Iowegan’s Book of Knowledge for the Ruger GP-100 revolver

Iowegan's 8ook of know|edge for the kuger GÞŴ100 revo|verWr|tten by Iowegan 1h|s mater|a| |s copyr|ghted by the authorŦ Þ|ease v|s|t the kuger Iorum for add|t|ona| I8Ck's on var|ous kuger mode|sŦ httpť]]wwwŦrugerforumŦnet Introduct|onť 1he kuger GÞŴ100 |s a s|x shot doub|e act|on revo|ver chambered |n 38 Spec|a| or 3S7 MagnumŦ Its robust des|gn evo|ved from the o|der Secur|tyŴS|x ser|esŦ 1he GÞŴ100 has a |arger frameţ th|cker cy||nderţ |mproved gr|p mount|ng systemţ tr|gger return spr|ngţ front s|ghtţ |nterna| cy||nder reta|nerţ and tr|gger guard |atchŦ Cther than these m|nor changesţ both the Secur|tyŴS|x and GÞŴ100 |nterna| des|gns are near|y |dent|ca|ţ as are the kuger SÞŴ101 and kuger Super kedhawkŦ Des|gnť kuger eng|neers d|d an exce||ent [ob des|gn|ng the GÞŴ100Ŧ Most of the parts are conta|ned by pushŴout p|ns or spr|ngŴ|oaded p|ungers and a mere 3 screwsŦ 1he des|gn |s a modu|ar concept w|th three ma|n assemb||esŦ 1he barre| and frame are the host assemb|yŦ 1he tr|gger guard assemb|y and cy||nder assemb|y make up the rest of the gunŦ 1he GÞŴ100 has been manufactured |n severa| conf|gurat|ons but the |nterna| parts are a|| |nterchangeab|eŦ Þr|mar||yţ the d|fferent var|at|ons have to do w|th barre| |engthţ barre| shroudţ s|ghtsţ and gr|psŦ GÞŴ100s have been produced |n both b|ued and sta|n|ess stee| mode|sŦ 1he on|y other parts that are un|que to a certa|n mode| are the cy||nders when chambered for a 38 Spec|a| or 3S7 Magnum or hammers |n DAC mode|s (bobbed)Ŧ Gr|psť GÞŴ100s w|th f|xed s|ghts are equ|pped w|th compact rubber gr|ps w|th |nsertsŦ 1he ad[ustab|e s|ght mode|s come w|th fu|| s|zed rubber gr|ps w|th |nsertsŦ Gr|ps are |nterchangeab|e between a|| mode|s and are a|so the same as kuger Super kedhawk gr|psŦ 1he gr|p |nserts for the compact gr|ps are the same s|ze as SÞŴ101 |nsertsŦ S|ghtsť GÞŴ100s equ|pped w|th ad[ustab|e s|ghts a|so have a "p|ugŴ|n" front s|ghtŦ 1h|s un|que system a||ows the front s|ght to be changed |n seconds by push|ng |n the front s|ght p|unger and ||ft|ng the s|ght out of the channe|Ŧ 1he standard front s|ght |s b|ackŦ Super kedhawk front s|ghts are |nterchangeab|e w|th the GÞŴ100 and have a red |nsertŦ 1here are severa| kuger and aftermarket p|ugŴ|n front s|ghts ava||ab|e |n d|fferent co|ors or sty|esŦ 1he ad[ustab|e rear s|ghts are the same as most other kuger revo|vers and are c||ckŴad[ustab|e for both w|ndage and e|evat|onŦ Some rear s|ghts have a wh|te out||ne b|ade wh||e others are b|ack or VŴnotchŦ I|xed s|ght mode|s are ava||ab|e |n 3 and 4 |nch barre|sŦ Ad[ustab|e s|ght mode|s are ava||ab|e |n 4 and 6 |nch barre|sŦ 8ase meta| and f|n|shť GÞŴ100s are made |n two bas|c conf|gurat|onsŦ 1he b|ued mode|s are |nvestment cast from h|gh strength stee| and are f|n|shed w|th a hot b|ue processŦ 8|u|ng on|y affects the surface of the meta| so |t w||| wear offţ espec|a||y from us|ng ho|stersŦ 1he surface |s res|stant to corros|on but |t w||| rust eas||y |f mo|sture |s a||owed to contact the gunŦ 1h|s cou|d be from the c||mate or from f|ngerpr|ntsŦ Norma||yţ a ||ght coat of rust preventat|ve o|| w||| protect the surface from rust|ngŦ 1he worst th|ng you can do w|th any b|ued gun |s to store them |n a |eather ho|sterŦ Sta|n|ess stee| |nvestment cast GÞŴ100s are much more res|stant to corros|onŦ In extreme casesţ even a sta|n|ess gun w||| rustŦ A|| kuger sta|n|ess guns a|so have sta|n|ess stee| |nterna| partsŦ 1he except|ons are the spr|ngs where sta|n|ess |s |nfer|orŦ 8es|des the spr|ngsţ the on|y nonŴsta|n|ess parts are the gr|ps and s|ghtsŦ GÞŴ100s have been made |n the standard "brushed" f|n|sh and a sma|| quant|ty |n the h|gh po||sh f|n|shŦ In|t|a| |nspect|onť 1hough many "specs" are noth|ng more than "bragg|n' r|ghts"ţ some th|ngs do have an effect on how we|| the GÞŴ100 w||| performŦ Many t|mesţ specs are borrowed from another f|rearm brand and are mean|ng|ess due to d|fferent des|gnsŦ 1he GÞŴ100 was des|gned to operate w|th fa|r|y |oose to|erances so don't get a|armed |f your gun doesn't measure as t|ght as another brandŦ kefer to the schemat|c when part numbers are referencedŦ I|t and I|n|shť Lxam|ne the overa|| f|t and f|n|shŦ L|ke|y you w||| f|nd scratchesţ mach|ne marks and other cosmet|c |ssues that have no affect on funct|onŦ kugers are |ntended to be a strong durab|e gun but se|dom do you f|nd one w|th a perfect f|n|sh or where the cosmet|c f|t |s up to the standards of more expens|ve manufacturersŦ 8]C gap and endshakeť We w||| start by measur|ng the barre|ŴtoŴcy||nder (8]C) gap and cy||nder endshakeŦ ¥ou w||| need an automot|ve type gap gauge set (|ooks ||ke a pocket kn|fe w|th mu|t|p|e b|ades of d|fferent th|cknessţ AkA fee|er gauge)Ŧ W|th the gun |n a stat|c cond|t|onţ ho|d the cy||nder to the rear and s||de the th|ckest gap gauge b|ade that w||| f|t between the rear barre| surface and the front face of the cy||nderŦ 1h|s w||| be the "true" 8]C gap and shou|d be between Ŧ004" and Ŧ008" w|th Ŧ006" be|ng opt|mumŦ If the gap |s too t|ghtţ the cy||nder w||| drag on the barre| when |t gets fou|ed from shoot|ngŦ If the gap |s too w|deţ you w||| |oose a ||tt|e ve|oc|ty but accuracy w||| not be affectedŦ kepeat the same test on|y th|s t|me ho|d the cy||nder forward and |nsert the th|ckest b|ade that f|ts w|th m|n|ma| fr|ct|onŦ Subtract the |ast measurement from the f|rst oneŦ 1h|s w||| be "cy||nder endshake"Ŧ Lndshake shou|d be Ŧ002 to Ŧ00S"Ŧ If endshake |s too t|ghtţ the gun may b|nd up when you shoot |tŦ If endshake |s too |ooseţ |t cou|d affect other funct|ons of the gun such as cy||nder t|m|ngţ ||ght pr|mer h|tsţ and cy||nder |ockŴupŦ neadspaceť 1h|s test requ|res a "v|rg|n" empty caseŦ Insert the case |n a chamber and |ocate |t d|rect|y |n ||ne w|th the f|r|ng p|n ho|eŦ Wh||e ho|d|ng the cy||nder f|rm|y to the rearţ s||de the th|ckest b|ade of a gap gauge that w||| f|t w|th fr|ct|on between the case head and reco|| sh|e|d (frame)Ŧ 1h|s shou|d measure Ŧ008ŴŦ012" w|th Ŧ010" as opt|mumŦ If headspace |s too t|ghtţ the case heads may drag on the reco|| sh|e|d and hamper cy||nder movementŦ If headspace |s excess|veţ you can get m|sf|res and]or expanded case headsŦ Cy||nderŴtoŴbore a||gnmentť 1h|s requ|res us|ng a kange kod and a ca||brated cartr|dge caseŦ Insert the kange kod |nto the bore and push |t |n s|ow|y unt|| the t|p of the kange kod moves through the cy||nder and contacts the frameŦ ¥ou may have to he|p |t a ||tt|e by w|gg||ng the cy||nderŦ Þu|| the kange kod out unt|| the t|p |s past the face of the cy||nder and observe the co||ar |n reference to the muzz|eŦ 1h|s w||| g|ve an |nd|cat|on on how deep the kange kod has been |nserted when test|ngŦ 1urn the kange kod hand|e so the reference post |s |n the 12 o'c|ock pos|t|onŦ L|sten and fee| for the fee|er t|p of the kange kod to contact the cy||nder face as you move the kange kod |n and outŦ kepeat the test w|th the reference post |n the 3ţ 6ţ and 9 o'c|ock pos|t|onŦ Idea||yţ the kange kod w||| enter the chamber throat w|thout "t|ck|ng" on the cy||nder face |n a|| pos|t|onsŦ If a|| chambers pass th|s testţ the gun |s w|th|n spec|f|cat|onsŦ 1|m|ng sequenceť 1|m|ng |s the ser|es of events that happen from the moment you beg|n to squeeze the tr|gger |n DA or beg|n to cock the hammer |n SA and ends when the tr|gger f|na||y resets for the next shotŦ S|ng|e Act|on Cyc|eť As the hammer |s be|ng cockedť 1Ŧ 1r|gger beg|ns to move to the rearŦ 2Ŧ Cy||nder |atch |s pu||ed downţ re|eas|ng the cy||nderŦ 3Ŧ 1he paw| engages the extractor ratchet and beg|ns to rotate the cy||nder CCWŦ 4Ŧ Cy||nder |atch |s re|eased and snaps up to r|de on the cy||nderŦ SŦ Cy||nder |atch engages the cy||nder notchŦ 6Ŧ 1ransfer bar |s ||fted |nto pos|t|onŦ 7Ŧ Þaw| cams off of the extractor ratchetŦ 8Ŧ nammer reaches the cock|ng po|nt and |s he|d to the rear by the SA searŦ As the tr|gger |s pu||edť 9Ŧ 1r|gger moves to the rear ra|s|ng the transfer bar s||ght|yŦ 10Ŧ SA sear re|eases the hammerŦ 11Ŧ nammer moves forward under tens|on of the hammer spr|ngŦ 12Ŧ nammer str|kes the transfer barŦ 13Ŧ 1ransfer bar str|kes the f|r|ng p|nŦ 14Ŧ I|r|ng p|n str|kes the pr|mer caus|ng the gun to f|reŦ 1SŦ I|r|ng p|n retracts under spr|ng tens|onŦ As the tr|gger |s re|easedť 16Ŧ 1r|gger beg|ns to move forwardŦ 17Ŧ 1ransfer bar |s pu||ed downŦ 18Ŧ 1r|gger p|unger resets on cy||nder |atchŦ 19Ŧ Þaw| |s pu||ed down to reset pos|t|onŦ 20Ŧ 1r|gger |s fu||y forward and at restŦ Doub|e Act|on Cyc|eť As the tr|gger |s pu||ed 1Ŧ 1r|gger cams the hammer backŦ 2Ŧ Cy||nder |atch |s pu||ed downţ re|eas|ng the cy||nderŦ 3Ŧ Þaw| moves up and beg|ns to rotate the cy||nder CCWŦ 4Ŧ Cy||nder |atch |s re|eased and pops up to r|de on the cy||nderŦ SŦ 1r|gger and hammer cont|nue to move to the rear ra|s|ng the transfer barŦ 6Ŧ Cy||nder stop engages the cy||nder notch and |ocksŦ 7Ŧ nammer dog re|eases the hammer a||ow|ng |t to transfer to the DA searŦ 8Ŧ DA sear re|eases hammer a||ow|ng |t to spr|ng forwardŦ 9Ŧ nammer str|kes the transfer barŦ 10Ŧ 1ransfer bar str|kes the f|r|ng p|nŦ 11Ŧ I|r|ng p|n str|kes the pr|mer caus|ng the gun to f|reŦ 12Ŧ I|r|ng p|n retracts under spr|ng tens|onŦ As the tr|gger |s re|easedť 13Ŧ 1r|gger beg|ns to move forwardŦ 14Ŧ 1ransfer bar |s pu||ed downŦ 1SŦ 1r|gger p|unger resets on cy||nder |atchŦ 16Ŧ Þaw| |s pu||ed down to reset pos|t|onŦ 17Ŧ 1r|gger |s fu||y forward and at restŦ In|t|a| t|m|ngť Sw|ng the cy||nder open and |ook for the cy||nder |atch that |s |ocated on the bottom f|at area of the frameţ [ust above the tr|ggerŦ Now c|ose the cy||nder and rotate |t s||ght|y unt|| the cy||nder |ocks upŦ Watch the cy||nder |atch from the r|ght s|de as you beg|n cock|ng the hammerŦ 1he cy||nder |atch shou|d drop and free the cy||nder before the cy||nder actua||y beg|ns to rotateŦ Do the same test |n DA by pu|||ng the tr|gger and watch|ng the cy||nder |atchŦ Aga|nţ the |atch shou|d drop before the cy||nder beg|ns to rotateŦ If |n|t|a| t|m|ng |s s|owţ the cy||nder w||| try to rotate before |t |s re|easedŦ 1h|s w||| cause a b|nd |n DA tr|gger pu|| or a hard start cock|ng for SAŦ A worn or out of spec tr|gger p|unger (part #48) or cy||nder |atch (part #6) w||| cause |ate |n|t|a| t|m|ngŦ CarryŴup t|m|ngť CarryŴup |s a cond|t|on where the cy||nder |s supposed to |ock up near the end of a hammer strokeŦ 1o testţ watch the cy||nder |atch and s|ow|y cock the hammerŦ 1he |atch shou|d drop then pop back up and drag on the cy||nderŦ 1he cy||nder |atch shou|d engage a cy||nder |ock notch and |ock the cy||nder |n p|ace before the hammer |s fu||y cocked |n a|| s|x pos|t|onsŦ Aga|n |n the DA modeţ s|ow|y pu|| the tr|gger and make sure the cy||nder |ocks up |n each of the s|x pos|t|ons before the hammer re|easesŦ An excess|ve|y premature carryŴup can cause a tr|gger pu|| gag near the end of the tr|gger strokeŦ Late carryŴup cou|d a||ow the gun to f|re before the cy||nder |s |ockedŦ Norma||yţ GÞŴ100s tend to carryŴup a b|t ear|yŦ A paw| that |s too |ong causes premature carryŴupŦ Late |ockup |s caused by a worn or out of spec paw| or extractor ratchetsŦ 1r|gger pu||ť Use a tr|gger pu|| test sca|e to measure SA and DA tr|gger pu|| we|ghtŦ 1h|s w||| be a good reference po|nt for a "before and after" scenar|o ¥ou can a|so use a str|ng and can then start f||||ng the can w|th shot or sand unt|| the hammer tr|psŦ Lven a "f|sh sca|e" w||| work for measur|ng tr|gger pu||Ŧ Norma| outŴofŴtheŴbox SA tr|gger pu|| |s 6 |bsŦ DA tr|gger pu|| |s norma||y 14 |bsŦ I|r|ng p|n protrus|onť 1he f|r|ng p|n |n a GÞŴ100 |s an "|nert|a" dev|ceŦ 1h|s means |t |s spr|ng |oaded so the f|r|ng p|n w||| retract after be|ng struckŦ When the hammer str|kes the transfer bar and |n turn the transfer bar str|kes the f|r|ng p|nţ the f|r|ng p|n w||| be dr|ven cons|derab|y farther than one wou|d th|nkŦ If you exam|ne the f|r|ng p|n protrus|on w|th the tr|gger pu||ed and the hammer push|ng the transfer bar forwardţ you w||| get a fa|se |nd|cat|on of protrus|onŦ Noteť a |onger f|r|ng p|n than the standard factory f|r|ng p|n w||| not app|y any more energy to the pr|merŦ If you get ||ght pr|mer h|tsţ |t's very rare|y the f|r|ng p|n but rather the hammer energyŦ 1he protrus|on test |s best conducted after the hammer has been removed and |s deta||ed |ater |n the textŦ Þush offť 1he sear |s des|gned to ho|d the hammer cocked |n the SA modeŦ If the sear |s a|tered or defect|veţ the sear cou|d re|ease by push|ng on the hammerŦ 1o testţ cock the hammer and app|y cons|derab|e forward pressure to the top of the hammerŦ Do not overdo |t or you w||| break the searŦ If the hammer pushes offţ you w||| need to repa|r the sear or rep|ace the hammer (part #64) or tr|gger (part #68)Ŧ Noteť both the hammer and tr|gger are factory f|tted parts and are not so|d by kuger or 8rowne||'s as spare partsŦ Cy||nder |ockŴupť 1o testţ dry f|re the gun and ho|d the tr|gger a|| the way back to s|mu|ate the cond|t|on of the gun when f|redŦ kock the cy||nder from s|de to s|deŦ A few thousandths p|ay |s norma|Ŧ If s|de p|ay |s excess|veţ a new cy||nder |atch (part # 6) may be neededŦ Þarts funct|onţ d|sassemb|yţ tun|ngţ and reassemb|y As each of the subassemb||es and |nd|v|dua| parts are d|scussedţ a "*" w||| |nd|cate a potent|a| prob|em that may need attent|onŦ A schemat|c has been |nc|uded for part number reference on page 16Ŧ C|ean each part w|th so|vent before |nspect|ng or dress|ngŦ kemove a|| greaseţ o||ţ powder res|dueţ and bu||et res|due as you goŦ Gr|psť 1o remove the gr|psţ unscrew the gr|p screw (part #19) most of the way out then push on the head of the screw to d|s|odge the |eft gr|p pane| (part #17)Ŧ Cnce the |eft pane| |s pushed outţ a sma|| d|sassemb|y p|n (part # 9) w||| drop outŦ kemove the gr|p screwŦ Þush |n on the gr|p pane| |ocator (part #18) from the |eft s|de unt|| the r|ght gr|p pane| pops outŦ Þu|| the gr|p pane| |ocater out of the r|ght s|deŦ S||de the gr|p (part #14) down and off the gr|p frameŦ * nammer strut subassemb|yť 1he purpose of the hammer strut assemb|y |s to conta|n the ma|nspr|ng and prov|de a means to push the hammer forwardŦ It |s made up of a hammer strutţ ma|nspr|ngţ and the ma|nspr|ng seatŦ 1o remove the hammer strut assemb|yţ cock the hammer then p|ace the d|sassemb|y p|n (part #9) |n the ho|e near the end of the hammer strut (part #22)Ŧ If you don't have the d|sassemb|y p|nţ a paper c||p w||| doŦ Lase the hammer down unt|| |t stopsŦ Grab the strut assemb|y and pu|| |t out of the gunŦ Note the "offset" |n the strutŦ When you reassemb|eţ the strut must be |nsta||ed the same exact way |t came outŦ 1|ghten the t|p of the strut |n a v|seŦ Use a k|tchen fork and p|ace the t|nes of the fork |n the spr|ng co||s near the seatŦ Þush down to tens|on the spr|ng enough to remove the d|sassemb|y p|nŦ Note the way the ma|nspr|ng seat (part #28) |s |nsta||edŦ It must be re|nsta||ed exact|y the same way |t came offŦ Lase the spr|ng and seat off the strutŦ 8e carefu| w|th th|s step because |f you s||p offţ the spr|ng and seat w||| |aunch under cons|derab|e forceŦ 1he hammer strut |s a stamped part that typ|ca||y has very sharp edgesŦ 1hese edges and the ba|| t|p need to be dressed down so the strut does not b|nd or drag on the ma|nspr|ng or fu|crum seat |n the hammerŦ Use a f||e or Dremme| 1oo| to round a|| four edges of the strutŦ * Ma|nspr|ng (hammer spr|ng) cons|derat|onsť 1he ma|nspr|ng deve|ops the energy needed to prope| the hammer hard enough to detonate a pr|merŦ It a|so affects "|ock t|me"ţ wh|ch |s the t|me |t takes for the hammer to h|t the pr|mer once the sear re|easesŦ kuger typ|ca||y |nsta||s a stronger ma|nspr|ng than |s necessaryŦ A stronger ma|nspr|ng w||| make both DA and SA tr|gger pu|| harder but |t a|so reduces |ock t|meŦ Ior best accuracyţ you want to keep |ock t|me as short as poss|b|e yet reduce tr|gger pu|| to a more comfortab|e |eve|Ŧ 1he factory ma|nspr|ng |s rated at 14 |bsŦ A good comprom|se |s a 12 |b ma|nspr|ngŦ A spr|ng k|t |s ava||ab|e from wwwŦ8rowne||sŦcom that |nc|udes a 9ţ 10ţ and 12 |b hammer spr|ng (8rowne||'s Þ]N 080Ŵ66SŴ103)Ŧ If you choose a ma|nspr|ng ||ghter than 12 |bsţ you may exper|ence ||ght pr|mer h|ts (m|sf|res) and w||| have a much |onger |ock t|meŦ Insta|| the spr|ng of your cho|ce by p|ac|ng the strut back |n the v|seŦ S||de the spr|ng |n p|ace then use the k|tchen fork to compress the spr|ngŦ Þ|ace the ma|nspr|ng seat on the strut and secure |t w|th the d|sassemb|y p|nŦ kemove the fork and set the strut assemb|y as|de for nowŦ nammer assemb|yť 1he purpose of the hammer |s to app|y a str|k|ng force to the pr|mer when the SA or DA sear |s tr|ppedŦ 1he hammer has a sma|| notch on the extens|onŦ 1h|s notch mates w|th the extens|on on the tr|gger to form the SA searŦ When the hammer |s cockedţ the tr|gger extens|on |s he|d by the hammer's notch unt|| the tr|gger |s pu||edŦ ¥ou can |ook |n the frame s|ot [ust |n front of the hammer and see the re|at|onsh|p of the SA searŦ 1he spr|ng |oaded hammer dog (part #6S) |s p|cked up by the tr|gger cam extens|on |n DAŦ As the tr|gger |s pu||edţ the tr|gger extens|on cams the hammer back unt|| the hammer dog s||ps off the tr|gger extens|on and |s p|cked up by the DA searŦ When the DA sear re|easesţ |t causes the hammer to thrust forward and f|reŦ 1o remove the hammer (part # 64)ţ pu|| the tr|gger a|| the way back and ho|d |t there then use the round end of the hammer strut (part # 22) to push the |eft end of the hammer p|vot p|n (part #21) outŦ Grab the r|ght f|ange on the hammer p|vot p|n and pu|| |t comp|ete|y outŦ L|ft the hammer out of the frameŦ ke|ease the tr|ggerŦ See photos on pages 17 Ǝ18Ŧ * Inspect the hammer's sear notch for rough spotsŦ Dress w|th a f|ne stone |f necessaryŦ Do not change the sear ang|e and don't remove any more meta| than abso|ute|y necessary to c|ean up the sear notchŦ 1o remove the hammer dogţ use a paper c||p or sma|| p|n punch to push the hammer dog p|n (part #20) out of the hammerŦ 1he hammer dog p|unger (part #S) and spr|ng (part #4) w||| fa|| outŦ * 1he |ower |ns|de area of the hammer dog |s the mat|ng surface for the DA searŦ It must be smooth or DA tr|gger pu|| w||| fee| raspyŦ Use a Dremme| 1oo| w|th a buff|ng whee| and f|ne gr|t compound to dress the |ower rear surface of the hammer dogŦ Inspect the s|des of the hammer for smoothnessŦ Dress as necessary to remove sharp edgesţ rough spotsţ or res|dueŦ See photo on page 18Ŧ kep|ace the hammer dog spr|ng and p|ungerŦ no|d the hammer dog |n pos|t|on and |nsta|| the hammer dog p|vot p|nŦ 1est the hammer dog for free movement and spr|ng returnŦ 1r|gger guard assemb|yť 1he assemb|y conta|ns the tr|ggerţ cy||nder |atchţ transfer barţ paw|ţ and the|r assoc|ated spr|ngsţ p|ungers and p|nsŦ 1he assemb|y |s he|d |n the frame by a spr|ngŴ|oaded p|unger (part #43)Ŧ 1he t|p of the p|unger snaps |nto a ho|e |n the frameţ [ust beh|nd the tr|gger guard and |ns|de the gr|p frameŦ Locate the p|unger t|p and push |t forward w|th a screwdr|ver or other too| wh||e pu|||ng downward ||ght|y on the tr|gger guardŦ 1he comp|ete assemb|y w||| pop outŦ Set the rest of the gun as|de for nowŦ Þu|| the tr|gger back s||ght|y then remove the transfer bar (part #42)Ŧ no|d the tr|gger back w|th your |eft foref|nger and pos|t|on your |eft thumb over the rear of the paw| (part #29)Ŧ W|th your r|ght handţ pu|| the paw| to the r|ght to removeŦ 1he paw| spr|ng (part #8) and paw| p|unger (part #S) w||| try to pop out and |aunch un|ess you conta|n them w|th your thumbŦ kemove the paw| spr|ng and p|ungerŦ Þ|ace your |eft |ndex f|nger |n the tr|gger guard beh|nd the tr|ggerŦ Use your |eft thumb to push the tr|gger guard |atch |n (part #43)Ŧ Use a paper c||p or st|ff w|re and push the |atch reta|n|ng p|n (part #20) comp|ete|y outŦ ke|ease the tr|gger guard |atch (part #43) and pu|| |t outŦ Þu|| the tr|gger guard |atch spr|ng (part #44)ţ and the tr|gger ||nk p|unger (part #47) out of the ho|e |n the tr|gger guard (part #69)Ŧ * 8efore remov|ng the rest of the tr|gger partsţ test the tr|gger for free movementŦ ¥ou shou|d be ab|e to move the tr|gger from stop to stop w|th no b|nd|ng or dragg|ngŦ If you detect a b|ndţ try to |so|ate |t by watch|ng the tr|gger move |ns|de the strutsŦ Cnce the tr|gger |s outţ you can dress the h|gh spots on the s|des of the tr|gger or the |ns|de of the strutsŦ A f|ne f||e w||| work we|| to remove burrs or h|gh spotsŦ Use a paperc||p or sma|| p|n punch to push the tr|gger p|n (part #70) a|| the way outŦ 1he tr|gger (part #68) and tr|gger p|unger (part #48) w||| fa|| outŦ Þos|t|on your |eft thumb over the cy||nder |atch (part #6) and s||de the |atch to the r|ght to removeŦ 1he spr|ngŴ|oaded p|unger may |aunch so keep you thumb |n pos|t|on unt|| the |atch |s a|| the way outŦ kemove the |atch p|unger (part #30) and the spr|ng (part #8) from the tr|gger guard assemb|yŦ * 1he tr|gger p|unger (part #48) |s a stamped partţ typ|ca||y w|th sharp edges on one s|deŦ 1he nose (|ooks ||ke x an arrowhead) act|vates the cy||nder |atchŦ If |t |sn't perfect|y smoothţ the tr|gger doesn't want to reset when re|easedŦ If the nose of the tr|gger p|unger |s too shortţ you w||| get |ate |n|t|a| t|m|ngŦ Þ|ace the rough s|de down on a p|ece of 400 gr|t sandpaper and burn|sh the s|de smoothŦ 8uff the ramp of the x arrowhead unt|| |t |s po||shed ||ke chromeŦ 8uff the ||tt|e notch under the front of the arrowheadţ espec|a||y the t|pŦ 1h|s |s the surface that pu||s the cy||nder |atch downŦ If |t |s roughţ you w||| fee| a gag |n the DA strokeŦ * 1he cy||nder |atch (part #6) |s a cast part w|th a mach|ned surface on the bottomŦ 8uff the top of the |atch (the rounded part that |ocks |nto the cy||nder) unt|| |t |ooks ||ke chromeŦ A|soţ remove any mach|ne marks from the bottom surface and buff |t smoothŦ kemove any rough cast|ng marks or sharp edges from the s|des of the cy||nder |atchŦ * 1he tr|gger (part #68) |s cast and typ|ca||y has sharp edges or rough surfacesŦ 1he cam surface at the top end of the tr|gger |s the area used to cam back the hammer |n DA and mates w|th the back edge of the hammer dogŦ It must be very smoothŦ 1he mach|ned end of the cam |s the SA searŦ It too must be very smoothŦ Use a buffer to make these surfaces |ook ||ke chromeŦ See photo on page 17Ŧ * 1he paw| (part #29) |s a|so a cast part and may have sharp edges or a rough surfaceŦ 1he top |eft t|p of the paw| mates w|th the cy||nder's ratchets to rotate the cy||nderŦ 1he top |eft s|de of the paw| shou|d be po||shed ||ke chromeŦ * 1he transfer bar (part #42) |s a cast part that a|most a|ways has sharp edges or cast|ng marksŦ Dress the transfer bar w|th a 400Ŵgr|t sandpaper to smooth |t upŦ * 1he cast tr|gger guard frame (part #69) shou|d be "unpopu|ated" at th|s po|ntŦ Inspect |t carefu||y and remove any burrs from the |ock ||p |n the frontŦ Do not mess w|th the sharp s|de edges because they mate w|th the frame for cosmet|csŦ Insert the tr|gger guard |n the frameŦ Note the f|tŦ Cften the factory |eaves the back surface (the f|at area around the tr|gger guard |atch ho|e) |onger than |t shou|d beŦ 1h|s makes tr|gger guard remova| very d|ff|cu|tŦ If the tr|gger guard has to be forced |nto the frame to f|tţ you can f||e down the rear f|at surface unt|| the tr|gger guard |nserts |nto the frame w|th m|n|ma| fr|ct|onŦ * 1he ho|e |n the tr|gger guard where the tr|gger]|atch spr|ng goes (part # 44) |s often very rough from dr||| marks and |s somet|mes unders|zedŦ 1h|s makes the spr|ng and tr|gger ||nk p|unger (part #47) drag and b|nd |n both SA and DAŦ Use a 13]64" dr||| b|t and "hand turn" |t to c|ean up the ho|eŦ Do not try to dr||| any deeperţ [ust get the ho|e smoothŦ Insert the tr|gger ||nk p|unger after you c|ean up the ho|eŦ It shou|d move free|y a|| the way through the ho|eŦ If the p|unger does not move free|yţ dress the ho|e some moreŦ kemove the tr|gger ||nk p|ungerŦ keassemb|y of the tr|gger guard assemb|yť Insert the cy||nder |atch spr|ng and p|unger (parts #8 Ǝ 30) |nto the ho|e at the top front of the tr|gger guard frameţ [ust under the hor|zonta| shaftŦ Noteť there are two spr|ng and p|unger setsŦ ¥ou want the |onger oneŦ W|th the cy||nder |atch (part #6) rounded area upţ start the cy||nder |atch on the tr|gger guard frame shaft (top front)Ŧ It w||| go on about ha|f way before |t contacts the p|ungerŦ Carefu||y use a too| to push the p|unger down wh||e push|ng the cy||nder |atch fu||y on the shaftŦ If you s||p off the p|unger |t w||| |aunch so be carefu|Ŧ Cnce the cy||nder |atch |s on the shaftţ check for free spr|ngŴ|oaded movementŦ Set the tr|gger p|unger (part #48) |n the s|ot |n the top of the tr|ggerŦ 1he x arrowhead shou|d be up and to the frontŦ It |s eas|est to |nsta|| by p|ac|ng the arrowhead end |n f|rst wh||e ho|d|ng the back up at an ang|eŦ Cnce the tr|gger p|unger |s |n pos|t|onţ |nsert the tr|gger |nto the tr|gger guard frame mak|ng sure the spr|ng strut |s |n the tr|gger spr|ng ho|eŦ Use a paper c||p or w|re as a fo||ower and |nsert |t |nto the tr|gger p|vot p|n ho|eŦ Insert the tr|gger p|vot p|n wh||e pu|||ng the fo||ower outŦ 1h|s keeps the parts a||gnedŦ Cnce the tr|gger p|vot p|n |s |nsta||edţ make sure |t |s f|ush on both endsŦ As you rock the tr|gger guard back and forthţ the tr|gger shou|d move free|y from stop to stopŦ Insert the tr|gger ||nk p|unger (part #47) |n the ho|e d|mp|e end f|rstŦ App|y a drop of o|| |n the ho|eŦ * Now |s a good t|me to dec|de on a tr|gger return]tr|gger guard |atch spr|ngŦ 1he factory spr|ng |s a ||tt|e heavy (11 |bs)Ŧ 1he above referenced spr|ng k|t comes w|th an 8 |b and 10 |b spr|ngŦ ¥ou may be ab|e to use e|ther oneţ however the 10 |b spr|ng w||| have a more pos|t|ve tr|gger resetŦ 1he stronger the spr|ngţ the heav|er both SA and DA tr|gger pu|| w||| beŦ Insert the tr|gger return]tr|gger guard |atch spr|ng (part #44) of your cho|ceŦ Insert the tr|gger guard |atch (part #43) w|th the f|at surface upŦ no|d the |atch |n w|th your |eft thumb aga|nst spr|ng tens|on wh||e |nsert|ng the |atchŴreta|n|ng p|n (part #20) |n the ho|e w|th your r|ght handŦ Make sure the reta|n|ng p|n |s f|ush on both s|desŦ no|d the tr|gger a|| the way back w|th your |eft hand and m|dd|e f|ngerŦ Insert the paw| spr|ng and p|unger (parts #8 Ǝ S) |n the ho|e of the tr|ggerţ [ust under the cam surfaceŦ App|y a drop of o|| to the p|ungerŦ Start the paw| shaft |nto the ho|e w|th the paw| |ean|ng forwardŦ Þush the p|unger down wh||e s||d|ng the paw| |nŦ Noteť the p|unger and spr|ng are notor|ous for |aunch|ngŦ 1h|s step |s best done |ns|de a c|ear p|ast|c bag to prevent |oos|ng the p|unger Ǝ spr|ngŦ Cnce the paw| |s |n a|| the wayţ pos|t|on |t vert|ca||y and a||ow the tr|gger to move forwardŦ Þu|| the tr|gger back s||ght|yţ app|y a drop of o|| to the transfer bar |ug then |nsert the transfer bar (part #42) |nto the ho|e oppos|te the paw|Ŧ A||ow the tr|gger to spr|ng forward to reta|n both the transfer bar and paw|Ŧ Set the tr|gger guard assemb|y as|de for nowŦ Cy||nder assemb|y remova|ť Þress Lhe cyllnder release buLLon (parL #32) and swlng Lhe cyllnder ouLŦ Þull Lhe crane and cyllnder forward Lo remove lL from Lhe frameŦ noLeť Laklng Lhe cyllnder assembly aparL and puLLlng lL back LogeLher ls LrlckyŦ 1here really aren'L any parLs LhaL need dressed lnslde Lhe cyllnder so you may noL wanL Lo Lake lL aparLţ however powder resldue does accumulaLe lnslde Lhe cyllnder so you may need Lo clean and lubrlcaLe lLŦ lf Lhe endshake LesL aL Lhe beglnnlng was ouL of spec (more Lhan Ŧ003")ţ you wlll need Lo Lake Lhe cyllnder aparL Lo lnsLall endshake bearlngsŦ * ?ou can geL Lo Lhe e[ecLor (parL #38) wlLhouL Laklng Lhe cyllnder assembly aparLŦ Þush Lhe e[ecLor rod ln all Lhe wayŦ Þlace your Lhumb and flngers beLween Lhe boLLom of Lhe e[ecLor (sLar wheel) and Lhe Lop of Lhe cyllnder Lo hold Lhe e[ecLor upŦ lnspecL all slx Llps of Lhe e[ecLor by dragglng your flngernall across Lhe LlpsŦ 1yplcallyţ Lhe Llps have a llne of galllng on Lhe Lop ouLer edgeŦ 1hese ralsed llnes wlll noL allow Lhe carLrldges Lo seaL properly and wlll cause Lhem Lo drag on Lhe recoll shleldŦ use a flne flle Lo dress Lhe LlpsŦ * Closely lnspecL Lhe edges of Lhe raLcheLsŦ Pold Lhe cyllnder as before so you are looklng down aL Lhe e[ecLorŦ 1he Llp of Lhe pawl caLches Lhe rlghL leadlng edge of Lhe raLcheLs Lo roLaLe Lhe cyllnderŦ 1he lnslde edge of each raLcheL (Lhe slde wlLh Lhe angle cuL) musL be smooLh and free of burrsŦ ?ou can remove any burrs on Lhe ouLslde dlameLer of Lhe raLcheL and Lhe lnner sloLs wlLh a flne [eweler's flleŦ Any rough spoL wlll cause Lhe pawl Lo dlg lnţ make uA Lrlgger pull raspyţ and wlll wear Lhe Llp of Lhe pawlŦ See phoLo on page 19Ŧ lf you declde noL Lo dlsassemble Lhe cyllnderţ move on Lo Lhe lrame LoplcŦ Cy||nder d|sassemb|yť LocaLe Lhe hole drllled on Lhe flaL surface of Lhe crane (parL #31)Ŧ use a paper cllp or small pln punch lnserLed ln Lhe hole and push downŦ ?ou should feel Lhe sprlngŴloaded plunger (parLs # 22 Ǝ 23) move downŦ Whlle presslng Lhe plunger downţ push Lhe laLch plvoL pln (parL #23) ouL from Lhe lnslde of Lhe craneŦ 1he fronL laLch (parL #13)ţ laLch plunger (parL #26)ţ and laLch plunger sprlng (parL #4) wlll fall ouLŦ Þull Lhe e[ecLor rod (parL #11) ouL of Lhe cyllnderŦ Þull Lhe crane (parL #31) ouL of Lhe cyllnderŦ ?ou can accompllsh a good cleanlng wlLhouL Laklng Lhe lnLernal cyllnder parLs ouLŦ llood Lhe lnslde of Lhe cyllnder hole wlLh a good cleaner and blow lL ouL wlLh compressed alrŦ 1hls nexL sLep ls noL recommended unless you have Lhe proper LoolŦ use a hollow shafL flaL Llp screwdrlver and unscrew (lefL hand Lhread) Lhe e[ecLor reLalner (parL #60)Ŧ noLeť Lhe e[ecLor reLalner ls secured wlLh Lhread lockŦ Þull Lhe cenLer pln rod (parL #2) and cenLer pln sprlng (parL #3) ouL from Lhe fronL and Lhe e[ecLor (parL #38) ouL from Lhe rearŦ AfLer Lhe parLs have been cleanedţ lnserL Lhe e[ecLor from Lhe rear and Lhe sprlng and cenLer pln rod from Lhe fronLŦ 1hread Lhe e[ecLor reLalner back on belng careful noL Lo geL lL crossŴLhreaded or LlghLenlng lL Loo muchŦ Noteť now ls Lhe Llme Lo lnsLall cyllnder endshake bearlngs lf neededŦ 1he endshake bearlngs are noLhlng more Lhan washers Ŧ002" LhlckŦ (8rownell's Þ/n 713Ŵ200Ŵ002) ?ou can sLack Lhem lf necessaryŦ Lxampleť lf your endshake was Ŧ006"ţ you could lnsLall one bearlng Lo brlng Lhe endshake back ln spec (Ŧ002ŴŦ003") or Lwo bearlngs leavlng Ŧ002" of endshakeŦ never seL endshake Lo less Lhan Ŧ002"Ŧ 1o lnsLall endshake bearlngsţ puL a drop of oll on Lhe end of Lhe crane Lube and anoLher drop on Lhe fronL Lube flangeŦ Þlace endshake bearlng(s) on Lhe crane Lube and lnserL Lhe crane lnLo Lhe cyllnderŦ uo noL force Lhe crane lnLo Lhe hole or you wlll ruln Lhe endshake bearlngsŦ Cy||nder reassemb|yť ÞuL a drop of gun oll on Lhe end of Lhe crane Lube and anoLher drop on each ball bearlngŦ uo noL over lubrlcaLe or powder resldue wlll form a grlLLy pasLe and blnd up Lhe cyllnderŦ lnserL Lhe crane lnLo Lhe cyllnder hole unLll lL fully seaLsŦ ÞuL a drop of oll on Lhe shorL sloLLed end of Lhe e[ecLor rod (parL #11)Ŧ Pold Lhe crane so Lhe flaL surface ls upŦ lnserL Lhe sloLLed end of Lhe e[ecLor rod wlLh Lhe shorL sloL upţ lnLo Lhe crane and cyllnder holeŦ Look ln Lhe sloL aL Lhe fronL of Lhe craneŦ ?ou should see a hole drllled Lo accommodaLe Lhe plunger sprlngŦ lnserL Lhe fronL laLch sprlng and plunger (parLs #4 Ǝ 26) ln Lhe sloL and move Lhe sprlng unLll lL falls ln Lhe holeŦ lnserL Lhe end of Lhe fronL laLch (parL #13) wlLh Lhe squared sLep lnLo Lhe lower long sloL of Lhe e[ecLor rodŦ 1he curved nose should capLure Lhe plunger LlpŦ lnserL a wlre ln Lhe Lop hole of Lhe flaL surface of Lhe crane and push down agalnsL sprlng LenslonŦ lnserL Lhe laLch plvoL pln (parL #23)Ŧ Maneuver Lhe plvoL pln unLll lL goes Lhrough Lhe hole ln Lhe fronL laLchŦ ?ou may have Lo press and release Lhe sprlng loaded plunger wlLh Lhe wlre a few Llmes Lo geL Lhe plvoL pln Lo seaL all Lhe wayŦ When Lhe plvoL pln ls fully seaLedţ Lhe pln wlll be flush wlLh Lhe lnslde surface of Lhe craneŦ 1esL Lhe e[ecLor rod by pushlng lL ln and allowlng lL Lo sprlng backŦ lf Lhere ls a blndţ you wlll have Lo dlsassemble and flnd ouL whyŦ Pold Lhe crane verLlcal wlLh Lhe e[ecLor rod downŦ Spln Lhe cyllnderŦ lL should spln freely wlLh no blndsŦ SeL Lhe cyllnder assembly aslde for nowŦ * Irame |nspect|on and deburr|ngť lnspecL Lhe lnslde of Lhe frameŦ Look for galls or spllnLers of meLalţ especlally where Lhe nose of Lhe Lrlgger guard assembly hooks lnLo Lhe frame and Lhe lnner sldes of Lhe frame where Lhe hammer flLsŦ 8emove any galls and clean Lhe channels lnslde Lhe frameŦ * I|r|ng p|nť use a Lool Lo push Lhe flrlng pln all Lhe way forwardŦ ?ou should feel Lhe sprlng Lenslon of Lhe flrlng pln sprlngŦ llrlng pln Lravel should be smooLhŦ lf noLţ force solvenL lnLo Lhe flrlng pln hole and push Lhe flrlng pln ln mulLlple Llmes Lo help clean ouL Lhe flrlng pln and holeŦ 8low lL ouL wlLh compressed alrŦ When pushed ln all Lhe wayţ Lhe flrlng pln should proLrude Ŧ033ŴŦ063"Ŧ 1hls can be measured by laylng gap gauge blades on Lhe recoll shleld and maLchlng proLruslon Lo LhlcknessŦ 1he flrlng pln ls secured by a recoll plaLe (parL #31) and held ln place by a recoll plaLe cross pln (parL #66)Ŧ 8emovlng Lhe flrlng pln ls noL recommended because lL wlll damage Lhe flnlshŦ 1he flrlng pln ls a facLory flLLed parLŦ 1o remove Lhe flrlng plnţ you musL flrsL drlve Lhe cross pln ouL Lhen push Lhe recoll plaLe (AkA flrlng pln bushlng) from Lhe rearŦ A coll sprlng (parL #12) ls lnsLalled beLween Lhe collar on Lhe flrlng pln and Lhe recoll plaLeŦ 8arre| |nspect|onť Clean Lhe bore and forclng cone Lhoroughly before lnspecLlngŦ Look for chaLLer marks ln Lhe bore where Lhe rlfllng ls lnLerrupLedŦ Look for a resLrlcLlon aL Lhe area where Lhe barrel screws lnLo Lhe frameŦ lf Lhe bore ls damagedţ Lhe gun musL be reLurned Lo Lhe facLory for a barrel replacemenLŦ Mlnor rough spoLs are noL an lssueŦ Closely lnspecL Lhe forclng coneŦ lf you see machlne marksţ low spoLsţ or any corrupLlonţ Lhe forclng cone should be chamfered wlLh a reamerŦ An 11 degree reamer provldes a smooLher LranslLlon from LhroaL Lo bore and ls recommendedŦ A corrupLed forclng cone wlll affecL accuracy and wlll lncrease bulleL foullngŦ Crane |atch |nspect|onť When Lhe cyllnder ls closed and laLchedţ Lhe rear of Lhe cyllnder ls secured by Lhe cenLer pln rod ln Lhe hole of Lhe frame under Lenslon of Lhe e[ecLor sprlngŦ 1he crane's fronL laLch ls pushed lnLo a sloL ln Lhe frameŦ When Lhe cyllnder ls openedţ Lhe crane laLch (AkA cyllnder release buLLonţ parL #32) wlll sprlng lnŦ 1he cenLer pln rod ls pushed forward and releases from Lhe frame holeŦ 1he cenLer pln rod releases Lhe fronL cyllnder laLchŦ * Þush on Lhe fronL edge of Lhe crane laLch Lo check for free movemenL agalnsL sprlng LenslonŦ lnspecL Lhe recoll shleld cenLer pln holeŦ 1he Llp of Lhe crane laLch should be flush wlLh Lhe recoll shleld surface (+orŴ a few LhousandLhs)Ŧ lf Lhe pln ls flush and Lhe laLch operaLes smooLhlyţ Lhere ls no need Lo remove Lhe laLchŦ lf Lhe crane laLch pln proLrudes pasL flushţ you wlll have Lo flle a llLLle off Lhe endŦ lf lL ls Loo shorLţ a new one wlll have Lo be flLLed and lnsLalled aL Lhe 8uger facLoryŦ A long crane laLch pln wlll prevenL Lhe fronL laLch from securlng Lhe fronL of Lhe cyllnder assemblyŦ A shorL pln wlll make lL very dlfflculL Lo release Lhe cyllnderŦ lf Lhe laLch blndsţ you wlll have Lo locaLe Lhe blnd and dress Lhe frame or crane laLchŦ 1o remove Lhe crane laLchţ use a small hollow ground flaL Llp screwdrlver and unscrew Lhe crane laLch plvoL screw (parL #33)ţ hldden under Lhe crane laLchŦ Cnce Lhe screw ls ouLţ manlpulaLe Lhe laLch unLll lL falls ouLŦ noLeť Lhe sprlng and plunger (parLs #4Ǝ3) wlll also fall ouLŦ 1he screw has Lhread lockŦ uress Lhe crane laLch and parLlally lnserL lL ln Lhe frameŦ lnserL Lhe sprlng and plunger lnLo Lhe laLch and poslLlon Lhe laLch so Lhe crane laLch plvoL screw wlll enLer Lhe hole ln Lhe laLchŦ 1lghLen Lhe screw unLll lL sLops buL do noL over LlghLenŦ Iront s|ght |nspect|onť lf Lhe barrel ls Lhreaded lnLo Lhe frame lmproperlyţ Lhe fronL slghL wlll LllL Lo one slde or Lhe oLherŦ Check verLlcal allgnmenL by maklng sure Lhe barrel rlb ls allgned wlLh Lhe fronL Lop sLrapŦ Cn ad[usLable slghL modelsţ Lhe fronL slghL can be easlly removed and replaced wlLh a dlfferenL Lype slghLŦ use a small punch or screwdrlver and push ln on Lhe fronL slghL plunger (parL #38)Ŧ LlfL Lhe rear of Lhe slghL Lo unlaLchŦ 8emove Lhe fronL slghL (parL #32)Ŧ 1he slghL plunger (parL #38) and sprlng (parL #39) can be removed lf necessary by pushlng Lhe plunger forward wlLh a sLlff wlre from lnslde Lhe slghL channelŦ AfLer cleanlngţ lnserL Lhe sprlng Lhen lnserL Lhe plunger wlLh Lhe sloL upŦ Þlace Lhe fronL doveLall of Lhe slghL ln Lhe channelŦ Þush Lhe slghL plunger ln whlle holdlng Lhe slghL down unLll Lhe slghL drops ln placeŦ noLeť Lhere are a hosL of dlfferenL fronL slghLs avallable from 8uger or afLermarkeL sourcesŦ All Super 8edhawk slghLs wlll flL a CÞŴ100Ŧ kear s|ght |nspect|onť Cn ad[usLable slghL modelsţ lnserL a proper flLLlng flaL blade screwdrlver ln Lhe wlndage screw (parL #33)Ŧ 1urn Lhe screw ln and ouLŦ 1he rear slghL should cllck aL each of Lhe 8 poslLlons and Lhe rear slghL should move up when roLaLlng counLerŴclockwlse or down lf roLaLed clockwlseŦ Lach cllck movlng Lhe rear slghL up wlll ralse Lhe bulleL's polnL of lmpacLŦ lnserL a small flaL blade screwdrlver ln Lhe wlndage screw (parL #40)Ŧ Lach of Lhe slx poslLlons should cllckŦ 1urnlng Lhe screw clockwlse wlll move Lhe slghL blade Lo Lhe lefL and wlll move Lhe polnL of lmpacL Lo Lhe lefL as wellŦ 1o remove Lhe rear slghLţ hold Lhe rear slghL blade down wlLh your Lhumb and unscrew Lhe elevaLlon screw all Lhe wayŦ Lase Lhe slghL up Lo release sprlng LenslonŦ Þush Lhe slghL plvoL pln (parL #37) ouL wlLh a sLlff wlre or pln punchŦ LlfL Lhe slghL offŦ 1here wlll be Lwo sprlngs (parL #36) under Lhe slghLŦ 1o relnsLallţ place Lhe sprlngs ln Lhe preŴ drllled holesŦ Lay Lhe slghL ln poslLlon and push Lhe slghL plvoL pln lnLo Lhe hole and Lhrough Lhe slghL unLll lL ls flush on boLh sldesŦ lnserL Lhe elevaLlon screwŦ Pold Lhe rear of Lhe slghL down and LlghLen Lhe screw Lo Lhe deslred poslLlonŦ noLeť 8lackţ whlLe ouLllneţ and v noLch rear slghL blades are avallable from 8ugerŦ Several oLher sLyles are avallable from afLermarkeL sourcesŦ 1o remove Lhe rear slghL bladeţ Lurn Lhe wlndage screw counLerŴclockwlse unLll Lhe rlghL edge of Lhe slghL blade ls flush wlLh Lhe slghL baseŦ ÞuL your Lhumbnall ln Lhe slghL noLch and pull Lhe slghL blade Lo Lhe lefL agalnsL sprlng Lenslon unLll Lhe rlghL slde pops up and releases from Lhe capLlve wlndage screwŦ Þull Lhe slghL blade up and ouL of Lhe channelŦ 1o lnsLall a new slghL bladeţ lnserL Lhe lefL lower corner lnLo Lhe coll sprlngŦ Þull Lhe blade Lo Lhe lefL wlLh your Lhumbnall unLll Lhe rlghL slde of Lhe blade drops lnŦ use Lhe wlndage screw Lo cenLer Lhe slghL blade by Lurnlng Lhe screw clockwlseŦ Insta|||ng the subassemb||esť ÞuL a drop of gun oll on Lhe shafL of Lhe craneŦ lnserL Lhe crane shafL lnLo Lhe frame hole whlle holdlng Lhe cyllnder ln Lhe open poslLlonŦ Cnce seaLedţ swlng Lhe cyllnder lnLo Lhe laLched poslLlonŦ Apply a drop of oll Lo Lhe Lrlgger plvoL pln and Lrlgger plungerŦ Pold Lhe gun wlLh Lhe muzzle down and lnserL Lhe fronL Lab of Lhe Lrlgger guard assembly lnLo Lhe frame noLchŦ Snap Lhe Lrlgger guard assembly lnLo poslLlonŦ noLeť lf Lhe Lrlgger guard assembly doesn'L snap lnţ don'L force lLŦ Chances are Lhe Lransfer bar or Lhe pawl ls noL poslLloned properlyŦ ?ou may be able Lo poslLlon Lhe parLs by lnserLlng a wlre Lhrough Lhe hammer sloLŦ Cnce Lhe Lrlgger guard assembly ls snapped lnţ make sure lL ls fully laLched and Lhe surfaces of Lhe frame maLe wlLh Lhe surfaces of Lhe Lrlgger guard assemblyŦ Þull Lhe Lrlgger all Lhe way back and hold lL LhereŦ urop Lhe hammer lnLo Lhe sloLŦ 1urn Lhe gun sldeways wlLh Lhe serlal number slde upŦ Allgn Lhe hammer's frame hole wlLh Lhe hammer holeŦ Apply a drop of oll on Lhe hammer plvoL pln Lhen lnserL lL lnLo Lhe frameŦ 8elease Lhe LrlggerŦ WlLh Lhe hammer fully forwardţ lnserL Lhe hammer sLruL assembly ln Lhe grlp frameŦ 1he sLralghL edge of Lhe sLruL goes upŦ 1he noLched end of Lhe sLruL seaL goes down wlLh Lhe flaL surface Lo Lhe fronLŦ Cock Lhe hammer and remove Lhe dlsassembly plnŦ Apply a few drops of oll along Lhe hammer sprlngŦ Þull Lhe Lrlgger and ease Lhe hammer downŦ Sllp Lhe rubber grlp over Lhe grlp frame unLll Lhe blg hole ln Lhe grlp allgns wlLh Lhe hole ln Lhe grlp frameŦ Sllde Lhe grlp panel locaLor lnLo poslLlon wlLh an equal amounL of pln exLendlng from boLh sldesŦ Lay Lhe dlsassembly pln ln Lhe sloL aL Lhe boLLom of Lhe lefL sldeŦ Snap Lhe lefL grlp lnserL lnLo poslLlonŦ Snap Lhe rlghL grlp lnserL lnLo poslLlonŦ lnserL Lhe grlp screw from Lhe rlghL slde and LlghLen lL wlLh a screwdrlverŦ ury flre Lhe gun several Llmes Lo make sure everyLhlng works properlyŦ Advanced Act|on Work 1here are a number of Lhlngs you can do wlLh a CÞŴ100 LhaL requlre machlnlng or skllls beyond a hobbylsLŦ 1he hammer cannoL be purchased from 8uger or 8rownell's so lf you ruln lLţ you're ouL of luckŦ ?ou may flnd a used one from numrlch or LŴbayŦ 1r|gger sh|mm|ngť 8emove Lhe Lrlgger guard assembly and measure Lhe slde play beLween Lhe one slde of Lhe Lrlgger and Lhe sLruLŦ normallyţ Lhere wlll be abouL Ŧ008" Lrlgger slde playţ yours may varyŦ SubLracL Ŧ002" and dlvlde Lhe remalnder by 2Ŧ ln Lhe case of Ŧ008" gapţ Ŧ008ŴŦ002ƹŦ006"Ť Ŧ006/2ƹŦ003" Make shlm washers Ŧ003" Lhlck and lnsLall Lhem on boLh sldes of Lhe Lrlgger beLween Lhe sLruLsŦ 1hls wlll serve as a boss or bearlng surface and wlll keep Lhe Lrlgger from movlng sldeways when pulledŦ lL wlll reduce frlcLlon from Lhe sLruLs and wlll force Lhe Lrlgger Lo make a more unlform conLacL wlLh Lhe hammerŦ Shlm specsť CuƹŦ3"Ť luƹŦ1" AfLer lnsLalllng Lhe shlmsţ make sure Lhe Lrlgger moves freely ln Lhe sLruLsŦ nammer sh|mm|ngť WlLh Lhe gun fully assembledţ measure Lhe gap beLween one slde of Lhe hammer and Lhe frameŦ Much llke Lhe Lrlggerţ you wlll usually see abouL Ŧ008" of slackŦ 1hls slack allows Lhe hammer Lo wander a blL horlzonLallyŦ Look aL Lhe sldes of Lhe hammerŦ lf you see arc llke scraLchesţ lL means Lhe hammer has been dragglng on Lhe frameŦ 1hls reduces hammer LhrusL and prevenLs Lhe hammer from seaLlng wlLh Lhe Lrlgger exacLly Lhe same for each shoLŦ 1hls ls evldenced by measurlng Lhe SA Lrlgger pull 10 Llmes and geLLlng dlfferenL pull welghLsŦ use Lhe same formula as wlLh Lhe LrlggerŦ Assumlng a Ŧ008" gapţ lnsLall Ŧ003" shlm washers on boLh sldes of Lhe hammerŦ 1hls creaLes a ºboss" aL Lhe hammer's plvoL polnL and noL only conLrols slde drlfLţ lL acLs llke a bearlng Lo reduce frlcLlon and prevenLs Lhe hammer from rubblng on Lhe frameŦ lnsLalllng Lhe shlms ls a LrlckŦ 1he besL way ls Lo lnserL Lhe hammer Lhen sllde Lhe shlm down Lhe slde of Lhe hammerŦ use a gap gauge blade Lo push lL lnLo poslLlonŦ uo Lhe serlal number slde of Lhe gun flrsL Lhen sLarL Lhe hammer plvoL pln and do Lhe oLher sldeŦ Shlm specsť CuƹŦ3"Ť luƹŦ2" When boLh shlms are ln and Lhe hammer plvoL pln ls seaLedţ check Lhe hammer for free movemenLŦ 1ransfer barţ hammer and f|r|ng p|n re|at|onsh|pť When Lhe hammer sLrlkes Lhe Lransfer bar and ln Lurn Lhe flrlng plnţ much of Lhe energy ls dlsslpaLed by Lhe Lop sLep on Lhe hammer hlLLlng Lhe frameŦ lnsLead of energy belng efflclenLly Lransferred Lo Lhe flrlng plnţ much of Lhe energy ls wasLedŦ 1hls becomes very lmporLanL when llghL hammer sprlngs are usedŦ ?ou need all Lhe energy you can geL Lo prevenL llghL prlmer hlLsŦ 1he soluLlon ls Lo remove some meLal from Lhe Lop sLep of Lhe hammer so less energy ls wasLedŦ lf you remove Loo much meLal from Lhe Lop sLepţ Lhe hammer wlll ºcapLure" Lhe Lransfer bar and noL allow lL Lo reLracLŦ 1hls would cause a fallure Lo reseL condlLlon for Lhe Lrlgger (won'L sprlng back)Ŧ ?ou can safely Lake Ŧ020" off Lhe Lop hammer sLepŦ lf Lhe Lransfer bar capLuresţ you can remove a few LhousandLhs aL a Llme from Lhe rear surface of Lhe Lransfer bar unLll lL reseLs properlyŦ Ske|eton|z|ng the hammerť Lnergy ls derlved from veloclLy squared Llmes massŦ As you can seeţ veloclLy has more lnfluence Lhan massŦ WlLh sprlngŴpowered devlces such as a hammerţ you can reduce mass ln nonŴcrlLlcal areas and lncrease hammer veloclLy conslderablyŦ 1hls has Lwo ma[or advanLagesŦ 1he lock Llme wlll be greaLly reduced and Lhe amounL of energy on Lhe flrlng pln wlll be lncreasedŦ ?ou can Lhen lnsLall very llghL hammer sprlngs and sLlll geL lock Llmes [usL as fasL as a facLory sprlng wlLh a facLory hammer whlle havlng plenLy of energy on Lhe flrlng pln for rellable prlmer deLonaLlonŦ 1here are a number of paLLerns and Lechnlques you can useŦ 1he crlLlcal mass porLlon of Lhe hammer ls Lhe spur and aboveŦ 1hls mass funcLlons much llke a hammer used Lo drlve nallsŦ 1he ºhandle" of Lhe hammer ls Lhe area below Lhe spur and above Lhe fulcrum (plvoL pln)Ŧ ?ou don'L wanL Lo remove any meLal wlLhln x" of Lhe cenLer of Lhe plvoL pln holeţ or Lhe hammer wlll develop Loo much slde playŦ Soţ any meLal beLween LhaL polnL and Lhe spur ls falr gameŦ 8uger made Lhe hammer very masslve so you can easlly reduce Lhe welghL by 23Ʒ wlLhouL compromlslng sLrengLhŦ ?ou can drlll holes Lhrough Lhe sldes of Lhe hammer or machlne Lhe hammer sldes Lo glve an ºhour glass" flgure when vlewed from Lhe rearŦ When a facLory hammer ls lnsLalledţ you can Lrace Lhe conLour of Lhe frame and remove all meLal from [usL below Lhe spur Lo Lhe back edgeŦ lnsLalllng hammer shlms also lmproves Lhls LechnlqueŦ Chamfer|ng the chambersť When CÞŴ100s are used for compeLlLlonţ speed loaders wlll also be usedŦ CarLrldges don'L llke belng poked lnLo a sharp holeţ especlally lead bulleLsŦ ?ou can chamfer Lhe mouLh of Lhe chambers wlLh an 8 degree reamerŦ 1hls wlll make Lhe chamber mouLh have somewhaL of a cone shape and wlll allow wadcuLLers or semlŴ wadcuLLers Lo chamber wlLhouL sLubblng on Lhe chamber mouLhsŦ Chamferlng Lhe mouLhs wlll noL resLrlcL uslng full power loads nor wlll lL have any oLher adverse affecLŦ use a forclng cone reamer and cuL [usL enough Lo see a cone developŦ 8emove Lhe cyllnder assembly from Lhe frame and lnserL 3 spenL cases ln Lhe chambersŦ 8eam Lhe empLy chamber Lhen swlLch cases Lo expose anoLher chamber unLll all are chamferedŦ Cpt|m|z|ng for |ead bu||etsť CÞŴ100s come from Lhe facLory opLlmlzed for [ackeLed bulleLsŦ 1he bore dlameLer ls Lyplcally very unlform aL Ŧ337ƋŦ3373"Ŧ Cyllnder LhroaLs are Lyplcally Ŧ3373"Ŧ 1hls ls a blL LlghL for lead bulleLsŦ ?ou can open Lhe LhroaLs Lo Ŧ3383" wlLh a LhroaL reamer from 8rownell'sŦ 1hls wlll make all LhroaLs Lhe same slzeŦ lL allows lead bulleLs Lo ºbumpŴup" ln dlameLer Lhen geL slzed Lo bore dlameLer by Lhe forclng coneŦ Chamferlng Lhe forclng cone Lo 11 degrees ls also recommendedŦ CpLlmlzlng for lead bulleLs wlll lmprove accuracy and reduce lead foullngŦ ?ou can sLlll shooL [ackeLed bulleLs wlLh nearŴequal performance Lo Lhe facLory seL upŦ Accuracy wlll probably noL change buL foullng wlll be reducedŦ ?ou wlll lose a Loken amounL of veloclLyţ Lyplcally 23Ŵ30 fps for a magnum loadŦ 8ore |app|ngť llre lapplng producLs are noL recommendedŦ 1hey creaLe excesslve wear Lo Lhe edges of Lhe rlfllng and have Lhe same effecL as flrlng Lhousands of rounds of ammunlLlonŦ uslng valve grlndlng compound and a cloLh paLch hand powered on a cleanlng rod works besLŦ Worklng from Lhe muzzle and Laklng abouL 100 back and forLh sLrokes wlll smooLh Lhe sLrlaLlon marks qulLe well yeL leave Lhe sharp rlfllng ln LacLŦ Lapplng wlll help reduce foullng buL does very llLLle for accuracy or veloclLyŦ 8uger CÞŴ100 uue Lo copyrlghL lssues Lhe schemaLlc had Lo be removedŦ Þlease refer Lo Lhe followlng llnk aL 8rownells for Lhe schemaLlcŦ hLLpť//wwwŦbrownellsŦcom/Ŧaspx/pldƹ0/sldƹ19/schemaLlcsdeLall/CÞ100 Noteť ÞarL numbers ln 8Lu are avallable from 8uger or 8rownell'sŦ ÞarL numbers ln 8LACk are facLory flLLed parLs and are noL sold wlLhouL sendlng Lhe gun Lo 8ugerŦ 1he Lnd ¾¾ff° f¾f fnI °n 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Iowegan’s Book of Knowledge for the Ruger GP-100 revolver

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