Copy of Lecture delivered by(Prof.) Shiam C. VARSHNEY USE OF NATURALS in Perfumery Compounds for INCENCE STICKS On the occasion of ONE DAY SEMINAR Organised Jointly by FAFAI, EOAI & AIAMA at Bangalore On February 24, 2008 By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) releseased globally. as perfumers say.Use of NATURALS in perfumery for Incense Sticks by Shiam C. balsams. are based on natural oils. The purpose of creation of individual scents for flowers / herbs etc. Varshney During one of the conferences.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . S. & berries etc. herbs. Roman Kaiser in his famous Book “Meaningful scents around the World” has stated:“ I have visited so many rain forest biotops during the past ten years in my quest for new molecules and new scent concepts. By Prof. President of Fragrance Division of M/s Robertet. Moreover the concepts of scents or. The idea of describing this known statements is to emphasize that NATURE is supreme.” Dr.” Nature has created innumerous scents as a part of its biological process. all succesfull perfumes. No two scents of flowers or herbs resemble each other otherwise there would be cross-pollination. is not to make human life more colorful and nature more attractive to look at but to sustain the balance of life on earth or to assist the regenerative process of many living species. the inspiration or creativity comes only after studying. (France) said. woods. developing & utilizing natural scents of flowers. These scents attract pollinators by their most specific odour and also offer them some food as a bonus to enable the pollinators to visit them again . “During last 50 years. Most of the molecules have been created by nature and discovered and utilized by scientists. analyzing. e. 6. In order to make this definition more realistic and modern let us add some more words to it i. It should be cost effective. b) It should not produce any burnt or smoky note. It should be attractive or SENSUAL. How to incorporate most of these attributes in a fragrance by using „NATURALS‟and that too in a most cost effective way. By Prof.” You may apply this definition to all type of fragrances – fine as well as functional but when it comes to functional (more specifically for incense sticks). is the main theme of this lecture today. “to create a scent which is unique. what is perfumery? During ancient times. 3. Following are some desirable attributes for creating a fragrance for incense sticks1. It should be unique. 4. It should be pleasant. 2.So. a scent should also be cost effective.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . perfumery was simply an art based on knowledge of natural scents and utilizing the same in creating a “SCENT” which is pleasant and attractive to human beings. pleasant and attractive to human beings and able to create a lasting impression. S.these two words do not go together in many cases but still are very relevant when we are discussing the use of naturals in creation of fragrance for incense sticks. a) It should be effective on burning or let us say-all ingredients should be able to evaporate from the stick before burning or during the process of burning without degradations. NATURAL AND COST EFFECTIVE. It should be able to create long lasting impression. Now. 5. below 1. diffusiveness. That is the reason. intensity. Many perfumer/scientists do not understand the quality and strength of naturals in perfumery. & tuberose absolute.e. jasmine absolute. However. over and above. a) LAVENDER OIL The known constituents of lavender oil are – MAJOR (More than 1. The quest for unfolding the mysteries of natural scents is still so alive as it was 100 years ago when only a few synthetic molecules were available to perfumers.0%) Linalool Linalyl Acetate Borneol Terpin.4.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . it would be a good exercise to understand the naturals. A natural oil is a mixture of more than hundreds of minor and trace molecules some of which possessing very low threshold values i. for its naturalizing effect on the blend. S. Many advance analytical techniques are available to scientists / perfumers to analyze the complex but interesting scents of naturals. Naturalizing effect comes from their very complex composition having hundreds of trace and minor constituents. A natural is used in a fragrance for its unique character.Before we start discussing on this main theme. The importance of naturals in creative perfumery is very well known to perfumers but still only a few possess the ability and understanding of using these to their advantage. the whole modern day perfumery revolves around the naturals.00 ppb in air/water. let us consider few examples – lavender oil.ol Lavandulyl Acetate Caryophyllene (Beta) 1. strength and. many perfumers still claim that they generally are able to create their own lavender or geranium oil (RECON) just by mixing 20/30 major/ minor ingredients.octen-3-yl acetate By Prof. Now. 1%) Methyl n hexyl ether Cis.en-10-ol Coumrin Nerolidol Acetate Humulene Cadinols Bicyclosesquiphellendrene Bisabolol By Prof.3-hexenol Hexenol Hexyl acetate 3 – Octyl acetate Myroxide Hexyl Iso butyrate Methyl cyclo pantiendiene Crotonaldehyde Methyl vinyl ketone 1-penten-3-one 1-hexen-3-one 1-octen-3-one Farnesals Ionones Methyl jasmonate Santalal – alfa Santalal.MINOR (Less than 1% and more than 0.tri-cyclo eka Sabinene hydrates Bornyl acetate Cumin alcohol Decyl tiglate Pino carvyl fomate Vervenyl acetate Hexyl hexanoate Cubebenes Bourbonenes Zingeberenes Lavandulyl iso butyrate Cadin 4. Pinenes Camphene 3-Octanol Delta – 3 – Carene Cymenes Limonenes Terpinenes TRACES (Less than 0.1% ) 1-octen-3-ol 3-octanone Myrecene Ocimenes Eucalyptol Linalool oxides Camphor Lavendulol Caryo oxide Terpineol Linalyl formate Geranyl acetate Santalene Farnesene Cadinenes Germacrene-D Undecatriene. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . 50 By Prof.70 9.20 3. possess low threshold value of less than one ppb.60 2.00 1.40 6.00 7.0%) Benzyl acetate Benzyl benzoate Linalool Phytol Isophytol Iso phytol acetate Indol Geranyl linalool Squalene Cis-jasmone Eugenol Methyl linolenate Benzyl alcohol Methyl plamitate Cis-3-hexenyl benzoate 1. b) Jasmine absolute The known constituents of Jasmine absolute are:MAJOR (More than 1.90 1.Oceminol Dihydro para cymene Crypton 4-thujamole Hexyl methyl 3-butyrate Bornyl formate Thujnyl acetate Bergamotenes Calamenene Photosantalols Rosefuran Nerol oxide Damascenone Perillene M.Salicylate Eugenol o-hyroxycumin aldehyd Guaiacol 2-acetyl pyridine 2-iso propentyl – 2-methylpyridene and many more The uniqueness and strength of lavender oil comes from these hundreds of trace ingredients which are more powerful than the entire sum of major + minor ingredients.40 7. S. Out of these at least few trace ingredients.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) .00 20.00 17.10 3.00 3.20 2.00 1. C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) .1%) Methyl benzoate Alpha-farnesene Nerolidol Nerolidyl acetate Methyl trans-(Z)-jasmonate Methyl-N-acetylanthranilate Methyl anthranilate Methyl-N-Methyl anthranilate Linalool oxides Phytyl hexadecanoate Neophytadiene Gernyl acetate Cis-3-hexenyl acetate Benzyl salicylate Hexahydro franesylacetone Methyl jasmonate P-cresol Neophytadiene Geraniol Farnesals Terpineol Vanillian 6-Methyl-5-en-2-one Gamma butralactone Iso eugenol Caryophyllene TRACE (Less than0.5 dihydrojasmonate Sulfides By Prof.00 Total 88.1%) Hexyl butyrate M. S.caprylate Nonanal / Decanal 4-methyl 5-vinyl-nicotenate Cis-dec-7-en-5-olide Phenyl acetonitrile 2-Phenyl nitroethane 2-vinyl pyridine S-decalactone Jasmonate acid lactone Ethyl cis-(Z)jasmonate Ethyl trans-(Z)jasmonate Methyl 4.00 MINOR (Less than 1% and more than 0.Jasmin Lactone 1. 8 1.5 12.0%) Methyl palmitate Methyl benzoate Benzyl benzoate Ethyl oleate Alpha-Terpineol 1.2-Methyl quinolene Hexan-4-olide Heptane-4-olide Decan-4-olide Nonal-4-olide 4-Methyl hex-5-en-4-olide (cis) dec-7-en-olide 3-Ethyl pyridene 3-vinyl pyridene 3-ethyl-4M pyridene 3-vinyl-4-M pyridene Methyl and ethyl nicotinates Iso prop 3 methoxy pyrazine c) Tuberose absolute: - The known constituents of tuberose absolute are:MAJOR (More than 1.8 13.1%) Massoialactone 5-Dodecen-4-olide By Prof.4 5.3 4.8-cineol Methyl salicylate Farnesol Methyl anthranilate 14.1%) 5-decanolide Jasmine lactone TRACE (Less than 0.0 3. S.5 .4 Eugenol methyl ether Benzyl salicylate Benzyl alcohol Palmitate acid Oleic acid Total MINOR (Less than 1% and more than 0.2 2.6 3.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) 2.5 2.3 68.2 10.1 1.4 1. However. By Prof. Phillippe Guerlian.Tuberolactone 5-Undecanolide 5-Dodecanolide 5-Tetradecanolide 4-pentonolide 4-Octanolide 4-Nonanolide 4-Decanolide 4-Undecanolide 4-Dodecanolide Methyl dihydrocinnamate Hexyl methyl ether Phenylacetonitrile 1-Nonen-4-ol Alpha-damascone Anethole 6-Methyl-alpha-pyrone p-Methoxyphenylacetonitrile Epoxyeugenol 5Z-Octen-4-olide 5Z-Decen-4-olide 6Z-Nonen-4-olide 6Z-Dodecen-4olide 6Z.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . fragrant oils came to Europe from India. is termed as Eastern Techneque of perfumery as this was originated in eastern countries including INDIA and practiced by them for so many years. which was the only technique of the 19th Century. “India and South East Asia have always fascinated my family. That is why.” In this technique only naturals are used in the form of essential oils or absolutes or resinoids or tinctures. says. Now. (1925) the promoter of SHALIMAR. let us discuss about various techniques of perfumery and how “naturals” are used in these techniques:EASTERN TECHNIQUE OF PERFUMERY The first technique of fragrance creation. S. Burma. the cradle of civilization. with the passage of time. It is the birthplace of perfumery. Thailand and Indonesia along the trade roads through Iran. which taught Arabia the art of perfume. Later. to the orient where perfume began.9Z-Dodecadien-4-olide Tuberolide Nitrogen compounds(>10 Nos) The total odour intensity of these trace constituents is at least 5 times more than the odour intensity of major and minor ingredients combined. my family always returns to the roots of perfumery. witnessed the synthesis of many aroma chemicals. 5 etc. is modern art and By Prof. The end of 19th Century. By the end of 20th century.this technique did not proved to be very cost effective and remained applicable only to classical fragrances. S. such as JICKY. lot of research went in digging further the presence of hundreds of trace chemicals into natural oils or absolutes and perfumers started utilizing of potent aroma chemicals in natural herbs/flowers/woods/roots to create top class classicals. to create the desired character with natural effects and combining these with usual synthetic aroma chemicals. SHALIMAR. low threshold molecules. which were used by famous perfumery houses to add new creativity to their formulations. the whole technique was westernized and use of synthetic chemicals became the art of perfumery. WESTERN THEORY OF PERFUMERY Industrial synthesis of natural odorants in 19th century 1855 1855 1866 1870 1876 1883 1884 1885 1886 1890 1891 1892 Benzyl alcohol Phenyl acetic acid Coumrin Benzaldehyde Vanillian Phenyl acetic aldehyde Cinamic aldehyde Terpineol Methyl salicylate Heliotropin Nitro musks Ionones By middle of 20th century. CHANEL No. MODERN THEORY OF PERFUMERY Using natural oils with nature identical.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . science of perfumery. The odors generated by above “trace” ingredients are highly potent and are considered unpleasant or repulsive in their concentrated form. Buchu leaf. S. Theory of Contrast Imagine a „jasmine‟ without the use of civet. Examples are: Civet. which owing to their very characteristics or intense odours. empyrumatic and repulsive categories of odour. Modern technique of perfumery is the art and science of using naturals (which are cost effective) with synthetics and utilising many trace and minor ingredients of low threshold values found in By Prof. etc. This is known as “Theory of contrast” in perfumery creation. let us revise our definition of modern technique of perfumery. even when used in traces can change the complete character of a fragrance. indol. So. Modern technique of perfumery also takes into account the theory of contrast in perfumery. When such unpleasant odours are combined in traces with many pleasant floral. fruity or other similar “Living Tissue odours”. cresol derivatives and pyrazines or nicotinates or similar animalic note ingredients. balsamic.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . Galbanum. Generally this change of characters is achieved by adding contrast to the blend. Imagine a „Rose‟ without the use of sulfur molecules! As explained earlier. which is equally applicable to fragrances for incense sticks. every flower‟s scent possesses an attracting power which comes from many trace ingredients which are part of “Dying Tissue Odours” and are classified under animalic. a true flower accord or a classic fragrance is created. There are so many natural or nature identical ingredients. fresh. Castorium. C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . An excess of polish or rounding off can. like . music or paintings. result in a subdued characterless composition. you will observe that a fragrance is incomplete unless you add some sensual.natural oils / absolutes to achieve the desired natural uniqueness & strength in a fragrance. at worst. empyrumatic. S. repulsive. balsamic or earthy character as represented by the bottom segment of the wheel. Referring to the analysis of odours written by the author. with lasting impression. LIVING TISSUE ODOURS By Prof. According to Charles(1961) sharp contrast have their place in fine as well as functional perfumery similar to other arts. how to obtain that natural. let us discuss. A perfumer cannot take the liberty of using exotic oils in low-cost fragrances. how one can achieve the cost effectiveness by using NATURALS or their potent isolates.Citrata oil Nagarmotha oil Nutmeg oil Orange oil Patchouli oil Peppermint oil Petitgrain oil Spearmint oil Turmeric leaf oil However. Our target is natural oil from ITALY OR ARGENTINA and our limitation is COST. By Prof. Then. their judicious use in functional fragrances is not only an art but a challenge as well. unique and divine. feeling in a functional fragrance! Let me explain this by siting few examplesOur first presentation is a creation of one of the natural oils for functional perfumery ie Lemon peel oil.DYING TISSUE ODOURS Next. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) . Many natural essential oils are still best value for money. only perfumer has to learn the art of using these in his/her compositions:Some of these oils are:Ajowan oil Basil oil Black pepper oil Calamus oil Cederwood oil(Indian) Cinamon leaf oil Citronella oil Clove leaf oil Corrinder oil Dill seed oil Geranium oil Ginger oil Guaicwood oil Jamrosa oil/Palmrosa oil Jatamansi oil Kapoor katchri oil Lavandin oil Lemon oil Lemongrass oil M. 00 Citral 3.00 Gamma terpinene 2.20 INGREDIENTS Methyl ionone (gamma) Fine Timber Vetiver Oil 77 (SIVA) Geranium Oil 77 (SIVA) Linalool Citronellol By Prof.00 1.30 Geranyl acetate 0.00 Alpha + beta pinene cut (Mentha) 3.10 Allyl caproate 0.10 Citrathal (SIVA) 0.03 DHM 0.05 Basil Oil (camphor type) 0.50 1.40 Neryl Acetate 0.10 0.65 Alpha pinene 5.Alcohol Heliotropin Iso eugenol Floralcetal M.10 Nerolidol 0.60 Our next presentation is creation of a oriental fragrance.25 Linalool 0. S.13 C-8 Alcohol 0.00 1.10 0.07 GHB 66 (SIVA) 0.02 Aldehyde C.Lemon Oil 330 INGREDIENTS Area % Aldehyde C – 11 0.50 .20 Aldehyde C-8 0.24 Aldehyde C-9 0.20 0.10 Methyl myral (TADI) 0.30 Tee tree Oil 0.00 1.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) % 1.02 Corinder Oil Eco (SIVA) 0.10 Jasmin oxide 0.40 INGREDIENTS Area % Lime oxide 0.50 Haldi leaf Oil 0.50 Terpineol 1.00 1.10 0. anthranilate % 0. FIRDAUS 2007 : FIRDAUS – 2007 INGREDIENTS Amroxon Cin.60 0.10 C-10 Alcohol 0.12 0.08 Hedione 0.02 Galbanum Oil Eco (SIVA) 0.30 Bisabolene (Siva) 0.03 Coumrin 0.00 Orange terpenes 80. 50 0.30 0. S. Cin.30 0.30 0.00 1.20 0.00 1.80 Benzyl acetate 2.30 0.00 Patchouli select 11 7.80 (SIVA) 1.00 Bacdanol 4.00 Hydroxy citronellal 3.00 Terpinyl Acetate 4.00 Styryl acetate 4.00 Jasmin Oxide 1.00 Hex.40 0.50 (SIVA) 0. Brasslate 3.60 (TADI) 0.50 0.00 Eth.20 0.70 0.00 Benzyl salicylate 3.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP) 100. acetate 10.00 (SIVA) 1.30 (SIVA) 0.00 Iso E super 2.00 Sandela 6.00 Lin.50 0.Rhuboxide Vetac C.30 0.00 Lilial 5.00 TOTAL THANK YOU By Prof.00 Herbolite M 110 (SIVA) 2.00 Lemon Oil 330 (SIVA) 5.00 Tonalid 2.00 Galaxolide 50 4.00 .18 aldehyde Javanol 10% Hedione Evernyl GHB 66 Herbalmate Herbox Jamrosa Oil Vet Acetate Art Citrathal Lemon grass Oil C-12 MNA Vetcon DHM acetate Fasli Gulab 1508 Glyco greenal Jasmin absolute art 88 Coumarin (TADI) 0.00 DPG 3.Aldehyde 10.