UNIT VFORMULATION & EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO V.MANIMARAN LECTURER DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS SRM COLLEGE OF PHARMACY CONTENTS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Introduction Types of Shampoos Product Ingredients Formulation Evaluation of Shampoos References 4. excessive sebum or other fatty substances and loose corneal cells from the hair. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user.• Definition: A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i. dirt. It should impart a pleasant fragnance to the hair. 5. It should not make the hand rough and chapped. solid or powder – which when used under the specified conditions will remove surface grease. • Requirements of a Shampoo: 1. It should not cause any side‐effects / irritation to skin or eye. 3. It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil. surface active material) in a suitable form – liquid. 2. 6. 7.e. lustrous with good manageability and minimum fly away. soft. and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user. Introduction . It should leave the hair non‐dry. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water. Shampoos are of the following types: ¾ Powder Shampoo ¾ Liquid Shampoo ¾ Lotion Shampoo ¾ Cream Shampoo ¾ Jelly Shampoo ¾ Aerosol Shampoo ¾ Specialized Shampoo • • • • Conditioning Shampoo Anti‐ dandruff Shampoo Baby Shampoo Two Layer Shampoo Types of Shampoo . PRODUCT INGREDIENTS • Surfactants are the main component of shampoo. . foam and hair condition. Principal surfactants: Provide detergency and foam. 2. • The raw materials used in the manufacture of shampoos are: 1. CLEANSING ACTION OF SHAMPOO A surfactant consists of two part‐ one hydrophilic (water loving) while the other is hydrophobic in nature. Other additives. Mainly anionic surfactants are used. Secondary surfactants: Improve detergency. 3. ¾ Ampholytics. they may be used in low concentration in hair conditioners. The hydrophilic portion carries a negative charge which results in superior foaming.Surfactants ¾ Anionic surfactants are mostly used (good foaming properties). However. ¾ Non‐ionic surfactants have good cleansing properties but do not have sufficient foaming power. ¾ Cationic surfactants are toxic and are hence not used. being expensive. are generally not used. . cleaning and end result attributes. However. they are mainly used as secondary surfactants and good hairconditioners. Sodium sec‐lauryl sulfate Low cost. easy to wash. free from their salts rancidity. dissapointing as detergets and shampoo components Stable in acid or alkaline solution. act as solvents for non polar additives Excellent foaming and conditioning action Less irritating to skin and eye (baby shampoo) Hydrolysation product of proteins with fatty acid chlorides in presence of alkali Triton X200 Lauric monoglyceride ammonium sulfate Derivatives of lauryl alcohol ether with PEG Lauroyl and cocoyl sarcosines Aerosol OT Protalbinic and lysalbinic acid derivatives (maypon 4C) . detergent and wetting agent. extremely stable at pH of skin Stable in hard water Good cleansers. dispersing and emulsifying action.ANIONIC SURFACTANTS CLASS Alkyl benzene sulfonates Primary alkyl sulfates Secondary alcohol sulfates Alkyl benzene polyoxyethylene sulfonates Sulfated monoglycerides Alkyl ether sulfates Sarcosines Sulfosuccinates Maypon EXAMPLE Sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate COMMENT Tend to yield an “airy” or low density foam and often are drying to the hair Lauric acid. excellent emulsifier. stearic acid and Good lathering effect in hard water. Baby shampoos . mild. can be used in high % Solubilizers and emulsifiers.NON‐IONIC SURFACTANTS CLASS Fatty acid alkanolamides (should not be used > 15%) Polyalkoxylated derivatives EXAMPLE Lauric monoethanolamide Stearic ethanolamide Oleic ethanolamides Ethoxylated fatty alcohols Block polymers (pluronics) Sorbitol esters (TWEENS) Amine oxides Coconut and dodecyl dimethyl amine oxides β – aminoacid derivatives Aspargine derivatives Betains Alkyl imidazoline Amido betains MIRANOLTM COMMENTS Improves solubility of SLS Pearlescent thickener Hair conditioning agents Stable in wide range of pH. stabilizing emulsifying and opacifying properties Good rinsability. used in baby shampoos Foam booster and anti‐static agents AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS N‐alkyl aminoacids Foaming agents Compatible with both anionic and cationic surfactants High foaming properties. propylene glycol. alginates Cellulose derivatives – Hydroxy ethyl cellulose. tragacanth. etc. sarcosinates Viscosity modifiers : Electrolytes – NH4Cl. NaCl Natural gums – Gum Karaya. egg derivatives. Foam builders: Lauroyl monoethanolamide. herbal extracts. methyl cellulose Carboxy vinyl polymers – Carbopol 934 Others – PVP. isopropanol Phosphates – Non‐ionic solubilizers – polyethoxyated alcohols and esters. phosphate esters.ADDITIVES ¾ ¾ ¾ Conditioning agents: Lanolin. spermaceti. ¾ Sequestering agents : EDTA ¾ Opacifying agents : Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids. Ca and Zn salts of stearic acid. . Mg. ¾ Clarifying agents : Solubilizing alcohols – ethanol. mineral oil. ¾ Anti‐dandruff agents: The shampoos contain small amount of these actives. . which are in contact with the scalp for only a short time. fruity or floral fragnances. ¾ Preservatives : Methyl and propyl paraben. Ex: Selenium sulfide. salicylic acid. zinc pyrithone. formaldehyde (most effective). In order to be effective the active ingredient must work in the oil‐ water environment of the scalp and must be readily substantive to the scalp for continuing activity.ADDITIVES ¾ Perfumes : Herbal. 5% 7.s LIQUID SHAMPOO SLS NaCl (to desired viscosity) Water Perfume. color.5% 15% q. preservatives LOTION SHAMPOO 35% 2% 1% Upto 100% q. preservatives 40% 2‐4% Upto 100% q.s q.S TLS Glyceryl monostearate Magnesium stearate Water Color Perfume.s .FORMULATIONS POWDER SHAMPOO Henna powder Soap powder Sodium carbonate Potassium carbonate Borax Perfume 5% 50% 22. perfume Preservative 38% 7% Upto 100% q. preservative 15% 28% 7% 1% Upto 100% q. perfume.s JELLY SHAMPOOS Alkyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride TLS (40%) Coconut ditethanolamide HPMC Water Color.s TLS Coconut diethanolamide Water Propellent Color.s .FORMULATIONS CREAM SHAMPOO SLS Cetyl alcohol Water Color. perfume.S q. preservative AEROSOL SHAMPOO 60% 2% Upto 90% 10% q.. preservative q.S To 100% Color. perfume.1% .5% q.s TWO LAYER SHAMPOO SLS Cocamidopropylamine oxide Lauramine DEA Lactic acid (50%) Formaldehyde 27% 5% 1% 1% 0.S q.5%) Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) Polysorbate 20 PEG 600 Perfume Preservative Citric acid Color Water (deionised).S To pH 6 q.FORMULATIONS CONDITIONING SHAMPOOS Steryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride Ethylene glycol monostearate Cetyl alcohol Water 5.5% Upto 100% BABY SHAMPOO Magnesium lauryl sulfate (27. Aqua (INCI) 11% 5% 1% 3.5% 2% 2. 5% 5% .1% 0.s ANTI‐DANDRUFF SHAMPOO Selenium sulfide Bentonite 2.s SLS paste Water Color. preservative 35% upto 100 q. preservative 0.1% 55% upto 100 q.05% 0.FORMULATIONS ANTI‐DANDRUFF SHAMPOO Thymol Menthol Camphor TLS Water Color. perfume. perfume. 5% 1.5% 1.5% 1% 0. Upto 100% .FORMULATION HERBAL SHAMPOO Natural essential oil blend Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (Guar Gum) Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) extract Glycerin Hydrolysed wheat protein Salvia officinalis (Sage) leaf extract Salvia officinalis (Sage) Glyceryl oleate Polysorbate 20 Potassium sorbate Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera) extract Arctium minus (Burdock) root extract Disodium coco‐glucoside sulfosuccinate Preservatives Water 0.5% q.5% 5% 0.5% 0.5% 1% 2% 1% 2.5% 0.s. texture and set retention ¾ Irritation and toxicity ¾ Dandruff control 9 Microbiological assay 9 Eye irritancy test .Evaluation of Shampoos Performance characteristics 9 Foam and foam stability 9 Detergency and cleaning action ¾ Effect of water hardness ¾ Surface Tension and wetting ¾ Surfactant content and analysis Product characteristics 9Fragnance 9Colour 9Consistency 9Package 9 Rinsing 9 Conditioning action ¾ Softness ¾ Luster ¾ Lubricity ¾ Body. Barnett and Powers developed a latherometer to measure the effect of variables such as water hardness. type of soil and quantity of soil on foam speed. then after filter the hair dried and weighed. Fredell and Read titrated actual standard oiled heads of hair with additive increments of shampoo until a persistent lather end point appeared. volume and stability. Detergency and cleaning action: Cleansing power is evaluated by the method of Barnet and Powers 5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at 35°c in 200 cc of water containing of 1 gm of shampoo. • • • 2. • • • • Foam and foam stability: The Ross‐Miles foam column test is accepted. . and is considered proportional to the volume. The flask is shaken 50 times a minute for 4 minutes. The amount of soil is removed under these condition is calculated. 200 ml of surfactant solution is dropped into a glass column containing 50ml of the same solution.1. Then washed once again with sufficient amount of water. The height of the foam generated is measured immediately and again after a specified time interval. is floated on the surface of a solution. and the time required for it to sink is measured accurately. Wetting Action: • Canvas disk sinking test: A mount veron cotton duck # 6 canvas disk 1 inch in diameter. 5. Rinsing: • Skilled beauticians are employed to make comparisons on the performance of several shampoos. • No method has been published for measuring conditioning action. Conditioning Action: • Conditioning action is a difficult property to assess.3. 4. • The degree of conditioning given to hair is ultimately judged by shampoo user who is making the evaluation on the basis of past experience and present expectations. . This is because it is basically dependent on subjective appraisal. MAKING THE WELLS ON AGAR PLATES The wells are dig on agar plates with sterilised well digger aseptically. Incubate the plates at 37oC for 24 hrs to 48 hrs. PREPARATION OF MEDIA Soya bean casein digests medium. • Mix well. • This is immediately poured in plates (340 ml each) and allows to set. add to well aseptically. • Observe the effectiveness of sample on culture growing on the agar plate and we can see the effectiveness of sample in the form of zone of inhibition around each well containing different sample. • Take 100µml of each sample.6. Microbiological assay: PREPARATION OF PRE‐INOCULUM Take the loopful culture of staphylococcus aureus (ATCC6532) aseptically and transfer to sterilized and cooled 100 ml SCDM (broth). Incubate the broth at 37oC for 24 hrs. soya bean casein digest agar and nutrient agar. PREPARATION OF POUR PLATES Sterilized SCD agar (100 ml) is cooled to 40°C and mixed with 5 ml of 24 hrs old pre inoculated culture. . In the first of these groups eyes instilled with the substances are washed with 20 ml of lukewarm water two seconds after treatment and in the second group after instillation. The six remaining animals are divided into two equal groups. Since washing the eye may or may not alleviate symptoms of injury. 48 and 72 hr and again four and seven days after treatment. Evaluation of eye irritancy: • • • • • • The test calls for dropping 0.1 ml of liquid shampoo in the conjunctiva sac of one eye of the rabbit . In the case of the first three animals. Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a Brookefield viscometer 100 mL of the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the spindle is dipped in it for about 5 min and then the reading is taken. the treated eye remains unwashed. the other eye serving as control. Readings are then made at 24.7. Viscosity: • • . If the lesions have not cleared up in seven days the test material is considered as severe irritant. 8. M. John Wiley India.. Vol‐2. Sharma. Rajkumar.: COSMETICS ‐ Formulation.: POUCHER’S – Perfumes. Cumbria. Gershon. Paye.: COSMETICS– Science and Technology.O. J. 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