Expedition DiaryChau Chau Kang Nilda (CCKN) 6303 meters By Ankur Jhunjhunwala For Explorers Delight Adventure Club New Delhi September 2009 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Contents Contents Preface On and Off the Hermit’s Trail The Milky Night, the Starry Way and I was Stumped! Lost and Found! On a Rampage Independent and High The End of a Beginning Appendices Bio-Data of members Itinerary Map Summary of Expenses Pictures 2 3 3 5 6 7 7 9 10 10 11 12 13 14 Page | 2 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Preface My relation with mountains has been long and beautiful. Not that I have climbed many peaks or climbed attained great heights, but having been born in the beautiful hills of Shillong, mounta have always mountains made me feel at home. Thus, it was not surprising when I got addicted to the sport of trekking and climbing after having been introduced to in 2005 2005-06! My first trek was to the ‘Double Decker Living Root Bridge’ in Shillong (inset). The short trek fuelled my hort determination and soon I found myself returning to the jungles and the hills more often. I also took to nd caving in the hills around Shillong. This was equally exhilarating. My first major trek was that to Dodital and Darwa Top in March of 2008. Ever since, my love of the m high altitude and of challenging terrains has only multiplied with every new trip and when in the mountains with every next step. In December 2008, on the New Years Eve, I resolved to attain an altitude of 6000 meters before the same day of Double Decker Living Root Bridge, Cherrapunji, Meghalaya rapunji, 2009. I also resolved to get an exposure to climbing and hence graduate from trekking. This is a report of trekking. my quest for the high and the cold and the challenging! On and Off the Hermit’s Trail As part of my preparation for the tas that I had set for myself, I took to exerting myself at every task opportunity. A short stint with rock climbing in Nanital, time spent at the gym or in the pool was all with an eye on the task. In June 2009, I finally began my hunt for a peak which would be not very technical and yet challenging, requiring a not very long expedition, and yet high. After much research and discussion, the Chau Chau Kang Nilda (CCKN) was picked, and after much effort a team was build and a plan was put in place. I was very excited when I left Delhi for Manali on August 8, 2009! excited However, once in Manali, I realized that I was without a team once more. Of the four members, other than me, who were scheduled to join me, one had been held back by work, another had fallen ill, one was out of reach and could not be contacted and the forth decided to go on a trek instead. Though stranded for once, I decided to stick to the plan. In Manali, I was able to get another enthusiast, Mr Pritamsingh, on to the team. When he and I were packing our sacks for the days ahead, we were introduced to members of a climbing team from Kolkata who were set to attempt the CCKN as well. I It was surprising because they too had permission from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) for accent on the same peak, through the same route and at the same time as us (IMF does not allow two , teams on the same peak at the same time!). Anyways, we decided to join the team from Kolkata for this expedition. Page | 3 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) August 10: I went for an early morning bath to the famous hot water spring of the Vashist Temple in Manali. On my walk to the temple that was four kilometers away, I met and mingled with few locals and was able to appreciate the real Manali. The bath in the spring, though refreshing, drained me of all energy for a while. Highlight of the day was ‘SIDDU.’ This, I found to be an amazing steamed dish of wheat flour stuffed with a paste of poppy seeds. The fact that poppy seeds were used gave the real kick. The dish was beautifully tasteful, non-addictive, devoid of drugs, made of illegal seeds that are expensive, and one to which my footsteps would return in the near future. Hot Water Spring, Manali August 11: The day began early as we took the 0500 hrs bus to Kaza. The team, now 26 strong (including 24 members of the Kolkata group), was all enthused about doing the summit. In route, we passed through mesmerizing valleys, mostly cold, dry and windy, and through the world famous Rothang Pass (3978 meters) and the Kunzum Pass (4551 meters), neither of which stood out in any way from the rest of the equally beautiful valley. On way, I met a Mr Anurag from Delhi, who was excited about things like travelling and photography, as I was, and we decided to plan future trips together. We reached Kaza at about 1700 hours in the evening, and proceeded to Langza directly from there. Langza is a beautiful high village (4375 meters) in the lap of CCKN. Behind the village, the peak rises majestically, 2000 meters in the sky! The first clear view of the peak (we had glimpse of the peak on way to Kaza) caused me to respect it. I was confronted by the might and enormity of the mountain, which I had not been able to appreciate earlier. I was all the more excited about the journey to the top. While at Langza, we stayed at an abandoned school. August 12: I woke up to a bright and sunny day. The team had decided to call it rest and acclimatization! Langza is famous for the sea fossils that are abundantly found in and around the village, and not surprisingly, I found myself day-packed to go scavenging! Pritam and I spent the whole of the morning and a better half of the afternoon breaking stones along the river, in the canyon behind the village. It was amazing how fossils of what resembled snails were beautifully embedded within stones. We collected quite a few. Fossils found near Langza We returned to our ‘school’ to a late lunch and an unfolding drama. The villagers at Langza told us that we would need the permission of the village heads before we could proceed to CCKN. Without the permission, they informed, we would not be allowed to proceed, and no support, whatsoever, would be provided to us. Our best guess was that this was a tactic to squeeze some money out of us in the form of donations and gifts. We waited for the next day when we would meet the village heads. Page | 4 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) The Milky Night, the Starry Way and I was Stumped! A zillion stars saw I, a sky Unlike any other I had seen before; I was stumped! The shadow of the Milky Way, was Diamonds and Pearls in the night; No moonlight did blur my view; And oh, the sight; I was stumped! The blanket of stars was complete, I was stoned by the view; in awe And in vain I tried, I couldn’t capture what I saw; I was stumped! The stars were far, I stretched my hands, I caught them, they slipped! Watery eyes, a beauty I couldn’t kiss; And I was stumped! So much I gained, So much I missed, So much I took, So much I could; The zillion stars that saw I, The starry night, the milky sky, I turned my eyes, I left myself, I was in awe, and I was stumped! - Ankur (Sep 10, ’09) Page | 5 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Lost and Found! August 13: Much reasoning and persuasion at the meeting yielded no results. The villagers decided not to let us proceed. The pretext was a superstition that climbing the CCKN leads to bad weather and this would ruin their ‘pea crop’ just at the time of harvest. All our explanation fell on deaf ears. We would get no support (ponies and porters to the base camp) and would not be allowed to proceed in that direction. For once all seemed lost! An emergency team meeting was called to take stalk of the situation. Both teams had invested huge sums of money and a lot of effort and time for a trip that was not to be anymore. The mood was somber! Lost: CCKN CCKN was not to be, at least not this time, but the team was reluctant to return without any ascent. I was completely lost, and didn’t know what to do. While the rest of the members decided to attempt an unnamed peak near the Kunzum Pass, I was still not sure. All my planning, all that effort and I wanted to do the CCKN! After much brooding, I realized that I was left with no other option, but to join the rest of the members at Kunzum Pass. I packed again and joined the team on the way back to Kunzum Pass. As time passed, the mood lightened slowly. Soon we were close and the Chandra-Bhaga (CB) range came in view. The majestic mountains lifted my spirits again, and the photographer in me lost all sense of remorse and I clicked away into my own world. We set up camp just before the Kunzum Pass at 4515 meters. It was a beautiful site. Then someone in the group pointed out to us the mountain which we would attempt in lieu of the CCKN. This unnamed peak (Peak 3a), standing at about 6100 meters was slightly lower than the CCKN, but equally challenging. The sight brought back the smile on my face and the excitement! Found: Unnamed Peak ‘3a’ near the Kunzum Pass Page | 6 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) On a Rampage August 14: This was a rest and acclimatization day, again! While I realized the value of being in a team, I was also getting restless with all the ‘rest’ days. Looking around I saw a lot of high peaks in the 5000 meters range, and decided to summit some of these. They were mostly trekking peaks and involved trotting on a lot of scree. I decided to begin by summiting a peak just off the base camp. I called it Peak ‘1c’, as it was the third most prominent peak on the same ridge. Pritam and I started on towards the peak at a slow pace, chatting all the time. The climb turned out to be steeper than we had anticipated. We reached the summit (4900 meters) after some slipping and scrambling on the scree. At the top, we were welcomed by a very beautiful sight of the landscape beyond the peak. The flora at the summit also fascinated me. Independent and High August 15: I woke up and peeked out of my tent at the beautiful morning in the sixty-two year young Independent India. For some strange reason, it seemed to me like everything around me was celebrating that day – the smile of the mighty mountains, the glow of the sun on the snow and the grass, the gurgle of the threshold brook, the grazing sheep at a distance, the wind flapping the tents and in my hair, the blue sky and the bright clouds; everything seemed happy, extending a smile to brighten the day and celebrate the occasion. Obviously this brightened my mood too, and that of others in our camp. We had to celebrate this day, and we did! As a team, we hoisted the national flag at our camp and sang the national anthem with pride. Subsequently, we decided to hoist the flag on a nearby peak ‘1a.’ The climb up to this peak was long and Flag hoisting at Base Camp on scree. We scrambled onto the top (5035 meters) after about three hours of climbing. During this accent, I also managed to summit the peaks 1c (again) and 1b (4960 meters). At the top, the team paid homage to the peak, the mother earth, the country and hoisted the ‘Tricolour’ with the feeling of patriotism running high in all. August 16: Today I had hoped that we would proceed to Camp I (High Camp) which was at a trekking distance of four hours. However, much to my frustration, the team decided to call it ‘rest and acclimatization’ day. The weather too, reflected my mood as the morning was engulfed in mist and light rain. Both Pritam and I were irked. However, with nothing else to do, we decided to day-pack to a nearby ‘Peak 2b’ (5200 meters). For this peak, we needed to take a detour on route our ultimate goal, the ‘Peak 3a.’ We trekked through some snow before we were on the summit 3 hours after starting from base camp. It was on the summit that we decided to leave the group from Kolkata and proceed at our own pace to the ‘Peak 3a’ the very next day. We returned to base camp in high spirits! Page | 7 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) August 17: The day started early at the camp. Pritam and I discussed our plan to break-off with the rest of the group. As we had come as a team from Manali, the group from Kolkata had taken upon themselves to arrange the climbing gear. However, we learnt, and to our horror, that the group was not equipped for a rocky peak as the preparation was with a particular focus on CCKN. The rest of the team had decided to attempt only the peaks ‘3e’ and ‘3f’ instead of ‘3a’ as was planned. This was a real put-off! Pritam and I ‘day-packed’ and left the base camp at 0700 hrs. The rest of the team would establish a high-camp before attempting peaks ‘3e’ and ‘3f.’ We made our way through the not-so-difficult terrain towards the peak ‘3a.’ We wanted to find out if there was any way of making it On Peak ‘3b’; Peak ‘3a’ in the backdrop atop that peak. A route from behind across a glacial gully seemed feasible. However, by the time we arrived at the mouth of the glacier, the weather started playing tricks. We faced ‘white-out’! In best interest, we decided not to take the glacier. Instead, we chose the traditional identified route across the extremely steep scree slope. After a long and tiring scurry, we found ourselves on a shoulder between peaks ‘3b’ and ‘3c.’ The view was breath-taking! Our first ascent was on the peak ‘3c’ (5700 meters). We then proceeded towards ‘3b.’ Here, there was a small stretch of very deep snow. Beyond this, and we were on the peak ‘3b’ (5800 meters). ‘3a’ was to our south rising mightily for another three hundred or so meters into the sky which was still clouded. Sadly though, we realized that it would be extremely dangerous to attempt ‘3a’ without equipment from that ridge. The south-west face was a very steep fall (about 85 degrees) to the valleys over six hundred meters away. The south-east face could offer a rough climb on rock. However, a closer examination revealed ‘dead-rock’, something which we didn’t want to risk. Pritam and I settled on ‘3b.’ This is as far as we would get in this expedition. As the weather cleared, we clicked on pictures to our heart’s content. Try as we might, our cameras could not capture the beautiful landscape as we saw it. That image we have in our hearts alone! After an hour on the peak, we began our descent. A quick lunch, a stop at a high lake – where floated double hills and shadow; and a chat with the rest of the group who were setting up the high camp, later, we were at the base camp. Here we put up for the night. August 18: We bid goodbye to those at the base camp and boarded the bus to Manali. The remaining group would take another three or so days! Through wild valleys we drove and were welcomed by a cold shower in Manali. If anything, the weather could be termed romantic! The view from the top was breath-taking! Page | 8 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) The End of a Beginning August 19: Today was a very special day for me in many ways. For on, I had learnt that my friend Pritam was an expert para-glider, and promised me a long flight from Maadi to Kothi. The 20 minutes flight was an ‘out-of-thisworld’ experience for me! It left in my mind images of the earth as I had never seen before. I can still feel the rush of the wind in my ears sometimes. For another, the ascent on peak ‘3b’ had thrilled me in a way that I felt addicted. The passion of climbing in me increased many Up, up and away! Paragliding in Manali folds! I resolved to complete my basic training the following year and attempt a peak in the 7000 meters range. With new plans and new ideas clouding my mind, I closed my eyes on the bus to Delhi. In my dreams, I probably saw shadows of high mountains and deep valleys and the smile of the bounty the nature bestows upon us. I knew then that I had resolved ‘to strive, to seek, to find and not to yield’ Mt. Satopanth (7075 meters) – Mission 2010 Page | 9 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Itinerary Itinerary as was proposed: Day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Date 7-Aug-09 8-Aug-09 9-Aug-09 10-Aug-09 11-Aug-09 12-Aug-09 13-Aug-09 14-Aug-09 15-Aug-09 16-Aug-09 17-Aug-09 18-Aug-09 19-Aug-09 20-Aug-09 21-Aug-09 22-Aug-09 23-Aug-09 Program Delhi to Manali Manali (acclimatization) Manali to Chandratal Chandratal to Langza Village Rest and acclimatization at Langza Trek to Base Camp (4950m) Ferry to Camp I (5400m), sleep at Base Camp Occupy Camp I Ferry and Establish High Camp (II) on the SW ridge of CCKN (5750m) Summit attempt Summit attempt (extra day) Camp II to Base Camp Base Camp to Langza Village Langza Village to Kaza Kaza to Manali Manali Manali to Delhi, end of trip Distance (kms) 539 124 102 2 2 2 2 1 1 4 2 12 213 539 Mode Car/ Bus Bus/ Jeep & Trek Bus/ Jeep Trek Trek Trek Trek Trek Trek Trek Trek Bus/ Jeep Bus/ Jeep Car/ Bus Actual Itinerary: Day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Date 8-Aug-09 9-Aug-09 10-Aug-09 11-Aug-09 12-Aug-09 13-Aug-09 14-Aug-09 15-Aug-09 16-Aug-09 17-Aug-09 18-Aug-09 19-Aug-09 Program Delhi to Manali Rest and acclimatization Preparation for the trip ahead Manali to Langza Rest, acclimatization and negotiation day at Langza Langza to Kunzum Peak 1c (4900m); sleep at base Peak 1c, 1b (4960m), 1a (5035m); sleep at base Peak 2b (5200m); sleep at base Peak 3b (5800m), 3c (5700m); sleep at base Kunzum to Manali Manali to Delhi Distance (kms) 539 226 101 2+2 3+3 4+4 5+5 125 539 Mode Bus Bus/Jeep Jeep Trek Trek Trek Trek Bus Bus Page | 11 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Map Ranges 1, 2, 3 CCKN Fig: Map showing the location of the planned peak – CCKN and the climbed peaks Page | 12 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Pictures Fig: View from the Kaza bus stand (Aug 11 ’09) Fig: CCKN – Standing tall behind the Langza village (Aug 12 ’09) Page | 14 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: A close-up of the peak – CCKN (6303 meters; Aug 12 ’09) Fig: The play of light on the might mountain at sunrise (Aug 12 ’09) Page | 15 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: Packed to leave Langza behind (Aug 13 ’09) Fig: Base Camp at Kunzum Pass (Aug 16 ’09) Page | 16 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: Kunzum Pass from Peak ‘1c’ (Aug 14 ’09) Fig: Peaks ‘1a’, ‘1b’ and ‘1c’ from base camp (Aug 14 ’09) Page | 17 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: On Peak ‘1b’ (Aug 15 ’09) Fig: Flora on Peak ‘1c’; CB range in the backdrop (Aug 14 ’09) Page | 18 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: On Peak ‘1a’ (5035 meters) (Aug 15 ’09) Fig: Flag hoisting at Base Camp (Aug 15 ’09) Page | 19 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: Flag hoisting on Peak ‘1a’ (Aug 15 ’09) Fig: With the team from Kolkata on Peak ‘1a’ (Aug 15 ’09) Page | 20 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: The Peaks ‘3a/b/c/d/e/f’; view from Peak ‘2b’ (Aug 16 ’09) Fig: Close-up view of Peak ‘3a’ (Aug 17 ’09) Page | 21 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: The glacier en-route Peak ‘3a’ (Aug 17 ’09) Fig: Pritam (left) and Ankur (right) on Peak ‘3b’; Peak ‘3a’ in the backdrop (Aug 17 ’09) Page | 22 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: The steep incline over scree. Picture taken en-route Peak ‘3a’ (Aug 17 ’09) Fig: On peak ‘3b’, in front of Peak ‘3a’ (Aug 17 ’09) Page | 23 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: View from peak ‘3b’ (5800 meters) (Aug 17 ’09) Fig: Snow cover on one side of Peak ‘3b’ (Aug 17 ’09) Page | 24 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303) Fig: High lake in front of the glacier (Aug 17 ’09) Fig: A herd of sheep grazing near Base Camp (Aug 17 ’09) Page | 25