DART MANIPULATION tucks. or To move the dart fitting to a new location as a starting point for other designs.2. in some cases the slash method must be used.2 BASIC PIVOT METHOD The pivot method is one of two basic techniques used in flat-pattern design to move darts to a new location. This can be achieved by either the pivot or the slash method. The slash method is more time consuming and involves more steps than the pivot method. however. 2. the slash method is employed. the slash method achieves the desired effect accurately. The purpose of moving basic fitting darts to a different location is: To create a new design effect with darts. For example: When the new dart line(s) is curved or is an unusual shape. 2. This procedure involves tracing the sloper and pivoting on a pivot point to transfer dart fitting from one position to another. or pleats. seam lines. such as the conversion of darts to gathers. When a commercial pattern is used but variations in design are desired. DART MANIPULATION Basic fitting darts can be moved from their original positions to other locations on the pattern to create a new design. . Either method may be employed in many design creations.1 BASIC SLASH METHOD The slash method is a flat-pattern design procedure which involves cutting along and new dart lines on a pattern to move darts to a new location. SLASH AND SPREAD METHOD . MOVING THE BODICE BACK SHOULDER DART TO NECK SEAMLINE The darts of the bodice back have limited use in pattern designing. The shoulder dart is about 3 to 3½ inches The back shoulder dart is moved to the neckline by the slash method as follows: 1. make the dart about the same length as the original shoulder dart. Slash along the shoulder dart to the pivot point and also along the new dart to the pivot point and also along the new dart to the pivot point. and pin the pattern to a piece of paper to fill in the new dart opening.8 cm) away from the tip of the dart and is in line with the middle of the dart. Each dart of the bodice back has its own pivot point because there is no well-defined location for a common pivot point. Draw a dotted line to mark the middle of the new dart. The pivot point is about 1½ inches (3.MOVING DART 2.1. The shoulder dart should be kept in the upper part of the bodice back. Use a paper pattern and locate the pivot point. 7. 5. perfect the neckline seam. Draw the lines for the new dart AEA’. In this area. 2. Pivot point as shown by the dotted lines in the figure. 6. 3. Make the dotted line parallel to center back or slant it away from center back for a pleasing effect. 4. cut off excess paper. Draw a line indicating the entire length of the new dart. The bodice darts should not be combined. it may be moved or converted to seam lines such as the yoke line and the princess line. and label the pattern. Fold the dart.1. Close the shoulder dart. . 5. Cut out the pattern over the folded darts. which is a point on the center guideline slightly within the bust circle. perfect if necessary. Draw a dotted line from the bust fitting dart tip (the dart to be moved) and a solid line from the new dart position marked on the neck seamline to the bust point. Locate the new dart position directly on the neck seamline of the bodice front pattern. Check to see that the neckline remains a smooth curve over the folded dart. Locate the center of the open end of the new dart by measure. Draw the new dart from the open end (the cut edges of the pattern at the neck seam line) to the new tip. Draw the center guideline of the new dart by connecting the dart mid point and the bust point. Tape backing paper under the new dart area. Cut along the solid line of the new dart to. 4.1. . 6. the bust point. Cut along the fold line of the bust fitting dart and the dotted line drawn from the bust fitting dart tip to. Analyze the design to be developed and determine where the dart crosses the neck seamline in relation to centre front. These will serve as cutting lines. the bust point. 7. placing tape on the top side of the pattern only. The bust point will serve as a pivot point. Perfect the side seam by connecting upper and lower points with a ruler – straight line.MOVING DART 2. Label. 2. Start with a basic bodice front pattern. Locate the new dart tip. Pivot the pattern on the bust point to close the dart to be moved (the bust fitting dart) until the cut edges meet at the side seam line and tape in place.2. but not through. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO NECK SEAMLINE 1. but not through. 3. Arrows indicate where to slash. 6. the bust point. Cut on the pattern over the folded dart. Cut along the fold lines of the bust fitting and waist fitting darts and along both dotted lines to. 5. Draw the new dart by connecting the open end of the dart with the new dart tip. 3. MOVING AND COMBINING THE BUST FITTING AND WAIST FITTING DARTS TO FRENCH DART POSITION 1. Tape backing paper under the new dart area. Locate the centre of the open and of the new dart by measure. Label. to the bust point. but and through. Draw a centre guideline for the new dart from the bust point to the midpoint of the open end of the dart. Notice that a V-shaped wedge may be cut away from the open end of the dart as a result of cutting across the waist seam while the dart is folded. Locate this position on the pattern by folding the bust fitting dart and holding this dart closed while the space division on the side seam line is analyzed and marked. and a solid line from the new dart position marked on the side seam line. 2.3. but now through. Cut along the new dart line to. .1. Start with a basic bodice front pattern. Locate the tip of the new combined dart ¼” from the bust point. Pivot the pattern on the bust point to close the darts to the moved (the bust fitting and the waist fitting darts) and tape in place. Draw dotted lines from the bust fitting dart tip and the waist fitting dart tip. Perfect the side seam over the folded dart. the bust point. 4. Analyze the design to be developed and notice that both fitting darts have been moved to a lower than normal position on the bodice front side seam and that the new dart angles to the bust point.COMBINED DART 2. 2. 6. parallel to and equidistant from the centre guideline to slightly within the bust circle. 5. 7. Pivot the pattern on the bust point to close the bust fitting dart and tape in place. Cut out the pattern over the folded darts. Cut along the foldline of the bust fitting dart and the dotted line to but not through. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO THE ARMHOLE AND DIVIDING THE DART INTO TWO PARALLEL DARTS The bust fitting dart is moved to the armhole seam and divided into two darts. 4. the bust point. Next draw dotted lines from the tips of the bust fitting dart.DIVIDED DART 2. but not through. Label.1. This guideline will be used when drawing the two parallel darts. starting at the pints marked on the armhole seam. Adjust the centre section between the new darts so that open ends are equal by measure. Do not cut on the dotted centre guideline. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the two new dart positions on the armhole seam of the sloper. 1. to the bust point. Draw a dotted centre guideline from a point halfway between the new dart locations on the armhole seam to the bust point. . Place backing paper under the new dart area and tape to the pattern along outer cut edges of the new dart lines. Draw new dart lines. Cut on the new dart lines and dotted lines to. Divided darts can be drawn as parallel dart or darts that fan out. and the new dart lines. 8. the bust point. 3. Each inner line remains part of each new dart because these lines are parallel to and equidistant from the centre guideline.4. Draw the outer lines of the two darts by connecting the remaining open ends and the dart tips. Secure section with a push pin and tape in place. Locate new dart tips on inner cut edges of the new darts at the same points located in step 3. PIVOT METHOD . 6.1.2. Continue tracing around the sloper until the starting point of the new dart is reached. 3. Continue tracing the waist fitting dart till the bust fitting dart position is reached. . 2. 4. Draw the bust circle. Trace around the sloper from the new dart location. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO SHOULDER DART 1. Locate the tip of the new dart ¼”from the bust point. Remove the sloper. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the new dart position on the shoulder position on the front of the sloper. Insert a push pin through the bust point. 5. Cut out the pattern over the folded darts label.MOVING DART 2. Draw a center guideline for the new dart from the bust point to the mid point of the open end of the dart. Trace the sloper from the new dart position. The bust fitting dart now has been moved to the sloper shoulder position. Pivot the sloper to close the bust fitting dart. 5. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the new dart position on the sloper. 3.COMBINED DART 2. Draw a center guideline from the midpoint marked of the open end of the dart. 6.2. Pivot to close the waist fitting dart and continue tracing around the sloper until the top edge of the bust fitting dart is reached. Locate the tip of the new dart ¼” from the bust point. Cut out the pattern over the folded dart. Perfect the centre front connecting upper and lower points over the folded dart. Label. 9. MOVING AND COMBINING THE BUST FITTING AND WAIST FITTING DARTS AT THE CENTRE FRONT 1. 7.2. Draw the outer lines of the dart by connecting the open end and the dart tip. 2. Draw the bust circle. 8. Remove the sloper both darts have been moved and combined at the centre front dart position. . Pivot to close the bust fitting dart continue to trace until the starting point is reached. 4. Locate the centre of the open end of the new dart by measure. 7. Extend the armscye notch into the pattern and perfect the side seam if necessary. These lines are parallel to and equidistant from the center guideline. Locate.DIVIDED DART 2. Draw the outer lines of the two darts by connecting the remaining open ends and the dart tips. 6. 5. Divided darts can be drawn as parallel dart or darts that fan out. Insert a push pin through the bust point. The bust fitting dart now has been moved to the sloper seam and divided into two equal amounts. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the two new dart positions on the shoulder seam of the sloper. Trace the sloper between the two points marked on the shoulder seam.3. 2. that is. 1. Perfect the shoulder seam by connecting upper and lower points over the folded parallel darts. 4. by measure. the midpoint of the open end of the bust fitting dart. Trace around the sloper from the new dart location (closest to center front) towards center front and around to the lower edge of the bust fitting dart. 8. Locate. Mark the armscye notch as the sloper is traced. by measure. The lines are drawn from the open ends of the darts to slightly within the bust circle. the midpoint between the two dart openings on the shoulder seam. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO THE SHOULDER SEAM AND DIVIDING THE DARTS INTO TWO PARALLEL DARTS The bust fitting dart is moved to the shoulder seam and divided into two or more darts. pivot the sloper to the dart midpoint.2. Pivot the sloper to close half the bust fitting dart. Draw the inner lines of each dart first. 3. Remove the sloper. Trace around the sloper from the top of the bust fitting dart to the second dart point marked on the sloper. This guideline will be used when drawing the two parallel darts. Pivot the sloper to close the rest of the bust fitting dart. Draw a center guideline from the midpoint marked on the shoulder seam to the bust point. . Cut out the pattern over the folded darts label. Draw the bust circle. . PRACTICE PROBLEMS .