M O D E RMODERNIST N I S T B R E BRE AD A D Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya MODERNIST BREAD ISBN 978-0-9827610-5-2 SRP $625 USD / $625 CAD / £425 GBP / €525 / $825 AUD ABOUT NATHAN MYHRVOLD ABOUT THE TEAM THE COOKING LAB FOUNDER The Modernist Cuisine team is an interdisciplinary group in Bellevue, Washington, founded by Nathan Myhrvold. The Nathan Myhrvold, lead author of Modernist officer of Microsoft is the founder and CEO team comprises scientists, research and development chefs, Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (2011), of Intellectual Ventures. He is an avid inventor a full editorial and photography department, and sales and Modernist Cuisine at Home (2012), The Photog- and prolific author in the fields of tech- marketing staff—all dedicated to advancing the science of raphy of Modernist Cuisine (2013), and Modern- nology, paleontology, climatology, energy, the culinary arts through creativity and experimentation. ist Bread (fall 2017), is a chef, photographer, bioterrorism, and more. He holds several They have published Modernist Cuisine: The Art and and scientist. Myhrvold founded the Modern- degrees, including a doctorate in theoretical Science of Cooking (2011), Modernist Cuisine at Home (2012), ist Cuisine team and led the development and and mathematical physics; master’s degrees in and The Photography of Modernist Cuisine (2013), and pro- production of all four books as well as the economics, geophysics, and space physics; a duced The Photography of Modernist Cuisine: The Exhibition. Modernist Cuisine Gallery in Las Vegas. bachelor’s degree in mathematics; and In addition, The Cooking Lab has developed a spherification In addition to his culinary and photo- a culinary diploma from École de Cuisine kit, gel kit, and the Modernist Cuisine™ Special Edition Baking graphic pursuits, the former chief technology La Varenne. Steel. Modernist Cuisine Gallery, located in Las Vegas, fea- tures the books and Nathan Myhrvold’s photography. ABOUT FRANCISCO MIGOYA THE COOKING LAB HEAD CHEF Francisco Migoya is the co-author of de Barcelona awarded him the Medal of Modernist Bread and leads the Modernist Master Artisan Pastry Chef (2013). Migoya Cuisine culinary team as head chef. An owned Hudson Chocolates in New York innovative pastry chef, his most recent book, and worked at both The French Laundry and The Elements of Dessert (John Wiley & Sons, Bouchon Bakery as executive pastry chef. 2012), won a 2014 International Association Prior to joining the Modernist Cuisine team, of Culinary Professional Cookbook Award Migoya was a professor at The Culinary in the Professional Kitchens category. He Institute of America, where his areas of has been recognized as a top U.S. pastry instruction included bread, viennoiserie, chef and chocolatier. Gremi de Pastisseria pastry, and culinary science. ABOUT THE COOKING LAB The Cooking Lab is Modernist Cuisine’s in-house publish- kitchens in the world and includes access to a full set of ing division. In addition to publishing, The Cooking Lab machining, analytical, and computational facilities. Equipped provides consulting, R&D, and invention services to food with a state-of-the-art photography studio, the team uses companies and culinary equipment makers, both large groundbreaking photography techniques, including in-house and small. Their new research laboratory, operated by SEM, micro, and macro imagery. Intellectual Ventures, provides one of the best-equipped MODERNIST BREAD ISBN 978-0-9827610-5-2 5 volumes + kitchen manual More than: • 2,600 pages • 1,000,000 words • 3,000 photographs • 1,200 recipes Description: Five 10.25 × 13.4 inch hardcover books with ribbon markers, two wedges, and wire-o kitchen manual. 13.75 × 11.13 × 8.63 inches (stainless steel slipcase) 6 MODERNIST CUISINE BREAD LEAN DOUGH 7 FOREWORD BY CHAD ROBERTSON CHAPTER 7: GRAINS FOREWORD BY FRANCISCO MIGOYA Amazing Grass MY CULINARY JOURNEY BY NATHAN MYHRVOLD Wheat STORY OF THIS BOOK Other Grains ABOUT THE RECIPES The Life Cycle of Grain The Economics and Politics of Grain The Commodity System and Cheap Bread Volume 1 CHAPTER 8: FLOUR Flour Milling History and Fundamentals What is in Flour? CHAPTER 1: HISTORY Wheat Flours The Ancient World Rye Flours The Premodern Era Other Flours and Powders The Industrial Age The Information Age CHAPTER 9: LEAVENING The Future of Bread Yeast Sourdough CHAPTER 2: MICROBIOLOGY FOR BAKERS Chemical Leaveners Spoilage and Fermentation Foodborne Illness CHAPTER 10: FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS Sources of Contamination Ingredient Classification Preventing Contamination Salt Sugars CHAPTER 3: BREAD AND HEALTH Fats and Oils Dietary Systems Improving Dough Medical Dietary Systems Nonmedical Dietary Systems CHAPTER 11: INGREDIENT PREPARATION Gluten Intolerance Inclusions Grain and Seed Inclusions CHAPTER 4: HEAT AND ENERGY Flavored Liquids and Purees The Nature of Heat and Temperature Fruits and Vegetables Energy, Power, and Efficiency Meats and Cheeses Heat in Motion Nuts and Sweets CHAPTER 5: THE PHYSICS OF FOOD AND WATER FURTHER READING Water Is Strange Stuff Freezing and Thawing Vaporization and Condensation Water as a Solvent Volume 3 Water Quality and Purity Techniques and Equipment FURTHER READING CHAPTER 12: FERMENTATION Commercial Yeast Preferments Levain Volume 2 CHAPTER 13: MIXING Ingredients The Details of Mixing CHAPTER 6: MAKING BREAD Machine Mixing The Basics of Bread Hand Mixing Planning to Bake Bread Bulk Fermentation Bread Making by the Book CHAPTER 14: DIVIDING AND SHAPING CHAPTER 21: ENRICHED BREADS Dividing Brioche Shaping by Hand Challah Braiding White Sandwich Bread French Regional Breads CHAPTER 22: RYE BREADS CHAPTER 15: FINAL PROOFING Farmer’s Bread Proofing Equipment High Ryes Final Proofing Methods Calling Proof CHAPTER 23: WHOLE GRAIN BREADS Cold-Proofing Dough Breads Made From Whole Grains Bavarian Pumpernickel CHAPTER 16: SCORING AND FINISHING Vollkornbrot Scoring Finishing FURTHER READING CHAPTER 17: HOW BREAD BAKES The Physics of Baking Ovens Volume 5 Deck Ovens Convection Ovens with Steam Recipes II Convection Ovens without Steam CHAPTER 24: FLAT BREADS Pizza Ovens Crackers Tandoor Ovens Injera Dosa CHAPTER 18: BAKING Inflated Breads Transforming Dough Into Bread Naan Baking In Professional Ovens Focaccia Baking In Home Ovens Pizza Baking Without An Oven Parbaking Bread CHAPTER 25: BAGELS, PRETZELS, AND BAO Pretzels CHAPTER 19: COOLING AND SERVING Bagels Cooling Bao Staling and Spoilage Storing CHAPTER 26: GLUTEN FREE BREADS Slicing and Serving Gluten Free Ingredients FURTHER READING CHAPTER 27: BREAD MACHINE BREADS Lean Breads Enriched Breads Rye Breads Volume 4 Whole Grain Breads Recipes I FURTHER READING CHAPTER 20: LEAN BREADS French Lean Breads Sourdough Breads GLOSSARIES OF CULINARY AND TECHNICAL TERMS Country Style Breads SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT AND INGREDIENTS, REFERENCE TABLES Ancient Breads THE MODERNIST CUISINE TEAM, CONTRIBUTORS, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, Whole Wheat Breads STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURES AND BEST BETS TABLES, INDEX High Hydration Breads THE STORY OF THIS BOOK I was determined to tell the story of the role that the underappreciated and underpaid farmers play in our agricultural system. When I tell people what we’ve been working into nine languages. It’s fair to say it has had a big Starting around the 1920s (but at an increas- on since our last book, the reaction often goes impact on the culinary world. ing pace throughout the 1960s), bread became something like this: “Did you say 2,500 pages? Now I am excited to introduce Modernist Bread: an industrial product. Giant machines and fac- On bread?” The Art and Science. It’s just as disruptive, just as tories were cranking out millions of loaves of I’ll concede that at first blush, 2,642 pages comprehensive, just as visually appealing, and just bland, precisely uniform sandwich bread, and might seem a little over the top. But we’ve been as thought-provoking as its older sibling. In the people welcomed these snow-white loaves. By the here before. We got the same initial reaction space of five volumes plus a kitchen manual, we 1970s, though, both bread lovers and bread bak- when we were working on our first book, tell the story of one of the world’s most important ers were beginning to rebel, eventually building Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of foods in new and different ways. Through this what is today called the artisanal bread move- Cooking, which ran an encyclopedic 2,438 story, we hope to enlighten, delight, and inspire ment (page 128). In the United States, the search but also deeply appreciative of the artistry and pages. When it was released in 2011, people in creativity in others who love not only bread but for quality led to the breads of Europe—and in aesthetics of bread. We studied exhaustively (or the publishing industry told us that a nontradi- also the science, history, cultures, and personali- Europe, bakers turned to the past. at least until we were exhausted!). We researched tional $625 cookbook would never sell. ties behind it. The idea behind the artisanal bread movement ingredients and history, milling technologies and Well, Modernist Cuisine broke a lot of rules. Why focus on bread? Because it has so many of was a great one: bread lovers wanted to increase dough rheology, grain botany, bubble mechan- And to my great relief, that worked. More than the things that we love in a topic. Bread may seem the variety, flavor, and quality of bread beyond ics, and more. We talked to grain farmers, mill- 230,000 curious and passionate food lovers— simple, but in fact it is highly technological and the cheap industrial products that swamped ers, food historians, statisticians, and every great from home cooks to renowned chefs to staff at scientific—it’s actually a biotech product whose supermarket shelves. Going back to preindustrial bread baker we could find. Over time, we became educational institutions—decided that the book creation requires harnessing the power bread-baking practices and returning to small- even more convinced that our book could offer fit the right value equation. It won numerous of microorganisms that ferment. Making bread is scale methods historically used by village bakers something fresh and new. major food writing awards and has been translated so technique-intensive that small variations seemed like just the thing to do. We believe the idea of Modernist bread—bread in the method can make huge differences in the But it can’t possibly be true that all the best that looks to the future, not the past—should be outcome. There is a tremendous amount of skill ideas in bread baking have already been discov- celebrated. In these pages, you’ll find our con- involved, to the point that bread making can ered—creative bakers around the world have tributions to what we hope will become a move- be daunting to home bakers and professionals made some amazing new loaves. Science and ment. This movement isn’t just about new recipes, alike. During the baking process, bread’s sim- technology are not the enemies of great bread. though—it’s about the way we think of bread from ple ingredients go through such a mind-blowing The laws of nature govern baking just like they the ground up. transformation that the product that comes out of govern everything else in the world. Knowing For each of our key recipes, we developed a tra- the oven bears almost no resemblance to the flour, which laws affect your bread helps; understanding ditional version and a Modernist version. You can water, salt, and yeast that went in. That’s just cool. technology helps, too. follow only the traditional recipes and find much Focusing on bread has given us the opportu- When it began, the artisanal bread movement of value in this book—or you can branch out into nity to explore such wide-ranging scientific top- was so liberating: it freed consumers from insipid, our Modernist recipes to explore new ideas. Bet- ics as the structure of gluten and the physics of machine-made white sandwich bread by giving ter yet, use this book as a jumping-off point to ovens. It has given us a window into the minds them choices. But any belief system can become make new kinds of breads that no one has tried of the inventors and innovators who have made, stagnant if it is closed to new ideas. before. Whether you are a strict traditionalist or improved, and transformed this important staple This stagnancy is all the more troubling today, an avid Modernist, a home baker or an artisan over the course of thousands of years. Our focus in a world in which bread is under attack from baker or a restaurant chef, we hope that this book on bread has also allowed us to look closely at the the gluten-free trend and the low-carb movement. will open your eyes to the possibilities of invention evolution of cultures through the lens of a single Now more than ever, it’s vital to start unleash- and encourage different ways of thinking about food that has spanned so much of human history: ing the creative possibilities of bread. With all the bread. We believe this kind of disruption will even bread was the primary source of calories for the excitement around today’s innovative, modern help change the economics of bread. (We’d like to ancient Greeks and Romans and the Western civi- cuisine, it’s time to make bread more than just an see bread go the way of chocolate and wine, which lizations that followed. We also became intrigued afterthought. Why not have fun and explore what are sold in a wide range of quality levels and price by the evolution of our agricultural system. There the latest science can add to the bread we know points.) is currently a lot of nationwide and global concern and love? At the risk of sounding dramatic, bread In short, we believe the golden age of bread isn’t about this system, after all, and wheat is at its cen- must innovate to survive and thrive. some mythical past that we all should try to return ter. As the grandson of a Minnesota wheat farmer, We took an approach that is fiercely analytic to—the best days of bread are yet to come. 12 13 A LOOK INSIDE MODERNIST BREAD We spent over 4 years looking at bread from every angle. We devised experiments to test the limits of techniques, develop new recipes, investigate bakery lore, find the best ingredients and tools, and understand the science of bread making. We traveled around the world to speak to bakers, chefs, farmers, scientists, and historians and go behind the scenes at mills, ingredient companies, museums, and even the Svalbard seed bank in Norway—tasting bread at every stop along the way. And, of course, we baked tons of bread. Literally. Here’s a small sample of some of the discoveries, techniques, recipes, and discussions you’ll find in the five volumes of Modernist Bread. Historical Stuff Marking (and Marketing) Bread with Stamps Roman Bread Stamps Bread Through the Ages A Long History of No-Knead Bread New Techniques Our Rye Flour Revelation The Uses of Cold Proofing in a Wine Fridge Best Damn Gluten-free Bagel Canned bread High Bubble Count Pizza Dough Shaping Very Wet Doughs Canned Breads Debunking Dough CPR Does Pure Water Make for Better Bread? Weird Stuff in Starters Which is Better: Fresh or Aged Flour? Are Whole Grains Healthier for You? Discoveries The Largest Loaf 100% Rye Bread Bread is Lighter Than Whipped Cream How Much Payload Can Dough Hold? Supercharged Yeast Inside Look Crumbs for the Farmer The Great Autolyse Debate The Evolution of a Sourdough Fats: How High Can You Go? 1 Hi From ry sto BREAD THROUGH THE AGES When we read history books, we’re often learning about the looking at fancy breads, some of which appear to be enriched. big events of the past. But the more mundane facts of ordi- Still, the bread forms in all these works look very familiar. 17th century nary life aren’t always recorded. Some ancient and premodern Even the practice of serving bread swaddled in a napkin recipes have been preserved, but not many. So what was the dates back centuries. At medieval banquets, the server carried bread like? We researched paintings through the ages and from the lord’s bread and knife to the table in a decoratively folded around the world in order to find out what they looked like in napkin called a portpayne, or portpain. That way the bread the past. would not touch the server’s hands. There’s also a long Jewish A few artists, like Pieter Brueghel the Elder and his son, also tradition of wrapping a piece of matzo in a cloth and hiding it. named Pieter, painted scenes of ordinary people. Others Some say the wrapped afikomen symbolizes the way the Jews focused on royal scenes, so it’s reasonable to a ssume we’re carried their unleavened bread as they left Egypt. 11 1601 • Italy 15th century 16th century 17 1630 • France 20 1640 • Netherlands 9 16th century • Belgium 1 1467 • Belgium 3 1525 • Italy 5 1564 • Netherlands 7 1590 • Italy 14 1615 • Belgium 16 1620 • Spain 19 1635 • Netherlands 1460 1500 1550 1560 1570 1580 1590 1600 1610 1620 1630 1640 2 1475 • Spain 4 1530 • Belgium 6 1585 • Belgium 8 1594 • Italy 12 1606 • Italy 13 1606 • Belgium 18 1625 • Italy 15 1618 • Spain 10 16th century • Netherlands 16 VO LU M E 1 : H IS TO RY A N D F U N DA M E N TA L S HISTORY 17 er y 2 Fo crob om ak log i r r B io s M F Molds horse-drawn combines that sparks of static elec- Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, when bread tricity from the equipment set off explosions— goes “bad” (not merely stale), mold is to blame. more than 160 in 1915 alone. The invention of People are less tolerant of mold on food than they effective fungicides in the 1970s brought the dis- are of other kinds of microbial growth, for the ease under control in high-income nations, but the simple reason that whereas viral and most bacte- disease persists in regions where farmers cannot rial contamination is invisible, mold is easy to afford to treat their seeds. see. And, in most cases, mold stinks—literally. Other grains commonly used in baking are also Although bakers typically see mold as an enemy, vulnerable to fungal disease as they grow. Oats, many foods—from Stilton, Roquefort, and Brie rice, and corn are all susceptible to various kinds cheeses to soy sauce and citric acid—owe their of smut and to stunting diseases caused by molds existence to the transformative power of molds that destroy their roots or rot their stalks. Some kinds of mold fluoresce when illumi- (see page 174). nated by ultraviolet light. Molds are not a particular taxonomic branch S poiled B efore Baking of the fungal family tree; rather, they are one of Between harvest and milling, grain is typically the three main growth forms that fungi can take. stored in silos or warehouses, where fungi get Any species of fungus that, at a particular stage another shot at it. Once the plant matter is dead, a in its life cycle, weaves its hyphae filaments into a different set of molds—the saprophytes—can set fabric-like network (called a mycelium) is behav- in and start to break it down. The economic losses ing as a mold. caused by spoilage are significant and are one fac- People often think of mold as an infestation tor in the fluctuating prices of grains. But some that brings the shelf life of a fully prepared food— grain molds can also pose a food-safety problem or, even more commonly, the leftovers of a meal— for bakers because, under certain conditions, they to an end. But molds play important roles at every produce poisons called mycotoxins. More than stage of the food supply, starting in the field. Fungi 200 kinds of mycotoxins have been identified so cause nearly three-quarters of all crop diseases. far, and they contaminate a q uarter of food crops They inflict annual losses on farmers tallied in the globally, according to estimates by the Food and billions of dollars. In wheat farming, periodic out- Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. A galaxy of spores erupts from moldy bread when it is given a gentle tap. Molds breaks of several forms of fungal infections known The most dangerous of these compounds mold can produce toxins known as trichothecenes. citrinin, a mycotoxin linked to kidney disease. get around by producing tiny spores that as rusts can wipe out part or nearly all a farm’s are aflatoxins, which are made by the common One of these, called vomitoxin, is just as unpleas- Fortunately, ochratoxins and citrinin appear to be waft through the air. The spores produced yield. In recent years, rusts have damaged wheat yellow-green molds Aspergillus flavus and A. para- ant as it sounds. Ingesting a large amount of the quite rare in grains produced in the United States. by Puccinia graminis, which causes black crops throughout Asia, A ustralia, the Middle East, siticus. In high doses, aflatoxin B1 can cause liver toxin, which is also known as deoxynivalenol, or Unfortunately, mycotoxins are remarkably stem rust in wheat, can drift on the winds for more than 3,000 km / 1,860 mi, carry- North Africa, and the United States. Farmers have damage and immune problems. Aflatoxins are DON, causes the rapid onset of gastrointestinal heat resistant, and most can retain their poison- ing the disease from the Deep South of the bred rust-resistant strains of wheat, but the fungi also among the most potent carcinogens yet iden- distress and illness, headache, dizziness, and fever. ous effects even when cooked to 121^ / 250|— United States all the way through the Mid- Although fungicides have been have evolved new ways of attacking them. For- tified, at least in lab animals. In the United States, As with aflatoxins, scrupulous screening of grain well above the peak internal temperature in a fully west and up to C anada. Spore collectors effective at controlling wheat rusts, tunately, fungicides remain an effective, though the toxins most frequently ruin corn, nut, and pea- supplies has largely prevented human illness from baked loaf of bread. So the best protection against mounted on airplanes have shown that they can have damaging side effects airborne fungi are able to cross oceans, in some ecosystems. Fungicides expensive, way to halt rusts. nut crops after harvest. A robust testing system these mycotoxins in Europe and North America, them is to buy flour and grains from reputable, drifting on the winds from one continent have been implicated as a contrib- Stinking smut, also known as bunt, has been ensures that foods containing unsafe amounts of though the blight has claimed wheat crops from well-managed vendors who comply with all gov- to another. uting factor in bee colony collapse the bane of wheat farmers for centuries. This dis- mycotoxins are thrown out, but losses are so fre- North Dakota to North Carolina. In addition, ernment regulations on grain handling, storage, disorder, for example. ease, caused by fungi in the genus Tilletia, fills quent and severe in warmer climates that Aspergil- outbreaks have occurred in Asia and Africa. and testing. The rules are designed to ensure that The waterborne fungus Phytoph the kernels of the grain with black spores. As a lus effectively dictates where in the United States Several species of Aspergillus molds produce contaminants remain below levels established as thora infestans caused the Irish potato blight of 1845–1847 that— thresher cuts the grain down during the harvest, these crops can and cannot be grown economi- ochratoxins when they infect corn, barley, wheat, safe for human consumption. exacerbated by unconscionable the kernels burst, and black clouds of spores erupt cally. Unfortunately, there is no practical method oat, or rye. Ochratoxin A—secreted by species mismanagement on the part of and spread the disease across the field. Accord- yet for reliably protecting crops against contami- including A. niger, the same mold used to make B read G one Bad the government—led to famine and a diaspora that together ing to Don E. Mathre, emeritus professor in plant nation by Aspergillus molds, which are virtually citric acid—is known to cause kidney damage and Mold does terrible things to the flavor of breads, halved the population of Ireland sciences and plant pathology at Montana State ubiquitous. poses a cancer risk. Penicillium molds, which are and that’s no doubt one of the main reasons that (see page 110). University in Bozeman, stinking smut single- For wheat, barley, and rye, the main threat is usually thought of as helpful or innocuous (they people generally don’t get sick from eating moldy handedly compromised a fifth of the wheat crop scab, a head blight produced by Fusarium gra- are used, for example, to make penicillin and blue bread—bread gone bad is pretty easy to avoid. It Plasmopara viticola, a fungus that in Washington State in the early 20th century. minearum and other species in this genus. In addi- cheeses), are another source of ochratoxins. And helps, too, that few molds are able to infect healthy causes grapevine downy mildew, wiped out the vineyards of Europe The clouds of spores were so thick around the tion to reducing crop yields due to the disease, this both Aspergillus and Penicillium molds also secrete people. Some do, of course: most adults in the 1870s. 18 VO LU M E 1 : H IS TO RY A N D F U N DA M E N TA L S MICROBIOLOGY FOR BAKERS 19 En at a m e r nd 4 2 He Fro gy EVEN BETTER WHEN BROWNED The steamthat comes off bread as it toasts is invisible, but the hot water vapor often quickly condenses in the cooler kitchen air into visible wisps of fog. The surface of the slice must dry— which means the water in it must boil off into steam—before the bread can brown. As long as The best invention since sliced bread? Maybe not, but substantial moisture remains in the bread, the arriving heat goes into boiling that water rather the modern toaster can sure make sliced breads taste than raising the temperature of the solid part. When the water is mostly gone, the temperature can climb into the range, around 150^ / 300|, where browning gets going in earnest. better. Before Alan MacMasters invented the electric toaster in Scotland in the late 1890s—as one of the first uses of household electricity other than lighting, pre- White bread turns toasty brownas its temperature ceded only slightly by the electric kettle—unattended rises above 130^ / 265| or so, into the range where Maillard reactions—and also caramelization, for toasting had relied mostly on convective heating. Toast- sweet breads—transform sugars and proteins into ers for woodstoves tilted bread over a vented metal an array of aromatic and increasingly dark com- can; hot air p ouring through the vents washed over the pounds. The darker the shade, the less incoming radiation is reflected and the more the heat gets bread, browning it. But MacMasters’s idea of using a absorbed. This positive feedback mechanism, red-hot element, combined with the later addition by known in physics as the albedo effect, is one of the others of a pop-up spring and timer, transformed toast- reasons that toasting is tricky: the transformation proceeds slowly until darkening begins, and then ing into an exercise in irradiation. Greater convenience it accelerates, leaving a narrow window of time and reproducible results, however, came at a price: toast between too little toasted and too much. made by infrared heating is susceptible to a positive feedback effect, so it doesn’t brown as evenly as bread toasted by convection or conduction. For a practical guide to making perfect toast, see page 3·434. Radiative toastingtends to darken bread unevenly compared with toast made conduc- tively (on a griddle) or convectively by using hot Inventors have patented ideas for appliances that could air. Some parts of the bread inevitably contain monitor how toasted the bread is by using ionizing more moisture than others, so they are slow sensors—much like those in smoke detectors—to detect to dry out and darken. And the toaster’s wire some of the invisible particles that waft from the bread as cage and support elements block some of the it bakes. Those smart toasters might be able to adapt infrared rays, casting shadows that leave some automatically to bread slices of different colors, thick- spots on the slice slightly cooler than others. nesses, moisture levels, and starting temperatures. But cost These small differences get amplified as the may be an obstacle: years after the patents were filed, even hottest spots darken and the toasting high-end toasters still lack a sense of smell. accelerates. Red-hot heating elementsthrow off a little red light—and far greater amounts of infrared radiation—when a strong electrical current passes through them. The wires, typically made of a nickel–chromium alloy known as nichrome, can Controlling the degreeof toasting reach temperatures above 1,000^ / 1,830|, well into is nearly impossible to do precisely the range where radiation dominates heat transfer. Because with most toasters. There are nearly all the toasting work is done by radiation, not hot air, simply too many variations among toasters that have reflective interiors will be more efficient different breads—even different and toast the bread more evenly. slices taken from the same loaf on different days will vary—to predict how the bread will respond to radiative heating. The color, cut, Gravity takes its share of the breadas crumbs inevitably thickness, fat content, moisture fall to the bottom and, because of their high surface-to- content, starting temperature, volume ratio, soon char. Much of the appealing aroma of and ambient humidity all affect toasting bread typically comes as much from the crumbs the outcome. stuck in the machine as from the slice. Burnt crumbs don’t smell so nice, however, so it’s a good idea to empty the tray frequently. 20 VO LU M E 1 : H IS TO RY A N D F U N DA M E N TA L S M I C R HO EB AI OT LAONGDY EFNOERR G B AY K E R S 21 6 M From ea g Br akin d SURPRISING SCIENCE Bread Is Lighter Than Whipped Cream Density Comparison The heading above is surprising but true, and you can test mass is not evenly distributed: a crunchy baguette crust, g/cm3 it yourself: put 1 L of whipped cream on the left pan of a which resists cutting and chewing, is 50%–100% more dense balance scale and a 1 L brioche on the right. The scale will than the crumb. The crust is about as dense as pinewood 0 tip to the left. (and whipped cream), whereas the density of the crumb is The demonstration is hard to believe because it violates more like that of cork. our expectation that a foam should be lighter than a solid. But if the crust is as dense as whipped cream, why does sea sponge, 0.02 0.1 But bread is also a foam—it is just a set foam. The brioche’s crust feel heavier? The short answer is that the chemistry of crust is solid enough, but the crumb inside is mostly air. these two foams differs. To bite through bread (a set foam), sandwich bread, 0.23 French lean bread, 0.25 This simple comparison illustrates that the density of bread— you have to tear apart strong chemical bonds among adjacent that is, its mass divided by its volume—is less than that of almost molecules. But to eat whipped cream (a colloidal foam), you egg-white foam, 0.13 0.2 any other kind of food. Ciabatta, baguette, b rioche, sandwich merely have to push adjacent particles apart. balsa wood, 0.15 bread, and other common yeast breads typically have a den- Intuitively, you might expect that airier breads, such as sity of just 0.22–0.25 g/cm3. Whipped cream, by comparison, a baguette, are less dense than loaves that have a tighter 0.3 has a density of 0.49 g/cm3. A liter of whipped cream thus crumb, such as pumpernickel and other rye breads. And, weighs twice as much as a brioche of equal volume! in fact, that’s true, as the chart (at right) shows. Bread seems denser than it is in large part because its cork, 0.21 0.4 pine charcoal, 0.35 steamed bun, 0.40 brioche, 0.27 0.5 Whipped cream has a reputation for being light and airy, but it’s about twice as dense as a brioche. To demonstrate this using a scale, we baked a loaf apple, 0.46 0.6 of brioche in a 1 L container and carefully shaved off the extra bits that rose above the lip. Mean- proofed lean dough, 0.47 while, we filled a 1 L acetate-lined container with whipped cream, froze it, and then gently peeled off the acetate. whipped cream, 0.49 0.7 100 Ă rye, 0.58 0.8 red pine, 0.51 0.9 vollkornbrot, 0.71 1.0 olive oil, 0.92 1.1 wheat kernel, 1.25 1.2 pumpernickel, 1.09 22 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS MAKING BREAD 23 6 M From ea g Br akin d 1 2 12 11 13 14 3 4 17 3 15 16 18 1 5 6 BASICS 19 20 21 22 8 7 9 10 RECOMMENDED 23 NICE TO HAVE 27 28 30 32 33 24 25 26 29 31 24 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS MAKING BREAD 25 2 7 Gr rom s ain F THE HARVESTING PROCESS Farmers get just a few cents per pound of wheat that’s har- wheat. A combine can harvest 900 bushels of corn in an hour. vested, so they want to harvest economically. Combine har- The rolling hills of the Palouse region of Washington state vesters require large capital investments, but they’re essen- (pictured below) are prime wheat country, even though when tially efficient rolling factories that harvest and thresh the you think of wheat, you’re more likely to think of the Midwest. A combine harvester cuts the wheat and sucks it through a threshing mechanism that and more computer literacy. The job involves monitoring an onboard screen that does From the combine, the wheat is dumped into the grain cart. Some grain carts can hold Some farmers have local storage facilities where they can hold the grain until they can separates out the kernels and spits them into a holding tank while blowing the chaff everything from tracking engine performance to verifying that the threshing mecha- as many as 2,000 bushels. The work of harvesting requires team effort. During har- get the price they want. Others ship it directly to a local elevator, where it’s stored out the back of the machine. Today, a combine operator needs less farm know-how nism is operating properly. vest, enormous seed trucks are at the ready, waiting to be filled from the grain carts. temporarily before being transported to a larger facility or a mill. They look like big, lumbering machines, but they get the job done—once they’re filled, they speed the grain to its destination. Companies are developing robotic technology for many aspects of farming. Farmers in Japan have used small radio-controlled crop-dusting helicopters for years. 156 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS GRAINS 157 8 Flo rom ur F WHEAT ANATOMY WHAT IS FLOUR? Wheat is a type of grass that grows in long stalks, with b ristly apart, and its seeds would disperse with the wind. Spikes can also Before we get into the process of milling, we’ll start with some two parts. You get the bran and germ when you buy whole- heads. The bristly part is called the spike. It’s what helped the stick to the coats of animals, which would deliver them to new basics. Grain is made of three main parts: germ, bran, and grain flour. The anatomy of the wheat k ernel is discussed wild wheat plant propagate because the spike would break locations. And thus, wheat, like many grasses, spread. endosperm. The vast majority of flour on the market is made below. from the endosperm, which is softer and whiter than the other Head Awn Spikelet Whole kernel: botanists call this the caryopsis; in grocery stores, it might be called a wheat berry, but here we call it a wheat kernel. When we talk about whole wheat flour, this is what we’re talking about—whole wheat kernels that are milled, often in separate streams; recombined; and then bagged up for sale, including the germ, bran, and endosperm. You’re The awn i s the slender strand that getting the whole grain, with each of the three components in the same proportions as they extends from the seed. It’s what were found in the farmer’s field. Spike gives wheat its hairy appearance. Bran: during milling, the bran is removed from the whole grain. It can be sold separately, but it can also be mixed back in with the endosperm and germ to make whole wheat flour. The sharp edges of the bran, and its capacity for water absorption, are detrimental to loaf volume (see Why Does Bran Make Bread Dense? 2nd glume 1st glume The glumesact as husks that protect the seed. The caryopsisis the one-seeded fruit of the plant. Colloquially, it is often referred to as kernel, grain, or berry. Endosperm: pick up a bag of refined flour anywhere in the world, and you’re Caryopsis picking up a bag mostly filled with endosperm. That’s partly because grain itself is mostly endosperm. It’s also because the starchy endosperm creates the flour that appeals to consumers and bakers, so it’s the desired product of most mills. If you’re buying bread flour, enriched flour, high-gluten flour, or any kind of flour Brush other than that labeled “whole wheat” or “high-extraction,” the endosperm is what you’re getting. Leaf Endosperm Bran Stalk Germ: the germ is the embryo of the living grain. This part is often sepa- rated out in milling because the fat content in the germ makes the flour go rancid. Sometimes, it’s sold separately as wheat germ. Other times, it’s mixed back in with the rest of the flour to make whole wheat flour. Germ Germ Palea (upper hull) Lemma (lowerhull) Wheat’s germ is often processed separately from the rest of the grain (left and in close-up Wheat flour imaged by scanning Endosperm electron microscope (SEM). at center). The germ’s oil can also be extracted (right). 28 VOLUME 2: INGREDIENTS FLOUR 29 13 2 M rom ng F ixi STAND MIXER A horizontal hub on some stand The stand mixer is a small version of a planetary mixer mixers adds an extra degree of versatility. Power from the motor that can comfortably sit on any work surface, occupy- shaft can be delivered directly The more powerful the motor, t he better. Motors are rated ing minimal space. We recommend these mixers for through this port to juicers, pasta in watts (W) or horsepower (HP), with 1 HP = 746 W . But only makers, graters, slicers, and other about a third of the rated motor power actually makes it to the home use and small restaurant production. laborsaving gadgets. Although a bowl. A 1.3 HP mixer, for example, typically delivers around The pluses are clear: they’re comparatively eco- mixer doesn’t spin as fast as a food 0.44 HP to the food. The rest of the power is lost to heat and nomical; many small repair shops can fix broken parts processor, it can stand in for that the gearing system. As a result, the metal case surrounding the if needed; and they can perform various functions appliance on many low-speed jobs. motor can get uncomfortably hot after the motor has run for a while. besides mixing. Their manufacturers offer many at- tachments (sold separately) that can use the spinning A series of gears c onverts the horizontal motor to sheet pasta dough, grind meat, mill grains rotation of the motor shaft into a combination into flour, and chop vegetables; these a ttachments of rotation and revolution around a vertical A speed sensor m onitors the motor make the stand mixer a versatile tool. axis. This lower arrangement is called a shaft and transmits information planetary gear because the motion of the about the rate of rotation to the In addition to having the same mixing attachments beater shaft resembles the rotation and orbit control board. as planetary mixers (hook, paddle, and whip), stand of a planet around its star. mixers have a broad range of speed options, from very slow to very fast. The downside is that the m otors of these machines are often not powerful enough for some drier doughs, such as our bagel dough on The beater shaft i s the page 322, and the dough capacity is relatively limited. business end of the The latter limitation is acceptable if you’re making just mixer. Vertically spin- enough dough to use at home, but it is a shortcoming ning attachments such as a hook, paddle, or for bakers interested in large batches. These mixers whisk fit onto this pin tend to move around the table as they mix, so keep and lock in place against an eye on them or they may fall. (Some crafty bakers the raised button. A spring-loaded lever l ifts place a jar-lid gripper or damp towel underneath them the bowl and locks it into the proper position for mixing. to keep them from moving too much. We use clamps or a bungee cord to solidly anchor them.) A hook c an take much of the manual labor out of mixing to full gluten development. The hook works just fine on sticky doughs (although you may need to scrape down the sides of the bowl periodically). So the mixer can often complete mixing without adding flour, as you would have to do with hand mixing. The mixing bowl h as a large dimple on the bottom to prevent food from getting stuck, unmixed, in the center as the stirring attachment makes its orbit. Clearances between the bowl and stirring utensil are typically quite close, so a dented bowl can cause problems. Steel bowls are not as robust as they might seem; a fall to the floor can easily ruin one. Flat beater (paddle) Flex-edge beater Wire whisk The Ankarsrum mixer is not very common, but we like it for our gluten- The paddle is useful when there is too little dough for a hook attachment to free breads in particular and for mixing other paste doughs such as 100 Ă “catch” it, while the flex-edge beater scrapes the sides of the bowl. We some- rye breads. It has one arm that performs the mixing and another that times start mixing with the paddle and then switch to the hook after obtain- scrapes the bowl, making for a very efficient mix. Also, because the bowl ing a homogeneous mass. We also use the paddle for doughs that are made up itself is spinning, which translates to an open top unobstructed by the of mostly rye flour. The wire whisk is used to whip air into mixtures, such as the motor housing that most stand mixers have, the extra open space makes meringue used to garnish the Tarte Tropezzienne on page 288. it easy to pour ingredients into the bowl. 30 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT MIXING 31 ing nd 14 2 Sh iding m ap a v o Di Fr HOW TO Divide and Weigh Your Dough HOW TO Divide Dough for a Particular Shape This is the most common method used by home bakers as well as pro- of any storage container. When a settled dough is then turned out onto Beyond cutting your block of dough evenly, you should also decide example, if you want to shape round loaves (boules), divide your dough fessionals because it’s also the most economical in terms of equipment; a lightly floured surface, it maintains the shape of its container. The what shape you’ll be forming it into. It helps to cut a preliminary form as illustrated in (a) rather than dividing it into long rectangles as illus- it requires only a bench knife and a scale. As your output increases, the square or rectangular shape also makes it easier to divide the dough into that will make it easier to shape the dough for a particular loaf. For trated in (b). process of dividing and weighing dough takes more time, which means equal pieces. It is important for the dough to be relatively flat and uni- that precision and efficiency become all the more important. We f ocus formly thick—large variations in either aspect will make the dough hard on dividing dough by hand in this particular section, but we discuss to divide evenly. If the rectangle is uneven in thickness, fold it over onto various machines used for dividing dough on page 139. We prefer to use a square or rectangular tub for storing dough itself. This is the best way of evening out the thickness of a dough. The part of the dough that is in contact with the work surface is the smooth- a b because once the dough settles into the container, it will generally est (the most uniform). Keep this smooth side facing the worktable at take the tub’s shape, unless it’s a stiff dough with low hydration. (Typi- all times until you are ready to preshape, at which time you will turn the cally, a dough of 70% hydration or higher will settle into the shape of dough over. You’ll want to work with a clean, sharp bench knife because the tub.) For easier handling, we also suggest lightly oiling the inside it will cut your dough rather than tear it. Have your scale handy. 1 ecide beforehand about the type of loaves D you’ll ultimately shape and bake—and about the number of loaves you can make in sync with the recipe. 2 ransfer the dough from the tub onto a T lightly floured surface, handling it gently so that it retains the shape of its container. 3 entally assess how you’ll divide the dough M as shown by the guidelines at right. Ideally, the closer you can get to cutting square pieces of dough, the better off you’ll be for shaping round loaves. Cutting long, narrow shapes would not work well for making boules but is best for making long, narrow loaves such as ciabatta. 4 se your bench knife to cut cleanly through the dough, all the way to the work surface. (Don’t U worry if the dough degasses when you cut through it; that’s not uncommon.) c d 5 I mmediately weigh the cut piece of dough as you go to make sure it is the correct weight before cutting a new piece. Doing so can help reduce the number of hand movements and also make the 6 eserve one piece of dough that you can R “harvest” from, or use it to make extra process of dividing dough more efficient. pieces of dough you can add to the main piece if needed. Don’t stack the extra pieces on top of each other on the main dough; spread them out. For oval loaves (bâtards), you’ll want to cut the dough into short rectangles, For rolls, divide the dough into long, even strips, as illustrated in (b). Then as shown in (c). cut the long strips into small squares, as shown in (d). Rolls are typically 7 eep track of the order in which you cut and K weigh all the pieces of dough. You’ll eventu- 8 over your dough with a clean plastic bag C or tarp so that it doesn’t form a skin. 9 L et your dough rest, covered, for 10–15 min- utes before you preshape it. small in terms of size and, therefore, weight. For baguettes, you will also need squares, albeit larger ones than those used for rolls. ally want to shape each piece in the order that you cut it. 32 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT DIVIDING AND SHAPING 33 g f in al rom oo Fin F Pr HOW BUBBLES GROW IN DOUGH Mixing infuses thousands of tiny air bubbles into dough (see to grow during the initial stages of baking; they are what power page 82). As the dough ferments and proofs, the b ubbles the oven spring that enlarges the loaf. The pressurized bread expand. Each bubble behaves like a little gluten balloon that then sets from the outside in. While the crust forms, reinforc- inflates as gases of several kinds seep into the interior and then ing the final shape of the loaf, the pressure in each bubble rises expand in response to the gas pressure. The bubbles continue to the bursting point. Wheat dough rises so effectivelybecause it contains gluten. Gluten is molecules yet identified. More compact gliadin proteins allow the an elastic, viscous aggregate composed of several different kinds of dough to flow like a fluid. The ratio of gliadins to glutenins in the flour proteins, most notably glutenins and gliadins. The longer glutenin has significant impact on the handling and rising characteristics of the pieces link up to each other via disulfide bonds to form strong, stretchy dough, but it varies from among varieties of wheat and is difficult to polymers. These interlinked strands are among the largest protein measure or control. Disulfide bond Glutenin Gas bubble The scanning electron microscope (SEM) gives a microscopic look at a stretched piece of French lean dough. Oval granules of starch (colored purple) are trapped within the gluten net- Gluten Gliadin work. For more on the inner workings of the SEM, see Electrons Reveal More Details. Gases Starch granule A blend of gases i nflates each bubble during proofing. Just after CO2 mixing, the bubbles mainly contain humid air, O2 which includes nitrogen (N2), oxygen (O2), carbon Ethanol (C 2 H 6O) dioxide (CO2), and water vapor (H2O). Fermenting yeast add ethanol (C 2H6O) N2 H2O and lots more CO2 to the mix. The heat of baking boils water into steam, drives dissolved gases out of solution, and causes all these gases to expand. Wheat bread is more like bubble wrapthan like beer foam. Bubble wrap can support a lot of weight without popping because the plastic in the bubble walls is both strong and Ethanol stretchy. The same is true of gluten, as illustrated by the experiment shown above. After proofing 250 g / 9 oz loaves of dough, we put metal plates weighing up to 2 kg / 4.41 lb on the H2O loaves, baked them, and then mea- sured the volumes of the resulting breads. Amazingly, the weights hardly made a dent! Even the loaf carrying CO2 2 kg / 4.41 lb on top reached 60% of normal volume. Bubbles can grow large in wheat bread (left), thanks to its high gluten content. Rye bread (center) contains practically no gluten, so it traps less gas and has a correspondingly tighter crumb. And in gluten-free bread (right), other ingredients, such as hydrocolloids, are typically added to retain gas—but so far none can match the stretchiness of gluten. 34 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT FINAL PROOFING 35 ing d 16 2 Fin ring m ish an o o Sc Fr HOW TO Score a Baguette THE BAGUETTE SCORE UP CLOSE A baguette is one of the most challenging shapes to score. You have into that many sections. For example, if you plan to make five cuts, There’s wisdom in the adage that a picture is worth a thousand words. Describ- less surface area to work with because most of the required cuts have mentally divide the dough into six equal parts (see top photo below). ing how to cut something doesn’t necessarily create a clear and immediate to be made along a narrow strip, but the same rules apply: scoring Be sure to make your cuts in the middle third of the dough, width- impression, and the notion of scoring bread can be complicated for those who needs to be deliberate (quick and assertive) and to the same depth. wise. Practice, as they say, makes perfect, but when it comes to It’s also important that the score lines don’t overlap too much (about scoring b aguettes, even the most seasoned bakers will falter now have limited experience with this step. In the hope of clarifying the p rocess, 1.25 cm / ½ in is enough). Decide on the number of scores you wish and then, whether the challenge is the angle, the depth, or the over- we turned to one of the visual techniques we’re known for: we took proofed to make, add one to that number, and then mentally divide the dough lap and spacing. baguette dough, froze it, and, using a band saw, cut it in half to clearly detail the desired scoring angle. Problem:This cut is practically straight down, and it’s too shallow (3 mm / Ć in), which will result in minimal ear formation. 1 Mentally divide the dough lengthwise, and then visualize performing the desired number of cuts within the middle third. Some bakers employ the nifty trick of letting proofed dough sit uncov- ered in the refrigerator for about Note the 45° angleof the 30–45 minutes. This allows the blade and the depth of surface to form a skin, which a blade the cut (6 mm / ¼ in). can easily and cleanly cut through. 2 core the bread, overlapping the cuts slightly; cuts should be the same length, the same angle, S and 6 mm / ¼ in deep. 3 E venly space the cuts along the center of the dough’s surface. As the water within the doughbecomes steam, the temperature rises in and around the loaf. The steam finds the path of least resistance outward, which THE NUMBER OF will be toward the closest score. Baguette Scores Thanks to oven spring, t he pockets of carbon dioxide and water vapor within proofed dough will enlarge Baguettes typically have five scores, but who decided on as the dough bakes. This bubble expansion creates the final that number? Why not one, three, or even seven? As these crumb, which is typically things often happen, there’s a “bound by tradition” reason more open than for the count but no practical purpose cited. In fact, pick a the bubbles in unbaked dough. number from one to four—however many cuts you make, fewer than five is more efficient because scoring takes less time. A lthough making a single score is the most practical approach, we’ve also bought into the five-score tradition for aesthetic reasons. But there’s no rule—at least not one that’s enforced—that says a baguette must have five scores to be called a baguette. From left to right: five-score baguette, classic épi, one-sided epi, and three-score baguette. Cutting the dough into an epi shape will result in more crust surface area. The crust-to- For more on the trends in baguette shaping crumb ratio for an epi is even more than for a typically scored baguette, whether the in Paris, see page 154. baguette has one, three, or five scores. 36 VOLUME 3: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT SCORING AND FINISHING 37 OUR RECIPE CHAPTERS We’ve categorized hundreds of breads and placed them into the recipe chapters shown below. We also organized the breads into family trees. LEAN BREADS French Lean Bread Sourdough Ancient Grain 10o% Whole Country-Style High Hydration Bread Wheat Bread Bread ENRICHED BREADS RYE BREADS Brioche Sandwich Bread Challah High-Ryes Farmer’s Bread FLAT BREADS BRICK-LIKE BREADS Crackers Injera Dosa Pumpernickel Vollkornbrot Whole Grain Loaf Inflated Breads Naan Focaccia Pizza GLUTEN-FREE BREADS BREAD-MACHINE BAGELS, PRETZELS, BAO BREADS Gluten-Free Bread Machine Bagels Pretzels Steamed Buns MAKING BREAD 39 ds 20 an om ea Le Fr Br ingredient variation GENERAL DIRECTIONS TIME WALNUT BREAD PROCEDURE NOTES active / inactive MIX by hand* mix A to a shaggy mass; autolyse 30 min; add B, and mix until see Hand Mixing Options, 5 min / 30 min It’s not too common for French bakers to put inclusions in their peel them or fold them in during the bulk fermentation process homogenous page TK breads, though this one—often offered with cheese courses—is a as described in the hand mix method (note that it can be tricky to by machine* mix A to a shaggy mass; on low speed; autolyse 30 min; add B, see Country-style Breads 38–41 min frequent exception. If you machine-mix the walnuts into the dough, evenly incorporate the nut pieces). and mix to medium gluten development; add C, and mix on low Machine Mixing Options, however, the skin may impart a purple tinge. Alternatively, you can speed until fully incorporated page TK BULK FERMENT by hand* 4 h total; 6 folds (one every 30 min after the first hour, 30 min rest see Hand Mixing, page TK 5 min / 4 h after final fold); after the first fold, add C; mix with your hands see Gluten Development, TOTAL TIME DDT DIFFICULTY OVENS YIELD / SHAPES 4·114 using a squeeze, pull, and fold-over motion; check for full gluten page TK development using windowpane test Active 27 min 24–26^ / Easy: by machine* 2½ h total; 2 folds (1 fold every hour after the first hour), 30 min see How to Perform a Four- 5 min / 2½ h Inactive 20 h 31 min 75–78| all aspects Deck Home Convection Combi 1 lg boule or bâtard 2 sm boules or bâtards 13 rolls rest after final fold; check for full gluten development using the Edge Fold, page TK and Glu- windowpane test ten Development, page TK DIVIDE/SHAPE divide lg boule/bâtard sm boule/bâtard roll miche see How to Divide Your 0–7 min do not divide 500 g 75 g do not divide Dough, page TK INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă NET CONTENTS preshape boule/bâtard boule/bâtard boule boule page TK 1–7 min A Water 385 g 1¾ cups 75.49 Ingredients Weight Ă rest 20 min 20 min 20 min 20 min 20 min Liquid levain, mature 180 g ¾ cup + 1 Tbsp 35.29 Bread flour 455 g 75.83 see page TK shape boule/bâtard boule/bâtard roll boule 1–7 min Medium rye flour 145 g 24.17 Bread flour 365 g 2¾ cups 71.57 FINAL PROOF 13^ / 55| 14 h 14 h n/a 14 h see page TK for proofing times 12–16 h Water 475 g 79.17 Medium rye flour 145 g 1 cup 28.43 for rolls Walnuts 50 g 8.33 4^ / 39| 12–16 h 12–16 h n/a 12–16 h see Final Proofing Methods, Wheat bran, toasted 45 g ¾ cup 8.82 Wheat bran 45 g 7.50 page TK, and Calling Proof, B Fine salt 12 g 2¼ tsp 2.12 page TK; see page TK for Salt 12 g 2 C Walnuts, coarsely 50 g ½ cup 9.80 proofing times for rolls chopped and toasted SCORE for scoring options, see page TK 30 s–1 min Yield 1.14 kg Multiply this recipe by two for a miche. BAKE see the Country-style Breads Baking Times and Temperatures table, page TK 15 min–1 hr For salt, flours, and other notes, see page TK. For notes on substitutions, see page TK. TOTAL TIME *choose by hand or machine by hand 32 min / 21 h 50 min by machine 27 min / 20 h 31 min Why does the dough turn purple? Walnut skin contains an antioxidant called DPPH (2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) that has You can substitute other nuts for the walnuts, such as pecans, hazelnuts, or almonds. Some bakers add cranberries, a purple hue. When you agitate the too, which is a classic pairing with walnuts. If you would like to add cranberries, use 50 g / 1.76 oz / 9.80 Ă. skin, the antioxidant turns the You can also shape this dough into a baguette: divide the dough into three 330 g pieces, then see instructions for dough purple. shaping baguettes, page TK. For baking instructions, see page TK. When mixing by hand, you may need to perform more folds and lengthen bulk fermentation time to fully develop the gluten, especially when using inclusions. Though walnuts aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, they add a textural com- ponent and a savory meatiness to bread. Their aroma is attributed to a combination of molecules derived from their oil. However, they are also high in polyunsaturated lin- oleic acid, a factor that makes them prone to rancidity. Because of this, walnuts should always be stored in the freezer. 1 104 4 VVOOL LUUMMEE 44: : RREECCI IPPEESS I D I V I DLLIENEAGANNABNBRRDEEASADHDSA P I N G 1 4 1 51 ds 26 20 an om ea Le Fr Br ingredient variation BANH MI ROLLS FILONE Banh mi is one echo of the French colonization of Vietnam. The term translates liter- ally as “wheat bread” and refers to a baguette-like loaf or smaller roll that has a slightly The filone is another Italian bread that is sometimes compared with the baguette, softer crust and tighter crumb than French baguettes. Banh mi has also become syn- though as with the pane francese (see page TK), the dough is in the high-hydration onymous with a sandwich, made on these loaves, of pickled vegetables, cilantro sprigs, spectrum so has more rustic character than the baguette. Filone loaves are often a bit fresh chilies, and meat or tofu. shorter and broader than the slender French loaf. This dough uses protein-rich durum flour, which contributes its distinctive flavor and yellowish hue to the bread. TOTAL TIME DDT DIFFICULTY OVENS YIELD / SHAPES TOTAL TIME DDT DIFFICULTY OVENS YIELD / SHAPES Active 35 min 24–26^ / Easy: Advanced: Inactive 3 h 48 min 75–78| mixing shaping Deck Combi Convection Home 4 baguette rolls Active 35 min 24–26^ / Easy: Advanced: 3 baguettes Inactive 4 h 54 min 75–78| dough shaping (baguette) Deck Combi Convection Home or short baguettes 4 ficelles INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă NET CONTENTS A Water 345 g 1½ cup 57.50 Ingredients Weight Ă INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă NET CONTENTS Instant dry yeast, osmotolerant 7 g 2½ tsp 1.17 Flour 600 g 100 For the Poolish Ingredients Weight Ă B Bread flour 600 g 4½ cups 100 Water 345 g 57.50 Bread flour 170 g 1¼ cups 100 Bread flour 485 g 84.26 Sugar 20 g 2 tsp 3.33 Sugar 20 g 3.33 Water 170 g ¾ cup 100 Durum flour 85 g 15.74 C Fine salt 6 g 1Ć tsp 1 Fat 100 g 16.67 Instant dry yeast 0.17 g Ċ tsp 0.10 Water 430 g 75.44 D Shortening or lard, melted and 100 g ½ cup 16.67 Yeast 7 g 1.17 For the Dough Salt 11.00 g 1.93 cooled Salt 6 g 1 A Water 260 g 1¼ cups 65 Yeast 3.17 g 0.55 Yield 1.00 kg Instant dry yeast 3 g 1Ć tsp 0.75 For salt, flours, and other notes, see page TK. For notes on substitutions, see page TK. B Bread flour 315 g 2Ą cups 78.75 GENERAL DIRECTIONS TIME Poolish 340 g all from above 85 PROCEDURE NOTES active / inactive Durum flour 85 g ½ cup 21.25 MIX by hand* mix A to dissolve the yeast; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; see How to Mix in a Tub, 10–12 min / 30 min C Fine salt 11 g 2 tsp 2.75 (choose by hand or autolyse 30 min; add C and mix to low gluten development; page TK Yield 1.00 kg machine) pour D in and mix to full gluten development by machine* mix A to dissolve the yeast; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; see French Lean Bread 36–38 min GENERAL DIRECTIONS TIME autolyse 30 min; add C and mix to low gluten development; Machine Mixing Options, pour D in and mix on medium speed to full gluten development page TK PROCEDURE NOTES active / inactive BULK FERMENT 1 h; book fold after the first 30 min see How to Perform a 5 min / 1 h PREP preferment mix the poolish 12 h before using page TK 12 h Four-Edge Fold, page TK MIX by hand* dissolve A; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; autolyse 20– see How to Mix in a Tub, 5 min / 20–30 min DIVIDE/SHAPE divide baguette see How to Divide Your 5–7 min (choose by hand or 30 minutes; add C, and mix until homogenous page TK machine) 250 g Dough, page TK by machine* dissolve A; add B and mix to a shaggy mass; autolyse 20– see French Lean Bread 38–44 min 30 minutes; add C, and mix to medium gluten development Machine Mixing Options, preshape baguette see page TK 5–7 min page TK rest 15–20 min 15–20 min BULK FERMENT by hand* 3½ h total; 3 folds (1 fold every hour after the first hour), 30 min see How to Perform a 5 min / 3½ h shape 20 cm / 8 in baguette 5–7 min rest after final fold; check for full gluten development Four-Edge Fold, page TK FINAL PROOF 29^ / 85| 30–45 min see Final Proofing 30 min–1½ h by machine* 2 h total; 2 folds (1 fold every hour after the first hour), 30 min and Gluten Develop- 5 min / 2 h Methods, page TK, and 21^ / 70| 1–1½ h rest after final fold ment, page TK Calling Proof, page TK DIVIDE/SHAPE divide baguette/short baguette ficelle see How to Divide Your 3–5 min SCORE chill the dough uncovered for 10 min; single score down the center 30 s–1 min 350 g 250 g Dough, page TK BAKE bake to an internal temperature of 90–93^ / 195–200|; crisp crust requires steam 10–20 min preshape baguette baguette see page TK 3–5 min TOTAL TIME *choose by hand or machine by hand 39 min / 3 h 40 min rest 20 min 20 min 20 min by machine 35 min / 3 h 48 min shape baguette ficelle 3–5 min FINAL PROOF 27^ / 80| 45 min–1 h 30–45 min see Final Proofing 30 min–1½ h Our version of banh mi is soft crumbed and crispy crusted, just like all the We highly recommend mixing this dough with a machine rather than by 65% RH Methods, page TK, and bahn mi we have tasted. It is hard to tell this bread apart from the Mexican hand as it is a rather firm dough and you must achieve full gluten develop- 21^ / 70| 1–1½ h 45 min–1 h Calling Proof, page TK bolillo (pronounced “bo-lee-yo”) that is used for making the classic Mexican ment. Doing so by hand is time-consuming. If you use an 8 qt stand mixer, SCORE single score down the center; see Scoring, page TK 30 s–1 m sandwich called a torta. In fact, we would suggest using them for the same we recommend doubling this recipe so there is enough dough for the mixer BAKE for baking details, see French Lean Bread Baking Times and Temperatures, page TK; crisp 10–20 m purpose. to catch all the ingredients. crust requires steam TOTAL TIME *choose by hand or machine by hand 26 min / 6 h 10 min by machine 35 min / 4 h 54 min 52 4 V O L U M E 4 : R E C I P E SI LEAN BREADS 53 4 ds 26 20 an om ea Le Fr Br SOURDOUGH WITH FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PUREES These variations each use a different puree, with an adjusted INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă amount of water (relative to the amount of water the puree Bread flour 480 g 3¼ cups 100 provides), and an inclusion such as corn kernels or chocolate Fruit or vegetable puree X X X chips for added flavor and texture. The purees are added to the Water Y Y Y water portion of the dough and mixed according to the Sour- Liquid levain, mature 195 g ¾ cup 40.63 see page TK dough master recipe (see page TK). The inclusions are added Diastatic malt powder* 1 g ½ tsp 0.21 as per the mixing instructions in the Black Currant and Mar- Fine salt 12 g 2¼ tsp 2.41 cona Almond Sourdough on page TK. Inclusion Z Z Z For salt, flours, and other notes, see page TK. For notes on substitutions, see page TK. *Optional: Diastatic malt powder (DMP) is recommended if you are cold-proofing your dough for more than 12 hours. For more on DMP, see page TK. Cherry Pie and Chocolate Chip Sourdough INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă Hominy and Mole Sourdough X Cherry pie filling (canned)* 145 g ą cup** 30.20 INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă Y Water 215 g 1 cup 44.79 X Hominy, canned, solids 190 g 2½ cups** 39.53 Z Chocolate chips, bake proof*** 100 g ą cup 20.83 drained* *Puree the pie filling whole in a blender. You can substitute blueberry pie filling or apple Huitlacoche and Yellow Corn Sourdough Y Water 165 g ¾ cup 34.37 pie filling. **Before pureeing Z Mole paste*** 30 g 2 Tbsp 6.25 INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă ***See Resources, page TK; add after the dough has reached medium gluten development. * Puree the hominy in a blender to a smooth paste. If the hominy isn’t pureeing easily, X Huitlacoche* 100 g ½ cup** 20.83 add some water from the recipe to the blender. Y Water 235 g 1 cup 48.95 **Before pureeing ***Mole paste can be found in most specialty Mexican grocery stores or online. Z Yellow corn (whole kernels, fro- 70 g Ą cup 14.58 Pistachio Sourdough See Resources, page TK. Dissolve into the water portion of the dough. zen or fresh)*** *Huitlacoche is not readily available at many grocery stores, but it is likely you will find INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă prepared cans or jars of it in specialty Mexican grocery stores; if this is how you find it, do not drain the liquid. Puree the contents of the jar in a blender until smooth (canned X Pistachio paste* 100 g ½ cup 20.83 Huitlacoche is already seasoned and is sometimes spicy). Huitlacoche is also avail- Y Water 315 g 1Ą cup 65.62 able frozen. Blend 70 g of the puree with 30 g of water in a blender until smooth. See Z Toasted pistachios** 100 g ¾ cup 20.83 Resources, page TK. **Before pureeing *See Resources, page TK. Pistachio paste contains no water. Note that this much fat puts ***Add the corn after the dough has reached medium gluten development. this sourdough in enriched dough territory. **See page TK on how to toast nuts; add after the dough has reached medium gluten development. Aji Amarillo and Roasted Purple Potato Sourdough INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă Bosc Pear and Toasted Coconut Sourdough X Aji amarilo, canned, solids 145 g ½ cup + 30.20 drained* 2 Tbsp** INGREDIENTS WEIGHT VOLUME Ă Y Water 200 g ¾ cup + 3 Tbsp 41.66 X Pears* 100 g ½ cup** 20.83 Z Roasted purple potatoes*** 100 g ¾ cup 20.83 Y Water 235 g 1 cup + 3 Tbsp 41.66 * Puree the aji amarillo in a blender to a smooth paste. If the aji amarillo isn’t pureeing easily, add some water from the recipe to the blender. Aji can be found in most specialty Z Toasted dried coconut 100 g 1¼ cup 20.83 Latin American grocery stores or online. See Resources, page TK. flakes*** **Before pureeing *You can use fresh pears for this (make sure they are ripe). We prefer Bosc pears for this ***See procedure for roasting potatoes, page TK; add after the dough has reached recipe, but you can use any variety that you like. You will need to peel and core the pears, medium gluten development. and then puree them with the water amount in the recipe. You can also use canned pears (strain the pears; do not use the syrup) or store-bought pear purees. **Before pureeing Huitlacoche and Yellow Corn Sourdough ***Use unsweetened coconut; add after the dough has reached medium gluten development. Pistachio Butter and Toasted Pistachio 7 24 4 V O L U M E 4 : R E C I P E SI LEAN BREADS 75 4 3 PRINT EDITIONS OF HOW TO ORDER OUR CURRENT TITLES MODERNIST BREAD Please quote the following latin america Germany & Austria LKG mbH Japan Grantham Book Services information: ISBN, title, Mexico T + 49 34206 65 106 Customer Service Pedro Martin Caro quantity, retail price, name, F + 49 34 206 65 1767 United Kingdom
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