Mammut Seilfibel E Web 11129

CHF 5.— Euro 3.50 $ 3.— Test und Normen ist einfach erklärt.photo: Thomas Ulrich CONTENT Mammut is one of the world’s leading manu­ fac turers of high quality mountaineering equipment. Genau so wichtig ist die Information über die korrekte Anwendung unserer Produkte und die Aufklärung über mögliche Gefahren. HaNdliNg Practical Tips 16 HaNdliNg damagE Avoiding rope damage 22 Life span – time to replace 26 damagE Your Mammut Team. shoes. Rucksäcke und Schlafsäcke bis hin zu Klettergurten. Mammut products range from clothing. Das Mammut Sortiment reicht von Bekleidung über Schuhe. climbing hardgoods and ropes. Kletterhartware und Seilen. TEsTs Standard test requirements 27 What is tested 28 TEsTs glOssary A . construction. tests and standards are simply explained. Techni­ sches Wissen zu Material. Nur wenn unsere Kun­ den zufrieden sind. and pro­ perly care for and store your gear. Deshalb haben wir diese Broschüre für Sie erstellt. sind wir es auch. We are only satisfied when our custo­ mers are satisfied.Z 32 g l O s s a ry Foto: Thomas Ulrich Foto: Thomas Ulrich PurCHasiNg TiPs PurCHasiNg TiPs Which is the right rope 10 What do I need my rope for 12 What types of rope are there 14 QualiTy QualiTy Swiss Quality 2 Mammut Responsibility 4 «Lap Coiled» – Tangle free ropes 5 Where the difference lies 6 Ihr Mammut­Team Doch unsere Vorstellung von Kundenorientie­ rung endet nicht mit der Herstellung des best­ möglichen Produktes. get the most out of the equipment you buy. Seit fast 150 Jahren sind Mammut Seile Paradebeispiele für unseren kompromisslo­ sen Qualitätsanspruch bei der Herstellung von Bergsportausrüstung. all technical terms marked with this can be looked up in the glossary symbol starting on page 32. . Accurate technical information is just as important. zur richtigen Pflege und Anwendung in der Praxis – für den optimalen Nutzen des hochwertigen Produktes. We’ve created this brochure to help you make informed purchases. können alle so markierten Fachbegriffe im Lexikon ab Seite 32 nachge­ schlagen werden. So that this information is even easier to under­ stand. Übrigens: Damit die Informationen noch leichter ver­ ständlich werden. For almost 150 years Mammut ropes have exemplified uncompromising quality stan­ dards. Technical information about materials. Mit zahlreichen Tipps zum Kauf. Konstruktion. Mammut ist einer der weltweit führenden Komplettanbieter von hochwertiger Bergsport­ ausrüstung. Our concept of customer service doesn’t end with the manufacture of a top product. backpacks and sleeping bags to climbing harnesses. but by the optimally balanced sum of all its performance characteristics. In Mam­ mut’s test lab and drop tower every single production batch is tested for all relevant specifications to maintain consistent perfor­ mance standards. and we regularly test the performance of our ropes on our in­house drop test tower. which holds that an outstanding rope is not distinguished by a single outstanding characteristic. Mammut uses high quality Polyamide 6 (Nylon) filament yarns.SwiSS Quality 2·3 Balanced Rope Concept The manufacture of a rope is always a com­ promise between a high number of standard falls and low weight. 2 Meter by meter. if lined up end to end. all our ropes are manufactured in Switzerland. 2 Several yarns are spun together to make a twine. but not least. Mountain guides from the alpine federation training teams. mercilessly test Mammut ropes in demanding conditions before a new rope goes on sale. our mountain crazed employees. 3 3 4 5 Mammut’s drop test apparatus Quality those who trust their lives to Mammut ropes justifiably expect the highest quality. we carefully monitor our ropes’ real­world performance. we are fully committed to meeting this expectation. A number of these strands form the core of the rope. For years Mammut has pursued the philosophy of the Balanced Rope. 4 The sheath twines are braided around the core strands on the braiding machine. Rope Production 1 . low impact force and reduced elongation. In the next stage the twines are coated and thermally shrunk. would encircle the globe once. 1 Every Mammut rope is manufactured in Switzerland. A Quality Management System in accor­ ISO 9001 standards guar­ dance with antees exceptional quality in every rope. Three twines are then combined to form a strand. we check electronically for any irregularities. Every day Mammut processes a quantity of polyamide fibers that. In product development work. professional and top climb­ ers and last. 5 Every single meter of rope is checked electronically for any inconsistency. Our ropes fulfil the strictest standard requirements. giving perform­ ance reserves that far exceed those required. By helping to build a sys­ tem of greenhouses and small­scale hydro­ electric generators. you can simply open your pack. a seven­axis programmable robot arm lays the rope in a figure eight form.MaMMut RESPONSiBility the Mammut Sports group is conscious of its environmental obligations and does as much as it practically can to move towards sustainability. . A neutral energy balance means that greenhouse gas emissions that occur during manufacturing and sales of our ropes are offset via myclimate – The Climate Pro­ tection Partnership. Safety marking and strapping of the finished rope are integrated into the automated coil­ ing process. growing season lasts just three months.mammut. it was necessary to very care­ fully unroll a new rope. ‹ Solar greenhouse in Ladakh. the renowned Mammut quality is guaranteed. Ropes up to 100m long can be coiled in this way without introducing a twist. When a rope has tangles. tangles in the rope are a hindrance and can be dangerous as they make handling difficult. For lead climbing. Additional information: www. cold winter. The technique is not easy to learn and must be done correctly to prevent tangles. tie in and climb! ‹ The lap coiling machine in action. Mammut ropes are climate neutral Within the scope of Mammut Sports Group‘s environmental protection activities. Mammut ropes have additional safety and comfort advantages. greatly reducing the amount of fuel burned to supply this remote area during the long. our emissions are compensated for by a project in the Indian Himalayas. To be more precise. where in the high altitude Ladakh region. « l a P C O i l i N g » – ta N g l E f R E E R O P E S 4·5 a further innovation of the Mammut Rope factory is the «lap Coiled» coiling technology. Visit www. in order to keep it from becom­ ing twisted. North India. we guarantee a neutral energy balance for our ropes. Quality Up until now. top roping and abseiling (rapelling). thanks to the first fully automatic «lap Coiled» rope packing machine. rather than simply uncoiling it. the uncoiling process no longer introduces the twisting that leads to tangles. Now. and there is very little agricultural land available. its endeavors include support for a fascinating environmental and social improvement project in Kyrgysztan. Due to the multiple stage qual­ ity control steps.ch/responsibility for more details.org The heart of the new machine is a new tech­ nique for coiling the rope. the improvement of codes of conduct. and moves to make its rope-production climate neutral (see below).myclimate. the adoption of environmentally benign materials. Switzerland. participation in a public transport initiative at its headquarters in Seon. an international initia­ tive with its roots in Switzerland and one of the Leading emissions–compensation organizations. Instead of coiling it as in the past. it is no longer necessary to fly in as much food. Thanks to the new «Lap Coiled» technique in the production. they must be worked out by hang­ ing the rope and allowing the rope to untwist naturally. is uniformly distribfilament. uted through each individual thereby optimising performance.wHErE THE diffErENCE liEs 6·7 COaTiNgfinish™ superdry™ ClassiC 7-010 COATINGfinish™ process Our exclusive is a perfect example. . In this way. ice and mixed routes. are especially easy to handle and maintain their level of performance for longer – we are mastering tomorrow’s technology today! Wet ropes are more difficult to handle. and which have earned us many awards in neutral tests in the past. In addition to better performance in standard testing.g. These multipurpose ropes suits for classical sports climbing up to the gym as well. toproping and for any value-minded climber. e. This makes the superDRY™ treatment more effective and durable. Our research engineers are continually developing innovative solutions that make mammut ropes «state of the art». (filament = the finest element of a rope). dirt resistance and life span. Loading. through a fall. abrasion resistance. on alpine. When they freeze. The Classic Line ropes come with Mammut’s well-known quality and durability for a wide range of uses. or ropes which can hold a substantially higher load and have the same weight can be made. Therefore. substantially lighter ropes with the same number of falls. Most normal «dry treatments» treat just the rope’s sheath. lines ClassiC MAMMUT Standard superdry™ Clean & Dry COaTiNgfinish™ Light & Strong with COATINGfinish™ without COATINGfinish™ Good Handling Repels Dirt Repels Water Aided Durability QualiTy it’s not only «swiss quality» and one hundred percent dependability over a long life span which sets our ropes apart. With Mammut’s COATINGfinish™ process. their dynamic performance is clearly reduced. the COATINGfinish™ gives our top ropes further advantages: They have reduced rope drag. coating finishand which makes them the trend setter for safety and practical usage. This process demonstrates the innovative power that gives Mammut ropes the decisive technological 7-010 coating finish advantage. but we treat both the sheath and core. the individual rope strands are PTFE coated in order to minimise chafing and improve friction co-efficiency. absorb less dirt and moisture. and optimises handling. a dry-treated rope increases safety. These multipurpose ropes are ideal for casual sport and trad climbing. Frequent top roping. without interfering with handling.5% longer than indicated. In order to guarantee the advertised rope length we cut our ropes 2. the rope sheath and core slip relative to each other (sheath slippage). en­ vironment (dust. UIAA cer­ tificate and CE test centre – a permanent re­ minder of high quality Swiss workmanship. it’s possible for a rope to shrink by 5­10%. With normal ropes the weight of the sheath. for example when using a prusik loop to secure yourself whilst rappelling. is 35­40%. Marking with a marker pen. Anyone buying a Mammut rope gets proven quality. sand) and type of usage (lead rope. gym use. coiling. Each of our ropes contains a ribbon with the most important rope data integrated in the rope’s core: manufacturer. extreme performance ropes have around 45% sheath proportion and therefore. moisture). clearly a longer life span. and quicker wearing of the rope. For such applications we offer a rope with an increased sheath proportion. Due to the manufacturing process every «Kernmantle» rope shrinks from use. top rope). testing standards. The rope halves are always clearly dis­ tinguishable and the marking is permanent. We weld the ends of our ropes with an ultra sonic pro­ cess which is permanent and perfect. to replace a lost marking tape can chemically damage the rope filaments. In choosing a process we made sure that a dye was used that wouldn’t weaken either the sheath or the core filaments. coloured. Duodess All dynamic ropes from Mammut come with a friction resistant. This becomes a real problem when they separate at the end of the rope and fraying occurs. middle mark­ ing. Tape markings can get worn away through usage and can complicate handling. De­ pending upon weather (heat. The rope core and sheath are therefore perma­ nently joined – forever. info-tex A permanent mark in the middle of the rope is useful when rappelling.whERE thE DiffERENCE liES 8·9 Rope Ends Middle Marking Sheath Proportion Rope length Due to the movement caused by usage. date of manufacture. and work­ ing routes leads to increased sheath fric­ tion. Our fric­ tion resistant. in compari­ son to that of the core. This doesn’t happen to Mammut ropes. and for estimating the length of the remaining rope. Quality . With the patented Mammut Duodess design the pattern changes in the middle of the rope. Big Walls (ohne Eislines und Mixedklettern. its fall facilit control.2 Gravity Galaxy 10 10. der Schweiz hergestellt. Big Walls (ohne Eis und Schnee) If every gramm counts l Alpinism.2 Supersafe Evo 10. 9001-compliant Qual 9001-compliant Quality Ein Climbing Ein Qualitätsmanagement-System nachQualitätsmanagement-System nach ISO 9001 stellt vom Management System ensures th Sportsclimbing allround gym ISO 9001 stellt vom exceptional quality to exceptional quality from raw materials receipt through fro Rohwareneingang gleichRohwareneingang bis hin zum fertig verpackten Seil diebis hin zum fertig verpackten Seil die gleichPerfect balance between Good Handling produzierte Qualität sicher.5 Superflash 10. In unserem firmeneigenen TestlaborIn unserem firmeneigenen Testlabor and monitor to make and monitor ropes from every production batchropes fro mit Sturzanlage werden die mit Sturzanlage werden die Seile aus jedem Produktionslos auf Seile aus jedem Produktionslos auf the the relevant values are complied with.5 Su .2 Gravity 40/50/60/70 Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockcli Sportsclimbing Pe Sportsclimbing Al Gym Climbing DRYTM & Dry superDRy™ Clean & Dry 40/50/60/70/80/320 40/50/60/70/80 40/50/60/70 40/50/60/70/80 40/50/60/70/80/320 40/50/60/70/80 Duodess: 50/60/70/80 Duodess: 50/60/70 50/60/70/80 Duodess: Duodess: 50/60/70 Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing 8. aussergewöhnliche Qualität sicher.3 Meteor 50/60 50/60 8. Expeditions Multipitch Rock Climbing.5 Infinity9. Expeditions Walls (without ice and snow) Handhabung / Good Handling utzabweisend / Repels Dirt erabweisend / Repels Water Swiss Quality since Swiss Quality since 1862 Schweizer Qualität seit 1862 Schweizer Qualität seit 1862 Every MammutAn ISO Mammut® Seile werden zu 100% in Mammut® Seile werden zu 100% in Every Mammut® rope is produced in Switzerland. ® rope der Schweiz hergestellt.5 Twilight COatiNgfinish™ Light & Strong 50/60 8 Phoenix 7. Expeditionen und Schnee) Expeditionen Mehrseillängenklettern. durability and handling Perfect balance between weight.5 Genesis 50/60 50/60 50/60/70 50/60/70 50/60 50/60 50/60 50/60 50/60/70 50/60/70 30/40/50/60/70/80 30/40/50/60/70/80/100 40/50/60/70 30/40/50/60/70/80 30/40/50/60/70/80/100 40/50/60/70 40/50/60/70 30/40/50/60/70/80 50/60/70 Duodess: 50/60/70 Duodess: Duodess: 50/60/70 50/60/70 Duodess: 50/60/70 40/50/ 50/60 Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing 8.6 Climax 40/50/60/70/80 10 Vertex 9. Jeder produzierte single meterpackaged ro and Durability finished.8 Tusk 10. that is prod bleibende. relevant values ar alle relevanten alle relevanten Werte hin getestet und kontrolliert. Big Walls (without ice and snow) Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing Gym Climbing Sportsclimbing Allround activity Wenntype Gramm zählt jedes of Rope Gutes intensivem Gebrauch in Gutes Handling und Ideale Balance Handling Ideale Balance zwischen Gewicht. durability and hand­ for intensive auf etwaige elektronisch auf etwaige Meter wird bei der Schlusskontrolle Meter wird bei der Schlusskontrolle checked electronically for any inconsistencyelectronicallfi elektronisch use in Gyms control.3 Obsession 50/60 50/60 9.5 Infinity 10.6 Climax 10.5 Apex 10 Vertex 10.1 Gym Rope 40/50/150/300 40/50/150/300 SIC MUT ard ClaSSiC MAMMUT Standard 40/50/60/70/80/500 40/50/60/70 40/50/150/300 40/50/60/70/80 40/50/60/70/80/500 40/50/60/70 40/50/60/70/80 40/50/150/300 40/50/60/70/80 Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Sportsclimbing Allround Gym Climbing Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockcli Sportsclimbing Pe Sportsclimbing Al Gym Climbing Sportsclimbing Performance Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Wenn jedes Gramm zählt he Hochtouren.2 Revelation 10.5 Twilight 8. Lebensdauer und Handling lange Lebensdauer beiHandling und lange Leb If every gramm counts Good use in Gyms Good Handling and Durability for intensive Handling and Durability f Perfect balance between weight. In our in-house test laboratory withIn our in-hou Unregelmässigkeiten geprüft. ausser bleibende.8 Tusk 9.1 Gym 10.2 Supersafe Evo 8. Eis which is the right rope? Mehrseillängenklettern.2 RevelationSerenity 9.5 Spark 10 Galaxy 9. Big If every gramm counts and Ice Climbing. Werte hin getestet und kontrolliert.5 Apex Rope Alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockcli Sportsclimbing Pe Sportsclimbing Al Gym Climbing 10.5 Genesis Phoenix 8 9. Lebensdauer undzwischen Gewicht. Every finished.9 9.3 Obsession 50/60 50/60 8. Jeder gewöhnliche checked during the weight. packaged rope. and Ice Climbing. Big Walls (without ice and snow) peditions MixedMultipitch Rock Climbing. Mixed Multipitch Rock Climbing. durability and handling 1 / Lines What do I need my rope for? Which is the right type of rope? 3 Which property is the most important? superDry CLASSIC superDry CLASSIC COATING finish 4 Choose the right rope. e Lebensdauer / Aided Durability PuRChaSiNg tiPS INGfinishTM & Strong 7.3 Meteor 50/60 50/60 9.5 Spark 40/50/60/70/80 9.OPES OVERVIEW OVERVIEW whiCh iS thE Right ROPE 3 ROPES Kollektion / Collection ROPES Kollektion / Collection OVERV 10 · 11 / Line Einsatzgebiet /Activity Lines Einsatzgebiet /Activity Kollektion / Collection 1 Activity HALF 4 Kollektion / Collection Collection Summer 11 TWIN twiN 1 HALF 2 1 1 Einsatzgebiet TWIN 2 2 2 SINGLE SiNglE 8.9 Serenity 30/40/50/60/70/80 50/60/70 SINGLE 1 1 half 8. Page Dry Clean & 6 MAMMUT Clean & Dry MAMMUT Light & Strong 1 2 Standard Standard 2 1 COATING finish Page 14 Light & Strong alpine Climbing Multipitch Rockclimbing Sportsclimbing Performance Classical Alpinism. ling Unregelmässigkeiten geprüft. High Sierra. such as working routes or.e. Verdon. With frequent falls. shorter rope lengths can be sensible. with possible sharp edge loading. a dry-treated rope is recommended. A single rope is most often used for big wall climbing.e. Moonflower Buttress.e. ef­ ficient rope management. or half ropes are the first choice. or for longer rappels. PuRChaSiNg tiPS the intended use determines which rope is best. a doubled half rope length can be used.e. Training on a local crag. On poorly protected mixed routes.e. Sharp edge resistance is guaranteed by the appropriate ropes.e. Multi Pitch Sport Climbing i. Mt. Rescue i. classic belaying from anchor to anchor is necessary. Here it is advantageous to use a single rope. a half rope can also be used. Ouray. Climbing gyms Climbing Gym surfaces wear a rope more quickly. With bolted mixed routes a single rope can offer simpler handling. Sport Climbing i. or down climbing will be undertaken. So. twin. Charleston. Whether single or double – respectively twin ropes are used. Twin rope and half rope techniques offer the best safety margins and full rappelling distances. for high friction use. working routes with frequent falls i. As long as falls by the second only are possible. top Roping / institutional use To combat lots of abrasion and hard wear. long ice and Mixed Routes i. though dry­treatment is es­ sential. Longer ropes (70/80 m) are needed at many modern sport climbing areas to allow safe lower­offs. though in sharp edged rock terrain the safety margin given by twin ropes is welcome. Rainier. (Half­ or twin ropes). Dry­treatment. the following gives examples of typical usage. Thailand. As soon as more difficult rock with a uniform level of difficulty comes in to play – mean­ ing that a fall is possible at any time.e. South America. Wind River Range. a rope with a higher sheath proportion is useful.w h at D O i N E E D M y R O P E f O R 12 · 13 alpine Rock Climbing i. top roping. Denali. for alpine use. Mountain rescue. difficult waterfalls. High safety reserves and low elasticity are the most important properties of a mountain rescue rope. ice Climbing / Dry tooling i. circumstances allowing. Dry treatment is useful in change­ able conditions. Therefore. Walker Spur. while a static rope is used to haul. El Capitan. Or. a tougher sheath construction is an advan­ tage. a «work horse» of a rope is re­ quired. It’s desirable to have a large safety margin and tough sheath. Bugaboos. Rumney. With classic tours in mixed terrain and single climbing pitches up to grade 4 or 5 it is usual to down climb rather than rappel. Mt.e. Long rope lengths are particularly useful on ice routes where pitches can often be run together. Droites North face. In broken terrain. Baffin. it therefore makes sense to have a number of different ropes that can be used according to the type of climb. Frequent falls cause extensive wear. then. Handling and weight should be optimized for performing at the edge. Red Rocks. Only half or twin ropes offer the highest safety margins and enable long rappels in difficult terrain. the half rope technique reduces the load on the «safety chain». easy han­ dling and low weight all help with quick.e. Rifle. depends mainly upon whether rappelling. Weight is less important than lon­ gevity. though then only half the ropes length can be used. The by a dynamic belay. Mountaineering i. The requirements are similar to those of sport climbing. especially with ice. El Portrero Chico. Big wall Climbing i. . each with the specific performance characteristic required by the rope. a burly rope is impor­ impact force can be reduced tant. sturdier ropes and thicker sheaths are an advantage. Vail. Smith. Wenden. as typically found in Scotland. A dry­treated rope is also recom­ mended here. With diameters from approximately 7. lie between single and twin ropes. But here you have the choice between twin rope technique. Half ropes are tested singly with a 55 kg mass and must withstand five stan­ dard falls. Single ropes. increased safety in the case of shock loading over a sharp edge. where the «left» and «right» ropes run separately through different protection points. The two ropes offer redundancy and thus. can be climbed. They of­ fer the highest safety margin and allow full length rappels. with subsequent lowering or rappelling. about as heavy as the heavi­ single ropes. where both ropes run parallel through the protection and half rope technique. In single strand form they are suitable to belay two seconds. Single ropes are the most common type of ropes used.9 to 11 mm and weigh between 52 to 77 grams per meter.5 mm and a weight oundw 10-05-02 of between 38 to 45 grams per meter they are. This technique allows friction to be reduced in the case where protection points are widely spread and reduces impact force. with regard to strength and weight. They are therefore especially suited for alpine climbing or demanding routes where retreat may be necessary. which are tested according to different standards.w h at t y P E S O f R O P E a R E t h E R E there are basically three different types of rope. Single ropes are easy to handle and can be used in many condi­ tions.5 to 8. each best suited for different applications. This is of benefit when climbing traditionally protected routes. They come in diameters from 8 to 9 mm and weigh 41 to 55 grams per meter. . Single Ropes 2 1 2 14 · 15 1 twin Ropes 1 half (Double) Ropes 1 1 2 PuRChaSiNg tiPS 1 Marking tapes at the end of the rope identi­ fy to which category a dynamic climbing rope belongs. A disadvantage is that only routes up to a half rope length high. Half ropes. The main advantage is simple handling. Depending upon diameter and length they can be used for most conditions. with­ stand at least five falls with an 80 kg mass oundw 10-05-02 oundw 10-05-02 Twin ropes must only be used in pairs and are clipped together into each piece of protection. together. With standard testing est the ropes must withstand 12 falls with an 80 kg mass. Single ropes come in diameters of approxi­ mately 8. They only offer standard safety when they are used as a pair. as with single rope technique (= Twin rope technique). A belay method which enables the independent control of each rope must be used. Twin ropes offer high safety Half ropes allow a direct rope path with widely spaced protection points. In this case only the sheath is chafed by friction on rock or ice. our influence ends with the distribution to selected specialist dealers. must be un­ coiled before its first use to avoid tangles ›› A rope bag is the easi­ est and most effective protection from dirt. from the outset. as when top roping. against unnecessary contamination. To uncoil: open the rope cord and put both lower arms through the rope coils in opposing directions. been found error free. During its first use it must be tan­ uncoiled again. The top end can now run freely to the lead climber. increases abrasion and causes wear. it can oundw 22-05-02 be run through by hand. Heavy loading. An additional benefit of the bag is that if the free end of the rope is tied to the tarp. Take care that the second end doesn’t wind itself around a wrist and prevent the turn­ ing action. Carrying out the uncoiling procedure over a rope bag. or at home. Afterwards. two or three times. › A new rope. the practical life of the rope begins. however. and shaken gently in order to remove any twists. it can’t slip through the belay device by mis­ take when lowering—unfortunately this is a frequent cause of climbing accidents. oundw 21-05-02 haNDliNg . Mammut ropes do not need much effort to maintain. in order to get the most out of their most important piece of safety equipment. However. which after many years will become worn out. Lowering. substantially increases wear. One end of the rope is tied to the rope bag loop and then the loose rope can be stacked on the open tarp. the best rope can only give optimal performance if it is correctly used and treated carefully. Maintaining constant pressure – twist your lower arms outwards around each other. The rope wears least. Rope Care Every climbing rope is designed to be used. so that the ends of the rope drop to the floor. as with a classic ascent and descent without a fall. or hauling over edges.PRaCtiCal tiPS 16 · 17 for almost 150 years at Mammut we have applied all our experience and knowledge in order to produce the very best possible ropes. but each climber and mountaineer should observe a few basic rules. if it isn’t loaded. For carrying. otherwise annoying gles develop. after purchase. After uncoiling the rope. protects the rope. meter by meter. in the final control. due to awkward routing. on drums. it is ready to be transported or stored in a rope bag. wear and wears during use. It is also delivered in the same coiled condition. and therefore becomes the responsibility of the user. uncoiling – the first time «Lap In conventional production (not Coiled») the rope is coiled. differs depending upon the type of use. Every rope which leaves our factory is manufactured under strict quality controlled conditions and has. jerky descent. Rope Bags – protection and transportation When sport climbing a rope bag is the best means to transport and protect the rope from dirt and keep it ready for use. tangle free. When rappelling. that hasn’t been produced with the «Lap Coiled» system. the rope end is tied to the second loop of the tarp. moderate speed is «healthier» for the rope than a fast. For three person rope teams half ropes can be used. secure safe tying through the tying in point can save your life. or behind rocks. If possible. In this way. throw­ ing the ropes will likely cause them to blow around and get snagged. whereby one leader belays two seconds at the same time. three Person Rope teams Longer routes are sometimes climbed in three person teams. To remove the oundw 22-05-2002 rope. rough edges. For that purpose. Short roping For short. easy sections. To avoid this. Climbing difficult sections simultaneously with a «short rope» technique is possible for mountain guides. If. attach yourself directly to a bolt. heavily worn. thigh. If the same leader continues to climb the next pitch then the rope taken in must first be completely re­stacked so that it runs out cleanly. the man­ made fibers stretched by the fall can reju­ venate – thus. a figure eight knot and additionally a screw gate carabiner at the tie point. as often found in England and the USA. a Munter hitch has to be used for rappelling. where it can get stuck. the coils can. in an emergency. the leader must never clip both ropes into the same protection point. Widely spread protection points can be compensated for by using long runners. ›› In certain conditions lowering your partner can be safer than an independent rappel. and in the case of a fall. This is lethal for non­profes­ sionals. Instead.PRaCtiCal tiPS 18 · 19 ‹ Clean rope manage­ ment at the belay stance makes easier handling during multi­ pitch routes. but also on alpine climbs. If this is not done. if possible. each climbing partner puts as many coils as is comfortable over their shoulder and fixes the complete bundle of coils with a cross hitch. For you this means: belay correctly or climb rope free. Intelligently placed protection can keep it away from loose rock and wet. the rope end should be alternated. When in broken terrain with loose rock rappelling can cause rock fall or in high winds. the ropes should be routed in parallel to avoid tangles. it’s important that the rope coils don’t hang down below the belay stance because they can get snagged on blocks or icicles. otherwise a dangerously high impact force can develop. dw 21-05-2002 Rope management at the belay stance Particularly with waterfalls. clearly increasing the rope’s Rope routing Skillful rope routing reduces friction on the rope and your nerves. Recovery period after a fall After sport climbing falls the rope benefits rest phase. in a fall. Experienced climbers lay the rope in al­ ternate coils right and left over their belay rope. with no danger of falling. tighten and strangle the climber. haNDliNg . but never twin ropes. or damp places. After a hard shock from a loading the rope should «enjoy» a recov­ ery period and. and in windy conditions. the rope can be carried in coils over the shoulder. oundw 23-05-2002 through cracks. one coil after another is taken from the shoulder. within a limited range of application. so that no tangles or knots form. Even if the rope route can’t be made sufficiently straight. or foot and so always have good rope control. or in an awkward descent route. life span. it can make more sense to lower your climbing partner. the rope should not run over sharp. rappelling knots can easily form. The rope can also be saved if you don’t stay hanging from the rope after a fall. can break. If two single ropes are used. › When shortening the rope. Rappelling If the rope is not well coiled for throwing. double rope technique can be used – particularly with «naturally protected» routes. you can prevent a «bird’s nest» forming if you lay the individual coils down and stack the rope prior to climbing. For machine wash. A mild syn­ thetic detergent is the most suitable for this. ropes must be kept away from chemicals. If a rope be­ comes dirty. car bat­ teries). The rope should be regularly inspected both visually and by hand. 5-2002 Control At regular intervals. If you use this method with two rope ends. In order to avoid tangles the «Lap Coiling» method is recommended. it is crucial that the rope is coiled in coils. or whether you collect the rope coils in one hand.PRaCtiCal tiPS 20 · 21 washing – even in the machine Dirt reduces performance and worsens the rope’s handling characteristics. Taking in using the lap coiling method helps avoid tangles. If in doubt a good dealer will give you information about severity of the damage. over the «head» of the rope and tighten. bigger falls) you should carefully examine your rope. To do this. Pull one rope coil through the «eye» which has formed and. or after unusual us­ age (rock fall. taking Rope in The rope which is taken in should be lain on the cliff side of the anchor point in order to avoid trapping the rope’s end between the ring and the rock face. or over your thigh whilst kneeling doesn’t matter. you can wear the rope like a backpack. Storage In order to slow rope aging. Most importantly. Coiling Coiling allows the rope to be transported without a rope bag. dark place. When using the rope again. oundw 22-05-02 › oundw 22-05-02 For hassle­free taking up of the rope. particularly acids (i. and look for obvious damage to the sheath. Do not hang the rope from one of its coils. haNDliNg ‹ ‹ . Do not twist out any twists that develop! When the whole rope is coiled. Occasional washing maintains good handling and in­ creases the life span of the rope. hold it in the middle and wrap one or two arm lengths of rope around it a few times. or as a single strand from one end. Whether the doubled rope is coiled from the middle or from the ends. instead use a tubular webbing or accessory cord. the same instructions for wool should be used to take best care of the rope. stepping on with crampons.e. hard spots and other irregularities. the rope should be stored in a cool dark place. run the rope through your hands meter by meter and feel for bulges. rather than hang it up. the rope should be replaced. which hang down alternately left and right. over your neck. the knot must lie to cliff side. But. Where there are larger physical irregulari­ ties and thin or open places on the sheath. and not in loops. you can wash it either in hand warm water in the bathtub or in a normal household washing machine. Never tumble­dry! To dry it – lay it out in a cool. slingshot top rope can be reduced by using two carabiners. The fact that this damage cannot be detected from the outside is especially dan­ gerous. in particular. you should be able to evaluate the danger of various factors. Friction against rock. can clearly reduce a rope’s safety reserve. Before this. Sharp rock edges. assum­ ing a dynamic belay technique has been fall factor and impact force are used. Sheath discolouration may be barely perceptible. in order to decide by how much the safety reserves of the rope have been reduced. however. at some time even the best rope will reach a point when its safety reserve is too low. For reference: rap­ Practical tip: When top­rope practicing on pelling reduces the life span of a rope by a steep ice it occasionally happens that the factor of two to three compared with normal ice axe hits the rope. it can withstand hundreds of them. Under no circumstance should it be used in alpine terrain or in climbing areas with rough edges. falling rock. break with edge loading. If the anchor is set back from the edge. Extreme loading can make a rope either completely. Sulphuric of chemical damage by acid from car batteries. although the basic core can be destroyed. bigger falls of ten or fifteen meters don’t have to mean the end for the rope. If the rope end becomes stiff or rough you can cut off the damaged section. Also. even over a less sharp edge. Therefore. It is difficult to estimate the potential da­ mage of solvents. attacks the rope’s plastic filaments and can dissolve them. the rope can be severed. Safety oriented climbers will replace a rope after such a «heavy» fall. are – apart from sharp edge falls – the result acid. If the sheath is damaged so that the core is visible. but can. the harness. although it is only likely to be damaged in an abnormal situation. The load from the weight of a body when rappelling. Although a danger may be improbable. it should never be ignored. you should discard the rope.aV O i D i N g R O P E D a M a g E 22 · 23 0-110 Piktos Each usage reduces the life span of your rope. and carabiners. ropes should be never stored near chemicals. Naturally. This can make handling more difficult meter long overhand loop. Mechanical Damage friction 10-110 Piktos Chemical Damage Shock loading The few well known rope breakages today. damages the rope more than leading and seconding without loading the rope. it will usually already have lost so much practical comfort that you will have discarded it. or a blow from an ice axe can fatally damage a rope. Short. Lowering and top roping accel­ aging by a factor of five to ten. with a second and increase water absorption by the rope. or partially useless. dirt can Practical tip: The wear from abrasion in a still be forced into the rope core and affect it. it should be extended by using long lengths of static rope or webbing so that the rope doesn’t run over the edge of the rock. However. plies. where there is no second strand to give redundancy. in future. the erates Friction causes the small fibers in the sheath end of the rope can be double tied in when oundw 22-07-2002 to break causing it to become rougher and climbing on a single rope: attach a two fuzzy. The greater the load and the sharper the rock ­ the greater the wear on the rope. the rope should The be replaced. or lowering. 2-07-2002 DaMagE . sport climbing falls only minimally damage a rope. overhand knot and screw gate carabiner to If the sheath is so thin that it tears in places. or if the core filaments are also cut. critical for the well being of a rope. when compared with a new rope. A longer fall with fall factor over 1. therefore the middle of a rope should never be marked with felt­tip pen or similar. Even then it may still hold simple sport climbing falls. wear the rope’s sheath along the whole length of the rope. which is not gently braked. it can be cut off – in this case you should remember. oundw 22-07-2002 old rule «don’t step on the rope» still ap­ or allows the core to appear. Take particular care with single ropes. if the damage is only limited to a section near the end of the rope. with a semi­tube pick climbing. For safety. that the center marking is no longer accurate. the rope should be replaced. oundw 22-07-2002 When a rope is wet it is heavier and more difficult to use. a belay device holds an extreme fall. If it freezes. so one rope cannot burn through the other. Therefore. Rope can be twisted by lower­ ing at an angle over well defined edges or by cross­wise positioned carabiners. or dark col­ ored changes to the sheath. If a rope is coiled in a ring form (i. If the rope is extremely dirty. Frozen ropes may only hold half as many standard falls as dry rope. by mistake. dull edge. more difficult to handle and suffers from reduced perfor­ mance. though the fibers do lose elasticity and the rope becomes stiffer. rappelling can cause Unnecessarily fast the figure eight to become so hot that the rope melts at some points. keep both ropes absolutely parallel! In order to get tangles out of the rope it is best to let it hang freely. sudden changes in weather and wet spots on ice falls. oundw 22-07-2002 DaMagE wet Ropes oundw 22-07-2002 . and cannot be cleaned by for aesthetic reasons alone. e. caution is required if there are signs of chafing or friction burns. However. However. its performance decreases. this often increases with age. though even these will normally hold a standard static load. However. Particularly danger­ ous contamination is caused by granite dust and sand because the quartz crystals can erode the core fibers inside the rope – re­ ducing the strength of the rope.e. can indicate 22-07-2002 UV radiation from the sun causes colors to fade and accelerates aging. It makes them stiffer and stickier. Take care in popular areas: If two teams are forced to use the same anchor then under no circumstances should the ropes use the same carabiner. With the Munter hitch. Dangerous situations for freezing moisture are: glaciers softened by the sun. moderate speed makes sense. In these places the rope is somewhat stiffer. and when rappelling there is the danger that the strands tangle around each other. or if two ropes are both routed through the same anchor point. tar. Irregular sheath thickness and soft spots oundw this type of damage. pulling the rope over a gentle. kink free rope handling. grease or washing. Repeated stacking. Melting is recognisable by glassy. With more serious friction damage. 10-110 Piktos Dirt in ropes is mostly a handling problem. tangles are often caused by handling mistakes. especially if the rope is used for rappelling or lowering. Practical tip: Pay attention to clean. and a stiff frozen «cable» is torture to force through a descending device. Some ropes have a natural tendency to tangle more than others. the ra­ diation to which a climbing rope is subjected in use has a negligible effect on strength. «mountaineers coil») it forces tan­ gles to form. when rappelling. At the main anchor each team must make its own belay.10-110 Piktos aV O i D i N g R O P E D a M a g E 24 · 25 friction burns Contamination uV Radiation tangles An extreme form of damage caused by fric­ tion is the friction burn.g. it may be worth considering replacing it. You should make sure that the ropes don’t cross. A rope that is badly tangled is difficult to use. can help to remove tangles. Tangles are spiral formed twists. More dubious are the completely bleached rope rappel slings that can be found on some routes. from oil. This is likely to hap­ pen when one rope rubs on another. thereby reduc­ ing its strength just at this point. transparent charred. and when taking­in use the «Lap­Coiling» method. Careful handling helps avoid this annoyance. The sheath has slipped noticeably. 6. It depends on the type and the length of use. The rope was subjected to extreme loads (e. Strong deformations are present (stiffness. or particularly fuzzy. At the latest. the lifespan of a rope is difficult to define. They maintain the continuous quality of products and services. un­ manageable rope you should «down grade» it to top roping only. furry. The ISO (International Organization for Standardization) combines the united world­ wide national normative organizations. (for ropes – EN 892). The sheath is extremely worn. on shock loading and other influences that weaken the rope. The number after the CE symbol (e. Naturally each of our ropes not only fulfils. but rather a type of passport for that product within the European Union. Certifying is conducted by an external body. for example the B. Heat. the UIAA­ standards are somewhat more stringent than the Euro standards. Therefore. S ta N D a R D t E S t R E Q u i R E M E N t S 26 · 27 internationally accepted standards guarantee that only safe equipment is allowed to be sold. Therefore.I.g. This symbol shows that the manufacturer recognizes his own responsibility. or friction burns have caused damage. The following table gives reference values for the usability of the rope: uiaa Frequency of Use Never used Rarely used: twice per year Occasionally used: once per month Regularly used: several times per month Frequently used: each week Constantly used: almost daily Approximate Life Span 10 years maximum up to 7 years up to 5 years up to 3 years up to 1 year less than 1 year iSO Products which display this symbol fulfill the requirement standards of the UIAA.S. abrasion. a brand new rope can break over a sharp edge. in most cases. The ISO Norm 9001 defines overall process rules for Quality Management. it is not a quality symbol. heavy falls. tar). tEStS . 3. CE 1023) indicates the batch number or the standard/directive.l i f E S Pa N – t i M E t O R E P l a C E Even some ancient ropes can still hold a «short» sport climbing fall. if you no longer have confidence in your old. particularly acids. The UIAA. clearly over fall factor 1). has for decades pioneered the development of practically oriented stan­ dards. with the private user. and also the stricter uiaa standards. All Mammut ropes fulfill the most recent UIAA requirements. The rope is extremely dirty (grease. sponginess). the International Union of Alpine Associations. It means that the EN standards for product security are maintained. oil. Therefore. 5. In the end. it’s a per­ sonal safety decision. The sheath is damaged and the core is visible. 4. whilst in com­ parison. Independent of frequency of use. For commercial users keeping a rope log is recommended. But what do the various standards and symbols stand for? EN EN 892 CE-Conformity Symbol The Euro Norms have been especially tailored for products to be standardized. a symbol is always accompanied by the number of the norm. 7. nicks. but exceeds both the Eu rope norm EN 892. a rope should be disposed of if: 1. Products which display the EU norm symbol fulfill the safety requirements and must have passed a production­sample test at a recognized test center.g. 8. The rope came in contact with chemi­ cals. 2. Normal single ropes weigh 60 to 85 grams per meter. brings a dynamic effect. Moisture and particularly frost can reduce it by about one or two standard falls. In practice the diameter has little mean­ ing. The practical relevance of the impact force is relatively small because it is measured with the standard static fall test. The standard fall with a fall factor of 1. In practice. The single rope Relevation weighs 55 grams. In standard tests the the impact force for single and twin ropes may not exceed 1200 daN and for half ropes ‹ 800 daN (approx. when the rope absorbs the fall energy by its elongation. But the efficiency of a rope decreases: aging and wear reduce its strength. .e. which hold 5­9 standard falls. dynamic belaying a large part Through of the fall’s energy is dissipated and so the impact force is reduced. produce a stronger «jolt» in the falling body and on safety system. a fall is almost always caught dy­ Belay devices (Munter. The number of falls is a direct measurement safety reserve. 800 kp). or a few beads of sweat! oundw 28-05-2002 tEStS The drop test is the point of most interest. when holding the fall. some ropes on the market clearly deviate from the manufacturer’s data. etc. Measurements by Mammut of typical sport climbing falls show. Mammut ropes in the Challenge Line. A weight of 80 kg (with single and twin ropes) or 55 kg (with half ropes) falls on a single cord (single and half ropes) or doubled cord (twin ropes). and their attachment to a central point.) have a certain rope path. The impact force is the maximum force which affects the load in a standard fall. are par­ treated with ticularly light.75 is an extremely hard one. It is the measurement for the «hardness» of the fall. with 15 to 17 standard falls. the half rope Phoenix 41 grams and the twin rope Twilight 38 grams. assuming good conditions and good rope manage­ ment. Only the clamping effect of particular braking devices or belay devices with thin ropes should be controlled (with back up safety). Under test. half ropes about 50 grams and twin ropes about 45 grams. Ropes with higher impact force. Just two grams less weight per meter already reduces the pack weight of a 50­meter­rope by 100 grams – the equivalent of a chocolate bar. however. which very rarely occurs in practi­ cal use.: the fall rope is completely fixed. how are the tests conducted. It’s therefore important to provide a truly dynamic belay. and what do the results mean for the practical performance of ropes? falls held impact force 0-100 illupicco Diameter weight per Meter Rope diameter is measured under a 10 kg load. those with more than 9 falls are designated multi­ fall ropes. i. standard falls a It measures how many rope will withstand. a doubled twin rope at least 12. No new rope of a rope’s can break from an impact load. that with dynamic belaying the difference in impact force between two different ropes is barely discernable. Single and half ropes must withstand at least 5 standard falls. The advantage of thinner ropes is normally reduced weight and friction. are designated as standard fall ropes. figure namically. ATC. COATINGfinish™.w h at i S t E S t E D 28 · 29 picco Exactly what is tested. or oundw 28-05-2002 on the harness. Single ropes. eight. oundw 28-05-2002 oundw 28-05-2002 oundw 28-05-2002 tEStS .1 times as large as the rope diameter. All Mammut ropes already fulfill the EN standard. because it deter­ mines whether the falling body will. The sheath and core are then rigorously tested by the milling action of the drum. In these cases. Roughly speak­ ing. This parameter measures the elongation of the rope during the first standard fall. as the suppleness of a rope is also determined by care and the weather. Knotability is a reference point for the stiff­ ness of a rope: with stiff ropes the knot can­ not be as tightly tied. If the ends are carelessly welded the sheath or core can slip out of alignment. An over hand knot is tightened with a force of 10 daN and then loosened at 1 daN. With greater elongation danger is increased. With modern climbing ropes sheath slippage hardly ever occurs. due to the fall impact on pro­ tection. Elongation is more relevant to safety when falling (see below). How­ ever. or if a difficult sequence has been climbed with a top rope and while resting this distance is lost. it’s annoying when energy is wasted through rope stretch. With requirements of the values from 28­32% they fall well under the 40% permitted maximum. for ex­ ample. the rope can bulge and get lumps. too much value shouldn’t be placed on this measurement. off­set rope guide. and the path through the belay device is possibly made more difficult. with a zigzag shaped. The maximum permissible elongation with this fall elonga­ test is 40%. The sheath may be displaced by a maximum of 20mm If the sheath and core slip during use. A piece of rope preloaded with 5 kg is loaded with 80 kg: elongation may not exceed 10% for single and twin ropes. For this test a two meter long piece of rope is drawn five times through a test device – a metal drum. Static working elongation mainly assesses top roping or hauling on comfort when big walls.w h at i S t E S t E D 30 · 31 working Elongation first fall Elongation Sheath Slippage Knotability Working elongation indicates the elasticity of a rope with a static load. shock load a runner. and 12% for half ropes. This dynamic tion indicates the inertial properties of a rope better than the static value of working elongation. a relationship exists between the two values for static and dynamic elongation. compared with a more supple rope. Afterwards the inside diameter of the knot is allowed to be a maximum of 1. 23. Jumar. rope brakes braking devices rope diameter 28 rope log 26 Of particular use for commercially used ropes. a shorter rope is adequate and reduces weight. The anchor must be solid and free from sharp edges. C Care 16-21 CE 27 Chemical damage 22 Climate Neutral ropes 4 COaTiNgfinish™ 6. 28 Coiling 21 Control 20 d daN Conformity symbol filament 29 The measurement for the hardness of a fall. it is essential to use a dynamic braking device. which is subjected to the sum of the force of the person falling. 29 standard requirements static ropes Top roping with the belayer standing at the bottom of the climb. 22. 29 ascenders Rope aging is caused by many factors: usage. terraced cliffs. 29 fall factor The energy produced by a falling body using the formula: E = m * g * h (= weight of the falling body * force of gravity * height of fall). 22. on to a meter long braking cord). lowering or top roping meters (multiplied by 1. or water eroded chalk stone. Ropeman. The most heavily stressed is the uppermost piece of protection. Grigri etc). At Mammut the COATINGfinish™ reduces the friction between the rope filaments. rope aging 26 Aging 17 stepping on the rope 23 31 stiffness (Knotability) superdry™ 5 (mechanical damage) g l O s s a ry i impact force isO-norm 27 rest phase standard fall 24. 23. roughness. r rappelling 19. P Pitch 12 Technical unit of force for measuring. In terrain where belays have to be made more frequently (i. the number of meters climbed (multiplied by 0. Euro Norms «internal erosion» caused by the penetration of sand or quartz particles. 29 safety system 29 N Number of falls 6 The number of Standard falls that a rope can hold during standard testing. a piece of protection should be placed as soon as possible after the belay stance. 6 PTFE is a fluoropolymer resin that reduces friction. dirt 17. four to six yarns form a braid. 10. 25 Carabiners or special devices for securing (HMScarabiner. Sharp rock edges.66). H Half rope technique Half ropes 15 Handling 8 Q Quality management 15 sheath proportion 9 sheath slippage 31 short roping 19 shrinkage 9 single rope technique single ropes 14 sling shot All the technical elements that hold a fall. A rope log simplifies the maintaining of the usage history of the rope. 29 l lap Coiled 5 lifespan 26 lowering 23 The lowering of a secured load. Therefore. Knot used for belaying. Therefore. approximately a 1 Kg mass. See braking devices. It is calculated by dividing the distance of the fall. loading. cause increased rope wear and the danger of breakage when shock loaded. 23 Additional or parallel safety built in to a system. This property makes it ideal for use in hauling. Tibloc. that caused by impact with the rock. those with 7.g.).g l O s s a ry 32 · 33 a wear abrasion 11 acid 21. These properties are subjective are not standardized. A worthwhile principle to apply in high risk activities such as climbing – hence the twin rope technique. 22. which produces Shock loading and deformation e. .g. also known as a Half rope technique. The term used for the rope’s working properties: grip. with a fall distance over 5-7 meters. and the person belaying. are rated as «hard» falls. ATC. cams etc. 29 dynamic ropes 15 friction burns 24 friction 23 wear The thin threads from which the rope is constructed: two to six filaments form a strong yarn. protection. Of particular danger is the rope bag recovery period Rock edges.33) and the rappelling. ( braking devices. a number of which then form the core. environmental factors. boulder strewn areas etc. This is reduced through friction. by the length of rope which has been paid out.e. suppleness. From this the total «usage meters» can be calculated. In order to avoid the accidental unclipping of the wrong rope two ropes should never be routed through the same anchor (rope wear is increased). terrain. The entries include the number of days used. 30 B Balanced rope Concept 2 Braid 3 Braking and belay devices 28. Wear and aging are increased. rope. Mammut uses Polyamide 6 (nylon) PTfE (coating) The length that is climbed from belay to belay. Ropes with 5-7 standard falls can usually be used for about 1500 – 5000 meters. 14 27 Ropes designed to absorb energy generated in a fall by elongating under load.). consisting of a load bearing «core» and protective sheath. These affect rope wear and braking potential.9 standard falls 5000 – 10000 meters and those with more than 9 standard falls 10000 – 20000 meters. rope management 18 rope routing 18 rope threads 6 filament s safety reserves 22. rope elongation. m munter hitch 19. 24 washing discarding a rope 26 double rope technique drop test tower 2 drop test 29 duodess 8 dynamic belay 13. harness. as found on granite. 27 Ropes designed to stretch very little under load. Fall factor 2 (falling from the belay is the MCA (maximum credible accident) when climbing. 6 (Also called italian hitch or friction hitch). 18 E Edge loading (mechanical damage) EN-standard 27 Erosion 24 13. Devices which grab the rope as when climbing a fixed rope or carrying out a rescue (instead of a prussic sling) e. protection nuts. 22 aging 21. Only dynamic ropes can be used to belay a lead climber. The weakest link determines the overall strength of the system. Fall factors greater than 2 are possible when climbing via ferratas (fall distance of a number of meters. possibly through a carabiner or ring. with the rope doubling back from the anchor. with brutal loading placed on both the climber and belayer. rescue and fixed line use. 27 K Kernmantle construction The most usual construction for dynamic climbing ropes. 29 22 Mechanical wear. f fall elongation fall energy 29 29. Static rope must never be used to belay a lead climber. 24 recovery period 18 redundancy 15. figure 8. Falls over factor 1. 24 wear 16. 13 8 working elongation The working out of moves and sequences.ch Internet www. with the belay stance at the top of the climb. 30 Twin rope technique Twin ropes 15 Climbing. 2010 Art. 23. 29 weight per meter 28 working a route 12. 2030536 .ch © Mammut Sports Group AG.mammut. 13.5. 25 Top roping 12.ENglisH T Taking rope in 20 Tangles 17. A common way to practice pushing the limit. Switzerland e-mail [email protected]. 30 Mammut Sports Group AG Birren 5. This gives the rope greater wear. 15 u uiaa standards 27 ultra sonic (rope ends) uncoiling 17 uV radiation 25 w washing 21. often with falls and hanging from the rope between moves. 5703 Seon. 19. Switzerland Edition No. 21.