HANDLOOMS AND PLAIN WEAVEAnkita Patel Caroline Muani Hema Apundoley Ketan Dhillon Rashida Tambuwala Ramdev Bharti .HANDLOOM A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving in which no power is used. Warp threads 5.harness 8. Rods – used to make a shed 7. Wood frame 2.take up . Completed fabrica 12. Heddle . Warp beam. Cloth roll.let off 4.heald .heald frame . Heddle frame . Batten adjustment 15. Back beam or platen 6. Shed 11. Seat for weaver 3. Shuttle with weft yarn 10.the eye 9. Lathe 16. Batten with reed comb 14.1. Treadles 17. Breast beam 13. .In a wooden vertical-shaft looms the heddles were fixed in place in the shaft. The warp threads pass alternately through a heddle and through a space between the heddles (the shed). so that raising the shaft raises half the threads (those passing through the heddles). and lowering the shaft lowers the same threads—the threads passing through the spaces between the heddles remain in place. . . . •Hand looms could be set up anywhere.ADVANTAGE •Its give employment a lot. •They could be used to weave very basic . anytime. •One can make and use. with little specialized equipment needed. •No use of energy or power. •Part time work. •It is comfortable. Linen. . wool and cotton threads could be woven on them.•They could be modified to produce wide pieces of cloth or narrow ones. depending on the length of the supporting bar or branch. Time taker.It not for commercial use. Very old tradition. It is expensive. . . Plain Weave . linen weave or taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and twill). It is strong and hard-wearing. used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. then under the next. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbour went over.Plain weave (also called tabby weave. the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. In plain weave. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one. and vice . and so on. or both. .Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and weft are made of threads of the same weight (size) and the same number of ends per inch as picks per inch. organza. Some examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or over and under pattern. and taffeta. A balanced plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like appearance. Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the warp or weft. homespun or taffeta weave. Each weft yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns across the width of the fabric.Structure of Plain Weave In plain weave. Alternative names It is also known as tabby. the plain weave requires only two heald shafts. each weft thread (filling) passes alternatively over and under each warp yarn in a square pattern. . Manufacture On the loom. . This is the most made weave in the world. There are no distinct designs. Properties It is easily produced.Appearance It has a flat appearance. The various color and weave effects that can be produced will be dealt with in another blog. However these may be produced if yarns have contrasting colours or thicknesses. It is relatively inexpensive. warp and weft are present in equal amounts. Square plain weaves In such weaves. These are used as surgical dressings. sheeting fabrics. fabrics for shoes and tents. dairy cloths. warp cover factor is equal to the weft cover factor. .Variations of Plain weave 1. canvas for transport covers and fabric for use as ribbons in type writers or computers. muslin dress fabrics. parachute fabrics. handkerchief fabrics. or in other words. 14% x 93% giving a weight of 130g/m2 and a cover factor of 20. 16 tex x 16 tex. the warp crimp is also high in these fabrics. This is normally achieved by having more ends than picks per cm. A typical fabric in this group is poplin. Thus very faint lines across the width of the fabrics are produced.0+9. .7.7 = 29. warp cover factor is greater than that of weft cover factor.2. while weft crimp is low. A typical construction for a polyester/ cotton poplin shirtings is 50x25. Warp-faced plain weaves In these fabrics. 3. the rate of production in the loom will be greatly reduced. The most popular fabric in this group is the limbric. . which is used for dress prints. Weft-faced plain weaves This is not a popular group of fabrics as it is normally produced with more than ends per cm. When used in both warp and weft directions. 2. The use of colour In the warp direction. . 1. a check effect is produced. In the filling direction. colour stripes are produced across the width of the fabric. colour stripes are produced along the length of the fabric. Changing yarn court Stripes and check effects can be produced by using different yarn count in one or both directions.The appearance of a plain fabric can be changed in many ways. Changing the yarn twist Using combinations of different twist levels and directions in the warp or weft.3. Different Finishing treatment Treatments such as dyeing mercerizing with caustic soda or coating can change the characteristics of plain fabric. different effects can be produced is the fabric due to the changes in the orientations of the fibers as shown. 4. . Voiles are used in lightweight. These fabrics are produced using highly twisted two fold yarns. blouses and support bandages. it is nearer to 9000.VOILE AND CREPE FABRICS These are specialized types of plain weave fabrics. . with the doubling twist in the same direction as that of single yarn. while for crepe yarn. For voile yarn the tex twist factor is generally between 5000 and 7000. semi-opaque fabrics for dress saris and light filters. Crepes are used dress. . . . Thank You ! . Questions? .