SPHINGOKINE® NPThe Multilayer Skin Activator • • • • • • Reduces skin sagging Plumps and densifies the skin Reshapes dermal scaffold Flattens wrinkle depth Tightens the skin structure and tones skin tissues Usage concentration: 0.02- 0.5% Personal Care This results in visibly plumped and reshaped skin.22 + + 10% reduced sagging * Figure 1: Working mechanism of SPHINGOKINE® NP -0. adipose matrix formation and modulation of lipogenesis is stimulated by SPHINGOKINE® NP. Chemical and physical properties (not part of specifications) Form Active matter powder ≥ 90% Introduction The skin as the largest human organ functions as a mechanical and chemical protection barrier between the body and the environment. Treatment with SPHINGOKINE® NP decreased skin sagging already after 8 weeks and maintains by extended application. .and adipocyte-derived signals.24 Vehicle 0. 8.20 -0. The unique short-chain ceramide SPHINGOKINE® NP was found to stimulate the cross-talk between cells throughout the skin. This leads to strengthening. The activity of SPHINGOKINE® NP proceeds even into the deep layer of the skin. the protection barrier of the human skin.14 -0. the molecule can reach all different skin layers from the epidermis to the dermis and even the subcutaneous tissue. the sagging degree of the skin. Figure 2 shows the degree of skin sagging during the application period.difference of expert grading score to start -0.INCI name (PCPC name) (PCPC Caprooyl Phytosphingosine (proposed) communication between keratinocytes and fibroblasts and dermal matrix stimulation by keratinocyte-derived signals.05 vs. which results in denser subcutaneous fat tissue. which ultimately results in additional support of dermal ECM. It is made up of different layers. Skin sagging . skin density/echogenicity. SPHINGOKINE® NP graded by experts. 50 ± 10% relative humidity). The following parameters have been evaluated: skin roughness (wrinkle depth). In addition. factors that stimulate dermal cells (fibroblasts) are induced by SPHINGOKINE® NP. (Statistics: tstart). Both formulations. one containing 0. the adipose tissue. Stimulation of adipocytes by SPHINGOKINE® NP leads to induced cross-talk between adipocytes and fibroblasts. It provides multilayer activity improving the state of the various skin layers (Figure 1). and 12 weeks in temperature and humidity-controlled rooms (24 ± 2ºC. In vivo facial study Caucasian women (aged 50-70 years) participated in this study. In the dermal parts of the human skin.18 T8-T0 T12-T0 + + -0. It functions as signaling sphingolipid. the outermost epidermis with the main barrier function and the subjacent dermis. The skin measurements were carried out at the beginning and after 4. Below the dermis the hypodermis or subcutaneous tissue is located. densifying and smoothing effects of the stratum corneum. dermal matrix formation is stimulated by keratinocyte.12 T4-T0 -0. Besides that.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP In the epidermis SPHINGOKINE® NP functions as signaling molecule for keratinocyte differentiation. leading to improved sagging Figure 2: Degree of sagging skin relative to the beginning after 4.16 -0. The formulations were applied twice daily on the face. and 12 weeks of application of experts. 8. start). SPHINGOKINE® NP supports the dermal scaffold function by inducing fibroblast-derived signals for improved ECM (extracellular matrix) organization.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP and the vehicle formulation were each tested by 30 volunteers in a half-side test. In addition. but also across different skin layers and between different skin cell types is very important for the proper function of the skin. Communication between the cells within a certain skin layer. Due to deep penetration of SPHINGOKINE® NP. Finally digital images have been taken. Student’s t-test + p<0. This communication takes place via cell signaling molecules like adiponectin and leptin which are capable of controlling the action of the surrounding tissue. Application of SPHINGOKINE® NP leads to structure improvement of all skin layers. vehicle). An example picture taken from the ultrasound scanner illustrates quite well these results. tapplication of SPHINGOKINE® NP. weeks (a) before. . The lighter the structures appear. These findings can further be confirmed by measuring skin echogenicity/skin density. The epidermis is strengthened. ** p<0.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP. 8.01. vehicle). The images show ultrasound pictures of the skin at the defined time points.01 vs. and 12 weeks of application of NP.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP Figure 4: Skin echogenicity/skin density relative to the echogenicity/skin beginning after 4. + p<0.1 vs. The depth of the wrinkles near the eye is visibly reduced 12 weeks after application of 0. (*) p<0. 8. vehicle).delta Sa [ m] 220% improved density * ++ 0 T4-T0 -2 T8-T0 T12-T0 ** -4 ++ (*) ++ + 0 T4-T0 -1 -2 T8-T0 T12-T0 -6 ** -8 5-fold reduced wrinkle depth * Vehicle 0. start. (Sa)/wrinkle Figure 6: Skin surface roughness (Sa)/wrinkle depth relative to the beginning after 4.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP + Vehicle 0. In addition. the denser is the skin tissue. After 12 weeks about 5-fold improvement of wrinkle depth compared to the vehicle formulation could be observed. the These effects can also be seen in the PRIMOS Pico images in figure 7. Skin roughness .01. p<0.difference to start [%] 4 3 2 1 Figure 5: Ultrasound scanner picture of one panelist Finally. it can be seen that the depth of oral commissures and smile lines in the area at the mouth can be reduced by SPHINGOKINE® NP. This effect was statistically significant compared to the vehicle control already after 8 weeks of application. and 12 weeks of NP. ** p<0.05 vs. tSPHINGOKINE® NP. (Statistics: Student’s ttest ++ p<0.01 vs. A significant increase in echogenicity of more than 200% compared to the vehicle formulation could be observed after 12 weeks.The reduction of sagging skin degree after application of SPHINGOKINE® NP can also be seen in the images in figure 3. The sagging skin regions in the chin area have been improved and the contour of the face is visibly lifted. Figure 3: Digital images of two representative volunteers. Skin echogenicity . (Statistics: Student’s t-test ++ vehicle). dermal scaffold is reshaped and the subcutis is densified and plumped. the skin roughness was evaluated. start. Figure 6 shows that application of SPHINGOKINE® NP led to a decrease of skin roughness. (b) 12 weeks after application of 0. SPHINGOKINE® NP markedly improved skin echogenicity/skin density already after 8 weeks of application compared to the vehicle (Figure 4). there are no 3rd party rights covering the usage of SPHINGOKINE® NP in cosmetic formulations. Preparation of a W/O emulsion (cream or lotion): SPHINGOKINE® NP is added to the oil phase of the emulsion and heated up to 75-80°C until it is completely solubilized. Thereby. For cold processed emulsions it is recommended to solubilize SPHINGOKINE® NP in pentylene glycol. SPHINGOKINE® NP has a multilayer activity which could be shown in various in vitro studies on different skin cells. It improves keratinocytefibroblast and adipocyte-fibroblast cross-talk. . Then the emulsion is prepared as usual. (a) before. Formulation hints SPHINGOKINE® NP is best soluble in polar oils like TEGOSOFT® G 20 and TEGOSOFT® APM or in solubilizers like pentylene glycol.02 – 0. The emulsion viscosity can be adjusted by using hydrocolloids like carbomer (TEGO® Carbomer types) or xanthan gum. Preparation of an O/W emulsion (cream or lotion): SPHINGOKINE® NP is added to the oil phase of the emulsion which has to be heated to 75-80 °C until SPHINGOKINE® NP is completely solubilized. Therefore.2% applications Possible applications • • • • Anti-aging face care Anti-sagging products Facial contour products Shaping creams and lotions Packaging 0. shaping creams for face and body and products for improving facial contours. is given in our material safety data sheets. significantly tighter skin and toned skin tissues. clinically tested at 0. it is recommended to substitute a part of the oil phase by these polar oils. These effects lead to reduced skin sagging. Recommended usage concentration 0.2% SPHINGOKINE® NP. SPHINGOKINE® NP provides a reshaped dermal scaffold and supports the structure of adipose tissue leading to plumped and densified skin. Figure 7: PRIMOS Pico images of two representative volunteers volunteers. (b) 12 weeks after application of 0.5%. The results of this study demonstrate that SPHINGOKINE® NP reduces signs of gravitational aging. Then the emulsion is prepared as usual. Taken together.To the best of our knowledge. In addition. SPHINGOKINE® NP is an innovative active ingredient for different kinds of anti-aging applications like anti-sagging products. wrinkles can be flattened by application of SPHINGOKINE® NP.25 kg Claim summary • • • • • Reduces skin sagging Plumps and densifies the skin Reshapes dermal scaffold Flattens wrinkle depth Tightens the skin structure and tones skin tissues • • • Hazardous goods classification Information concerning • classification and labelling according to regulations for transport and for dangerous substances protective measures for storage and handling measures in accidents and fires toxicity and ecological effects Patent position A patent application describing the use of SPHINGOKINE® NP in cosmetic formulations for reduction of skin sagging was filed by Evonik Industries AG. A detailed test summary report (technical dossier) is available on request. Perfume Preparation: 1. Ceramide EOS . D and Z and stir well. including but not limited to import and export regulations.10% 3.00% 0. Homogenize.40 % SPHINGOKINE SPHINGOKINE® NP Pentylene Glycol Phase Z Preservative.15% 0. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user A 03/12 . 0.15% 0.00% 4. Combine phase A and B without stirring.10% 1.05% 1. Cholesterol. Dilauryl Citrate) TEGOSOFT® G 20 (Octyldodecanol) TEGOSOFT® OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGO® Carbomer 140 (Carbomer) TEGO® Carbomer 141 (Carbomer) Xanthan Gum Phase B Glycerin Water Phase C Sodium Hydroxide (10%) Phase D 79. Mix ingredients of phase A.s. 4.00% 80. Mix ingredients of phase A.00% 2.00% 4.Guide Line Formulations Face Lifting Serum (MAC 753/2/7) Phase A TEGO® Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate.00% 7. 3. Cetyl Alcohol.00% 7. Add phases C. Glycerin. Since global regulatory requirements differ. 2. Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Especially concerning Active Ingredients This product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States. D and Z and stir well. Caprooyl Sphingosine) Water Phase C Sodium Hydroxide (10 %) Phase D Sphingokine® NP Pentylene Glycol Phase Z Preservative. Shaping Body Lotion (MAC 753/2/5) Phase A 2.60% q. 3. 0. q.00% 0.10% 3. Ceramide NS. Perfume Preparation: 1. Combine phase A and B without stirring. and Mexico). Caprooyl Phytosphingosine. Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate. 2.s. Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate. Dilauryl Citrate) TEGOSOFT® G 20 (Octyldodecanol) TEGOSOFT® OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGO® Carbomer 140 (Carbomer) TEGO® Carbomer 141 (Carbomer) Xanthan Gum Phase B Glycerin HyaCare® 50 (Hydrolized Hyaluronic Acid) SKINMIMICS® (Ceteareth-25.s.00% q. parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations.s.00% 2.00% TEGO® Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate. Behenic Acid.15% 0.15% 0. Ceramide EOP. Ceramide AP. Add phases C.95% q. 2. Homogenize.00% 0.10 % 1. Ceramide NP. 4. Canada.