Taste Buds and Molecules (2010) The Art and Science of Food with Wine By: François Chartier Book Review by Nicole Chau Bibliographic Information Hailing from the Canadian province of Quebec, François Chartier has established himself as a world-renowned sommelier- a specialist in wine services and food and wine pairings. He is the author of many bestselling and award-winning books which include À Table avec François Chartier, La Sélection Chartier (an annual wine-buying guide), Taste Buds and Molecules, among others. As the only Canadian presented with the prestigious “Grand Prix Sopexa International” and the holder of Quebec’s highest honour, “L’Ordre National du Québec,” Chartier’s achievements are far and numerous (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). His great work and conspicuous recognition come from over twenty years of pioneering research into the molecular mechanisms that govern gastronomic pleasures. Through scientific literature and collaboration with chefs and scientists, Chartier acquired gourmet knowledge of the principle volatile compounds that give foods and wines their characteristic taste and aroma. This led him to map out molecular relationships between two foods, as well as between a wine and a food, to enable harmonious pairing. As a new scientific domain, molecular gastronomy is anything but stable; it is constantly redefining the limits of our pleasure (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). In 2009, Chartier published this insightful and innovative body of work in a non-fiction book titled Taste Buds and Molecules. To cater to a larger audience around the world, Levi Reiss, who introduces himself as an “American-born Francophile,” translated the original French edition into English. This English version was published in 2010 by Toronto publishing company McClelland & Stewart Ltd. The book received positive acclaim and numerous awards, including the prestigious “World’s Best Innovative Food Book” which was presented in Paris. Very few can deny Chartier’s exceptional talent as this book has, and will continue to, benefit chefs, sommeliers, and diners alike. By opening the door to the once hidden world of aromas and flavours, molecular gastronomy is a revolution that steers us to create new recipes and spontaneous food and wine pairings (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). This review of Taste Buds and Molecules will analyze the content (specifically food and wine pairings) as well as comment on the subject matter and writing style of the book. Comments on Subject Matter: Modern Adaptations of Taste In his book Taste Buds and Molecules, François Chartier introduces readers to an exciting facet of molecular gastronomy- food and wine pairing. By sharing a plethora of hints, ideas, and recipes backed up by scientifically sound research, Chartier lays the groundwork for culinary creativity and gastronomic pleasure. This book focuses on various foods, their molecular composition, as well as their complementary pairings with wine and other foods. However, the subject matter of this book also provides insights into the ways by which humans today can transform elements of taste to maximize their dining pleasure. These “modern” ways include using aromas to identity and appreciate taste, pairing complementary foods, and pairing food with wine. Using Aromas to Identify and Appreciate Taste “Aromas are one of the fundamental elements that contribute to a wine’s sensory character.” – Revue des Oenologues, 2006 As an extension of this quote to include foods, researchers later found that 80% to 90% of all sensations that stimulate our appetite come from fragrances (or aromas) (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). However, the role of aromas in helping us identify and appreciate tastes can be best understood with an example. Chartier effectively provides such an example in his book by describing the experience of biting into an apple while plugging the nose- although you can detect the acidity and feel the texture, you cannot sense the actual flavour or aroma. In other words, the characteristic taste of apples (or any food and beverage per se) comes partly from the flavour, but mostly from the various aromatic molecules becoming gaseous and wafting into your nose (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Aromas not only help to complete the sensory experience, but also help to reinforce our emotions and behaviours. For instance, the fragrance of certain foods and drinks may lead to negative reinforcements through feelings of disgust or satiety, while the fragrance of other foods and drinks may instead lead to positive reinforcements through feelings of desire or hunger. As Jean-Paul Guerlain once said, “perfume is the most intense form of memory” (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Bringing this quote into the context of foods and drinks, we can understand that aromas have the greatest impact on our dining choices because our most vivid recollection of a meal involves its smell. According to scientific literature, aromas are determined by volatile compounds, which make up only 0.05% to 1% of the total molecular weight of foods and beverages. Amazingly, these aromatic compounds are unique, as scientists have yet to find two structurally different compounds that have the same fragrances. However, even for two very similar fragrances, the sensitivity of our sense of smell allows us to distinguish between them with high accuracy. The number of volatile compounds presently known approximates 40 million, and their classifications include (but are not limited to) acids, alcohols, phenols, and esters (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). There is a popular belief that each ingredient, food, and drink has a single scent derived from a single aromatic molecule. However, we now know that even at the level of a single ingredient, there is a mixture of aromatic molecules that work together to provide the signature olfactory sensation. For instance, pineapples are composed of multiple compounds such as eugenol (aroma of clove), vanillin (aroma of vanilla), furaneol (aroma of caramel), and esters such as ethyl butanoate and ethyl propanoate- both of which give off a distinctive pineapple fragrance. The combination of these compounds confers the signature pineapple aroma that is sugary sweet and sharply acidic. In other cases, an aromatic compound may dominate others in the mixture with respect to percentage or intensity, thereby conveying the principle aroma. Examples of aromatic domination include eugenol, the principle compound in cloves (pictured above right); cinnamaldehyde, the principle compound in cinnamon; and capsaicin, the principle compound responsible for chili peppers’ “burning” sensation (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). For many years, the food and beverage industry has mirrored humans’ priority on flavours. Because we tend to base our dining choices on how something “tastes” or “smells,” most processed foods nowadays contain flavour additives in the form of synthetic molecules. However, are synthetic additives really the best way to enhance our flavour perception? Based on this book, the answer is a simple “no” because we can better identify and appreciate tastes using their aromas. Chartier describes that the process of aromatic sensation occurs through two stages; the first is direct olfactory perception at the nose, and the second is indirect aroma arrival from the mouth (through the nasal passages) to the olfactory mucous membrane (Lesschaeve, 2015). The brain then combines these complex aromatic sensations with taste sensations, allowing us to perceive the full flavour (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Therefore, instead of using synthetic additives, we should take the time to really experience and savour what we eat and drink, in order to dissect the individual aromatic compounds that make up a general fragrance. Unlike several decades ago, humans today live in a world brimming with scientific knowledge about aromatic compounds. As such, we now know to “linger” and not rush our meals… Pairing Complementary Foods By identifying the principle volatile molecules that underlie the aromas of various foods, we gain the powerful ability to create harmonious food pairings. It is through this science-based approach that we can enhance our favourite meals and create new recipes, either of which will help us maximize the pleasure of our taste buds. In his book, Chartier provides many pertinent examples to explore how harmonious food pairings can modify the perception of flavours. Two such examples are: pairing heat-evoking foods with sugary and fatty foods (which enhances flavour perception), and pairing two cold-evoking foods (which reduces sugary perception and reinforces acidic, bitter, and salty sensations). The principle volatile compound that is responsible for chili peppers’ “burning” sensation is called capsaicin. Although it does not result in true temperature increase, capsaicin does activate heat receptors to elicit a pseudo-sensation of physical heat in the mouth. Besides stimulating nerve endings to impart a neurological effect on the brain, capsaicin also generates temporary inflammation in the mouth. The combination of nerve stimulation and mouth inflammation increases the sensitivity of taste buds for temperature, pressure, acidity, saltiness, and carbon dioxide (found in carbonated drinks such as beer and sparkling wine) (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). In other words, capsaicin augments our perception of flavour by increasing the sensitivity of our taste buds. However, it is important to note that although small doses of capsaicin can act as a flavour enhancer, higher doses may actually have the reverse effect of reducing our sensitivity to taste and aromas. This occurs due to a redirection of attention to the increased capsaicin levels (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Although capsaicin is insoluble in water, it is soluble in sugary and fatty substances as well as in alcohol. Therefore, chili peppers can effectively be paired with sugary foods (such as rice, pineapples, and sweet peppers) as well as fatty foods (such as butter, milk, and olive oil); the majority of the capsaicin will dissolve (preventing effect reversal due to “overdose”), with only a small amount remaining in the mouth to enhance flavour perception of the paired food. Besides chili peppers, spices such as cinnamon, coriander, and oregano are also rich in capsaicin albeit to a smaller extent (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). On the opposite end of the spectrum, aromatic compounds such as menthol in mints, gingerol in ginger, and eugenol in apples provoke a cold (and refreshing) sensation in the mouth. These coldevoking compounds have been found to diminish the perception of sugar, while heightening the perception of acidity, bitterness, and saltiness. Dishes that are served very cold should therefore contain only slivers of acidic, bitter, and salty flavours in order to avoid overshooting the intensity of these flavours. As well, cold-evoking compounds have a calming effect by soothing the heat of spices and lowering (cooling) the temperature of dishes. Therefore, in order to bring out the acidic, bitter, and salty flavours, or to arouse a soothing/calming effect, a dish composed entirely of cold-tasting ingredients is desired. This can be achieved through complementary pairing of apples, carrots, cinnamon, ginger, lemongrass, mint, wasabi… all of which are cold-tasting foods (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Pairing Food with Wine Research into the volatile molecules that are responsible for aromas not only opened the door to harmonious food pairings, as discussed above, but also to food and wine pairings. Scientifically speaking, the sharing of identical (or similar) aromatic molecules between a food and a wine gives rise to important chemical interactions. In other words, certain ingredients function as harmonious bridges to certain wines to guarantee favourable and concordant pairings. Similar to food pairings, complementary combinations of food and wine can also modify the perception of flavours, allowing the pleasures from eating and drinking to mutually enhance one another at the table (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). In Taste Buds and Molecules, Chartier reveals numerous ways by which we can pair food and wine to maximize gastronomic delight. One way involves pairing food and wine according to molecules that determine the temperature sensation (e.g. heat or cold) the food or wine will evoke. With respect to heat-evoking foods such as chili peppers (which contain the molecule capsaicin), it is important to choose wines that can “calm the fire.” Due to capsaicin’s solubility in fatty and sugary substances as well as in alcohol, sweet and high-alcoholic (above 14.5%) wines such as German Riesling and French Vouvray pair well with spicy dishes. Chartier reveals that red wines (e.g. Zinfandel) and vanilla-tasting wines (e.g. New World Merlots) can also calm the intensity of capsaicin. However, due to carbon dioxide’s ability to prolong capsaicin’s burning effect, carbonated beverages such as beer and sparkling wine should not be served with chili peppers (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). As mentioned, the induction of temporary inflammation in the mouth by capsaicin augments the sensitivity to temperature, among other things. Therefore, because the sensation to cold becomes ultra-sensitive, wine should be served slightly warmer than usual when in the presence of hot peppers. However, past a certain alcoholic threshold (14.5% by volume), the wine actually releases heat that combines with the heat of capsaicin to intensify the burning sensation. Such wines should therefore be served at a temperature colder than usual to “extinguish” the fire (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). With respect to cold-evoking foods, the temporary anesthetizing effect on taste buds can “transform” the perception of flavour in paired wines by slowing the release and propagation of aromatic molecules. Unfortunately, this transformed flavour perception is further enhanced if the wine too is served very cold. One example of a change in flavour perception is the reduced sweet sensation, which means that cold-evoking foods pair well with “sugary” wines, namely sweet white wines and dessert wines (e.g. Sauternes). As well, the reinforced perception of acidity and bitterness due to cold-evoking foods also identifies the importance of avoiding overly acidic or bitter-tasting wines. Moreover, cold-evoking foods can lower the perception of a wine’s temperature. As compensation for this perceivably cooler temperature, Chartier recommends either serving the wine warmer than usual or selecting an alcoholic-rich wine to arouse the sensation of heat in the mouth (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Comments on Writing Style In Taste Buds and Molecules, François Chartier has taken a very effective approach to presenting the results of his research on gastronomic mechanisms and wine and food pairings. Instead of publishing a scientific paper or journal, which would have predominantly catered to researchers and scholars alike, he published a non-fiction book in the form of a practical guide. The practicality of this guide stems from its ability to deliver accurate and useful information in an engaging and easy-to-read method. From cover to cover, Chartier supplements the main text structure with richly illustrated and photographed images, organized flowcharts and summaries, and vibrant colours and styles. At the core of the practical guide is the information and context. Chartier opens with an honest and delightful introduction, which addresses what the book is about, why it was written (including background on his research), and what readers should take away. In the chapters that follow, he delves into the wonderful world of wine and food pairings. Writing style, which includes diction and tone, can be defined as the way in which something is written to affect the reader’s impression and understanding. From the first page to the last, Chartier presents information in a manner appropriate for both the audience and the purpose of the writing. The audience is defined to be novice and professional chefs and sommeliers as well as anyone who enjoys eating and drinking, while the purpose of the writing is to inspire readers to pair harmonious foods and wines in daily and festive cuisines. Chartier effectively uses language (diction) at a level appropriate for his audience who may not have had any background in organic chemistry; for instance, he does not go into the technical details about specific chemical interactions between aromatic molecules. Formal writing is achieved in this book by limiting the use of contractions and passive voices. Consistency in writing style throughout the book also contributes to formality, as switching styles not only distracts readers but also decreases the author’s credibility. Furthermore, many descriptive adjectives are used throughout the book to provide clearer explanations and create more vivid imageries or sensations. Chartier also writes thoroughly (only a few may think he is “wordy”), taking the time and space to expand on each point with examples or explanations. Overall, in Taste Buds and Molecules, Chartier has written effectively to communicate to the audience and his style can be described as formal, descriptive, and thorough. Book Rating From its adorning photos to its easy-to-follow tips and recipes, “Taste Buds and Molecules” is a highly intriguing and practical guide for chefs, diners, and anyone in between. Despite little scientific elucidations, François Chartier presents the aromatic molecules that give foods and wines their characters, leaving readers inquisitive for more. With intellect, creativity, and audacity, the chapters unfold to reveal exquisite (and unexpected) pairings. This a groundbreaking book, one that stimulates the wildest culinary fantasies! Afterword: Critical Assessment Relevance to Course From a broad perspective, the subject matter presented in this book carries significant relevance to the course Health Science 3TA3, Matters of Taste. Near the beginning of the course, there was a strong focus on understanding the molecular mechanisms of taste and the signal transduction pathways. Problems 1 and 2 specifically dealt with these topics, eventually shaping our learning objectives to include the anatomy and physiology of taste buds, the olfactory system, and food industry adaptations. Despite the effective learning that resulted from research articles, class discussions, and guest speakers, non-fiction books like this one can provide an interesting lens through which to build on our knowledge of these topics. As well, François Chartier explores the history and evolution of certain foods and wines, a nod to the cultural transmutations of taste that were discussed in this course. During class, we explored the molecular mechanisms of taste with respect to taste buds and taste cells, as well as neurotransmitters and signal transduction pathways. It is through these discussions that we realized the extreme complexity of taste perception. This fact is paralleled in the book as Chartier mentions his lengthy and arduous research into the aromatic molecules that govern how taste is perceived. Furthermore, Chartier admits that the field of molecular gastronomy is dynamic because scientists and researchers are always discovering new facts that build upon their existing knowledge of taste perception (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). Secondly, from this course, we learned that taste perception is not exclusive to the gustatory system. Rather, the gustatory system works in collaboration with the olfactory system to accomplish the task of taste perception. Therefore, the taste of the foods we eat is also dependent upon the aromas that stimulate our olfactory system. From the book Taste Buds and Molecules, we can further understand this interplay between gustation and olfaction: directly through the words of the author (“aromatic molecules…give foods and wines their taste”), and indirectly through the presentation of various aromatic molecules involved in the taste of foods and wines (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). And finally, we devoted one or two classes in this course to talk about the food industry, and its attempts to modify foods to address the growing concern of high sodium and of diseases like hypertension, while still maintaining the taste that consumers love. Possible solutions that were brought up include the replacement of salt with salt substitutes that have similar chemical structures, and reducing actual salt content by pairing salt with umami compounds (which can enhance salty taste). This book is therefore relevant to the course because it touches upon similar topics. For instance, Chartier reveals that foods with similar aromatic molecules can be interchanged in recipes, and that the pairing of harmonious foods and wines can augment their individual taste. Overall Significance On the topic of taste, French connoisseur Brillat-Savarin expressed nearly two centuries ago: “Taste…is still the sense that…provides us with the greatest pleasure” (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). In other words, taste is a fundamental and universal human experience. It defines how we choose food, how we think about food, and how we remember food. There is no surprise then that as humans we always strive to enhance the tastes of what we eat, from devouring cookbooks to adding herbs and spices to our recipes. Throughout the book, François Chartier have paid tribute to this humanly sensation by suggesting food and wine pairings that will “enhance the pleasure of our taste buds.” From the vividly adorned and illustrated food visuals to the organization of text and graphics, this book shares with readers a new approach to expanding the limits of pleasure of our taste buds. For instance, Chartier reveals that due to their overlapping molecular compounds, a wonderful aromatic familiarity can be experienced by tasting pineapples and strawberries one after the other (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). This book also provides insights into the ways by which humans today can adapt taste to maximize their dining experience, owing to innovative research like that of Chartier’s. These possible “modern” adaptations include using aromas to identity and appreciate taste, pairing complementary foods, and pairing food with wine. New groundbreaking research into molecular gastronomy has opened the door to an array of culinary possibilities, from food and wine pairings to innovative recipe transformations. As humans, we now have the knowledge to transform and revolutionize tastes, something that we did not have even decades ago… References Chartier, F., & Reiss, L. (2010). Taste buds and molecules. Toronto: McClelland & Stewart. Lesschaeve, I. (2015). Aroma and taste are perceived through our "chemical senses". Wine Tasting Demystified. Retrieved 1 April 2016, from http://www.winetastingdemystified.com/chemical-senses.html