LOVECOFFEE By Stacy James 30 For The OF D ating back as far as the 13th century with a number of myths surrounding its use, the earliest credible evidence of coffee drinking for pleasure takes us back to the Sufi monasteries of Yemen. Derived from the Arabic word ‘qahwa’, meaning ‘wine of the bean’, legend has it that a Sufi mystic discovered the elixir by first observing birds indulging in ripe coffee tree cherries. After eating a few himself; the mystic experienced a unique vitality, and the obsession for the perfect cup of joe was born. Renowned as a coffee expert and the highlight speaker during Ubud’s standingroom-only 2012 TEDx forum on the highly caffeinated island of Bali, professional roaster and popular Ubud café owner Asher Yaron talks to Exquisite Taste about how his life is enriched by the love of coffee. Q: Please tell us about your background as a professional coffee roaster. A: I began roasting coffee as a hobby about 7 years ago when I was living in southern Oregon in the USA. I have always been passionate about coffee and in search of the perfect “cuppa”. I was always disappointed with everything I tried until a friend introduced me to fresh roasted coffee (my definition of “fresh roasted” is coffee that has been roasted within 7 days). That’s when I had my “Aha” moment. Since that time I have been focused on sharing my “Aha” moment with others who are passionate about coffee. Q: What is it about coffee that incites such passion? A: Coffee is the most widely used natural drug on the planet. Hundreds of millions of people rely on its power to awaken our physical consciousness each morning. There is a big difference between having a really good cup of coffee first thing upon arising and having a lousy cup of coffee. It has the power to either put us into a great, upbeat, positive mood, or to make us feel jittery, nervous, or worried. I am convinced that much of this has to do with the quality of the coffee we are putting into our bodies. I only want to consume the purest and most potent form and share that experience with others. Q: How did your love of coffee evolve into the idea of opening coffee shops here on Bali? A: I have been coming to Bali frequently since 1997 and have always stopped drinking coffee for the time that I spent here because the coffee was so bad. Most of the coffee used here in Indonesia is the Robusta variety which has a much different effect on the brain and body than the higher quality, and more expensive, Arabica variety. What the locals call “Kopi Bali” is Robusta. Yet, I knew that good quality Arabica coffee was grown in the mountains of Bali, in Kintamani. On one trip here I decided to bring back with me to the USA green unroasted coffee and roast it myself to see how it compared to other coffee I 31 step of the coffee making process, “From the Cherry to the Cup!”. We grow, harvest, process, roast, and brew our own coffee insuring the highest quality during each step of this process. To my knowledge no one else is doing this...it’s what makes us unique and enables us to create the best coffee possible. As they say, “the proof is in the pudding” and our proof is the testimonials from our customers that are posted on our website. Q: How much coffee do you normally drink in one day? A: I drink 1 - 2 cups every morning, that’s it. The kind of coffee I am making is potent so it is important for me to get the correct dosage. I have found that drinking coffee in the afternoon or evening does not work well for me. Everybody has different dosage requirements and must determine what works best for themselves. I am not only referring to caffeine here. There are many other beneficial substances in coffee (when created via the F.R.E.A.K. method), that have powerful effects on the human brain and body. To maximize these effects we must take the proper dose at the proper time. Q: What coffee trends are you currently seeing today? A: One of the fastest growing trends, and the most exciting to me, is people roasting coffee themselves at home. Once people experience what fresh roasted coffee tastes and feels like they are convinced and never go back to buying store bought coffee again. This is what I am promoting and supporting....and it’s very easy to do. People can roast their own coffee, enough for their daily needs, in a hot air popcorn popper. It takes less than 10 minutes, is inexpensive, and there are more and more sources for buying green unroasted coffee online. One excellent source for buying small quantities for the home roaster is www.sweetmarias.com. Q: How does drinking cold press coffee differ from a good old-fashioned espresso? A: Cold Pressed Coffee is coffee that is brewed with cold water instead of hot water. The cold water brewing process results in coffee that is much less acidic than coffee brewed either as an espresso or the drip brewing method....up to 70% less acid, which is a very significant reduction. The coffee tastes very smooth with no bitter aftertaste and still remains strong and potent. There are different ways to cold brew coffee. Adjustments can be made regarding the fineness of the grind and the amount of time the coffee grinds soak in the water. I have found that by using a coarse grind and brewing the coffee for 24 hours makes the best result for my own purposes. The other benefit of cold pressed coffee is that it stays fresh when refrigerated for up to 3 weeks after it is brewed. It is extremely convenient to use because it is already in liquid form. Just heat and serve or else drink cold over ice! Q: Are there any special techniques when growing coffee trees that makes the beans extra special for roasting? A: Our coffee trees are shade grown which is their most natural state. We also grow our coffee organically and do not use any pesticides. Other than growing coffee in this way there are other important aspects of harvesting, processing, and drying that create the highest quality green coffee. Harvesting - During the coffee harvest it is important that the coffee cherries are handpicked when their ripeness is at its peak. Each cherry ripens at a different time and over the course of the 2 month long harvest season, each tree will need to be handpicked every couple of days. Processing - After the cherries are picked from the tree, they must be processed within 24 hours (meaning the seeds are removed from the fruit) or else they start to ferment and spoil. This can be very challenging and our processing machines are going 24/7 during the harvest season. Drying - The coffee beans, seeds actually, need to reach a state of 11% moisture content in order to be stored properly. Coffee beans are susceptible to mold which can create myco toxins, an unhealthy product of improper drying and storing. was roasting. After trying it I realized that Bali Kintamani Arabica coffee was just as good as other coffee I was importing from around the world. I decided to bring my roasting operation to Bali, using locally sourced coffee to see if I could change the coffee culture here from using either Robusta, or already roasted and imported Arabica coffee from Italy. Q: What is it about the process that makes your boutique brand of F.R.E.A.K. coffee different from others? A: At F.R.E.A.K. we take a “Farm-to-Table” approach to coffee. We are involved in each 32 These are just a few of the factors that greatly affect the coffee before it is roasted. Taking the time and effort to maintain the highest quality standards during these stages is important in creating excellent coffee. Q: Please list the top coffee bean growing regions in Indonesia and describe why each region is unique. A: There are many well known coffee growing regions within Indonesia that have become famous for producing excellent coffee. Sumatra and Aceh are probably the most well known and they have huge plantations that produce the majority of Arabica coffee that comes out of Indonesia. However, my experience has shown me that it’s not about where the coffee comes from, it’s terroir, that makes it special, but how the coffee is harvested, processed, roasted, and brewed, that makes it special. Here is a good example to illustrate this point. I recently was talking with an acquaintance who has traveled extensively in Indonesia and is a coffee lover. He said he tried coffee from all over Indonesia, including, Sumatra, Aceh, Java, and Flores....and that, in his opinion, the best coffee was in Flores. I then asked him how was the coffee prepared in those different places and did he know, in each place, when the coffee was roasted that he was drinking? After thinking about it for a moment he said he did not know when the coffee was roasted in all those other places besides Flores. In Flores they roasted the green coffee right in front of him on a pan in an open fire....as fresh as it could be...and his experience of drinking that coffee was truly special and remarkable. It was probably the only fresh roasted coffee that he had ever had and he could taste and feel the difference. This example supports my own findings and discoveries. It’s not so much about where the coffee comes from, it’s terroir, it’s about how that coffee is processed, “From the Cherry to the Cup!” that makes the biggest difference! (www.freakcoffee.com) 33 The World of Coffee According to Asher Yaron ARABICA ROBUSTA There are two major types of coffee in the world, Arabica and Robusta. Both of these species of trees produce coffee cherries that look very similar to each other but are, in fact, very different. The coffee that we consume are the seeds inside the cherries that are harvested, dried, and roasted. vs COFFEE PRODUCING HOT SPOTS “I have chosen to work exclusively with Arabica coffee based on my years of observation and experimentation. I have noticed, in myself and others, that high quality Arabica coffee (i.e., organically grown, fresh roasted, and prepared with excellence) has powerful medicinal characteristics that effect the body by stimulating the desire to move (workout, dance, do yoga, etc.) and effect the brain by stimulating thoughts of creativity, positivity, and imagination. I believe Arabica coffee is a very useful medicine by energizing our bodies, and for our consciousness by helping us focus our attention in a positive and creative way.” “The effects of Robusta feel very different to me. With nearly double the caffeine content it can overload the nervous system (particularly on those who are sensitive to it), and create nervous jitters and attention that is distracted and unfocused, the exact opposite of Arabica! Many people feel they cannot drink coffee because they have experienced these effects and it has not felt good. In some instances it may not be coffee, in general, that is the culprit, but the type of coffee and the way in which that coffee was grown, harvested, roasted, and brewed.” ASIA’S CHINA Popular for their full body and mellow, earthy flavours, Asia’s exotic coffees are gaining momentum around the world and giving the big boys in South America and Africa a run for their money. TYPES OF COFFEE Arabica coffee is largely considered the superior of the two and comprises about 70% of world production. Robusta coffee comprises about 30% of the world’s production. Is there anything that China doesn’t produce? If you haven’t heard of Chinese coffee yet, it’s because most of what is grown throughout the southernmost inland province of Yunnan (known for a handful of verdant growing regions) is exported to companies who make instant coffee. Keep an eye out for the boutique farms on Hainan Island along the southern coastline near Vietnam as they just might make a name for themselves as the fervour for Asian coffees continues to grow. INDONESIA The fourth largest coffee producer in the world after Vietnam, the best Arabica coffees can be found growing on Sumatra, Sulawesi and Java. Prized for their richness, full body, long finish, earthiness and gentle acidity, Indonesia’s Arabica coffees are considered some of the best in the world. INDIA The second largest producer in Asia, India is responsible for 25% of Asian coffee production. Grown throughout the country’s lush mountainous regions, Indian coffees are known for their unique nuances, which can sometimes comprise nutmeg, clove, cardamom and pepper. coffee characteristics Asher’s Recommendation: Buyer Beware! Before drinking your daily cup(s) of coffee it is important to know the type of coffee you are drinking. Is it Arabica? Robusta? A blend? Where is it from? Organically grown? Is it already ground or whole bean? How fresh is it from when it was roasted? Unknown? 1 month? 2 weeks? Within 24 hours? Knowing the answers to these questions will enhance your understanding of what is the best coffee for YOU? YOUR body? YOUR mind? Do your own experimenting and testing. Coffee is a powerful natural pharmaceutical consumed by hundreds of millions of people around the world every day. It is worthwhile finding out what is best for us individually so that we can enhance our life experience and perform at our very best! PAPUA NEW GUINEA arabica • Higher price (more than double the price of Robusta) • More difficult to grow (needs altitude) • More susceptible to diseases • Produces a lower yield per acre • Wider range in flavors • Superior aroma and taste (more oils and sugars in the seeds) • Lower caffeine content (about 1/2 the caffeine as Robusta) • Superior effect on consciousness (enhances ability to focus attention) robusta • Lower cost (less than 1/2 the • Easier to grow (can grow at sea price of Arabica) level and higher) • More resistant to pests and diseases • Greater yield per acre • Less flavorsome • Lower quality aroma and taste • Higher caffeine content (about twice as much as Arabica) • Jittery effect on nervous system and consciousness • Often used as a “filler” in blends to maximize profits VIETNAM Originally brought to the coffee-loving country by French missionaries bearing Arabica tree seedlings in the mid-nineteenth century, Vietnam is rapidly becoming one of the world’s largest producers. Frequently used for blending, Vietnamese coffee has a light acidity and mild body with a good balance. A secret gem among coffee growers, the world’s second largest island began cultivating coffee in 1937. Well-balanced with a fruity aroma and earthy body, legend has it that Papua New Guinea’s coffee industry started with seeds imported from Jamaica’s famous Blue Mountain region. AUSTRALIA A fairly new trend in the Land Down Under, Australia began growing coffee in the late 1800s near the trendy seaside destination of Brisbane. About one-half of Australia’s coffee is exported to buyers across the globe while lucky locals and visitors get to indulge in the remaining 50-percent; processed by boutique roasters and used in blends or as single origin coffee. 34 35