The Art of Skin Peels Rhonda Allison
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A Step by Step Skin Peel Guide for the Professional TH E ART O F S K I N PE E L S Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises i ii . who may quote brief passages in a review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper. without permission in writing from the publisher. or organizations are unintentional. For information.The Art of Skin Peels: A Step by Step Skin Peel Guide for the Professional Copyright © 2000 Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises Printed and bound in the United States of America. Any slights of people.. places. Ste 100 Southlake. All rights reserved. or any inconsistency herein. TX 76092 817-410-9899 First Edition 2000 Second Edition 2004 Third Edition 2011 www. please contact: Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises 275 Commerce St. or transmitted in any form or by any means. inaccuracies. recording or otherwise. mechanical. No part of this publication may be reproduced.com Although the author(s) and publisher have made every effort to ensure the accuracy and completeness of the information contained in this book.rhondaallison. stored in any retrieval system. we assume no responsibility for errors. except by a reviewer. photocopying. omissions. 2 Post Care Scenario No.1 Post Care Scenario No.C ontents Skin Structure—Diagram Why Skin Ages Dry Skin Sensitive Skin Rosacea Hyperpigmented Skin Oily Skin Acne Skin Acne Treatments Peeling Agents Microdermabrasion Oxygen Fitzpatrick Classification Do’s and Don’ts Before You Begin 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 11 13 15 16 18 19 20 Technique Treatment Intensities Treatments at a Glance Protocols Remember to Tell Your Client Complications Wound Healing The Post Care Visit Post Care Scenario No.3 Home Care Product Glossary Terms And Modalities Contact Us 21 22 25 24 153 154 155 156 157 161 164 166 167 172 174 iii . D is C lai M er Treatments covered in this book are advanced in the field of aesthetics, and require many years of education. Rhonda Allison Enterprises is not responsible for the reader’s choice of performing any treatment in this book. The book is for information and guidance, and in no way can Rhonda Allison Enterprises determine who is qualified to perform a treatment contained herein nor can Rhonda Allison Enterprises control the reader’s use of this information. Reading this book does not in any way suggest, claim, or authorize that the reader is fully prepared to perform skin peels. iv To T he P rofessional skin praC titioner Everyone using this book should have completed training in skin peels above and beyond cosmetology school. Since there are no accredited colleges that cover peels, it is up to each individual to take the responsibility to seek educators, information, and education that will increase their understanding of the skin and its reaction to acids. This book is not a replacement for education. It was created as an extension to my courses in acid peeling. It is meant to support what my students learn, and it is my way of sharing the treatments and client care guidelines that I have found to be most successful in my clinic. I consider acid peeling not just a science, but an art. Learning an art is a process that evolves with understanding and experience. I am still learning and discovering. My hope is that this book becomes a stepping stone on your path to knowledge and to discovering your art. It is my privilege to share it with you. v intro D u C tion I am not a doctor, chemist, scientist, or author. I have no degree or formal training. So what are my credentials? I have over 30 years of experience performing acid peels on thousands of clients and on myself. During those years, I have made (and continue to make) a point to discover and integrate every bit of information on skin and skin rejuvenation that I can find. Over the years, I developed a series of unique treatments that synergistically use low-intensity acids so that optimal results can be reached with very little risk. In this book, I am now happy to offer you the best of these treatments, but not without some trepidation. You see, I am providing information that is controversial because there is little or no standardization as to what an aesthetician can or cannot do. Though I do foresee more standardization (hopefully on a federal level), until that time, I work within self-imposed boundaries. And I am ethically bound to ask you to do the same. I must ask you to do what I have done: accomplish the best results at a noninvasive, superficial level. Because the skin is a live and responsive organ, what I ask is in no way limiting. I have helped at least 95% of my clients achieve their skin care goals even though my most aggressive peels are considered superficial by medical standards. Much of what I have learned, I learned by just doing. I did not know why skin looked better as a result of skin peeling—it just did. After more than 30 years, I know from my case studies and personal experience, superficial chemexfoliation does the following: Lighten and brighten skin Improve appearance of enlarged pores Diminish fine lines Soften wrinkles and furrows Increase blood circulation Reduce sebum Soften scar tissue Minimize comedones, pustules, and papules and allow for easier extraction Stimulate fibroblast, resulting in new cell development Strengthen integrity of skin RESULT: A HEALTHIER AND MORE YOUTHFUL SKIN! How does all this happen? In this book, we first take a look at basic skin structure so that we understand the science. Then we go into important pre-treatment advice followed by the various skin types and what treatments are most appropriate for each. We conclude with possible complications and post care scenarios. vi and curiously enough. then stratum granulosum cells. One-half square inch of skin contains millions of cells. It is nonvascular and is comprised of layered sheets of squamous epithelium. the pigment substance that gives color to skin. Stratum germinativum cells become cells of the malpighii layer where melanin. The deepest epidermal layer is the stratum germinativum. is found. male skin is more acidic than female skin. which is basically a thick layer of loose connective tissue and fat. Damaged superficial stratum corneum cells can be removed and cellular reproduction can be stimulated. abrasion-resistant substance. They become stratum malpighii cells. more than a yard of tiny blood vessels. about 50 sebaceous glands. and over 500 nerve endings. cells’ fluid contents evaporate. Both of these structures are supported by subcutaneous tissue. waterproof. and finally stratum corneum cells. The ability of the stratum germinativum to reproduce and specialize is critical because it enables the skin to repair itself if injured. The dermis is underneath the epidermis and is composed of connective tissue. It is composed of column-shaped epithelial cells. 1 In the stratum corneum. Malpighii cells become cells of the granulosum layer. Granulosum cells become cells of the lucidum layer. lucidum cells make the transformation to become stratum corneum layer cells. Their protoplasm fully transforms into keratin. an intermediate substance in the formation of horn (keratin). There are two main skin structures. a highly protective.6). These cells are made of eleidin. then stratum lucidum cells. the epidermis and the dermis. As new cells from the germinativum successfully move toward the surface of the skin. cells become flat and lose all nuclei. This is also why peels work.2 to 5. The epidermis is the outermost layer. where they become indistinct. more than 200 sweat glands. Its architecture is impressive. Finally. Its pH is acidic (4. undamaged skin to form. they specialize to provide maximum protection for the body tissues that lie beneath them. closely packed scales in which only traces of flattened nuclei can be found. . allowing new. which have the ability to reproduce.skin stru C ture The skin is the largest and one of the most important organs of the body. causing long-lasting damage. Since most aging of the skin is due to overexposure to sun. heat. and poor nutrition all have a deleterious effect on the skin. think of the control one has in preventing premature aging. 2. lifestyle. yet brutal. our ability to repair and recover from damage is much less? The primary reason is the damage caused to cells by free radicals. they are worse for us than the sun! In addition. smoking. smoking. EnVironMent. Why is it that as we chronologically age. Over time. is a major dehydrating and aging lifestyle factor. So you can see there is a constant barrage of intruders on our skin. resulting in aging skin. Use of topical and systemic antioxidants can. as dead cells build up on the surface of the skin. and sun radiation penetrates the dermis and affects the skin at the cellular level. chemicals in everyday products. Smoking. Free radicals are unstable molecules that take electrons from healthy molecules. It is extrinsic aging that affects the appearance of the skin. lack of skin care and protection. It is said that 90% of all wrinkling of the skin is due to sun damage. but damage continues throughout our lifetime. sun exposure depletes the nutrients in the skin. to a certain degree. Pollution causes free-radical damage. wind) for long periods of time. plant derived antioxidants. smoking (this affects biological and extrinsic aging) . Extrinsic “skin agers” are exposure to extreme weather conditions (cold. In addition. air pollution. and beta carotene. Extrinsic or external aging is the natural process of biological aging compiled with exterior causes such as sun exposure. The use of nutrients that will actually absorb into the tissue and support healthy cell development is valuable in counteracting free radical damage. Lifestyle. the production of new cells becomes less and less. protect the skin from such damage. there are many outside factors that increase free radical damage . a big free-radical producer. 3. However. . grape seed extracts.number one is the sun and many others include air pollution. The most damaging of all extrinsic factors is sunlight. such nutrient depletion compromises the skin’s ability to regenerate. 2 ANTIOXIDANTS & HOW THEY AFFECT SKIN Internal activity of free radicals is a natural process and the body will normally adjust to this. This creates a cycle of more free radicals that attack cellular membranes. Most sun damage occurs in early childhood. Antioxidants are an answer to a healthier skin but a key consideration as to the effects of a topical antioxidant is its ability to penetrate.W hy skin a G es There are two factors that affect the aging of the skin: extrinsic and intrinsic. Basically. D-alpha tocopherol. ALL will age when overexposed. Intrinsic or internal aging is biological aging that occurs with the passing of time. inappropriate cosmetics. sun exposure zaps the tissue of all moisture and hydration. NO skin type is safe. WEAR SUNSCREEN AND STAY OUT OF THE SUN! UVA and UVB rays destroy skin. cosmetics and other allergens and lack of care. foods. and the air we breathe. Tanning beds are not any safer. Sun EXposure. Inadequate sleep. pollutants. resveratrol (wine extracts). insufficient fluid intake. Important antioxidant ingredients are superoxide dismutase. UVB burns and UVA ages. L-ascorbic acid.not only toxic to skin but will form upper lip lines. Its effects are cumulative and gradual. 1. which creates inflammation within cells and collagen digesting enzymes. such as titanium dioxide.Vitamin A. Collagen fiber. and iron oxides. and Essential Fatty Acids are known to cause various forms of dermatitis and other skin conditions. photoaging. All skin types age but peeling in general will be a positive support system for many skins. Elastin is a protein and is a key molecule that affects the aging of the skin. I have included a section for aging skin that may over lap with other skin conditions. when healthy. lines around the eyes and mouth. such as UVA rays from the sun. aging. and dull. These treatments are for skin that shows signs of wrinkling. Mild deficiencies may not directly affect the skin but may slow down the skin's ability to heal and renew itself. Nutrition from within will encourage healthy cells but will not protect the skin from outside damage. but improved eating style will slow it down and contribute to better health. That is why skin must have the correct topical skin nutrition. unevenness of color. On the other hand. The most effective anti wrinkle cream you can offer is a sun block. 3 . Collagen is a protein that forms a grid which holds other skin structures. It is collagen that gives our skin its youthful appearance but unfortunately it is also a primary target for free radicals. This process starts the formation of wrinkles. An area that must not be ignored pertaining to health and aging of the skin is nutrition. This begins to give the skin a more aged appearance. The best protection is a physical block that is natural. Stress the importance of protecting the skin from the sun. B Complex. tired skin that has lost its luster. It is more stretchable than collagen and also adds to the resilience and elasticity of the skin. Combined with free radical damage are various triggers. Avoid the chemical sunscreen ingredient octyl methoxycinnamate (OCM). Changing how one eats and adding vitamin & mineral supplements to your diet is not going to erase wrinkles and stop aging. a diet of junk food or no food will eventually affect your skin as well as many other organs of the body. keeps the skin smooth and resilient.Free radical scavengers administered systemically and/or topically reduce damage by decomposing free radicals into compounds. but becomes very stiff and brittle when damaged. Deficiencies of certain nutrients . zinc oxide. we are composed of 90% water.D ry skin Dry skin has an absence of moisture. Overuse of scrubs can dry your skin. psoriasis. One of the first places our tissues lose water is the skin. being aware of light coming through car windows (if possible. Intrinsic causes of dry skin include genetic factors. The typical age of a client with dry skin problems is 26 years old and up. illness. Dry skin is less elastic. I recommend physical sunblocks with titanium dioxide and/or iron oxides.” This means using sunblock and a hat. having car windows tinted). and “alligator” skin. shirts. So much so that by the time we are in our golden years we are about 10% water. Undercleansing and overmoisturizing can also dehydrate because the moisturizing agent just lies on the surface of the skin. Dry skin conditions range from a minimal lack of moisture to eczema. Clay-type masks are also drying. Think about an animal’s hide. Assessing your client’s skin care needs and recommending the appropriate professional skin rejuvenation treatments. Thinner skins and fair complexions are more prone to dehydration. beautiful skin is a moist skin. becomes dull in appearance. Instructing your client about the importance of following an appropriate daily skin program that includes cleansing. and wearing clothes. and aging. medications. moisturizing. CosMetiCs. and also may lack adequate sebum/oil production. and avoiding exposure during the sunniest time of day (10 a. and protecting. *See page 2 “Why Skin Ages” 2. and then you have leather! Over time. Recommending to your client the elimination or at least management of the listed external causes. as they give the best protection. Daily Skin TreatMents. unable to penetrate the layer of build-up. with adequate care. antihistamines and antibiotics. and thus is more prone to the formation of wrinkles. It is said when we are born. there are intrinsic and extrinsic causes. but not always. 1. It also means wearing sunglasses. you will find professional skin care protocols that I have found extremely useful in the treatment of dry skin. to 3 p. Dry skin ages faster. A note on sleeping: Instruct clients to avoid sleeping facedown. A healthy. In the next section of this book and in the post care section. As with all skin conditions. 2. Alcohol-based products are very drying. sun eXposure. looses elasticity.m. problems resulting from dry skin can be reversed by: 1. 3. Having your client adopt what I call “total sun awareness. and is more prone to wrinkles and furrows. 3. It is supple until the moisture is removed. hats. nourishing. 4 . especially bentonite. and that as we age this becomes less.m. 4.). and swimwear that have been UVB protected if the client is going to be out in the sun regularly. bringing it to a state of less reactivity. The approach for treating this type of skin is slightly different. medications. A series of progressive treatments is a good way to strengthen skin integrity and desensitize skin. There are many excellent skin rejuvenation choices for reactive skin types that will support and enhance the health and appearance of the skin for a lifetime. and certainly cosmetics. 5 . It is also important to understand that chemical peels may be one of the best supports for what is termed a "sensitive" skin and as new. These are the three skin antagonizers and often times when eliminated the skin begins to calm down and show less irritation. A truly sensitive skin is one that reddens and develops rash easily. and perfumes. It is my experience that sensitive skins do not tolerate alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) as well as they tolerate beta acids and retinol. It has been my observation over many years of working with skin. specifically if the daily regimen is adjusted to what their skin likes. The lower-strength AHAs melt down the stratum corneum. Sensitive skin tends to be thinner than average and more prone to broken capillaries (telangiectasia). healthy cells surface the skin becomes less irritated and reactive. sun. and then I like to continue this process with the bettertolerated retinols and beta acid peels.certain individuals are more sensitive or reactive to environment. Even though all skins react to outside influences such as pollution. and being an individual who is also reactive to substances. allowing regeneration to begin. Therefore I begin treatments with a less aggressive approach by using lower-strength AHAs in combination with enzymes instead of higher-strength AHAs. The skin is a reactive mechanism and does respond to internal and external factors . preservatives. foods.sensiti V e skin The term sensitive in relation to skin type is often overused or misunderstood. smoking. sensitive skins overreact. that most sensitive skins are reacting to inferior products or products that contain dyes. and wind. My skin reacted negatively to products that contained perfumes. bacteria and mites attached to cells. I was going into the second stage (broken blood vessels and very pink cheeks) when I began to change what I used on my skin. My personal eXperienCe With rosaCea I have a genetic predisposition to it and did in fact develop the first stage in my twenties. Also as professionals. 6 . genetic predisposition. According to medical research the cause is unknown and incurable. I took Rutin (Vitamin P) a bioflavinoid for many years and changed my sun habits. ThirD StaGe of RosaCea Deep persistent redness and many dilated veins. or preservatives and when “fruit acids” came onto the scene. sluggish lymph. Fields with the bulbous nose). do not choose your topicals only by what you can use . At its worst.if I had done that I would have missed out on the wonderful benefits of AHAs. strong family history of rosacea & facial skin that becomes irritated by topical creams. lotions. C.rosa C ea What Is RosaCea? Rosacea is a chronic and progressive disorder that may first be noticed as redness on the cheeks. can be detected in teens or early 20s. and over the counter sunscreens and skin products with irritating ingredients. There are many theories as to the cause . A susceptibility to rosacea. or forehead that comes and goes. Certain areas of the skin may take on a "baggy" appearance from swelling. the nose may grow swollen and bumpy from excess tissue. An early sign of the third stage is fibroplasia (growth of excess tissue). Dilated blood vessels (telangiectasia) may appear and papules and pustules begin to form. nose. chin. SeConD staGe of RosaCea Redness tends to become ruddier and more permanent. anti-acne medications. So even with peels we have to be selective and adjust to each individual. lion-like facial features occur. First StaGe of RosaCea Frequent blushes or flushes. dyes. digestive disorders. especially in men. a condition called Rhinophyma (W. my skin was not happy at all with glycolic acid. That is how I discovered early on that peels had a very positive effect on a sensitive and/or rosacea skin. I started having peels (Modified Jessner and Coresa Salicylic) regularly. called prerosacea. which can produce enlarged pores.poor circulation. especially around the nose. Rosacea is even reported in children. When the entire face is involved swelling may produce painful nodules and with fibroplasia. No melanin (an abscense of color) Demarcation . And even in systemic situations. perfume on a sun-exposed neck may result in hyperpigmentation. Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation is over-stimulated melanocytes that results in increased melanin. and the use of antibiotics. And you also need to remember to educate clients about the sun and to always recommend sunblock. not more numerous. birth control pills. Sometimes. it can be made worse by extrinsic causes. This condition is normally treated with melanin suppressants such as hydroquinone. the cells are larger. and AHAs. may induce hyperpigmentation. the sun always makes it worse. topical camouflages may be used. i. Treatment results vary greatly depending on whether discoloration is at a cellular or superficial level. The main extrinsic cause is the sun! Sun exposure can cause hyperpigmentation on its own or in combination with other agents. but because it is a common condition on facial skin and because it responds well to peels and lightening treatments. you need to be aware that skin rejuvenation.. A mixture of both levels is usually dark brown. especially if the client has darker skin and if lesions are picked and not allowed to heal naturally. but with the introduction of chemicals. The difference is that in darker skin. There is the same amount of melanocytes present in white and dark skin. Acne trauma and inflammation can result in hyperpigmentation. This produces more pigment. Skins that have more pigment seem to be more prone to hyperpigmentation. a high SPF sunblock is an essential factor in effectively controlling hyperpigmentation. hormonal changes. the professional will observe three types of hyperpigmentation: Epidermal or surface is light brown and not quite as dense. Hyperpigmentation . types of piGMent ChanGes There are approXiMately 2000 MelanoCytes per MilliMeter of skin Ethnic skin is not darker because it holds more melanocytes (which produce the melanin that creates pigment). if total evenness of color has not been achieved. anyone can be susceptible. from dry to oily. Systemic causes include pregnancy. laser and mechanical peels. Excessive production of melanin can be brought on by systemic and extrinsic causes.Darkened pigment Hypopigmentation . and overexposure to sun.Uneven pigmentation from procedures. I’ve decided to dedicate a section to it. darkened skin tone. Dermal is deeper brown or ashen gray and appears more solid. As a professional. It is excessive stimulation of melanin in the skin that results in an uneven. picking. And in all cases of hyperpigmentation.e. natural plant-based lighteners. or scratching. Through a series of treatments there can be significant change and correction.hyperpi G M ente D skin Hyperpigmentation is not a skin type. medications. estrogen intake. referred to as PIH. For example. When examining the skin. chemical peels. It can also be treated with microdermabrasion and other peeling methods. Hyperpigmentation is a condition that can happen to all skin types. 7 . Sun exposure can exacerbate the problem. oily skin Oily skin results from the overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands of the skin. clay-type masks. In addition. Oily skin requires the use of stripping cleansers that are capable of dissolving surface lipids. keep in mind that overuse of some stripping agents. It can benefit from a home care program that includes alcohol-based lotions. I have had clients with oily skin as young as 10 years and as old as 70 years of age. It is very possible for someone to have oily and dry skin. Oily skin is more prone to comedones. and acne lesions. Age is not necessarily a factor in oily skin. Some experts believe that genetics and adolescent hormonal changes are key factors. it is a common condition that can result in problematic skin. enlarged pores. you must observe and be aware of each client’s needs so that you can attain and maintain a healthy balance. As professionals. However. It is not really known why one person’s skin produces more oil than another’s. and the use of alpha-hydroxy and beta acids. will actually stimulate oil production. many people are uncomfortable with the shiny appearance and slippery surface caused by excessive oil production. But regardless of key factors. 8 . Alcohol and clays may overdry the skin. such as scrubs. there can be an overproduction of oil and an absence of moisture. white blood cells migrate to the surface. allowing the debris to push toward the surface opening. but the follicle opening does not. MiCroCoMeDones. When there is intense inflammation in a follicle. red lesion that does not form pus results. When this natural exfoliation slows down. Open CoMeDo (BlaCkheaD). Microcomedones are mixtures of dead cells. It is important to know exactly what it is: the various types of acne. When a papule is not dissolved by enzymes. deeper. It usually consists of noninflammatory lesions. Any lesion larger than one centimeter is considered a cyst. they become visible closed or open comedos. bringing impacted material with them and dilating the opening to form a pustule. As the cellular debris collects. ACne CosMetiCa. A nodule is a sore red lesion that is larger. Oxygen is what causes the darkening of the sebum that is exposed. This acne is triggered by topical poreclogging substances. soft. This is acne that is caused by friction or pressure. and firmer than a papule. depositing digestive enzymes to 9 . NoDule. the immune system sends white blood cells into the area. CloseD CoMeDo (WhiteheaD). Once this happens. and other cellular debris. T ypes of A C ne ACne VulGaris. This occurs primarily in adolescents and involves a variety of lesions such as comedones. As the pus builds up. As they grow in size. What is aCne? The stratum corneum is constantly shedding and being replaced by new cells. Pustule.a C ne skin This is an important skin condition because about 90% of Americans at one point or another have acne. which is called a microcomedone. Dead skin cells stick to the surface and begin lining the inside walls of the follicles. papules. bacteria. elevated. Rubbing or manipulation of microcomedones may cause a rupture of the follicle on acne-prone skins. the follicle wall stretches to contain the contents of the impaction. Pustule formation alleviates pressure on the nerve ending and pain is subdued. a small (not readily visible) impaction is formed. white blood cells continue to engulf the break in the follicle wall. A papule is a closed comedo that does not become a blackhead but instead becomes large enough to break the follicle sac. pus-filled lesion resembling a boil. Sebum acts as a clogging agent by causing dead skin cells to stick together and to the walls of the follicles. Papule. forming pus. The pore is dilated by the impacted mass. When the break in the follicle is near the bottom. nodules. a nodule forms. thousands of white blood cells invade the site and create a large. ACne MeChaniCa. cysts. The following inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions result: When cells build up inside the follicle wall. and treatments that help control it. fatty acids from excess sebum. and sequelae (pitted or hypertrophic scars). factors that affect it. Cyst. Inflammation occurs and a painful. pustules. dissolve the impaction. a gradual buildup forms and retention hyperkeratosis occurs. ) It is usually seen in people with northern European heritage. Excessive alcohol. excessive dairy products. This is a critical factor affecting acne. However. MSG) can trigger existing acne conditions. Large and painful papules and pustules form in the center of the face. caffeine. Topical agent overuse can cause sebaceous glands to produce more oil. caffeine. hot spicy drinks and foods. heat. primarily on the cheeks and chin (typically where vessels dilate). There is no proven correlation between acne and the foods we eat. (An extreme state. An increase in progesterone aggravates acne conditions in genetically vulnerable women. which is why physicians often prescribe birth control pills. bulbous hypertrophy of the nose. and strenuous exercise exacerbate rosacea. and foods with iodides (salts. replace pillowcases daily. CosMetiCs. hairsprays. Picking. Fragrances. ACne is ClassifieD in GraDes: Grade 1—Comedonal acne Grade 2—Comedones and some pustules Grade 3—Comedones. tobacco. hot or cold showers.ACne RosaCea. fabric softeners. wind. soy sauce. and inept extraction rupture the follicle sac. extreme weather conditions (sun. sauna. HorMones. Nutrition. fast foods. and conditioners can contribute to an existing acne condition. and an occasional cyst Grade 4—Large pustules. inflamed pustules. This is an adult acne that is more predominant in women than men. 10 . Increased estrogen generally relieves acne. Detergents. cold). and is recognized by erythema with telangiectasia. and use clean washcloths. FaCtors AffeCtinG ACne Stress. shampoos. and preservatives irritate sensitive and acne-prone skins. alcohol. it is important to have clients rinse laundry thoroughly. DryinG. improper squeezing. PiCkinG. Thus. processed foods. and nodules Skin Irritants. is more predominant in men. inflamed cysts. Flare-ups occur between 14 days to a month after the stress response. dyes. severe dry and peeling skin. Glycolic and lactic acid treatments and/or home applications can successfully support the treatment of some acne skins. and combinations of these can be effective exfoliants.a C ne treat M ents MeDiCal Medical treatment of acne includes the use of antibiotics (Tetracycline. or cream formulas. diabetes. Patients may also experience unwanted side effects with antibiotic use. The following are some handy and effective aesthetic tools that can help you achieve this goal: To EliMinate BuilDUp Enzymes are complex organic proteins that accelerate chemical reactions. It shuts down the sebaceous activity of the entire body. Erythromycin). such as increased sun sensitivity. It does not work for all types of acne. It breaks down and exfoliates surface skin cells. gum inflammation. Comedogenic cream versions contain isopropyl myristate and stearic acid. 11 . Salicylic acid is a beta acid that is an anti-inflammatory and drying agent. and milk enzyme (lactose). to control and eliminate bacteria. There are a variety of safe and effective enzymes. and extract lesions. Side effects include severe birth defects. Other acid compounds such as low-strength trichloracetic acid (TCA). reduce sebaceous activity. and more. Microdermabrasion abrades and removes the cells of the stratum corneum. Antibiotics are sometimes ineffective because they do not necessarily affect the pores of the skin. gel. Use of the appropriate enzyme can be an effective and gentle way to approach exfoliation in the treatment of acne. yeast infections. The liquid and gel are helpful with noninflammatory acne but will not kill bacteria. Accutane is a Vitamin A derivative that is an extremely potent systemic drug. decrease inflammation. pancreatic enzyme. It is a topical treatment available in various strengths in liquid. bleeding. AesthetiC The aesthetician’s goal is to eliminate dead skin cell buildup with some form of exfoliation. and it is not uncommon for acne to return less than a year following treatment. and Retin-A. Minocin. When applied to the skin. L-Retinol is a safe form of Vitamin A that causes cell turnover and increases tissue regeneration. citrus enzyme. vegetable enzyme. Retin-A is a Vitamin A derivative also known as tretinoin or retinoic acid. Modified Jessner formula. Accutane. kidney malfunction. and digestive disorders. AHAs are nontoxic organic substances sometimes referred to as fruit acids that help loosen follicle impactions and reduce corneocyte cohesion and thickening of the corneum layer. they exfoliate by digesting stratum corneum cells. which can aggravate acne conditions. azelaic acid. bacillus enzyme. including the papaya enzyme. which softens the skin and makes the pores more accessible. or during a post care visit.To Control anD EliMinate BaCteria Sulfur is an anti-inflammatory and disinfectant that reduces sebaceous gland activity and exfoliates by drying dead surface cells. Proper extraction can make the difference in the success of an acne treatment. However. precaution should be taken not to overuse them since they also remove moisture (water content) from the skin. Camphor Alcohol Clay bentonite masks Corundum crystal powder (microdermabrasion crystals) 3. Its oxygenating properties are effective against propionibacterium. It is very effective because it penetrates two millimeters into the follicle. lifts sebum from the follicle. Manual eXtraCtion. Following are four extraction techniques that I have found helpful. in my opinion. individualized manner. The lesion is pierced in order to dilate the pore and reduce pressure. 4. Check state regulations and guidelines on what you are able to use. is a germicide. training on how and when to do extraction is equally as important as understanding the use of acids. This is a metal tool that. These techniques are most effective when preceded by steam. Many preparations are very effective. Determining the one most appropriate for each client is a challenge and should be approached in a clinical. Thus. 1. Benzoyl peroxide is an irritant that causes cell turnover and desquamation of the keratin plugs. 12 . Never do extraction prior to application of an acid. Cotton SWabs. you can break capillaries. observant. Organic oxides such as hydrogen peroxide kill bacteria on contact. 2. using an upward movement. LanCet or hypODerMiC neeDle eXtraCtion. A very effective pressure technique developed by Mark Lees involves the use of cotton swabs. Corundum powder. when used with pressure. Azelaic acid is an antibacterial and lifting agent. eXtraCtion The best time to do extraction is during a deep cleanse treatment that does not use acids. CoMeDone eXtraCtor. which is used in microdermabrasion. If the pressure is not right. Many recipes combine these ingredients. To ReDuCe SebaCeous ACtiVity The following ingredients are drying and therefore aid in the balance of sebaceous activity. Don’t forget home care topical agents as a support in the control of acne. Wrap fingers in gauze or cotton and apply pressure to lift out lesion. Polymerization locks in an acid’s pH. Obaji as a way to determine depth of penetration. Selecting the highest grade is important. and distilled water Phenol products are extremely toxic and pose considerable risk. Buffering —of an AHA keeps the pH at the desired acidity level. Buffering is a stabilizing technique. tartaric from grapes.peelin G aG ents StriCtly MeDiCal PeelinG AGents: Phenol acid (88% solution) Bakers Gordon—a combination of phenol. The Blue Peel was developed by Dr.5 to 3 is an effective range. septisol soap. Unnas resorcinol paste 5-Fluorouracil 20% to 50% TCA 20% + Azelaic acid 50% to 70% Glycolic acid pH—an acid pH from 2. SaliCyliC ACiD. The most commonly used are glycolic acid. Salicylic acid is extracted from wintergreen and birch. and citric acid. Azelaic acid is created by oxygenating oleic acid. its pH level has been brought to 7 and it is no longer an acid. tartaric acid. selfneutralizing. it is very effective in low strengths (5% to 15%) and it can be used either alone or in combination with other acids. Blue methinone dye is added to various strengths of TCA and applied in layers to create a deep peel. which comes from sugar cane. Consequently. It is used as an antibacterial. The highest grade is the ultra pure crystalline grade. namely as a remedy for rheumatic and gouty conditions. self-neutralizing. nontoxic organic acids. It is used as a food preservative and in the manufacture of aspirin. Trichloracetic acid will penetrate only if it is used in an aqueous base. yet is nontoxic. An example of a TCA peel is the Blue Peel. also requiring consideration are the following: TCA. One method of buffering is accomplished through a process called polymerization. AesthetiC Use PeelinG AGents: AHA s . and lifting agent. They can produce cardiac arrhythmia and are very toxic to liver and kidneys. 13 . Stabilizing —it is important for free acids to be stabilized. Up to 15% AZelaiC ACiD. lightening. Other AHAs are malic acid. Repeated applications of high-strength salicylic acid can result in systemic toxicity. and citric (which can sometimes be a beta acid) comes from citrus. and lactic acid. Naturally occurring. which is an unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats. Another way to stabilize acids besides buffering is to place them in an aqueous base. and keratolytic. The efficacy of an AHA is not solely based on the percentage. This is a beta-hydroxy acid that has been used medically for over 50 years. Neutralizing —when an AHA is neutralized. Malic comes from apples. which is derived from milk. It is a relatively safe. risk-free acid that has a drying and lifting effect on the skin. croton oil (which enhances the absorption of the phenol). It has a shorter shelf life than some acids. Grade —there are various grades of AHAs. Resorcinol has lifting properties. Type of applicator used (gauze. this acid would exfoliate without creating as many free radicals. A WorD About “L” & “D” MoleCules: When available. Thickness of skin. This is not proven. Max Jessner. L-Ascorbic Acid. FaCtors that affeCt perMeability of aCiDs: Percentages/pH of acid. The area being treated. Scientists theorized that when used on the skin. He originally used 14% salicylic acid. This all-natural acid was developed in a French lab where its antioxidant properties were discovered. D-Beta Fructan for the right side. similar results occur. How the skin is prepped. This is obtained from various resins. These are proteins that digest the cells of the stratum corneum. cotton swabs. Past animal studies have shown that Retin-A inhibits the development of skin tumors. L-Retinol for the left side and a “D”: D-Alpha Tocopherol. A resin is a brittle substance formed from the hardened secretion of plants. brush). Chirally correct is denoted by an “L”: L-Lactic. Patch testing is always recommended. Wine ACiD/ACetiC ACiD. it is simply a theory. This is a derivative of Vitamin A and an unquestionably effective treatment for sun-induced wrinkles and pigmentation associated with aging skin. but it can be toxic and can induce hyperpigmentation on certain skin types. The increased cell turnover that occurs with retinol results in a smoother. They are mirror images of each other. This was formulated by Dr. Other benefits include overall improvement of circulation and oxygenation and strengthening of skin blood vessels. How many layers are applied. silkier skin. thus causing less injury to the skin. 14 . Over 150 years ago. and 14% lactic acid. 14% resorcinol. who believed that combining lower-strength acids creates a synergy that results in a more efficient exfoliating agent with less risk of toxicity and complications. pepsin comes from the stomach lining of pigs and botanical plant sources and papain is from the papaya fruit. Pre-treating with home care acids. and it is the remaining portion of the molecule that is considered chirally correct. Since retinol changes because of enzyme activity to retinoic acid once it is applied. How often it has been applied to the skin. How long it is left on the skin. Nutrients and benefit-giving compounds are more effective when one portion of the molecule is removed. They originate in living cells. pre-cancerous lesions and actinic keratosis disappear.Retinol. Pressure used in applying the solution and the amount of solution used. ResorCinol. Pasteur while studying tartaric acid from wine making discovered that most organic molecules have two parts: a “left-handed” part and a “righthanded” part. Jessner. I recommend using chirally correct ingredients. EnZyMes. For example. Clients report a “healthy glow” as the result of retinol use. but one worth considering. With mid-depth treatments. vitamins and minerals for nutrition. removing damaged and dead cells with vacuum pressure. Fresh. I have found it to be a very effective combination. high-SPF sunblock every day. and confidence to understand and know the skin and its responses. Layering of any type. newly exposed skin will be delicate. derma-planing. should be left to those who have the training. to keep their skin well moisturized (particularly around the delicate eye area). prepping with other acid. healthier. wrinkles. swimming and tanning beds should be avoided for one week or longer. full-spectrum. and here is why: Microdermabrasion removes the surface cells of the stratum corneum.and beta. What to eXpeCt after MiCroDerMabrasion After a light treatment. and hyperpigmentation. the skin may feel tight and warm as if exposed to the sun or wind. Its overall result is that it leaves the skin smooth.M i C ro D er M abrasion What is MiCroDerMabrasion? Microdermabrasion consists of a jet of microcrystals which are propelled through a small. or mechanical exfoliants. or until the initial sensitivity has subsided. and hydrators to moisturize. pencil-like hand piece across the skin’s surface. with deep treatment levels (like those performed for scar tissue and stretch marks). It is important for treated clients to wash with only a mild cleanser. Because I use the Ultrapeel CrystalTM microdermabrasion machine. soft. lighteners to tone away hyperpigmentation. Renova. Retin-A.hydroxy products should be avoided. and some skins may peel. In this manner. UsinG ACiDs With MiCroDerMabrasion Some experts consider the use of acids with microdermabrasion to be controversial. It is an effective acne treatment and reduces scars. a treatment. and all alpha. you bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding or break the skin in any way. as should all forms of scrubs for at least 48 hours. However. stay away from layering. and to use a nonchemical. during the microdermabrasion treatment. No foundation make-up should be worn for at least 24 hours after 15 . you should NEVER use acids in conjunction with microdermabrasion if. it is important that you know the capabilities of your machine and work accordingly. slight blood spotting may occur. Treatment intensity ranges from light to deep and is determined by the number of passes performed. newly polished skin is more accepting of acids for further exfoliation. And when the powder is thoroughly removed (so that the skin cannot be scratched). hollow. whether chemical or mechanical. Every machine is different. experience. slight redness and swelling may appear. Healing ranges from no time for a light treatment to several days or longer for deep treatments. microdermabrasion is just another form of exfoliation that is no different than pre-treating with Retin-A. so I know how deep I am going with each pass. However. I am most familiar with the way it operates. and more youthful looking. therefore. And if you are just a beginner or you are not thoroughly confident. and wind burns. For myself and my clients the use of oxygen seems to provide another support for combatting the inevitable years of skin aging. it was from actual experiences with burn victims using hyperbaric oxygen that the idea developed to use oxygen on the skin. this method is a “tool” used in conjunction with other therapies and will certainly be as supportive as any facial treatment being done. there needs to be a slippery molecule. Unpolluted.o X yG en What Do We knoW about oXyGen? Oxygen is a life-sustaining element! Without oxygen we will cease to live . One primary reason is the delivery system . no energy. sun burns. Accepting the idea that the skin is transdermal and that under the right circumstances topicals will penetrate . constantly starving skin cells and tissues of oxygen. There has been much written on the depletion of oxygen in our atmosphere and the inadequate supply the body receives. chemical peels. as the last link within the oxygen capillary system.oxygen can only be inhaled. The medical community has shown and supports the use of hyperbaric oxygen and in fact. I would say that like other modalities we use. by itself it has no energy. skin renewal serums . nicotine patches. A second reason is the carriers used . All professionals agree oxygen is essential . microdermabrasion. more glowing skin. I have seen moister skin. as mentioned above . the appearance of healthier.many do not accept the theory that pure oxygen sprayed onto the skin in combination with myscelized nutrients will absorb and affect skin tissue. normal air contains approximately 21% oxygen. often does not have enough oxygen for the renewal process of healthy skin cells. and no regeneration can occur. and heard the ooohs and ahhhs of happy faces when being sprayed after laser. Spraying skin with O2 and vitamins is a skin enhancement that is safe and may be used on 16 Is it really true We are breathinG less oXyGen? Oxygen is the source of life and energy to all cells. This is where the controversy begins . I have read both sides for ten years but have yet to see any real studies done to admonish or support the use of oxygen and nutrients applied topically to the skin.there must be enough . Keep a proper perspective of how useful the right application of oxygen and nutrients will be . Oxygen is picked up by the hemoglobin and sent to all the cells in the body. Thirdly. When we inhale and exhale there is an exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen. Our skin.there are just different attitudes about ways of receiving it. it only becomes activated at the cell level where all metabolic functions happen.no metabolic function. Our bodies are 65% oxygen. O2 availability and utilization in our bodies decreases with age.why not antioxidants and oxygen? I have applied this modality to thousands of clients and myself for ten years. This is What I knoW froM personal eXperienCe anD obserVation. In all these years I have not had one negative reaction to the use of oxygen and vitamins and have not seen any signs of skin deterioration.for this reason I use the Oxiana System for optimum delivery.oxygen by itself would not penetrate the skin as the molecule is too large.for example hormonal creams. force to infuse the oxygen and nutrients into the skin. I have included it in many of my therapies. 17 . Due to the important changes I have seen using oxygen with chemical peels. There are alternate suggestions if you do not have this and it does not mean you will not be able to do the procedures.all skin types after many procedures. the use of certain medications. Indian Black 18 . always burns Tans with difficulty.fit Z patri C k C lassifi C ation The Fitzpatrick Classification is a useful general guideline. and I proceed with caution when applying any peeling agent. very rarely burns Never burns Skin Color White White White Moderate Brown Hispanic. but we must keep in mind that it was devised as a means to calibrate the skin’s responses to sun exposure. African. sun damage. I make it a point to examine each client’s skin to observe its responses. So. and any skin tone can develop hyperpigmentation due to estrogen intake. sometimes burns Easily tans. with regard to how one might respond to chemical peels and their risk of hyperpigmentation. and post inflammation from chemical peels. rarely burns Very easy to tan. ClassifiCation I II III IV V VI Response to UVR Never tans. Latin. usually burns Average tanning. Asian. I believe that any skin can burn. A peel the same day of waxing or other hair removal services. Give client an information sheet on treatment. there are protocols that you must follow and contraindications for the use of acids. allergic or otherwise. The client must be off of Retin-A for two weeks prior to the peel. MUST DO ProtoCols: Get appropriate training. A peel on anyone who has herpes without carefully discussing possible flare-ups. In the client consult. A peel the same day client has received Botox or other injectable procedures. (Some women experience increased discomfort if they have a peel during their menstrual cycle. do a complete skin assessment and take a skin history. heart disease. A peel on anyone who is under the care or supervision of a physician for his or her skin unless you consult with the physician. A peel on anyone who has high blood pressure. You want to know about any possible reactions. Get signed consent forms prior to treatment!!! Perform a patch test at least 48 hours before an acid treatment. A peel on the first visit. Have professional liability insurance. Do not use salicylic acid on anyone who is allergic to aspirin or is aspirin sensitive without a patch test. The exception to this is microdermabrasion used without acids. or any other serious illness without first consulting his or her physician. 19 . AHEAD of time. (I can’t stress this enough!) Make sure that you have the appropriate license for your state. A peel on someone who is pregnant or lactating. On someone who is taking Accutane.D o ’ s an D D ont ’ s When it comes to working ethically and effectively with acids. Have client sign sheets stating that he or she has received adequate instructions and understands them.) A peel on someone who is using Retin-A. Take before-and-after photographs. Determine whether or not the client would like to get a prescription from a physician to control a potential outbreak. Give client home-care instructions. diabetes. The client must be off of Accutane for at least six months prior to the peel. DO NOT DO: A peel on someone who has not completed aesthetician/client protocols. A peel on anyone who has unrealistic expectations. Cover client’s eyes with cotton eye pads to prevent any solution from getting into the eyes. Have a hand-held fan available with extra batteries. Have a timer. Wear disposable surgical gloves. There also seems to be less heat intensity with this position than when fully reclined. as you observe and examine your client’s skin. Know exactly what you are going to do. take a moment to clarify your intent. Read protocol thoroughly. Have eye wash handy in case anything does get into the eyes. and your intention should always be to nurture your client’s skin to an optimal state of health and beauty. Be prepared in case of a reaction—have ice. swabs) Have all of the required ingredients laid out and organized. Use sterile applicators (brush. prior to any treatment.D o ’ s an D D ont ’ s First and foremost. Before beginning a treatment. cold packs. or cold water as well as anti-inflammatory and anti-itching topicals available. which keeps the blood from flowing to the head and prevents lightheadedness when the client sits up at the end of the treatment. When in doubt—don’t do it!!!! 20 . gauze. it is important that you: Make sure that your client is in a semi-reclined position. ask yourself: “What are my client’s needs? Long term? Today? How can I help? What is the best treatment I can give today with complete confidence? Is this a treatment to which my client will be receptive? Is this the treatment that will produce the best possible result for my client?” Once you have clarified your intent and you know exactly what you need to do to attain the best results. Success is grounded in intent. hold skin taut. 21 . press firmly into skin and pull back across the skin. Always apply acids to a dry surface. Even saturation is important and that is why alternating directions of application are recommended. *Eyes are covered and protected. and with a firm touch begin removing the enzyme. Eyes are cleansed with a gentle cleanser. neck. Pour the solution being used onto a 2” gauze (wear surgical gloves for this applications) and lay the gauze on the forehead. Rinse several times. Removal of cleanser is best when using wet 4x4 gauze this wipes away and lifts residue and allows you to see how clean the skin is. The cleansing step must be thorough and complete covering the entire area of the face. Feel the skin after cleansing . Your focus and approach are critical and begins the moment you place your hands on the client’s face. Use wet gauze. The success of your peel is often due to the pressure applied. Lipid removal is a necessary step in preparing skin for any peel. and firm pressure is used. unless there is a reason not to.te C hni Q ue A treatment is only as good as the therapist delivering it. This is important to understand and to be aware of the effect your application will have on the outcome of a procedure. I have listed key points that must be considered for optimum results. mask. Acid application is applied evenly to all areas of skin. and if you have achieved a squeaky clean surface.this gives you information about the texture. oil/moisture. What you use on the skin becomes an extension of you and your natural healing skills. and ears. Removing preparations from the skin thoroughly between steps is the difference between a good peel and irritation/rash. or other mixtures from the skin before moving to another step. Cleanse skin with moistened hands and appropriate cleanser. Deep. the skin becomes brown and crusty and somewhat unsightly. TreatMent preppinG MethoD increases the depth of the peel. and deep. The higher the percentage. Retinol. and exfoliation occurs within two to three days after application. They can also be used as good “lead-ins” to mid or deep peels. 2. 1. They are not to be confused with medical or physician-strength peels that affect the reticular dermis. the skin will experience a mild sloughing. they do not penetrate beyond the epidermis or papillary dermis. These topicals tend to make the skin more receptive to acids. The nuMber of tiMes the skin and the types of peels used.” I am still referring to a superficial peel. sensitive.treat M ent intensities All of the treatment procedures that I am using and recommending are considered superficial. Deep peels are often used as a prep for medical peels by physicians. because generally on days three or four. when I say a peel is “deep. 22 . or hyperpigmented. AMount of solution and even distribution on face. and the lower the pH. This refers to a treatment that does not usually cause immediate exfoliation and only removes the stratum corneum. In general. When determining what treatment intensity to use. 7. which occurs three to four days after application. For best results. Peeling consists of light flaking similar to a sunburn peel. 6. The type of skin whether the skin is thin. it is most important to meticulously examine the skin and assess its condition. The skin goes through very little down time. As treatments are repeated. 3. thick. The entire process takes about seven to ten days. Mid-depth peels can usually be done monthly for as long as needed. acne. T he strenGth of the solution useD percentage & pH. So. These peels affect the deepest intra-epidermal layers. thin skins respond well to progressive treatment while thick skins may need a mid-depth treatment to achieve exfoliation. LenGth of tiMe solution is left on the skin. has been peeled MiD-Depth. the more intense the treatment solution. These peels can be done six weeks apart. oily. There is some down time. but it is not recommended to do more than three or four in a year. an aggressive prep 5. The skin peels in large segments as opposed to flaking. 4. These peels affect the intra-epidermal layer. and Retin-A. Other factors to take into consideration include: ProGressiVe. The skin undergoes considerable peeling. middepth. a series of three to six treatments should be performed one to two weeks apart. HoMe Care use of AHA s . My superficial treatments fall under the following designated intensities: progressive. thus making a less intense treatment more aggressive. I use a soft camel-hair brush with thick mixtures and rely on time for penetration to occur. In most cases I prefer using a gauze and I like distributing solutions with firm. MethoD of appliCation and the pressure used. even pressure. Saturating a gauze with the solution and rubbing it in allows the skin to absorb more of the solution. 23 . I also like to work in a crisscross pattern when layering an acid.8. because I find this to be an effective way to get an even distribution. How much solution the skin absorbs is totally dependent on the efficacy of the ingredients in the solution. Swabbing and using a soft brush will gently lay solution on the skin. These thick mixtures are usually self-neutralizing and thus easy to monitor. Italian Herbal Peel™ 33. Pumpkin Delight™ 30. Micro Maui Peel 110 113 116 120 124 127 130 133 136 SensitiVe Skin 12. Quick Fix™ 3. "A" Youthful Source 62 65 68 HyperpiGMentATION 15. Pumpkin Body Peel 39. Retinol Peptide Peel 40. Kojic Clay TCA Acne 27. Young Again Peel™ 31. Lotus Peel 5. The Epi Glow Peel™ 14. Brighten Up™ 17. Firming & Toning Peel™ 29. Dermazyme Peel™ 13. Magic Combo™ 22. Skin Recovery Peel™ 4. The Crystal Clear Peel™ 25. Rosacea Peel™ 35. The Melanin Lift™ 19. The Antiox Peel™ 21.proto C ols ClassiCs 1. The Refresher Peel™ 44 47 ACne Skin 24. The Detox Peel™ 26. Double Peptide Sake Peel 9. Fade A Peel™ 18. Wine Luster Body Peel 38. Micro Blast PAGE 87 90 93 95 Dry Skin 6. Radiance Peel™ 36. Perk Me Up™ 7. The Wine Peel™ 50 53 56 59 MORE PEELS 28. Alpha Hydroxy Acid Relay 2. "A" Baby Boomer Peel™ 11. Skin Awakening Peel ™ 10. Paramedical 4-Layer Peel 32. Micro Body Treatment 140 143 146 149 24 . DN-Age APeel PaGe 28 31 34 37 41 Oily Skin 20. Kojic Clay Lightening Peel 16. The Hot Tomato Peel™ 98 101 104 107 aGinG Skin 8. Crystal Bright Peel™ 71 74 77 80 83 BODY PEELS 37. “A” Peroxide Peel™ 23. Hibiscus Flower Acid Peel 34. lacking stimulation. fine lines. All Quick Fix™ 2 MID 31 Thick. comedones. darker combination skin. Skin Type treatMent (Not skin tone) # Ints. uneven tone. Aging The Wine Peel™ 11 DEEP 59 Lines. coarse.treat M ents at a G lan C e There are no hard and fast rules for what procedure to use in a given situation because every client’s skin is different and responds differently at different times. fine lines. sensitive. All Skin Recovery Peel™ 3 DEEP 34 Dull. wrinkles. coarse. Dry Perk Me Up™ 6 PRO 44 Dehydrated. PAGE InDiCation All Alpha Hydroxy Acid Relay 1 PRO 28 Photo-aged. normal skin rejuvenation and maintenance. combination skin.enough to make a difference for that skin type. large pores. dull. All DN-Age APeel 5 MID 41 Dull. Aging “A” Baby Boomer Peel™ 10 MID 56 Dull. needs stimulation. photo-aged. coarseness. Aging Skin Awakening Peel™ 9 MID 53 Uneven texture. combination skin. Use the following table as a starting point. normal skin rejuvenation and maintenance. PRO = progressive. dry acne. combination skin. combination skin. congested. congestion. MID = mid-depth. pigmented. All Lotus Peel 4 DEEP 37 Dull. sensitive with visible capillaries. impure skin. photo-damage. sun pigmentation. fine lines. photo-aged. excess oil. tired. oily. oily. no sparkle. use it as a way to get a better “feel” for what a treatment can do. Dry The Refresher Peel™ 7 PRO 47 Dehydrated. uneven tone. fine lines. fine lines. dead skin build-up. unhealthy skin tone. aged. oily. normal skin rejuvenation and maintenance. infected lesions. coarse. fine lines. 25 . Some procedures may only have a slight variation . Aging Double Peptide Sake Peel 8 MID 50 Very dehydrated. slackened. comedones. sensitive with visible capillaries. combination skin. thick. scar tissue. uneven tone. congested. dull. dehydration. 26 . dull. combination skin that is not to oily. has enlarged pores and uneven skin tone. hyperpigmentation. oily aged skin. congested. discoloration from lesions. coarse texture. Sensitive The Epi Glow Peel™ 13 PRO 65 Tired. epidermal pigmentation. enlarged pores. large pores. dead skin buildup. combination skin. large pores. lacking hydration and stimulation. lesions. photo-damaged. skin that needs lightening. unhealthy skin tone. Oily “A” Peroxide Peel™ 22 MID 93 Sebaceous. fine lines. oily. PAGE InDiCation Sensitive Dermazyme Peel™ 12 PRO 62 Dehydration. dehydration. bacteria. Hyperpigmented Brighten Up™ 16 PRO 74 Discoloration. broken capillaries. fine lines. Sensitive "A" Youthful Source 14 PRO 68 Exposed capillaries. impactions. redness. Hyperpigmented Kojic Clay Lightening Peel 15 MID 71 Dull. Acne The Crystal Clear Peel™ 24 PRO 98 Acne. large pores. Hyperpigmented Fade A Peel™ 17 PRO 77 Sluggish circulation. congested. slackened. young teenage acne. oily. flare-ups. prone to break outs. fine lines. sallow skin tone. Hyperpigmented The Melanin Lift™ 18 MID 80 Discoloration. fine lines. Oily Magic Combo™ 21 PRO 90 Sebaceous congestion.Skin Type treatMent (Not skin tone) # Ints. Hyperpigmented Crystal Bright Peel™ 19 DEEP 83 Stubborn pigmented spots. combination skin. thick. dehydrated. thick. dull. continual eruptions. congested. dead skin buildup. uneven tone. coarse. fine lines. photo-damaged. decreased elasticity. dull skin tone. uneven skin tone. rough texture. Oily Micro Blast 23 DEEP 95 Sebaceous. impactions. tired. Oily The Antiox Peel™ 20 PRO 87 Sebaceous. congested lesions. dehydration. Fine lines. impure. cellular build-up. dull skin tone. Coarse texture. hyperpigmented. Rough texture. enlarged pores. sensitive skin./Acne Italian Herbal Peel™ 32 PRO 124 Sensitive Hibiscus Flower Acid Peel 33 PRO 127 Sensitive Rosacea Peel™ 34 PRO 130 Aging Radiance Peel™ 35 PRO 133 All Skins Micro Maui Peel 36 PRO 136 All Skins Wine Luster Body Peel 37 PRO 140 All Skins Pumpkin Body Peel 38 PRO 143 All Skins Retinol Peptide Peel 39 PRO 146 All Skins Micro Body Treatment 40 PRO 149 27 . rough texture. Dry. discoloration. inflamed congested lesions. sallow skin tone. dehydrated. Acne. oily. rough texture. fine lines. dry. combination skin. coarse texture. dehydrated skin. Photo-aged. dehydrated skin. pebbly congestion. excess oil production. cellular buildup. rough texture. uneven skin tone. impactions. oily. uneven skin tone. dulled. dehydrated. sun-damaged. Photo-aged. environmentally damaged. inflamed congested lesions. inflammed. Sun damaged. sensitive. sun damaged. Acne. uneven texture. PAGE InDiCation Acne. Broken capillaries. dehydrated. oily. dead skin buildup. cellular buildup. dull skin tone. hyperpigmented. Oily. dull skin tone. dehydrated. cellular build-up. rosacea-prone. slackedned. dull complexion. skin impurities. dull skin tone. combination skin . Scarred. pigmentation. Acne The Detox Peel™ 25 MID 101 Acne Kojic Clay TCA Acne 26 MID 104 Acne All Skins Normal-Oily All Skins The Hot Tomato Peel™ Firming & Toning Peel™ Pumpkin Delight™ Young Again Peel™ 27 28 29 30 MID MID PRO DEEP 107 110 113 116 (*Not skin sensitive) Aging Paramedical 4-Layer Peel 31 MID 120 Comb. dull skin tone. Uneven skin tone. slackened skin. uneven texture. photo-aged.Skin Type treatMent (Not skin tone) # Ints. impacted pores. Rough texture. redness. dehydrated. Sun damaged. impure. fine lines. fine lines. bacterial-prone. unhealthy skin tones. fine lines.oily T zone. dead skin buildup. slackened. uneven skin tone. 00 28 .CLASSICS 1 . acne skin. Rejuvenate tired photo-damaged skin.$85. For AHA loving skin. eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $45.00 . page 17). InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash (or other preferred RA cleanser) 20% Glycolic Acid 25% AHA Gel 20% L-Lactic Acid Omega 6 EFA Rosemary Basil Mask or Honey Paprika Mask Growth Factor Serum. this quick. easy treatment is beneficial for oily. alpha hy D ro X y aC i D R E L AY Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. May be offered in a series of 3 consecutive treatments. Goals: Smooth and soften surface build-up. sun-damaged thick skin and smoker’s skin. Support the healing of problematic skin. Reduce corneocyte cohesion. Begin the rejuvenation process and assist in loosening impacted comedones. The more a skin has been treated with AHA. Time is also conditional to skin thickness. Wear surgical gloves. R elay one Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid. may do some light extractions at this time. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. 2 . 29 . P rep the skin Cleanse skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash.CLASSICS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Remove in 3 to 5 minutes. Give client hand-held fan. Apply neutralizing solution and make sure removal is complete. Remove glycolic solution with tepid water and blot skin dry. Apply an even amount on entire face and neck. relay t W o If appropriate. while a thicker skin may be able to tolerate 5 minutes. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel. Rinse skin several times with water for a thorough removal. Continue to work this into the skin with gauze for 1 minute. Blot skin dry and check with client to see if there is any feeling of solution on the skin. a thin skin may only need solution on for 3 minutes. and apply to skin with firm pressure for the removal of excess lipids. and rinse well with warm water and gauze sponges. the less time it can tolerate. The solution must be completely rinsed away. Client should not use harsh scrubs or home care exfoliants for 1 week. Makeup may be worn following treatment (natural powdered mineral foundation is recommended).) Blend into skin with a heated cloth (not too hot) and absorb excess.CLASSICS 3 . (Avoid eye area. This remains on skin. relay three Mix 3-4 drops of 20% L-Lactic Acid with 3-4 drops of Omega 6 EFA or Growth Factor Serum and massage into skin. Apply an even layer of Rosemary Basil Mask to skin (Honey Paprika Mask may be used for photo-aged skin) and leave on skin for 10 minutes. Client should use an Epidermal Growth Factor preparation and sun protection daily! 30 . Finish with the appropriate topical (Growth Factor Serum. no scrubs or home exfoliants should be used during the entire 3 to 6 weeks. Remove completely and blot skin dry. If this is the case. Treatment may be repeated weekly or every other week for 3 to 6 weeks. 4 . P ost C A R E Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF 30). Q ui C k fi X ™ Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Overall. Minimize fine lines. effective. and uncomplicated treatment that I have been doing for a long time. Although most skin types will benefit. it could be referred to as an “acne tune-up” for problematic.00 31 . baking soda to 1 cup of water or club soda) Melanin Suppressant Solution Salicylic Solution ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 20 . It takes a short time to perform and is well tolerated by the client. Start the rejuvenation process with a brisk. Support the control of acne.CLASSICS 2 .30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $75.$105. this is a safe. light exfoliation.00 . page 17). acne-prone skin. Goals: Refine and improve skin tone. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical 20% Glycolic Acid Neutralizing Solution (1tsp. a thin skin may only need solution on for 2 minutes.CLASSICS P ro C e D ure : 1 . club soda) and make sure removal is complete. Blot skin dry. P re . and apply to skin with firm pressure for the removal of excess lipids. Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid .apply an even amount on face and neck. P rep the skin Cleanse the skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse thoroughly. Time is also conditional to skin thickness. the less time it can tolerate. the amount of time solution will be left on the skin will be less. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical. as treatments continue.P eel A ppli C ation Give client hand-held fan. Remove in 3 to 5 minutes. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. The more a skin has been treated with Glycolic Acid. 2 . Apply neutralizing solution (1 tsp. 32 . Therefore. baking soda to 1 cup water or. Wear surgical gloves. while a thicker skin may be able to tolerate longer. It is best not to apply anything else to the skin. Day 2 TO 3—Client may experience mild exfoliation. Normal cleansing routine may resume the next day. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Salicylic Solution. This is a self-neutralizing solution so it remains on the skin. Wait several minutes between layers. P eel A ppli C ation Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto a 2-inch gauze and apply evenly to face and neck.CLASSICS 3 . It is best to do nothing to the skin for the first 12 to 24 hours. 4 . Let absorb and do not remove. If done progressively. for 3 to 4 sessions. apply 3 layers of Salicylic Solution to face and only 2 layers to neck. 33 . Let these layers absorb. Following the recommended crisscross application technique. sunscreen or powdered minerals may be necessary depending on time of day since skin will be very sun sensitive. This treatment may be repeated in 2 weeks. however. Use Growth Factor Gel or Growth Factor Serum. be aware that the skin’s ability to absorb Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Solution increases with each application and therefore each peel will be more intense. P ost P E E L The skin may be slightly tender and pink. $200. Improve the overall tone and health of the skin. Smooth and soften fine lines. Begin the repair of photo-damaged skin.00 34 . The first layers begin the process of cell desquamation with low strength acids – the final peel solution works hard to break down damaged skin cells and inhibit tyrosinase activity. This peel uses two variations of TCA solutions. page 17). Goals: Stimulate and encourage new cell regeneration.00 . InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash 20% Glycolic Acid Melanin Suppressant Solution 10% TCA/AHA Salicylic Solution ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $175. skin re C o V ery peel ™ Requires Classroom-Educational Training. Intensity: Deep InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.CLASSICS 3 . Lighten skin tone. begin rinsing acid from skin. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads.4” gauze dampened with water. LAYER 4: Apply a layer of Salicylic Solution to the skin. mix 1 dropper of Melanin Suppressant Solution with 4-5 droppers of 10% TCA/AHA. and apply to skin with firm pressure for the removal of excess lipids. Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid. ONCE SKIN BEGINS TO FROST. P eel A ppli C ation Give client hand-held fan. IMPORTANT: Be sure you are observing skin responses and know it is okay to continue. Wear surgical gloves. P rep the skin Cleanse the skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse well. LAYER 2: Re-saturate gauze and apply a layer in the opposite direction. The purpose is to rub away loosened skin cells before final peel application. In a glass beaker. Using the crisscross technique. apply 3 layers of acid and lightening mixture: LAYER 1: Saturate 2-inch gauze with 10% TCA Solution and apply a layer in one direction. Observe skin and wait about 2 minutes before removal. let it absorb for about 30 seconds. Let absorb into skin. Using two . 35 . 2. Blot skin dry before using next acid. STOP APPLYING LAYERS. LAYER 3: Apply a final layer of 10% TCA Solution in the same direction as the first layer. Observe skin before proceeding.CLASSICS P ro C e D ure : 1. Remove in 2 to 3 minutes with warm water and gauze. apply a thin layer of Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve under eyes and on lips. Post follow-up visit is an absolute must. This is the end of the treatment. and exfoliation will take place. include Calming Skin Gel to add to post care and for excessive redness/heat recommend Sea Gems. NOTE: If client has swelling or itching. apply Epidermal Growth Factor. 36 . Call your client within 24 hours. DAY 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. All layers remain on the skin. When skin does begin to peel. Growth Factor Gel or Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Continue with lubricating post care until skin begins to peel. DAY 6 AND 7—The Client will wear Regenerating Cream. P O S T P eel Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. continue to apply Post Balm/Pro Salve. DAY 3 TO 5—Skin will start to turn darker in color. DAY 2—Skin will be red and tender and will feel dry and tight. Lubricate skin with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment/Pro Salve. 3 . if it has a stinging sensation to new tender skin – mix with Arnica Therapy or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment to reduce tingle until the skin is used to it.CLASSICS Continue an alternating pattern with final 2 layers of Salicylic Solution. Intensity: Deep InDiCations: For any skin type that falls under the Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick III classifications (see Fitzpatrick Chart. The name comes from the Lotus Flower root that is a free radical scavenger and promotes lightening. Improve texture and tone. LOT U S P E E L Requires Classroom-Educational Training. The overall outcome is a healthier.40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $275. page 17). This is a custom peel formula that is a version of the original Jessner. additionally. Active acids are Salicylic and Resorcinol and D-Gluconic Acid.CLASSICS 4 . a patented natural amino acid compound that performs well in a low pH is part of the solution.00 37 . InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Hibiscus Peel 10% TCA/AHA Lotus Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 . more vibrant skin. Brighten and lighten skin. Goals: Diminish and smooth fine lines. Saturate 2-inch gauze with the Hibiscus Peel and apply evenly to face and neck. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin with very firm pressure. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads.P eel A ppli C ation Give client hand-held fan.CLASSICS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Wear surgical gloves. Let absorb into skin and wait 2-3 minutes then brush away with slightly damp gauze. Let remain on skin – do not remove. Let absorb into skin and wait 2-3 minutes before beginning peel application. Rinse with tepid water. P R E . Skin will redden. this lotion may get very warm for about 1-2 minutes. 2 . 38 . Saturate 2-inch gauze with the 10% TCA/AHA and apply evenly to face and neck. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Blot skin dry. Give client hand-held fan. Do not be alarmed. Do a second cleanse if necessary. Apply one layer in one direction. Make sure that you evenly distribute solution on skin. If more peeling is desired. 39 . Continue application with 2-inch gauze saturated with Lotus Peel. STOP applying layers. Never do more than 8 layers. Have client sit up and wait for about 15 minutes before leaving. Apply four to eight layers with the crisscross technique. This remains on the skin. Lubricate eye area and lips with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. P eel A ppli C ation Pour a small amount of Lotus Peel into a glass beaker: use a firm brush for the first layer. Be aware of excess solution—do not drip on client! Starting at forehead. let it absorb for about 30 seconds. apply an even application of solution. (Once the skin begins to frost. this is a more vulnerable area to toxicity and over saturation. Let this absorb – wait 30 seconds between layers. Observe skin and wait about 30 seconds to begin fourth layer.CLASSICS 3. Second layer is in opposite direction. Apply third layer in the same direction as first and continue with this technique.) NOTE: Do not do more than 3 layers on the neck. finish neck with a thin layer of Vitamin A + Peptide Peel. Day 3 TO 5—Skin will start to turn darker in color. Day 3 TO 7— Client will wear Regenerating Cream (EGF) or Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Calming Skin Gel will reduce itching and may be mixed in with any post care topical. DAY 2—Skin will be red and tender and will feel dry and tight. P O S T P eel Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. 40 .CLASSICS 4. client may continue using Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. Arnica Therapy is very soothing and reduces discomfort and inflammation. Apply Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve on face and neck. Day 7 -– Post follow-up visit is an absolute must. DAY 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. and exfoliation will take place. D N . in particular.CLASSICS 5 .AG E A P E E L Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Support repair of cellular damage and increase collagen production. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Hibiscus Peel Lotus Peel + Vitamin A Peptide Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 . this peel trio impacts skin at a cellular level to reverse aging.00 41 . Help smooth and even skin tone and balance oil production. It is a great treatment to include décolleté for total rejuvenation. Goals: Create a superficial exfoliation that renews and freshens the skin. This is a multi-layered peel using 3 different peels.40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $225. page 17). and apply to face and neck with very firm pressure to decrease the skin. and décolleté. neck. décolleté. This peel is not designed to frost. LOT U S P E E L Pour Lotus Peel into a beaker and using a firm brush apply one even layer to face. Let this absorb and remain on skin. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Fruit Acid Botanical. however. Give client hand-held fan and put on surgical gloves for the remaining treatment steps. and rinse well with warm water and gauze sponges.CLASSICS P ro C e D ure : 1 . if it does in one layer. Pour a small amount of Hibiscus Peel into a beaker and saturate 2” gauze with peel mixture. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. P rep the skin Cleanse skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash. it is recommended to not do the final application. Wait 1 to 2 minutes before the peel application. Do a second cleanse if necessary. Let this remain on the skin. Apply 1 even layer to face. Rinse with tepid water. 42 . Blot skin dry. neck. Let this fully absorb and observe skin. HIBISCUS PEEL 3 . 2. Have client sit up for about 5 minutes before leaving. Call client within 24 hours and do a post peel follow-up in 7-10 days. TIP: After the peel is complete. 5. Work into skin with gloved hands until almost completely gone. Day 2 to 4 .There will be mild exfoliation. Day 5 to 7 . have client use Peptide 38 and Sea Gems for continued regeneration. This remains on the skin. client will apply Arnica Therapy and Daytime Defense SPF30. POST PEEL 43 . This treatment may be repeated in 4 to 6 weeks. client may want to apply Post Balm or Pro Salve. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for two weeks.As the skin becomes dryer and tighter. Day 1 .CLASSICS 4 . Begin use of Growth Factor Serum mixed with Arnica or Post Balm. V I TA M I N A + P E P T I De peel Remove a small amount of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel and apply an even layer to entire area being treated.The skin may feel tight and be slightly pink. This is a great. quick and easy treatment that makes a real difference in the skin. Infuse skin with antioxidants. InGreDients: Citrus Gel Cleanser / 20% L-Lactic Acid Apple Wine Peel Oxiana Oxygen Spray / Vitamins or Pumpkin E Serum and Milk Mask Ice Globes Therapy E Serum / Sea Gems Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. the skin takes on a renewed glow and sparkle. adding nutrients and hydration.00 44 .$105. Remove surface skin cells to smooth and soften skin. perk M e up ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.00 . Goals: Give skin a boost. page 17). Using wine extracts and AHA.D ry skin 6 . set timer and remove in 5 minutes. Wear surgical gloves. 3. P rep the skin Squeeze Citrus Gel Cleanser into hand and add a dropper of 20% L-Lactic Acid. Rinse skin several times to insure a thorough removal. laC ti C AC i D A ppli C ation Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply a liberal amount to face and neck. Rinse and remove from skin with tepid water and gauze sponge. A pple W ine peel Give client hand-held fan.Lactic Acid with wet gauze and flush skin with tepid water. Blot skin dry. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Remove 20% L. Rinse well and blot skin dry. Pour Apple Wine Peel into a beaker and saturate 2-inch gauze with solution. 45 . Leave it on for 5-7 minutes. Cleanse thoroughly. working into skin for several minutes. Apply to skin with firm pressure. Apply 1 more layer of Apple Wine Peel. Client’s skin will feel tingly and prickly. 2 . Continue to smooth acid into skin for about 3 minutes.D ry skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . Lightly blend in Sea Gems and Therapy E Serum. it is not recommended for your client to use scrubs or home care acids such as AHA and retinol.D ry skin N utrient A ppli C ation — O ption 1 Spray skin with Oxygen and Vitamin Solution for 5-10 minutes. Wrap face and neck with a hot compress. Natural mineral foundation is suggested. Lay 4-inch gauze on upper and lower face. these topicals are not used during the time (1 . 46 . Usually. Lay heated gauze on skin to remove excess oil. P ost P E E L Skin will be glowing and moist. Roll chilled Ice Globes over skin for several minutes. Instruct client to use a Growth Factor preparation and Sunscreen daily. Scoop out 2 tsps. Saturate every pore. Sea Gems. Remove with tepid water and finish skin with Therapy E Serum. Mask remains on skin for 10 minutes. Client may continue usual home care regimen. and Daytime Defense SPF30. depending on skin condition and ultimate skin care goal. Makeup may be worn if so desired.3 months) treatments are being administered. of cooled Milk Mask using a soft brush to spread on an even layer. N utrient A ppli C ation — O ption 2 Massage skin with Pumpkin E Serum for as long as desired. Finish with Daytime Defense SPF30. However. 4 . It has regenerating.$200. antibacterial.D ry skin 7 . Stimulate cellular activity.00 47 .00 . InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser H2O2 Emulsion Microdermabrasion Citrus Gel Cleanser / 20% L-Lactic Acid MVC Serum / Omega 6 EFA Natural Lift Activator Oxiana Oxygen Spray / Vitamins (OPTIONAL) Antioxidant Complex Serum / Growth Factor Serum Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 50 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $175. the refresher peel ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick V (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Goals: Improve skin tone and lighten pigmentation. and lightening properties. mechanical exfoliation. Hydrate and smooth complexion. This treatment utilizes three key components – increasing blood flow to improve sluggish circulation. page 17). and saturation of tissue with pure oxygen. avoid eyes. MICRODERMABRASION Prepare client for microdermabrasion . Rinse skin with warm water. 2. Rinse well. Rinse well with warm water a couple times. and rinse well. Blot skin dry and brush away any excess. 48 . P rep the skin Cleanse thoroughly with Pumpkin Cleanser. of H2O2 Emulsion (be sure to burp container before flipping top as pressure builds with this mixture).place drops in eyes. Do 1 . Blot skin dry. Repeat cleanse step – working cleanser deeper into skin. and let remain on skin for 5 minutes. Apply a thin layer to face and neck. Remove 1 tsp. Steam and massage skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser. buff skin with corundum powder. Be sure to remove all the powder.D ry skin P ro C e D ure : 1 .2 complete passes. Do not bring to pinpoint bleeding. cover hair and ears. blot skin dry before proceeding to next step. 49 . Caution: Even though these treatments are relatively risk free. Makeup may be worn if so desired. wet compress. Remove towel and gauze in 5 minute.D ry skin 3 . N utrient A ppli C ation Apply cocktail of MVC Serum and Omega 6 EFA and blend into skin. A C i D A ppli C ation Cover client’s eyes with eye pads and give client the hand fan. Leave it on for 3-5 minutes. Mix 2 drops of Antioxidant Complex Serum and 2 drops of Growth Factor Serum. Cover face with sterile gauze soaked in Natural Lift Activator (humectant) and wrap face and neck with a heated. depending on skin condition and ultimate skin care goal. 5 . Client may continue usual home care regimen. Blot dry. Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply a liberal amount to face and neck. you must assess if it is safe and appropriate for your client to use home care acids such as AHAs and retinol. OPTIONAL: Spray skin with Oxygen and Vitamin Solution. This makes a good series treatment or monthly treatment. I like to work this into skin – wear a surgical glove. 4 . Natural mineral foundation is suggested. However. P ost P E E L Skin will be glowing and moist. Client’s skin will feel tingly and prickly. apply to skin and finish with Daytime Defense SPF30. Remove 20% L-Lactic Acid and flush skin with tepid water. make sure to observe the skin for any indication of reactions. 45 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $110.AGING SKIN 8.$150.00 . Minimize fine lines. When working with Fitzpatrick IV and higher. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash or Pumpkin Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical Cell Conditioner Sake Peel + Vitamin A Peptide Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 . Goals: Firm slackened tissue. there are no absolutes . the Sake Peel and Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel and is good for all skin types.always begin slowly and proceed with caution. page 17). DOUBLE PEPTIDE SAKE PEEL Intensity: Moderate Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Improve skin tone and texture. Balance hydration and sebaceous activity.00 50 . This is a blend of two new RA formulations. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and go over skin with firm pressure. apply an even layer with firm pressure to skin. P rep the skin Cleanse thoroughly with Glycolic Herbal Wash or Pumpkin Cleanser. unusual swelling. work into skin for several minutes and rinse well.P E E L Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. apply one even layer to face and neck. Pour a small amount of Sake Peel into a glass beaker. Let this absorb and wait about 1-2 minutes to observe skin. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner and apply evenly to face and neck. rash. or extreme frosting. The purpose is to lift sebum from pores and degrease skin. NOTE: If there is any irritation. DO NOT continue with step 4. Let this absorb and remain on skin. Let solution process and absorb. Be sure eyes are protected and client is in a semi- reclined position. 3. 2 . SAKE PEEL Give client the hand fan. only apply in the opposite direction for thorough saturation. LAYER 2 – Dip 2-inch gauze into beaker and saturate. P re .AGING SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . Using a firm brush. LAYER 3 – Repeat another layer. 51 . Let this remain on skin overnight. irritation). swelling. No cell rejuvenators . itchiness. Make-up may be worn if desired (recommend natural pigment mineral foundation). Do not overwork into skin. POST PEEL Instruct client to avoid sun exposure and not to pick skin. Client may use Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Arnica Therapy or Drop of Essence Hydration Drops the first 3 days.AHAs. When exfoliation begins (mild flaking) client will use an Epidermal Growth Factor. 5. make sure to observe the skin for any indication of reactions (rash. retinol.AGING SKIN 4 . hives. beta acid . Caution: Even though these treatments are relatively risk free. Client may continue with usual home regimen you have recommended. Vita M in A + P epti D e P eel Smooth an even layer of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel onto face and neck. 52 . To assist removal of skin.these products should not be used during treatment program. on DAY 4-5 client may use Derma Peel at home. The Liquid Enzyme Peel is very unique and has fast-acting results in loosening and digesting dead skin cells. and uneven skin tone. Improves impure skin conditions.00 53 . skin aWakenin G peel ™ Intensity: Aggressive Progressive to Mid Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. give skin a brisk exfoliation and strengthen skin tissue resulting in a healthier.AGING SKIN 9 . skin will be awakened and have a more youthful glow. As the name suggests. page 17). With dark skin tones there are no absolutes. This is a good peel to reduce cellular build-up.) InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser Brightening Scrub 25% AHA Gel Liquid Enzyme Peel Vitamin A Peel Omega 6 EFA ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $100.$125. fine lines.00 . more alive skin. (This treatment may be done monthly for continued rejuvenation. Goals: Gradually take the skin to a more optimal state of health and improved appearance. start slowly and proceed with caution. Work this into skin with gauze for about 1-2 minutes. Pour Liquid Enzyme Peel into a glass beaker and apply 1 layer with a firm brush. Rinse skin with tepid water and gauze sponges. brush away excess beads. Wait 5 minutes.AGING SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . Smooth in evenly. Rinse skin with warm water and gauze sponges.saturate 2-inch gauze with Liquid Enzyme Peel and apply to face and neck. Give client hand fan. Skin will feel silky and smooth. Apply 2nd layer . Remove completely with warm water and gauze. L i Q ui D E n Z y M e P eel A ppli C ation 54 . Blot skin dry. 2 . P rep A ppli C ation Cover client’s eyes with eye pads. Wait 5 minutes. 3 . Saturate 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and apply evenly to skin. Rinse skin several times and pat dry. P rep the skin Cleanse thoroughly with Pumpkin Cleanser and rinse well. Do 2 rinses for a thorough removal. Massage skin with a generous amount of Brightening Scrub for several minutes. This will activate mixture and it becomes hotter. apply Growth Factor Serum or Serum Plus with Elite eEGF and Daytime Defense SPF30 for more mature skins. The following morning. Normal to combination skin may use Growth Factor Gel and eZinc Protection Cream. P ost P E E L Skin will have a slight yellow tone and feel somewhat tacky.AGING SKIN 4 . This is to remain on skin overnight and should be explained prior to peel. P eel A ppli C ation Drop several drops of Vitamin A Peel onto skin and blend in. 55 . Smooth in 3-4 drops of Omega 6 EFA. client may do a mild cleanse. 5 . NOTE: If skin is tight or sensitive – recommend Pro Salve or Arnica Therapy. Caution: Even though these treatments are relatively risk free. make sure to observe the skin for any indication of reaction. Nothing is done to skin the first 24 hours. $150.AGING SKIN 1 0 . Goals: Create a light. superficial exfoliation and stimulation of the skin to: Improve and firm skin tone. "A" baby boo M er peel ™ Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Reduce pigmentation.00 56 .00 . I have done this peel on myself for several years and love it! Good treatment for chest.20 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $125. InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser / Brightening Scrub 20% L-Lactic Acid TCA/Salicylic Acid Vitamin A Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 15 . Minimize fine lines and pores. page 17). One of our most popular mid-depth peels. AGING SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . P rep the skin Cleanse and buff skin with a mixture of Pumpkin Cleanser and Brightening Scrub. Work into skin in circular motions for thorough cleansing. Remove with warm water. Blot skin dry. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply to skin with firm, even pressure. Work into skin with fingertips, lifting away surface build-up. Remove with warm water and gauze sponges. Do several rinses to be sure you remove ALL of the acid. Blot skin dry with a tissue. Hand client a fan, cover eyes with eye pads, and have in a semi-reclined position. Pour a small amount of TCA/Salicylic Acid into a glass beaker. Apply the first layer with a firm brush and smooth evenly onto skin. When using a brush, be sure you have control of the acid solution so that none drips. Let the first layer absorb and wait about 60 seconds. After the first application, watch for frosting - if you see any, only do that 1 application. If more layers are applied, use 2-inch gauze saturated with acid. Apply with firm pressure evenly. If another layer is appropriate (no frosting or signs of irritation) place it on skin in the opposite direction of the prior layer. Let TCA/Salicylic Acid absorb into skin and do not remove. 2 . A ppli C ation # 1 of P eel 57 AGING SKIN 3 . A ppli C ation # 2 of P eel Apply Vitamin A Peel directly to the skin. With gloved hands, smooth into skin (do not overwork). The skin will appear slightly yellow in color. This is normal. Leave on skin overnight. 4 . P ost P eel Client may cleanse skin the following morning with the appropriate cleanser. No harsh scrubs should be used. After cleansing, the client may apply Sea Gems, Regenerating Cream (EGF), and Daytime Defense SPF30. If needed, Arnica Therapy is soothing and reduces inflammation and discomfort for the first few days. Skin will begin exfoliation in 2 - 3 days. Caution: Do not use this peel on skins darker than Fitzpatrick IV. Doing so may risk hyperpigmentation. NOTE: There may be some exceptions to this, but always add Melanin Suppressant Solution to acid and place Melanin Suppressant Solution on skin prior to Vitamin A Peel. People allergic or sensitive to aspirin or vitamin A derivatives may not be able to have this peel. 58 AGING SKIN 11. THE WINE PEEL™ Intensity: Moderate Deep InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick III (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17). This peel is a revised version of The French Peel. It utilizes similar acids from wine and includes an enzyme and TCA. Goals: Rejuvenate - minimize lines and wrinkles and improve tone and texture. Regenerate. Stimulate collagen production resulting in a hydrated, healthier, more vibrant skin. InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser or Glycolic Herbal Washb Brightening Scrub Fruit Acid Botanical Liquid Enzyme Peel 10% TCA/AHA Apple Wine Peel Sea Gems ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 - 45 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $225.00 - $275.00 59 I prefer the Glycolic Herbal Wash for most all skin types. Wait 1 minute. NOTE: I work with both of these cleansers a lot – for more degreasing. Rinse skin with warm water using gauze sponges. 60 . Let this absorb into skin and wait about 60 seconds. Remove with a warm gauze sponge.AGING SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . smooth one layer of 10% TCA/AHA. Lather and work in well. Give client hand-held fan. Rinse. remove completely and dry. Buff skin with Brightening Scrub for several minutes. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and go over the entire face and neck with firm strokes. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Pumpkin Cleanser or Glycolic Herbal Wash. Rinse well and pat skin dry. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. 2 . TC A appli C ation On completely dry skin. Leave on skin for 5 minutes. Pour a small amount of Liquid Enzyme Peel into glass beaker and brush onto skin. Wear surgical gloves. E n Z y M e appli C ation 3 . ears.AGING SKIN 4 . and mouth. Arnica Therapy will reduce inflammation and pain. Day 2 to 3—Skin will be slightly red and tight. Wait 5 minutes and apply 2nd layer. Client should not apply anything to the skin for the first 24 hours. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Apple Wine Peel and begin applying with firm pressure at the forehead. Watch skin very closely. 61 5 . a 3rd layer may be applied. Day 1—Skin will feel hot and sensitive to the touch. If there is no frosting. Make sure your application is evenly distributed on the entire face and neck. Protect eyes. Rinse with cool water (club soda is great) and continue to do a few more rinses. Days 4 to 6—This is usually when skin begins to exfoliate.5 minutes). Client may lubricate skin by covering with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. Be sure to have control of solution and do not let it drip. Client may cleanse with appropriate cleanser and apply Epidermal Growth Factor twice a day. After 3rd layer – give skin 5 minutes to process. Finish skin with Sea Gems or spray down with Oxygen and Vitanomes cut in half. Client must wear sun protection daily. Sea Gems may be used to soothe and reduce heat. NOTE: If necessary. Day 7—Return for follow-up visit. P eel A ppli C ation Put on your surgical gloves Pour Apple Wine Peel into a glass beaker and brush 1 layer onto skin. Pro Salve may be applied to eye area and lips and any areas that are very tight. P ost P eel . If not too tight but uncomfortable. The skin will begin to blanch (usually 3 . Goals: Rejuvenate skin. Strengthen underlying integrity of the skin and reduce redness. Rejuvenation for sensitive skin.00 62 .SENSITIVE SKIN 12. InGreDients: Citrus Gel Cleanser Beta Green Tea Cleanser Pepsin & Papain Enzyme Microdermabrasion Machine 20% L-Lactic Acid Milk Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask Regenerating Cream / Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 . page 17). DERMAZYME PEEL™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.45 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $175. Soften fine lines and reduce enlarged pores. Appropriate for sensitive skins with broken capillaries and skin prone to redness and irritation or slightly sensitive tendency with coarse texture and impacted pores. Give skin an overall healthier and more youthful appearance. Increase moisture retention.00 .$200. 63 . 4.10 minutes with light steam or hot towel wrap. Cleanse skin with Citrus Gel and a small amount of 20% Lactic Acid mixed together for final removal of powder. wet gauze sponges. You want to remove all surface residue and makeup. Apply evenly to skin with a camel-hair brush.2 passes of microdermabrasion. MICRODERMABRASION Follow standard microdermabrasion preparation guidelines. You want to achieve a light buffing effect. 2 . Let remain on skin for 8 . Pat skin dry. Remove with warm water and sponges. Go over skin for further removal of surface residue. Do not over-peel! Remove corundum powder with cool. Rinse with warm water and gauze sponges. Blot skin dry. 3 . Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze sponges.SENSITIVE SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . Rinse well.T R E AT M E N T Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Lactic Acid. P rep the skin Cleanse skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser—create a lather by massaging in well. of Pepsin & Papain Enzyme into a glass beaker. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Do 1. P R E . Rinse with warm water. E N Z Y M E A P P L I C AT I O N Place about 1 Tbs. Blend Regenerating Cream and Daytime Defense SPF30 and apply to skin. Client should use an Epidermal Growth Factor preparation and sun protection daily! 64 .SENSITIVE SKIN 5 . apply Calming Skin Gel and go over skin with Ice Globes. If this is the case. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N NOTE: If there are any signs of irritation. Client should not use harsh scrubs or home care exfoliants for 1 week. Remove mask in 10 minutes with tepid water and gauze sponges. no scrubs or home exfoliants should be used during the entire 3 to 6 weeks. 6. Apply chilled Milk Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask to skin. Treatment may be repeated weekly or every other week for 3 to 6 weeks. Do not apply mask. Lay 2 dampened 4-inch gauze on upper and lower half of face and roll Ice Globes over skin for several minutes. Makeup may be worn following treatment (natural powdered mineral foundation is recommended). POST PEEL Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. InGreDients: Gylcolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Epidermal Leveling (Dermal Resurfacing) Derma Peel Pepsin & Papain Enzyme / H2O2 Emulsion Grape Seed Parfait Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask or Milk Mask Antioxidant Complex Serum / Growth Factor Serum / Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 . For clients with normal to dry to combination. the E P I G lo W peel ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. epidermal leveling (also referred to as dermal resurfacing).00 65 . oily skin who want a smooth polish with as minimal exfoliation.$125. page 17).00 . tired skin. This treatment uses the modality. Smooth texture and reduce enlarged pores. Improve hydration for dull. Goals: Strengthen skin. you will leave this step out.SENSITIVE SKIN 1 3 . If this is not applicable for your area.40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $80. go over skin with Beta Green Tea Lotion to eliminate bacteria. CAUTION: If any tears or cuts occur on skin do not continue with rest of treatment. Continue to massage for 5-7 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry. Light extractions may be done at this time. Dry skin with hand held fan. After extractions. make sure to remove it all. 3 . of Derma Peel and apply to dry face. Mix an even amount of Pepsin & Papain Enzyme and H2O2 Emulsion and apply to face and neck with a firm brush. Remove with warm water and soft gauze sponges. 2 . E P I D E R M A L L E V E L I N G ( D E R M A L R E S U R FA C I N G ) Begin Dermal Resurfacing (Epidermal Leveling). Feel the skin for enzyme residue. Massage into skin – gel will change to a watery consistency and then will form tiny granules. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and using firm pressure apply to skin to remove residual oils. P eel A ppli C ation . P rep the skin Cleanse the skin with Gylcolic Herbal Wash —create lather by massaging in well.SENSITIVE SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . Remove in 10 minutes with tepid water and gauze sponges. Light steam may be used. en Z y M e appli C ation Scoop 1/2 tsp. 66 4 . 67 . an Epidermal Growth Factor and Daytime Defense SPF30.SENSITIVE SKIN 5 . Rosemary Basil Mask. Remove mask in 10 minutes and finish treatment with Antioxidant Complex Serum. cover face with damp gauze and massage with Ice Globes. Have client use an Epidermal Growth Factor and Antioxidant Complex Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30 every day. post C are Makeup may be worn immediately. These are great soothing. Place cool pads on eyes. Treatment may be repeated in 1 week. hydrating and purifying masks after this type of treatment. Have client avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants. Apply mask to face and neck with a firm brush. 6 . M A S K A P P L I C ATO N Select one of the following masks: Grape Seed Parfait Mask. or Milk Mask. $150.SENSITIVE SKIN 1 4 . Minimize acne. this treatment is very effective for many skin conditions. page 17). it can be potent so monitor skin. Goals: Strengthen the integrity of the skin. Reduce fine lines and wrinkle formation. “A” YO U T H F U L S O U R C E Intensity: Aggressive/Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Good for most all skin types for a quick. But don’t let it fool you. Subdue the fragility of capillaries.00 . reactive or rosacea prone skins.00 68 . Be cautious with sensitive. easy series program. InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser Hibiscus Peel + Vitamin A Peptide Peel Omega 6 EFA ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 25 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. Let remain on skin.SENSITIVE SKIN P ro C e D ure : 1 . Remove heated wrap and cellophane. Do a second cleanse with Pumpkin Cleanser and work in for a deeper cleanse. 2 . Thoroughly remove by rinsing with tepid water and gauze. Lay cellophane over upper and lower half of face. Place several drops of Omega 6 EFA in hands and massage onto skin to work in Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze sponges. This is normal.P eel A ppli C ation Saturate 2-inch gauze with Hibiscus Peel and apply a generous amount evenly to face and neck. Steam may be used. 3 . Most of the “A” will be worked into the skin by the time you are finished. The skin will appear slightly yellow in color. P re . P rep the skin Cleanse the skin with Pumpkin Cleanser—create a lather by massaging in well. smooth into skin (do not overwork). Avoid eye area. 69 . With gloved hands. Let this remain on skin overnight. P eel A ppli C ation Apply Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel directly to the skin with a dropper (approximately 3 droppers). Wrap a heated wet compress on skin – do not press in – let this remain for 10 minutes. There will be mild to aggressive flaking in about 2-4 days – for up to 10 days. do 3 treatments 2 weeks apart. Day 2 TO 4 . treatment may be repeated once a month. After this.SENSITIVE SKIN 4 . For continued results. 70 . P ost P E E L No harsh scrubs. Avoid extreme temperature changes (this includes hot showers). Skin should be peeled and healed. Peeling may continue for up to 10 days and skin may experience more than one peeling. Recommend Arnica Therapy and Calming Skin Gel the first few days and Epidermal Growth Factor with Sea Gems through the rest of the process. This is an easy peel to do since it is applied as a mask and does not require pressure. Soften and minimize lines.00 71 .H yperpigmentation 1 5 . KO J I C C L AY L I G H T E N I N G P E E L Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. With minimal layering.$175.40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $150. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Brightening Pigment Lotion 10% TCA/AHA Melanin Suppressant Solution Kojic Clay TCA Sea Gems ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 .00 . Increase cellular production. Smooth coarse texture. this peel is great for most any skin type. page 17). Support the strengthening and integrity of the skin by increasing collagen and elastin. Goals: Brighten and lighten the skin. Let this remain on skin. Cover client’s eyes with eye pads.H yperpigmentation P ro C e D ure : 1 . Look for signs of swelling and/or raised rash-like appearance. Apply 2 layers to the skin in a crisscross application waiting 1 . Caution: Observe the skin for allergic reactions. as mixture becomes very hot on the skin. Go over the skin with Fruit Acid Botanical using 2-inch gauze and firm pressure (make sure you have your surgical gloves on). Rinse thoroughly. apply one layer of Brightening Pigment Lotion with 2-inch gauze. Use firm pressure and make sure the same amount of solution is applied all over the face to assure even penetration and distribution. 72 . If you see any. Finish with an application of Calming Skin Gel. Apply to face and neck using a firm brush. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash. Lather and work into the skin to remove surface debris. place a level teaspoon of the Kojic Clay TCA and one dropper Melanin Suppressant Solution into a glass beaker.2 minutes between layers. STOP the procedure! Wait until discomfort has ceased and then go over skin with Ice Globes for several minutes. Client may feel more comfortable with a hand-held fan at this point. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 10% TCA/AHA. Leave mask on skin for 10 minutes. Give client hand-held fan. After absorption of prior prep. 2 . P eel A ppli C ation With a tongue depressor. mild cleansing – no scrubs. this will immediately provide soothing comfort for your client and reduce heat. Lubricate with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. Rinse well with tepid water. Day 2 . skin will feel dry and tight. wipe away mixture a section at a time. NOTE: Applying wet warm compresses to skin may soften mixture and make Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. Day 3 TO 4 .A basic cleanse and Post Balm Lubrication Ointment or Pro Salve.H yperpigmentation removal easier. holding the skin taut. 3 . With firm pressure. Continue with Epidermal Growth Factor and Daytime Defense SPF30.Skin will begin to exfoliate. 4 . Mix Post Balm Lubricating Ointment and Regenerating Cream (EGF) or other Epidermal Growth Factor twice a day after cleansing. Finish treatment with Sea Gems. P ost P eel 73 . Day 1 – Skin will be slightly pink and tender. R e M o Val Use 4-inch disposable gauze sponges and tepid water. Good stimulation.00 .H yperpigmentation 1 6 . bri G hten up ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: For all skin types with hyperpigmentation that fall under the Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI classifications (see Fitzpatrick Chart. mild cell turnover. InGreDients: Skin Brightening Cleanser / Brightening Scrub Pepsin & Papain Enzyme Brightening Pigment Lotion Melanin Suppressant Solution Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 20 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. A great starter peel for new clients.$125. Goals: Lightens pigment and softens fine lines. Improves the overall tone and texture of skin. page 17).00 74 . and gives skin a brightened glow. Mild extractions may be done at this time if necessary. 2 . Lay 2 opened 4-inch gauze on upper and lower half of face and wrap face with a hot towel. of Pepsin & Papain Enzyme into a glass beaker. Remove enzyme with warm water and gauze sponge. Let this remain on the skin overnight or for less peeling. remove from skin with warm cloth in 20 minutes. 3 . Let remain on skin for 10 minutes.H yperpigmentation P ro C e D ure : 1 . Rinse well and blot skin dry. Go over skin with Brightening Pigment Lotion and let absorb and dry. Spread an even amount of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel on face and neck and blend in carefully. 75 . apply evenly to pigmented areas. and brush on face and neck. L i G htenin G an D Vita M in A A ppli C ation Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto 2-inch gauze and using firm pressure. E N Z Y M E A P P L I C AT I O N Scoop out 2 tsps. Let this prep solution remain on the skin. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Skin Brightening Cleanser and Brightening Scrub. To sustain pigmentation. Daytime Defense SPF30 may be applied over mixture. Sunscreen should be worn daily. P ost P eel Day 1—Client may cleanse with Skin Brightening Cleanser. I suggest a mixture of Brightening Cream Enhanced and Regenerating Cream (EGF). For stubborn pigmentation.H yperpigmentation 4 . When exfoliation begins. continue with Regenerating Cream twice a day. Treatment may be repeated in 2 weeks. 76 . recommend client use Naturale’ Mega Brightening Serum nightly. 00 . Goals: Gradually (in 3 -6 treatments) take the skin to a more optimal state of health and improve appearance of hyperpigmentation. Start slowly and proceed with caution. fa D e a peel ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.$95. page 17). (This treatment may be repeated every three weeks for best results.00 77 . With dark skin tones there are no absolutes. brighten skin tone and smooth and soften skin. This is a good peel to increase circulation.H yperpigmentation 1 7 .) InGreDients: Skin Brightening Cleanser Brightening Scrub H2O2 Emulsion Lotus Peel Arnica Therapy / Super C Serum / Growth Factor Serum Plus Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. Wrap face with a heated compress. If there are any signs of sensitivity or reaction. This is a good time to do a neck and shoulder massage. STOP here. H 2 o 2 A P P L I C AT I O N Cover client’s eyes with eye pads. Massage skin with a generous amount of Brightening Scrub for several minutes.H yperpigmentation P ro C e D ure : 1 . Squeeze 2 tsps. Cover face with cellophane. 78 . Remove thoroughly with warm water and brush away excess beads. If client is sensitive to this sensation. Mixture has a slight burning sensation that usually subsides quickly. Let remain on skin for 7 . Blot skin dry.10 minutes. give hand-held fan for a few minutes before applying cellophane and heat. Remove towel and cellophane and rinse away mixture with warm gauze sponges. of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a soft firm brush. 2 . (Don’t forget to leave mouth and nose uncovered for breathing!) A vapor of steam may be used in place of cellophane covering. P rep the skin Cleanse thoroughly with Skin Brightening Cleanser and rinse well. Let this remain on skin. Client may continue usual home care regimen (Brightening Cream Enhanced with Growth Factor Serum is recommended) with the exception of AHA. or retinol use. Using a firm brush. Pour a small amount of Lotus Peel into glass beaker. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N C O C K TA I L Mix Super C Serum (about 2-3 drops) and Growth Factor Serum Plus with Arnica Therapy and blend into skin for a few minutes. P ost P E E L 79 . 5 . Natural mineral pigment foundation may be worn immediately if so desired. Let this absorb and remain on skin. Skin will be glowing and moist. LOT U S P E E L L i G htenin G A ppli C ation Give client hand-held fan. these products should not be used during treatment time.H yperpigmentation 3 . salicylic. 4 . apply 1 even layer to skin. Apply a generous layer of Daytime Defense SPF30 prior to client leaving. One of our most popular and effective peels for an easy. quick approach to pigment reduction. Goals: Lighten discoloration. Improve texture and tone.$175. InGreDients: Skin Brightening Cleanser Brightening Scrub Fruit Acid Botanical 15% TCA/AHA Melanin Suppressant Solution Vitamin A Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 20 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $125.00 . making skin tone more even. the M elanin lift ™ Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: For all skin types with hyperpigmentation that fall under the Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI classifications (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Reduce wrinkle formation and impurities.00 80 .H yperpigmentation 1 8 . page 17). L i G ht E nin G an D R E T I N O L A ppli C ation 81 . apply to face and neck.P eel A ppli C ation Pour 15% TCA/AHA onto a 2-inch gauze and apply to entire face and neck. Wear surgical gloves and give client the hand-held fan. 3 . if frosting occurs. rinse skin with tepid water and blot dry then continue with step 3. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and using firm pressure. substitute 10% TCA/AHA for the 15% TCA/AHA. Let this prep solution remain on the skin. using firm pressure. apply evenly to pigmented areas. Let it remain on the skin. Observe skin. Let this remain on the skin overnight. Note: For a Progressive to Mid-Depth Peel. otherwise. Wait 5 minutes and apply another layer. 2 . let acid absorb and do step 3. P re . Rinse well. Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto a 2-inch gauze and. Remove and do a second cleanse with Brightening Scrub. Spread an even amount of Vitamin A Peel on face and neck and blend in carefully. Leave on skin. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Skin Brightening Cleanser.H yperpigmentation P ro C e D ure : 1 . Day 7—Client should return for a post follow-up visit. Daytime Defense SPF30 must be worn daily. 82 . Days 2 to 3—Exfoliation will begin and skin will be tender and sensitive during this process. Days 2 to 6—When exfoliation begins. Naturale’ Mega Brightening Serum or Brightening Pigment Lotion may be used as soon as exfoliation is complete and skin is completely healed (see Home Care section for recommended regimen). Recommend daily application of Post Balm Lubricating Ointment / Sea Gems.H yperpigmentation 4 . P ost P eel Day 1—Client may cleanse with Skin Brightening Cleanser and then apply Drop of Essence Hydration Drops. Sea Gems or Post Balm Lubrication Ointment and Daytime Defense SPF30. clients may use Regenerating Cream or Growth Factor Serum Plus twice a day. H yperpigmentation 1 9 . Good for chest and hands (omit nutrient application).00 .60 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $150. page 17). Intensity: Deep InDiCations: For all skin types with hyperpigmentation that fall under the Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI classifications (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Goals: Reduce discoloration.$200. Improve overall health and appearance of skin. InGreDients: Maui Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical Melanin Suppressant Solution H2O2 Emulsion Microdermabrasion Machine Brightening Pigment Lotion 10% TCA/AHA Oxiana Oxygen & Vitamins (OPTIONAL) Sea Gems / Omega 6 EFA Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 45 . Clear toxicity.00 83 . Smooth and soften skin texture. Crystal bri G ht pee L ™ Caution: Do not do unless you have had training and experience layering acids and working with microdermabrasion. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Maui Cleanser. avoid eye area.P E E L Cover eyes with cotton eye pads. 2 . Pour a small amount of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and spread a thin layer on skin. using firm pressure. Skin will be slick and smooth. Degrease skin by applying Fruit Acid Botanical with a 2-inch gauze using firm pressure. (This will produce a slight stinging sensation for a few minutes. 84 . Remove mixture with warm water and pat skin dry. Let this solution remain on the skin.) Allow skin to steam for 2-5 minutes. blot dry. H 2 O 2 A ppli C ation – P re . Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto 2-inch gauze and. Wear surgical gloves and give client the hand-held fan. apply evenly to pigmented areas.H yperpigmentation P ro C e D ure : 1 . Rinse 2-3 times for complete removal. Do not bring skin to pinpoint bleeding. Rinse away powder with Skin Brightening Cleanser. 5 . continue with Step 5. OPTIONAL: If you have oxygen . Mi C ro D er M abrasion Prepare skin for microdermabrasion by placing eye drops in the eyes and covering hair and ears. the nutrient application. Thoroughly remove cleanser with gauze sponges and warm water. If you do. Massage a few drops of Sea Gems and Omega 6 EFA into skin. 4 . P eel A ppli C ation Pour 10% TCA/AHA onto 2-inch gauze and apply to entire face and neck. apply an even layer of Brightening Pigment Lotion with 2-inch gauze. Do 1 pass of microdermabrasion (work pigmented spots). Blot skin dry with a tissue.H yperpigmentation 3 . On dry. Apply Daytime Defense SPF30. cleaned skin. DO NOT APPLY ACID. Let this remain on skin.spray skin with Oxiana Oxygen and Vitamins. Instead. Let it remain on the skin for 5 minutes (set timer). Rinse skin with warm water. N utrient A ppli C ation 85 . Day 7—Client must return for a post follow-up visit. Client may 86 . have client use an Epidermal Growth Factor twice a day.H yperpigmentation cleanse with Skin Brightening Cleanser and start applying Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Arnica Therapy and sun protection daily. Skin Brightening Gel or Naturalé Mega Brightening Serum may be used as soon as exfoliation is complete. Days 2 to 6—When exfoliation begins. P ost P eel Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and may experience some sensitivity. Sunscreen must be worn all day. 6 . Create mild exfoliation for smoother. Good for oily. Antioxidant support. a good peel to include Epidermal Leveling. Lift impurities. congested skin that is dehydrated and photo-damaged. but use caution.00 87 .00 . page 17).oily skin 2 0 . This peel is suitable for darker skins. Goals: Reduce sebaceous activity.$95. the A ntio X P eel ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick V (see Fitzpatrick Chart. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Epidermal Leveling (OPTIONAL) Cell Conditioner 25% AHA Gel Tomato Enzyme Peel Green Tea Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $75. acne. healthier skin. P re . Rinse well and pat skin dry. of Tomato Enzyme Peel and spread an even amount on skin. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and smooth onto face and neck evenly. Rinse from skin with warm water in 10 -15 minutes. if this happens do not continue. this is a good place to do it during this treatment. 88 . To M ato P eel A ppli C ation Remove 1 tsp. remove and wash a second time. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Glycolic Herbal Wash.3 minutes before next step.oily skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . Blot skin dry. 2 . Do not knick or scrape skin. Apply one layer of Cell Conditioner – let absorb – wait 2 .P eel A ppli C ation Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical. 3 . wet compress. and apply to skin. May remove with a cool. OPTIONAL: If you do epidermal leveling. Set timer for 5 minutes and remove with warm water and gauze sponge. and antioxidant support. Green Tea also gives skin key antioxidant support.antibacterial. 89 . NOTE: Tomato provides many benefits for the skin . substitute with Rosemary Basil Mask. exfoliating (naturally occurring acids). P ost P eel Client may experience mild exfoliation. F I N A L M A S K A P P L I C AT I O N Finish with an application of Green Tea Mask (antioxidant & antibacterial) or if skin is too stimulated. Remove from skin with warm water and gauze sponge in 10 minutes. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks.oily skin 4 . Apply eZinc Protection Cream. using the appropriate cleanser and Growth Factor Gel morning and night. Client will continue recommended skin regimen the following day. 5 . bacteria prone skin. Good for congested. and although there are several steps. “Do the magic potion again!” Goals: Soften and disperse congestion.00 .35 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $75. Balance oil. Reduce impurities.00 90 . impure. InGreDients: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Beta Refine Mask 20% Glycolic Acid Bromelain Enzyme Paste Blemish Complex / Beta Refine Mask Ice Globes Oxygen Spray (OPTIONAL) Growth Factor Gel eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 .clients have come back and said. it is worth it for the right skin . page 17). M aG i C C o M bo ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick IV (see Fitzpatrick Chart.$85.oily skin 2 1 . Steam skin with a light vapor while working enzyme into skin. 3 . Rinse well with warm water and a gauze sponge.e X tra C tion A ppli C ation Mix together 1 dropper of 20% Glycolic Acid and 1 tsp. Mix a small amount of Beta Refine Mask and 20% Glycolic Acid together.oily skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . Remove in 7 minutes with warm water and gauze sponge. Lay a heated cotton pack across compacted areas for 15-20 seconds. Massage into skin with steam for a thorough cleansing.2 minutes. Blot skin dry. Rinse skin with tepid water and gauze sponges. Wear gloves and begin to work mixture into skin similar to a gommage. P re . Swab only lesions and compacted pores with 20% Glycolic Acid and remove in 1 . e X tra C tion 91 . Rinse well. P rep the skin Cleanse skin with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. of Bromelain Enzyme Paste. Apply to face and neck with a soft brush. 2 . Do extractions. Avoid eye area. P ost P eel Day 1—The skin will be slightly pink and sensitive for the first 24 hours. of Beta Refine Mask. and is a good monthly maintenance treatment. although Blemish Serum may be applied to any lesions that surface. Apply a thin paste to congested. oily.oily skin 4 . Day 2—The skin will be somewhat dry and tight. This treatment may be repeated in 1 week. Optional: You may go over face with sterile Ice Globes at this time. OPTIONAL: Spray with Oxygen and Vitamins. Finish with Growth Factor Gel. Client will follow appropriate cleansing instructions. Have client use an Epidermal Growth Factor and eZinc Protection Cream. acne areas only. 5 . H e A L I N G A ppli C ation Mix a small amount of Blemish Complex with 1 tsp. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. and eZinc Protection Cream. Remove in 5 minutes. 92 . Skin will be red. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation on areas treated with mask mixture. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Pumice Wash or Brightening Scrub 20% Glycolic or 20% L-Lactic Acid H2O2 Emulsion Vitamin A Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 25 . This peel is suitable for darker skins.oily skin 2 2 .$125. Stimulate tired.00 . dull sluggish skin. Goals: Reduce sebaceous activity and lift impurities. “a” pero X i D e peel ™ Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick IV (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Good for chest and hands.30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $95. Minimize fine lines and soften texture. healthier skin. Cause a mild exfoliation for a smoother. but always use with caution. page 17).00 93 . Rinse away with warm water in 1-2 minutes.oily skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . 94 . P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Glycolic Herbal Wash. Rinse off completely and pat dry. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid or 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply to skin with firm. Pour a small amount of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a stiff brush. “A” A P P L I C AT I O n 4 . Let it remain on the skin overnight. Client may experience some mild flaking and skin will be slightly sensitive. Have client use Growth Factor Gel and sun protection daily. Drop Vitamin A Peel onto the skin and smooth in evenly. Remove mixture with gauze pads and warm water. P ost P eel Client may continue with mild cleansing the next day. 3 . P E E L A N D S T E A M A P P L I C AT I O N Cover eyes with cotton eye pads. even pressure. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks. Steam skin for 10 minutes or cover with cellophane and wrap in hot compresses. Rinse. Blot skin dry. Do a second wash with Pumice Wash or Brightening Scrub. 2 . $200. Reduce pigmentation. Detoxify impure skin. thick. Good for chest.00 95 . MICRO BLAST Intensity: Deep InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick IV (see Fitzpatrick Chart. oily and acne-prone as well as photo-damaged.45 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $150. InGreDients: Skin Brightening Cleanser Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical 20% Glycolic Acidn TCA/Salicylic Acid Microdermabrasion System Vitamin A Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 . page 17). This peel is suitable for darker skins. but always use with caution. Minimize wrinkles / fine lines. Good for skins that are coarse.00 . Goals: Soften and smooth texture. aged skin. It uses an aggressive 3-step prep and TCA.oily skin 23. Saturate 2-inch gauze with solution and apply evenly to face and neck. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin with firm pressure. NOTE: Be sure to assess skin before proceeding with microdermabrasion step. 2. Blot skin dry. even pressure. Repeat cleansing step with Glycolic Herbal Wash. 3 . P re . Rinse skin well. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Skin Brightening Cleanser. Give client hand-held fan and set timer for 2 minutes. ACID PREP Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid. Work in well and remove with soft gauze sponges and warm water.Mi C ro D er M abrasion TC A Pour a small amount of TCA/Salicylic Acid into a glass beaker. This will remain on skin.oily skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . Apply to face and neck with firm. Cover eyes with cotton pads for the duration of the remaining treatment steps. Rinse skin completely and pat dry. Avoid the eye area. Let absorb and process for 5 minutes. 96 . Treatment may be repeated in 1 month. 6 . V I TA M I N A A ppli C ation Apply Vitamin A Peel to skin and evenly blend in.oily skin 4 . DO NOT bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding. Recommend Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment the first day if skin is tight or uncomfortable. P ost P eel 97 . 5 . Place cool gauze on eyes. have setting at maximum capacity. Do not overwork the skin. cover hair and ears. Do one to two passes. rinse several times. This remains on skin. Remove corundum crystal if applicable with warm water and gauze. Blot skin dry and make sure that ALL crystal is removed. Client may experience some mild flaking and skin will be slightly sensitive. Depending on machine used. Have client use Growth Factor Gel and Daytime Defense SPF30.put drops in eyes. just smooth the mixture in lightly. Mi C ro D er M abrasion T reat M ent Prepare the client for microdermabrasion . gently pat around the eye area to wipe away excess crystal. for grade 1-3 oily acne skins. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Microdermabrasion Machine Citrus Gel Cleanser Cell Conditioner / Beta Refine Mask or Cacti Mud Mask Blemish Complex Growth Factor Serum / eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $150. Reduce amount of flare-ups and speed recovery of flare-ups that do occur. Encourage healing of lesions and loosen skin debris and impactions.00 98 . Treats unhealthy skin tones for a crystal clear complexion. the C rystal C lear peel ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Goals: Control sebaceous activity.A C N E skin 2 4 . Remove buildup of dead skin cells. page 17). Depending on the degree of impurity. cover hair and ears. massaging the corundum powder and focusing on lesions for germicidal effect. 99 . Gently pat around the eye area to wipe away excess powder. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse well. Apply Citrus Gel Cleanser to hands and work into surface of the skin. Mi C ro D er M abrasion T reat M ent Prepare client for microdermabrasion: put eye drops in eyes. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and using firm pressure. Do not bring skin to pinpoint bleeding. an additional wash may be required. Place cool gauze on eyes. Rinse several times and pat skin dry. apply to skin. have setting at maximum capacity and do two passes of microdermabrasion. Do not remove. Steam skin. 2 . Depending on machine used. Turn off steamer.A C N E skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . A C ne T reat M ent Dot lesions and congested areas with a small amount of Blemish Complex. Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Note: This may cause a burning sensation. Client should cleanse with appropriate cleanser (Beta Green Tea) and use Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel daily. P ost P eel 100 . it is very beneficial to spray skin for 10 minutes. Finish with Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream. 4 . Mix Cell Conditioner into Beta Refine Mask or Cacti Mud Mask to form a thin liquid mixture and brush on skin. Remove mask in 7-10 minutes. Day 2 to 3—Skin may experience some dryness. Day 4—Client can generally resume acne home care program. If you are using the Oxiana System. so client will require fan. areas where Blemish Complex was applied will exfoliate. Rinse face with tepid water and gauze to remove mask mixture and acne treatment.A C N E skin 3 . This treatment may be repeated in 1 week. great for oily acne skins that have acne grade 1-3. Loosen skin impurities for easier extraction and to heal lesions. page 17). Detoxes skin and aids with unhealthy skin tones.00 101 . InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical H2O2 Emulsion Steamer or Hot Compresses 20% Glycolic Acid Blemish Complex / Cacti Mud Mask Growth Factor Gel / eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 . Goals: Control acne. Balance sebaceous activity.A C N E skin 2 5 .40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. the D eto X peel ™ Intensity: Progressive to Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid and apply to face and neck. (If you do not have a steamer.) Remove mixture with warm water and gauze sponges. (If you are using a compress. Wear surgical gloves. Pour a small amount of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a firm brush. Set timer for 90 seconds. cover the face with cellophane and a damp hot towel. Remove with water and sponges. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponges. 2 . Steam skin for 10 minutes. 3 . Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to remove oils and lipids.A C N E skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . use damp. Neutralize with club soda or baking soda solution. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. hot compresses. P eel A ppli C ation 102 . Do not go directly under eyes or eyelids. S tea M A ppli C ation Prepare steamer.) Give client hand-held fan. Finish with Growth Factor Gel and eZinc Protection Cream.A C N E skin 4 . e X tra C tion Manual extractions to remove comedones and whiteheads. 5 . Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. 6 . Day 4—Client may resume recommended acne home care regimen. OPTIONAL: For continued healing of acne skin . P ost P eel 103 . This treatment may be repeated in 2 weeks. There will be mild exfoliation where the mask mixture was applied. Day 2 to 3—The skin will be somewhat dry and tight.apply a thin layer of Mandelic Arginine Peel. Client may cleanse with a mild cleanser and apply Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel daily. Remove in 7-10 minutes with cool water and gauze sponges. lance with needle for removal of milia and to reduce pressure of papules. Mask A ppli C ation Mix 1 part Blemish Complex to 3 parts Cacti Mud Mask together and spread on congested areas and lesions. $175. For oily acne skins with acne from grade1 to grade 3.00 104 . Goals: Control sebaceous activity. This is a consistently effective healing treatment for many acne conditions and is valuable to include as part of a treatment regimen in conjunction with other peels.45 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $150.A C N E skin 2 6 . page 17).00 . Encourage healing of lesions. InGreDients: All-Purpose Cleansing Pads / Beta Action Scrub Fruit Acid Botanical Salicylic Solution Blemish Serum Kojic Clay TCA Rosemary Basil Mask (Optional) ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 . Remove blockages with a brisk exfoliation. KO J I C C L AY TC A AC N E Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. 2 . Place 1 tsp. Blot skin dry. smooth it into the skin. Make sure to avoid eye area.A C N E skin P ro C e D ure : 1 . Rinse skin several times. Remove with cool water and gauze sponges. Let mask remain on skin until dry (about 10 minutes). Mixture will have a warm. Give client hand-held fan. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to remove oils and lipids. Note: Skin may blanch. tingling sensation. thin with a few drops of Fruit Acid Botanical.) NOTE: This acid mask will be very hot. P eel A ppli C ation 105 . Do a granular scrub with Beta Action Scrub. Remove with warm water and gauze sponge. (If mixture is thick. P re . P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with All Purpose Cleansing Pads and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. 3 . Let this prep solution remain on the skin.T reat M ent Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Salicylic Solution and with very firm pressure. of Kojic Clay TCA in a glass beaker and apply to skin with a camel- hair brush. Do not be alarmed—this is perfectly normal. of Rosemary Basil Mask into a glass beaker and spread a thin. R e M o Val Once the mask is removed. 4 . For best results leave on skin for 20 minutes. nothing is put on the skin. pain.A C N E skin amount on entire face and neck with a soft firm brush.optional Place 1 tsp. P ost P eel Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. inflammation. If skin is uncomfortable or tight. 6 . client may use Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment as a lubricant. recommend Arnica Therapy. If there is itching.this will minimize vulnerability until client is home. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. Remove with gauze sponges and warm water. Cleansing and use of sun protection may commence. and provides additional antibacterial benefits. 106 . recommend Calming Skin Gel and for discomfort. Client is instructed to do nothing to skin for the first 24 hours. The mask soothes and calms skin. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. Mask A ppli C ation . even 5 . Client should begin using Growth Factor Gel daily. If sun exposure is a concern. supports and enhances healing. have client return in 1 week for extractions. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Treatment may be repeated in 3 weeks. apply eZinc Protection Cream . the H OT to M ato peel ™ Intensity: Mid-Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. thick congested skin and photo-damaged pigmented skin. For combination.00 107 . Eliminate and control acne lesions.prone skin. acne.$95. page 17). Improve skin texture. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Beta Green Tea Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical Melanin Suppressant Solution Salicylic Solution / Tomato Enzyme Peel Ice Globes Growth Factor Serum / Arnica Therapy Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85.00 .A C N E skin 2 7 . Lighten pigmented skin. Goals: Balance oil production. Be sure to avoid eye area. Massage into skin for 60 seconds and remove with tepid water. Apply to skin with firm brush. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin in the same way you would apply a toner. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. with very firm pressure. Let this prep solution remain on the skin. Blot skin dry. of Tomato Enzyme Peel in a glass beaker and add 1 dropper of Salicylic Solution. 3 . as mixture can have a warm. Let remain on skin for 10 minutes. 2 .A C N E skin P ro C e D ure : 1 .T reat M ent Saturate 2-inch gauze with the Melanin Suppressant Solution. tingling sensation. The goal is to remove all lipidsfrom the skin. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. P re . P eel A ppli C ation 108 . Place 1 tsp. Give client hand-held fan. smooth it into the skin. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. R e M o Val Remove with cool water and gauze sponges.A C N E skin 4 . 5 . Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. In the morning apply Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Note: Skin may blanch. Do not be alarmed—this is perfectly normal. Finish with Daytime Defense SPF30. Place damp gauze on face and go over skin with chilled Ice Globes. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. client may continue with home care corrective topicals. Client can proceed with normal cleansing and application of Growth Factor Serum at night. 109 . Apply a liberal amount of Growth Factor Serum mixed with a small amount of Arnica Therapy to skin and allow it to dry. it is recommended that client return for extractions. Once skin is healed (to be assessed at week’s end visit). Rinse skin several times. P ost P eel Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client should continue with Growth Factor Serum and sun protection. Makeup may be worn at this time. This treatment may be repeated in 1 week. . InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser Brightening Scrub 25% AHA Gel Apple Wine Peel Melanin Suppressant Solution Vitamin A Peel Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 25 . fir M in G & tonin G peel ™ Intensity: Mid Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. This has become one of my favorite peels..easy.00 .00 110 .$150. but especially good for photo-aged. and what a difference! Goals: Minimize Fine Lines.MORE PEELS 2 8 . page 17). fast. normal to dry skin and uneven skin tones. Refine Skin Tone. For many skin types.30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $95. Stimulate Cellular Rejuvenation. Let remain on skin. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Pumpkin Cleanser and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge.1 Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Apple Wine Peel and. A C i D A P P L I C AT I O N . 2 . Do a granular scrub with Brightening Scrub. Remove acid in 5 minutes with warm water and gauze sponge. A C i D A ppli C ation . Smooth in a few drops of Omega 6 EFA. Do several rinses.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and apply to the skin with firm pressure for additional cell removal. 111 . Client will go home with the Vitamin A Peel on and do nothing to skin until the next morning. Be sure skin is dry before applying acid. with very firm pressure. Wait 5 minutes and apply a 2nd layer of Apple Wine Peel. Give client hand-held fan. Remove with warm water and gauze sponge. Mixture may have a warm. Rinse with water and gauze. smooth it into the skin. 3 . Blot skin dry.2 Saturate 2-inch gauze with Melanin Suppressant Solution and apply evenly to face and neck. tingling sensation. Place 3-4 droppers of Vitamin A Peel on face and neck and blend in evenly. Client should continue using Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Serum Plus daily. Satin Peptide or Peptide 38. Skin Smoothing Gel. Cleansing. Super C Serum. Day 2—Same as day one. Day 3—There will be mild to aggressive exfoliation over the next several days. Client should return in 1 week for post evaluation.MORE PEELS 4 . and Skin Brightening Gel may begin. home care topicals such as Organic A Complex. Treatment may be repeated in one 1 month. Avoid cellular repair home care for 1 week. Growth Factor Serum and use of Daytime Defense SPF30 may commence. 112 . After 1 week. P ost peel Day 1—The skin will be somewhat dry and tight. Goals: Dissolve. Effectively grabs and disperses melanin.30 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $75.00 113 . InGreDients: Pumpkin Cleanser 25% AHA Gel Melanin Suppressant Solution Pro Pumpkin Peel Pumpkin E Serum Oxygen (OPTIONAL) Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 25 .00 . soften and exfoliate keratin cells. Improve texture.$95.MORE PEELS 2 9 . photo-aging and uneven skin tone. A great chest peel. dry and oily skins that have a thicker texture. For normal. Infuse antioxidants into skin. Brighten pigmented skin. page 17). pu M pkin D eli G ht ™ Intensity: Intense Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. 114 . Blot skin dry with gauze or tissue. With very firm pressure. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and apply to skin evenly with firm pressure. P re . Blot skin dry with gauze or tissue. The goal is to remove all surface residue from the skin. tingling sensation. 3 . Give client hand-held fan. of Pro Pumpkin Peel in a glass beaker and apply to skin with a firm brush. This enzyme is equivalent to a 30% Glycolic Acid . NOTE: To minimize intensity of Pro Pumpkin Peel .the skin must be timed and observed as you would with any acid. Be sure to avoid eye area.Pumpkin E Serum may be applied first . Wait 3-5 minutes and remove AHA with warm water and gauze sponge.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Rinse skin twice for thorough removal. 2 . Let this prep solution remain on the skin. Let remain on skin for 2-3 minutes. P eel A ppli C ation Place 1 tsp.T reat M ent Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Melanin Suppressant Solution. smooth it into the skin. Rinse skin twice with cool water and gauze sponges for thorough removal. as enzyme peel can have a warm.this buffers the enzyme. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Pumpkin Cleanser and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Client should continue with Growth Factor Serum and sun protection. Place warmed gauze pads on skin to remove excess Pumpkin E Serum (the resin leaves a green tinge on skin). In the morning apply Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30. Finish the treatment with Daytime Defense SPF30. N ourish M ent appli C ation Using about 1 dropper of Pumpkin E Serum. Client may proceed with normal cleansing and application of Growth Factor Serum at night. This also aids in penetrating the skin better. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. NOTE: Do not do extractions prior to the application of Pro Pumpkin Peel. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. 115 . OPTIONAL: Spray skin with Oxygen for about 5-7 minutes. 5 . Let nutrients absorb into skin for a few minutes. P ost P eel Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. apply to face and neck and begin mild facial manipulations. Continue with massage for about 10 minutes for increased tissue respiration and antioxidant support.MORE PEELS 4 . Improve texture & skin tone.60 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $175.00 .MORE PEELS 3 0 .$250. page 17). Reduce sebum production. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Cell Conditioner Microdermabrasion Machine Melanin Suppressant Solution 15% TCA/AHA Vitamin A Peel ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 45 .avoid sensitive.00 116 . Goals: Minimize fine lines. Stimulate cellular rejuvenation. Intensity: Deep InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. however it is intense so be sure client is ready for this. For many skin types and conditions . I have done this peel many times – always with a very nice outcome. Brighten & lighten discoloration. rosacea skin. youn G a G ain pee L ™ Classroom education & peel experience required before doing this peel. Give client hand-held fan. Brush away crystal with dry gauze. Do one thorough pass. apply a second layer. 3 . The skin will show signs of erythema.Mi C ro D er M abrasion Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner and with very firm pressure. For thicker skin. 117 .gently pat around the eye area to wipe away excess crystal. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. P re . Blot skin dry. Place cool gauze on eyes . Mixture can have a warm tingling sensation. Wait a few minutes before next step. Mi C ro D er M abrasion Prepare the client for microdermabrasion. DO NOT bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding. put drops in eyes. 2 . cover hair and ears. This remains on the skin. have setting at maximum capacity.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Depending on machine used. rinse several times. smooth it into the skin. Remove remainder with dampened gauze that has a small amount of Glycolic Herbal Wash on them. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to decrease skin of lipids. but leave on skin. MORE PEELS 4 . A C i D P eel A ppli C ation - 1 Mix 1 dropper of Melanin Suppressant Solution with 3-4 droppers of 15% TCA/ AHA in a glass beaker. Place eye pads on client. Pour 15% TCA/AHA into a beaker and using a firm brush, apply one even layer. Be careful of dripping solution; protect ears, eyes, and mouth. Let absorb and wait 60 seconds. Wearing protective gloves, saturate 2-inch gauze with mixture. Using very firm pressure, go over face and neck with gauze. Wait 5 minutes and apply a third layer in the opposite direction. (Generally 2-3 layers is all that is needed to achieve a light frost) Allow solution to absorb into skin (about 5 minutes) and watch closely for separation. This appears like a foggy, white frost. When this happens, rinse skin with cool water and blot dry. Assess skin to determine if final acid peel is appropriate. This is where your experience and ability to read the skin is very important. If you have any doubts do not continue. 5 . A C i D P eel A ppli C ation - 2 Apply droppers of Vitamin A Peel on face and neck. Blend in lightly and let this remain on skin. Client will leave with the Vitamin A mixture left on the skin, so it is important this is done at the end of the day and in the cooler winter months. 118 MORE PEELS 6 . P ost P eel Day 1—Skin will be very dry and tight. Client will only apply Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment. This may be done as often as needed to reduce tightness. NOTE: Arnica Therapy may be used to soothe skin and reduce inflammation. Day 2—Same as day one. Day 3—Skin will begin to exfoliate and client will begin mixing Growth Factor Serum with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment (equal amounts - applied twice a day). Day 4—Skin will begin to shed more aggressively - keep applying post care topicals. Day 5 TO 7—Light cleansing may be done with Citrus Gel Cleanser and/or Gentle Milk Cleanser followed by a.m. and p.m. applications of Growth Factor Serum. Daytime Defense SPF30 and natural mineral foundation may be applied at this time. Be sure to send client home with appropriate home care instructions and call within the first 24 hours. Avoid cellular repair home care topicals until skin is completely peeled and healed. Treatment may be repeated in 6 weeks. Client should return in 1 week for post evaluation. 119 MORE PEELS 3 1 . PA R A M E D I C A L 4 - L AY E R P E E L Intensity: Mid Depth InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17). Most skin types will see a rejuvenating change with this technology treatment! Goals: Reduce scar formation. Improve hyperpigmentation and hydration. Stimulate and increase collagen production. Soften fine lines and improve skin texture. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Epidermal Leveling Microdermabrasion 10% TCA/AHA LED – Blue and Red Light Sea Gems / Omega 6 EFA Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 45 - 55 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $150.00 - $200.00 120 2 . Protect hair. If necessary do a second cleanse.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin. 121 . 3 . Do two passes of micro in a crisscross pattern. following the appropriate guidelines and technique. Mi C ro D er M abrasion Prepare client for micro. M e C hani C al e X foliation Begin cellular abrasion (epidermal leveling). DO NOT BRING SKIN TO PIN POINT BLEEDING. Blot skin dry. Let absorb and remain on skin. P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Dry with fan. place drops in eyes or cover eyes. Finish with a layer of Daytime Defense SPF30. LED How this step is done depends on the equipment you have delivering LED. Blend Sea Gems and Omega 6 EFA together and pat gently onto skin. 6 . Let absorb and remain on skin. continue with next layer. Let 5. Let client continue to hold fan until burning subsides. Pour a small amount of 10% TCA/AHA into a glass beaker. PHASE 2 – Do one pass with BLUE LED for anti-bacterial support and oxygenation. If no frosting. LAYER 1 . Protect eyes.MORE PEELS this absorb and process (about 5 minutes). aC i D appli C ation Give client hand-held fan. LAYER 2 – Wet gauze again with solution and apply to skin in opposite direction. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N 122 .Saturate 2” gauze with solution and apply to skin with firm pressure. PHASE 1 – Do one pass with RED LED to stimulate collagen. 4 . MORE PEELS cleansing and application of Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel at night. Client may proceed with normal 123 . P ost P eel Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. In the morning apply Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30. Client will return in 1 week for follow-up. 7 . Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. Client continues with Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. This treatment may be repeated in one month. InGreDients: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical 20% Glycolic Acid or 20% L-Lactic Acid Cell Conditioner Italian Herbal Peel / H2O2 Emulsion Green Tea Mask Oxygen / Vitamins (OPTIONAL) Growth Factor Serum / eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 .00 124 . italian herbal peel ™ Intensity: Aggressive Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.00 .$105. Minimize oil production.50 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85.MORE PEELS 3 2 . blemished and oily skin types. Goals: Reduce bacteria – normalize skin. this is a good treatment to do dermal resurfacing (epidermal leveling) for combination to normal skin types. Soften and dissolve cellular build-up. page 17). Impure. Smooth rough texture. This solution may have a stinging sensation so provide client with hand held fan. smooth it into the skin evenly. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner and apply evenly to face and neck. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to reduce lipids. Remove with warm water and gauze sponges in 2-3 minutes. Blot skin dry. D E R M A L R E S U R FAC I N G ( E P I D E R M A L L E V E L I N G ) . 3 . 2 . If this occurs do not apply any acids to that area. and with firm pressure. Do not knick or scrape skin.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . aC i D prep Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid (20% L-Lactic Acid may be used for dry acne and thinner skin). P rep the skin Cleanse face and neck with Beta Green Tea Cleanser and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge.optional On very dry skin. This remains on the skin. Be sure skin is completely dry before going to next step. Give client hand-held fan. begin cellular abrasion with proper technique. 4 . P re . Let this remain on skin.peel step 125 . Suggest Blemish Serum swabbed only on lesions. Place cellophane over upper and lower portion of face. Light cleansing may be done with Citrus Gel Cleanser or All Purpose Cleansing Pads followed by a. and p. Remove in 7-10 minutes with tepid water and soft gauze sponges. smooth herbs onto skin. Mix equal parts of H2O2 Emulsion with Italian Herbal Peel to create a soft paste (a few drops of Fruit Acid Botanical may be added to make paste spreadable). H erbal P eel appli C ation Remove about 1 tsp.m. of powdered herbal mixture into a glass beaker. Wrap face in a heated compress for 10 minutes then remove peel mixture.MORE PEELS 5 . 7 . This may vary depending on skin condition. Wearing protective gloves. P ost P eel 126 . Client will only apply Growth Factor Gel. be sure eye pads are in place. OPTIONAL: Spray skin with Oxygen & Vitamins. applications of Growth Factor Gel or Serum.m. so be sure the skin is not too overworked or sensitive. NOTE: This is an active mask. Day 3 to 7—The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. Finish skin with Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream. F inal Mask appli C ation Remove about 1 tsp. of Green Tea Mask and using a firm brush. apply to skin. Sun protection and natural mineral foundation may be used as needed. 6 . Day 1 TO 2 —The skin will be somewhat tender. Goals: Create a superficial exfoliation that renews and freshens the skin. The Flower Acid Peel is a complex of Azelaic and Mandelic. InGreDients: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Microdermabrasion (OPTIONAL) Hibiscus Peel Flower Acid Peel Arnica Therapy or Sea Gems ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 30 . The two work in tandem to create a lovely peel. page 17).40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $225. The Hibiscus Peel adds extra DNA and lightening support in a liquid solution. H ibis C us flo W er AC i D P eel Intensity: Moderate Deep InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. a healing paste that induces cell turnover. Help smooth and even skin tone and balance oil production.00 127 .MORE PEELS 3 3 . and rinse well with warm water and gauze sponges. Wait 1-2 minutes before the peel application. Apply solution evenly to face and neck and let fully absorb. 128 .MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . oilier skin. and apply to face and neck with very firm pressure to degrease the skin. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. DO ONE THOROUGH PASS . 3 . Let this remain on the skin. P re . 2 . Apply a second layer. P rep the skin Cleanse skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash.optional This optional step will further enhance the treatment for thicker. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Hibiscus Peel. If this happens do not continue with acid application.peel A ppli C ation Give client hand-held fan. You may need to re-saturate your gauze in order to distribute the solution equally. Wear surgical gloves.Do not bring skin to pin point bleeding or break the skin. Saturate 2-inch gauze with the Fruit Acid Botanical. coarser. Let this remain on the skin and completely absorb and dry. M I C R O D E R M A B R A S I O N . Sea Gems is also a very soothing topical that will reduce erythema and heat. This remains on skin for 10 to 20 minutes (depending on thickness of skin and level of desired peeling) – light. May apply Arnica Therapy or Sea Gems. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Begin use of Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel.6 weeks. Keep the skin nourished and supported during the building phase. clean fingers. P ost P eel Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. tepid gauze. Client will follow appropriate instructions doing very little to skin the first three days (Deep Post Peel Kit is recommended). Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and sensitive for the first 24 hours. Call client within 24 hours and do a post peel follow-up in one week. Remove completely with wet. wet. client may apply Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment. it mixes well with other post care. This treatment may be repeated in 4 . Skin will be tender and red. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1-2 weeks. heat application may be used last few minutes on thicker skin. P E E L A P P L I C AT I O N Place Flower Acid Peel into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a brush or protected. Smooth in evenly and work into skin gently.MORE PEELS 4 . 129 . Arnica Therapy will reduce discomfort/pain and inflammation. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. it may need to be mixed with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Arnica Therapy for the first few applications. 5 . page 17).$125. InGreDients: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Cell Conditioner Salicylic Peeling Cream Hibiscus Peel Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel (OPTIONAL) ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 45 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $95.00 130 . Is antibacterial and creates a mild exfoliation.MORE PEELS 3 4 . Goals: Reduce inflammation and sensitivities – smooth texture and give a healthier appearance to skin. reduces inflammation and adds supportive and soothing properties to rosacea prone skin. R O S AC E A P E E L ™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.00 . Rejuvenation for sensitive skin. massage in well. P rep the skin Cleanse the skin with Beta Green Tea Cleanser . Remove all surface residue and makeup. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze. Let absorb into skin and remain on. aC i D appli C aton Remove 1 tsp. Rinse the skin with tepid water and gauze. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Do a couple or rinses and examine skin for any irritations or unusual frosting. Apply to face and neck with a brush. Let remain on skin 10 . As the acid seeps into the skin. wear protective gloves and begin smoothing cream into the skin. Rinse with warm water.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . This will also help with the burn sensation that develops. 3 . Blot dry.P eel A ppli C ation Saturate 2” gauze with Cell Conditioner and apply evenly to face and neck. A fan will dry the mixture but if necessary give to client. P re .15 minutes. Salicylic Peeling Cream. 2 . 131 . the mixture becomes hotter. 6 . a layer of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel may be applied and left on skin. Have client use Rosacea Serum and Growth Factor Gel and Daytime Defense SPF30. Watch solution closely as to not drip on client’s face. Let this absorb into skin and look closely at skin. 4 . P ost P E E L Makeup may be worn the next day (natural mineral foundation recommended). F I N I S H I N G S eru M Gently pat several drops of Sea Gems onto skin to reduce heat and inflammation. F I N A L AC I D Pour a small amount of Hibiscus Peel into a glass beaker and apply 1 layer 5 . Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks. NOTE: If more peeling is desired and skin can handle. 132 . Let this layer process fully before going to the next step. Avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants.MORE PEELS evenly to skin using a firm brush. page 17).$110. skin prone to redness and irritation and slightly sensitive tendency with coarse texture and impacted pores. Rejuvenation for sensitive skin. RADIANCE PEEL™ Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Goals: Stimulate skin at a cellular level.00 133 . sensitive skins with broken capillaries. InGreDients: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Bromelain Enzyme Paste Cell Conditioner Hibiscus Peel Rosacea Serum / Arnica Therapy / eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 40 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85.MORE PEELS 35.00 . Improve integrity of skin and induce healing and renewal. massage in well. Rinse with warm water and blot skin dry. Let remain on skin for 8 to10 minutes – may gently work into skin with gloved fingers. Remove with warm water thoroughly and blot skin dry.MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser.watch skin closely for irritation but redness is normal. 3 . Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze. Apply evenly to skin with a firm brush. 2 . E n Z y M e A ppli C ation Place about 1 Tbs. Go over skin for further removal of surface residue and to lift any loosened cells from enzyme. P rep the skin Cleanse the skin with Beta Green Tea Cleanser . Blot dry. of Bromelain Enzyme Paste into a glass beaker. rosacea skins will do well with this enzyme due to the salicylic acid in it. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner. There are no absolutes . P re . Remove all surface residue and makeup.T reat M ent 134 . Rinse with warm water. NOTE: Most sensitive. 135 . Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks. Blend mixture together and apply evenly to skin with gentle patting motion. Arnica Therapy – 1-2 pumps. Pour a small amount of Hibiscus Peel into a glass beaker and apply 1 layer evenly to skin using a firm brush. Let the layer process fully before going to the next step. Avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants. eZinc Protection Cream – 1 pump. 6 . 5 . Have client use Rosacea Serum and Growth Factor Gel and appropriate sun protection. Watch solution closely as to not drip on client’s face.MORE PEELS 4 . Let this absorb into skin and look closely at skin. P ost P E E L Makeup may be worn the next day (natural mineral foundation recommended). A C i D A ppli C ations Protect client’s eyes and offer hand held fan. F I N I S H I N G C O C K TA I L Mix together the following topicals: Rosacea Serum – 2-3 drops. 60 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $110.MORE PEELS 36. InGreDients: Gentle Milk Cleanser Citrus Gel Cleanser 20% L-Lactic Acid Microdermabrasion Maui Peel Oxygen / Vitamins or MVC Serum Drop of Essence Hydration Drops or Grape Seed Hydrating Serum and/or Blushed Wine Gel Daytime Defense SPF30 or eZinc Protection Cream ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 50 .brighten skin tone. Smooth rough texture. smooth. Soften and dissolve cellular build-up. Goals: Peel away stratum corneum. It is a beautiful series peel that combines acid. soft and buttery.00 136 . MICRO MAUI PEEL Intensity: Aggressive Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart.$150. Reduce fine lines . and enzyme – leaving the skin. This is a great treatment for aging to normal skin types. page 17).00 . micro. P rep the skin Remove eye make-up with Gentle Milk Cleanser.remove with warm water and gauze. Blot skin dry. massaging and working into skin. Do a second cleanse with Citrus Gel Cleanser. 2 .MORE PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 .optional On very dry skin. Blot skin dry. Do not knick or scrape skin. If this occurs do not apply any acids to that area. begin cellular abrasion with proper technique. do several rinses to remove all cleanser. 137 . Turn on steamer and cleanse skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser – remove all surface make-up and residue. rinse gently with warm cotton pads. Let remain on skin 5 minutes . D E R M A L R E S U R FAC I N G ( E P I D E R M A L L E V E L I N G ) . Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply to the skin evenly. Rinse skin with warm water and gauze. Rinse skin with warm gauze. MICRODERMABRASION Protect eyes. lay slightly damp 4" x 4" gauze on upper and lower half of face. MAUI PEEL 138 . Wrap face and neck with a steamed.MORE PEELS 3. Be sure skin is completely dry before beginning. Do not bring the skin to pin-point bleeding or break the skin. 4. Remove 1 tsp. Remove hot wrap and gauze and rinse skin well with tepid water. At the end of the application. and cover hair as you prepare client for microdermabrasion. ears. of Maui Peel and place in a glass beaker. Be sure skin is completely dry before going to next step. lifting away dead skin cells. Client will feel a mild tingling sensation – begin massaging enzyme into skin with gloved hands. Do 1-2 passes of micro depending on pressure and type of machine being used. Continue to massage Maui Peel (it will become less creamy). rinse skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser. As this is worked into the skin. the tingling will lessen. Pat skin dry. hot towel for 1-2 minutes to complete the enzyme infusion. Begin applying enzyme to face and neck. If this happens do not continue. mixture becomes buttery on skin as it is worked in for about 10 minutes. The goal is to slightly pinken and stimulate skin. Brush away corundum powder when finished with micro. If you do not have this – apply MVC Serum to skin and massage in well for 5 minutes. Normal cleansing. sun protection and natural mineral foundation may be used as needed. Photo-Aged – Drop of Essence Hydration Drops and Daytime Defense SPF30. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks. Client will an Epidermal Growth Factor. P ost P eel Day 1 to 2—The skin may be somewhat tender and a little pink. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N Spray skin with Oxygen and Vitamins. growth factor. Moisturizer. Finish treatment with appropriate topicals depending on skin type: Dry. 6 . Combination Skin – Blushed Wine Gel and eZinc Protection Cream. Day 3 to 7—Client may experience mild exfoliation. Avoid cellular repair home care topicals until skin is completely peeled and healed. and Daytime Defense SPF30. Oily.MORE PEELS 5 . Normal – Grape Seed Hydrating Serum and/or Blushed Wine Gel and Daytime Defense SPF30. 139 . dry skin. Lightens skin. Hands. W I N E LU S T E R B O DY P E E L (For Arms.BODY PEELS 3 7 . InGreDients: Maui Cleanser Brightening Pigment Lotion Brightening Scrub / Melanin Suppressant Solution 25% AHA Gel Apple Wine Peel Energizing Peptide Spritz Bio Reform 28 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 35 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. page 17). Smoothes and softens skin tissue. this light peel treatment leaves the skin soft and glowing. this protocol may also be done on the chest.$125. Sun-damaged. Giving skin a boost.00 .00 140 . And Décolleté) Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Goals: Exfoliates dead skin cells. massaging in well for 5 minutes. Wipe away using warm towels.BODY PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Rinse skin with warm towels or sponge. 2. Saturate 4" x 4" gauze with Brightening Pigment Lotion and apply to arms and hands with firm pressure. Blot skin dry. Pour 25% AHA Gel into a glass beaker and apply to hands and arms with a firm brush. Use a dry loofah mitt or towel to brush away grains. PEEL PREP Place 2 Tbs. P E E L A P P L I C AT I O N . Wait 3-5 minutes and apply a second layer of Apple Wine Peel. Work into skin with gloved fingers and let remain on skin for 10 . of Brightening Scrub into a beaker.15 minutes. Work Maui Cleanser into hands and arms. NOTE: For a more intense treatment. massage in thoroughly. Pour Apple Wine Peel into a glass beaker. (A third layer may be applied on thicker. photo-damaged skin. 141 3 . P rep the skin Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Using a firm brush. Apple Wine Peel may be left on skin. Remove using warm. Let absorb into skin.) Remove with warm water and gauze. add 2 droppers of Melanin Suppressant Solution to scrub and mix well. Work into arms and hands. apply one layer to arms and hands. wet towels – rinse several times for complete removal. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N Spray Energizing Peptide Spritz all over arms and hands. 142 . P ost P eel Day 1 TO 7—Have client apply Energizing Peptide Spritz and Nurture Balm once a day. Client may continue regeneration by using Ultra Exfole’ 1-2 times a week and Bio Reform 28 daily.BODY PEELS 4 . Let this remain on skin. Finish with Bio Reform 28 by massaging well into skin. 5 . AFTER ONE WEEK —The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. pat into skin. Recommend Bamboo Scrub in the shower and dry brushing with towel to lift away more skin. 00 143 . Reverses signs of aging. Goals: Exfoliates dead skin cells. This light peel treatment leaves skin polished and glowing. dry skins that may also be done on the chest.BODY PEELS 38. A great protocol for sun-damaged. page 17). PUMPKIN BODY PEEL Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Lightens skin. Smoothes and softens skin tissue.$150. InGreDients: Bamboo Scrub 25% AHA Gel Pro Pumpkin Peel / Melanin Suppressant Solution Energizing Peptide Spritz Ultra Exfole’ / Peel Cream Bio Reform 28 / Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 60 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85.00 . Rinse skin thoroughly with warm towels or sponge.) Remove using warm. Apply the mixture to sections of the body (arms. chest). massage in thoroughly. wet towels – rinse several times for complete removal. P E E L A P P L I C AT I O N Place 2 Tbs. Pour 25% AHA Gel into a glass beaker and apply to hands and arms with 4" x 4" gauze. Work into skin with gloved fingers and let remain on skin for 10 . Wipe away using warm towels. Blot skin dry. Brush away excess grains with dry towel and pat skin dry.15 minutes. P O S T P E E L A P P L I C AT I O N 144 . Work Bamboo Scrub into hands and arms. Leave on skin for 10 . of Pro Pumpkin Peel into a beaker. 2 .BODY PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Spray Energizing Peptide Spritz on body and pat into skin until absorbed. (This is a good time to begin a mini-facial on client. Let this remain on skin.15 minutes. 3 . P rep the skin Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Use gloves when doing this step or hands will dry out. mix well. add 2 droppers of Melanin Suppressant Solution. Follow with an application of Ultra Exfole’ to further loosen and soften dead/ damaged skin. hands. 145 . chest. 5 . Suggest mixing Daytime Defense SPF30 in moisture cream of choice. Recommend Bamboo Scrub in the shower and dry brushing with towel to lift away more skin. AFTER ONE WEEK —The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. Client may continue regeneration by using Ultra Exfole’ 1-2 times a week and Bio Reform 28 daily.BODY PEELS 4 . P ost P eel Day 1 TO 7—Have client apply Energizing Peptide Spritz and Nurture Balm once a day. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N Do a final soothing massage with Bio Reform 28 and Daytime Defense SPF30 all over arms. Sun protection for areas that are being treated is essential. and hands. photo-aged.$150. InGreDients: Maui Cleanser 20% L-Lactic Acid / Ultra Exfole’ Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel Peel Cream Bio Reform 28 / Daytime Defense SPF30 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 60 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $85. Sun-damaged.BODY PEELS 39. RETINOL PEPTIDE PEEL Intensity: Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart. Smoothe and soften skin tissue.00 . Reverse the signs of aging. dry skin.00 146 . Décolleté area and forearms respond well to this treatment. Goals: Exfoliate dead skin cells. mild exfoliation. but noticeable rejuvenation. page 17). Lighten skin. 2 .BODY PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . and hands. F I N A L P E E L A P P L I C AT I O N Pump Peel Cream into hands and apply over Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel. Massage this into skin until almost gone. P rep the skin Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Remove towel and cellophane in 10 minutes. 4 . Work into skin with gloved fingers and let remain on skin. Apply Maui Cleanser to skin and work into décolleté. hands and arms with fan brush or gloved hand. Lay cellophane wrap over area and follow with a hot towel compress. décolleté. 147 . Layer Ultra Exfole’ over this and massage into skin for 5-10 minutes. Thoroughly dry skin and on targeted areas. massage in thoroughly for several minutes. P E E L A P P L I C AT I O N Place Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel into a glass beaker and apply to décolleté. steam mixture off of skin and blot dry. hot towels. Using wet. F I N I S H I N G A P P L I C AT I O N Do a final soothing massage with Bio Reform 28 and Daytime Defense SPF30 all over arms. hands and arms. Let the mixture remain on skin. 3 . Rinse well using warm towels. apply a generous layer of 20% L-Lactic Acid. Additional Support – Energizing Peptide Spritz. Sun protection for areas that are being treated is essential. and Bio Reform 28 or Nurture Balm (Bio Reform 28 is preferred as a treatment therapy – however. For maximum results. Suggest mixing Daytime Defense SPF30 in body cream of choice. sell this treatment in a series of 3. P ost P eel Day 1 TO 5—Have client apply Peel Cream or Ultra Exfole’ to area treated the next 3-5 nights . price point may be a factor to client). Recommended Home Care Kit – Bamboo Scrub / Petite Peel Cream or Ultra Exfole' (this is determined by how damaged area being treated is). 148 . AFTER ONE WEEK —The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation.Energizing Peptide Spritz and Nurture Balm may be applied once a day. NOTE: Treatment may be done every 3 weeks.BODY PEELS 5 . Recommend Bamboo Scrub in the shower and dry brushing with towel to lift away more skin. Client may continue regeneration by using Ultra Exfole’ 1-2 times a week and Bio Reform 28 daily. may also be used on the upper back for additional benefits. dry skin on arms. and decollete’. but worth it for a signature body peel. Skin glows! Lots of steps. Lightens skin.00 149 . M I C R O B O D Y T R E AT M E N T (For Arms. Smoothes and softens skin tissue. page 17).$170. Reverses the signs of aging. InGreDients: Fruit Enzyme Wash Brightening Pigment Lotion 20% Glycolic Acid Cell Conditioner /Liquid Enzyme Peel H2O2 Emulsion Ultra Exfole’ Energizing Peptide Spritz Bio Reform 28 ApproXiMate treatMent tiMe: 60 minutes ApproXiMate Client fee: $125. And Décolleté) Intensity: Aggressive Progressive InDiCations: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick IV (see Fitzpatrick Chart.BODY PEELS 4 0 . Goals: Exfoliates dead skin cells.00 . This treatment merges microdermabrasion with mild acids that gives a very stimulated and polished outcome. Hands. Sun-damaged. hands. brush evenly onto areas being treated. Using a fan brush. Using a fan brush. Prepare Liquid Enzyme Peel by pouring into a glass beaker. 2 . with firm pressure. then remove with warm. heated towels. Let remain on skin for 5 minutes. Saturate 4 " x 4" gauze with Brightening Pigment Lotion and apply to body. P rep the skin Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion.BODY PEELS P ro C e D ure : 1 . Remove mixture with very warm 4" x 4" gauze and then a second rinse with wet. wet towels – follow by dry brushing area to be sure all loosened skin has been removed. Wipe away using warm towels. Let Cell Conditioner absorb completely and leave on skin. A C I D A P P L I C AT I O N Pour Cell Conditioner into a glass beaker. 150 . Work this into skin and let absorb until dry. Work Fruit Enzyme Wash into hands and arms for a thorough cleanse. Blot skin dry. apply an even layer of 20% Glycolic Acid to area. apply one layer to arms and hands. or areas being treated. hands and draped with heated towels. MICRODERMABRASION Prepare Microdermabrasion machine. Blot skin dry. F O L LO W . 4 . Begin abrading skin in back and forth motion. Apply with a fan brush or gloved hand and smooth into skin.U P L I G H T E N I N G AC I D 5 .BODY PEELS 3. Remove 1-1/2 Tbs. Work a small amount of Ultra Exfole’ into skin being treated and then follow with Bio Reform 28 for the ending to a beautiful treatment. this absorbs easily and feels very refreshing to the skin. avoid breaking or bringing skin to pinpoint bleeding. chest. OPTONAL: Saran wrap may be laid on arms. Let remain on skin for 10 minutes and rinse away with warm towels. of H2O2 Emulsion from container and place in a glass beaker. 151 . Brush away corundum powder and wipe skin with warm. wet towels – blot dry. nutrient finishin G M assa G e Spray skin with Energizing Peptide Spritz and blend into skin. apply Drop of Essence Hydration Drops and Nurture Balm. This can be used regularly as skin begins to experience mild exfoliation in about 5-6 days. Use Daytime Defense SPF30 at all times and keep arms/hands protected from exposure. Recommend wearing long sleeved cotton tops.BODY PEELS 6. This is a valuable repair cream. Bio Reform 28 is highly recommended for maintenance and may be used once exfoliation is complete. 152 . POST PEEL Instruct client to not do anything to skin for the rest of day or night – the next morning after shower. Bamboo Scrub is beneficial for daily exfoliation while in the shower. Don’t let pets and babies scratch the skin. Do not wear a Halloween mask the same day you have a peel! Avoid swimming for the first 48 hours. sign. never pick! Premature peeling may damage skin and cause hyperpigmentation. Wear a hat and sunblock every day. Avoid smoking. Don’t use any topicals other than those suggested. Over stimulation and heat will flush the skin and increase the intensity of the peel. sauna. Dyes. Read. 153 . Don’t wear earrings or necklaces until the skin is completely healed. Sleep on back. Don’t have tape. and hot showers for the first three days. Dental work stretches the skin. Don’t do what “Christie” did. and other topical ingredients can be very irritating. Do not do vigorous exercise. Avoid heat! Being outside in the shade can have adverse effects too. and make sure you understand your home care instructions. perfumes.thin G s to re M e M ber to tell your C lient after a peel First and foremost. Avoid excessive alcohol consumption. Return in one week for an assessment. Be aware. Excess heat can be too stimulating. Watch out for whisker burns. Detergents on pillowcases and lying on face can be an irritant to skin. She went roller-skating in the evening with her sunglasses on and developed two large holes on each side of her nose which took months to heal! Don’t hold the phone over your ear for a long period of time. Avoid the sun! Avoid sun exposure for at least two full weeks. Avoid steam baths. chlorine is a skin irritant. Don’t wear a tight headband or hat or glasses that press heavily on the nose. Avoid scratchy clothing on or around the treated area. preservatives. It can also cause light-headedness. bandages. or hot compresses applied to treated areas. Even exposure as brief as walking through a parking lot can have deleterious effects. Call us immediately if there is a problem. Hyper—use bleaching serums such as Naturale’ Mega Serum or Skin Brightening Gel Demarcation caused by uneven application of acid or premature peeling can be effectively addressed with a series of progressive treatments. flu-like syMptoMs Have client drink plenty of water to flush system and possibly suggest the use of Tylenol. InfeCtion Refer to physician for possible antibiotic treatment. Following are some possible reactions and how to address them: ACne Usually disperses and clears up in a relatively short period of time. most complications occur after the client leaves the office. cold packs. PiGMentary ChanGes Hypo/absence of melanin—camouflage. Pruritus (ItChinG) Use Calming Skin Gel or Post Balm. Herpes Determine potential for a Herpes outbreak in initial consultation. refer client to a physician. Treat extreme cases with Blemish Serum or Blemish Complex Cream. have client use over-the-counter cream. 154 . hypodermic needle.C o M pli C ations an D ho W to treat the M Barring allergic reactions (which may usually be avoided with a simple patch test). recommend Sea Gems and/or Arnica Therapy followed by Regenerating Cream (EGF). EDeMa (sWellinG) Use ice. or obtain prescription for Zovirax from physician. Severe swelling may require referral to a physician for a cortisone shot. Do light extraction. the Lam Probe. Uneven streaking. heaDaChe. SurfaCe SCarRinG—CauseD by piCkinG Apply Growth Factor Serum or Serum Plus (EGF) or other Growth Factor formula immediately. Chills. or for extreme cases. If breakout occurs. If it does not. Arnica Therapy. and/or Calming Skin Gel. For longterm redness recommend to use camouflage powders or makeup and wear sunscreen. blotchy—superficial microdermabrasion or light AHA treatments will help eliminate. boDy rash. or Post Balm. mottled. Milia Manually extract—use lancet. SysteMiC reaCtion—liGhtheaDeDness. ErytheMa (reDness) Normally the redness abates within the first 24 hours. If reaction does not subside in 24 hours. Recommend an antihistamine. Have client discontinue use of any other topical until problem is resolved. nausea. RaiseD Rash Calming Skin Gel works well. Re-epithelialiZation. the collagen fibers bundle closer together. Use Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve to provide a wet occlusive immediately following peel and to support positive completion of peeling treatment. It is during the inflammation stage that platelets release growth factors. Granulose tissue forMation & anGioGenisis Re-epithelialization begins within the first 24 hours and is the migration of keratinocytes to the base of the wound and this increases cell proliferation. To reduce heat and cool skin. First Phase . a physical sun block. This results in a wound. SeConD Phase . thirD Phase-ReMoDelinG This stage is the building of collagen. redness. If itching is a problem mix post care with Calming Skin Gel to relieve irritation. If a client is unable to use epidermal growth factor. Instruct client to apply continuously during the first 24-48 hours. redness. The flow of blood is increased as a natural way to supply oxygen and nutrients to the wound. Granulose Tissue Formation begins on the second or third day. The fibroblast is key in this process. and always send home with SPF30. A wound is a disturbance of the normal skin barrier and an alteration of the skin functions.W oun D healin G Chemical peeling causes an injury to the skin that disrupts the protective barrier. This stage of healing and building may take 30 days and more depending on the depth of the wound. recommend Drop of Essence Hydration Drops. the skin. the remodeling phase begins. and the epidermis is thicker. Retinol increases epidermal regeneration and thickness. to reduce inflammation and decrease pain. An occluded or wet wound heals faster than a dry wound. EpiDerMal GroWth FaCtor is a protein that attracts cells to the injured area. water is resorbed. Angiogenisis is the formation of blood vessels. The four signs of inflammation are swelling. apply a generous amount of Sea Gems.InflaMMation An inflammatory response begins immediately when a chemical agent is applied. To encourage a positive healing outcome treat the skin with L-Retinol topical or AHA 2-4 weeks prior to a peel. When the inflammatory phase is completed (no swelling. apply Arnica Therapy. There is no evidence this will increase the efficacy of a peel. an Omega 6 EFA preparation. It is this stage that is responsible for the texture of 155 . heat) usually 5-7 days. It is key in the healing process. and pain or discomfort. heat. When the skin begins exfoliation the application of an epidermal growth factor is extremely critical. The fibroblast is the chief cell involved in the formulation of granulose tissue (a combination of molecules and cells). Assess changes in skin condition. Peels require a period of repair and healing. This is why I stress to anyone performing skin peels that you first and foremost understand the skin and recognize indications for doing or not doing a specific treatment. and tone. In some cases 10 days to two weeks may be appropriate depending on the type of peel. Post care visits may be administered at three possible healing stages: 1. 3. 6. 3. When the skin may be slightly pink. Extract impurities that may have surfaced as a result of the peel. Remember that. You do not want to do the same thing to a skin that has patches of unlifted skin and is still showing signs of redness and irritation as you do to a skin that has completely healed and peeled. when administering a treatment that causes skin to exfoliate. Observe the healing that has taken place. 5. peel intensity. Observe the overall benefit of the peel and post care visit performed. 2. texture. When the skin is still red and tender to the touch. but has otherwise recovered.the post C are V isit Our objective in a post care visit is to: 1. Remove dead skin cells that have not sloughed away. Hydrate and nourish skin. and type of client care program. 2. an injury has taken place. The post care visit approach is different for each of these scenarios. When the skin has totally recovered. 156 . Following are three post-care-visit treatments. one for each possible scenario. A post care visit is recommended one week following the peel. 4. exfoliate. 1 Skin that has healed and totally peeled. SCenario: Goal: InGreDients: Gentle Milk Cleanser / Clarifying Beads (cleanser choice may adjusted by skin type) Purifying Lotion Goats Milk Peeling Cream Sea Gems / Growth Factor Serum / Drop of Essence Hydration Drops Milk Mask / Maui Peel Cucumber Spritz Moisture Au Lait or Exotica Rhodiola Daytime Defense SPF30 OptionAL – Oxygen Spray with Vitamin Nutrients 157 . and nourish the skin. Cleanse. soothe.post C are V isit s C enario n O . P ro C e D ure : 1. CleansinG Cleanse the skin with an appropriate cleanser for the skin type. (For a dry-normal skin, use a mixture of Citrus Gel and Clarifying Beads, for a hyperpigmented skin use the Skin Brightening Cleanser, for an oily, acne-prone skin use the Beta Green Tea, and for a sensitive skin use Gentle Milk & Citrus Gel Cleanser mixed together.) Rinse the skin with warm water and gauze sponges to remove all of the cleanser. NOTE: Mix Clarifying Beads with cleanser to create a mild but gentle scrub to remove surface skin. 2. EXfoliatinG & EXtraCtinG FOR THE EYES: Place a thin film of Moisture Eye Treatment around the eyes and on the eyelids. Apply dampened warm eye pads. Remove 1 tsp. Goats Milk Peeling Cream and put in beaker. Spread evenly on entire face and neck. Steam skin for 10 minutes or wrap face in a heated wet compress. Remove the mixture with a warm gauze sponge and rinse the skin several times. Extractions may be done at this time. 158 3. SoothinG & NourishinG Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Purifying Lotion. Go over entire face and neck. Let remain on skin. Apply three drops of Sea Gems and two drops of Growth Factor Serum. Add Drop of Essence Hydration Drops to cocktail and apply to face and neck. Do a gentle massage for lymphatic drainage. Using a heated compress, steam nutrients into skin – OPTIONAL: Spray with Oxiana nutrients and pure oxygen. Roll chilled Ice Globes over skin prior to mask. 4. FinishinG Mask & HyDration A. ACne-Prone & Oily Skin: Option 1 - Place about 1 tsp. of Green Tea Mask into a glass beaker and apply evenly to face and neck with a soft brush. Leave on skin for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove in 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse well. Option 2 - Spread an even amount of Rosemary Basil Mask to face and neck. 159 B. NorMal, Dry, & SensitiVe Skin: Apply an even layer of chilled Milk Mask to face and neck, for more intensity mix 1 part Maui Peel to mask. Place gauze on the face and go over skin with cold Ice Globes for several minutes. Let mask remain on skin for 10 minutes. Remove with cool gauze sponges. Rinse well. Finish skin with a spray of Cucumber Spritz and Sea Gems - Layer Moisture Au Lait or Exotica Rhodiola as final moisturizer. Apply eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30. 160 soothe.post C are V isit s C enario n O . and nourish the skin. exfoliate. protect (with antioxidants). SCenario: Goal: InGreDients: Citrus Gel Cleanser Derma Peel Sea Gems / Drop of Essence Hydration Drops Milk Mask Oxygen and Vitamins Growth Factor Serum Daytime Defense SPF30 161 . 2 Skin may be slightly pink and not completely finished peeling. Cleanse. Work into skin and the gel will become a watery consistency. Extractions may be done at this time. Remove 1 tsp. CleansinG Cleanse the skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser. EXfoliatinG & EXtraCtinG 162 . Wrap face in a heated compress for 1. 2.2 minutes and then remove peeling mixture. Begin manual massage working Derma Peel into skin until it forms tiny granulars.P ro C e D ure : 1. of Derma Peel and apply to skin. Rinse the skin with warm water and gauze sponges to remove all of the cleanser. NOTE: Whenever possible. Client will continue with post care support until all skin is completely healed. End treatment with a layer of Growth Factor Serum (or other EGF formula) followed by Daytime Defense SPF30.3. 163 . I have always found infusing skin with pure oxygen and vitamins speeds up the healing of the skin. chilled Milk Mask and apply to skin with a soft brush. When mask is removed bathe skin with Oxygen & Vitamin Spray for 10 minutes. NourishinG & MASK Place 3 drops of Sea Gems and 2 drops of Drop of Essence Hydration Drops onto skin and massage gently into skin. Remove with tepid water in 10 minutes. Massage skin for as long as desired – just use gentle movements or lymphatic technique. I use oxygen. Remove 1 tsp. Roll chilled Ice Globes over skin prior to mask. and nourish the skin in order to accelerate the healing process. less is more. Cleanse. so no enzymes. SCenario: Goal: InGreDients: Gentle Milk Cleanser Calming Skin Gel Post Balm Lubricating Ointment / Arnica Therapy Milk Mask Oxygen & Vitamin Spray Growth Factor Serum Daytime Defense SPF30 164 . soothe. acids. or harsh scrubs should be used.post C are V isit s C enario n O . 3 Skin is still too pink and tender to the touch. It is important to understand that in this stage of healing. CleansinG Gently cleanse with Gentle Milk Cleanser. 165 . Apply heated compress to skin. Place gauze on the face and neck and go over entire area with cold Ice Globes for several minutes. Let absorb. Arnica Therapy and Calming Skin Gel on entire face and neck. May require two cleanses. NourishinG & HEALING Bathe skin for 10 minutes with oxygen and mycelized vitamins. SoothinG Spread a thin layer of equal parts of Post Balm Lubricating Ointment. Only extract very surfaced lesions that require little effort. layer a generous amount of Milk Mask that has been cooled on ice or in the refrigerator. Remove the mixture in 10 to 15 minutes with cool gauze sponges. Schedule another session for heavier extraction when skin is less sensitive. 2. Apply Daytime Defense SPF30. Over the mixture. 3. Let remain on the skin. Rinse with soft gauze sponges and warm water. Finish with Growth Factor Serum.P ro C e D ure : 1. IMpure A. it is of utmost importance that you direct your clients to appropriate home care regimens. observing. Naturale’ Mega Brightening Serum (3-4 times a week) Skin Smoothing Gel (three times a week) Weekly or TWiCe a Week Skin Brightening Enzyme 3. antioxidants.M. retinol. and assessing you can create the ideal program—one that will assist your clients in reaching their optimum skin goals.M. Therefore.NorMal to CoMbination A.Prone Skin . and by listening. P. Gentle Milk Cleanser & Pumpkin Cleanser Purifying Lotion (antioxidant) P. eye serums. enzymes. through the peeling procedure and after. Customization is the name of the game. Skin Brightening Cleanser/Brightening Pigment Lotion Regenerating Cream or Growth Factor Serum/ Brightening Cream Enhanced Brightening Scrub Daytime Defense SPF 30 (reapply as needed) A. Dry.M. Keep in mind you are dealing with individuals. P. Additional specialty products can enhance and quicken results.M. masks. You have an abundance of choices. Next in importance is a supportive cell rejuvenator. SensitiVe.M. is as important as the office treatment. Take into consideration not only the skin’s needs. AHAs.M.Oily. These are the basics. & P. & AGinG Skins A. & P. A.M .M. & P.ho M e C are What a client uses on a daily basis. L-ascorbic acid.Milk Mask There are many possible variations and combinations of the above regimens.M. 2. 166 . Do your best to create the most effective regimen. Specialty products include pumice and buffing washes. but cost and time it takes to use a product.M. Everyone is different and not everything works for everyone. Glycolic Herbal Wash/All Purpose Cleansing Pads Beta Green Tea Lotion Growth Factor Gel eZinc Protection Cream Blemish Complex (spot-treat lesions only) 1.M. ACne . Super C Serum Antioxidant Complex Serum Regenerating Cream Daytime Defense SPF 30 (reapply as needed) Weekly Pumpkin Parfait Enzyme or Pumice Wash Impure Skin Mask Eye & Lip Repair Serum Organic A Complex (3-4 times a week) Drop Of Essence Hydration Drops Weekly Cherry Jubilee Enzyme . Following are three general home care regimens specific to different skin types and conditions. and topical medications. HyperpiGMenteD .M. The most important part of a home care routine is a cleanser and sun protection. A. nighttime moisturizers. peptides. so you can understand what makes them work and so you have a starting point in case you want or need to make substitutions. AHA Gel ( 25%) Glycolic. Brightening Pigment Lotion A melanin suppressant toner with daisy flower extract. However. Blemish Complex A BPO compound of organic oxides and glycolic acid that kills acne-causing bacteria. Apple Wine Peel A concentrate of wine extracts and L-Malic and L-Tartaric acids. Antioxidant Complex Serum A potent blend of antioxidant and nutrients. Over the years. 167 . leaves skin refreshed. Bio Reform 28 An age reversal complex with EGF. so I stay away from synthetics as much as possible. and isoflavones to restore and reform youthful body tissue. salicylic acid. Bamboo Scrub A granular body scrub with bamboo and pearl extracts. and L-lactic acid. L-Malic. Beta Green Tea Cleanser Salicylic acid and antioxidant cleanser for all skin types.pro D u C t G lossary I know there are many great products on the market. gives skin a youthful. I have described each. rice peptide. antioxidants. I like how natural. amino acids. plant-derived ingredients work. discomfort. Beta Action Scrub A sea algae granular scrub with antibacterial support. I use products that work well on their own and that I can combine effectively. vitamins. L-Lactic. and hydrated. plant stem cells. and heart of green tea. Arnica Therapy A concentrate of Arnica to relieve pain. L-Tartaric. and L-Citric gel with a pH of 3. and totarol that reduces swelling and dries up excess sebum. Following is a list of the products I use in my treatments. Blushed Wine Gel A firming and toning gel great for post-menopausal skin. Beta Green Tea Lotion Salicylic acid. Blemish Serum A naturally soothing antibacterial which combats problematic skin and helps to clear skin blemishes. I have developed certain product preferences. swelling and inflammation.0. I can only tell you about what I’ve used and what works for me. iridescent glow. All Purpose Cleansing Pads Soft cleansing pads are soaked in a natural anti-bacterial solution (Totarol) and green tea extracts. Beta Refine Mask Clay-based mask made of sulfur. polished. totarol (natural anti-bacterial). I always prefer using products that deliver the best results with the least risk. minerals. rashes. increases collagen production and improves texture. D-Alpha Tocopherol. and amino acids to fortify skin. Citrus Gel Cleanser Citrus-based foamy cleanser for all skin types. eZinc Protection Cream A natural zinc oxide complex with an SPF of 18. Flower Acid Peel Flower Acids. supports and corrects problematic. pineapple. 168 . promotes collagen production. and swelling.Contains Omega 6. renewed. and helps correct deep wrinkles and skin sag. Fruit Acid Botanical Plant-based AHAs and beta acids that strip and heal the skin. Daytime Defense SPF30 A natural zinc oxide-based sun protector and moisturizer. Energizing Peptide Spritz A synergistic blend of peptides and energizing actives.Brightening Scrub Kojic and L-Asorbic Acid help lighten and brighten skin tone as jojoba beads gently exfoliate the skin. Cacti Mud Mask A clay-based mask with natural exfoliating action to reduce cellular cohesion for smoother skin and vitamins. and hydrated as the fruity aroma of mango. redness. Drop of Essence Hydration Drops A retail version of professional Omega 6 EFA . evens skin tissue. antioxidant and moisturizing benefits. Calming Skin Gel A blend of aloe. Bromelain Enzyme Paste A digestive enzyme from pineapple and Salicylic Acid. and hydrocortisone especially indicated for irritations. Gentle Milk Cleanser Shea butter and pure milk extracts. itching. and oily skins. and papaya extracts exhilarate the senses. blended with Phytic and Pyruvic Acid – Mandelic Acid and enhanced with Hibiscus Fruit Enzyme Wash Natural fruit acids and potent antioxidants combine to form this foaming. all-purpose bath and shower gel that leaves skin polished. thick. willow herb. Cell Conditioner A lipid-reducing peel prep or mixing agent. Derma Peel A naturally healing papaya exfoliant that removes cellular build-up. and essential oils of geranium and lavender. Azelaic acid at its best. Clarifying Beads Jojoba bead all-purpose cleanser for deep pore cleaning. coarse. deep pore cleanser for the treatment room.Glycolic Acid (20%) A polymer-based gel (which allows for a more even distribution) with a pH of 2. 50%) An all-natural L-Lactic acid polymer with a pH of 2. Glycolic Herbal Wash Foamy. stripping. thyme. D-Alpha Tocopherol. Grape Seed Hydrating Serum An all natural. Phytic and Pyruvic Acid complex with Flower Acids for lightening benefits. and Pyruvic Acid. Growth Factor Gel/Serum/Plus Concentrated blends of epidermal growth factor for wound repair and cellular regeneration. firming and toning benefits.5. salicylic acid and acetic acid complex. this is a potent. L-Lactic Acid (20%. Hibiscus Peel A healing Mandelic. purifying mask with wasabia root extract. green tea extract. Italian Herbal Peel A mixture of oregano. Phytic. and hydrogen peroxide. Kojic Clay TCA A setting clay mask with Lactic Acid. and D-Alpha Tocopherol. vitamin A.5. Mandelic Arginine Peel A gentle healing. Liquid Enzyme Peel A unique blend of papain. A blend of hydrating and stimulating nutrients. age-reducing rejuvenator. lactic acid. Honey. basil extracts. TCA. Green Tea Mask A stimulating. Maui Cleanser With pineapple and L-Lactic Acid. H202 Emulsion A blend of salicylic acid. Calendula. and ursolic and salicylic acid. nutrient enriched oil that provides skin with a blend of vitamins and antioxidants. digestive and exfoliating benefits as well as healing and anti-bacterial properties. and promotes healthy skin. Paprika. minimizes hyperpigmentation. a perfect addition to most treatments. glycolic-based cleanser that assists in the removal of oils and residue. Beta Hibiscus Peel A blend of Flower Acids with Mandelic. Grape Seed Parfait Mask An antioxidant mask that offers moisturizing. Lotus Peel A modified Jessner solution with flower acids for additional lightening benefits. reduces the signs of aging. 169 . improves blood circulation and clarifies skin . Honey Paprika Mask Carotene.also beneficial for upper-body areas. Hydra Complex Serum A potent blend pure grape seed extracts and oils combined with natural yam extract. and Kojic Acid. glycolic acid. Post Balm Nourishing lubricant that is anti-inflammatory. Pepsin & Papain Enzymes Naturally occurring digestive exfoliant that helps prepare the skin for treatment. and hydrate. and pineapple extracts. soothes. and boswellic acid (anti-inflammatory). Melanin Suppressant Solution A blend of bleaching substances in a tomato extract base used to enhance evenness of skin tone. valuable for photo-aged.antioxidant and Pumpkin Peel Extracts of pure pumpkin that dissolve keratin cells. replenishes. 170 . bromelain enzyme. cream-based mixture that encourages cell renewal and assists in the repair of skin wounds. lubricate. MVC Serum A multi-vitamin nutrient concentrate that supports skin health. antioxidants.Maui Peel With a wonderful pineapple aroma. Pumpkin E Serum tissue respirator. Pumice Wash Antibacterial cleanser containing BPO and salicylic acid. and rejuvenates skin. A blend of pumpkin extracts high in beta carotene and zinc and D. this mask purifies. Omega 6 EFA Specially formulated Omega 6 essential fatty acids that heal. nutrient deprived skin.alpha tocopherol . Milk Mask Prepared from pure milk protein. soothes. potent antioxidant. rosemary. firms. Pumpkin Cleanser A natural enzyme based foamy cleanser with L-lactic acid and pumpkin extracts. and mild retinoic acid subtitute. Raspberry Lotion Healing toner that reduces lipids and shiny appearance on skin. Regenerating Cream Epidermal Growth Factor in an all-natural. tones. high in valuable nutrients—calms. Peel Cream A blend of all five AHAs. and clarifies skin with a combination of L-lactic acid. laser and other procedures. Natural Lift Activator An advanced moisture complex with vitamins. anti-itching and antibacterial. Pro Salve Lubricating occlusive to relieve tightness and discomfort following peels. nourishes and hydrates. and AHAs. Pro Pumpkin Peel An exfoliation accelerator. Rosemary Basil Mask Healing and soothing mask containing extracts of basil. tightens skin. Therapy E Serum A water-binding natural humectant. Sea Gems A mitochondria complex with stem cell technology. Skin Brightening Cleanser An all-natural cleanser boosted with lightening agents to assist in the suppression of melanin production. Rice Ferment. 15%) TCA blended with L-Lactic and Glycolic acid. TCA/Salicylic TCA blended with Salicylic acid. Tomato Enzyme Peel Naturally dissolves stratum corneum cells while eliminating bacteria and excess lipids. oily skin. TCA/AHA (10%. Super C Serum Collagen-building. Salicylic Peeling Cream Contains 25% salicylic acid. reduces fine lines. Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel A unique peeling formula with peptide action and natural amino acid exfoliators.Sake Peel A Phytic/Pyruvic. and fights free radical damage. useful in the treatment of acne. TCA/Salicylic Acid blend. 171 . reduces wrinkle formation and provides thermal reduction to traumatized skin. antioxidant support. scars. and sun-damaged. Salicylic Solution A revised Modified Jessner formula that uses TCA in place of resorcinol. Also supports acne skin healing. Vitamin E provides antioxidant and healing support. aging skin. Ultra Exfole' A body peel cream that supports tissue repair from photo-aging and skin deterioration. month following treatment. freckles.peeling sessions should not be done while client is having procedures .peeling may be done same day of injectible before filler but numbing agent is not recommended due to potential irritation or wait 2 weeks following procedure. Collagen An injectable filler derived from bovine cowhide . Cryo Pen Hand held nitrous oxide delivery to remove pigmentation. Hydroquinone A tyrosinase inhibitor and bleaching agent. glass bulbs that are iced until very cold and are rolled on the skin to calm or reduce inflammation.wait one month from final Foto Facial.peeling may be done same day of injectible before filler but numbing agent is not recommended due to potential irritation or wait 2 weeks following procedure.prescription strength. Discontinue peeling for one Thermage Intense heat and light wave that affects fibroblast and increases collagen production. vitamins. Oxiana System Oxygenate skin—pure oxygen.peels may be done the day before or day after procedure. pigmentation spots. Foto Facial A pulsed-light therapy that affects capillary issues (redness) and hyperpigmentation . client should stop use of product 2 weeks prior to peel. Radiance As of this time. Restylane A filler from stabilized synthetic hyaluronic acid .Potential of Hydrogen The scale used to determine acidity and alkalinity. Melaquin 3% hydroquinone . Cauterization Radio frequency effectively removes skin tags. 172 . and minerals that hydrate and nourish the skin pH . Peeling may be done 3-4 weeks prior to procedure and 12-16 weeks following procedure.ter M s an D Mo D alities Botox Injections using botchulism to paralyze muscles diminishing fine lines. CO2 Laser An aggressive skin resurfacing using light wave to vaporize skin.Tretinoin. a non-approved by FDA injectable filler .peeling may be done same day of injectible before filler but numbing agent is not recommended due to potential irritation or wait 2 weeks following procedure. cholesterol deposits. Ice Globes Round. and telangiectasia. Retin A A Vitamin A derivative . generally repeated every 3-4 months . Cosmeceutical A term used for products that are more active than cosmetics but not considered drugs. Should be taken 2 weeks prior to peeling procedure. I recommend you limit peeling procedures when clients are receiving treatments from someone else and continually ask your clients if they have done anything new since you last saw them. Valtrex An anti-viral medication to suppress Herpes Simplex. 173 . Technology is constantly changing and new methods for skin restoration and rejuvenation are being developed.Tyrosine An enzyme that produces melanin from melanocytes. I have given some guidelines for what is current now. equipment. Call the corporate office to receive class schedules.com Rhonda Allison Clinical Research offers continuing educational courses for all levels of skin rejuvenation. . Additional information may also be obtained on the official Rhonda Allison web site at www.rhondaallison.C O N TAC T U S For information on any of the products. or accessories used for procedures contact the corporate office of Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises at 817-410-9899.
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