Sewing Techniques

megan nielsen design diary BLOG  SHOP  PATTERNS  ABOUT  COLLECTIONS  FAQs  TUTORIALS Tutorial: Six Seam Finishes (And When To Use Them) March 7th, 2013 Seam finishing is a very important part of the sewing process. It makes the inside of your garment or project look just as neat and clean and professional as the outside, and it prevents the fabric from fraying and creating a mess. There are many, many different finished you can choose from, but I am going to highlight some of the basics today and when you should use them. Keep reading after the jump! PINKED WHEN TO USE IT: Stable fabrics / fabrics that don’t fray easily. Something that may not be washed or worn a lot is best. It is the simplest of seam finishes, and requires no sewing.So if you can get away with just this, why not?! The zig zag edge helps in preventing the fabric from fraying. HOW: You’ll need a pair of pinking shears. Just simply cut close to the edge with your shears! (I actually usually cut out all of my pattern pieces using pinking shears. So all edges already have this finish and there are no worries about fraying anywhere). ZIG ZAG WHEN TO USE IT: Any type of fabric, really (except for sheers and really delicate fabrics – they may shred). HOW: Use the zig zag setting on your machine. Test it out on a piece os scrap fabric first – try a smaller stitch length for lighter fabrics, and a longer stitch for heavy ones. You can either zig zag both sides of the seam allowance and press the seam open (see smaller photo), or you can zig zag the two sides together, and press to one side. CLEAN FINISH WHEN TO USE IT: light to medium weight woven fabrics. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. HOW: This is a really simple finish. Nothing crazy here! 1. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. 2. For each side of seam allowance, turn under 1/4” or less and press. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance. Don’t sew to the garment). creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam might be visible. Sew 3/8″ away from folded edge. 3. . encasing your previous trimmed seam. sew 1/4” from the raw edge. Head on over to her post for a more detailed tutorial!** 1. trim seam allowance to 1/8″. With WRONG sides together. This is what it will look like from the inside…. HOW: **Megan recently did a detailed tutorial on french seams.FRENCH SEAM WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. A french seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance. And this is what it will look like from the outside. Press. Press again. 4. Turn your fabric so the right sides are now together. 2. So I’m going to keep this short and sweet. Press down. . and trim ONE side of seam allowance to 1/4″. Look at your jeans – I bet you they have flat felled seams! It is a good seam for these types of garments because it is sturdy and durable. so that it completely covers it. 4. sew 5/8″ from raw edge. I promise! 1. Fold this over top of the trimmed side.FLAT FELLED WHEN TO USE IT: In garments that see a lot of stress – like pants and woven shirts. Actually. 2. Press. With right sides together. depending on what kind of look you are going for! . Also – this one is seen from the outside of the garment! HOW: This isn’t hard. fold inward in half – so that the raw edge meets the seam. Press seam open. That’s it! Wasn’t that easy? This is what it will look like from the outside. you can use either side for the outside of your garment. Stitch close to the folded edge. With the other side. 3. Follow the instructions for your machine to thread it properly. and go!. but your addition of ‘when to use it’ is so helpful! Thanks! o Holly March 7.SERGED WHEN TO USE IT: Many. you can either serge both sides of your seam allowance and press open. 2013 at 6:06 pm . This one above happens to be a 3 thread finish. There are two types of overlock seams – 3 thread and 4 thread. many different fabrics and garments. Very versatile. or serge them together and press to the side. posted in: TIPS & TUTORIALS 31 Responses 1. Again. Ali March 7. HOW: You’ll need an overlock machine to do this. 2013 at 9:35 am This post is so useful! I’ve read about different seam finishes before. no problem! I hope you find it helpful :) 3. thanks a bunch! :) o Holly March 7. Dee Durrant March 7. Michelle March 7. J March 7. Thanks! :-) o Holly March 7. Juli! Glad I can help :) 4.Thanks Ali! I’m glad you find it helpful! 2. 2013 at 9:49 am Thank for this lovely resource! Holly o March 7. 2013 at 4:35 pm Holly – Great 1st post! Easy instruction and I love that the numbers match the photos – I found it so much easier to follow! . Adding it to my list of sewing tips bookmarks. 2013 at 6:11 pm Thanks hun! Glad I could help :) 5. 2013 at 6:08 pm Thank you. 2013 at 4:08 pm This will come in handy! A nice and clearly presented summary. Juli March 7. this is a really great resource! The photos AND step by step explanations are great. 2013 at 6:07 pm Aw. 2013 at 1:02 pm Yay. o Holly March 11. Silvia . 2013 at 8:05 am […] how awesome was Holly’s first post yesterday?! I know.Holly o March 7. Jessie March 7. but I will keep this in mind for next time! 7. except for sheer fabrics). and can model future posts and tutorials after it :) 6. 2013 at 6:15 pm Aw. Elle Croft March 9.MadameRenard March 8. I was just a little confused about “when to use it”. 2013 at 9:44 pm Hi there! Great post. 2013 at 11:55 am Thank you …. thank you! I’m glad you all like it and found it helpful. glad I could help :) 8. a great addition might also be “when not to use it” so I know when to avoid a finish with a particular garment or sensitive fabric. she rocks :) posted in: Studio […] 9. 2013 at 11:54 am Jessie – thanks for the feedback! I tried to do this a little bit (like the zig zag stitch is good for most instances. 2013 at 2:26 am Thank you for this post! Very useful!!! o Holly March 11. feedback helps! It’s good to know my layout and instructions work for you. studio peeks: shoot prep . 2013 at 11:35 am SO helpful! Thank you very much for this!! .keep them coming.megan nielsen design diary March 8. Great update. As a newbie around here. you can flatfell the inner side seams OR the outer side seams. 2013 at 6:36 pm Perhaps I should’ve been more clear. 2013 at 2:46 pm This was excellent! I’ve only recently started sewing and haven’t figured out the different seams yet.Holly o March 11. 2013 at 12:00 pm No problem! Glad I could help :) 10.megan nielsen design diary . This is a really great resource – I’m sure I’ll be back plenty of times in the future :) Thanks! 13. because the pants legs are a tube and won’t fit through the sewing machine for the entire pantleg length. Tutorial : How to sew an Invisible Zipper . 2013 at 11:45 pm Great info! However. 12. I tried it on wide pajama pants. Sure. You are right – it would not be possible to use it on both sides. and then a regular seam for the outside. 2013 at 12:05 pm Just getting started again after 38 year break & the info is invaluable. Thanks. Hope that helps!  Terri April 15. Courtney May 15. Does that make sense? Is there a way around this problem? Holly o April 15. and found that some people found a solution. dolsgirl May 6.a flat felled seam is usually used for the inner seam only. but you can’t do both. Terri April 11. Thank you for your reply. it worked. I am stumped as to how you use the flat-felled seam on pants. Love your blog! 11. 2013 at 10:43 pm I did more internet searching. but I don’t think it would work on narrow pants or pants that have stiff material. which is to scrunch up the pant leg and make a sort of well to do the final two flat-felled seams. and though tricky. The top layer of this top has a split down the front of it so that the bottom layer can show through. I kept it simple with pinking shears. Vicki July 7. 2014 at 3:56 am The pictures and the information on different types of seam finishes has made it so easy to do my project. Can you help me understand what to do? The pattern is called New Look 6114. Farah June 27. Betty June 15. I’m excited to see the result. 2014 at 1:01 pm Thanks Megan. Sew a row of basting stitches 5/8” from the raw edge on each side of your garment. Thanks. Victoria June 9. See other seam finishes here). 2013 at 11:34 am I am working on a childs two layered top. Vicki 16. 18. 2013 at 9:17 am Thank you for this very helpful tutorial. 19. squaring stitching at opening. this is very clear and helpful. Diana September 15. Thanks alot for the useful information. This is […] 14.May 29. 2013 at 4:35 am I remember reading this post when I was just starting sewing. The pattern says to narrow the hem which I understand. I’m a newbie to sewing. Evelyn January 3. and I will use the French seam you’ve suggested. 2013 at 8:01 am […] to your preference (as you can see. 2014 at 11:52 pm . 15. but now it seems so easy! Thank you :) 17. I couldn’t understand anything. I am just about to sew a blouse using lightweight fabric. but then it says to narrow front hem edges in same manner. To be honest.. i have no idea how anyone would acheive a flat felled finish on a 2 pieces pants pattern (i’m assumed you mean there is one pattern piece only?).. its really help me to do my sewing project 20. o Meg August 28. 2014 at 7:42 am I have a question similar to Terri’s above…I have a 2 piece pants pattern and the inseam calls for a flat felled finish…and I end up with the pant-leg-tunnel. that way you avoid Pant-leg-tunnel? So if I used a standard 4 piece pattern instead of the 2 pieces it would be simpler? Thanks in advance. does this mean BEFORE the outer side is closed up. you would sew the inseam with the flat felled finsh before sewing the outer seams :) i hope that helps!! Meg xoxo older post next post      . Mercedes August 18. If you were using a standard 2 pattern piece/4 piece pattern for pants then yes.this is really a useful information. Is this normal?? Do people actually do this? When you say that they are usually only used for the inner seam. 2014 at 5:00 pm Hi Mercedes! I totally understand how confusing that would be. thanks a lot for share this guideline. Megan Nielsen. All tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen.com/wpcontent/themes/mn/images/button-up.com/"><img src="http://blog.megannielsen.megannielsen. Search for: Button Up <center><a href="http://blog. unless otherwise noted.png"/></a></center> Categories  FROM THE WORKROOM  MADE & WORN  RANDOM BITS  TIPS & TUTORIALS Copyright All photos and contents on this site are copyrighted by the author. ©2015 megan nielsen design diary . The use of a French seam is not restricted to any particular clothing style or type. professional look to the inside of the garment. where it is impractical (such as a set-in sleeve) because of its complexity. Pins 4. using a French seam on curves (such as placing a sleeve into an armhole) should be avoided. finished. however. French Seam Tutorial ©1999-2009 RBR. Iron 3. Scissors or Pinking Shears 5. There are instances. Generally speaking. French seams are not suitable for bulky fabrics. Inc. Until the seamstress (or tailor) is proficient with this procedure. Sewing Machine 2. How to Make a French Seam What You Will Need 1. Step-by-step Instructions About French Seams A French seam is often used when the fabric is too delicate to overcast the seam allowance to prevent raveling. The construction of a French seam provides a clean. such as concealing pinked edges.How to Make French Seams Easy-to-follow. Thread Procedure . they are not required.Step 1 Make note of the of the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of the fabric you are using. Step 3 Stitch a 1/4" seam allowance along the entire length of the edge pinned in Step 2. Note: contrasting thread shown in photo used for clarity only. Step 6 Fold material along newly created seam with wrong sides out. Although you The cut edges will be seam. DO NOT press seam open! Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. pressing both edges flat and to one common side. pinning entire length With the right sides facing out. pin material of edge where the French seam will be. Step 7 Press entire length of seam flat at fold on wrong side. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. The nature of a French seam's construction requires that you be aware of the difference during construction so that they are properly oriented in each step. Remove pins after the seam allowance has been sewn. protected (and hidden) by the completed French Step 5 Unfold with the right sides up. Step 8 . Step 4 1/8" of stitches. Press entire length of trimmed seam allowance. Step 2 together. Cut seam allowance (sewn in Step 3) to within may use pinking shears. flat. Step 9 Stitch a 3/8" seam allowance along the entire length of the edge pinned in Step 8. Note: contrasting thread shown in photo used for clarity only. On the wrong side. Inc. flat-feld. You're done! French Seam Tutorial ©1999-2009 RBR. Step-by-step Instructions About Flat Felled Seams (Other names: felled. Note that the right side of the seam is neat and flat. Press entire length of seam flat to one side. Step 10 Unfold with the wrong sides up. pin folded material together. flat feel. flat-felled.With wrong sides out. How to Make Flat Felled Seams Easy-to-follow. Be sure to use a not damage the fabric. Remove pins after the seam allowance has been sewn. flat felt) . setting on your iron that will Step 11 Give yourself a pat on the back. flat-felt. pinning entire length of pressed seam created in Step 7. flat-fell. the cut (or pinked) edges of the seam created in step 4 are now concealed. flat feld. pin material together. They are commonly found on skirts. How to Make a Flat Felled Seam What You Will Need 1. Flat felled seams also conceal the raw edges of the seam allowance.Flat felled seams can be found on almost all jeans. flat felled seams provide three stitch lines. pinning entire length of edge where the flat felled seam will be. reducing the likelihood of fraying. Iron 3. two of which secure multiple layers of fabric. Pins 4. . It will help you orient yourself as you follow the steps. Until the seamstress (or tailor) is proficient with the procedure. casual slacks as well as shirts and blouses. Limitations are often determined by the capacity of the sewing machine. Sewing Machine 2. Thread Procedure Step 1 Make note of the of the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of the fabric. using a flat felled seam on curves (such as placing a sleeve into an armhole) should be avoided. flat felled seams are often used when a sporty look is desired. and backpacks. In addition to clothing. Scissors or Pinking Shears 5. flat felled seams are often found on accessories such as tote bags as well as many outdoor fabric items including tents. Tough and durable. Today. Although flat felled seams are often used with heavy-weight fabric (such as denim) because of the layering involved. they may not be suitable for extremely heavy or bulky fabrics. Step 2 With the wrong sides facing out. back-tacking at the beginning and end of the seam. Step 4 Cut one side of seam allowance (sewn in Step 3) to within 1/4" of the stitches. they are not required. thoroughly press seam to ensure it is flat. press seam closed to short side of seam allowance. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. Although you may use pinking shears.Step 3 Stitch a 5/8" seam allowance (or the amount specified in your pattern) along the entire length of the edge pinned in Step 2. Remove pins after the seam allowance has been sewn. Step 5 On the wrong side of the fabric. Step 6 On right side of fabric. The cut edges will be protected (and hidden) by the completed flat felled seam. . Use a pressing cloth to help prevent damage to fabric. . folding it over the top of the narrower (trimmed) side... .Step 7 (A) Grasp the wider (un-trimmed) side of the seam allowance... (C) Grasp the folded. (B) . concealed seam and continue folding in the same direction. concealing the narrower side as shown below..continue folding until the edge of the wider side meets the seam's stitching line. back-tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.. (B) One of the two finished top stitch lines can now be seen on the right side of the fabric. Step 8 Pin entire length of flattened fold in place.until the folded seam lies flat against the opposite side and is ready for pinning. Remove pins as they reach the presser foot.. Step 10 .(D) . Step 9 (A) Stitch Line (a) .Stitch 1/8" in from folded edge along the entire length of the flattened fold pinned in Step 8. Stitch Line (a) is now complete. Stitch 1/8" in from and parallel to the original seam along entire length of flattened fold. Both finished top stitch lines can now bee seen on the right side of the fabric (below).(A) Stitch Line (b) . You're done! . The raw edges are now completely concealed within the flat felled seam. Note here that three stitch lines show on the wrong side and only two show on the right side. back-tacking at the beginning and end of the seam. (B) Stitch line (b) next to original seam is now complete. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. Step 11 Press the completed flat felled seam on the right side of the fabric. more professional. Pins 4. Iron 3. This “How To” combines those steps and produces a cleaner. How to Finish & Conceal the Raw Edge of a Facing Quicker. they can be adapted to nonfusible. easier method using fusible interfacing What You Will Need 1.Fusible Interfacing . Step-by-step Instructions Quicker. then “finish” the raw edges. Easier Method Using Fusible Interfacing Most patterns instruct you to apply interfacing to the corresponding fabric facing pieces. Sewing Machine 2.Finish a Facing’s Raw Edge Easy-to-follow. Although these instructions have been written for use with fusible interfacing. See Step 8 of the instructions. Thread Procedure Step 1 . appearance. Step 2 Pin together outer un-notched edges of interfacing and facing. along entire length of seam allowance. approximately every 1/2". Step 5 .After having cut facing and interfacing. Keep clipping short. place non-stick side of interfacing against right side of facing. Step 3 Stitch a 1/4" seam allowance along entire outer un-notched edge. clip through both facing and interfacing. back-tacking at the beginning and end of the seam. Step 4 With pins removed. Do not cut the stitching. (B) New seam is close to and parallel with existing seam and through the seam allowance. Stitch entire length. . Step 7 Fuse interfacing to facing. covering the seam allowance. re-trimming any uneven open edges.(A) With the facing right side up and seam allowance folded to the interfacing side (see underside view below) stitch close to existing seam. (Not Shown) Smooth-out 2-piece assembly with hands. Raw edge of seam allowance is hidden and edge of 2-piece assembly is finished. (Shown from Underside) Step 6 Turn sticky side of interfacing against wrong side of facing. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. Fold on existing seam. Step 8 (Non-fusible Interfacing Only) Baste the remaining open edges together rather than fusing them as shown above. being sure to sew through both seam allowance and interfacing. When used as a trim. Sewing Machine 2. Thread Procedure Step 1 . to Conceal a Fabric Edge* Bias tape tape and ribbon are used to bind and enclose straight or curved fabric edges. when compared to traditional application techniques. Pins 4. some of the guesswork and the number of steps are reduced. What You Will Need 1. Iron 3. How to Bind and Enclose a Fabric Edge Appling wide single fold bias tape or ribbon at least 7/8" wide. or Ribbon. * Intended for wide single fold bias tape and ribbon at least 7/8" wide. they also provide a decorative color accent to clothing and crafts. Step-by-step Instructions How to Use or Apply Bias Tape.How to Use or Apply Bias Tape or Ribbon Easy-to-follow. Also. This “How To” is intended to help overcome the tendency of not catching the underside of single fold bias tape or ribbon* with the stitches. this tutorial applies the bias tape starting at the corner. stitch entire length of bias tape. pressing on the outside. is generally started at a midpoint. Note: contrasting thread shown in photo used for clarity only. Stitch in line with pins. or ribbon. or ribbon. unless you are uncomfortable with your judgment. removing pins as they reach the presser foot. or ribbon. Measuring or marking is unnecessary. the bias tape. or ribbon. but will not be detectable to the eye when completed. to the fabric. Press the entire length needed. in half. Place pins close to and parallel with the edge of the bias tape. allowing approximately 1/16" of overhang on one side. Note: For the purpose of clarity. The short side of the bias tape. face one another. Step 4 With front side up. or ribbon. . Step 3 The extra 1/16" helps assure the pins will catch the back side of the bias tape. or ribbon. In practice. so that the inside of the bias tape. being sure to pin through all layers. or ribbon.Press the bias tape. or ribbon. should face up with the front of the fabric. Step 2 Pin the entire length of bias tape. A rolled hem. Iron 3.Step 5 When completed (as with the pinning in Step 2) the extra 1/16" helps assure the stitching will catch the back side of the bias tape. Pins 5. You're done! ow to Make Rolled Hems & Machine Stitched Hems Easy-to-follow. Sewing Machine 2. or ribbon. Step-by-step Instructions About Rolled Hems and Machine Stitched Hems Rolled hems (also called machine stitched hems) are often used in casual or sportswear. How to Make Rolled Hems & Machine Stitched Hems What You Will Need 1. compared to a hand-stitched hem. Scissors or Pinking Shears . is easier for the novice to create and will result in a more professional look. They may also be used for some styles of floor length dresses. Ruler 4. Step 4 Cutting on the line created in step 3. on the entire hem. checking hem to insure its evenness and for a consistent distance from floor.6. (Not Shown) Hold garment to self and view in a full length mirror. Step 3 Measure 5/8" up from the crease created in step 2. Mark with tailor's chalk around entire hem. Use pinking shears if the fabric is subject to raveling. spacing pins close to and parallel with edge. Step 2 Press entire hem to form a crease. . Thread 7. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. Tailor's Chalk Procedure Step 1 Pin up desired hem length. remove excess material with scissors. Press on the inside (wrong side) of the garment. Pin entire hem.. Step 6 Fold again (as in Step 5) concealing the cut edge and pin in place. Step 7 Stitch entire hem close to fold. . Remove pins as they reach the presser foot. ..Step 5 Grasping the cut edge. Note: contrasting thread shown in photo used for clarity only. spacing pins very close to one another and parallel with edge.fold to meet the crease created in step 2... Some fabrics resist folding and will require additional pins. Sewing Tips for Professional-looking & Consistent Results The Basics You Will Need 1. Here’s how. You're done! Rolled (Machine Stitched) H Sewing Tips for Better and More Consistent Results Easy-to-follow. Sewing Machine .. Building on good habits and breaking bad habits are the key to better looking clothes that you made yourself. The following tips and suggestions are intended to help even the beginner overcome the "Homemade" look. Step-by-step Instructions Avoid the “Homemade Look” when Sewing or Altering Clothes Homemade clothing does not have to look homemade.. yet so often. Press on the inside (wrong side) of the garment.Step 8 Press entire newly stitched hem. Work Area 2. talented amateurs are disappointed with their results. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric. Chair . Attention to Detail. with rounded edges. backrest position. The surface should be high enough to not confine your thighs. or padded for comfort. Work Area (adapted from: www.gov) Size .The work surface should be approximately elbow height. Fabric & Notions 8. The back rest should be padded.Your work surface should be as large as the work area can reasonably accommodate.  The chair itself should have adjustments for: 1. other accessories. and be adjusted to support the lower back. Standing .The work surface should be at elbow height. Sewing Machine Needles 4. It should be sturdy enough to support: your machine. Sitting .osha. The wrists should be kept straight. seat tilt.Your chair plays a critical role in establishing the proper sitting work height.3. the project. without easily moving. permitting the wrists to be kept straight. Hand Tools & Accessories 6. Ironing Surface & Pressing 5. and the weight of you leaning against it. 2. Iron. with sufficient room underneath to operate the sewing machine's pedal. Pattern 7. height. Patience 1. . and 3. The edges of the work surface should be rounded. not a piece of furniture! The work surface on most built-in machines is simply too small. Buy the best machine you can afford for your current needs. Your work area should permit concentration on the task at hand. Once you decide. then shop price. When sitting. 2. Don't forget the Internet! 1. Try-out the floor models. Size matters. the chair should be placed at a distance from the work so that you can keep your elbows at your sides (not away from the body). The seat should be padded and gently sloped-down in the front. Lighting . having a work area with natural. to prevent pressure in the back of your legs. for recommendations. The seat should be wide enough to allow your weight to be evenly supported and distributed. Sewing Machine Buying One . General. You are buying a machine. in combination with a work table (discussed above) makes the best use of both. Keep distractions to a minimum. Your feet should rest flat on the floor. No wheels. Ask family.(adapted from: www. north light available (to check color) is a real plus. Quality (not quantity) should guide your purchase decision. but others around you. The potential for injury is not only to you.gov) Use adjustable task lighting to make it easier to see project. The back of your knees should be slightly higher than the seat of the chair. overhead lighting should be even to eliminate shadows and glare.osha. who sew. Safety . north light alone is usually not sufficient. friends and neighbors. Do not be tempted to buy features (including all those fancy stitches) that you will probably never use. Although natural. . A portable machine. 2.A sewing machine can be a long-term investment.Never forget you are working with equipment and tools that can be dangerous. Artificial light affects color. or wheels that lock. Even if you don't buy the manufacturer's brand. Use the correct one! 3. A wellmaintained. The needle packages are labeled for their intended purpose. qualified service center. Iron an Ironing Surface & Pressing To get professional-looking results you will need an iron and ironing surface. Don't attempt self-repair beyond what your manual suggests. A separate ironing board is not . quality sewing machine can last decades. purchase replacements that are specifically made for your machine model. 2. on hand. If your machine begins to miss stitches. or make unusual noises. of the needles used most often. Have the machine checked and serviced by an authorized. Changing one in the middle of a project is bad enough. Ironing is required throughout the garment-making process.Maintenance . Machine Specific . The machine's manual will specify how often routine service should be performed. Sewing Machine Needles The are three basic considerations when buying sewing machine needles: 1. not just at the end.Not all needles work best for all fabric or tasks. Needles have a tendency to break at the worst times. Having to make a trip to the store to buy them first is a real pain! 4. 3.Have an extra pack. Fabric & Task Specific . Most machine settings are pre-set at the factory.A sewing machine (like your car) requires regular maintenance to keep it working correctly. Planning Ahead . something may be wrong with it. Be aware of the fabric’s reaction to ironing.Next to your sewing machine. 1. checking them regularly for mysterious "gooey-stuff" that can ruin your fabric and your entire day. It must be flexible enough to measure around curves. the tape measure is your most used tool. Here's the short list of what you need (and be glad you have) and some suggestions to make them work for you. The iron should have both steam and dry settings. Fabric bolts are usually labeled with care instructions. press all seams open and flat on the inside. The ironing surface should be padded and heat resistant. During Assembly. Care . 2. Pressing 1. 5. unless directed otherwise by the pattern instructions.mandatory. After assembly. but they do use hand tools regularly. yet strong enough to resist stretching. 1. . pressing on the inside. always press the entire garment. A sleeve board is extremely helpful and worth the investment.Regardless of the brand or type you choose keep both the iron and ironing surface clean. which may reference ironing. Before You Begin . Soft Cloth or Vinyl Tape Measure . Hand Tools & Other Accessories The seamstress or tailor may not wear a tool belt. and final fitting and all adjustments. 2. Using de-mineralized (distilled) water will extend the life of your iron and reduce the risk of staining your fabrics. Always test press a scrap piece of material and adjust the settings accordingly before pressing your garment. Regular and Pinking .The perfect tool for transferring a repetitive measurement. 4. The Pattern .These specialty bulbs tend to burn-out at the worst times.These are designed to be used on fabric. they are much less likely to poke you! The best choice of pin often depends on where you are pinning. Whatever you buy. Replace as needed. Extra Bulb for Sewing Machine . Also. be sure it is not permanent! 6.Different tasks require different scissors. 6" Ruler with Slide Guide . 2. Which ones to use is often determined by the fabric's tendency to fray and whether (or not) the edge being cut will be further finished. safety pins won't fall out when the garment is removed. Tailor's Chalk or Fabric Marking Pencils . Always have an extra one in your supply drawer.Straight pins are used throughout the garment-making process to keep elements aligned. 6. Straight Pins & Safety Pins . Just set the guide at the correct dimension. then go! 3. Having both a light and dark color for contrasting fabric is helpful and much easier on your eyes. You may be surprised how much constant use can stretch them to the point of inaccuracy. Scissors. Although straight pins can also be used during the trial fitting process.Periodically check your tape measure against a metal ruler or yardstick. 5. . Be honest with yourself. or unusual trim they depict unless they are the same as what you intend to use. may not only look bad. you are not limited to what the fabric store is offering. out-of-print and specialty patterns. Don‘t select patterns because of the fabric color. 2. Visualize your version of the finished garment. 3. Browse the Pattern category (on this Website) under “Other Resources” to get an idea. because it is inappropriate. shape and characteristics. body type.Selection . Even new patterns are occasionally mixed. patterns will occasionally contain errors.Remember. selecting the photographically depicted pattern can result in fewer disappointments and surprises. style or accessories unless they are similar to yours. If you have a choice. 4. 3. The Internet is a wonderful source for vintage. Select a pattern that compliments you. Ask yourself: 'Is this design appropriate?" A great-looking outfit worn in the wrong setting. Be sure the numbers on the pattern pieces and instructions match the envelope’s pattern number. 1. Don't be influenced by the model’s hair color. it may make you feel uncomfortable.This step cannot be stressed enough! 1. disposition. Reading & Understanding . confusing and/or missing information or instructions. 2. Account for all the pattern pieces and instructions before proceeding. Although rare. utilizing your body type. skin and hair color. Consider factors such as: age. For this reason alone it is vital you thoroughly read-through the pattern and understand it before proceeding. Be aware the patterns depicting the finished garment with a fashion illustration (drawing) are less true-to-life than a photograph. We can't all be supermodels. Checking. especially if the pattern is used or borrowed. as well as the fabric you will be using. Fabric. 2. Press all of the pattern pieces with an iron. Adjust the pattern pieces to match your measurements. 4. Confirm all adjustment measurements from your notes and account for all the pattern adjustments and their adjacent pattern pieces.Preparation 1. Folds and wrinkles in the pattern paper will affect accurate layout.Measured at the nipple line o Waist . Keep them flat until you are finished with them. on the side. measure wearing the shoes that will be worn with the finished garment.Measured down the spine o Length (waist to desired finished distance from floor) .Measured at the broadest (largest) point o Length (neck to waist) . Measure the pattern pieces.Measured down the spine* o Inseam . Notions & Planning Ahead . Heel height affects the measurement. 3.Measured seated.Measured at the narrowest point o Hips . 7. Rule of thumb: o Pattern measurement circumferences should measure approximately 2" greater than the corresponding body measurement. from seat to waist Our measurement worksheet shows you how to take and record the above measurements for dressmaking and the alteration of women’s clothing.Measured from the crotch to desired finished distance from floor* o Crotch Depth . Compare the pattern‘s measurements to your own and make a list of all the differences. o Whenever possible. o If in doubt. Critical measurements include o Bust (chest) . adjust the pattern piece larger. When stitches are complete (with scissors laying flat against the fabric) carefully cut-off all loose threads flush with the fabric. Consider this a shopping list. A color match is simply not enough. Back-tacking is a process of running the machine stitch in the reverse direction.Before starting. All newer threads are labeled accordingly. you will be glad you did. Planning Ahead .Patterns also specify the notions required.Most commercial patterns suggest suitable fabric types and styles. Notions . 3. Loose Threads . 2.Like needles. Attention to Detail & Patience Sewing 1. It is best to have everything at hand before you begin the project itself. Fabric. fill an extra bobbin each with the threads you will be using. Experiment leads to discovery. You will need everything. As your skills develop and confidence increases consider them as suggestions only. Trial Fitting (Before Completion) . 2. Back-tack all stitch lines at their start and finish points to help prevent seams from opening. The novice should pay close attention to these. When the bobbin runs-out in the middle of a long seam. 8. so there is no excuse for using the wrong one. A length of 1/8” to 1/4” is usually sufficient. If you have back-tacked your stitches (above) the seams will not open. unless you have pre-planned a modification or change.1. there are different threads for different fabrics and tasks. Be careful not to nick or cut the fabric itself. so go ahead and try something different. Thread . keep distractions to a minimum. improved concentration and ultimately better results. Lined Garments ..1.Whether you are sewing out of necessity or desire (or both) don’t rush your work. any adjustments made to the outer garment must also be made to the lining. Make note of any adjustments that are required..In general. try it on again before adding additional pieces. 3. try-on the garment. the better you will become. Your projects will look more professional and you can take pride in saying: "I made this!" . If adjustments are made to the basic garment assembly. Have Fun .Sewing is an art almost anyone can master. For your safety. Adjust the garment and any pattern pieces not yet assembled. Critical step! With the garment’s basic pieces assembled. With improvement comes greater satisfaction with your results. The more you sew. Time Management . Start now building good habits and avoiding (or breaking) bad ones. DO NOT wait until the garment is complete to try it on! 2. It will show in your finished garment. One More Time.