Pan Cyan

March 27, 2018 | Author: Pagol Sagol | Category: Nature


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I've been working on a recipe to simplify growingPan cyans. They can be difficult at times, with this method you can grow them in 5 easy steps. This recipe was in- tended for P. cyanescens, but can also be used for cubensis. 1-Measure and prepare your substrate 2-Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook 3-Innoculate with spores, liquid culture , agar wedge or slurry 4-Apply casing layer 5-Fruit your jars I've been using plastic PP5 containers containers which work great. I can fit 9 into the PC at once, and this recipe will make 9 containers. Each lid has a 1/2 hole drilled in the top with a tyvek patch. I use a hot glue gun to apply the filter patch. Here's a pic of the lid and container. 1- Measure and prepare your substrate • Shred 10 cups of horse manure very finely and soak in water overnite. I like to add a half cup of bleach and hydrated lime to the water. The next day pour thru a collander and squeeze the manure out by hand. Set the manure aside, and remember it will not be pasteurized. • Add 10 cups of vermiculite to a large bowl and stir in 2 cups of brown rice flour. Moisten the vermiculite and brown rice flour to field capac- ity using regular or distilled water. • Combine the BRF/verm with the horse manure and mix it up really well. You want to evenly distribute the brown rice flour. 2- Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook Gently pack down the substrate so there's no big air spaces. As usual, add a nice layer of dry ver- miculite on top. Seal the lids and cover with alu- minum foil. Sterilize in the Pressure Cooker for 1 hour. 3- Innoculate with spores, liquid culture , agar wedge or slurry If you only have spores, you can also use this sub- strate recipe. Starting with spores will add about 1 week to the colonization time. My agar method goes as follows, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto a colonized agar plate. Using the needle tip, mix up the Mycelium and water and draw the slurry back into the syringe. No need to dig into the agar layer, just scrape the Mycelium off the surface of the agar . inoculate the containers with 6 cc of Mycelium water. They'll be colonized within 15 days and ready to fruit. 4-Apply casing layer I like to use 50/50 cactus mix and vermiculite . Be- fore mixing in the vermiculite , add hydrated lime and gypsum to the cactus mix, this will help pH balance the casing layer. This casing mix works great for Pans, it has good aeration and is fairly contam resistant. The cactus mix contains forest humus, sphaghnum peat moss, earthworm cast- ings , and sand. I pasteurize the casing mix for 1 hour. After it cools, apply the casing layer 1/4 - 1/ 2 inch deep. Hydrate the casing layer really well and cover the jars with foil for a few days. Usually 2-3 days is sufficient, this gives the the Mycelium a chance to recover. Make sure to poke a few holes in the foil to allow air exchange and prevent cob- web mold. 5- Fruit your jars Finally! The fun part. Remove the foil from the jars and place them into the fruiting chamber. Only mist the casing if it's dry. Misting the Mycelium can delay pinset, and misting pins can cause Aborts . Pans will normally start Pinning 7-10 days after casing . Just remember to keep the temps warm, the air fresh, and the humidity high. That's it for Waylit's Pan cyan Tek. Good Luck ~Waylitjim Here's some Pan Cambos fruiting in containers: Here's Goliath showing off it's heavy spore load Here's an Isolate of Goliath that's being tested out. The 3 factors when choosing an Isolate were: Pinset, Size, and Quickness. These are one day away from harvest. And the final shots before decapitation I remove the lid and use 3 or 4 inoculation points, with 6 cc's of LC. The jars are fully colonized in 2 weeks time, and ready for phase II. If you plan on using spores, I recommend adding a bit more BRF to the formula. I believe Golly is trying equal parts manure, verm and BRF. Quote: Originally Posted by Old_Recordings Very cool and informative grow log. What's the humidity and air exchange gotta be kept at for the cyans to grow at a steady rate? Pans like it a bit warmer then cubs: incubation & spawn run - 79-84°F Cropping - 75-80° F with relative humidity @ 85- 92% These were kept in a greenhouse which stayed warm and humid with lots of fresh air. A humidifier was set to run every other hour for one hour. Air exchange was provided with an air pump and tubing which directs fresh air to the different shelves of the greenhouse. Optimal air exchange is twice an hour, although I like continuous fresh air. Quote: Originally Posted by BennyBlanco were do u get the containers pp5 Look for any polypropylene containers that have the (PP5) stamp. They usually have the rating in a triangle on the bottom. The heat mat is made by Hydrofarm, they make the best (safest) heat mats on the market. The thermostat has a temperature control range of 68-95 deg F. Smaller mats are available, but mine is (48 in. X 20 in.) It's placed on the bot- tom shelf of the greenhouse, with nothing sitting directly on top of it. It's recommended to use a thermostat, but if you don't, make sure you get a quality heat mat...otherwise it could be a fire hazard. The Hydrofarm mats are made really well, meaning they don't overheat, so you don't really need the thermostat. The process of strain isolation is the same with all species, whether it's cubensis or cyanescens, you'll need to find a supe- rior substrain . It's best to start with just one drop of spore solution on agar and then seperate the strongest growth to new dishes untill you're down to only one substrain per dish, then you can fruit each substrain . This proc- ess can take a while, but in the end, you end up with a master culture which can be kept for years. RR did a nice writeup on this a while back, here's the link. http://mycotopia.net/discus/messages...tml?10672 30771 Sometimes it makes good sense to go multispore, clone your ideal specimen, and grow it till it won't grow no more... that could be years. Quote: Originally Posted by 711 What is the potency of Pan cyan compared to cu- bies. Weaker/Stronger? Pan cyans, at the very least are 3 times stronger than cubensis. Some say 5 to 6X as strong. Cu- bensis is one of the largest Psilocybes out there, but they're definitely not the strongest. This is one reason exotics are so precious in the myco com- munity. They're very potent! As an alternative Pan cyan substrate , try steriliz- ing a mixture of manure, vermiculite , Perlite and ryegrass seed. inoculate , and let the jars colonize completely. Fruit from the container or lay this mix out in a small tray and case with a thin layer. Allow this to recover for 48 hours. The vermiculite has good water retention, Perlite holds some but adds good fluff, and the ryegrass seed does both. As long as you add some grain or seed to the manure mix, you can inoculate with spores but it's never a good idea to pasteurize compost intended for spores, always sterilize first. I know the casing mix I use has nutes in it, mostly from the wormcastings, and cottonseed meal. Overlay is not a problem with Pans, so encouraging the Mycelium to colonize the casing layer has been helpful in my experience. The Pan Viets below are fruiting from the same substrate recipe outlined above. Once the con- tainers were colonized, they were dumped into a shallow tray, cased and fruited. This tray is the re- sult of cloning . For those wondering how to in- crease yields when working with cyans, cloning is indeed the most efficient method. Tissue was re- moved from the inside of a large stem, transferred to agar , and injected into containers. ~WLJ Quote: Originally Posted by Fungusaurus Amazing flush man! What are these containers you speak of? Do you crumble the colonized sub.? They're the ones I use in my Pan cyan Tek. Just standard PP5 containers, with a hole in the lid for air exchange. These hold the final fruiting sub- strate , which is pressure cooked for 1 hour. Once they're fully colonized, they are crumbled into trays for fruiting . The tray above has 3 containers in it. Quote: Originally Posted by Invitro Was your clone material taken from a single shroom or from a cluster . The clone was taken from a single fruit, which was part of a cluster. The stem was twisted to expose the sterile flesh inside. Using a scalpel, a small piece of tissue was extracted and placed on a dish of MEA. These went a little long, notice the heavy spore deposit on the caps. This is a Pan Viet clone . Indoor Outdoor Mycology brings out the best in what Mother Na- ture provides for us. Thanks to all the Topiates for the love and support along the way. I encourage you all to experiment with Pan cyans and other exotics. There's always more to learn after cubensis, and exotics will bring back that great feeling of joy and satisfaction you had after your first grow. Love, WLJ Hey Golly, yes the clone came from the first flush . With cyans I usually only go for one flush . A 2nd is always possible, but I find under optimal condi- tions, cyans will give a heavy 1st flush liek the tray above. After the 1st, my trays seem to lack vigor and the fruits are sparse in comparison. Quote: Originally Posted by red_lenses Was this clone taken from an Isolated well fruit- ing substrain , or could similar results come from a tray with only a couple fruits. You don't have to clone from a proven substrain . A large fruit worthy of cloning is an excellent sub- strain . By cloning you're bypassing the process of creating isolates. If you go multispore and only get five mushrooms, just clone the biggest one. Your future trays should perform better then multispore , and the fruits will be very similar to the original cloned material. Quote: Originally Posted by red_lenses Do you think cased rye (goliath) would fruit? or would it be better to spawn to a few layers of composted h-poo? Your chances of getting fruits are much better with a manure based substrate . Try to prepare some jars following my Pan cyan tek, it's one of the easi- est methods for success. One of the benefits is you can shoot spores directly into a manure based sub- strate , which is also your final fruiting substrate. MEA = Malt Extract Agar http://www.sporeworks.com/xcart/cata...p-1-c-25 3.html Attached Thumbnails
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