EVALUATION OF FABRIC AND APPAREL FINISHES2 5 TH A P R I L 2 0 1 3 1 Presented by : SUPRIYA NANDA (Roll no. 25) YASHASVI SHAILLY (Roll no. 28) 2 TEXTILE TESTING Textile testing as a whole refers to the vigorous testing done on textile materials which may be inside the laboratory as well as natural setting or in day-to-day uses, using various testing acids, equipment, simple as well as sophisticated technical instruments by use of different chemicals and reagents in different physical, physiological and environmental conditions upon various natural biological mineral elements and resources under different reactive and nonreactive situations for the development of textile industry for effective and satisfied textile consumer ship. 3 OBJECTIVES OF TESTING Research Selection of raw materials Process-control Product development Product testing 4 NEEDS OF TEXTILE TESTING CHECKING RAW MATERIALS MONITORING PRODUCTION ASSESSING THE FINAL PRODUCT INVESTIGATION OF FAULTY MATERIAL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND RESEARCH 5 . STANDARDS IN TESTING According to ISO. to ensure that materials. standards are documented agreements containing technical specifications or other precise criteria to be used consistently as rules. LEVEL OF STANDERDS COMPANY STANDERDS INDUSTRY STANDERDS GOVERENMENT STANDERDS FULL CONSENSUS STANDERDS 6 . processes and services are fit for their purpose. products. guidelines or definitions of characteristics. STANDARDIZING ORGANIZATIONS AATCC-American Colorists Association of Textiles Chemists and ASTM-American Society for Testing and Materials ANSI-American National Standards Institute BSI-British Standards Institution BIS-Bureau of Indian Standards 7 . 8 . This results in varying amount of moisture contained by a hygroscopic material exposed to the atmosphere. and the relative humidity and temperature at which the testing was done should be mentioned. it is necessary to standardize the humidity and temperature conditions to which the textile materials or product is subjected prior to and during testing.STANDARDS CONDITIONS FOR TESTING Under normal conditions. the amount of moisture in the air is continuously changing. which will result in a change in the physical properties of this material. in order that reliable comparisons be made among different textile materials and products and among different laboratories. Therefore. then this should be clearly stated in the test and report. Such conditions are 65+ 2% relative humidity and 21+1 C. If the testing is not done under standard atmospheric conditions. TESTING OF FABRIC FINISHES 9 . 10 .TESTING OF TEXTILE FINISHES BASED ON BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES AATCC Test Method 90-2011 (Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials: Agar Plate Method) The objective is to qualitatively detect bacteriostatic activity on products that are treated with antimicrobials and are capable of producing a zone of inhabitation. The Parallel Streak Method has proven effective over a number of years of use in providing evidence of antibacterial activity against both Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.AATCC Test Method 147-2011 (Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak Method) The Parallel Streak Method has filled a need for a relatively quick and easily executed qualitative method to determine antibacterial activity of diffusible antimicrobial agents on treated textile materials. 11 . Assessment on Textile Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textile Materials) Developed in 1946 by AATCC Committee RA31 The two purposes of this test method are to determine the susceptibility of the textile materials to mildew and rot and to evaluate the efficacy of fungicides on textile materials.AATCC Test Method 30-2004 (Antifungal Activity. 12 . Jurisdiction transferred to RA34 in 1987 and returned to RA41 in 1993. 13 . The amylase content of the sample. expressed in Bacterial Amylase Units (BAU). It is not applicable to products which contain beta-amylase in addition to alpha-amylase. is readily calculated from the dextrinizing time. Principle: Dextrogenic amylase activity is measured in terms of digestion time required to produce a color change denoting a definite stage of dextrinization of the starch substrate.AATCC Test Method 103-2009 (Bacterial Alpha-Amylase Enzymes used in Desizing) Developed in 1962 by AATCC Committee RA41. This test method is intended for the assay of bacterial amylases employed commercially for textile desizing. bear no consistent relation to the commercial moisture regain values listed herein.04(2012) Standard Table of Commercial Moisture Regains for Textile Fibers The value listed for the commercial moisture regain of a specific fiber type is not an experimentally determined quantity but a purely arbitrary value arrived at for commercial purposes by interested parties.ASTM D1909 . when in moisture equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for testing. The actual moisture regain values of textile materials. 14 . in modified form. chroma.TESTING OF TEXTILE FINISHES BASED ON COLORFASTNESS AATCC Test Method 173-2009 (CMC: Calculation of Small Color Differences for Acceptability) Developed in 1989 by AATCC Committee RA36 The CMC (l:c) formula is a modification of the corresponding CIELAB color-difference formula. 15 . and hue components which is present in the CIELAB color-difference formula. It has color-difference symbol Decmc. the partitioning of overall color difference into differences in lightness. The CMC (l:c) formula retains. These test methods are applicable to textiles made from all fibers in the form of yarns or fabrics. printed or otherwise colored. alkaline cleansing agents and alkaline street dirt. whether dyed. The tested specimens are examined for changes in color. sizes. 16 . Principle: The specimens are steeped in or spotted with the required solutions by means of simple laboratory equipment.AATCC Test Method 6-2011 (Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis) Developed in 1925 by AATCC Committee RR1 Test specimens are evaluated for resistance to simulated action of acid fumes. alkaline sizes. The test method is neither suitable for the evaluation of the durability of textile finishes. nor is it intended for use in evaluating the resistance of colors to spot and stain removal procedures used by the drycleaner. Principle: A specimen of the textile in contact with cotton fabric.AATCC Test Method 132-2009 (Colorfastness to Dry cleaning) Developed in 1969 by AATCC Committee RA43 This test method is intended for determining the colorfastness of textiles to all kinds to drycleaning. multi fiber swatch and no corrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene and then dried in air. Any staining is assessed by using the Gray Scale for Staining or the Chromatic Transference Scale. This test method gives an indication of results to be obtained from three commercial dry cleanings. 17 . Any change in color of the specimen is then assessed with the Standard Gray Scale for Color Change. Specimens are tested under defined conditions of temperature. Principle: A specimen of the dyed textile is laundered. This procedure is most appropriately used during the dye selection process. This method does not reflect the contribution to shade change of optical brighteners. which are present in some commercial washing products. and dried. 18 . rinsed. bleach concentration and time to assess whether fading will occur after multiple home launderings. The color difference between the test specimen and the original textile is assessed instrumentally or visually. prior to the production of washable textiles. or finishes that may be applied to the textile during production.AATCC Test Method 190-2010 (Colorfastness to Home Laundering with Activated Oxygen Bleach Detergent: Accelerated) Developed in 2001 by AATCC Committee RA60 This test method is a diagnostic test intended to screen dyed cotton textiles sensitive to oxygen bleach detergents. 19 .AATCC Test Method 16.1 (Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor) Developed in 2012 by AATCC Committee RA50 This test method provides the general principles and procedures for determining the colorfastness to light of textile materials outdoors under glass. The test options described are applicable to textile materials of all kinds and for colorants. finishes and treatments applied to textile materials. fuzz and pill appearance of cellulosic fabrics together with the removal of linters and immature/dead cotton fibers. The agitation in the washer simulates the action in rotary drum machines. Such treatment usually result in improvements in the hand. paddle machines and jets. drape. 20 .TESTING OF TEXTILE FINISHES BASED ON PHYSICAL PROPERTIES AATCC Test Method 191-2009 (Acid Cellulase Enzymes: Top Loading Washer) Developed in 2002 by AATCC Committee RA41 This test methods provides a simple testing procedure to evaluate the effect of acid cellulase enzymes on cellulosic by laundering. Principle: This test method determines the reaction of cellulosic fabrics to treatment with acid cellulase enzymes. 21 . Principle: The samples are chlorine bleached in a domestic-type laundry machine.AATCC Test Method 114-2011 (Chlorine Retained. The damaging action of the retained chlorine is calculated from the difference in tensile strength before and after pressing. rinsed. Tensile Loss: Multiple Sample Method) Developed in 1965 by AATCC Committee RR35 This test method is a simplified procedure for testing multiple samples to determine the potential damage that may be caused by chlorine bleaching. dried and pressed between hot metal plates. 22 .AATCC Test Method 130-2010 (Stain Release: Oily Stain Release Method) Developed in 1969 by AATCC Committee RA56 This test method is designed to measure the ability of fabrics to release oily stains during home laundering. This test method is primarily for use by fabric finishers to evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual use. 23 . or in any case where comparisons between laboratories are being made. In referee situations. the parties should agree to use the same ballast and detergent. If this test method is used as part of a contract between buyer and seller. or where standard specifications are involved. An amount of the staining substance is forced into the fabric by using a specified weight. 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent should be used. The use of this test on garments is not precluded. The stained fabric is then laundered in a prescribed manner and the residual stain rated on a scale from 5 to 1 by comparison with a stain release replica showing a graduated series of stains. Principle: A stain is applied to a test specimen. AATCC Test Method 66-2008 (Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle Method) Developed in 1951 by AATCC Committee RR6. after which the recovery angle is recorded. Principle: A test specimen is folded and compressed under controlled conditions of time and force to create a folded wrinkle. jurisdiction transferred to Committee RA61 in 1995 This test method is used to determine the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics. It is applicable to fabrics made from any fiber. or combination of fibers. 24 . The test specimen is then suspended in a test instrument for a controlled recovery period. TESTING OF APPAREL FINISHES 25 . jurisdiction transferred to Committee RA50 in 1996 This purpose of this test method is to determine the effect of the combination of perspiration solution and light exposure on the colorfastness of a colored textile specimen. only perspiration solutions will be used in this procedure.AATCC Test Method 125-2009 (Colorfastness to Perspiration ) Developed in 1967 by AATCC Committee RA23. Therefore. Principle: A colored test specimen is immersed in a perspiration test solution for a specified period of time and immediately exposed to light in a fading apparatus for a specified period of time. 26 . Principle: A specimen. Perchloroethylene is placed on the center of the specimen. 27 .AATCC Test Method 157-2010 (Colorfastness to Solvent Spotting: Perchloroethylene) Developed in 1978 by AATCC Committee RR92 This test method is designed to measure the degree of color migration that occurs when a fabric is spotted with a drycleaning solvent. attached to a piece of white blotting paper. Perchloroethylene is used because it is a common drycleaning solvent. is placed specimen side up on a glass plate. The staining of the blotting paper is evaluated. The test is carried out at room temperature. printed. or otherwise colored textile fabrics. The test method does not determine whether the discoloration is removable.AATCC Test Method 104-2010 (Colorfastness to Water Spotting) Developed in 1962 by AATCC Committee RA23 This test method is designed to evaluate the resistance to water spotting of dyed. 28 . 29 . and which may also contain different types and amounts of migration inhibitors. causing shade variations during a run.AATCC Test Method 140-2011 (Dye and Pigment Migration in a Pad-Dry Process) Developed in 1974 by AATCC Committee RA87 This test method provides a means of assessing the migration propensity of a pad liquor system containing dyes or pigments. subsequently referred to as colorants. When drying conditions are not constant and/or uniform. uneven migration may occur. or between side and center of the fabric. or shade differences between the face and back. paddle machines and jets. The agitation in the washer simulates the action in rotary drum machines.AATCC Test Method 191-2009 (Acid Cellulase Enzymes: Top Loading Washer) Developed in 2002 by AATCC Committee RA41 This test methods provides a simple testing procedure to evaluate the effect of acid cellulase enzymes on cellulosics by laundering. Such treatment usually result in improvements in the hand. 30 . Principle: This test method determines the reaction of cellulosic fabrics to treatment with acid cellulase enzymes. fuzz and pill appearance of cellulosic fabrics together with the removal of linters and immature/dead cotton fibers. drape. Principle: Textile end product items are subjected to standard home laundering practices.AATCC Test Method 143-2011 (Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Laundering) Developed in 1975 by AATCC Committee RA61 This test method is designed for evaluating the smoothness appearance of flat fabric and seams. and alternative drying procedures. A choice is provided of hand or machine washing. 31 . Evaluation is performed using a standard lighting and viewing area by rating the appearance of specimens in comparison with appropriate reference standards. and the retention of pressed-in creases in garments and other textile products after repeated home laundering. alternative machine wash cycles and temperatures. AATCC Test Method 76-2011 (Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics) Developed in 1954 by AATCC Committee RA32 The purpose of this test method is to determine the electrical surface resistivity of fabrics. Principle: Specimens at equilibrium with specified atmospheric conditions of relative humidity and temperature are measured for electrical resistance between parallel electrodes by means of an electrical resistance meter. 32 . The surface electrical resistivity may influence the accumulation of electrostatic charge of a fabric. ASTM D4029 / D4029M . This specification permits the application of sizing materials to the glass fiber yarn during manufacture that helps facilitate weaving. 33 .10 Standard Specification for Finished Woven Glass Fabrics This specification covers finished fabrics woven from "E" electrical glass fiber yarns that are intended as a reinforcing material in laminated plastics for structural use. finish level. ignition loss. twist level. mass per unit area. strand construction. yarn number. yarn designations. filament diameter. These organic materials are typically removed from the greige Fabric and replaced with a finish that is compatible with a specified resin matrix. twist direction. fabric weave type. The materials shall meet the required fabric count. width. length. thickness. breaking strength. and appearance. 34 . textile. The terms used should be consistent with those used on care labels. Manufacturers are encouraged to place more detailed explanations in or on package covers. 35 . Home Furnishing. and leather products. home furnishing. and Leather Products This terminology provides a uniform language for the disclosure of care instructions on labels that are to be attached to apparel. The wording on a care label should be brief.ASTM D3136 . or in some temporary form of communication such as a sticker or hangtag.04(2008)e1 Standard Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel. Textile. These definitions and descriptions employ common meanings used not only by textile technologists but also by consumers. Self-explanatory. finishing. Chlorine bleach may not be used. Dry away from the sun. maximum temperature 30°C (85°F) Use non-chlorine bleach only when necessary.LABEL TERMS DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS Inside-out Machine wash Turn garment inside-out before cleaning to protect the face of fabric. Do not use steam in pressing. Use any home-type or coin-operated washing machine following the manufacturer's instructions as appropriate for the product. Hot Warm Cold Only non-chlorine bleach when needed Do not bleach Dry in shade Do not iron Iron reverse side only Do not steam Steam only No steam Do not dryclean Suede leather clean . Set water temperature control on washer to use hot water directly from the hot water supply. Set water temperature control on washer to use warm water. No bleaches may be used. Set water temperature control on washer to use cold water directly from cold water supply. maximum temperature 50°C (120°F). Do not use steam in any form. Item not to be smoothed or finished with an iron. Use special leather care methods designed for sueded leathers 36 having a raised surface. Use steam without contact pressure. Turn article inside out for ironing or pressing. steam cabinets or wands. maximum 40°C (105°F). ASTM D4851 . 37 . These test methods include only testing procedures and do not include specifications or tolerances. They are intended as a guide for specifications. Any of these methods may be used in material specifications to evaluate requirements for a specific end use as related to a particular job.07(2011) Standard Test Methods for Coated and Laminated Fabrics for Architectural Use The procedures in this standard can be used for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of coated and laminated fabrics for architectural use since these test methods have been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing. or remains the same when subjected to a specified range of humidity and temperature conditions. indicating it will not bubble or sag over time. This test method is used in industry to determine if a fabric grows. office partitions. when applied over a substrate. free standing screens.03(2011) Standard Test Method for Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Changes in Humidity and Temperature The measured dimensional stability of a fabric determines whether a fabric has the potential to retain its original shape and remain stable. grows and then shrinks. and furniture systems.ASTM D6207 . 38 . and its suitability for a specified use. shrinks and then grows. Panel and screen systems include acoustic panels. This test method covers the determination of the dimensional stability of fabrics that are intended for use on panel and screen systems to cycled changes in humidity and temperature. TESTING OF TRIMS USED IN APPAREL 39 . Color fastness to light and crocking[68.69] 40 .EVALUATION OF ZIPPERS Zippers can be evaluated using any one of the following ASTM Test methods. The effect of test coating is evaluating by noting the loss of coating on the zipper chain or components or both. Durability of finish of zippers to laundering[66] The evaluation is done using a Launderometer . Color fastness to Dry-cleaning[67] It is tested by subjecting the zipper stringer to commercial dry cleaning with a multi-fiber fabric. After the mans impact the button.Evaluation of buttons The durability of buttons can be tested by an impact test ASTM [91] . cracking or chipping. This practice is used for acceptance testing of buttons. Individual buttons are placed on a surface centered under a tube through which a preselected mans from a preselected height. 41 . the button is removed from the testing device and visually examined using 5x magnifying glass for breakage. htm http://www.astm.in/2012/03/importance-of-textile-testing-reasons. 81-146 273-275 TEXTILE TESTING By Jewel Raul Pg no.html BOOKS MANAGING QUALITY IN APPAREL INDUTRY By Mehta and Bhardwaj Pg no. 1-98 42 .htm http://textilelearner.apparelsearch.com/testing_methods.org/Standards/textile-standards.BIBLIOGRAPHY LINKS http://www.html http://www.aatcc.blogspot.org/testing/methods/topical.