VISIT TO GHAR-E-HIRA (The Holy Cave near Makkah), A UNIQUE FIELDWORK OF MY LIFE by Nusrat Kamal SiddiquiGeneral Manager Exploration New Horizon Exploration and Production Limited (NHEPL) Ph: 92-(021) 56833901-3 (O) , (021) 5855662 (R) Cell: 0332-2105522 E-mail:
[email protected] [email protected] Nusr at K. Siddi qui Digitally signed by Nusrat K. Siddiqui DN: cn=Nusrat K. Siddiqui, c=PK, email=nusrat. kamal@gmail. com Date: 2010.11.14 23:34:18 +05'00' ABSTRACT Ghar-e-Hira, the holy cave where the last Prophet Muhammad (SAW) used to go for meditation and solace and where he eventually received God’s first revelation (Wahi) in 610 AD, is situated atop a hill aptly named Jabal Al-Noor (the mount of the Divine Light). The mount itself is present at a distance of about 5 km northeast of Ka’aba which is situated in the holy city of Makkah in Saudi Arabia. Western half of Saudi Arabia, in geological terms, represents the so called ‘Shield Area’ where the basement, consisting of igneous and metamorphic rocks, is exposed which, at places, is overlain by lava flows. However, the eastern half represents world’s most prolific sedimentary basin containing 25% of the global oil reserves which is extremely cheap to exploit too. Deserts generally represent the Saudi terrain whereas in the western part low relief mountains rise from the flat desert. At places batholiths of acidic / intermediate rocks penetrate these hills, which being resistant to weathering, stand out and occupy the highest point. Holy Ka’aba in Makkah is located in a depression surrounded by hills composed of igneous rocks. Jabal Al-Noor is one such mountain where a flattened-head batholith of granodioritic composition rises vertically through its central part. The cave is located on the southwestern edge of the batholith and is not a cave in its true geological sense. It is rather a perfect arrangement of steeply dipping large blocks of rectangular shape. A tapering cavity has developed between this setting of joint blocks to give it a shape of a small triangular cave which is pointing exactly in the direction of Ka’aba, while Qibla-e-Awwal i.e. Baitul Maqdas (Masjid-e-Aqsa) is situated in the opposite direction to the north. I did offer my prayers but could not resist the temptation to look at the cave with the eye of a geologist, a surveyor and also in terms of its archeological importance / historical background. The paper discusses the geology of the region, orientation of axis of the cave with reference to Ka’aba and to the sun trajectory, being a perfect retreat and safe, fully ventilated and sunny, a rock type which is immune to weathering etc., in detail. The perfection of the location, an environment superbly suited for meditation and the orientation of the cave, all made me think whether or not the cave was custom-made by God who Himself guided the holy Prophet (SAW) towards it to prepare him for the enormous responsibilities he was destined to undertake. INTRODUCTION I am a geologist and have been undertaking geological field trips since early 1960s, first as a student and later as a professional geologist, both in Pakistan as well as abroad. I first visited Saudi Arabia in 1977 (Umra) and 1978 (Haj) along with my wife Farkhanda, but on both the occasions was somehow unable to visit Ghar-e-Hira (the Cave of Hira), which I regretted ever since. I used to think that for the sake of my profession I have always been climbing mountains, and why I did not climb Jabal Al-Noor, on top of which the most important cave in Prophet’s life is situated, where he received the first revelation (Wahi) of God. Fortunately in 1998 again I had the opportunity to visit Saudi Arabia. The timing was perfect as all of my family members were free at the same time a rare occasion, and so this time I performed the Umra along with my four kids and wife. We arrived in Jeddah/Makkah Al-Mukarramah on 18th December, 1998 and the Ramazan in Saudia started on 19th (1st Ramazan, 1419 Hijra). It was the very last day of 1998 when I along with my eldest son Atif had the opportunity to climb the hill, aptly named as Jabal Al-Noor (the mountain of Divine Light), on top of which the Holy Cave is situated. My objective was not only religious. It also had historical, archeological and geological aspects. The map attached as Figure-1 shows the area around Haram ( the Ka’aba precinct) and the relative position of Ghar-e-Hira and Ghar-e-Thaur. 1 His phenomenal achievements are not possible by any other human being. Hart (1978) ranks the Prophet (SAW) on top of the hundred most influential personalities of the history and justifies his selection by the following statement.A. is not a religion but Deen . which may not strictly be religious only. at Hira.e. Prophet’s (SAW) life covers a full spectrum. revealing those facets of the ‘Insan-e Kamil’ (the most perfect human being). But at the same time we do not have any excuse. Nevertheless. 1988 i. twenty four hours of each single breathing day. what a human being could possibly do in ones life. Z. seemed to have passed just like that and following narration is what caused the time to pass so quickly: 2 . But Islam. shown on the top (modified after Farsi.We remained at the cave for about three hours. what so ever. 1409 Hijra) The time. as our Nabi (Messenger) was first a human being. Fig-1: The map of Makkah and surrounding areas. But the longer I stayed there the more thoughts kept coming to my mind which made me realize more and more about the greatness of the Prophet (SAW). only with a perfection to the hilt. offered Nawafil (prayers) as and when it was possible and calmly recited ‘Duroods’ (pray for Prophet). Michael H. Relative locations of Ghar-e-Hira and Ghar-e-Thaur are highlighted with dashed arrows and orientation of joints. that we can not at least emulate the life he passed. He was born in a most backward and desolate place on earth. at the cave. on the other hand. or following the five Rukuns (pillars) of Islam but each and every action covering the entire life. To be a Momin (true Muslim) is a perpetual state of ibadat (prayers/allegiance to God) and ibadat in Deen is not just praying. only to a fabulous perfection.a way of life. the influence of which is still powerful and pervasive around the world. and I quote -‘ It is this unparalleled combination of secular and religious influence which I feel entitles Muhammad to be considered the most influential single figure in human history’. Though our Prophet’s (SAW) life was an exception in a sense that it was a unique example of what could be humanly possible. he promulgated a religion and law. Jabal Al-Noor is one such hill where a flattened-head batholith rises vertically through its central part (Fig-3). which being resistant to weathering occupy the highest point. rocks. with localized lava flows. Note the verticaly protruding batholith through the centre of mountain. are exposed in the form of hills and medium size mountains. Fig-3: Jabal Al-Noor (the Mountain of Divine Light). 1980). 3 . Note the presence of Arabian Shield in the western part where Makkah & Madina are located (modified after ARAMCO. rising from the desert sand. At places batholiths comprising of acidic / intermediate rocks penetrate these hills.GEOLOGY Western Saudi Arabia represents the so called ‘Shield Area’ (Fig-2) where igneous and metamorphic Fig-2: Geological Map of Arabian Peninsula. It gets steeper where the batholith starts. The steep slope is littered with fresh angular boulders. The mountaintop is about 550. The cave’s mouth is of triangular shape and as if a triangular conical piece of rock has been taken out to create a small cavity which tapers towards southwest. 4 . the development in the region had started and now the residential areas have reached the foothills. across a hilly terrain. The joints strike at a bearing of about 40 degrees north and dip at an angle of 55-60 degrees towards northwest (55-60 / 310 degrees). and have cut or built stairs along the zigzag path. Note the concentration of World’s 55% Oil reserves around the Persian Gulf (modified after IPE. JABAL AL-NOOR (The Mountain of Divine Light) The mountain (Fig-3) is located about 5 km northeast of the Ka’aba (Fig-1). Iraq. It is rather a perfect arrangement of steeply dipping large blocks. The four countries around the northern periphery of the Gulf namely Saudia. for people to see it with ease.The cave is located on the southwestern edge of the batholith and is not a cave in its true geological sense. We bypassed the stairs and tried to walk along the slope littered with boulders. But these countries. Locals have marked the access route by white lime. which makes climbing difficult. lack the prudent utilization of the oil weapon. All the hydrocarbon fields of Saudia are in the eastern part of the country. for propagation of His religion. It seems that this geometrical setting of the joint blocks had remained undisturbed for geological times and has continued to do so since the times of the Prophet (SAW). as these stairs were not there when the Prophet (SAW) used to go up so frequently. since Biblical times. right in the direction of Ka’aba (the first home of God). The mountain can be reached by following the Al-Sail Road which goes towards Riyadh. The fresh rock is devoid of any soft material along the rugged joint surfaces and hence the rainwater could not allow any movement within the joint blocks.600m above sea level with a local relief of about 200m. 2000). The God Almighty has been very kind to the land He chose. Fig-4: Middle East Oil Map. Whereas Saudi Arabia alone contains more than 25 percent (261 billion barrels) of the world reserves. Iran and Kuwait contain about 55% of the world’s known oil reserves of 1. THE SAUDI OIL In the above mentioned regional geological setting the prolific oil bearing sedimentary basins of Saudia fall on the eastern side of the country. Only in the mid 20th century. earthquakes do not occur which may disturb the juxtaposed joint blocks. The ‘Shield Areas’ are the most stable regions of the earth’s crust and. 2000). therefore. Access The easier access to the cave is from the southeastern slope of Jabal Al-Noor. which must have been barren 1400 years ago.016 billion barrels (IPE. onshore and all along the Persian Gulf (Fig-4). after the oil boom. as the crow flies. unfortunately. rectangular in shape and dislocated along the jointing system. leaving a single narrow opening (Fig-6) through which one can squeeze to the other side (Fig-7). the edge of which is visible 5 . During our stay at the cave for about three hours I saw men. The high rock face to the left prevents the sunrays. of Jabal Al-Noor. and some even getting their video made while praying. To the left i. Some of them reciting prayers in loud monotone. The roof tapers towards southwest and the maximum length of the conical cavity is no more than a couple of meters. and took the photograph (Fig-5). where now cement stairs are present. Description of the Cave As mentioned earlier the cave’s mouth is of triangular shape. where one can take rest by stretching legs and reclining on the sloping surface. and groups of people arriving and leaving. that holy place is not just for the religious rituals. It is very difficult to be seen from below. As one reaches the top and walks towards southwest.75m high witha base of about one meter. from top of a cliff. is a from falling inside the cave. southeast. Someone has Fig-5: The view of the cave from the top of the 8m high cliff. The top of the hill is somewhat flattened and one can not see the cave immediately after reaching the top from the southern slope. and so far from Makkah Al-Mukarramah. It took us about 40 minutes. located to the Misbahuddin Shakeel. to reach the top. perfect retreat. women both old & young. We reached the starting point at about 06:35 am and started the climb. a U-shaped cut with about 8m vertical drop in northeastern and about 4m on the opposite side comes in the way. like the back of an easy chair. as I would dare to explain later. which also shows the edge of the 8m high cliff facing the cave’s mouth. 1996). the apex of which is no more than 1. a place so perfectly designed could be found. Depending upon season the taxi would cost Saudi Riyals 10-20 to be dropped on the road side at the southeastern slope of Jabal Al-Noor . left. and finds himself Fig-6: The large boulders fallen in the U-shaped cut and the single opening which right in front of the mouth of leads to an open space on the other side. The cut itself is about 2m wide with a flat floor. In the middle of this cut large boulders have fallen. which extends right across the hill. as many Nawafil (prayers) as possible. but also to think about ‘why’ and ‘how’. The cave comes in view from the top of the 8m high vertical face of the U-shaped cut (Fig-5). GHAR-E-HIRA (The Cave of Hira) The cave.The best time to plan a visit to the cave is immediately after the Fajar prayers. even if one walks all around the mountain. To the right (northwest) there is a 120 x 50 x 30 cm flat ledge with a nicely sloping smooth boulder at the outer end. disturbing others and trying to offer. out of their turn. a narrow depression (like that for an incipient stream) in the steep rock face. where the cave is located to the left (after the holy cave. Quite a few just came and left after offering a couple of Nawafil. situated on top in the foreground. with two rests in between.e. leads the way to the floor of the U-shaped cut. in the forenoon. It was 07:17 am when I saw the cave for the first time. To me. But the more I observed the cave the more flabbergasted I got. and difficult to reach even if it is visible right in front. Before the Hijrah (The Gracious Emigration) to Madina in 622 AD the Prophet (SAW) used to lead the prayers by standing before the southern wall of the Ka’aba. Being a perfect retreat. Bait-ul-Maqdas was kept as the Qibla for the first two years as under: Qibla-e-Awwal vs Qibla-e-Sani It may be noted that God initially ordered for Baitul Maqdas (Masjid-e-Aqsa) to be the Qibla (the direction Muslims face to pray) for offering the prayers. Fully ventilated and sunny iv. I probably had the part answer that the Prophet (SAW) required complete isolation for meditation and a place away from his enemies. over the existing conditions in the region and within Makkah itself while staying in the complete isolation of the cave. Only a man of medium height can stand just inside the mouth. After reaching Madina the prayers were still continued to be offered. by facing Baitul Maqdas. The Prophet (SAW) continued to pray for Fig-7: The large size boulders and the two narrow exists (A & B) on the other side of the change of Qibla during Fig-6. Only a lean person can this entire period which was squeeze through the boulders. The cave itself is located to the right (not in picture). which is in northwest of Madina. At times he is said to have spent entire month of Ramazan in the cave. thereby keeping Ka’aba and Baitul Maqdas both in front. ii. because of the following: i. Reportedly the Prophet (SAW) was leading the Zohar or Asar prayer 6 . should not have been done to keep the original looks. These kinds of thoughts made me ponder about why such a place was chosen by the Prophet (SAW). Its orientation with reference to Ka’aba and to the sun trajectory. Similarly only a lean person can squeeze through the boulders (Fig-6 & 7) fallen into the U-shaped cut. whereas Makkah is located to the south. eventually done through a revelation (Wahi) in 623-24 AD. He may have meditated. I think. for another 18-24 months. The Prophet (SAW) had been visiting the place for a much longer time (reportedly twenty years) before the first revelation in 610 AD at his mature age of 40 years. The floor of the cave has also been covered with the same tiles. ORIENTATION OF THE GHAR Before dealing with this aspect I would like to explain that even after the advent of Islam in 610 AD. Right at the tip of the cavity there is a square shaped raised block where one can sit to ponder in complete isolation (Fig-8). A rock type which is immune to weathering. deliberated.covered the ledge with white tiles which. iii. He must have thought also about how to eliminate the deep-rooted evils in the society and get the Ka’aba cleansed of the idols and the wrong doings around it. otherwise one will have to stand out for offering his prayers. The famous incidence of the Wahi ordering the change of Qibla towards Makkah Al-Mukarramah occurred in 2nd Hijra in a mosque now known as Masjid-e-Qiblatain (the mosque of two Qiblas). particularly in such a dry weather. i. pondered. cogitated and mused. and as they say for diamonds the ‘Granites are forever’ (the term Granite is being used in a general sense). These have resulted in topographical changes and construction of high rise buildings all around. protecting it from the direct sunrays in the forenoon.e. which is at right angle to the axis. the record of which is available with me. which changed the topography. in Karachi on the seaside. the direction in which the cave is also located at a bearing of 41 degrees and at a distance of about 5 km from Ka’aba’. I live Fig-8: The full view of cave’s inside. Now the elevation of the cave is around 550-600m whereas the Ka’aba itself is situated at an elevation of 330m above sea level. just to the right of the cave’s axis which later I found to be those of Bab Al-Fatah (The Gate of Victory). Towards east the mountain is higher. The present Custodian of Haramain Al-Shareefain has really put his heart and soul into the job to bring about the most desirable and practical changes. The latest and the most fabulous renovations which changed the surrounding topography have been undertaken over a period of 10 long years. which hinders the view. ranges from a minimum of 240 degrees in winter to a maximum of 300 degrees in the summer. The bearing of the setting sun. Then. however. have a very comfortable stay due to these changes. But now the northern Mehrab has been replaced by a large marble plaque warning the pilgrims. curiosity I used to take the bearing of the 1998). Keeping the above in mind it just occurred to me to find the orientation of the cave. in different languages including Urdu. while in the afternoon the sunrays can not fall inside the mouth. For the sake of Note the square shaped raised block at the very tip (after Tarik Jan. including Saee around the Muta’f itself. and the moment I looked at the horizon I could see the minarets of the Haram. which is present right in the middle of the Haram’s premises. setting sun frequently and particularly on the shortest day (22 December) and the longest day (21 June). may be from as late as 1940s (AD). towards the Murva end of the Saee. during the Turkish rule and later during the Saudi Dynasty continuous changes have been undergoing since mid-50s wherein the Muta’f (the open area around Ka’aba) has been enlarged along with a very large double story covered area. In this topographical setting whether the Ka’aba could have been visible in those days can be deciphered with the help of topographical maps. Sun trajectory The cave is oriented in a northeast southwest direction with its mouth opening northwards. from 1984 to 1994 AD. and completed the prayer without any break. for Karachi. follows a bearing of 311 degrees. not to pray in that direction. by His Majesty King Fahad. because the major construction phases in and around Makkah. which is more than 2 million during Haj season. The present influx of pilgrims.when the Wahi came and he had to turn around and walk to the opposite wall. The implementation of this gigantic and unique project has completely changed the complexion of both Haram Al-Sharif and the Masjid Al-Nabawi (Prophet’s mosque in Madina) in terms of beauty and the facilities combined. This setting makes the cave’s axis to be exactly in the direction of the Ka’aba itself. Makkah is located at the Latitude of 21 degree 25 minutes and Karachi at Latitude 24 degrees 47 minutes. barely visible in the hazy morning. As late as 1978 the mosque still had two Mehrabs (arched niche) on both the northern and southern walls of the mosque. which every one followed. In this setting the measurements at Karachi 7 . did not happen before 1950s (AD). Now the axis of the cave is oriented at a bearing of 221 degrees and hence the mouth of the cave. It may be noted that the Ka’aba is located in a depression surrounded by a ring of high hills except in the northeastern side i. Urban development around Ka’aba Not much had changed since the first walls were constructed around the Ka’aba by Abbasi Khulafa sometimes in the 8th century AD. The floor is covered with white tiles. ii. except the difficult to be seen narrow opening which provides access to the cave located on the other side of the boulders. Another thought which kept on striking me at that place was the feeling that ‘it all started here. even on the longest day would not fall in the mouth. all other holy places in Saudia particularly the Haram Sharif and Masjid Al-Nabawi have largely changed to accommodate the everincreasing number of pilgrims. iii. Fig-9: Inside view of the cave. from southern side. the earth movements are unlikely to happen to collapse the blocks which are juxtaposed without any cementing material (Fig-9). unless one walks to the eastern cliff of the U-shaped cut (Fig-5). Beyond that point the approach to the cave is further complicated by the steep slope (without the present cement stairs) and the large boulders which fill the U-shaped cut completely (Fig-6). Maidan-e-Uhad. 8 . At that time all of them were invariably situated in uninhibited areas. and they are now quite different from what I had in mind. when the Prophet (SAW) left the place after receiving the first ‘Wahi’ (Fig-10) in 610 AD. Maidan-e-Khandaq in Madina Al-Munawwara . It had remained unaltered ever since and has retained its originality.can be applied to the cave and. A PERFECT RETREAT The cave represents a perfect retreat. therefore the sun rays. This is another uniqueness of the place that the advent of Islam was right from this place. in geological sense. iv. if one reaches the top even then it can not be seen immediately. it all started here’. So the cave is likely to be there till the very end of the world. These type of rocks are one of the strongest rock types and particularly in such an arid climate would last for ever. Masjid-e-Quba. VENTILATED AND SUNNY The rectangular blocks of fresh rock have juxtaposed in such a manner that narrow slits and openings are present (Fig-9). Note the absence of cementing But now within a lapse of about twenty material along the contacts of joint blocks leaving openings for years most of them have completely ventilation. Similarly I had the opportunity to visit Ziaraat (religious historical places) in 1978 as well. In contrast. particularly Masjid-e-Qiblatain. still retaining their old looks and rising from the desert and rocky terrain. A UNIQUE HOLY PLACE OF ISLAM A unique feature of the holy cave is that it is the most authentic place where the Prophet (SAW) passed a very critical period of his life. different looks with macadamized roads and urbanized land all around. It is difficult to be seen from below by a person who even tries to look for it. and Ghar-e-Hira. which make the cave ventilated and allow the sun beams to fall inside in the afternoon. ‘GRANITES ARE FOREVER’ (the term Granite is being used in general sense) Being a ‘Shield Area’. After a difficult / steep climb. Ghar-e-Thaur foothills in the vicinity of Makkah Al-Mukarramah. keeping the inside atmosphere always fresh. spread over a period of more than 1400 years. We revere the Prophet (SAW) to an extent of not just awe but fear. Sura Haam Meem Sijda. So that was that.which rather leads to escapism. what of following it in our daily life . humble and humane personality who passed an extremely practical life. a unique fieldwork of my life. all made me think whether or not the cave was ‘custom made’ by God who Himself guided the last Prophet Muhammad Rasul Allah (SAW) towards it to prepare him for the enormous responsibilities he was destined to undertake. Wama Ala’ina Illul Balagh. Whereas God Almighty and His last Messenger (SAW) himself have always taught for Muslim Ummah (nation) to think and research. I am a human being just like you’ (Qul. And this is what I learnt from my visit to the Cave of Hira.the largest empire the world had seen till then.which is exactly what it is meant for. but the entire Fig-10: The first Wahi written on the flat rock. As we respect The Holy Qur'an with such a high reverence that we are sometimes afraid to even touch it. Somebody has very aptly remarked that to write on the life of Prophet (Seerat-e-Nabi) is difficult not because references are not available but because there are so many. he embarked upon preaching of the new faith. 1999 commented that no body have ever seen the cave in such a manner. meeting the requirements so meticulously and its orientation. which is not just limited to religion. Those who read my article in the ‘Daily Dawn’ dated 27 June. WAS IT CUSTOM MADE ? The perfection of the location. Innama Ana Basharum Mislokum). The spread of Islam was so phenomenal that within just over a century i.rative that the validity of Hadith (saying of the Prophet) should always be authenticated through the established references. it is impe. had carved out an empire stretching from the borders of India (present day Pakistan) to Atlantic Ocean in far west . (with emphasis). The difference is that he was not only a human being to a highest possible perfection but also humane to the core.e. The man praying in the spectrum of life including all the cave is prostrating right in the direction of Ka’aba. first to his close relatives/friends and later publicly when the second revelation arrived in 613 AD. 9 . has uttered His words through His spokesman Muhammad Rasul Allah that ‘Say. Ayah 6) God in very clear words. He was on the other hand the most kind. There is not even a single facet of life on which the Prophet’s documented guidance is not available for us to at least emulate. may just not be observed from only a religious point of view. inspired by the Holy Qur'an and examples of the Holy Prophet (SAW). sciences. EPILOGUE The main objective of this paper is to emphasize that the Prophet’s (SAW) wholesome personality which is documented in its minutest details. thinking that even a fraction of his achievements are not possible . However. In the Holy Qur'an (Chapter 24.Thereafter. by about 740 AD the Arab Bedouins. The acts and sayings (Hadith) of the Prophet (SAW) are documented elaborately for posterity. published by Nigar Printing Press. 2000.’.ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Mr. Monthly Magazine Global Science (December). published by Ministry of Information..34-37. REFERENCES -Abdul Ma’abood. 10 . ‘Seerat-un-Nabi Album’ (Urdu). Karachi. PSO House. -Jan. Irfan Lateef Khan is acknowledged for composing the final paper. Tarik. ‘The have-nots have it all.Jurist. 1980. -Aghai Ahmed. ‘A geologist’s visit to Ghar-e-Hira’. ‘The Life and Times of Muhammad Rasul Allah. New York. Inc. 1998.. published by the Institute of Policy Studies. Universalizing the Abrahamic Tradition’.H. -Farsi. Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. ‘Ghar-e-Hira ki ziyarat. USA. 2000. -Hart. General and Statesman’. M. published in Business Section of the Daily Dawn dated 24 July. Islamabad. Karachi. ____________. Lahore. 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