Hunza Cookbook

KARA KarakoramKORAM S E R I E S COOKING I N HUNZA DISCOVER THE SECRETS OF A HEALTHY AND INNOVATIVE MOUNTAIN CUISINE FROM NORTHERN PAKISTAN CONTENTS MORE THAN ETHNIC COOKING by Marta Luchsinger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 HUNZA’S PAST CARRIED INTO THE PRESENT by Dr. Julie Flowerday INGREDIENTS APPETIZERS . . . .06 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 SOUPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 BREADS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 MAIN COURSES DESSERTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 DRINKS INDEX The boundaries and borders of this map have not been verified and are approximate only. © Map: Mareile Obersteiner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 THOSE BEHIND THIS BOOK by Marta Luchsinger & Mareile Obersteiner . . . . . . . . . . .76 View of the Baltit Fort in Karimabad overlooking the Hunza Valley MORE THAN E THNIC CO OKING OOKING IN HUNZA is about more than ethnic cooking. It is about more than the cooking heritage of a region in Northern Pakistan mostly unknown to Westerners. For decades, access to Hunza’s valleys in the heart of the Karakorum Mountains (Western Himalayas) was quite difficult, appearing still today as a far away place to most. Hunza’s secluded location determined, among other factors, the ingredients available and the traditional ways of preparing the recipes included in this small book. The platters prepared to reflect the beauty of this mountain desert setting. Here, if you look closely almost everything seems to be shaped like precious stones. The peaks of the mountains share the same geological form as the agates, garnets, and rubies hidden within them. The minuscule rocks of sugar and pinkish salt, on an infinitely smaller scale, are also shaped like precious stones. Quartz explodes everywhere. The mountain slopes and the shadows hanging over them emanate a feeling of longing, as if asking to be touched. In Hunza, it is difficult not to surrender to a full moon painting the Rakaposhi glacier red. This geography also appears to have determined another, yet 04 by Marta Luchsinger Project Coordinators Mareile Obersteiner & Marta Luchsinger The elders of Karimabad are tasting our home cooked meals at the final day of cooking. C invisible, ingredient of this cookbook: the strength of Hunzakutz themselves. And it probably was this condition of the spirit that brought together more than twentyfive women from Karimabad in Central Hunza, in an undertaking accomplished few times before, if ever. These women, who work extremely hard both at home and in their fields, gathered together during three days to prepare the recipes in this book, joining in what can best be described as an ‘alchemical operation’. Alchemy, the medieval art of mixing substances and magic potions to heal both physical and spiritual ailments — if these can ever be separated — is what happened when these women, their spoons, weights, measuring cups, local ingredients and, especially, souls, joined together to prepare the recipes for this book. Indeed, this book is about more than just ethnic cooking. Through it, all of those who contributed towards making it happen demonstrated how working together for a common purpose can tie the strongest knots of human solidarity. This solidarity was, first and foremost, among the women themselves and of them towards Mareile and me who proposed the idea of this project and saw it through. These women are the real authors of this cookbook. Although lacking an academic education, they are deeply knowledgeable about the art of caring for others, especially the less fortunate. The women agreed that the funds obtained would be devoted to improve the health service provision for their community. There also was solidarity from the larger Karimabad community and the voluntary participation of many others who were always helpful and inspiring. On the last day of the cooking feat, the village elders were invited to taste the home made cooking: an ad hoc ‘approval committee’. And, approval, was smilingly granted. Certainly, this cookbook is about more than ethnic cooking. In it there is a lesson to be learnt about how people can work together, mixing good will into a recipe of self-help to improve the well-being of their community. By buying this book you also will be contributing toward this end. 05 the festival related to the Vernal Equinox (December 21). Hunza shifted from an indentured agricultural economy. food practices have altered profoundly during the last fifty to sixty years. and even how far we are from home. the Mir abided by his promise to protect the seed of the Diramiting and life once again returned to the soil and the soul of the people of Hunza. all crops became infected with an incurable blight. This he ordered by decree. threatening famine. to a state-driven national and global market economy. women from the village of Karimabad in Central Hunza worked with a Venezuelan Development Attorney and a German Graphic Designer to document the art of their traditional cooking. So doing. could rid the crops of disease and secure his redemption. the majority of Hunza households were still making the dishes reproduced in this book. From the season this wicked deed was committed.. Few things are more intimately linked. a Mir (Ruler) was warned of a conspiracy against his life from within his own ranks. Repentant. sugar-processed sweets and other delectable were relatively inaccessible. curries. It nourishes a sense of meaning that mixes and mingles with the sinew and soul of our being. They also recognized that some part of their own identities was being marginalized as traditional. bringing to an end the age-old local practice of restricting transit through Hunza while.HUNZA ’S P AST CARRIED INTO THE PRESENT by Dr. The difference was that older people knew a time (pre-1980s). This bread made from germinated wheat flour was prepared during winter and savored especially at Thummusheling. Traversing the valley. as tales without historic dates begin. thereafter. He was told that the Diramiting tribe would take over his realm and that his only protection would be to slay every single male member of that tribe. In creating this cookbook. these new foods were gaining popularity among young and old alike. than food. for example the one of Diram Phitti (recipe on page 67). the Mir’s only hope was to find the sole male Diramiting survivor said to be born to a woman who had earlier escaped the massacre with her unborn child. Following the secession from the Maharajah’s government of Kashmir and Jammu (1947). when rice. how well we are. therefore. In displacing traditional Hunza dishes in favor of Pakistani and international ones. in 2001. you would know the time of year any dish was eaten. Both mother and Diramating son were found. If you were to read the cookbook’s recipes from the perspective of an elder Hunzakutz. as well as its place in a disciplined sequence of annually consumed foods. The Mir was then told that only a seed cast and sown by this child. They saw the timehonored dishes that they offered as young brides relegated to side-show events at community celebrations. In the Northern Areas of Pakistan. the life [history] of those associated with these earlier foods was diminished. more closely implicated. and more sweetly and bitterly sensed in our life’s journey. Women of Central Hunza knew the privileged position of Pakistani foods over their local dishes. the KKH became a thoroughfare between Islamabad and Beijing. A benchmark of these changes was the completion in 1978 of the international Karakoram Highway (KKH). and the change from local rule to state society was quite tasty. Strikingly. an intriguing issue. Just how closely food resonates with other changes in a society is. younger people accepted the various national and global products as ordinary. You would also know folktales to go with different dishes. at the same 06 time. Julie Flowerday H idden from our conscious awareness is a palate of taste governing our sense of well-being and social identity. opening Hunza to extraordinary changes. They did not know the difference. Food informs us of who we are. Disappearing from view was the earlier context to which – both food and women – belonged. Now commonplace in local bazaars. anchored by local hereditary rule (Mirdom). Food chronicles much of what happened in the recent period and brings to view a new awareness of what traditional means. chutneys. symbolically pure and innocent. The folktale connects Diram Phitti’s sweetness to the ‘seed of life’. in the high valley of Hunza.. ” 07 . “ Once upon a time. It is somewhat of an irony to document these women’s cooking as traditional because. older people remembered when there was only one glass in their house and it was customary to offer that filled vessel to everyone present before raising it to one’s own parched lips. knew the difference of Phitti (wild yeast bread) buried to bake in hot ashes and Phitti baked in an electric oven. For the eldest of this Karimabad group of women. they searched for salty tasting earth and hauled it back to enrich their cooking stock. At some barely verbalized threshold. younger people had not experienced the difference. the bokhari (small steel oven) had itself been an innovation. while at the same time raising babies and feeding their families. Mrs. had a different flavor than local sources. They raced against time and shuddered at the tempests of rain and sandstorms to protect their perishable harvests.” Very modestly. Flour ground at a local water mill had a different texture than flour produced by an electric mill. These women knew from their younger years the incredulity of drinking tea five times a day and eating three meals a day every day of the year! They also knew that their simplicity and their different manners sometimes embarrassed young people. She said. so simple and profound were her thoughts. might even be mixed with chalk. They were the ones that made women and their fathers. They had learned to cook at the shee (hearth) with stone pots. older people knew the difference between life under the Mirdom (hereditary rule) and life as it was in Pakistan. husbands. They tended fields scattered up the mountainside. In contrast. brothers. diram signifies the sacred seed of life. Such tales. These Karimabad women. They carried loads on their backs that weakened their knees and cursed their joints. "Thank you for recognizing our labor. Flour from outside. The disappearing context that cradled such stories also included the punishing labor of women’s lives. The traditional underlies life-informing experiences. In recreating these recipes you are honoring the cultural heritage of the unspoken heroes and heroines of Hunza. BON APPETIT! W hile preparing the dishes for this book. from flour imported from China. Tamina Ullah Beg rose and thanked Marta Luchsinger and Mareile Obersteiner. embellished with emotion.Thus. when there was no shuli (pipe) to empty smoke from the single room traditional house. gathering over three days to document traditional recipes. it was said. were told and retold throughout the dark winter nights. Why offer the same glass of water to others when there were glasses enough for everyone. the Karimabad women lamented that their recipes could never taste the same as they did in the past. All. In their ‘free’ time. For them sweetness and bitterness were refined by industrially processed foods. No one has ever done this before. she was saying that the past efforts of older women were not without value and were deserving praise. and this was different again 08 09 . Salt. contributed much more than a range of dishes. sons and daughters happy and well nourished. however. sold in the bazaar as hunks of rock or granulated. as well as the renewal of life itself. The recipes in this book were created out of a fierce labor of love. Yet. On the final day of the Karimabad traditional cooking "marathon” and in the cadence of a celebratory atmosphere. They knew no other existence than living in a nation-state. a younger person might ask. All knew a time when there was only one – or if they were lucky two – cooked meals in a day and when a meal was a single dish sometimes eaten out of a common pot. They added something of their life histories as members of a small community being incorporated into a state system. but it grows easily in the harsh climate and is a very popular herb to season soups and meat dishes. 47. see also page: 62 recipes: pg 37. APRICOT KERNELS are very similar to almonds in taste and used in much the same way as a snack and for cooking. TURMERIC usually comes as a bright yellow powder and is also a downcountry import. a favorite snack and an ingredient for soups and juices in Hunza. most of which are collected in late summer to dry in the sun on rooftops. As rice cannot be grown in the mountainous high-altitude climate. This laborious and time intensive process is slowly being replaced by machines. CORIANDER is not actually native to Hunza. 20. The typical strong taste is an asset of the natural ways of preparing and storing the butter and adds a special flavor to many Hunza dishes. 28. the Tumuro Chai. 33. 58. The sweet oil is the one used for cooking while the bitter one serves as a beauty product for skin and hair. DRIED APRICOTS are MALTASH is the Hunzakutz’s preciously guarded “Aged Butter”.INGREDIENTS a selection of some typical ingredients commonly found in Hunza Cooking INGREDIENT S APRICOT OIL is \traditionally extracted from the kernels by hand. 72 recipes: pg 15. 42. 55 recipes: pg 27. 16. Children often crack the hard shell of the apricot pits with a stone to get to the delicious kernel. walls and boulders. 20. 70 recipes: pg 19. 28. recipes: pg 16. 67 . TUMURO is a native wild thyme which is found in the mountains surrounding the valley. 64 recipes: pg 31. The valley is known for its abundance of apricots. different breads and wheat-based dishes replace rice. 41. otherwise so commonly found in Asia. WHEAT is Hunza’s number one staple food. Other grains such as buckwheat and barley are also cultivated. There’s a bitter and a sweet apricot oil. It is mainly used in small quantities to color soups and other dishes. 51. 61 recipes: pg 33. 23. 47. mostly to brew it in water where it becomes Hunza’s one-for-all remedy. 48. It is used fresh and dried. Measurements and quantities specified in the recipes are merely a guide. Your dough is too sticky? Add some more flour. Play with your food and be creative. Can’t find an ingredient? Substitute it with something similar. APPE TIZERS Enjoy the food! . measuring cups and scales don’t exist in their simple kitchens.The women of Hunza cook with their hearts. Keep this in mind when trying some of the recipes collected here. Feel free to increase or decrease as you wish. Written recipes. garlic. In an iron pan. Chop the onion and the tomatoes in medium sized chunks. INGREDIENTS for 3-4 persons 3-4 small tomatoes 1 large onion 3 spring onions 3-4 garlic cloves 1 strand fresh coriander 1 small green fresh chili pepper 20 ml cooking oil 250 ml water 1 tsp salt 2 3 4 15 . Mix the chopped tomatoes with the herbs (spring onions. This dip can be eaten warm or cold. Add the water and then the tomato mixture and simmer on low heat for at least 10 minutes. Decorate with a few fresh coriander leaves and eat with chappati (pg. garlic and coriander leaves should also be chopped very fine. The spring onions.APPE TIZERS BALOGANZE PITCHU Tomato Dip 1 Cut the chili pepper in half. coriander) and the salt in a bowl and set aside. Add a few minutes cooking time if the sauce is too liquid or add more water if too thick. 37). remove seeds and chop very fine. heat the oil and fry the onion until transparent and starting to brown. APPE TIZERS INGREDIENTS for 4 sandwiches 250 gr burutz (see pg. The Hunzakutz are flexible about the way to prepare a dish—often it is just a question on what is available. Feel free to substitute it with your favorite brand. To get a more spreadable filling mix in some lassi (see pg.37) and set aside. 24) 2 spring onions 50 gr fresh coriander leaves 50 gr carrot greens or dill 50 gr mint leaves 100 ml of lassi (optional) salt for taste apricot oil 8 chappatis (see pg. To make the cheese filling. 37) BURUTZ BERIKUTZ Fresh Cheese Chappati 1 2 Make 8 chappatis according to the basic chappati recipe (pg. Spread 4 chappatis with 1/4 of the cheese mix each and cover with a second chappati on top. Other herbs and spices could be added to the filling. 73). 3 TIP Burutz is basically a fresh cream or cottage cheese. Be creative! 16 . chop all the herbs very fine and mix together in a bowl. Generously brush on top with apricot oil. Add the burutz and salt (according to your taste) and mix well. Cut in slices for serving. take them out for a milder taste. chili peppers and salt to taste until you have a smooth paste. Chop the onions and chili peppers. 37) and set aside. Feel free to adapt recipes with chili peppers according to your taste. 37) 3 TIP Hunza fare is generally not very spicy. INGREDIENTS for 4 sandwiches 150 gr apricot kernels 3 medium sized onions (150g) 3-5 fresh green chili peppers salt to taste 8 chappatis (see pg. As a general rule: Leave the seeds for a hotter result. onions. Cut in slices for serving.APPE TIZERS HANEETZE BERIKUTZ Chappati with Apricot Kernel Paste 1 2 Make 8 chappatis according to the basic chappati recipe (pg. Spread 4 chappatis with 1/4 of the paste each and cover with a second chappati on top. Grind or crush the apricot kernels. In a blender or coffee grinder mix the apricot kernels. 19 . Chamuriki is usually taken with tea but can also be used in main courses by mixing it into soups or curries. add the apricot oil. MOUNTAIN WISDOM Almost identical to Daichuroom is Chamuriki. Dissolve salt in 250 ml of cold water and slowly sprinkle onto the kernel powder. Any traditional edible oil. Traditionally Daichuroom is served in a hot stone pot. Transfer into a large bowl. Finally. Strip the chappatis (see pg 37) into small pieces and mix with the kernel-crumble. salt. like apricot. Dry-roast the kernel powder in a heavy frying pan for approximately one minute.APPE TIZERS INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 150 gr apricot kernels 2 chappatis 1 tbsp apricot oil (optional) 1 tsp salt DAICHUROOM Chappati Crumble 1 2 3 4 Grind the apricot kernels into a powder. which is nothing more than mashed chappatis with oil. nuts or sugar is common in Hunza and depends on the occasion and on what is available. Creating new variations by adding spices. either in a food processor. almond or walnut oil or even melted butter can be used. blender or with a mortar and pestle. mix well and eat cold. mixing with your fingertips until the kernel powder turns into a crumbly dough. 20 . Let it be mother. HUMANE MINA Linseed Paste 1 2 Clean the linseeds by combing through them and eliminate any sawdust which may be mixed in. INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 200 gr linseed or flaxseeds 200 gr apricot kernels 3 4 23 . separating the good grains from the bad grains. in a stone mortar and pestle. Keep stirring. In a coffee grinder or. Add the apricot kernels or. If using an electric grinder. as in other parts of the world where the food still comes fresh from the garden or the field. father. Humane Mina is very nutritious and is eaten with chappatis. We expect our food to be free of such particles. excellent for health. this “combing” of the grain represents a natural aspect of preparing food for cooking. In Hunza. Allow them to cool slightly. child or grandparent—in Hunza you will always find some member of the family hunched over a flat. linseeds are very high in Omega 3. if not available. round basket. substitute with almonds. Like certain fish.APPE TIZERS COMBING THE GRAIN In the West we are not accustomed to “cleaning out” food grains such as rice or wheat to make sure there aren’t any little stones or other dirt mingled in. traditionally. Take off the heat just before the kernels start to burn. you might want to add some walnut oil to achieve the right consistency. Dry-roast (no oil!) linseeds in a large heavy-bottomed frying pan over high heat until they start to jump (the smell resembles popcorn). grind the linseeds and apricot kernels into a thick paste. The process starts with making lassi (see pg. complimented with bread and tea. When trekking in Hunza during the summer months you will most likely come across a shepherd’s hut or summer settlement. Most likely you will be invited in for a cup of tea and get a chance to sample one or more of these delicious fresh mountain products. SOUP S . Strain the water out and there’s your fresh burutz! Burutz makes a delicious. You will see the cheese curd separating from the water. The lassi is then simply filtered through cheesecloth and hung up overnight. Shepherds who spend their summers up on the high pastures have a simple diet. it is also possible to get burutz by boiling the lassi for about 35 minutes on low heat. However. If this process is too time consuming. Another suggestion is to use it just like sour cream in soups or on baked potatoes. Apart from herding the animals. the shepherds spent their time producing these aliments which can only rarely be found for sale in the markets. pepper.MORE MOUNT AIN WISDOM BURUTZ FRESH CHEESE FROM THE MOUNTAIN PASTURES Burutz is a fresh cream or cottage cheese and one of the many examples of typical mountain dairy products. lassi. the Hunzakutz are a hospitable people. 73). It consists mostly of dairy products. Eat it plain or mix it with salt. such as milk. butter and kurutz. There are two ways of making burutz. always ready to share the little they have. spices or herbs. refreshing spread for bread. burutz. INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 30 ml cooking oil 1 big onion. Continue frying for about 5 minutes. Lower heat. Add a pinch of turmeric to the fried onions. cover and simmer for about 15 minutes until the meat is well cooked. mutton is the traditional choice) pinch of turmeric 1 tsp salt 750-800 ml water 2 chappatis. 37 ) 27 .. Add sliced chappatis and cook for a few more minutes. Add salt and a generous 750 ml of water and bring to a boil. stirring frequently until the meat is well browned. Cut the meat in small chunks and add it to the onions and turmeric. heat the oil and fry the chopped onions until they become transparent and start to brown. sliced (see pg. beef or chicken will wor.SOUP S CHAPSAE DOUDO Chunky Meat Soup 1 2 3 4 In a saucepan. chopped 200 gr meat (mutton. boil the kurutz in 250 ml of water for about 10 minutes and set aside. there was a traditional direction to cook onepot-meals in Hunza.SOUP S INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 200 gr Kurutz. The dissolved kurutz will strongly flavor the water and serve as the base of this soup. Decorate with chives or coriander leaves. Stir in salt and turmeric and bring to a boil. Chop the onion and fry in oil until transparent. Cut chappatis into thin strips (see box on the right) and add them to the soup. 34) 750 ml water 30 ml cooking oil 1 tsp salt pinch of turmeric (for color) 2 chappatis fresh coriander for decoration CHAPPATI NOODLES With often only one hearth to cook on. A great way to use cold chappatis is to cut them in strips and add them to a soup as wide noodles. KURUTZHE DOUDO Dried Cheese Soup 1 2 3 4 In a small pot. A recipe to make chappatis is described on page 37. then add 500 ml of water and bring to a boil. 28 . TIP In the West you will not very likely find kurutz. use a splash of vinegar to flavor the soup. There is no cheese equivalent to it. With a spoon or fork. remove any big chunks of kurutz from the soup base and add the kurutz-water to the onions. Boil for 5-10 minutes until the chappati strips are ‘al dente’. a local dried cheese (see box pg. If you haven’t brought a piece with you (kurutz conserves very well). Soon. are little dough nuggets. Bring the thyme-water to a boil and add about 2 handfuls of chappati nuggets (see left) and cook for about 5 more minutes or until soup has thickened. To make them. If desired. INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 1 handful dried tumuro tea or fresh thyme 1 litre water salt to taste for chappati nuggets: flour water MOUNTAIN WISDOM Similar to Tumuro Chai (pg. similar to German “Spätzle”. a crumbly mixture will form and your chappati nuggets are ready to go! TUMUROTZE DOUDO Thyme Soup 1 2 Boil the thyme in water for more or less 5 minutes and strain the water.SOUP S CHAPPATI NUGGETS Another version of quickly made noodles. simply put some flour in a bowl. 72). this soup has medicinal properties against headaches and the seasonal colds and coughs of the harsh winters of the Karakoram mountains. the thyme may be left in the soup and not strained out. 31 . adding water in a sprinkling fashion while mixing the dough with your fingertips. Meanwhile. Pour the mixture into a saucepan and bring to a strong boil. turn down the heat and boil on low for 5-10 minutes. use almonds. The taste will be almost the same. TIP If in season. you can substitute the dried apricots with fresh ones and skip part 1 of this recipe. Remove the apricots from the water and set aside. Add more water if the soup is too thick. INGREDIENTS for 3-4 persons 200 gr dried apricots 200 gr apricot kernels 250 ml water for chappati nuggets: 50 gr flour water 33 . If you don’t find apricot kernels. place the apricots and the water they were boiled in in a blender and blend to a smooth sauce. Then follow the procedure to make the chappati nuggets (see the box on the previous page). Finely grind the apricot kernels in a mixer or mortar and mix with the flour in a bowl.SOUP S HANEETZE DOUDO Apricot Soup 1 2 3 4 Wash apricots well and boil in water for 5-10 minutes until they are soft. Add dough nuggets. Whether or not it should be considered a cheese according to Western standards is a different question. In Hunza it is mostly used to flavour soups and children like to chew it. Burutz aside. the only cheese found in traditional Hunza cooking. something to to train your jaw muscles on than a cheese to spread on a sandwich. As the mixture boils down it eventually turns into a soft sour paste. the Hunzakutz swear by it. which is then pressed and sun-dried. BREADS . Sour in taste and rock-hard in consistency. tending the fire on a Kurutz-making day. 73). The exact recipe of how to make kurutz is passed on from generation to generation and varies according to climate and location. it is better to imagine it as a salty snack. the Tibetans have known it for centuries. The lassi is then boiled for a whole day while a piece of last year’s kurutz is added providing the culture or enzymes that start the process of making curd. Upper Hunza. as it is called in Hunza. KURUTZ A DIFFERENT KIND OF CHEESE The Mongolians make it.MORE MOUNT AIN WISDOM A girl in Chapursan Valley. The process for making Kurutz is long and labor intensive and once again we have to go back to the making of butter and lassi from milk (pg. is. Kurutz. on the roofs of the pasture huts. It symbolizes hospitality and is usually served at the beginning of an event regardless whether there will be more food or not. It is more than just bread and butter. Traditionally Burum Hanik comes with the precious aged butter (see pg. Place the chappati on a heated griddle or iron pan (no oil!) and brown on each side for not more than one minute. rotating and sprinkling the dough with flour helps to get an evenly round chappati that won’t stick to the rolling pin. Slowly add more water until the dough gets firmer and doesn’t stick to the bowl anymore. Each chappati should be about 20-25cm in diameter and as thin as your skills allow. Flipping. Arrange the chappatis on a plate and place some butter in the middle. Sprinkle some flour on a wooden board and roll out each piece with a rolling pin. Chappati dough should be soft. Add more flour if necessary. Bismillah! INGREDIENTS for 8 chappatis 500gr flour 200ml water butter 2 MOUNTAIN WISDOM Burum Hanik has an important meaning in Hunza. Knead for at least 10 minutes. 3 4 37 . 10). Divide the dough into 8 even pieces and roll into balls.BREADS BURUMChappati HANIK with Aged Butter 1 In a large bowl. mix the flour with about 2/3 of the water and start kneading the dough. but not sticky. Roll the dough out in a round shape. Add the milk and knead until a firm dough forms. Use a fork to make a nice pattern on the top. 2 INGREDIENTS for two Qista 250 gr self-rising flour 100 ml water 1/2 tsp salt QISTA Hunza Chappati 1 Knead the ingredients into a firm dough. The Qista should have the thickness of a pizza (about 7mm). Cook on a hot crêpe pan or griddle for 1 min. the Hunzakut kept the dough near the fire in a warm place for a long time until natural fermentation produced the desired amount of yeast. Instead. Cook on a flat iron crêpe pan or griddle on both sides until golden brown. fresh or dried yeast as we know today. 38 . Cover the dough with a moist cloth and let it rest for 30 minutes in a warm place. Let rest in a warm place for 30 minutes. MOUNTAIN WISDOM Even though Qista is described here using self-rising flour it is actually a yeast bread. When the Shuro turns slightly golden brown it is done. Finally place the bread in a pre-heated (250º˚C) oven for 20 to 30 minutes.BREADS INGREDIENTS for one Shuro Bread 250 gr of white flour 2 eggs (optional) 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder 100 ml milk SHURO Festive White Bread 1 Place the flour and the baking powder in a large bowl. Mix in the butter (should be soft or melted) and eggs (optional). Interestingly. Divide the dough into two balls and roll out each piece with a rolling pin. was not available in Hunza until just recently. It should be sizzling. Stack pancakes on a plate and brush each one with some apricot oil. INGREDIENTS for 8-10 pancakes 300 gr buckwheat flour 450 ml water 1 tsp salt apricot oil 41 . Sprinkle a bit of salty water on the griddle to check if the pan is hot enough.BREADS BAROVE GIYALING Buckwheat Pancakes 1 2 3 4 5 Mix the ingredients into a smooth. Heat a crêpe pan or griddle and spread some cooking oil on top. liquid dough. Flip it over and brown a bit more on the other side. Pour a large spoonful of the liquid dough on the griddle and let it cook for two minutes until it turns into a thick crêpe. 42 . pour a generous spoonfull of the mixture in the center of the pan and spread it out to a crêpe of about 20cm in diameter. 3 MOUNTAIN WISDOM Maltashtze Giyaling is the traditional dish prepared when a daughter visits her parents’ home after her marriage. Heat a griddle or crêpe iron and spread with some oil. It is taken with Chai (tea). When the oil starts smoking. Let the mixture sit.BREADS INGREDIENTS for 6-8 pancakes 200 gr sifted white flour 250ml water 30 ml (2 tbsp) oil 1 egg (optional) MALTASHTZE GIYALING Hunza Pancakes 1 2 In a bowl. Add the egg and mix well. whisk the flour briskly into the liquid. lower the heat and bake for another 1-2 minutes. When the pancake starts bubbling. Spread each layer with melted butter and stack. flip it over. . the phitti was tucked into the ashes/embers of the hearth. It stays fresh very long and is still delicious when eaten cold. this Cookbook doesn’t include all of them. is a thin wheat bread. Arzok is a festive bread made with flour. eggs and milk and fried in butter. but other grains like buckwheat and barley are also grown. Traditionally. the resourceful Hunzakut do not limit their idea of bread to the basic chappati. wood is a very precious commodity and conservation is essential. The thick. This is easily explained by the fact that rice cannot be grown in Hunza’s high altitude climate. the reason of which was a practical one: In the old days and even now. Wheat is the cereal of choice. dipped in a hot cup of Chai. MAIN COURSES BREAD THE STAPLE FOOD OF THE HUNZAKUTZ In Hunza. By baking a large bread you can take advantage of the heat on the rather large cooking plate of a traditional Hunza stove. and would bake overnight. it is much larger in diameter. sitting around the ‘bukhari’. bread replaces the ubiquitous rice as the staple food. Surprisingly. as in most parts of Pakistan. Compared to a chappati. probably the most famous of all Hunza breads and a common breakfast fare. Unfortunately. the traditional stove on which everything from bread to tea is prepared. Hunza’s equivalent to today’s common chappati. but not least. there is Phitti. nutritious bread with a crusty outside and a soft interior is also rather time-consuming to prepare. but an array of treasured original and indigenous bread recipes. the dough was put into a sealed metal container and after all the cooking had been done at night. Last. Upper Hunza. the Khamali. which is more of a culinary import from the south.MORE MOUNT AIN WISDOM A family in Gojal. MAIN COURSES GIRGIR ALOO Brown Lentils & Potatoes 1 2 Cook the lentils in 250ml of water for 20 minutes in a pressure cooker or for 1 hour in a regular saucepan or pot. fresh chilies (uncut!) and the potato chunks. Finally. Drain the lentils and set aside. turmeric. Boil for 5 minutes. Cover with 250 ml of water and bring to boil. Serve with chappatis. Cover and stir occasionally. Fry the chopped onions in oil until slightly brown. add the chopped tomatoes. Then. peeled and cut into chunks 4 tbsp fresh coriander leaves 1 tbsp red chili powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp salt 3 fresh green chili peppers 30ml cooking oil 47 3 4 . then mix in the salt. chili powder and the chopped coriander leaves (use more or less than indicated according to your taste). chopped 2-3 tomatoes. add the cooked lentils and some more water if necessary. chopped 3 big potatoes. The vegetables should be barely covered. Boil over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes until potatoes are soft. INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 300 gr brown lentils (washed) 2 medium sized onions. Pour 250ml of water over the vegetables and cook over low-heat. Stir in the pumpkin chunks and the salt. for approximately 10 minutes or until the pumpkin is soft.MAIN COURSES INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 1 kg fresh pumpkin 2 small onions. chopped 250 ml water 2 tomatoes. chopped 1 tbsp turmeric powder 1 tsp red chili powder 1 tsp salt 30ml cooking oil TIP Like most Hunza dishes Hosarye Hoi is taken with chappatis. If chappatis are too much work. Heat the oil in a frying pan. HOSARYE HOI Hearty Pumpkin Stew 1 2 3 Cut the pumpkin in half and take out the seeds before you cut it into bite size chunks. add the chopped onions and cook until transparent. 48 . Then add tomatoes and spices (chili powder and turmeric) and fry on high heat for 5 minutes. get some Naan from any Indian restaurant or simply serve it with steamed white rice. covered. Leave the skin on. turmeric and salt. chili powder. known as Methi to the rest of Pakistan is a leaf vegetable which probably has no comparable counterpart in the West. Check in an Indian provision store and you might find some dried methi. Standing in the field it looks similar to alfalfa with small leaves. Cook for 15 minutes on medium heat. INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 2 potatoes cut into chunks 1 large onion. Add 300 ml of water and cook a little more before adding the potato chunks..WHAT?! Shhikerkutz. growing close to the ground. freshly harvested methi is often spread out on the roofs and sun-dried for later use. add the chopped onions and cook until transparent and turning brown. (see picture on the right) SHHIKERKUTZE HOI Potatoes and Greens 1 2 3 Heat the oil in a frying pan. With no fresh vegetables available in winter.MAIN COURSES SHHIKER. pungent flavor it is hard to recommend a suitable substitution. chopped 1 handful methi (see box on the left). Due to its very special.. Sprinkle on the dried/fresh methi and let it cook with the potatoes until they are done. dried or fresh 1 pinch red chili powder 1 pinch turmeric powder 300 ml water 30 ml cooking oil 51 . the Hunzakutz could maximize the use of their stove while saving precious fire wood. Repeat with the remaining chappatis. break it up with a spoon in rather large pieces and mix it well with the spinach.MAIN COURSES INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 600 gr fresh leaf spinach 30 ml cooking oil 1 medium onion 1 tsp salt 1 tsp chili powder 250 ml water for the noodles: 250 gr flour 100 ml water MOUNTAIN WISDOM The origin of this dish was. which should be well washed. Turn heat to medium low and let simmer for 5 minutes. HOILO GARMA Hunza Spinach Pasta 1 2 3 4 Make 4 basic chappatis (see pg 37). Fry the onion until transparent and add 250 ml water. plus the salt and chili powder and bring to a boil. By cooking the chappatis together with the spinach (which can be substituted with any green leafy vegetable) instead of one after the other. but don’t cook them. Then. The dish is ready when the noodles are cooked. once again. Lay one uncooked chappati over the spinach and let it cook for 5 minutes. Let them rest in a dry place. the need to conserve fuel-wood. Add the spinach. 52 . Take one cake of dough and wet the rim with some water (use your finger). onions. then mix with the minced meat and salt in a bowl. for the dough: 300 gr flour 1/2 tsp salt 150 ml water for the filling: 2 green chili peppers. until golden brown. Bake on medium heat in a pan on both sides for 15 minutes each. Press down the sides and fold over a small rim to seal the chap-shuro. Spread h Ω alf of the meat mixture on the dough (leave a space of 1 cm all around) and place a second dough cake on top.MAIN COURSES INGREDIENTS for 2 pieces CHAP SHURO Hunza Meat Cakes 1 2 3 Mix flour with salt and water and make a solid dough.2 onions. chopped 2 spring onions 1 . chopped 3 tbsp coriander leaves. Divide the dough into four pieces and roll out each piece into a flat round cake of a Ω bout 20 cm in diameter For the filling. chopped 1 tsp salt 200 gr minced meat 55 4 . Repeat. chop the chili peppers. chopped 1 tomato. spring onions and fresh coriander leaves quite fine. MAIN COURSES INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 1 litre water 250 gr wheat flour. The berries are first squeezed through a cloth and the resulting juice is then cooked for hours on a low flame. the liquid turns dark and eventually cooks down to the desired\ syrupy consistency. MULL Flour Porridge with Mulberry Syrup 1 2 3 In a large pot or saucepan. try using sugar cane syrup or honey instead. TIP If you can’t find Mulberry Jam. this delicious. which is more like a thick syrup in consistency. When the natural fruit sugar starts to caramelize. Serve the Mull hot and spoon some mulberry syrup (as much as you like) into the thick soup and serve with a piece of fresh butter in the middle. which grow in Hunza in abundance. 56 . obtaining a porridge-like consistency. Slowly stir in the flour using a whisker. bring the water to boil. Mull is traditionally given to breast-feeding mothers. Cook on low heat until the water thickens. Due to the long time it takes to prepare Mulberry Jam and the amount of precious fire wood needed. sifted salt to taste HOMEMADE MULBERRY SYRUP To make Mulberry syrup fresh white or dark mulberries. sweet syrup is prepared only sporadically. can be used. Stir constantly to avoid any lumps. When it starts to brown. Cook on medium heat for two hours until most of the water is absorbed and the wheat is soft and has the consistency of a porridge. Add some more butter and water if needed. 4 MOUNTAIN WISDOM Sharbat is a very traditional dish often served at weddings and often prepared by men.MAIN COURSES INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 400 gr whole wheat. make a hollow in the middle and fill with melted butter. Stir in the ground wheat. Melt the butter in a large deep-sided frying pan or wok. 58 . add 2 liters of water and the salt and bring to a boil. With a spoon. roughly ground 250 gr unsalted butter 2 liters water 1 tsp salt SHARBAT Traditional Wheat Porridge 1 2 3 Grind the wheat grains in a blender or coffee grinder. cover and bring to a boil. Serve the wheat. To bruise the wheat. Boil for about 1 hour or until the meat is cooked. Cut the onions in quarters and add them to the meat. Add the salt. Add chunks of butter for taste. you can cut the meat off the bone before serving. This helps to absorb the broth more easily. MAIN COURSES SUPPRA & HARISA Leg of Lamb on Bruised Wheat 1 2 3 4 Put the leg of lamb (can be cut into 3-4 pieces) in a large saucepan and add enough water to cover the meat and bring to a boil. The result is a slightly thicker dish called Gur. INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 1 leg of lamb (about 2kg) 1-2 onions 2 tsp salt 500g bruised wheat (see box left) butter for taste 61 . as it requires freshly harvested grain. The best way to pound the wheat without crushing it is with a smooth rock in a stone mortar. now called Harisa with the meat (Suppra) on top. they could be soaked) need to be pounded to release the husks and to soften it a bit more. it will be difficult to recreate this dish. If you prefer.BRUISED WHEAT Unless you live close to a farm. the soft grains (alternatively. and needs less cooking time. MOUNTAIN WISDOM A variation on this dish is to cut the meat in chunks and cook it together with the wheat. Strain the broth of the lamb and boil the bruised wheat in it for about 30 minutes or until all the water is absorbed. Most of the freshly produced butter is not consumed right away. once the house is completed. but carefully wrapped in birch bark and then buried in a hole in the ground. This is mostly due to the butter’s high value and the important place it has in society. it might stay and age for decades. before the head of the family decides: It is time to dig out the good old butter! DES SERTS . the more valuable it is. Prepared in the traditional way from fresh milk. Maltash also serves as a thank you token for a favour. There. Even the arrival and availability of modern factory-made butter could not yet eliminate the labour-intensive tradition of making butter. even a hundred years. butter was a means of money and is still used for taxes today. The interesting thing about the Hunza butter (and you might have an idea if you’ve tasted it before) is. maltash is still a favorite amongst the Hunzakutz. which should be scalded before churning it. that the older the butter.MORE MOUNT AIN WISDOM MALTASH MORE THAN JUST A PIECE OF BUTTER Butter (or Maltash) in Hunza goes back a long time. In old times. It is used to bless the foundation of a new house an again later. Maltash is presented as a gift at the birth of a son. at weddings and funerals. Hunza families who have had a new son still have to send a kilo of butter to the annual channel clearing to feed the workmen. Try variations with other kinds of dried fruits (like raisins. The Hunzakutz usually just serve it as a ball and pick mouth sized pieces by hand. Then grind the dried mulberries (or sultanas). finely grind the apricot kernels (or almonds) and walnuts and set aside. but with all the nutritious ingredients it makes a great energy bar. you can add some brown sugar. This can either be done in a blender or by hand in a bowl. Sultan Qoq is a dessert. If the pure fruit is not sweet enough.DES SERTS INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 200 gr apricot kernels (or almonds) 200 gr dried mulberries (or sultanas) 200 gr walnuts 2 tbsp water SULTAN Healthy QOQ Fruit’n’Nuts Bar 1 2 3 In a coffee grinder or mortar. TIP In Hunza. Mix the ground nuts and the fruits and add 2 tbsp water to make a thick paste. 64 . Roll the paste into a ball and shape it any way you like. dried apricots or prunes). DES SERTS DIRAM PHITTI Sweet Bread Cakes 1 2 3 Mix the two flours and make a dough by kneading and adding the water. Keep turning (so they don’t burn) and bake for 15 minutes until they develop a crust. Spread oil on a flat iron or crêpe pan at low heat. It uses the freshly cooked Diram patties while they are still warm. Knead for about 10 minutes. See picture on the right. fried in apricot oil and finally mixed into a bowl with butter or apricot oil. called Diram Shuro. but are still soft to the touch. 67 . INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 250 gr sweet fermented flour (see pg 68 for more information) 125 gr wheat flour 150 ml cold water MOUNTAIN WISDOM There is a very tasty variation on Diram Phitti. Place patties on the grill and brown lightly. Shape the dough into several round balls (about 3 inch in diameter) and pat them into 2 cm thick patties. Those are then crushed or mashed. This special fermented flour is then mixed with regular flour and used to bake diram phitti. Instead of drying and then grinding the freshly harvested wheat. even though the preparation itself is fairly simple. Only when the grains start to germinate and ferment slightly. yet.MORE MOUNT AIN WISDOM DIRAM PHITTI THE SACREDLY SWEET BREAD If ‘diram’ comes from the sacred seed of life according to Hunza’s oral history. sugar is a relatively new import and is therefore not found in any of the traditional dishes). But diram phitti is a very special kind of bread. the Hunzakutz use a special technique. they are being ground into flour. However. diram phitti was always the region’s sweet dish par excellence and continues to be a special festive treat. Diram phitti should always be eaten with a certain feeling of veneration. More a sweet. the grains are kept moist. phitti without a doubt reveals that this desert is. moist cake than a crusty bread. DRINKS . It might indeed be difficult to make this dessert in the West. knowing the story behind it (see pg 7) and the time and difficulty it takes to prepare this sacred dish. another version of the Hunza staple food: bread. To obtain this natural sweetness. if you come to Hunza. make sure you get a chance to sample this traditional sweet dish. What makes this dish so special is that it is sweet without containing any sugar (as mentioned before. depending on desired thickness CHHAMUS Handmade Apricot Juice 1 2 3 Soak the dried apricots in hot water for about one hour. this juice is literally kneaded by hand (see picture) for hours until the apricots become soft and finally mix completely with the water.DRINKS INGREDIENTS for 4 persons 200 gr dried apricots 1 litre water or less. 70 . or even a mix of fresh and dried ones. For an easier and much less labor intensive solution. Traditionally. TIP You can also use fresh apricots. simply mix the soaked apricots with water in a blender. shelled 4 tsp black tea 500 ml water milk if desired MORE MOUNT AIN WISDOM TUMURO CHAI Wild Thyme Tea 1 Add the thyme to the water in a pot and bring to a boil. a process which looks much easier than it actually is. add the milk. Strain before serving. thick pole called ‘sagu’ and ‘pader’. The second method uses a tall narrow wooden cylinder and a long. When the milk starts to rise. BALINGI CHAI Walnut Tea 1 Crush the walnuts in a mortar or process in blender. there are two methods of preparing lassi without a blender. Serve with sugar or honey. Lassi or simply a yogurt drink. Traditionally. cold Diltar on a hot summer day. One method is called ‘taring’. the stick is moved up and down in the box. DILTAR A REFRESHING YOGURT DRINK MADE IN A TRADITIONAL MANNER People call it buttermilk. Finally. The watery milk or butter milk left at the end is the pure and original diltar. you will know that there’s no better way to quench your thirst. which uses the hardened skin of an entire goat or a sheep as a container (see picture). The herb is especially valued for its medicinal properties that alleviate headaches. take the tea off the heat. 72 . Mix with the black tea and add to the water in a pot. calm nerves and soothe sore throats.DRINKS INGREDIENTS for 2-3 cups for Tumuro Chai: 4 tsp tumuro (dried wild thyme) 500 ml water for Balingi Chai: 8 walnuts. the mix of air and foam turns the milk into Diltar. Traditionally diltar is obtained by shaking milk inside of a goat or sheep skin. Once filled with fresh milk the skin is shaken or rolled back and forth on the ground for a long time until butter forms. Just like churning butter. sugar or fruits like bananas or mangos for some extra taste. Nowadays. MOUNTAIN WISDOM Tumuro or Wild Thyme is collected in the high mountains surrounding Hunza. You can add salt. the simplest way to make Diltar is to mix yogurt with water (about 1:1) and then blend at high speed for a few minutes in a mixer. Bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling. Let the tea boil for a few minutes to extract the flavor from the leaves. Once you’ve tasted fresh. .10/62 Apricot kernels: . . .50 74 75 .34 Fresh Cheese Burutz . . . . . . . . .16 Burutz Fresh Cheese . . . .24 Fresh Cheese Chappati Burutz Berikutz 16 Chhamus Apricot Juice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Barove Giyaling Buckwheat Pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Shhikerkutze Hoi Potatoes and Greens . . . . . .11 Turmeric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 L Lamb. .56 P Pancakes: Barove Giyaling Buckwheat Pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Lentils and Potatoes Girgir Aloo . . . . . .54 Cheese: Dried Cheese Soup Kurutzhe Doudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Shhikerkutze Hoi Potatoes and Greens 50 Pumpkin Stew Hosarye Hoi . . .64 D Daichuroom Chappati Crumble . .11 B Baloganze Pitchu Tomato Dip . . . . .28 Dried Yak Cheese Kurutz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Sultan Qoq Healthy Fruit’n’Nuts Bar . . . . . . . . . . aged Maltash .72 Sultan Qoq Healthy Fruit’n’Nuts Bar . Leg of Suppra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Shuro Festive White Bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66/68 Diram Shuro . . . .26 Chap-Shuro Hunza Meat Cakes . . . . . . . . .58 Potatoes: Girgir Aloo Lentils and Potatoes . .24 Fresh Cheese Chappati Burutz Berikutz . . . . . . . . . . .52 M Maltash Aged Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Sweet Bread Cakes Diram Phitti . . . .14 Burutz Berikutz Fresh Cheese Chappati . . . . . . . . . .60 Lassi Diltar . . . . .57 Kurutz Dried Yak Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . .10/62 Maltashtze Giyaling Hunza Pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Sharbat Wheat Porridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Maltashtze Giyaling Hunza Pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . .66/68 F Festive White Bread Shuro . . .14 Tumuro Thyme . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Chappati Crumble Daichuroom . . . . . . . . . . Combing the. . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Fresh Cheese Burutz . .24 Burum Hanik Chappati with Aged Butter . .10 Chappati Crumble Daichuroom . .42 Pasta. . . . . . . . . . . .30 Thyme Tea Tumuro Chai . . .36 Chamuriki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Dried Cheese Soup Kurutzhe Doudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Wheat Porridge Sharbat . . . . . .30 Qista Hunza Chappati . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Chappati: Burum Hanik Chappati with Aged Butter . . . . . . . .22 G Girgir Aloo Lentils and Potatoes . . .22 W Walnuts: Balingi Chai Walnut Tea .48 Humane Mina Linseed Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Sharbat Wheat Porridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Hunza Pancakes Maltashtze Giyaling . . . . .28 Dried Yak Cheese Kurutz . . .20 Diltar Lassi or Yogurt Drink .11 Apricots: Apricot Juice Chhamus . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Apricot oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Apricot Soup Haneetze Doudo . . . .40 Buckwheat Pancakes Barove Giyaling . . .38 Chapsae Doudo Chunky Meat Soup . .20 Chappati Noodles .INDEX A Aged Butter Maltash . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Wheat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Mull Flour Porridge with Mulberry Jam . . . .32 Harisa Bruised Wheat . . .36 Butter.. . . . . . . . Hunza Hoilo Garma . . .10 INDEX C Chai: Balingi Chai Walnut Tea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Mulberries: Khanda Mulberry Jam . . . . . . .70 Diram Phitti Sweet Bread Cakes . . . . Hunza Spinach Hoilo Garma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Tomato Dip Baloganze Pitchu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Phitti . . . . . . .64 K Khanda Mulberry Jam . . . .18 Healthy Fruit’n’Nuts Bar Sultan Qoq . . . . . . . .38 Spinach Pasta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Haneetze Doudo Apricot Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Shhikerkutz . . . . . . . .10/62 Bread . . . .38 Hunza Meat Cakes Chap-Shuro .46 Linseed Paste Humane Mina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Chappati with Apricot Kernel Paste Haneetze Berikutz .16 Fruit’n’Nuts Bar Sultan Qoq . .38 Flour Porridge with Mulberry Jam Mull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 H Haneetze Berikutz Chappati with Apricot Kernel Paste . .44 Porridge: Mull Flour Porridge . . .72 Tumuro Chai Wild Thyme Tea . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Bruised Wheat . . . . . . . . .34 Kurutzhe Doudo Dried Cheese Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Sultan Qoq Healthy Fruit’n’Nuts Bar . . . . .34 Hosarye Hoi Hearty Pumpkin Stew .29 Chappati Nuggets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Hunza Chappati Qista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Balingi Chai Walnut Tea . . . . . . . .32 Dried apricots . . . . . . . . . . . . bruised . . . . .64 Wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Dried apricots . . . . . . . .28 T Thyme Soup Tumurotze Doudo . . . .73 Q S Qista Hunza Chappati . . . . . .60 Hoilo Garma Hunza Spinach Pasta . . . . . .. . . . . . .64 Suppra Leg of Lamb . . . .46 Grain. . . the bazaar shopkeepers whose utensils enhanced the striking photographs in this book. Marta Luchsinger T hank You. knowledge. there is the Aga Khan Cultural Services-Pakistan. Julie Flowerday. thought and spirit to make this cookbook happen. the Baltit Inn Management.com 76 . who sponsored the printing of this book and. I t is essential to acknowledge the generosity of Matthieu Paley. once again.com/design@paleyphoto. who trusted two foreign women. Ejaaz Karim. Outstanding contributions came from Dr. the hotel employees and the Ismaili authorities. this book simply would not exist.paleyphoto. a graphic designer and a development lawyer. to carry out this project proving that trust works. Without his help. Mareile Obersteiner Project Coordination Marta Luchsinger Mareile Obersteiner Recipes Karimabad Women’s Organisations Layout & Design Mareile Obersteiner Photography Matthieu Paley Thilo Obersteiner Text Mareile Obersteiner Editing Marta Luchsinger Printing Colorline Sponsorship Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan (AKCSP) As promised. Thanks especially to my brother Thilo. © 2003 Matthieu Paley/Mareile Obersteiner www. Salman Beg. all profit made through the sale of this book will go towards the women of Hunza. talent. Last but not least. to absolutely everybody who has invested their time. who lent their kitchen for the feat and its Manager. the Burushaski Scholar who wrote the anthropological introduction. Mr. especially. who contributed the extraordinary photographs in this book.THOSE BEHIND THIS BOOK Shown here are the cooks. community members and project coordinators whose combined efforts made this cookbook possible. All profit made from the sale of this book will go towards the women of Hunza. . The women decided to put the money into medical supplies and an ambulance for Karimabad.