June_Pergola_Plan.pdf

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For more details on using Adobe Acrobat Reader please visit our online help section at: http://www.woodstore.net/clicherforde.html Visit the WOOD Store at: WOODStore.net patio.com build-to-suit pergola GREAT OUTDOOR PROJECTS DP-00327 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002 Add elegance to your outdoor living with this airy pavilion. Easily sized to fit any space.woodonline. this versatile pergola will enhance your deck. Page 1 of 13 .DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS ® http://www. or yard. where dimensioned on Drawing 2. For smooth routing. cut. as shown in Photo A. For good appearance and easy assembly. Cut close to the lines. Using a crosscut guide. and repeat until all four bevels are cut. Chuck a ¤" roundover bit in your router (to match the joists’ factory edges). and use it to mark the 3fi"-radius cutouts on the parts’ ends. Chuck a flush-trim bit in your handheld router. where shown on Drawing 1. Using your portable circular saw. drive a wood screw through the back of the jig into the blank’s center. Take two of the parts just notched. rotate 90°. Glue and nail the cap bases. Using a square. For the post caps. so we designed this pergola to be infinitely adaptable. (We installed the caps after the pergola was completely assembled. See plan DP-00328a for this project. see plans Arbor DP-00328a and Porch swing WD-OFS-1002. In the same manner as before. you’ll want a close but not tight fit. a straightedge. and set them aside. You start with a pile of machined parts. Sand the posts to 120 grit. mark your cutline on all four sides. form the notches. To get a square cut. as shown in Photos B and C. and rout the end profiles’ edges. To shrink it to the size of an arbor and add a relaxing swing. E) to length. and a 1" chisel. It’s that easy. you’ll appreciate how your pergola goes together like Lincoln Logs. Make the marking/trimming template shown on Drawing 2a. rout the final profile. to the cap 1 2 Use your jigsaw to cut the joist and girder ends to shape before smoothing the final profile with your router.” but you’ll learn how to increase or decrease its dimensions as needed. and clamp them together with their ends and edges flush. To hold the blank. Cut one face. using an exterior glue and 4d galvanized nails. use a 5 A Cut the parts for your pergola kit Cut four 6×6 (5fi×5fi" actual) posts (A) to the length in the Materials List. Bevel the 1fi"-thick cap tops. o two of us have the same outdoor living spaces. then fit the slotted canopy subassemblies together. start by cutting four 1fi×5fi×5fi" cap tops (B) and four ‡×4fi×4fi" cap bases (C). centered. Page 2 of 13 TM . cut all around the post to the full depth of your portable circular saw. where shown on Drawing 2. To make these cuts. construct the frames. we used the auxiliary fence and sliding saddle shown in “Great Ideas for Your Shop” on page 13. You can build it as a freestanding structure on an existing deck or patio or set its posts in the ground.) Cut the 2×6 main joists and side girders (D. raise the posts. The one shown here occupies a 111×148" “footprint. rout from the cutout’s “heel” to the part’s end. with ends and edges flush. 3 Turn the joists and girders upside 4 down on a pair of sawhorses. draw lines across the parts’ bottom edges (now facing up) for the 1fi"wide notches. Sand the caps to 120 grit and set them aside. and clamp them together. No matter which way you go.) Check the fit of your 1fi" stock in the notch.N tops. Clamping the template to each part to guide the bit. Finish off the cut with a handsaw. (These photos show cutting similar notches in the swing pergola joists. countersunk 15° bevel B 1fi" C ‡" 4d galvanized finish nail A POST 107‡" 1 post A 5fi" 5fi" ›" lag screw 3" long Post base Mitered L ends L M L ‡ x ‡" L M M fi" cove 2" deck screw 3‹" 7" M 7¤" Page 3 of 13 TM .4" deck screw ‰" shank hole. ‹" hardboard 2a marking/trimming template 3" deck screw ¸" shank hole.TM W X U J I H G T S R Q P O N V F E D C B A Page 4 of 13 K 8›" 3" deck screw 15fi" 1fi" J 5fi" 1fi" 1fi" R=3fi" G F 23fl" 8fi" F 1fi" F D 1fi" 2‹" 3" deck screw 5fi" 2 main joist/blocking assembly D 168" F F 22" F F F G ‡ x ‡ x 9‡" stock 9‡" D E 6‹" H I R=3fi" Rout ¤" round-overs on these edges after the end profiles are shaped. countersunk F F 2 MARKING/TRIMMING TEMPLATE . E).) The interval between the pairs is the length of the blocking (F).How to plan your perfect pergola length. and the girders and joists extend beyond the footprint by 10" at each end. Although you can orient the main joists and side girders (D. Now. To find the length of the main joists and side girders (D. using the same spacing method (though not necessarily the same spacing). Start with your pergola’s footprint. Using these instructions and the drawing below as a guide. keeping the distance between the close-spaced pairs at 5fi". you easily can customize a pergola to fit your needs. Because 16' is the longest commonly available cedar 2×6. position the blocking and the stub joists (I) along the main joists. Here’s how. add 20" to the footprint’s width. your footprint cannot exceed 172×172". E) in either direction. for planning purposes we’ll refer to the outside-of-post to outsideof-post dimension parallel to these members as the footprint length. (We tried to keep the interval between adjacent joist pairs in the neighborhood of 24". This is simply the outside-of-post to outside-of-post length and width. add 20" to the footprint’s I 5fi" E 24" +- F F 5fi" D 24" +5fi" Footprint length 24" +- D H 5fi" 10" 24" +5fi" A B C 10" 24" +5fi" Footprint width Page 5 of 13 TM . To find the length of the end girders (H). Adjust the number of pairs and/or the length of the blocking (F) to evenly fill the distance between the posts. Position the main joists (D) across the end girders (H). As with the two side girders (E). Rout the ‹" cove. Bend a narrow strip of hardboard to join the centerpoint and ends. You’ll miter-cut the cove caps and base trim to fit around the posts after the pergola is in place. where shown on Drawing 3. Then clamp the template bracket. and set them aside. use the template. Joint the sawn edges of the remaining boards. form the notches in the end girders (H) and the stub joists (I). and set them aside. and router to mark and form the end cutouts. Finish the parts with two coats of exterior latex paint. where shown on Drawing 3. to each of the sawn blanks. and use a flush-trim bit in your handheld router to smooth the curves. plane two 1×6×6' cedar boards to ‡" thick. Sand them to 120 grit. Clamp a straightedge to the joists. Use this completed bracket as a template to trace the curve on the other bracket blanks. Note: The 4/4 cedar that many lumberyards carry is about Œ" thick and rough-sawn on one side. where shown on Drawing 4a. To get smooth faces and edges. jigsaw. Cut the blocking (F) and upper bracket cleats (G) to size. Sand the base and cap stock to 120 grit. in turn. and draw the curve. along with the end girders (H). 11 12 C Set your saw to cut 2‹" deep. Note that the notches in the end girders are cut in their top edges to mate with the notches cut in the bottom edges of the side girders. Rout a fi" cove in the jointed edges. Prime all the pergola parts with an exterior-grade latex primer. lightly sand with 220grit sandpaper. we planed 6 7 8 10 B a 1×6×8' board to ‡" thick and ripped and jointed it to 3fi" wide before cutting the 10" lengths. smoothing their bottoms to a uniform depth. Page 6 of 13 TM . Saw to the waste side of the lines. Finish up by routing ¤" round-overs where shown. and rip off a ‡"-wide strip for the cove caps (L). gauge. When the primer dries. form the pergola’s outer frame. as noted above. make the angled end cuts. and set them aside. Mark the centerpoint of the curve on one blank. and rip them to 3‹" wide for the base trim (M). Apply two coats to the end grain and the notches.Cut eight 2×8 blanks 41Œ" long 9 for the brackets (J). E) to 120 grit. Mark these as the side girders (E) that. Sand the parts H and I to 120 grit. Sand the parts (D. Jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut the end girders (H) and the stub joists (I) to size. and cut a series of kerfs to define the notches. then sand to the line. Cut the lower bracket cleats (K) to size. Sand the cleats to 120 grit. and drill three shank holes countersunk from the back and six shank holes countersunk from the front in each piece. Use a chisel and hammer to clean out the notches. Following the same procedure as with the main joists and side girders. As with the main joists and side girders. Joint one edge of each board. Using your circular saw or tablesaw and miter handsaw and chisel to deepen the notches to 2‡" (or half the actual width of your 2×6s). For the cove caps (L) and base trim (M). girders the notches in the end girders to 2‡" deep. where shown on Drawing 4. Position the main joist/blocking assemblies (D/F). Drill ‹" pilot holes. where shown on Drawings 4 and 5. plumb. where dimensioned on Drawing 3. Slip the end notches of the side girders (E) into the notches of the end girders (H). Screw the bracket assemblies to the posts and the upper bracket cleats (G). slipping the main joist notches over the end girders. Miter-cut the base trim (M) to fit around the post bases. Fasten the upper bracket cleats (G) to the main joists. and brace them in place.How to assemble the pergola step 1 step 2 step 3 G Screw together main joist/blocking (D/F) subassemblies. step 4 Screw together the two main joist/ stub joist (D/I) subassemblies. Screw the bases to the posts. step 7 step 8 step 9 Screw the lower bracket cleats (K) to the brackets (J). Hoist the main joist/stub joist assemblies (D/I) into place. step 5 step 6 Lag-screw each end girder to two posts. Leave 5fi" spaces between the main joists of adjacent assemblies. where shown on the drawing. Fasten with screws. where shown on Drawing 4. The tops of both girders are flush. Stand these assemblies up in the post bases. and lag-screw the side girders to the posts. Apply construction adhesive and bandclamp. where dimensioned on Drawing 2. slipping the stub joist and main joist notches over the side girders (E) and the end girders (H). and nail it in place. Lay out your pergola’s footprint. Take diagonal measurements to check your layout for square. and lag-screw four post bases to the deck. as shown. as shown. where shown on Drawing 4. The post bases allow you to fine-tune their locations. Miter-cut the cove cap (L) to fit around the post. Page 7 of 13 TM . Fasten the upper bracket cleats (G) to the subassemblies where shown on Drawings 2 and 5. as shown on Drawing 1. Fasten with deck screws. TM Page 8 of 13 131" 2‡" 8fi" 1fi" 8fi" 5fi" H 1fi" 2‹" R=3fi" 2" 1fi" 5fi" 1fi" 23fl" 36‹" 2‹" 1fi" 15fi" 1fi" 5fi" 5fi" 1fi" 8›" G 1fi" I 5fi" I I 5fi" I I G 3 main joist and end girder R=3fi" I 15fi" D 5fi" 3" deck screw 168" 1fi" 36‹" I I I I . 5‡" E 1fi" 4 bracket mounting H 2‹" 16fl" J 1fi" 3fi" Ø" A 2" deck screw 10" 1fi" deck screw K ‹" cove 4a bracket 4fl" 7" Top end 90° 45° Curve centerpoint J ¤" round-overs 41Œ" 7‹" 90° 3‹" 3Œ" 45° 18" 2" Page 9 of 13 TM . TM Page 10 of 13 107‡" E 2‹" K D A B H 111" 1fi" deck screw J G K F 2" deck screw ‹" cove J I G 3" deck screw M D F M A B I G G L ›" lag screw 4" long ›" washer C D F A F D I 148" E J H G B L 1fi" deck screw I 3" deck screw 4" deck screws F G 3 exploded view F D M A K ›" lag screw 4" long ›" washer 1" counterbore fi" deep with C a ›" hole centered inside 4" deck screw . lag screws. or the finished project to the buyer. AB66). ›" flat washers. Referring to the ninestep sequence of photos on page 7. drill counterbored shank holes through the girders and ‹" pilot holes into the posts.materials list Put it all together and voilà. drill only countersunk shank holes. and steel post bases (Simpson Strong Tie no. ›" lag screws 3" long. Supplies: 1fi" deck screws. and screw the caps to the tops of the posts. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project. When lag-screwing the girders to the posts. 3" deck screws. and painted. James R. primer. paint. make up the subassemblies. To give us secure anchorage for the post bases. Qty. the design. Material Key: C–cedar. When fastening parts with deck screws. we added blocking underneath the deck. steel post bases (4). you’re just an afternoon away from transforming your yard’s personality. and assemble the canopy and braces. All you’ll need is some basic hardware: deck screws. primed. erect the posts and girders. ¿ FINISHED SIZE 1 Part T W L Matl. The deck screws drive into the cedar without pilot holes. 4d galvanized finish nails. ›" lag screws 4" long. Downing Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. Remove the temporary braces from the posts. See the instructions. Touch up the paint where needed. pergola Now that you have all your pergola parts made. Drill countersunk shank holes through the post caps (B/C). A posts 5fi" 5fi" 107‡" C 4 B cap tops 1fi" 5fi" 5fi" C 4 C cap bases ‡" 4fi" 4fi" C 4 D main joists 1fi" 5fi" 168" C 8 E side girders 1fi" 5fi" 168" C 2 F blocking 1fi" 5fi" 22" C 30 G upper bracket cleats 1fi" 5fi" 8›" C 8 H end girders 1fi" 5fi" 131" C 2 I stub joists 1fi" 5fi" 15fi" C 20 J* brackets 1fi" 7‹" 40›" C 8 K lower ‡" 3fi" 10" C 8 bracket cleats L* cove caps ‡" ‡" 7" C 16 M*base trim ‡" 3‹" 7¤" C 16 *Parts initially cut oversize. Page 11 of 13 TM . 2" deck screws. 2 Written by Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle Project design: Kevin Boyle. Kim Downing Photographs: Baldwin Photography Graphic design: Lorna Johnson The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans. Apply construction adhesive to the bottoms of the caps. 4" deck screws. construction adhesive. Finish off your pergola by driving 3" deck screws through the side girders (E) and the end girders (H) into the upper bracket cleats (G). TM Page 12 of 13 F F F F F F G G G H I I I I J K K K K M M M K M K L L L L ‡ x 5fi x 72" Cedar (1x6x6) (2 needed) C ‡ x 5fi x 96" Cedar (1x6x8) K K 1fi x 7‹ x 168" Cedar (2x8x14) (2 needed) J 1fi x 5fi x 168" Cedar (2x6x14) (2 needed) I 1fi x 5fi x 168" Cedar (2x6x14) (2 needed) G 1fi x 5fi x 192" Cedar (2x6x16) (3 needed) F 1fi x 5fi x 168" Cedar (2x6x14) B B B B D E 1fi x 5fi x 168" Cedar (2x6x14) (10 needed) 5fi x 5fi x 120" Cedar (6x6x10) (4 needed) A I I F F J I F F J I CUTTING DIAGRAM I F F F . Tim Cahill Photograph: Baldwin Photography Tablesaw rip fence 2" Auxiliary rip fence 1‹" 4" 1" ‡ x 4" auxiliary wood fence secured to rip fence Tablesaw RIP-FENCE SADDLE Page 13 of 13 TM . ¿ fi x 1 x 8" stock (vertical support) 8" ‡ x 8 x 8" plywood 8" ‡" ‡ x 2 x 8" stock Saddle ‡ x 1‹ x 8" stock Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine.great ideas for your shop rip-fence saddle An inexpensive. The auxiliary fence must be 90° to the saw table. Wax the mating pieces if necessary for easy sliding. Edits and tinting 01-09-02 TJC edits 01-21-02 TJC Positioned to center the workpiece over the dado blade. or build it for supporting stiles and other workpieces as shown in the photo at right. Use one hand to push the saddle and workpiece across the blade. and your other hand to keep the saddle riding firmly on the auxiliary fence. without free play. with the top edge of the fence sitting 1" above the top edge of the metal fence. along the top edge of the auxiliary fence. shop-built jig for top-notch machining and joinery B uild this auxiliary wood fence and mating saddle to bevelcut the post caps for the pergola on page 3. Workpiece Note: Our auxiliary fence is screwed securely to our metal tablesaw rip fence. Size your wood fence so the saddle rides smoothly. the jig is the perfect setup for machining bridle joints or open mortises and the mating tenons. com The online presence of WOOD magazine. helpful forums.com Looking for information from leading woodworking companies? 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