Table of ContentsTable of Contents..........................................................................................................................1 1.Introduction................................................................................................................................4 1.1. History................................................................................................................................4 1.2. Corporate Profile................................................................................................................5 1.3. Manufacturing Facilities - Fabric........................................................................................5 1.4. Departments ......................................................................................................................6 1.4.1.Unit II details ..............................................................................................................6 Plant is having following departments: -................................................................................6 1.4.2.Plant Layout of Morarjee Textiles Ltd...........................................................................6 .4.3. Organization chart.........................................................................................................7 2. Departments Studied:...............................................................................................................8 3. Design Studio............................................................................................................................9 3.1. Design studio division........................................................................................................9 3.2. Design Studio Barriers ....................................................................................................13 4. Pretreatment Processing .......................................................................................................14 4.1. Processing unit.................................................................................................................14 4.2. Mercerization....................................................................................................................15 4.2.1. Process Flow: -..........................................................................................................16 4.3. Scouring ..........................................................................................................................17 4.4. Bleaching..........................................................................................................................17 4.4.1. Recipe for bleaching bath.........................................................................................18 1 4.4.2. Precautions................................................................................................................18 4.4.3. Problems....................................................................................................................19 5. Dyeing.....................................................................................................................................19 5.1. Dyeing Process Flow.......................................................................................................20 5.1. Dyeing Methods and Procedure......................................................................................21 5.2. Developing solutions........................................................................................................21 5.4. Types of dyeing................................................................................................................24 5.5. After treatment..................................................................................................................24 5.5.1. Recipes and conditions.............................................................................................25 5.6. Stenter.............................................................................................................................26 5.7. Sanforising.......................................................................................................................27 6.1. Quality Objective:-............................................................................................................28 6.3. Printing department process flow ....................................................................................29 6.8. Screen Printing.................................................................................................................32 6.9. Color Preparation ingredients..........................................................................................32 6.10. Process flow for Reactive Printing.................................................................................33 6.10.2. Reactive color Paste Preparation............................................................................34 6.11. Process flow for Pigment Printing .................................................................................34 6.11.1. Pigment paste preparation .....................................................................................35 6.12. Process flow of Pigment Discharging Printing ..............................................................35 6.12.1. Ingredients of Pigment Discharge Printing Paste ......................................................36 2 6.12.2. Pigment discharge paste ........................................................................................36 6.13. List of machine, equipments and their specifications ...................................................37 6.14. Texfab Loop Ager ..........................................................................................................38 6.15. After treatment................................................................................................................38 6.17. Texfab Soaper................................................................................................................39 6.18. Texfab Soaper specifications and activities...................................................................39 7. Quality assurance...................................................................................................................41 7.1. Physical testing................................................................................................................41 7.1.3. Check points..............................................................................................................43 7.1.4. Seam slippage testing ..................................................................................................44 7.2. Chemical testing...............................................................................................................45 7.2.1. DESCRIPTION OF SOME TEST..............................................................................46 7.2.2. Calculations...............................................................................................................47 Conclusion..................................................................................................................................48 3 1.Introduction Morarjee is a name synonymous with fashion. With over a hundred years of experience and modern integrated manufacturing facilities, Morarjee makes cutting edge fashion a reality. It has technical collaboration with Swiss and Japanese companies that sets it’s apart in the industry.Morarjee is part of the Ashok Piramal Group, a diversified and leading business group in India. 1.1. History The Morarjee Gokaldas Spinning & Weaving Co. Ltd. is the oldest textile company in India, established as early as 1871. It is among the first five companies to be listed on the Indian stock exchanges. In 1935, the mill was acquired by Piramal Chaturbhuj, heralding a new era of growth and prosperity. Since inception, quality and service were the hallmark of the company. Riding on these factors, the company has survived the ups and downs in the textile sector. In the early 90’s the biggest challenge came from World War I. Not only did the mill survive, it came out much stronger. In 1940, the mill joined the Swadeshi movement and set up a Khaki department. It won special acclaim from Mahatma Gandhi for this. In 1942 – the Viceroy awarded a gold medal to the company for the khaki drill. The 1950’s was the period of unparalleled growth and expansion. The dye house was modernized with the installation of a continuous open width boiling & bleaching plant, a modern impregnating unit & a steaming J. Box. This was to improve the fastness of mineral khaki for which Morarjee Mills have been known for. Next on the cards was acquisition. Morarjee took over the Sayaji Mills located in Mumbai in 1981 and transformed it from an obsolete loss making unit to a highly profitable modern textile mill. Continuous up -of technology and research and development of products has transformed 4 5 . Dunhill. The company today is focusing on premium and high value niche product segment and has two divisions . Morarjee counts most of the popular international and domestic brands as it clients.2. Morarjee has a 49% stake in Just Textiles Ltd. Morarjee believes in investing in product development and technology up-gradation. To cater to the changing demand and requirements of the fashion industry. poplin and other high-end products.In the last decades. Mumbai. Integra Apparels and Textiles Ltd specializes in woven tops. which is currently engaged in processing various fabrics installed at its factory in Ambernath. Most of the leading global and domestic players are its clients today 1. across 20 coutries. Paul Smith and Zodiac are some of its customers. 1. to keep abreast of the trends in the industry. The plant is equipped to produce premium shirting and high fashion printed fabric for clients across the globe. In the domestic market. two new fabric manufacturing units have been set up in Nagpur. Manufacturing Facilities . satin.Yarn dyed shirting division and Printing Division for voile. Morarjee caters to popular brands like Louis Philippe. Van Huesen and Zodiac. Esprit.3.Morarjee into a leading player in the fabric business. Hugo Boss. Next. Zara.Fabric Morarjee has an integrated manufacturing plant at Nagpur in Central India. Morarjee subsidiary company. Corporate Profile Morarjee is a leading player in premium cotton shirting fabric and high fashion printed fabric globally. casual shirts and garments for women. These are supported by stateof-the-art Design Studios. Dyeing 6.1. New process house Engraving Office Colour Kitchen Printing Exit Dyeing Exit Chemical store Finishing Bleaching Folding Blow Room Spinning Weaving 6 .Folding 1.4.1.2.4.Plant Layout of Morarjee Textiles Ltd.Finishing 8.4.Printing 7. Departments 1.Unit II details Plant is having following departments: 1 2 3 4 Spinning Weaving Quality assurance laboratory (wet and dry) Pretreatment 5. Admin. Organization chart Chairman Managing Director Chief Executive Officer Unit I Unit II HOD Spinning HOD Weaving Design Studio Processing & Dyeing Engineering 7 Marketing Inspection & dispatch Qualityservices HR Assurance Printing .3.4. Spinning Singeing Preparatory processes For Weaving Exit Entry Exit . Quality Assurance • • Physical Testing Chemical Testing 8 . Design studio • • • • Creation Separation Exposing Strike off 2. and mercerization) Dyeing After Treatment 4.2. Printing • • • • Rotary Printing Flatbed printing Gum & Printing Paste Preparation After Treatment Pretreatment (scouring. bleaching. Departments Studied: 1. Processing • • • 3. customizes designs and also gives access to the latest international styles. exclusive colors. Design studio division 1. patterns and designs. marketing and quality control.3. 9 . The finalized design is then sent for engraving or exposing. It has set up a state-of-the-art design studio in Italy and India. design studio. 3. The people from marketing department visit the place and understand about the design that needs to be printed according to the specifications provided by the buyer. for over a century. Creation-The design is created and designed according to the specifications given by the customer.1. Separation: The colors present in the specific design are made in several specific channels. 3. There are 16 members in the design studios. To spearhead this. The design to be printed is decided by : • • • • specifications given by the buyer Trend forecasting Fashion forecasting Magazines report 2. These studios are run by creative a team that provide speedy solutions and ideas. It is decided by the printing department. Design Studio Morarjee has always played a great role in the fashion movement. The color components present in the design are segregated individually to understand the color requirement according to that design. The process of separation is done on the basis of availability of machines & the design specifications given by the buyer. Engraving or exposing: This is the process of engraving the specified design on the screens so that it can be used for printing processes. PPC. Figure 1 .Process flow of exposing: Unpacking the screen Changing the curvature of screen that is flat to cylindrical Degreasing Coating Exposing Developing Endring Preparation of Dichromate Solution 100 ml of distilled water + 20 gm ammonium bicarbonate powder 20 % aqueous solution for mixing in photo emulsion Photo emulsion • 1 kg photo emulsion + 150 gm distilled water + 50-65 gm ready aqueous solution The chemical is prepared and filtered. the sensitizer with emulsion make bubbles. it will burst during coating and there will be uneven coating. Coating Machine 10 . so to avoid bubbles it is kept in a freezer. If we use the chemical directly with bubbles. In mixing. then kept in a freezer for 4 hours before coating. In freezer the chemical become viscous. it is smooth in nature.and the design printing area is 60”.Coating parameter I.35 sec (flat bed screens) Screens The screen is made up of nickel alloy.29-32 0C II. rings are attached in the ends of the screen so that it can be fitted in printing machine. ALALDITE Epoxy Gum + Hardener -------. The length of the screens comes in 641. Degreaser When nickel screen is unpacked.2 mm and 1750 mm. The preparation for flat bed screen Printing is 12 minutes. IV.000. 300 and once used it cannot be used again for further printing. which is used for printing. which is minutely perforated in nature. The screen comes in three sizes 61cm. It is put in a degreaser to make the screen rough so that chemical can easily impregnate into the screen and the imprint of colors on the fabric make denser. V . Endring In Endring.4cm circumference. Nickel screen is used and mesh size of 40-holes/linear inch. The oils. The cost of one screen for rotary print is Rs. 4.Total time taken for screen . Nickel screen screen size is 82” X 42”. The cost of one screen for flat bed printing machine is Rs. Temperature required . Drying of screen for 40 – 60 min (rotary screen printing) III.Light exposure . Stipper Acid is used to clean the screens.Gum Paste 11 Figure 2 . The coating is done in the absence of white light. waxes & impurities are also removed and then dry naturally.4cm. 81. and 91.and 500 – 1000 m clothes pieces can be printed using one screen. V.V. Color scanner technology 4. Strike Off • The order or design specifications are given by the buyer to the marketing department and the design studio.urea (10-15 %) . light and design remain perforated.e. Figure 3. The U.V. the spaces will be blocked by the U. Samples are made on baby rotary printing machine ( screen -15” X 15” ) Ingredients used for printing is sodium alginate (4%) . The U. • • • It deals mainly with the sampling of the specified design. • This process takes a time span of 10 days for the completion of whole process. light passes through the whole rotary screen.sodium bicarbonate . • 10 -15 made samples are sent to the buyer for approval out of which5-7 samples are selected for bulk printing.Gum Paste is applied in the ends of the screen where ring is attached by heating rods at 750W. Color scanner Technology (CST): In CST. 12 . light will pass only through the spaces where black ink jet does not draw the design i. designs are programmed in CAD and black ink jet draws that design on the rotary screen.Turkey Red oil (TRO ) and water (80 % ). Design Studio Barriers Language barrier Exact colour matching Need to work fast according to buyer and market. 13 .2. Need to check every design for its feasibility.BABY STRIKE OFF or BABY ROTARY MACHINE Type of screen used –Rotary screen Length of the rod-15Mm Pressure required-80kg/cm2 Speed-60 rpm Figure 4. Baby strike off machine Process Flow for Baby strike off Hot Wash with Soap (2gpl) • Sample Taken Out • Ageing At 950C (2 times) Colour Approval Half Piece Finish Drying Cold Wash 3. Processing unit Department Processing Department No. Pretreatment Processing PROCESSING SINGEING* DESIZING* MERCERISATION *Not available in unit II SCOURING & BLEACHING 4. 8 2 3 Machines BENNINGER JIGGER (capacity-150 kg) KLEINEWEFERS Mercerization (capacity-2500m) STAR-HISAKA jet dyeing 14 .1.4. A variation of this process is hot mercerization. It adds more value to the fabric. This process involves saturation of fabric in caustic soda solution at higher temperatures and then cooling.5bar. Mercerization Called after its inventor John Mercer. stretching and final washing. shrinkage resistance. The yarn or fiber is dipped in a solution of sodium hydroxide and then treated with water or acid to neutralize the sodium hydroxide. This process is important for cotton fabric which is treated with a caustic solution for improving properties such as fiber strength.2. 15 . Mangle pressure-3. The cloth is soaked in strong caustic soda and washed under tension. The treatment is usually carried out under tension. Hot mercerization is done.350 kg) KUSTER PADDING( cold pad batch) KIER scouring & bleaching (capacity-2100kg) PRIMATEX stenter 4.330 Figure 5. Mercerization machine g/l). luster.30° (approx. and dye affinity. with caustic soda at 28°. 270. Concentration of caustic soda is around 280-300 g/l.1 2 2 2 3 1 ROPE OPENER SHAKTI JUMBO JIGGER (capacity-250 kg) YAMUNA JIGGER (capacity. Treatment temperature is 50 0C. Cold mercerization faces the problem of non-uniformity due to highly viscous solution. A total of 12 rollers are there in bleaching machine. Process Flow: WETTING WITH • WATER PADDING (50 0C. 10% shrinkage during mercerization. 4. caustic) SQEEZING IN THREE CHAMBERS WASHING (950C.2. 160-165m fabric with width of 2m inside the machine at a time. CRP (CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT) 20-30 Sec) NEUTRALIZATION DRYING 16 .1. Bleaching is further Natural bleached classified fibers with are into all oxidative generally methods or bleaching and reductive bleaching. For this. oxidative sodium using such chemicals as sodium hypochlorite. the following are required: Pressure.3. – Split proteins and pectins.4. Kier 4. Oxidative bleaching with peroxide is done Figure 7. Scouring The aim of alkali scouring is to produce an absorbent material with an average degree of whiteness and extremely low mechanical and chemical damage. Optical Brightening Agents (OBA) are also applied to give the textile material a brilliant white look. Bleaching It is the process of decolorization for removing all natural colors from the gray good.20 kg/cm2 8 hour boiling at 120 0C Figure 6. It is a chemical based process. chlorite hydrogen peroxide. Scouring should be: – Saponify fats and waxes. Jet Bleaching with OBA 17 .4. In addition to bleaching. PH: .4. Precautions Steam flow should be uniform 18 Quantity (ml/kg) 30 4.phenolphthalein (colorless to violet) at PH 8-9 Whiteness index (spectrophotometer) Figure 8. II. Initially three washers 90 0C.2. 90 0C. Fabric rests over the belt is plated form and so provides residence time of 13 min. and 60 0C respectively Last four washers at 90 0C.5 24 18 . Fabric has to be tested for I.4. Jet Dyeing Machine 4. Recipe for bleaching bath Chemicals Peroxide (Megawet RW) Wetting agent Stabilizer NaOH • Steaming temperature 92 0C 4. Soda and Megawet RW is used as commercial reagents in Morarjee textiles. 90 0C. 90 0C.1. It is combined scouring and bleaching process Peroxide bleaching is used instead of Hypochlorite because it provides permanent whiteness and also does not require any antichlor treatment 7 washing zones. and 60 0C respectively Last chamber is meant for neutralization with acetic acid Running speed of take up roller 40 rpm It varies with required finish of the fabric It has a chain (conveyor belt) system in steaming chamber. But some weaving is carried out with yarns that have already been dyed. Small Jigger 19 .4. 4. was discovered by William Henry Perkins in 1856.3. Sufficient residence time Uniform pressure. Dyeing Often applied to the finished cloth to give a uniform all-over colour. And printing can also be considered as a dyeing process. Problems Patches may appear sometimes due to improper temperature control in steamer and so roof temperature is kept slightly higher than base temperature. 5. With artificial dyes there was a much greater range of bright colours and dyes were developed which were 'fast' and also fade-resistant. The first artificial dye. mauve aniline derived from coal tar. Figure 10. Jumbo Jigger Figure 9. 1. Kuster machine (CPB) Figure 2. SANFORISING 20 WASH BATCH . Kuster (continuous dyeing) 5.Figure 11. Dyeing Process Flow DYEING Jumbo & CPB (Kuster Dyeing) Small Jigger Yamuna Jigger AFTER TREATMENT (SOAPER WASH) FINISHING STENTER. 8-14 hrs Normal .95 0C Soaping .1.95 0C Neutralization .5 Washing (cold wash) 5.5.2.Ph 4.60 0C Hot wash . Developing solutions Reactive dye: 20 g/l Glauber salt + 20 g/l soda ash + 5 g/l caustic soda + 3 g/l resist salt. Dyeing Methods and Procedure Dyeing Methods CPB Dyeing(1000ml) Procedure • • • • Batching • • • Washing • • • • • Color + 60 ml water + 20ml urea 10 ml soda (for light shades) 20 ml soda + Caustic (20 :5) (for medium shades) 20 ml soda + Caustic(20:8) (for dark shades) Light shade .8-12 hrs Dark shade .8 hrs Medium shade . 21 . Stren gth(% ) 126 113 107 104 136 95 131 103 124 100 Reactobond quant ity(gr am) 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 Jakofix quant ity(gr am) 793 885 935 961 735 1052 763 970 806 1000 Red H8B Blue H3RP Brown H4R Orange H2R L.Colour Name Reactobond col.Yellow HR Black HN Purple H3R 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% T.Blue P5G/HN 100% Black CECL/ XLW 100% Dyestuff:- 22 . stren gth Jakofix col.Yellow H4G G. 5. 23 . Cold pad batch: Silicate padding is done.3. Bath temperature is kept 200C. Dye liquor containing urea is fed into the tank along with alkali. Soaper machine .400C without soap and acid.3. Speed-40m/min..2. Stitch marks-Plastic paper is placed over the seam. 5. 5.5 % 0. 5.3. Problems: Patches-Adjust the speed to maintain proper residence time.4.2 cooling rolls 24 Figure 11. Mangle expression (CPB-2)-60%. Types of dyeing Reactive dyeing DEPTH 0-0. After treatment SOAPER Stenter wash at 300C.5.5-1.5-3 % 3-7 % Black SALT (g/l) 30 40 60 80 100 SODA (50 %) 10 12 15 20 5 CAUSTIC (ml/l) 1 1 1 1 2 5.5% 1.1. Counter flow washing is done. Batching time: 12-14 hrs for medium and dark shades 8-10 hrs for light shade Washing is done after batching.4:1. Air pressure-7 bar. 18 drying rolls. Dye liquor: alkali. 135m fabric inside the machine at a time 150m inside relax chamber 25000L water in each chamber Fabric speed-35m/min Expander rolls at feeding end to remove creases 5.5. it is known as greige good or gray good. Many finishing processes are employed for improving the appearance. Recipes and conditions Pre-softening (on stenter): Pursoft Acetic acid 10 g/l 2 g/l Washing: - Soda Wetting agent Speed 15g/l 4g/l 50m/min. This simply denotes any unfinished fabric. 25 . After construction of fabric through one of the many techniques described above.1. feel and durability of the fabric. Stentering (done by "stenterers") removes these bumps. or any wet process. Fabric speed: -50m/min Speed and temperature are two important parameters CHAMBER NO 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LIGHT SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C MEDIUM SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C DARK SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 150 0C 150 0C 150 0C Faults 26 .6. II. Because after bleaching. the cloth will get wrinkled or creased. Stenter Both pin and clip arrangements are used Oil heating mechanism for drying 7 chambers in stenter.5. It is used for: I. Stenter This is basically a smoothing out of the cloth. For OBA application For heat setting Figure 12. Bowing and heading rollers at the feed end to remove creases. Pin holes Yellowing Oil spots or soiling 5. there is a setting zone to set the shrinkage in fabric Fabric is cooled and then batched Some shade variation may occur Pressure-9kg/cm2 6.7. Printing 27 . Sanforiser Steam heated roller over belt at 110 0C 50 m fabric from in to out After shrinking zone. Sanforising It is pre shrinking finishing Rubber belt shrinks the fabric along with it Shrinkage > 5 % Speed 50 m/min Figure 13. It is the process of transferring the given design on the specified fabric by the printing department. Figure 15.1. Flatbed screen printing Figure 14. expenses and profit To bring down value loss to less than 5% To continuously reduce cost 28 . Printing is a very economical means of producing patterned material. Rotary screen printing 6. The dye is applied by rollers and flat bed screens and each color is applied separately PVA is used for the adhesion of fabric on conveyor belt Speed 80-90 m/min Dummy rollers to remove surface impurities Maximum screens are possible Rangolite is used as discharging agent in paste form Belt is washed and used again. Quality Objective: To get budgeted sales. 6. engraving. Printing department process flow Marketing Cad approval DESIGN STUDIO s/off approval and D/P design planning . exposing and screen frame checking PRINTING DEPARTEMENT Planning for colors.3.separation. chemicals and fabric printing AGEING or CURING Washing Quality or Fastness Checking Delivered to finishing 29 . 5. Printing Department objectives under ISO 9001 -2008 Sr. Increase packaging percentage printed fabric To achieve the EXPORT 92. marketing. 1.84 % March 2012 Modify recipe and reuse the dyes Current level Target level Date Action printing dyes and OTIF % Styles of printing Direct Style Discharge Style Resist Style Pigment Discharge Reactive colour Pigment Colour 6.0 % 6.4. Reduce chemicals 2.05 % 93. QC and of 93.08 % EXPORT 95 % RMG 75 % March 2012 Co-ordination between customers PPC.05 % RMG 72. Pigments – 30 .45 % March 2012 Steps defects to control cost of 7.6.no Objective . wood. It can be done on white or a coloured fabric. Coal. Many times a printer will print opaque white to help "hide" the influence of a dark colour paper on the overprinting ink. Transparent pigments are used to allow the background material or ink to be seen. Generally there is a wider selection of colors in relationship to inorganic pigments. Colors tend to be richer. and vegetable oils are also used in organic pigment manufacture. do not themselves absorb any colour and allow better penetration of colour. Nowadays gums or alginates derived from seaweed are preferred because they are easier to wash out.7. Organic pigments contain carbon and hydrogen and most are made from petroleum. Most pigment printing is done without thickeners as the mixing up of resins. and more transparent. 6. There are various types of pigments such as organic and inorganic. Process inks need to be transparent to allow the proper tapping mechanism to occur. To prepare the print paste. Earlier corn starch was preferred as a thickening agent for cotton printing. Pigment colour is determined by the proportions of the chemicals used to produce a pigment.6. a thickening agent is added to a limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it. Inorganic pigments are chemical compounds. Opaque pigments are used when transferring an image to cover a substrate or when overprinting another colour. brighter. animal fats. They give good opacity but lack some of the qualities of organic pigments inks. All process colors (black. such as transparency. 6. it is known as overprinting. The desired pattern is produced by imprinting dye on the fabric in a paste form. Opaque whites are also used for mixing with other inks to lighten the colour or hue. If done on coloured fabric. magenta and yellow) are transparent. cyan. Direct Printing:It is the most common approach to apply a colour pattern on fabric. Discharge Printing 31 . Pigments are classed as opaque and transparent pigments. Ink made with inorganic pigments are less expensive to produce than those made with organic pigments.These are dry particles that give colour to ink. solvents and water itself produces thickening. typically formed by precipitation. 8. Sometimes. For motif colour –mix for 5-7 min. and solvents. and U. Color Preparation ingredients Required amount of colour is taken. the fabric is dyed in piece and then it is printed with a chemical that destroys the colour in the designed areas. vinyon or metal. curable ink. The viscosity of the paste is measured. surfactants.9. caustics and oxidizers used in screen reclamation. This allows for some very interesting effects that are not possible using other printing methods. nylon. improved dryers. it is known as 'Flat Screen Printing' or 'Rotary Screen Printing'.V. The printing paste or dye is poured on the screen and forced through its unblocked areas onto the fabric. For blotch color-mix for 10-12 min.(blotch 25-30s & motif 45-60 seconds) The colour paste is filtered using polyester bolting cloth and labeling is done 32 . The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly washed. Screen Printing It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads. The major chemicals used include screen emulsions. A significant characteristic of screen printing is that a greater thickness of the color can be applied to the substrate than is possible with other printing techniques. Based on the type of the screen used. the base colour is removed and another colour is printed in its place. TRO is added and dissolved in hot water at 60 0 C. sodium alginate paste. 6. Because of the simplicity of the application process.In this approach. This has been a result of the development of the automated and rotary screen printing press. 6. The above made paste is added to the gum paste i. polyester. 2. 1. inks. a wider range of inks and dyes are available for use in screen printing than for use in any other printing process.e. Utilization of screen printing presses has begun to increase because production rates have improved. 6. Process flow for Reactive Printing Printing Drying Ageing Ready for finishing Washing 6.10.1. Ingredients for reactive color Printing (1000 liter) Ingredients Hexa phosphate sodium alginate CHT alginate Ludigol AR (softening agent ) Urea thickening agent Sarex –Al -1 sodium Bicarbonate (Alkali ) Mega print PRA (viscosity) Amount (in kg) 3kg 12 kg 12 kg 4 kg _ _ 35 kg 10 kg 33 .10. 4 kg of Ludigol AR is added to the water for the softening action and added to gum paste. 9.5). Process flow for Pigment Printing Printing Drying Curing Finishing 34 Quality checking . and the viscosity of the paste is checked (60-90 viscosity )and PH is checked (PH =8. 6. The gum is cooled down and urea is added to reduce and maintain the temperature of 45 deg. 6. The gum paste is stored then in large tanks. stirring. 7. 10 kg of Mega print PRA is added to gum and stirred for 10 min. 10. The vessel is cleaned.11.2. Celsius. Stirrer is started and 3k of sodium Meta hexa phosphate is added and left for 10 min. 2. Add 12 kg of sodium alginate and 12 kg of CHT alginate while stirring as a thickening agent. Stirring of gum is done for 4 hours. Now the thickening agent Sarex –Al -1 is added in water and added to gum paste.6. 4. Reactive color Paste Preparation 1. 5. 8. 3. Now 35 kg of sodium Bicarbonate is added for the alkaline medium maintenance and stirred for 10 min.10. 6. 0. 6-8 kg of Lutexal HEF 97 is added and run for 15 min. 6. and 5 min.1. Process flow of Pigment Discharging Printing Drying • Printing Ageing • • Quality Checking Washing Curing Finishing 35 . Urea is added and run for 5 min.5 Kg of Liquid ammonia is added and left for 20-30 min.12. Kept in stirrer and 6 kg of binder FBET and binder FBTW is added and run for 5 min. 25 Kg of Luprintol MCL and Luprintol PE New is added to the solution and run for 15 min. respectively. Pigment paste preparation Vessel is washed and 70 liters of water is added.11. and stirred. Pigment discharge paste Vessel is washed and 70 liters of water is added. 2.1. Urea is added and run for 5 min.2. and 5 min. 15 kg of Rangolite ST to paste and run for 15 min.12. Ingredients of Pigment Discharge Printing Paste Ingredients Water Pidicryl Binder BN Parts 168 parts 15 Parts 1 part anol amine (TEA ) ***Liquid Ammonia Pidimine S1/100 Urea Pidicron DTS Total = 1 part 2. 6.5 Kg of Luprintol MCL and Luprintol PE New is added to the solution and run for 15 min.5 Parts 3 Parts 10 Parts 100 Parts *** Around 1-2 % of Pidiprint 160 (thickener) is added in the above mixture so that it becomes slightly thicker and does not come out during stirring. Kept in stirrer and 6 kg of binder FBET and binder FBTW is added and run for 5 min.12.6. 36 . respectively. 2 mtr 3000 mm 1 3040 mm 1 1 37 . 8.2 cm 2000 mm Weftwise 2400 mm Weftwise 2060 mm Warpwise 16. of dryer 4 chamber 2060 mm Warpwise Fixed 64. Printing blade 5 s Blanket length 11. Make Model Yr. No. Specification Rotary M/C Busher Bed M/c 1. Maneklal Hydromag III 1980 10 Hydraulic 1575 mm 7-8 mtr /min Polyester Bolting cloth 9. 12.13. 6-8 kg of Lutexal HEF 97 is added and run for 15 min. of mfg. of colors Function Printing width Speed max.No. 6. equipments and their specifications Sr.5 mtr Rubber 50.8 mtr Flat Ichinose Bed M/c Ichinose Ichinose 7000 2006 12 Pneumatic 2100 mm 2005 2 Hydraulic 1850 mm Flat Baby M/c M-Tex Rotary 10-18 mtr /min 5 mtr/min Polyester Bolting cloth Rubber 61. No.5 Kg of Liquid ammonia is added and left for 20-30 min. 10. 3.5 mtr Magnet rod 16. 5. 0. 6. 7. 13. Blanket width Printing Design repeat 14. 2. and stirred.5 mtr Nickel Metal Variable upto Variable upto Fix 64. 4. List of machine. Screen used Stormac Stormac IV 1984 13 Pneumatic 1850 mm 70 mtr/min Nickel Metal T. After treatment Specifications of Equipments and Machinery used Sr. 2.6. Curing by oil heating at 150 0C for 3-5 min Ageing by steaming at 1020 – 103 0 C for 6-8 min.14.000 mtr /day Loop Texfab Ager Texfab (India ) 2006 Automatic 101 “ 98 “ 230 mtr Developing and reactive discharge colour 40. 5. Texfab loopager 950 kg / hr steam pressure and the time of contact is 9-10 min. Specifications used in pigment printing and color fixation (ageing stage) Reactive Printing Pigment printing 38 Discharge printing Color fixation . 4. Production/day 20.000 mtr /day Texfab (India ) 2007 Automatic 78 “ 72 “ 180 mtr For and clothes washing Loop Texfab soaper 6. 6.16. 3. 6. No. Figure 16.000 mtr /day 35. Texfab Loop Ager 50 loops For 200 meter of fabric ageing can be done in one move. Specification Arioli Ager 1.15. 7. Make Yr of manufacture Machine function Roller width Working width Fabric capacity Used for Arioli (Italy) 2004 Manually 78 “ 72 “ 200 mtr Developing reactive discharge colour 8. during Ageing. 20 _ _ _ 90-1200 C 4-7 kg/cm2 45 x 0. 950 C Only cold wash with spray . Texfab Soaper 6.15 45 x 0.20 120-1550C 4-7 kg/cm2 45 x 0. Texfab Soaper specifications and activities Tank Tank 1 Tank 2 Tank 3 Tank 4 Tank 5 Tank 6 Tank 7 Capacity 980 ltr 1750 ltr 1400 ltr 1200 ltr 1200 ltr 1400 ltr 980 ltr Temperature _ _ 65 0 C 950 C 950 C 900 C _ 39 Process carried out Cold wash (500 gm Hcl for 600 mtr ) Cold wash spray and overflow Hot wash Hot wash with soap (Dekol ) Hot wash with soap 1. Texfab Soaper Made from Texfab Company (Surat).Temperature Air pressure Squeeze blade 110-1400 C 4-7 kg/cm2 45 x 0. Figure 17. 16 dryer chambers and 4 cooling chamber.20 _ _ _ _ _ _ Chamber temp.18. Contact time Loop length _ _ _ 102-1040 C 9-10 min 4 mtrs.5 gpl Only hot wash temp.17. 6. 7 tanks for hot washing and cold washing.15 45 x 0.15 45 x 0. After making the color the PH checking becomes difficult so keep some color extra for PH checking.6.18. The tension of the conveyer is adjusted properly so that the spots and stains can be avoided.17. Setting of pressure of magnetic rod and squeeze blade is done properly to avoid the misprints and other printing defects. If the PH is less then add some liquid ammonia to maintain the PH. Environmental aspects and impacts of printing: Aspects Use of chemicals Use of steam Spill or leakage of chemicals Fumes and heat Use of oil and grease Impacts Excess chemical consumption Resource depletion Soil and water pollution Human discomfort in summer Spent oil and hazardous wastes Steps of improvement To improve the safe working practices Use 40 of PPE (personal productivity . 6. Control parameter for Rotary Printing : Proper cleaning of rotary screen is done to avoid regular check up of the screen while printing is in process. fuzziness and the bubbling in the print paste. 6. Control parameters and precautions before Printing: PH of the printing paste should not be less than 9. Same amount of ammonia should be added to paste as well as color before printing to avoid the defects.19. It maintains the quality standards. 7.1.ISO/AATCC standards are followed.1. Quality assurance Quality assurance department works on in process quality control. Instruments and tests: Seam Slippage/Tensile Tester (H5RT) 41 . It has been divided into separate zones.equipments) and make available MSDS (material safety data sheet ) Conserve water resources Use of recycled water from ETP (effluent treatment plant ) 7. Lab dip section In process control Finished product inspection Note: .1. which work independently. Physical testing 7. Norms: Tensile strength: .) 7. Dark shade 3 42 .5 lbf Seam slippage: .2. Light shade ---.4 II. Tearing Strength Tester (Paramount) Crock Meter (Paramount) Washing Fastness Testing Computerized Twist Tester (BTRA) Random Tumble Pilling Tester (SDL atlas) Martindale Pilling Tester (SDL atlas) Wrap Reel (Kamal metal ind.15 lbf Pilling (Martindale) ---.minimum 1.4 Color fastness I.minimum 25 lbf Tear strength: .3 – 4 III.1. Medium shade --. 3. Light shade ----. II. V. Rubbing fastness I.2 – 3 7. Maximum distance or deviation from straight edge is measured Measure the full width of the test specimen % Bow = (max deviation in cm)*100/full width in cms Dimensional change Tearing strength (pendulum method) Fabric construction (ASTM D 1375) :. Take a full width specimen and level the weft yarn Then a straight edge is placed across the fabric between two points at which the last reversed yarn meets the two selvedge or edge III. Check points WEIGHT/ sq meter and WEIGHT/linear meter Width of fabric Fabric construction of woven fabric BOW: . II. IV.determination of dimensional change in test specimen when subjected to repeated laundering 43 .1.no of ends or picks falling per unit distance when fabric is held without tension DCAHL (AATCC – 135): . III.3 Dark shade -----.bow occurs when yarns are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvedge and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric I.4 Medium shade ----. Seam slippage testing Test the suitability of woven fabric seaming.4. Seam slippage (ASTM D 434) Crease recovery angle (AATCC 66) Abrasion resistance (Martindale ASTM D 4966-98) Pilling resistance (ASTM D 497-99) Absorbency (AATCC 79-59) Whiteness using spectrophotometer Color fastness to washing Water fastness (AATCC 107 – 199 D) Perspiration fastness 7.1. Seam slippage is the load required to produce a specific amount of opening in a given direction (warp over weft or weft or warp) In “warp over weft” warp yarns moves/slides over the weft yarn and vice versa Cut a piece of fabric 4*14 inch with long direction parallel to the weft yarn for warp yarn slide over Fold the specimen 4 inch from one end with the fold parallel to short direction of the fabric (face to face) 44 . Sew a seam of about ¾ inch from crease of folding 40/3 spun PET thread with 0.03 inch needle in diameter Cut the fold open Fold the entire specimen at equal distance and cut an un-seamed sample Cut three samples Condition the specimen Set the machine at 75 mm jaw separation 300m/min speed Test the seamed and un-seamed sample (seam should be between upper and lower jaws) 7.2. Chemical testing This is done to check the purity of chemicals NORMS: CHEMICAL Caustic soda H2O2 Sodium hydrosulphite Hypochlorite PURITY > 47 % > 49 % > 84 % > 40 g/l of available Cl 45 . 2.1 N phenolphthalein as indicator.5 Moisture 10 – 15 % > 95 % > 95 % > 93 % < 300 ppm 6.Glauber salt Alginate MgCl2 Resist salt Soda ash Hardness pH 6. DESCRIPTION OF SOME TEST Test Concentration of recovery caustic I.5 7. Gram per liter = B. Take 10 ml from this solution and titrate it against 0.R.* 40 46 .5 < Ph <7. II.1.1 N HCl using 0. Procedure Take 5 ml sample of caustic and add 500 ml of water.5 – 8. II. Color change pink to colorless and yellow to orange. Add 2-3 drops of indicator phenolphthalein.245N HCl Reading * 2= grams/lit Purity of Caustic soda I. II.Testing of H2O2 I. Titrate against KMNO4 (0. Use 4 % K2Cr2O7 as an indicator with end point of yellow to red. Add acetic acid & potassium iodide(10%) 47 . Chlorine in water (mg/l) = B. Take 5-6 gm of sample in 500 ml of water Take 25 ml of this diluted solution in conical flask Titrate it against 0. IV. Add 5ml (20%) sulphuric acid. Take 5ml of soda bleach solution.588 N) End point: colourless to pink Reading*2= grams/lit Testing of Caustic soda I. Take 5ml peroxide soln.02 N AgNO3 II. Take 100 ml of water sample and titrate it against 0. II. Take 2 ml caustic soln.2. Titrate it against 0. 7.R* 10 Testing of NaOCl III.2.1 N HCl using phenolphthalein and methyl orange as indicator. Calculations Test mg/l of chlorine in water Procedure I. III. 5 Dyed 5.3. We were introduced to the various brands of machineries available for carrying out the different textile processes to meet global standards. 48 . printing and quality control & assurance methods of textile processing. Maharashtra. pretreatment of cotton fabric. Nagpur. Full white 5.5 – 7. The duration of the internship was of two weeks where we had covered designs studio. II. dyeing.IV.28 N) End point:-Brown solution turns colourless Reading *2=gram/lit 7.2. Titrate with sodium thiosulphate(0. We study the various aspects of a textile processing unit starting from design section to the functionality of the various departments. Specifications: For mercerized sample: Whiteness – minimum 75 Residual size – min 7 (on a scale of 1-9) pH I.5 – 7 Absorbency Finished < 10 sec Conclusion The textile internship has been completed in Morarjee Textiles Ltd. A very interesting observation was made by us while studying the dyeing section. the kuster padding machine was completely covered with mosquito net fabric. 49 . This was done to avoid the entry of insects and mosquitoes while dyeing so that it should be free from the defects like white dots on the fabric. The internship helped us to understand the structural and functional constituents of the industry and also adapt to real industrial situations which equipped us for decision making in a realistic environment.