATE.com. See the timetable for approximate operating hours. Mine Peza 2. etc) leave from Sheshi Zogu i Zi or from Laprak. 044 68 38 78). tiranato@jat. A3 = Aegean. Flights to Istanbul. Blv. prices and departure points. Parking at the airport is free for 15 minutes.bg. 09:00 18:05 12:50 19:10 18:20 06:30 16:30 14:10 09:00 10:40 13:40 14:30 18:15 20:00 11:30 15:55 13:25 17:25 16:30 16:20 17:10 21:40 10:30 09:55 19:55 14:40 19:50 19:25 13:45 14:35 12:50 17:45 08:40 14:20 19:30 09:05 09:50 14:35 20:20 09:30 12:30 07:25 13:30 08:55 13:35 18:25 06:20 10:20 06:35 13:59 14:10 15:55 11:00 09:00 20:00 06:35 16:00 14:10 15:45 18:45 City AMSTERDAM (LV) ATHENS (OP) ATHENS (A3) ATHENS (A3) ATHENS (LV) BUDAPEST (MA) BUDAPEST (MA) FLORENCE (LZ) FLORENCE (LZ) FRANKFURT (LV) FRANKFURT (LV) FRANKFURT (LV) FRANKFURT (LV) GENOVA (LZ) ISTANBUL (LV) ISTANBUL (LV) ISTANBUL (TK) ISTANBUL (TK) LJUBJANA (JP) LONDON LGW (BA) LONDON LGW (BA) LONDON LGW (BA) LONDON STN (LV) MILAN (LV) MILAN (LV) MILAN (LZ) MILAN (LZ) MILAN (AZ) MILAN (AZ) MUNICH (LH) NAPLES (LZ) PARIS (LV) PRISTINA (LZ) PRISTINA (LZ) PRISTINA (LZ) PRISTINA (LV) PRISTINA (LV) PRISTINA (LV) PRISTINA (LV) PRISTINA (6Y) PRISTINA (6Y) ROME (AZ) ROME (AZ) ROME (LZ) ROME (LZ) ROME (LZ) ROME (LV) ROME (LV) SOFIA (FB) SOFIA (FB) STUTTGART (LZ) TURIN (LV) TURIN (LV) TURIN (LZ) TURIN (LZ) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) ZURICH (LZ) ZURICH (LV) ZURICH (LV) To Tirana Days –––––6– 1234567 1––––6– –2–45–7 ––3–5–7 ––3–5–7 1234567 1–3–5–– –––––6– –––––6– –2––––– –––4––– ––––––7 1–3––6– 123–5–– ––––––7 1–34––– –2––567 1234567 ––––––7 12–4––– –––––6– 1–3–5–7 –2–4––– ––––––7 1234–67 ––––5–– 1–3–5–– ––––––7 1234567 –––4––7 ––3–5–7 –––4––7 123–56– 1234567 –2––––– 1–––––– –––4––– ––––––7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–3–––– –2–4–67 ––––5–– 1–––––– ––3––6– 1–––––– –––4––– –––––6– 1–3–5–– ––––––7 –2––––– –––––6– –2–4–6– 1234567 1–––5–– –––––6– –––4––– Dep. Sat 08:30 . LZ = Belle Air. tel. Closed Sun. +355 4 222 350 00/+355 69 209 49 06. Buses Despite the importance of bus travel in Albania. tel.14:00. 069 209 89 08. GETTING AROUND Flight schedule From Tirana Days –––––6– 1234567 1––––6– –2–45–7 ––3–5–7 1––4–6– 1234567 1–3–5–– –––––6– –––––6– –2––––– –––4––– ––––––7 1–3––6– 123–5–– ––––––7 1–34––– –2––567 1234567 ––––––7 12–4––– –––––6– 1–3–5–7 –2–4––– ––––––7 1234–67 ––––5–– 1–3–5–– ––––––7 1234567 –––4––7 ––3–5–7 –––4––7 123–56– 1234567 –2––––– 1–––––– –––4––– –––––6– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–3–––– –2–4–67 ––––5–– 1–––––– ––3––6– –2––––– ––––5–– –––––6– 1–3–5–– ––––––7 –2––––– ––––––7 1–3–5–– 1234567 1–––5–– ––––5–– –––4––– Dep. www. 068 207 03 11) and pay 2000 lek. sometimes trawling through the streets to find more passengers to cram in. starting from various places in town. Sat 08:00 . Albania T-shirts and In Your Pocket city guides. www. but is also known as Rinas. and passing through is a pleasant experience. tel. Those south to Berat. www.jat.17:00.com. Most bus departures are between early morning and early afternoon.17:00. +355 4 227 25 40/+355 69 202 77 00. Pallatet e Shallvareve. open 07:00-23:00. 069 205 40 02) departs every hour between 07:00 and 19:00 from beside the National Museum on Skenderbeg Square. fax +355 4 223 45 78. except for a small room in the departures area. Centre. +355 4 223 49 02/+355 4 222 89 60. tel. tel. Flights to Rome. Adria Airways (JP) G-5.40 GETTING AROUND Arriving in Tirana is not as straightforward and smooth as it should be. +355 4 224 51 00/+355 4 225 33 42. west of the centre. Flights to London Gatwick. tel. dritatravel. jewellery and duty-free shops (www. Closed Sun. tel. Germanwings (4U) .June 2010 .olympic-airways. tel. Ded Gjon Luli. A trip to the airport usually takes 20 minutes. Sat 09:00 .germanwings. Budget flights to Pristina. Tirana Metropol E-4. QOpen 09:00 . QOpen 08:00 . Sat 09:00 . Rogner Europapark Hotel.com.tiranaairport. but we’re working on it. fax +355 4 227 25 39. Closed Sat. Rr. +355 4 227 26 66. +355 4 225 80 10. www. Flights to Athens. QOpen 08:30 . Flights to Budapest. Malev (MA) F-5. ba.adria-airways. fax +355 4 225 80 11. Zog I. International buses often depart from behind the National History Museum. Airline codes: JP = Adria Airways. Sat 08:30 . fax +355 4 222 89 61. but take risks in blind corners. Sat 09:00 . Durrësit 64/1.12:00. increasingly comfortable and with air-conditioning. found tel.com. +355 4 38 18 00. whether you take a taxi. tickets cost 250 lek and the trip takes under an hour. Interlines D-4. Abdi Toptani. Vodafone and Eagle both have shops selling SIM and recharge cards. tel. com. books. A taxi to the airport costs about €20. LV = Albanian Airlines. QOpen 08:30 16:00. Athens and Thessaloniki. +355 69 405 69 52/+355 69 405 69 53. Only the most popular cities also have connections in the late afternoon too. +355 4 222 50 63/+355 69 239 49 29. The small departures area has fashion. www. Bus transport is either in normal buses. Tirana has no bus station and few scheduled departures. tel.16:00. Smoking is banned in the terminal.13:00. Buses to Shkodra depart nearby. Dëshmorët e Kombit.al.13:00. The first bus agency to have a website and online booking. This schedule is valid until 27 March 2010. Blv. QOpen 08:30 .malev. +355 4 223 04 10. www. Gjirokastra and Saranda depart from Nëshërak and Sheshi 21 Djetori. Alitalia (AZ) H-5. tel. www. or 2500 lek at night.17:00.com. 09:45 14:40 08:55 14:00 18:30 23:10 13:10 15:00 09:50 11:30 14:40 15:40 19:25 21:00 12:30 16:55 09:05 18:45 13:15 09:30 10:20 14:45 11:15 10:45 20:45 15:30 20:50 14:55 09:15 10:25 13:40 18:30 16:30 15:10 10:30 09:40 10:05 15:10 06:55 15:10 18:00 10:00 22:00 10:00 14:40 19:45 07:30 11:30 17:30 21:10 15:50 16:55 12:00 10:00 21:00 22:15 10:50 15:50 16:30 19:30 Arr. Buses to Greece. +355 4 225 36 39/+355 69 284 72 01. The new access road and passenger terminal that were opened in 2007 have catapulted the airport into the 21st century. Flights to Munich. Pogradec and Korça will most likely depart from beside the Qemal Stafa stadium and trawl around on Rruga Elbasan. Turkish Airlines (TK) E-4. Sun.hu. Kukës. Sondor E-4.com/al. Sun 09:00 . 720 lek for a day and 3000 lek per week.turkishairlines. QOpen 08:30 . Buses to destinations in Macedonia. tel. tirana@ malev. Macedonia and Montenegro. Sun 09:00 . 11:45 15:05 09:10 16:15 19:10 00:30 14:30 16:30 11:20 14:00 17:10 18:10 21:45 22:50 13:00 17:25 09:50 17:30 14:20 13:30 14:20 18:45 15:30 12:45 22:45 17:20 22:40 16:45 11:05 12:10 15:10 21:15 17:20 16:00 11:20 10:30 11:15 16:00 07:45 15:40 18:30 11:25 23:25 11:30 16:10 21:00 09:00 13:00 18:40 22:15 17:50 18:55 14:00 11:50 22:50 23:55 12:25 17:50 18:30 21:30 41 Jat Airways (JU) E-3. MA = Malev .inyourpocket.com. +355 4 222 79 00. tel. various Italian cities and summer destinations in Turkey and Egypt. Rr. carton of cigarettes €21).21:00.lufthansa. keep in mind that as long as you are on the ground it’s going to be a bumpy ride. tel. +355 4 224 01 75. +355 4 225 18 66. www. Flights to Ljubljana.com January .alitalia. Closed Sun. www. Belle Air (LZ) Bulevardi Zogu I. QOpen 08:00 . British Airways (BA) . Buses to Durrës depart very regularly from beside the train station. OP = Olympic Air . Vlora. Torre Drin Centre. Sat. QOpen 08:00 . AZ = Alitalia.17:00. Flies to Athens. 6Y = Tafa Air. Veve Business Centre. +355 4 223 00 23.inyourpocket. Local agent: Meridiana Travel & Tours.com. +355 4 223 50 29. There’s a tourist information desk in the arrivals area only. TK = Turkish Airlines. Bulgaria Air (FB) E-3.com. +355 69 206 66 26. tel. from Rruga Karl Gega. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Pollogu Blv. 068 204 95 98. Sat 08:00 . QOpen 08:00 . Bajram Curri. Nr. Buses to Pristina. Peja office tel. austrian. com. Flights to Belgrade. Rr.albaniadutyfree. tel.com) is officially named Nënë Tereza or Mother Teresa airport. tel. Zogu I. 07:00 15:45 09:50 16:55 16:00 05:10 15:10 12:40 07:30 08:10 11:10 12:00 15:45 18:10 09:00 13:00 10:50 14:50 15:10 14:15 15:05 19:35 08:15 08:00 18:00 12:50 18:00 17:45 12:00 12:45 11:20 15:00 07:50 13:30 18:40 08:15 09:00 13:45 19:30 09:00 12:00 06:00 12:05 07:30 12:10 17:00 05:00 09:00 03:45 11:20 12:10 13:55 09:00 07:10 18:10 05:00 14:20 12:10 13:45 16:45 Arr.17:00. QOpen 09:00 . It’s a good idea to ask around for the exact departure locations before travel.com tirana. Palati 103 nr 2. Closed Sun. tel. Budget summertime flights to Cologne.tafaair. Buses to Kosovo (Pristina office tel. Sheshi Skenderbej. www.air. www. Ticketing by Albtours. tel. Those heading to the north (Shkodra. QOpen 08:00 . www. com. Closed Sun. or in minivans called furgons which may be a bit cheaper and faster. OS = Austrian Airlines. one traffic light further along the Durrës highway. The airport is 17km northwest of Tirana. so it’s all a bit of a Balkan mess. Torre Drin Airport & Airlines Tirana International Airport (TIA. www. Albanian Airlines (LV) E-3. Olympic Airways (OA) D-4. so it’s best to set off early. Once you’re here. Tirana International Hotel.17:00. but always check flight times before departure.13:00.com. it. www.16:30. Tafa Air (6Y) . Austrian Airlines (OS) H-5. Flights to Sofia. Flights to Vienna. Blv.com. BA = British Airways. ticketing@albanianair. The Rinas Express airport bus (tel. 7 hrs 1200 lek Nëshërak 09:30. Sh. Budget rental of Chevrolet.5 hrs 300 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium. twice hourly 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori 06:00-19:00. Sat 08:00 . A ticket costs 30 lek per ride regardless of distance. Rruga Elbasanit 06:00-17:00. Rogner Europapark Hotel. Avis operates a fleet of Opel and Chevrolet vehicles. Closed Sun. Kavajës 116.19:00. diesel 125 lek per litre. Also at the airport.inyourpocket.com.Tirana has a fleet of privately-run buses. Sat.com. avisa@avis. info@lrscenter. com. Also at the airport. www. Sat 08:00 . Small cars from €100 per weekend. Sun 09:00 . 14:00 4 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak 04:00.al. QOpen 08:00 . www. 05:15. +355 69 206 85 00).com. www. open 08:00 . Rr. Furgon (minibus) schedule From Tirana to BAJRAM CURRI BERAT DURRËS ELBASAN FIER GJIROKASTRA PESHKOPI POGRADEC KORCA KRUJA PERMET SARANDA First-last bus + frequency. Check all times before travelling. fax +355 4 224 65 11. QOpen 08:00 . www.14:00. com. fax +355 4 227 19 60. 22:00 SHKODRA 07:00-16:00.16:00.13:00. Durrësit 61. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 . Tirana Car Rentals (TCR) I-4. LRS Center Durrës highway. but these are often only manned on demand. km 2. Sun 08:00 .com.16:00. al.lrscenter.e-sixt. +355 4 225 50 28/+355 68 205 87 75. +355 4 223 50 11. 16:00. Sun 08:00 .hertz. one traffic light beyond Zogu I Zi 07:00-16:00 hourly 3 hrs 500 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium 07:00-16:00 hourly 4 hrs 600 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium 07:00. The days of dilapidated old state buses conking out in the middle of the road are over . 10:00. 068 20 55 807). Rr.com. Sat 08:00 . +355 4 222 78 88/+355 68 209 39 22. Durrësit 79. signs and general discipline makes driving in Tirana adventurous. QOpen 08:30 19:00. Lumani F-5. Make sure you have the agency helpline number and a good map before setting off. tel.al. europcar@abissnet. inform locally for more details.com . Sun 08:30 .17:00. Rr. Facebook fans got 10% off for rentals shorter than a week. Closed Sun. www. Also at Hotel Sheraton (tel.17:00.42 GETTING AROUND Car rental Lack of parking space. Sat.19:00. tel.noshi. marked on the map in this guide. The agencies have desks at the airport. Local car rental agency with offices in various cities. Public transport Tirana has a few bus lines. International bus schedule From Tirana To Tirana Departure Arrival City Dep. or times Duration Price Departs from: 06:00-14:00 6 hrs 1000 lek Zogu i Zi 06:30-18:00. 08:30. dipped liberally in advertising. Abdi Toptani.net. QOpen 08:00 . 12:00.avis. +355 4 240 03 00/+355 69 203 78 24. Sun 08:30 . reservations@noshi. change buses at Vlora. 26 63 89/068 20 55 806.europcar. Also at the airport (tel. [email protected]:00. but despite the apparent chaos traffic doesn’t really move very fast.16:00. open 08:30 . so inform them in advance. twice hourly 40 min 150 lek Train station 07:00-17:00 twice hourly 1.20:00.19:00. Tirana International Hotel. 15:00. 07:00. 11. tel. Noshi Rent a Car D/E-3. [email protected]. 4. +355 4 225 90 20. At time of writing.14:00) and the airport (tel. 18:00 45 min 150 lek Zogu i Zi 06:30. Rr. Hyundai and Mitsubishi cars. When parking. Land Rovers for rent. QOpen 08:00 . hertz@albaniaonline. tel.14:00. Sixt E-3. QOpen 08:00 . 55 79. Buses run every 6-15 minutes between 05:00 and 22:00. Closed Sun. For Himare and the Riviera coast. Opel. hourly 2 hrs 300 lek Train station / Zogu i ZI KUKES 06:00-16:00 2 hrs 8000 lek Zogu i Zi VLORA 05:30-16:30. tel. +355 69 208 Avis H-5. +355 4 224 05 11/+355 69 205 10 72. tel. to be paid to the conductor on board. twice hourly 3 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori Approximate times only.lumanienterprise. Arr. www. Renting a car costs from around €45 per day for the cheapest model. Days 15:30 06:30 ATHENS 08:00 20:00 1––456– 04:00 19:00 ATHENS 09:00 21:00 –23–––7 08:00 20:00 ATHENS 20:00 08:00 1234567 18:00 05:00 PEJA 06:00 17:00 1234567 18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 1234567 18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 1234567 18:00 06:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 1234567 08:00 19:00 THESSALONIKI 19:00 08:00 1234567 18:00 05:00 SKOPJE 18:00 05:00 1–3–5–– 21:00 05:00 TETOVO 21:00 05:00 1234567 Schedule correct at time of publishing. twice hourly 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori 05:00-18:30 4 hrs 800 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori 06:00-14:00 5 hrs 800 lek Laprak. Company Interlines Interlines Drita Sondor Sondor Monopol Drita Drita Sondor Sondor From Blv Zog I Blv Zog I Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Price (one way) €25 €25 €35 €20 €20 €20 €20 €25 €20 €20 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Abdyl Frasheri. Hertz E-4. www. Blv.com.al. Petrol costs about 130 lek per litre. Dëshmorët e Kombit. beware of Tirana’s new and effective tow-trucks. A Europcar E-5. Sheshi Skenderbeg.com.com. tel. www. P. Torre Drin/+355 68 409 58 75. The only central parking garage can be found below the Vesa Center on Rruga Abdyl Frashëri. Rr.19:00.18:30. so you’re told to pay 1000 lek rather than 100. you’ll get the right change. Sat 08:30 . raf tin g. Zogu I. the lek. Gulliver OK D-4./fax +355 4 222 71 21. TIA Tourist Information Point TIA. Online booking (in Albanian) possible. Albania Experience J-5. tel. See also their booking site w w w. Few drivers speak English. tel. Taxis to/from the airport for 2. Mine Peza 102.net. check all details in advance.500 lek between 21:00 and 07:00. activities are limited to snowshoeing and hiking.000 lek. car rental and tours.gov.com.8. Closed Sun. fax +355 4 225 33 42. Tickets can be bought just before departure. Tirana’s train station is a basic metal and concrete shed next to the dusty Durrës bus parking lot. Travel agents Tirana’s travel agents can arrange everything from plane tickets to hotel bookings. Runs the www. with Tirana In Your Pocket guides. Radio Taxi . or to call someone who can explain. Rr. A Albania Holidays Rr.albania-experience. net. paragliding and 4WD trips. Tirana Backpacker Hostel. Train station B-4. Inf o@outdooralbania. and even if you do put down ten times the amount necessary. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 222 76 26/+355 67 203 44 04 (airport). There’s no left luggage office. www. +355 4 223 56 88.44 GETTING AROUND Train schedule From Tirana To Tirana Dep.20:00. QOpen 08:00 . Kruja and other destinations. moun tain bikin g.com. our experience so far is that drivers do not have to be reminded to use them.com. City Dep. Arr. you’ll get sometimes get quoted amounts in old leks in shops. also runs an agency and the local tourism office in Korça. +355 4 225 10 94. ATEX (Airport Express Taxi) . Blv.albania-hotel. maps. Several companies now use metres and can print receipts. autobus) A është Iarg? majtas djathas ku jam? Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Berat. Sheshi Italia.al. www. travel-tirana. Day trips in the mountains near Tirana too. daytrips to Apolonia. In 1964 and 1991. bus) Is it far? left right where am I? avion traget aeroport veture. Rates start at 300 lek for the first 2km (sufficient for most city centre trips) and 95 lek/km after that (count on paying 500 lek for a ride to the outskirts). +355 4 24 44 44/+355 68 222 56 57. taking buses are faster and more comfortable. 72.20:00. QOpen 08:00 .com . tel. Magic Tours D-4.20:00. so it’s a good idea to write down the address.tirana-airport. albania-holidays. Tourist information In 2009. Travel agent with offices in Tirana’s city centre and airport. Zogu 1. and plane tickets./fax +355 4 223 54 98. Tirana Taxi .al. old Albanian habits in particular. Even though all the signs and price tags in shops are new lek.com. Rr. w w w. tel. Old habits . Durrës. Ded Gjo Luli. Travel terms aeroplane ferry airport car train bus station (train. +355 4 225 33 43. +355 4 223 24 24. Tourist Information Office (Zyra e Informacionit Turistik) E-4. and after 22:00. +355 68 212 55 75. www.gulliver-ok. com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. 80. Sami Frasheri. +355 4 223 34 19/+355 68 204 95 98.new leks Old habits die hard. Trains Albania’s railway network is basic and slow. Price 05:55 06:53 DURRES 06:10 07:10 70 lek 07:30 08:32 DURRES 08:45 09:46 70 lek 08:30 09:28 DURRES 09:50 10:49 70 lek 14:10 15:07 DURRES 13:00 14:01 70 lek DURRES 15:50 17:01 70 lek 14:45 15:42 16:15 17:12 DURRES 17:30 18:30 70 lek 20:00 20:57 DURRES 18:35 19:35 70 lek 05:55 09:38 ELBASAN 06:00 09:46 190 lek 14:10 17:55 ELBASAN 15:55 19:35 190 lek 05:55 12:32 POGRADEC 12:50 19:35 295 lek 13:15 16:42 SHKODER 05:55 09:21 145 lek 14:45 19:52 VLORE 05:40 10:49 250 lek Timetable and prices correct at time of publication. Arr. albtours@albaniaonline. Q Open 08:00 21:00. not all Albanian minds have made the transition.al. Near the Sky Tower. and also at Rr. Sheraton Hotel. makinë tren autobus stacion (tren. This is not to rip you off – it’s just an old habit that’s just as comfy as those awful slippers you wear at home. tel. A handy tourist information kiosk in the airport arrivals hall. tel. But still. The city’s tourist information centre is right behind the National Museum. Taxis Taxis are a useful form of transport in Tirana. they’re the only game in town. Take the currency. Tirana went from zero to two tourism information centres. In winter.com hotel booking website. though the run to Durrës is perfectly bearable. tel. ATHS E-3. 20. AE can also book top-end Tirana hotels at big discounts. www.17:00. kayakin g. Rr. Apt.com. tel. Zogu I.atex. Blv. tel. tel. Pall.19:00.outdooralbania. Tailor-made tours with activities such as trekking.19:00. Guided city tours. Albtours H-4. alexperience@albaniaonline. +355 4 222 33 13. providing answers to questions about Tirana and Albania. www. www. tel. or 2. Veve Center. Mine Peza 102. Unless you’re a train fan. tel. Closed Sun.com. +355 4 238 49 infotourism@tirana. [email protected]. Drop by to get information about Tirana and copies of Tirana In Your Pocket. Closed Sun. moun taineerin g. QOpen 08:30 . Also at Blv. Ismail Qemali 34/1./fax +355 4 227 20 55. Outdoor Albania H-5/6. a zero was cut from the currency and new banknotes and coins introduced to make the numbers easier to handle. Closed Sun. tel. Rr. QOpen 09:00 . magictours@albmail. tel.albaniantourism.inyourpocket. and has no services to neighbouring countries. Rr. Elbasanit 85./fax +355 4 222 89 87.com. Between 22:00 and 07:00 the flagfall is 350 lek. Veve Business Center. .... . Une jam nga... and many words on loan from Turkish. ju lutem Sa kushton? Hapur Mbyllur Hyrje Dalje Shtyj Terheq Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 50 100 1000 Days Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Months January February March April May June July August September October November December Time Now Later Today Tomorrow Yesterday zero një dy tre katër pesë gjashtë shtatë tetë nentë dhjetë njëzet pesëdhjetë njëqind njëmijë E Hënë E Martë E Mërkurë E Enjte E Premte E Shtunë E Dielë Janar Shkurt Mars Prill Maj Qershor Korrik Gusht Shtator Tetor Nëntor Dhjetor Tani Më vonë Sot Nesër Dje 1930s Italian-built ministries on Skanderbeg Square Tirana In Your Pocket tirana..inyourpocket..... and many Albanians in the south understand Greek. English is catching on fast.USA . There are distant links with Romanian..Gjermania Nuk kuptoj Nuk flas shqip Një biletë.46 LANGUAGE Albanian is an Indo-European language with a 36-letter alphabet..Germany I don’t understand I don’t speak Albanian A ticket. Jam. I’m from... I am. Si quheni? Quhem. An increasing number of Albanians speaks a foreign language: Italian is extremely widespread (thanks to satellite dishes and emigration).... like the country itself it is one of a kind. Pronunciation a as in father c as in pizza ç as in church dh as in that e as in set ë as in term gj as in dodge i as in machine j as in year II as in still nj as in union q as show r as in rope rr is a trilled r x as in judge Niceties & Necessities Yes No Good Please Thank you Sorry! Good morning Good day Hello Good night Good luck with your work! Cheers! All the best! Excuse me! How are you? Practicalities When? Where? Who? Why? What? I have.... Greek and Slavic. What’s your name? My name is. please How much does this cost? Signs Open Closed Entrance Exit Push Pull Po Jo Mirë Ju lutem Faleminderit Më vjen keq! Mirëmëngjes Mirdita ç’kemi Natën e mirë Punë e mbarë! Gëzuar! Gjithë të mirat! Më falni! Si jeni? Kur? Ku? Kush? Pse? Çfarë? Kam..Amerika ... ..UK ..Anglia ..com .. Upmarket glassfronted building with several chic boutiques. you're more likely to find bargains and groovy stuff there than in the malls. Rr. tel. check these shops in Tirana. Palace of Culture. (+355) 38 01 00. Cartoonland.21:30. Closed Sun.vesacenter. and colonial furniture. QOpen 09:00 .22:00. Elegant shoes. A free shuttle bus runs between the National Museum and Univers ever y 20-30 minutes. tel. Albania’s first proper and large mall will open in 2010. and without exception the staff is friendly and reasonably competent. Le Futur H-4.lefutur.20:30. tel. +355 4 227 43 56. +355 68 20 34 473. inside the QTU mall on the outskirts of town. +355 68 416 63 37. women and children. Byclass I-4. a supermarket. and entertainment. Hoxha Tahsim 1. Everything from desktop rocket launch installations to wallets made from South African licence plates.al.the complex is large. Rr. quality Cuban cigars. QOpen 09:00 . Closed Sun.albaniabook. +355 4 222 62 56. charity events and activities including yoga. Also on Rr. Opening in 2010. Expensive brand-name fashion for men. Sheshi Italia. Italian fashion at reasonable prices. and there's great variety. as not all international brands are represented yet. Rr. 09:00-22:00 in summer. bronze and silver souvenirs. Blv.eu.com. Abdyl Frashëri 5. A Sheraton Plaza J-5.tiranahash. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 227 44 70. SHOPPING Shopping centres Much to the delight of locals and foreigners alike. Ded Gjo Luli. tel. ceramic wares and antiques. More café than bookstore. www. +355 4 227 88 10. QOpen 09:00 .14:00. tel. alpost@icc. Closed Sun.20:30. +355 4 225 41 00. tel. QOpen 08:30 . Blue Fly G-3. Nino Vitali F/G-3. tel. Sheraton mall. In early 2006 the Galeria mall raised the standard and QTU hit back with a small new mall in the bllok area. bars and cafés in a pleasantly air-conditioned four-floor complex.even the fruit and veg. Sheshi Italia. 49 Pirro Souvenirs I-4. DIY Praktiker Durrës highway km4.20:00. Sami Frashëri. Sun 08:00 . there’s an informal Tirana expat dinner at King House. Rr. Also at (I-3) Rr.qtu-al. You may be surprised. Everybody welcome. and real Versace ties. tel. www. QOpen 08:00 . Closed Sun. tel. King Zog and Mother Teresa among others. the QTU shopping centre has a bar. Rr. Rr. Abdyl Frashëri (I-4) in the QTU City mall. Lleshi E-3. Bajram Curri. Sheshi Skënderbej. Rr. CityPark Tirana Tirana-Durrës highway.praktiker. including some on religious themes. Every Friday. QOpen 09:00 . QOpen 09:00 . and there's a range of deluxe smokers' accessories too. www. +355 4 223 27 68. between 3004. Sheraton Mall. QOpen 08:00 . Kavajës 20 and Rr. tel. Albanian flags. A large boutique with Italian Tod and Hogan shoes plus assorted accessories. QOpen 09:00 .21:00. Friend's Book House G-3. If you're looking for folk costumes. wood carvings. Albania's first large DIY market also stocks useful things for travellers. Aromë Indie G-3. a food court. Kedi J-5.com/site/twigtirana/ home for more information or email to twigboard@ gmail. a supermarket. Q Open 08:00 .com January . a ‘seven star’ hotel.com. a group of expats chooses a different restaurant to eat at. or just drinks for those who aren’t. A good array of women's and men's clothes.com Albapost F-4. Abdyl Frashëri 6.com. QOpen 09:00 . fax +355 4 223 21 33. Cohiba and Monte Cristo. electronics store and more. Q Open 09:00-21:00. The Rogner hotel lobby bar has foreign newspapers available for reading.al. Sheshi Italia. the collection here is mainly Albanian though some English titles can be found too. tel.20:00. Vaso Pasha 99. tel.adrionltd. tirana. Abdyl Frashëri. Blv. Flower shop J-5. where shop windows are full of jewelry. The launch of the QTU centre along the Durres highway in 2005 was a revolution in itself . +355 4 222 78 816. QTU (Qendra Tr eg tar e Univer s) TiranaDurrës highway. Tirana International Hotel. Quality Italian and Albanian wines.20:00. High prices and quality. +355 4 237 41 Supermarkets 4 227 01 74.inyourpocket. Vaso Pasha. Sheshi Italia. or old books.20:00. Rr. 16:00 . Closed Sun. Comptoir de Paris Sheshi Italia. Casa Italia Tirana-Durrës highway. Stephen Center. Pjetër Bogdani 32. QOpen 10:30 21:00. Rr. Also on Rr. QTU centre. tel. Near the corner with Rr. 18:00-21:30. tel. Closed Sat. All are welcome to drop by. tel. Estel E-3.e Durrësit. Rr.com. newspapers and magazines. km15. Rr. most are of Italian quality. dolls and bunker ashtrays at the southern end of Rr. restaurants. Zogu I. Felu H-4. Bajram Curri. +355 68 401 04 00.21:00. QOpen 08:30 . in both the main hall and departures. +355 4 227 17 49. they're cheap (around 30% less than in other European cities). Colourful. vases and glassware. www. Art Forever G/H-4. bowling and tea sessions. Libraria Albania H-3. QOpen 09:00 . jazz club.com. inevitably followed by relaxed to strenuous drinking and late lunch session at the Chicken Shack or elsewhere. Pranë Urë Kamëz.21:00. Çajupi. The city centre is small and you can easily walk everywhere. Italian fashion for men and women. +355 Souvenirs & Gifts The best souvenir shopping is north of Tirana in Kruja. but the selection isn't great so bring fodder from abroad if you want to read something specific while you're here. Shopping is still best in the established areas such as in the bllok district and along Rruga Myslym Shyri where you'll find many boutiques. www. men's felt hats.keyrings and T-shirts. small supermarket inside the Sheraton mall. The hotel gift shop has a good selection of newspapers. Flowers from Greece arrive three times a week. selling recent commemoratives.com. Rr. Sun 09:00 . In the alley next to the Da Shang Hai restaurant. Pierre Cardin E-4. Oriental gifts and art. QOpen 09:00 . Closed Sun. +355 4 226 30 30. plastic guns. Rr. Vesa Center. Adrion International Books E-4. +355 4 224 63 86. Traditional folk costumes from all over Albania. Puff away on your new purchase in style at the small whiskey bar. A convenient. For clothes the story is slightly different. There’s a supermarket on the ground floor. Elbasanit. Brands on sale include Habanos. QOpen 09:00 . Myslym Shyri 64. Albania’s largest shopping centre will have some 170 shops. QOpen 08:30 . Tirana In Your Pocket Elisse G-3. Myslym Shyri 80. 72. Sheshi Italia. food court.20:30. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 30. Q Open 09:00-14:30.al.com.com. Books Tirana has a number of shops selling English literature.20:00. tel. +355 48 Speciality shops La Casa del Habano J-5. and try. 86 05 12. Rr. Asim Vokshi. Rr. Vini & Food J-5.20:30. Tirana has been enriched with several malls or smaller shopping galleries over the past two years. tel. Italian fashion for both sexes. QOpen 10:00 . Firenze D-4. Rr. tirana. Rr. Tirana Dinner Club. tel. handknit vests. QOpen 09:00 .20:00. +355 4 223 53 53. quality Italian 'junior footwear'. Myslym Shyri. King House serves food for those who are hungry.21:00. Abdyl Frashëri. a skating rink. Albanian folk costumes. Blv. Rr. Every Wednesday. Galeria mall. Fashion Benetton G-5. tel.14:00.google. Galeria mall.18:00. QOpen 08:00 . Bajram Curri. Next to Samsung. has a good supermarket. West of town along the Durrës highway.22:00. km6. +355 4 224 04 41. Sheshi Skenderbej. Kavajës. dolls in folk dress. www. +355 69 204 96 54. +355 4 225 47 70. +355 4 222 12 82. Send an email to tiranadinner@gmail. Tirana Hash. Fashionable shoe boutique. spa and apartments. Tirana's largest supermarket.48 SHOPPING The ladies love Tirana. Myslym Shyri. Imported flowers and luxury bouquets.21:00. QOpen 08:30 . transport for the car-less is arranged on the spot.byclassonline. Near Rr.com to get on the mailing list. Tirana International Women’s Group. Rr. Myslym Shyri 31.14:00. a café. friendbookhouse@yahoo. Abdyl Frashëri. Join the TWIG ladies for their monthly meetings. Sheraton Plaza mall. books@ adrionltd. See www. tel. Also delivers flowers. A free shuttle bus runs regularly from the main square between 07:00 and 21:30. Corona E-4. Sheraton mall. +355 4 238 84 50.21:00.Z. km 6. +355 4 226 58 23. Garden Joy H-5/6. Vesa Center I-4. Perlat Rexhepi. antiques and knickknacks. underground parking and a free shuttle bus. there's also an ATM and a Gregory's Coffee outlet. Abdyl Frashëri 4. tel. Dozens of crazy novelty gifts. magazines and books on Albania.21:00. Sami Frashëri. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:00 . Euromax Tirana-Durrës highway. See http://sites. Rr. Near the corner with Blv. tel. as well as kids' clothing. Blv. If you don't have time to make the trek there. A supermarket chain that (incredibly) ships everything from Italy . Expat activities New expat arrivals and any other stray foreigners that find themselves wandering Tirana are welcome to mingle with Tirana’s small but active group of expats. Beside the turnoff to the airport. Closed Sun. on the first floor of the Vesa Center mall.com for more information.13:00. Elbasanit. Shoe boutique.22:00. +355 4 226 67 77.21:00. A. Every Saturday the family-friendly Tirana Hash (10-70 Albanians and expats) meets at 11:30 for a relaxed to strenuous walk or run somewhere near Tirana.inyourpocket. restaurant.19:00. www. tel.20:00. Books. pottery. and must-have mugs depicting Enver Hoxha. +355 4 222 55 87. Sun 09:00 . Kavajës. painting. rugs with national motifs. tel. QOpen 24 hrs. tel. QOpen 08:00 . There are also some kiosks selling Albania mugs.com. A Glamour I-4. Ded Gjo Luli. Durrësit. The owner learned flower arranging in Greece and does it well. Philatelic shop of the Albanian postal service. Reshit Çollaku. antique chests.citypark-al.21:00. the Galeria mall has 50 shops. and souvenirs too. There's a decent selection meats and cheeses. Rr.org. On the corner of Rruga Islam Alla. A home interior shop with imported pottery. tel. Flowers and ceramics. +355 68 202 26 84. International Book Shop E-6. +355 68 206 05 68. www. Five Senses I-4.kalimancaribe. +355 4 223 06 16.16:00. QOpen 08:30 . Il Cammino G-3.com. Natyra H-5/6. A handy 24-hour city-centre Euromax Express can be found at Rr. check out this one-man show. A large complex with various mid-range shop outlets. Sun 10:00 . The mall attached to the Sheraton hotel has a café. fax (+355) 380 101. QOpen 09:30 . Housed in the European Trade Centre building behind the pyramid.000 lek.20:00. from 19:30 till late. Barrikadave. Q Open 09:30 . Conad G-5. Rr. as well as wood. Closed Sat. King House Dinner Night. a good little supermarket and several upmarket shops. Galeria Mall G-5. Lots of magazines as well. QOpen 10:00 . Merkom E-3.20:00. +355 68 206 01 76. 16:00 . A local bookshop with a selection of English-language magazines and Albania-related books. Q Open 08:00 . Closed Sun. Bajram Curri. Rr. Foreign magazines and newspapers can be found at the Adrion shop or at their stands in the Xheko Imperial and Sheraton hotel (at the Albanian Experience travel agency office). The best selection of books on Albania (or on anything else) in English. Sun. tel. tel. QOpen 08:00 . The latest PC fashion. Good for colourful.20:00. QOpen 10:30 . www.21:00. tel. custom-made bouquets. The small QTU City mall can be found on Rr. A smoker's oasis inside the Sheraton Mall. Closed Sun. Especially shoe shopping is good. Rr. Sun 17:00 .14:00.21:00. Kont Urani. +35 69 217 73 05. tel. A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs. Rr. tel. Rreli-Erebara E-4. this is the only place in the country to buy.June 2010 . Also at the airport. Shops at Tirana's lovely chaotic market area Flowers 46. Kaktus I-4. but the city is actually a great shopping destination. Also at the airport.al. QOpen 08:00 . fax +355 4 223 34 17.al. Vodafone numbers with 069 and Eagle Mobile numbers with 067. Albania Online Rr. www.Société Générale Group Blv. Several bowling lanes on the two lower floors of the Taiwan complex. QOpen 08:30 . +355 4 228 00 00.16:00. QOpen 08:30 . 350 lek after 18:00.21:00. Tirana Bank Blv. www.com website. QOpen 08:30 . tel. www.al. +355 4 227 60 00.com.gr. Closed Sun.fedex. +355 4 225 87 55.procreditbank.com. Ismail Qemali 27. Call 12 for international directory assistance. Closed Sat.org. ProCredit Bank I-3. tel.net.com. tel.ups. Dervish Hima 1. DIRECTORY Public telephones Public phones are easily found. fax +355 4 225 72 94. www. Tirana Tower. Zhan D'Ark. If you don’t plan to talk away a whole card. PR and events. Kulla 2. National calls For calls outside Tirana. 50 unit cards cost 560 lek. 100 units 980 lek.com. www.17:00. Pall. Ded Gjo Luli 6. Closed Sun.bpopullore. Ada Net Rr. tel.tiranabank. Kati II. then the city code (Tirana’s is 4). tel. +355 4 225 09 55.org.com. Call 14 for domestic directory assistance. Global I-4. tel.org. Broadband internet. QOpen 24 hrs. From foreign representations to high-finance. You can easily purchase pre-paid SIM cards for around 600 lek at the providers’ shops. www.al. tel. +355 4 223 49 14. tel. FedEx F-6. restaurants and hotel lobbies such as the Rogner's. Top-Net H-4. Emporiki Bank Albania Rr. +355 48 810 132/+355 69 207 90 72. Rr.al. Vaso Pasha. QOpen 09:00 .15:00. info@blur-al. To call a mobile phone in Albania from abroad. Vodafone H-4. Q PLEBK Spare Time G-4. Bajram Curri.15:30.inyourpocket. National rates for pre-paid calls are between 30-55 lek per minute.com.al. dial 0.12:00. Zogu I. www. 200 units 1800 lek. "Perlat Rexhepi". +355 4 225 97 42.info@ socgen. Closed Sat.al. 1. the country code.com. Twin Towers. Sat 09:00 12:30.com. Godina Comfort. Edil al-it. expect to pay 100 lek per hour for internet access (and plenty of noise from little boys playing Counterstrike). New cards should be wrapped in clear plastic. Rr. Donika Kastrioti 4. Rr. info@albaniancourier. Closed Sun. tel.postashqiptare. Internet providers ABCOM Rr. 1 Tirana. +355 69 207 67 69. tel. Sat 08:30 . (08:00 . Eagle has gone from a dodgy start to great success within a [email protected]. tsan@ bkt. al. Telephone calls International calls Dial the international access number (00). tel. QOpen 09:00 15:00.16:00. Also at Rr. info@ abcom.tnt. Closed Sun. QOpen 09:00 . headoffice@emporiki. Rr. blur-al.al."Edil-al". tel.com. Ismail Qemali. Pall 10 katesh. QOpen 08:00 . tel.al. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. www. Albania Tel. VPN. www. www. Tirana Events Agency Sheshi Zogu i Zi. Closed Sat.com.al.net.com. Albanian Courier Tirana-Durrës highway. +355 4 227 85 00. +355 4 223 39 32. Nr.17:00./fax +355 4 226 76 81.albaniaonline. hosting. Sun. 51 Express mail The safest though not the cheapest way to send valuable or urgent items. Pall. It's also available free at the airport. Surf for 80 lek per hour. +355 4 222 45 40. You pay 250 lek per person per game. www. albania@alpha. Rr. Closed Sun. www. Find more listings on the tirana. info@raiffeisen. tel. Intesa Sanpaolo Bank Rr.17:00. Closed Sun.al. fax +355 4 222 14 48.eaglemobile. Kati 1. Ismail Qemali 32/1.al. fax +355 4 225 11 33. +355 4 225 60 01. Perlat Rexhepi.al.al. www.com. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Kompleksi Green Park. +355 4 228 32 01/+355 69 222 01 11. Blv. +355 4 223 34 96. e Trebickës. Vaso Pasha.emporiki. ilirjan@icc. Rr. Calling Albania from abroad Dial the country code (355). tel. Conferences. Sami Frasheri.dhl. DHL E-4.al. Zyra 1./ fax +355 4 224 75 33. Closed Sat. Banks Alpha Credit Bank Rr. www. +355 4 228 04 42. e Kavajës 59. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.abissnet. office@icebergcommunication. Publicity. TNT E-4. +355 4 225 63 06. Rr. +355 4 225 16 33. Basement internet café with helpful staff.inyourpocket. tel. info@tiranaeventsagency. fax +355 4 224 75 77. www.icebergcommunication. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 5. Q Open 08:00 . you’ll need ID and a local address (which can be that of your hotel).al. Closed Sat.com Post rates Postal rates for postcards/letters (under 20gr) are: Albania 20 lek Europe 40 lek Elsewhere 60 lek Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. People on the street also sell cards. info@intesasanpaolobank. +355 4 222 62 82.al.21:00. Kulla 1.al. National Bank of Greece Rr e Durresit. fax +355 4 225 09 56. tel. AMC numbers start with 068. fax +355 4 223 36 13. e Kavajes. QOpen 08:30 .gr. Pall. com. QOpen 08:30 .ogilvyal. Closed Sun. Rr. BKT (Banka Kombetare Tregtare) Bul. Eagle Mobile H-4. and is challenging its rival’s prices. icebergcommunication. tel. the area code and the subscriber’s number. Sat 08:30 . Çameria.al. +355 4 227 50 00. Teuta. bp. a restaurant. al. fax +355 4 225 97 43. Local calls: Tirana numbers have seven digits.19:00. Rr. wifi. www. Ogilvy H-4. tel. com. Sky Tower. all starting with a 2 or a 3. +355 68 406 69 00. beware that you’ll likely be paying more.18:00. Advertising. nbgalbania@icc-al. +355 4 223 34 41. Shk.alphabank. fax +355 4 223 54 89. 55/1.14:00. events and other business services.com.raiffeisen.17:00.nbg. fax +355 4 224 09 95. +355 4 235 79 76. Raiffeisen Bank Blv.bkt. Q Open 24hrs. bumper cars and bouncy castles. www.15:30.com. Pall. Rr. tel.13:00 for parcels). Albanian telephone codes Berat 32 Kuçova Durrës 52 Kukës Elbasan 54 Laç Fier 34 Lezha Gjirokastra 84 Librazhdi Kavaja 554 Lushnjë Korça 82 Peqin Kruja 511 Përmet 33 24 30 36 353 35 512 813 Peshkopi Pogradec Saranda Shijak Shkodra Tepelena Tirana Vlora 373 832 85 571 22 814 4 47 B E YO N D C O M M U N I C AT I O N Country codes Albania Australia Austria Belarus Belgium Bulgaria Croatia Czech Rep.June 2010 . QOpen 08:00 . tel. UPS H-4. ETC. tel. www. Sun.com. Sun.abcom. fax +355 4 225 36 30. www. +355 4 450 01 39. fax +355 4 224 87 62. www. tel. tel.adanet. An entertainment centre along the road to Elbasan with UV-lit bowling. Rr. Kati 9. PR & Events Iceberg Communications I-4. marketing. AMC (Albanian Mobile Communications) G/H-4.com tirana. tiranaeventsagency. info@procreditbank. fax +355 4 228 04 41. the city code and the subscriber’s number.com. Recharge cards are widely available across the country. fax +355 4 225 60 02.com www. www. www. telephone cards are available at post offices. dial 355. tel. Banka Popullore .inyourpocket.intesasanpaolobank. At the southern end of the street. www.com. e-mail solutions. Perlat Rexhepi 13.amc.&Fax: +355 4 2267681 Mob: +355 69 20 62050 contact@icebergcommunication. Sat 09:00 . prepaid customers yet have to notice lower prices though. Taiwan. then drop the 0 and dial 38. Rr. Bowling Blur (Qendra Argetuese Blur) Lunder. Zhan D'Ark. Him Kolli. www. QOpen 09:00 . www.com January . fax +355 4 227 12 76. Internet cafés Free wifi is increasingly common in city-centre cafés. +355 67 219 03 39. QOpen 09:00 .eu. In the internet cafés listed below. Mobile phones Three rather pricey providers are active in Albania. you can rent one from the ‘businessmen’ near the phone boxes for about 15-20 lek per unit. Mine Peza 2. Sat 08:00 . www. com. Abissnet Rr. Closed Sat. Sun.15:00. +355 4 222 78 12.12:00. Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany Greece 355 61 43 375 32 359 385 420 45 372 358 33 49 30 Hungary Ireland Israel Italy Japan Kosovo Latvia Lithuania Moldova Montenegro Netherlands Norway Poland Portugal 36 353 972 39 81 381 371 370 373 382 31 47 48 351 Romania Russia Serbia Slovakia Slovenia Spain Sweden Switzerland Turkey UK Ukraine USA 40 7 381 421 386 34 46 41 90 44 380 1 ICEBERG COMMUNICATION Rr.50 MAIL & PHONES Post Central Post office F-4. Rr. Myslim Shyri 6 and at the airport.com.al.al. [email protected]. from dentists to American libraries: the Tirana In Your Pocket directory is your one stop shop for names and numbers.20:00. +355 4 225 11 22. G-Kam Center. data transmission.com. QOpen 08:00 .al. tel. fax +355 4 224 79 12. tel. tel. digital cable TV and telephony services.13:00. +355 4 225 32 03. Sun. aloperations@ unitrans. nfo@ogilvyal. tel. fedex@icc-al. QOpen 08:30 . Sun. Salloni Mazda. tel.net. Ap. Open 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Closed Sat.al. +355 4 223 40 04/+355 4 223 21 17.Pallati 3.at. www. www.20:00.com. Dervishi F-1. Sun. Rr. The NRC is the one-stop-shop for business registrations in Albania. tel.16:30. copy machines. software. Closed Sat. fax +355 4 223 21 59.20:00. Frederik Shiroka 3.net. Sat.13:00.14:00. +355 4 227 48 55. +355 4 225 11 80. tel.12:00.13:30. Nikolla Tupe 1.gov. +355 4 Embassies Many of Tirana's embassies and consulates can be found near Rruga Skenderbeg. Orthodox Clinic Rr. American Hospital (Spitali Amerikan) Laprake.13:30. QOpen 10:00 . Closed Sun. www.12:00. fax +355 4 223 22 72. www. Closed Sun.16:30. Computers Computer & Copier System (CCS) I-3. Closed Sun. QOpen 09:00 . Skenderbej 12.18:00. Luigi Monti Clinic E-3. QOpen 08:30 . +355 4 222 83 90.15:00.13:00. Croatia F-5. Closed Sat. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:00 . fax Dentists In Albanian.cci. Emergency numbers: Police 129. and in the area just east of the stadium. www. Closed Sun. Rr. Thu 09:00 . Sells PCs. QOpen 08:30 . Closed Sat. Rr.com. Closed Sun. service provider. Fri 08:30 . ABC Clinic D-5. tel. National Registration Centre (Qendra Kombëtare e Regjistrimit) Rr. Closed Sat. consulting.al. Sat 08:00 . Infosoft Systems F-5.gov.16:00. Rr. Fri 08:30 .Sami Frasheri.20:00. Irfan Tomini. tel. com. tirana@emassy. Easy. +355 4 232 07 72/+355 69 406 60 00. tel. www. tel.22:00. Sun. +355 4 223 41 05/+355 68 260 04 05. 3. tel. Sun.al. +355 4 223 02 83. +355 4 225 90 04. +355 68 385 95 50. QOpen 09:00 . www. Closed Sun. Dibrës). QOpen 09:00 . fax +355 4 223 55 77. Rr.inyourpocket. +355 4 223 31 55.al. Who wouldn't like their dental work done by Martians? Behind the Central Bank building. The power that helps the future grow Dry cleaners 224 66 50/+355 68 224 30 51. tel. tel. Blloku Vasil Shanto. Closed Sat. QOpen 08:00 . auditing and other business services. A new and modern hospital along the Durrës highway. Rr.com. Sun. A networking organisation and business club for professionals. +355 4 234 10 20. Training. American Chamber of Commerce H-4. fax +355 4 22719 60. tel. Fast service. British Chamber of Commerce & Industry Blv. fax +355 4 223 22 95. English-speaking clinic.13:00. tirana. Rr.13:30. Gjon Pali II. info@ cmsalbania.com. www. fax +355 4 222 79 97. www.20:00. Closed Sat. +355 4 224 00 28. 3.cmsalbania. go to the American Hospital or to the Civilian Hospital (northeast of the centre on Rr. tel. 11/1. tel. tirana-ob@bmeia. Skenderbej 57.17:00. Rr. Family planning clinic providing safe. +355 4 223 30 22. Fast Clean D-4. Sun. QOpen 08:00 . egyemb@albaniaonline. UFO Clinic F-2. For emergencies. QOpen 09:00 . Tue.20:00. Fire 128 Tirana In Your Pocket Austria E/F-2. chinaemb_al@mfa. DSF Medical Centre Rr.abcci.gov. with international staff and a good English-language website. Rr. fax +355 4 224 16 87. fax +355 4 223 11 25.org. Kavajës. Rr. 16:00 . Abdyl Topani. +355 4 222 39 06. fax +355 4 228 06 30. Marie Stopes Clinic Rr. info@ccs-albania. Kavajës 6. 16:00 . Albanian Business Network Rr. Closed Sun. Sun.com.gv. Q Open 09:00 .com. Rr. [email protected] . Myslym Shyri. Torre Drin centre. Thu. tel. Sat 08:00 .14:00. software and hardware. 16:00 . good prices. Rr. tel. Petro Nini Luarasi 58. fax +355 4 223 3140. Skenderbej 10. The best dry-cleaning in Tirana.qkr. tel. tiaamb@um. Sun.com.16:00. Kati 4. tel. ambtirana. +355 4 224 10 18.com.cz/tirana. info@qkr. croembassy@ albaniaonline. 4.13:00/ 15:00-19:00. tel. Kavajës 120. Dësh- Hospitals & Clinics Clinics do not usually take patients outside office hours. businesses and investors interested in Albania.com. Gjerg ji Centre. Muhamet Gjollesha. Egypt E-2. China E-2. Closed Tue. office@abcalbania. Hardware.13:00. www.dk.com. executive search.al. Sat 08:00 . Near Albanian Telecom. tel.19:00. Below the ProCredit Bank. abcalbania. +355 4 225 56 +355 4 225 55 32. Dibres 159. Sun. 'dental clinic' is 'klinika dentare'. bgemb-alb@interalb. Tef ta Tashko Koço 10.com.cz. Sky Tower 11/3. QOpen 08:00 . www. www. fax +355 4 223 05 78. Christian-run. tel. fax +355 4 237 48 04.52 DIRECTORY Business services 55/+355 4 225 76 05.mzv. Sat 08:00 . Czech Republic E-2. Part of the Catholic Diagnostic Center.al. Chambers of Commerce morët e 4 Shkurtit. tel. fax +355 4 237 98 85. Rr. Tirana Centre G-3. +355 4 225 74 46/+355 4 223 15 64. Tirana Chamber of Commerce & Industry E-3.al-bn. +355 4 223 27 99.com. mariestopesalbania. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 . tel.unixkm. The opening times listed here refer to the working hours of the visa/visitor departments.5-1.spitaliamerikan. Sulejman Delvina.13:30/ 15:00-19:00.org.cn.18:00. infosoftgroup. Qemal Stafa 260. QOpen 08:00 . Q Open 08:30 . fax +355 4 223 53 50. comprehensive reproductive healthcare and education in a country where contraception and abortion were illegal until 1991. QOpen 08:00 .14:00.19:00. klinikaorthodhokse@yahoo. P. Sat 07:30 .org. tel.14:00. fax +355 4 223 31 59. Closed Sun.al. Komuna e Parisit. tel. Now floss. Shk.16:00. ACMS (Albanian Center for Management Services) H-5. It's highly advisable to phone in advance to check the opening times or to make an appointment. info@amcham. +355 4 223 74 14. QOpen 08:30 . [email protected]. Rr.12:00. Ledismile Dental Clinic Rr. Blv. Q Open 08:00 . +355 4 225 97 79.com. Sat 08:00 .um. QOpen 07:30 . +355 4 225 00 66. Sat 08:00 . +355 4 236 09 25/+355 4 238 22 10. +355 4 235 75 35. Ap. +355 4 228 06 00. tel. Rr. Sami Frashëri. QOpen 08:30 . www. Closed Sat.ccs-albania. Ismail Qemali. Murat Toptani. Bulgaria E-2. +355 4 223 23 85. Irfan Tomini Nr.com. Denmark H/I-4. Sun. contact@al-bn. Rr.dk. QOpen 08:30 17:00. tel. Shk 7.mzv. Skenderbej 1. fax +355 4 223 29 90.amcham. Closed Sat. Rr.net. Rr. Pastrim Kimik S&M I-3. ledismile@yahoo. 2. www. fco. www. +355 4 223 49 73.14:30. +355 4 227 46 44. Luig j Gurakuqi 31/1. +355 4 238 03 50. Sun. Tre Vellezrit Kondi. www. Memorial International School Rr. Consulates in Gjirokastra and Korça. +355 4 236 52 39.eda. Sun. al. Closed Sat. www. QOpen 08:30 . Pall.ambtirana. Serbia H-4. tel. Sat. tir@minbuza. QOpen 10:00 . Sun. tel. segreteriambasciata.gov. Sun. www. fax +355 4 227 49 00. www. tel. Skenderbej 16. 1.net. www.admin. Durrësit 123. QOpen 09:30 . info@kalo-attorneys. Q Open 09:00-13:00. Rr.12:00.mfa. Wed./fax +355 4 223 08 80. fax +355 4 224 76 97. Governmental organisations Albania's governmental organisations. info@mistedu. Mustafa Matohiti 20.de. Skenderbej 8. fax +355 4 223 33 64. Kavajës 116.al. QOpen 09:00 . Switzerland H-6.al. United Kingdom E-2. Zhan D'Ark 3. tel. Wed.org. Sun. Zog I. www.15:00. Closed Sat. fax +355 4 234 77 67. fax +355 4 223 25 14. Sun.com.gr.fco.com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.16:00-19:00. Germany E-2. QOpen 08.hu. tel. www.tirana@ fco. Rr. Closed Sat. +355 4 224 08 28. QOpen 08:00 . tel. Sun. Themistokli Germenji 1. +355 4 225 28 86.mfa. roemb@adanet. info@albinvest. Insurance companies Insig Rr. Sun. Sun.tirana@esteri. ambafrance.com.org.ambafrance-al. fax +355 4 225 82 53. fax +355 4 238 06 60. +355 4 225 68 12.54 DIRECTORY fax +355 4 223 44 42. Fri 08:00 . Rr. turkemb@atnet. Rr.instat. Hungary E-2. tel.com.gov. fax +355 4 222 23 41.16:00. QOpen 09:00 .com. [email protected] Parisit.yu. fax +355 4 225 10 55. Rr. Rr. Closed Sat. Sun.13:00. Elbasanit 65. Sun.tr. Sweden H-6.16:30. tel. Deloitte F-5. tel.al.tr@adanet. tel. Qemal Stafa 184. [email protected]. +355 4 225 60 71. Asim Zeneli 10. www. fax +355 4 225 02 20.uk. tel. www. Eurocol Center. info@sigal. fax +355 4 222 47 27. +355 4 238 06 50. marrja@insig. Lincoln Center H-4. Qendra e Businessit G-KAM. Rr. +3554 4 223 09 09. QOpen 08:00 . Sun. tel. fax +355 4 227 79 90. fax +355 4 223 55 34. +355 4 227 79 20.16:00.hu/emb/tirana. Holy See (Vatican) D-4. Sun.16:00.al. KESH Rr. +355 4 223 42 50. tel. fax +355 4 222 99 82. Fri 09:00 . Lawyers & Consultants Boga & Associates Rr. Closed Sat. Albanian Development Fund Rr.16:30.com. +355 4 227 45 05. Rr.al. Dëshmorët e Kombit.ch/tirana. QOpen . QOpen 08:00 . Skenderbej 14. Gjon Pali 2. fax +355 4 222 53 83. diplo. +355 4 223 22 38.com. Rr. Sat 09:00 . Closed Sat. +355 4 223 55 97.11:00.15. Closed Sat. Iran H-5. Tre Vellezrit Kondi. Closed Mon. Closed Sat.inyourpocket. Rr.com/al. emb. Donika Kastrioti 9/1. Sun.al. com. +355 4 222 24 11. Sun. tel.tia@kum. Sun. Consulates in Vlora and Shkodra. tel. sigma-al. Sun. [email protected]:00. +355 4 227 59 00. [email protected]@mfa. Ecole Viktor Hygo Rr. Sun.lincoln. www.sigal.com. QOpen 09:00 . www. Skenderbej 43.mistedu. polemb@albaniaonline. Rr.admin. rusemb@albmail. Rr.al. Saudi Arabia D-3. fax +355 4 223 41 80. tel. Green Park. Poland D-2.org. ch. Sami Frashëri 10. Publishes a yearly report called Albania in Figures (Shqipëria në Shifra). +355 4 223 35 16. al-office@ kpmg. +355 4 225 97 29.gov. Kavajës 116. +355 4 223 73 79. tel. Shallvareve. +355 4 227 45 24.12:00. +355 4 225 10 50. al. fax +355 4 223 22 22.usembassy. mission.16.net. fax +355 4 225 60 72. QOpen 08:00 . tel. www. www.net. Closed Sat. Zayed Business Center.albinvest.al.15 . QOpen 09:00 . QOpen 08:00 . Closed Sat. Fri 08:00-12:00.esteri. +355 4 224 72 85.11:30. Rr. Italy H-5. it. se. Closed Sat. swedishoffice. QOpen 08:00 . www. Visits by appointment only. Rr. Rr.bogalaw.00. fax +355 4 223 27 23. Romania H-5.17:00. Sun.16:30. Durrësit 13. Sun. National electricity corporation. Albanian for foreigners as well as English. www. [email protected]. Sigal Blv.16. tir. Elbasanit 81. tel. fax +355 4 223 48 85. Spain D-2.it. Kalo & Associates E-3.org. Albinvest Blv. embasaudarab@albaniaonline. ambatira@icc-al. tel. Rr. Greece E/F-2. +355 4 Language courses International Language Centre D-5. Twin Tower 1. +355 4 223 49 73. Rr.al. +355 4 223 20 91.gov. Fri. fax +355 4 223 20 01. tel. QOpen 09:00 .mfa. fax +355 4 223 20 46. fax +355 4 223 48 89. tirana@mfa. +355 4 225 48 35. Closed Sat.gov. tel. greekembassy.net.ecole-vhugo. be. tel.com. fax +355 4 223 20 89. www. enquiries. Spanish and computer courses.interalbanian. Tirana International School (TIS) Rr. Rr. +355 4 223 61 41.al. QOpen 08:00 .com.org. Open Mon. Sat. 14:3017:00. InterAlbanian I-3. Closed Sat.org. www. tel. Closed Sat. www. ilc@albaniaonline. Thu.gov.13:00.16:30. fax +355 4 224 76 97.gov.14:00. www. +355 4 225 34 07/8. fax +355 4 222 83 00.20:[email protected]. Closed Sat. Inside Enver Hoxha's old vila. Rr. fax +355 4 223 34 97. QOpen 08:00 . www. Closed Sat. Murat Toptani. tel.uk. Gjergj Fishta.kesh.mfa.com. adf@ albaniandf. Closed Sat. +355 4 227 49 60. Turkey I-6. Sigma Rr. tel. [email protected]:00. Rr. Closed Tue. German. No. Closed Sat.deloitte. QOpen 10:00 . Russia H-5. QOpen 08.17:00. tel.com.Dibres. fax +355 4 225 60 46. tel. tel. tel. Kavajës. Albanian lessons for beginners to advanced students. tel. Closed Sat. al.kalo-attorneys. +355 4 223 41 90. Asim Zeneli 5. gremb. tel. Sun. Institute of Statistics Blv.nl. +355 4 222 76 98. www.org/alb.14:00. 92. tirana@qsi. qsiweb. tel.POB 1714. tel. KPMG H-4. fax +355 4 223 41 40. Q Open 08:00 16:30. Skenderbeg 12.com. International schools 237 17 25/+355 69 20 61 677. Pjeter Budi 76. tirana. Nr. gov. Frederik Shiroka 3.com. Netherlands H-5. Macedonia F-2.18:00. uk. fax +355 4 223 04 09. [email protected]. Skënderbej 12.16:30. fax +355 4 222 54 11. Vasil Shanto. United States I-6. gov.00 . tel. Elbasanit 103. QOpen 08:30 .tirana.org. Rr. Closed Sat.al. www. QOpen 08:00 . tel. +355 4 224 83 06. +355 4 223 35 32.org. Closed Tue. United Kingdom Rr. France E-2. Rr. www. tirana.tirana. Rr. Sun.15:00. http://tirana. Sulejman Delvina.albaniandf. Sun. tel.mk. Fri 08:00 . Thu.diplo. Sun. Rr. nl/tir. Closed Sat.ukinalbania.es. Durrësit.com.gov. +355 4 223 48 88. info@lincoln. QOpen 14:00 . +355 4 225 82 54. QOpen 08:30 . www.com Tirana In Your Pocket . Blv.gov. www. Rr. +355 4 225 60 40. Krehëri i artë i Edlirës G-6. [email protected]. Abdi Toptani.org. www.europa. info@km.. +355 4 222 49 27/+355 4 69 247 62 71. Professional ladies and gents salon with ammonia-free hair colouring. www. gtz-albanien@gtz. tel.gov. +355 4 227 88 20.velurspa./ fax +355 4 224 71 55.org. tel.keshilliministrave. Skënderbeg 21/1. Sami Frashëri. hydrotherapy. fax +355 4 223 45 60. acupuncture and herbal baths (15 mins 500 lek). Prime Minister's Office Blv.500 lek per hour. www. Closed Sun. tel.de. +355 4 223 31 22.gov. www. ketrin.19:00. +355 4 222 25 50/+355 69 203 29 00. Qemal Stafa. +355 4 223 04 14. Sheraton Hotel. Dëshmorët e Kombit.al. tirana.gov.ec. Rr. www.13:00. QOpen 08:00 . Gjerg j Fishta.osce. +355 4 228 04 00. Ministries Ministry of Economy. keep-fit) from 2. Men's hairdresser. and beauty treatments for men and women.minfin. foot.org/albania.al. Rr. www.com.ebrd. hair salon. tirana@ tonucci. tel. Torre Drini.mfa. Metropol Center. Gjerg j Fishta 6.borova@yahoo. minister@minfin. +355 4 225 58 00. tel. Rr. www.gov. UNDP (United Nations Development Program) Rr. Abdi Toptani. OSCE (Organisation for Security and Cooperation in Europe) Sheshi Italia. 17th floor. www.al. Ministry of Foreign Affairs Blv. +355 4 222 27 82. com. Closed Sun. tel.tbi-al. ardian. +355 4 222 63 07. +355 4 223 07 22/+355 68 206 16 00. Abdyl Frashëri 5. +355 4 222 66 29. www.snvbalkans. +355 4 225 65 61. Closed Sun.de.gov. Velur Spa G-3. fax +355 4 236 20 84. Papa Gjon Pali II. TBI Law Firm D-4. Dëshmorët e Kombit 4. tel. fax +355 4 223 34 97. Da Shanghai Health Centre I-3. ABA Business Center. Mihal Grameno. delegation-albania@ ec. fax +355 4 225 07 13. Perlat Rexhepi 16/6.europa. Rr. QOpen 09:00 . Rr. www.22:00. Pall 2. +355 4 225 93 88. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1. tel. fax +355 4 225 58 01.gov. Tonucci & Partners H-4. info@tia. www. Closed Sun. fax +355 4 223 07 52.al. tel. Perlat Rexhepi.tonucci. Genci C-5. facials. International organisations Albania's non-governmental and international organisations. QOpen 10:00 .com.gov. 4 223 28 98. gov. Ministry of Finance Blv. QOpen 11:00 .com. Vesa Center./fax +355 4 222 89 62. manicure/pedicure. Various kinds of massage (therapeutic. balkans@snvworld. Shk 9. There's a hamam (Turkish bath) and you can undergo massage. GTZ (German Projects Office) Rr.moi.al. www. Blv. herbs and even chocolate. Rr. various therapies.al. Ministry of Education and Science Rr. The 'technogym' offers workouts Ardi Hair Fashion H-3. Torre Drini.com . Dëshmorët e Kombit 2. fax +355 4 223 58 56. waxing. fax +3554 223 48 18. Ministry of Justice Blv. as well as acupuncture and herb treatments. Gym subscriptions from €200/month.com. +355 4 226 76 54.delalb. fax +355 4 222 84 94. IMF (International Monetary Fund) Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit. fax +355 4 223 07 47.al.undp. Vaso Pasha 7. tel. Knowledgeable English-speaking staff available. www. tel. A smart 'Spa & Relax' centre on the lower floor of the Metropol building.gov.eu. fax +355 4 228 04 01. mail@justice. European Commision Delegation Rr. www. 15:30-21:30. tel. massage.it. Elbasanit. Chinese doctors perform therapeutic foot (45 mins 1500 lek) and body (60 mins 3. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 35. Durrësit 23. Twin Tower 1. +355 4 222 83 20.al. and skin treatments with Thai mud.al. com. look for the 'Chinese massage' sign.it. EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and Development) Rr. Ministry of Interior Affairs Sheshi Skenderbej 3. www.21:00. Rr. 440.soros. +355 4 226 74 57.org. tel. spa@vesacenter. tel.topciu@tbi-al. Municipality of Tirana Blv. Rr. A large spa centre on the top floor of the Vesa Center. Ap 70. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Women's hairdresser. pm-al@osce. Veve Business Center. +355 4 236 40 90. QOpen 09:00 .56 DIRECTORY tel. [email protected]. Soros Foundation (NOSA) Rr. mash. tel. Sun 14:00 . Suite 5-4. Wang Yan Massage I-3. info@velurspa. fax +355 4 222 84 30.20:00. tel.com. fax +355 4 223 05 80.21:00. +355 4 241 58 70. [email protected]. tel.tia. +355 4 225 07 11. ext.gov.al. +355 4 223 46 21. solarium. QOpen 09:00 . Zog I. www. secretary. tel. +355 4 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. www.gov. Vesa Spa & Fitness I-4. tel. fax +355 4 224 86 84.imf.al. com. justice.20:00.eu. www. QOpen 09:00 .000 lek) massages. Beauty & Wellness 227 09 67/+355 68 20 26 118.al.org/tirana. +355 The recently renovated statue of the unknown soldier 223 59 96. www. Transparency International Bul. tel.al. fax +355 4 223 20 75. In a second-floor apartment. SNV (Dutch Projects Office) Rr. +355 4 223 39 50. www. mete. tel.org. Commerce and Energy Blv. +355 4 with street views and there's a sauna. tel.23:00.al. tel. Closed Sun.al. Zogu I.al. tel.gov.al.inyourpocket. tel. www. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. www. UNICEF (United Nations Children's Fund) Rr.world. tel. Land.al. Ap. and lit up on sumer nights. +355 4 225 05 99.58 DIRECTORY Refugees) Rr. tel. 3. English spoken. they are to be clad in local stone and will hold apartments. +355 4 224 68 98/+355 69 202 03 60. Agim Robo H-4.com.com. Italian. www. Rr. buildings and apartments for sale and for rent.Mine Peza Nr 1.org. WHO (World Health Organisation) Rr. the Rotterdam-based architecture bureau MVRDV designed a rather spectacular masterplan to extend the park in this area and to add a high-quality and dense urban area along a new “Copa Tirana’ lakeshore drive. tel. +355 4 228 06 50. World Bank Rr.com.org.org. tel.com. South American jacaranda trees. Slovenian.com. org. tel. tel. 30/ Rr. www. and remains a green corridor. Kati 3. are to planted throughout the area.org. Rr. reale@icc. tel.al. Specialises in building plots and agricultural land.com. 3. tel. Dhimitra Qarri G-3. Elbasanit 103.com. Shk. Shk. 1. Pall. Real estate Albania Property Group Rr. Full directory listings can be found at http://tirana. Serbian.net. tel. Abdi Kazani. +355 69 293 69 16/+355 68 385 95 50.com. Colliers G/H-4. Macedonian./fax +355 4 227 17 46. Rr. Croatian.org. contact@ freshpropertyalbania. Pallatet 1Maji. tel. with benches along the whole lenght. +355 4 222 22 41. fax +355 4 240 04 71. [email protected]. French. Offices in Tirana and Saranda. www.com. Bulgarian and Russian. www. unhcr.alb-property. tel. +355 4 223 31 18. Dibrës. +355 4 223 65 QOpen 08:30 . Ap 24. [email protected]. 84. Durresit.com. tel. suite 141. [email protected]:00. +355 4 223 04 48.net. www. fax +355 4 222 84 92. a hotel and recreational facilities. Digital developing too. tel.inf-93. The plan forsees a number of large rectangular buildings to be placed at weird angles in the area below the dam. QOpen 24hrs. Rr. Blv. 79./fax +355 4 224 95 22. tel. Nicknamed the Tirana Rocks. The dam is to become more pedestrian-friendly. Zogu I.com. Sami Frasheri. +355 4 224 72 85. 3/1. +355 4 224 62 53. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 34. Ismail Qemali 27/1.com. Sun 09:00 . German. Kati 1. To avoid this ad hoc growth also effecting the remaining empty area beside the lake’s dam. A chain of modern photo labs. shops. Rr. P. clampart@worldbank. fax +355 4 225 78 29. Donika Kastrioti 4. Rr. Next to the Tirana Bank. Sheraton Hotel. Godina Volkswagen. fotorreli@albmail. www. Luarasi 2a.eu. +355 4 240 04 70. Real estate agency and property consultants based in Tirana and Saranda wi th proper ty for rent and sale there and in Vlora. Luig j Gurakuqi 8. Barrikadave. fax +355 4 224 05 90. Brigada VIII.com. tel. info@greenhours. www. fax +355 4 225 47 60.com. [email protected] Germenji. Kavajës. Century 21 Albania Rr. land sale and more. www. Skënderbej. +355 4 226 63 94. Closed Sun.com. and a jumble of new buildings has risen around the southern shores and beside the zoo and botanical gardens./ fax +355 4 223 28 44.inyourpocket. balkimo. info@alb-property. www.com tirana. linked to the third floor lobbies of the new buildings by wooden walkways.20:00. info@balkimo. +355 4 227 33 35.net. www. Modern pharmacy. Sky Tower. Blv. fax +355 4 223 22 22. Real Estate Imobiliary Rr.Rreli C-4. Durrësit 118. Fresh Proper ty Albania Rr. tel. UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Pharmacies Farmacia 7-17 C-4.org.com. www. greenhours. furniture packs. fatimemetaj@yahoo. Shk. Also aftersales ser vice. info@albaniapropertygroup. 17:00-21:30. +355 4 223 98 72. Notaries These offices provide notary work and legal assistance. tel. 10.com. tel.colliers. tel. A. Pallati Aurora Konstruktion. Houses for sale and rent.02:00. Photography +355 4 222 79 65/ 222 23 29/+355 68 20 29 675. 4.inyourpocket. tel. 7. tel. which flower bright purple for a month every spring. Blv. Balkimo Sheshi Italia. 224 88 40. Alb Property Rr. tel. 66. QOpen 08:00 .com Tirana In Your Pocket . [email protected]:00. Pall. office@ who-albania.freshpropertyalbania. gov. Ital Kumi H-4. Translates English to/from Albanian. Shk. Greek and Turkish. www.unicef./fax +355 4 226 61 62. Translations Fadil Metaj D-3. fmetaj2005@yahoo. Islam Alla. +355 4 225 12 00/+355 69 209 55 71. USAID (United States Aid) Rr.un. +355 4 Tirana Rocks © MVRDV Tirana’s lake area is seeing fast growth. loungebar042@gmail. 1. property management and investment opportunities. offices. Fatime Metaj D-3.com.com. info@farmatech. Farmatech D-5. QOpen 07:00 . Bajram Curri. INF93 Rr.bank. Dervish Hima. Ap.usaid.net. agimrobo@hotmail. Green Hours Rr. Pall. Closed Sun.al. fax +355 4 224 37 75. albaniapropertygroup. Construction of the €600 million project will start in 2010. Some also do written translations into and from English. +355 4 222 84 74. Zogu I. E-3/4 Komuna e Parisit H-2/3. Dëshmorët e Kombit F-4 to I-5 Blv. I-1/2 Xhezmi Delli E-2 Xhorxhi Martini E/F-5 Ymer Kurti I/J-3 Zenel Baboçi D-5 . Bush F-5 Prokop Myzeqari D-3 Punëtorët e Rilindjes see Presidenti GWB Qemal Guranjaku H-6 Qemal Stafa E-5. K-2 Luig j Gurakuqi E-4/5 Mahmut Fortuzi B/C-4 Maliq Muço D-4 Margarita Tutulani J-3/4 Medar Shtylla I/J/K-2 Mehmet Brocaj D-3 Mihal Duri E-3 Mihal Grameno G-6 Milto Tutulani I/J-3 Mine Peza C-2. Shuteriqi J-1/2 Dibrës C/D-5. Zogu I C/D/E-4 Bogdani E-3 Brigada VIII H-3/4 Çamëria F-3/4 Çerçiz Topulli C-4. G-1/2.). H-3 Fadil Rada I-2. Zhan D’Ark G-5 to E-6 Blv.Street register All Tirana streets below are prefexed ‘Rruga’ (Rr. squares as ‘Sheshi’. boulevards are listed as ‘Blv’. D-5 Vaso Pasha G/H/I/J-4 Vëllezërit Manastiri D-2 Viktor Eftimiu H-1. J-4 Lidhja Prizrenit I/J-4 Liman Kaba J-2/3. E-5 Abdi Toptani F-4/5 Abdulla Keta D-5 Abdyl Frashëri I-3/4/5 Adem Kruja G-2 Ali Pashe Gucia C-5/6. I-2 Kont Urani E-3 Kristaq Mema D-2/3 Lek Dukag jini I-5. Bajram Curri H-1 to G-6 Blv. J-2/3 Hajdar Hidi E/F-3 Haki Mborja J-1 Halim Xhelo E-2 Haxhi Hysen Dalliu D-3. Luarasi C-4/5. D-6 Andon Zako Çajupi H-3 Asim Vokshi D-3/4 Asim Zeneli H-5/6 Bardhok Biba D-4 Barrikadave B/C-4. H-2 Murat Toptani F-4/5 Musa Agolli B-5 Mustafa Lleshi G-6 Mustafa Matohiti G/H-5 Myrtezim Këlliçi E/F-5 Myslym Shyri G-2/3. D-5/6 Ramzan Farka B-6 Reshit Çollaku F-4 Reshit Petrela B/C-4 Robert Shvare I-1 Sami Frashëri G-3 to J-4 Saraçëve D-5 Sermedin Said Toptani F-4 Shaqir Ofshafi C-5/6 Sheh Ahmet Pazari I-6 Shenasi Dishnica D/E-5 Sheshi 21 Dhjetori F-1 Sheshi Avni Rustemi E-5 Shesi Fan Noli E-5 Sheshi Italia I-5 Sheshi Nënë Tereza I-5 Sheshi Skënderbeg E/F-4 Sheshi Zogu i Zi C/D-2 Shyqyr Bërxolli E/F-3 Shyqyr Ishmi F-6 Siri Kodra B-4 Skënder Kosturi B/C-4 Skënderbeg D/E/F-2 Stavro Vinjau H/I-6 Sulejman Delvina H-2. B5/6 Don Bosko B/C-2 Donika Kastrioti G/H-4 Dora D’Istria K/J-4 Durrësit D-2/3. E-3 Muhamet Gjollesha D-1/2. Shijaku B/C-4 Kajo Karafili E-3/4 Karl Gega B-4 Kavajës F-1/2/3. D-2/3. E-4 Tafaj C-5/6 Tefta Tashko Koço E-6 Thanas Ziko B-5/6. Karapici E-6 V. H-5/6. 4 Dëshmorët C-6 28 Nëntori F-4/5. Gjerg j Fishta H-1 to G-4 Blv. H-3 Faik Konica I-6 Fatmir Haxhiu G-5 Frederik Shiroka F-1/2. I-6 Emin Duraku I-2. F-3/4 Naim Frashëri E/F-2 Nasi Pavllo H/I-6 Nikolla Lena F-2 Nikolla Tupe I-3/4. C-6 Themistokli Gërmenji H-5/6 Thimi Mitko E-6 Unaza C-2/3/4 V. E-1. C-3/4 Haxhi Sina C-6 Him Kolli F-3 Hoxhe Vokrri D-6 Hoxha Tahsim E/D-6 Ibrahim Dervishi I-1 Isa Boletini C/D-5 Islam Alla E/F/G-3 Ismail Qemali H-3/4/5 Jani Vreto E-5/6 Jeronim de Rada F-5 Jordan Misja A/B/C-3 Jul Varibova G-5 Justin Gadari E/F-2 Jusuf Vrioni I-2 K. D-5 Ded Gjo Luli E-4 Dervish Hatixhe D/C-4 Dervish Hima I-5/6 Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit G/H/I/J-4 Dhimitër S. E-3/4 Edit Durham E-2 Elbasanit G-5. E-2 Gjin Bue Shpata H/I-3 Gjin Kuqali I/J-3 Gjon Buzuku B/C-5 Gjon Muzaka E-2 Gjon Pali II G/H/I-5 Grigor Heba I-2. F-1. H-4 Papa Kristo Negovani C-4 Perlat Rexhepi C-4 Petro Korçari I-1 Petro Nini Luarasi F-6 Pjetër Bogdani H-3/4 Pjetër Budi H-6 Prek Bibë Doda H-2 Presidenti George W. I-2/3 Sulejman Pasha D-3/4. D-4/5 Beqir Luga E-6 Besim Imami F-2/3 Bilal Konxholli C-5/6 Blv. inyourpocket. 39 Kuki 31 La Cantinella 27 La Tavernetta 27 Living Room 31 Lollipop 34 London 25 Lugano 14 Lulishte 1 Maji 25 Magic Blue 28 Mai Tai Resort 22 Mamma Rosa 27 Martyrs' Cemetery 35 Meduza 31 Meg Klaus 18 Metropolitan 23 Mezuraj Museum 35 Mimi Miniri Mojo MonarC MonarC Bar Mondial Mother Teresa statue Mr. Chicken Mrizi i Zanave Napoli National History Museum Nëna Mbretereshë Nirvana Nobel Noel Noi Café Oda Orthodox Cathedral Orthodox Church Otium Palma Panorama Papafingo Parlamenti Pastiçeri International Patisserie Française Pension Andrea Pension Strazimi Petrela Castle Piazza Pike Loti Pirro Mani Pyramid Quo Vadis Radio Raum Regency Casino Rei Jazz Club Republika Rinia Park Rock 'n Roll Rockwood Rogner Europapark Royal Rozafa Sarajet Savana Serenata Serendipity Shang Hai Sharm Club 24 16 30 12 31 12 38 25 23 27 36 28 16 16 32 30 23 36 36 26 16 22 32 18 30 25 20 21 39 23 18 27 35 30 32 34 34 32 20 38 32 32 11 25 28 24 20 24 26 25 34 Shëng jin Church Mosaic Sheraton Tirana Hotel Skanderbeg Square Skanderbeg Statue Sky Club Sky Club Café Sky Hotel Sofra Sofra e Ariut Steakhouse Steelwings Stela Stephen Center B&B Stephen Center Café Stylus Club Marriott Swiss Chalet Tanners' Bridge Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe Theranda Tiki Tirana Backpacker Hostel 1 Tirana Backpacker Hostel 2 Tirana International Tirana Rock Tomb of Kaplan Pasha UAW Guesthouse Unknown Partisan Statue Venue Dance Club Venue Park Verzaci Vesa Residence Victoria Vila 3 Vila 12 Vila 31 Vila Aeroport Vila Belvedere Vila Ferdinand Vila Logoreci Vila Metropolitan Vila Park Vila Tafaj Vila Verde Villa Amsterdam Vinum Viva Wine Spirit Xheko Imperial Yamato Zero 42 Zoo 36 11 35 38 26 30 14 28 28 26 32 16 21 30 32 28 37 37 16 32 22 22 12 32 37 21 38 34 22 18 21 16 14 28 24 18 16 26 27 26 18 18 20 26 23 24 32 11 27 34 38 Come with us to discover Europe's last secret Albania Experience Tel +355 4 2 272 055 Fax +355 4 2 271 960 Mobile: 068 40 490 90 Email: alexperience@albaniaonline. Sheraton Tirana &Towers.net www. 26 Gregory's Coffee 30 Guva e Qetë 18 Haxhiu 18 Hotel Airport Tirana 18 House of the Dervish Khorosani 37 Il Cappricio di Zio Edi 27 Iliria 14 Il Pomodoro Food Court 25 Imagine 32 Irish Bar Tirana 34 Juna 30 Jurgen 18 Juvenilja Castelo 28 Kalaja 18 Kalaja e Petreles 27 King House 25 Kolonat 25 Kruja 14.albania-experience. Tirana. Paul Catholic Church Central Market Charl’s Bistro Chateau Linza City Clock Tower Converse Dafina Dajti Ekspres Cable Car Dajti Park Da Shang Hai Delikatesë Diplomat Diplomat Fashion Doro City Eder Elysée Endri Enoteca Joan Epër shme 7 Era 27 20 32 18 18 26 23 11 35 18 35 30 26 23 30 25 25 39 32 38 18 11 14 31 20 31 14 23 26 36 36 35 31 12 14 36 31 20 39 22 24 30 12 12 14 14 14 20 32 30 23 Et'hem Bey Mosque 37 Europa 14 Fan Noli Statue 38 Far East 24 Ferari 14 Firenze 14 Flares 31 Flex 31 Folie 34 Fortress of Justinian 37 Freddy's Hostel 21 Friend's Book House 30 Galeria Shijaku 37 Grand 11 Grand Park 38 Green House 12.al Address: Sheshi Italia. Albania Grannies relaxing in the National Museum park Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.62 INDEX 1001 Netë Albaniantrip Alcora Alpin Ambasador Amor Apollonia Arber Archaeological Museum Areela Art Gallery Artist Lounge Ballkoni Dajtit Bantia Bardhe e Zi Big Bite Billionaire Black Cave Bonaparte Botanical gardens Briker Brilant Antik Broadway Buda Bar Bujtina Shqiptare Bulevard Café California Carlsberg Casa di Pasta Cathedral of St.com .