world of textilesReferences Worldwide issue twelve www.monforts.com ” ATE’s strength helps Monforts grow in India The trend is towards intelligent dyeing and drying technology for minimum use of energy and fashionable fabrics. is committed to reducing energy consumption by its customers. gas and electricity plus the rising price of commodities. KG BlumenbergerStrasse 143 – 145.Monforts provide energy solutions Contents The ever increasing costs of utilities including water. such as cotton. John Hooper.de info@textil. Managing Director Amongst the world’s best 22 India Continuous dyeing range with Econtrol for NSL Textiles 26 India 28 Energy Towers Six Energy Towers for Nishat Mills 31 Teleservice Issued by A. Against this background of irreversible high costs for primary energy. Turkish delight Special focus will also be for new finishing aspects of Technical textiles.de Editors: Klaus A Heinrichs. New developments in continuous dyeing of PES/ cellulosic blends Rolland Hampel. D-41061 Mönchengladbach. India 13 Indonesia On parade in Indonesia 14 Spain Monforts technologists ‘a hidden gem’ 16 Turkey 17 Germany Custom made solutions 18 The Possehl Group Possehl post record sales 21 India’s commission dyers meet demand for open-width knits 21 Technical article On behalf of our Customer Services Department we are also able to offer modernisation and upgrade kits for our customers with older Monforts ranges to allow them to remain competitive and achieve the highest quality standards and reproducible results.monforts.Germany www. Monforts. New premises Advert Feeling at home already 4 Heat recovery Italian textile producers reap benefits of heat recovery 8 Germany All new Montex solution – a first for BWF Protec’s special requirements 10 India “We will therefore be giving special emphasis to energy saving solutions and environmental protection at ITMA 2011. Peter Tolksdorf Photography: Joem Promotions Layout & Design: Alan Humphrey 2 | world of textiles issue twelve Linked to the world 32 China Happy in Shenzhen – but hold the snake! 33 Austria No Massifs in Shenzhen 34 Indonesia Taking the lead in Indonesia 35 3 . Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. as a market leader in manufacturing dyeing and finishing machines for woven and knit fabrics.monforts. are forcing textile producers to seek energy savings in a bid to maintain margins. a mechanical engineer who knows the Montex stenter like the back of his hand. everything would have taken a lot longer.As a company veteran of 40 years he knows the location well.” stresses Monforts authorized officer. And yet they have been very quick to recognize and appreciate the advantages of their new surroundings. communication | world of textiles issue twelve between the employees has become even more intense. not only the long-serving members of the workforce. retrofits and modernizations When a request for spare parts comes in. uniform structure has helped to optimize cooperation and teamwork by enabling a more regular exchange between the departments. Klaus A. is to be carried on by another company with a long tradition. A tour of the new premises highlights the many benefits of the move. As project manager.“But I’ve settled in well.” Teleservice is an important part of the service division. The second stage is for us to offer our teleservice. although it is planning to relocate its production next year. The administration team has moved into three floors of the new office building and centralized its structures. about to celebrate 30 years with the company next year. just next door deal with calls from North America. Without it. the order processing department within the service division takes care of preparing a quote. The new. The Schlafhorst Businesspark in Mönchengladbach is a location with a long tradition in the textile industry. making communication easier. This is where the well-known textile machinery builder Schlafhorst once built its spinning machines. Poos is responsible for plant rebuilds. Asia and Australia. The distances between them are short. 5 . and the parking situation is excellent. who is in charge of spare parts sales and distribution. Costing. In short: I feel quite at home. Heinrichs. Monforts has rented some 2200 m² of office space and a production area of around 3700 m² in the Schlafhorst Businesspark. “I am responsible for Europe. who works in after-sales service offering support and assistance with problems over the telephone. Oerlikon Textile still produces here today. Turkey. monitoring cost structure and solving problems is the responsibility of Konrad Wilms. One of the people connected to the world is Michael Sieberichs. Leaving the old premises on Schwalmstraße after 127 years was undoubtedly difficult for everyone.The electrical and mechanical design departments can now work hand in hand within sight of each other.” The design engineers have set up their new home on the first floor. 4 Administration building ground floor The ground floor of the modern administration building is the new home to the service division.“First of all we try to help on the phone. everyone has settled in nicely and the feeling is unanimous: it has all been worthwhile. Morocco or the USA in fluent French and English. “We are pleased that the location’s textile tradition. Just a few weeks on. considering the more compact layout and open. “We here they are much closer together.” explains Businesspark head Josef Hellenbrand and has actively supported the Monforts move. This is where Wolfgang Poos. Previously the departments were distributed around the premises. also works. Here Ute Westermeier and several of her colleagues handle enquiries from India. Everything is within easy reach. which has been shaped by Schlafhorst for so many years. brightly designed production and of- are very grateful for that support.” He never imagined that he would one day have his office here too. fice spaces. Africa and Central and South America. and the offices are open and inviting. Little wonder.” His colleagues. we had a number of meetings with our business associates here. Electrical technicians and engineers like Norbert Sieben. “From Schlafhorst days.New premises Feeling at home already A new home for the company is proving very successful for everyone with staff settling in very quickly following its recent move. The mechanical design department was previously divided between two floors but has now been brought together on a single floor. Ulrich Geusen has a special connection with the owners of Monforts. The rear of the production hall is the new domain of the apprentices and their training manager Alexander Meissner. simply as ‘Hein’ and has been “monforized” over the past 42 years. The sales division is the “doorway” to the company. who is known Along with her other colleagues in Sales. German plant engineering and marketing are the responsibility of Klaus A. Asia or Africa. He works in small parts shipping.” But he too can see all the advantages: “It’s brighter. regionally and nationally as an innovative mechanical engineering firm. shifting loads of up to three tonnes.The preliminary quotes are also prepared here. or several sections are grouped into an assembly. Dirk takes place. It is here that the drive technology for the Monforts machines is developed. From here the company’s fortunes are directed and its structures managed. Norbert Kremers works within sight of his colleague in the spare parts store. Two technical drawing and two commercial apprentices are also employed.New premises Production hall The 2700m² production hall is where all the work leading up to a Frank Studlarek agrees. Here in the apprentice workshop. keeps an overview as head of the shipping department. As head of Accounts and Controlling. Klaus Penris in Accounts has the company finances firmly under control. The initial contact is usually made via the representatives around the world. has everything under control. the skilled machine fitter. as this is where the customer enquiries arrive. Jürgen Hein. The Possehl Group is headquartered in Lübeck and holds quarterly meetings at which Geusen discusses procedural matters and strategy. Selma Gülcelik is responsible for project development and deals with the incoming enquiries. These eight trainees are currently learning the ropes at Monforts for their future careers. friendlier and more compact – the move has definitely made a difference!” pany’s service division. software developed and programming 6 | world of textiles issue twelve 7 . who began his apprenticeship at Monforts in 1967. “I never thought I would find myself working in a new hall again. The skilled fitter checks goods received and take care of quality assurance. there has been a significant improvement in dialogue. where the circuit diagrams are produced. Here too. from a nut to a three-tonne radiator. and has been with the company since 1966. The design department is next door to the electrical lab. where he is in charge of the 4000 or more different spare parts. Meissner is training four electronics technicians. Heinrichs. But first to incoming goods: Peter Tengler has been working for Monforts for 48 years. All objects are built in 3D and drawings derived from them. who take direct care of the customers and are familiar with conditions in the various countries in America. who also makes sure that Monforts is recognised locally. The next generation is already following in his footsteps: his daughter works in the com- Administration buildingsecond floor The last stop on the tour is the second floor. Whatever their size. Esser is working with Pro/ENGINEER. work here. Possehl. parametric 3D-CAD software also known under the name of ProE or Pro/E. delivery comes together. if calculated as an 8-chamber stenter. If evaluated as an 8chamber unit it equates as 111 m³/h. The 5-chamber Montex 5000 consumes 37m³/h which. Gas consump- tion in the 8-chamber Montex 6500 is just 28m³/h. TMR Cederna Fodere SpA has two Montex stenters in its finishing operation. Featuring large diameter vertical tubes. In comparison. which is installed within the roof structure of the stenter. air-to-air heat exchanger. providing a significant reduction of 56 m³/h. Downtime on the system can be reduced using optional automatic dry cleaning device which eliminates the need for water or chemicals to ensure that the system is always operating at maximum efficiency. Its non-Monforts 6-chamber stenter. logo 8 | world of textiles issue twelve 9 . Depending on production conditions. with reduced gas consumption. lining fashion wear producer. in its Gallarate facility. one without. without a heat recovery system. a Montex 6500 fitted with heat recovery.Heat recovery Italian textile producers reap benefits of heat recovery system Figures recently released by three Italian textile producers identify significant energy savings with reduced gas consumption. The heat recovery system comprises a compact. one a Montex 5000 without heat recovery and the second. the heat exchanger requires very little maintenance with extended service every one – two months depending on production cycles. The integrated system in a spacesaving rectangular design eliminates the need for heavy support and access structures above the stenter. Records maintained by Giovanni Clerici & Figli SpA over the past 18 months have indicated a large reduction in gas consumption. have been made by three Italian textile producers – Giovanni Clerici & Figli SpA. equates at 59m³/h. Clerici’s 8-chamber Montex 6500 with heat recovery is consuming just 55m³ /h. TMR Cederna and Tintea . Dye house specialist Tintea ran two identical 2000 m long batches through its 8-chamber Montex 6500 stenter – one batch with heat recovery. The second company. The integrated heat recovery system is part of Monforts on-going effort to reduce energy consumption in the textile industry and is now fitted as standard to all its Montex 6500 stenters. now fitted as standard on the company’s Montex 6500 stenters. directly attributed to the heat recovery system. this provides energy savings of 10 – 35% and a typical pay- back period of around just 12 months.The heat exchanger uses energy from the exhaust gas to preheat up to 60% of the incoming fresh air entering the stenter. has been consuming 83m³/h. Significant energy savings. It found a 20% gas savings for the batch produced using the heat recovery system. and reduces the amount of ductwork required.thanks to the heat recovery system fitted to their Montex 6500 stenters. Basofil. Germany. medical equipment and grinding and polishing markets. P84.” explained BWF Protec Managing Director. The company even manufactures certain products with Bekinox stainless steel fibres. Twaron. glass and steel plants and on to the furniture.Germany | Technical Textiles All new Montex solution – a first for BWF Protec’s special requirements All the stops were pulled out for the engineering and commissioning of a special Montex stenter line for Germany’s BWF Protec. “Our business is small quantities of usually very high performance materials for special niches. in addition to high value performance fibres such as Conex.” Industries supplied with materials by the company range from the aerospace. Dieter A. “We are not making commodities of thousands of square metres. Kermel. protective clothing. The staple fibres which are processed include all natural and conventional synthetics. a very versatile and unique Montex stenter solution was needed to meet all requirements. automotive and trans- 10 portation sectors to aluminium. BWF Protec nonwovens are manufactured in thicknesses of 1mm to 25mm. all of which are carded pre-needled and then finish needled prior to reaching the stenter.” He continued.” Mr Huber explains. PTFE and Zylon. As a consequence. Huber. Based in Hof. This is in addition to many special blends. an off-the-shelf system was not enough. Where it is. “Due to this extremely wide range. ”We have five product managers who are all specialised textile engineers and follow industrial developments around the world to identify areas where a customised needlefelt solution would be appropriate. BWF Protec is involved in so many industrial niche markets that its range of needlepunched materials is perhaps the widest available from any single source. in widths of 50cm to 260cm and in fabric weights of 100gsm up to 5. we can provide it. Pyron.500gsm. Kynol. “We required an ‘all-singing and | world of textiles issue twelve 11 . and 53% synthetics and other fabrics. because the domestic industry is so strong. specialising in environmental solutions. adding chemical treatments or heat setting. and invited a very large group of potential customers from India so they could see the machinery at work and talk to the people there.” Mr Aras says that the strength of the Monforts brand in India is now leading the way to producers investing in the company’s continuous dyeing technology. BWF Protec at Hof in Northern Bavaria has 60 employees. and Monforts began looking for complete end-toend solutions. By 2007 with a complete restructuring of the ATE Group. Turkey. which makes wool felts. “70% of our population lives in the rural areas. Whereas a few years ago cotton and cotton blends had the greater share of the domestic market. India’s fabrics sector was divided between cotton at a 65 % share while 35% was synthetics and other fabrics.. “Monforts used the strength of its stenter brand to enter the continuous dyeing sector. and the shares are now 47% cotton. Domestic consumption is growing. the shape of India’s textiles sector is changing. and with Monforts we also have the great advantage that we have three sources we can draw on. and Profiles. the Far East and locally. “Although we face competition in the stenter sector with other manufacturers. “ATE has over the course of many years built up a service strength that is dedicated to sup- has the largest stenter population in India. Having pursued a policy of global expansion. and as with the stenters we enter into an after-sales service agreement with our customers in which we undertake to keep the machines in good health. there is no one who can offer the same level of quality and technical support. It is also equipped with a heat recovery unit for added efficiency. in turn. “This is the first Monforts stenter in the whole group. with preventive maintenance and fast delivery and installation of spare parts. One is on the very tips of chair-legs 12 to ensure there is no scratching to wooden or marble floors.” | world of textiles issue twelve India’s growing economic prosperity is resulting in a growth in the domestic textiles and garments sectors. the company now has plants in Italy. “So in this way we offer the best and the fastest options possible. that position has now been reversed. their use throughout industries worldwide is substantial and highly valued – the secret to success in niche market manufacturing. and we ourselves are very confident that with our brand names and the quality of the technology and service they and we can supply. the future is a very promising one for us.” The Montex 6500 8F Twin Air system has eight 3m chamber compartments and a total length of 53m. “In some applications low melt fibres are introduced and once activated can make the nonwoven rock-hard like wood. Mr Aras says that the company is closely following the new trend towards technical textiles. but I have to say that in deciding to go with Monforts. Three or four years ago. ATE porting Indian manufacturers.” A special requirement was the reinforced horizontal chain. In 1954 the founder’s son. with 65% of its output exported outside Germany to 53 different countries. In 1997 it had entered into a manufacturing agreement to assemble Monforts stenters under the Motex brand name at a factory in Ahmedabad. and in fact the textile and garment industry was not really hit by the global financial crisis of a couple of years ago. The group has three other divisions – Envirotec.” Until recently.” Mr Huber explained. from Europe.” Mr Huber concludes. A second is as a manufacturing component in the pressing of steel. ATE has now set up a new synthetic machinery division. representing leading manufacturers. This is closer in line with the world situation of 63% synthetics and 37% cotton. in addition to Germany. and supplied us with complete support. Consumption drives quality. “These machines come from Germany. Inspiron here in India.This is backed up by 10 ATE offices throughout the country. as the company with the engineering and technology know-how to meet our specific needs. Feltec. For ATE. and the rural people now have a lot more cash in hand. “The horizontal chain is very important because when you are producing materials with thicknesses of 25mm. which produces its own version of the Montex 6500. Founded as Associated Textile Engineers in 1939 by S H Bhagwati.” says Gurudas Aras. this presents more opportunities. but this also requires heavy investment in the best technology and.” says Mr Aras. One of the most significant moves came when Monforts organised a conference in Germany dedicated to continuous dyeing.Germany | Technical Textiles India ATE’s strength helps Monforts grow in India all-dancing’ solution. with synthetics and other fabrics trailing. given the enormous size of the Indian population.” The ATE Group. “It was enormously effective and has helped to open the Indian market for the Thermex continuous dyeing range. and the Monforts joint venture in China. we did the right thing. Three or four years ago this began to change. The government has increased the base price of cotton grain by up to 40% and this money has gone to the farmers and the villages. think about the strength that is required to keep them in place. “So far we have used competing technology.” 13 .marketing and after sales representation for Monforts and the Motex machines now made by Inspiron Engineering. “But there is no doubt the developments are all very positive ones. China and India. which produces the Montex 6500. The gas-powered unit can operate at a maximum temperature of 230°C and the company is running it at speeds of from 1m/min up to 50m/min. Monforts is now the largest supplier of continuous dyeing machines in India. joined the company and they began to import European textile technology to India.” The applications for such extremely heavyweight and often inflexible materials can be surprising.300 employees worldwide. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH in 1975. a keen eye on the part of equipment manufacturers and suppliers to recognise trends and supply solutions to meet them. ATE had begun representation of A. and the changes are profound ones. and as consumers become wealthier they are demanding better quality.” says Mr Aras. director. Monfongs. At the same time. “India’s economy is growing at the rate of 8% per year. These changes represent great opportunities for entrepreneurs. “This is driving consumption. “This is all part of growth and shifting tastes and patterns. “This all helps of course to maintain Monforts’ good reputation in the market. spreading its wings beyond its traditional strong area of short staple and cotton textiles. headquartered in Mumbai. he says. Monforts has created its own competition. a thermoplastics materials business. “With the stenter we can do one of two things. its initial function was to sell textile machinery in India. We see a very bright market ahead. for we maintain a presence in all the important textile centres. “This is all happening very quickly. which has a turnover of €160 million and 1. Textile Engineering Group. And after extending to technical textiles a few years ago. Such materials obviously have to be cut into sheets immediately because they can’t be rolled. namely Monforts in Germany. and Monforts didn’t disappoint with the specially customised machine model they delivered. is today a formidable force in India’s textile and garments industry. yet it started off as a modest operation. Atul Bhagwati. the USA. While such applications may involve very small amounts of material individually. There is no other competitor like this in the market. director of the Textile Engineering Group at ATE Enterprises Pvt Ltd. BWF Protec is part of the BWF Group. Quality drives technology. India’s textile sector was undergoing very fast expansion and producers Gurudas Aras. ATE Enterprises was appointed the sales. | world of textiles issue twelve Finishing Process “Each Montex stenter receives at least two passes and frequently three. flame retardant. with the Bundeswehr Authority bi-annually inspecting quality and systems.” “Another factor was stability of colour particularly with camouflage uniforms. The first for setting. Fabric weights of between 100 gm/m² . From these humble beginnings.mosquito finish and infra-red reflectance. Originally founded by Mr. “we have grown to recognise 14 the superior quality. insect repellent.T. a 140 gm/m² fabric will run at 70m/min.” On parade . These treatments can include water repellent. Lukminto.” Iwan went on to say. Today.” “It was a totally different market to fashion wear with the military demanding a higher performance and durability with. P. Lukminto.” confirmed Iwan.” “We therefore learnt about quality. Lukminto started a dyeing process for hand piece dye fabrics from home. all ordered through local representative P. has commissioned its two latest Montex stenters. During the 70’s the company introduced finishing using a mix of Japanese and Taiwanese stenters and introducing its first European marque. and the second for finishing. environmental issues. Recognised as South East Asia’s largest integrated vertical textile-garment manufacturing company and one of the world’s leading producers of military uniforms.400 gm/m² are processed. By 1970 he had moved into a new factory introducing more advanced dyeing and printing techniques before moving to larger premises in 1978. Lukminto in 1966 as a market trader in Solo city textile market. however with so many special treatments. a third pass is frequently necessary.T. According to the founder’s son and Company President. Sri Rejeki lsman. Lukminto introduced the company’s first Monforts Montex stenter in the early 1990’s. robust strength and after-service back-up provided by Monforts and their representative Primatek. For the camouflage fabrics both a dye and print process can be used printing up to twelve colours. The fabrics pass through the stenter at speeds dependant on the weight. an anti . Iwan S. Mr.Indonesia | Special finishing On parade in Indonesia South East Asia’s largest integrated vertical textilegarment manufacturing company and one of the world’s leading producers of military uniforms.military uniforms Today. “Today the requirements from the military are getting even higher with narrower tolerance and colour fastness. making a total of eight Montex stenters at the Indonesian producers facility. P. Sritex now has eight Montex Iwan S. This led to an enquiry from Germany. the company is recognised as a leading producer of military uniforms. Primatek Technologies. he sold fabrics from a 3m x 3m stall. 15 . for example. Recognising the quality attained with the superior European manufactured stenters.T. stain defender. President. anti infra-red and breathable finishes for the uniform fabrics.T Sri Rejeki Isman stenters. compliance with human rights and company social responsibilities. The company is an authorised licensed printer for the German Army and regularly supplies to several armed forces in Europe.” Germany is today still a key customer. in addition to the Montex stenters. the company also has a Thermex and Sanforiser in its production process. “It was my father who first recognised the potential for military uniforms” said Iwan “He saw that the Indonesian army needed more quality uniforms to a higher requirement – which at the time we could not meet. Typically for example. Mr. Sri Rejeki lsman. supplying military uniforms for no fewer then 26 countries worldwide. P. Aguilar was founded in 1876 by Carlos’s great grandfather. which.” Turkish delight Turkish dyeing and finishing of synthetic knitted fabrics specialist Yalcin Tekstil has installed a third Montex. World recession The small recovery of 2007 was soon to be halted in 2008/9 and the world recession.” confirmed Mr Arin. it proved short-lived. the new company has also sought agencies in other areas such as chemical and environmental and being active with another company in the group involved in food and packaging. ITMA will help to provide a realisation for survival.” Despite a slight recovery in 2007 – when Spanish textile companies had recognised that to survive it needed to increase its production and quality. companies like ours have to not only maintain their quality. universities and many of the country’s leading IT companies. the intention of adding the latest machine was to be able to offer faster and more flexible production times to its customers. Consequently. for German and French textile producers in Germany and France. selling yarns in Barcelona. the market is still seeking new equipment. “We specialise in the treatment of synthetic warp knit fabrics ranging from 20 gm/m2 to 350 gm/m2. Meeting the cyclical nature of the textile business. Alone we would have found it more difficult to survive. polyamide or elasthane blends. Aguilar has enjoyed considerable success. Aguilar & Pineda. Working in retail. some is for our own elastic warp knitted fabrics. Carlos joined the family business in 1971 and together with his cousin was at the forefront of Spain opening its borders and minds to buying European equipment: including Monforts. and also circular knit fabrics of polyester. and in greatly varying quantities. Many of our commission dyers have gone. which included two World Wars and the Spanish civil war. to tight deadlines.” Where so many of the former textile ‘barons’ closed their mills and sold the land for redevelopment. a new trend is for Monforts modification/upgrade kits. Consequently. as a direct result of its low salaries. According to Carlos Aguilar Peyra. reversing trends five years ago to move to Asia. one of the strongest advantages. Despite 2010 showing signs of a new recovery. Some dyers. Snr Blas Aquilar. and that small production runs are easy to cater for because of the simplicity of the com- puterised operation. Key to survival not lending money. already has its sixth generation of the family owned business waiting in the wings. Barcelona has been forced to reinvent itself such that. he soon recognised the potential demand for textile machinery. “As with all ‘club’ membership we had to follow all the rules and accept it’s ‘open door’ policy. we have recently installed a new Hotflue to an existing line to increase productivity. “For Monforts. offering more value added products. My father and uncle.” | ITMA 2011 “Whilst 2005 saw the demise of the Spanish textile industry as we knew it.” As with the earlier models. Being a French speaker – unusual in those days – proved a decisive factor in seeking information on equipment outside Spain. 17 . following the closure of so many of its old factories. for ex- “Today the Spanish textile industry cannot be defined as Spain but part of the European community. Managing Director of local representative. Several of our leading fashion houses have also recognised the need for some production to be made in Spain to meet deadlines. Local representation Since its appointment as the local representative in 1971. but also continually strive towards improvement. for example. the latest Montex is an important investment for us. Carlos and Emilio. seeking more flexibility and smaller machines with ‘add ons’ to produce different fabrics with the same unit. “Other producing countries can manufacture in bulk. “My grandfather died in 1951 with Spain totally isolated with its borders closed. Baran Arin. Survival therefore means exporting into the European markets.” “Almost immediately we started to see the influx of textiles from China and the decline in the Spanish market with the transfer to Asia. dyeing. New merger “During 2007 we further recognised that with the downturn. Eduardo de Pineda SL. were therefore very instrumental in trying to source Spanish produced textile equipment. Kurt van Wersch and Peter Tolksdorf. Carlos sees a future for the sixth generation of his family to remain a successful operation but is realistic to recognise that it will need continued internalisation to succeed and survive. The products are either destined for the domestic market or exported. In closing. Aguilar & Pineda. which also provides training and maintenance services. However this has now been reversed with Asian markets supplying both Spain and the rest of Europe with cheaper textiles. founded in 1876. we will see a return but it will be smaller. logo As the former industrial base for Spain. He is also hopeful that it will educate young people that the industry not only has a future but is a worthwhile career – after so many years as being a ‘dirty’ job. handling all aspects of textile production. Not so many years ago Spain was today’s ‘China of the world’. Spain still has problems with no investment in new equipment and banks are still ample. smaller batches and faster deliveries for the fashion industry.” “The stenter design allows the company to provide any finishing effect that is needed. “But a stenter is for 10 years minimum and companies do not have the confidence to invest at this moment in time. is the assistance provided to customers by its technologists.” “New chains with improved greasing are being installed as a more cost effective solution to increase a machine performance. Today energy costs undoubtedly play an important role. today it boasts the best training hospitals.” he adds.” Carlos is optimistic that ITMA will convince the remaining operations to continue. Masters Tekstil. Others are adding elements of control to modify and upgrade systems. together with another established family trading company. This also epitomises a mirror image of one of Monforts oldest representatives – appointed in 1971 Aguilar & Pineda and the country’s textile industry. only have workloads assured for the next three or four weeks. with Aguilar specialising in dyeing and finishing equipment and Pineda. A symposium is shortly planned to look at the state of the textile industry and the role for Spain and Europe in the next five years.” “For example. perhaps even more paramount is the efficiency and reliability of the stenter with speed.” “For sales to the larger vertical operations with long production lines and reduced workforce. membership to the European Community in 1986 was initially greatly beneficial for Spain.” Today the new company is considered to be the largest textile equipment agency in Spain.” said Mr Arin. But for the smaller dyeing and finishing operations. supplying Europe with cheap textiles. Luciano Aquilar.They world of textiles issue twelve provide a vital role in securing new business and have proved to be a real gem. spinning and weaving.” “Whilst we have not achieved the old budgets of the ‘glory days’.” “With 4 million unemployed in Spain there can be no real growth in the local market. We therefore created a new company. “However. we found 16 this to be difficult. according to Carlos.” he said. But. “The future of the industry here in Turkey lies in quality.” “A number of our bigger weaving companies have opted to become more vertical in a bid to gain control of quality and deadlines. we needed to re-establish ourselves with a new dimension and added strength. World of Textiles recently met Carlos Aguilar Peyra for an overview of Spain’s textile industry and its hopes for the future. led by Thomas Päffgen. not offered by its competitors. is also the home of one of the longest appointed representatives. “Control then passed onto his son. quality and productivity key factors together with low maintenance. As a very ‘closed door’ and protectionist country. who l attribute his greatest success to maintaining the company through a very tumultuous period. “This means that we have to supply optimum quality. proving to be extremely positive. we have been lucky to have the opportunity to achieve and adjust for the new trends. the Montex 6500 has been supplied by Monforts’ Turkish representative. Spain is suffering badly from the crash of its construction industry with massive debts. the venue for ITMA 2011.Spain Monforts technologists ‘a hidden gem’ Barcelona. According to company director. “Some work is done on a commission dyeing and finishing basis. but Turkey has the reputation for quality and fastness of service. MD. With an extensive range of processing machinery for knitting. Our success is also based on the continuous optimization of our plants. the company’s products are highly successful in many areas of technical textiles and home textiles.Germany | Technical Textiles Custom made solutions Jan Frederic Bierbaum. weaving and the production of nonwoven fabrics. the functional properties required and the finishing processes for the final product. As a result of advances in modern textile technology – including the installation of the first China-made Montex 6500 in Germany – the Borken-based Bierbaum Group is not only still producing in its home country. “Technical textiles are always custom-made solutions intended for a specific application and a tight-knit 18 cooperation between the supplier of the raw materials. “Product design is based on the correct combination of the material selection. the manufacturer of the parts and the end-user is key when it comes to developing them.” This strategy resulted in the | world of textiles issue twelve 19 .” says Managing Director Jan-Frederic Bierbaum. so that we can continuously offer higher-quality products at lower prices. Possehl benefited from the recovery of the global economy but this outcome was also attributable to the Company’s having responded in decisive fashion to economic slowing early on and to its pursuing a corporate strategy oriented around sustainability and stability.000 m of fabrics daily. The EBT almost quadrupled year-on-year to exceed the record set in 2007 by almost 8%. Precious Metals Processing. Selvam Process 21 .” says Mr Bierbaum. mbH. It is the first in Germany to have been manufactured at Monfongs. and DMA Maschinen. leaving the crisis wracked 2009 definitively behind it. Consolidated net sales also reached a new high at €1. The Possehl Group is now even more broadly based and unconstrained by trends in particular industries. the seven chamber unit is operated in three shifts around the clock and processing up to 80. KG. All of the corporate divisions realised profits.” says Mr Bierbaum.” “We therefore have every reason for optimism looking ahead to 2011. The Possehl Group is therefore ‘back on track’ for long-term growth.72 billion ● Positive net cash position improves ● Major acquisition activity ● Favourable outlook for 2011 group investing more than €2 million at its plant in Borken in 2010. producing as efficiently as possible is a decisive factor. the higher prices for commodities and precious metals. air is discharged via exhaust air ducts directly into a heat exchanger. “We have always used Monforts stenters and are very satisfied with them. “The new machine is running well and without any hitches. for gold in particular. In addition to rising orders across nearly all the divisions. The automation of such machinery along with the dedication and motivation of our staff here in Germany. after only one year of decline. According to Uwe Lüders. R. six acquisition projects were successfully concluded. KG). reliability has increased. with all divisions contributing to the overall success of the Group without any dependencies or disappointment. Karl Otto Knauf (GmbH + Co. open-width offers reduced wastage and a significant improvement in quality. Acquisitions were made in all of the three categories of ‘new divisions. created an entirely new division. Electronics and Textile Finishing Systems.72 billion. Our excellent capitalisation and liquidity also afford us opportunities for sustained growth in the years ahead – including further acquisitions. In fiscal year. having emerged from the crisis stronger than before. has resulted in our production costs becoming lower. Executive Board Chairman of L. It employs more than 8600 staff globally with almost half of them in Germany. “The energy consumption of all our machines is closely monitored and we 20 are also exploring methods of developing more cost-effective solutions. while at the same time.The Possehl Group Open width knits Possehl post record sales Preliminary figures for 2010 fiscal year ● Operating profit almost quadruples further ● Sales up to Euros1. the machine at Borken has been supplied with a stand coating device. regions or corporate divisions. The preliminary earnings before taxes (EBT) is approximately €81 million. Sales rose the strongest in the domestic market. Germany. “Given current energy costs. Sri Gayathri Colours Two commission dyers. Possehl & Co. Kleine Wolke Textilgesellschaft mbh & Co. Compared with traditional tubular knits. the company had a successful year in 2010 and today the Group is in a stronger position than ever before.” | world of textiles issue twelve Possehl closed its 2010 fiscal year with the best operating result in its 163 year history as a company. then we will buy it. including Special Purpose Construction.’ The purchase of the BÖWE SYSTEC group. have both taken deliveries of Montex 6500 – India’s first Chinese built Monforts stenters – to provide heat settings treatment and finishing in response to exporters demands for open-width knitwear. The line is also equipped with an integrated heat recovery unit via which waste heat produced in the thermal process. Excluding acquisitions. sales were up almost 33%. Selvam Process and Sri Gayathri Colours. including the new Montex 6500. Going forward this firm is to be the management company for this division. a leading provider of mailroom systems worldwide.” The Possehl Group Today. Companies within the Group enjoy a great deal of independence in the way they operate with the holding company focussing its activities on strategic and core functions necessary to manage the Group.Loganathan. which now accounts for well over 50% of total sales. The Pretema GmbH acquisition complemented our Electronics division.8m and a length of 30m.und Anlagenbau GmbH & Co. exhibiting much faster growth than most industries in Germany. as a result of its very healthy order book. and contained in the exhaust. the Monforts Chinese joint venture which now employs 650 workers and is headed by a professional management team of German and Chinese managers To further increase versatility. “We also took advantage of acquisition opportunities to expand our portfolio of businesses.’ ‘complementary acquisitions’ and ‘SME acquisitions. KG. The company was founded more than 160 years ago and is headquartered in Lübeck. Four important acquisitions were also made in the German SME sector in the fall of 2009 for the newly established SME Investments division: Hirtler Seifen GmbH. the Possehl Group comprises 130 companies spread over nine highly diversified divisions.” The installation of the latest Monforts stenter and complementary technology made a positive contribution to Bierbaum Group’s greatly improved 2010 turnover of €118 million – a figure the company believes will be considerably exceeded in 2011. With a working width of 2. boosted sales. India’s commission dyers meet demand for open-width knits In order to meet demand for openwidth knits. India’s commission dyers in the country’s main knitwear centre of Tirupur – which provides up to 20% of the Nations textiles export earnings – are seeing the introduction of a new finishing concept with Montex stenters. If a machine pays off within two to four years. allowing specialist materials – such as the dot-coated cleaning towels for industrial kitchens which are a Bierbaum Group speciality – to be produced in-line. electricity. Head of Product Management for Dyeing and Application. these aspects make the costs very difficult to calculate. Worldwide. chemicals and energy can be measured or calculated.g.5 tonnes chemicals and 280 m3 water. i.3 The calculation assumes optimum planning. This method is used to dye the cellulosic fibres with either vat or re- 1st bath (disperse dyes) 2 g/l dispersing agent 2 g/l wetting agent 10-20 g/l antimigrant 2nd bath (reduction clearing) 30 g/l hydrosulphite 50 ml/l NaOH 50% 3rd bath (reactive dyes) 2 g/l wetting agent 10-20 g/l antimigrant 4th bath (alkali) 20 g/l 3-10ml/l NaOH 250-300 g/l 5th bath 2 g/l soda ash 50% salt soaping auxiliary The complexity and unusually high chemical requirements are striking. The quality of Glauber’s salt tends to be more constant but the amounts required corrode concrete. Fixation conditions Reactive dyes are water-soluble and are therefore fixed to the cellulosic fibre in a moist medium. which is also prone to human error because of the large number of process steps involved. A. production of pale then dark shades. Both aspects are problematic for textile mills.200 m Output per day: 20. Since fastness is extremely high.e. However. globally the PDTPS process with reactive and disperse dyes is the most common (Fig. In conventional continuous dyeing methods. Monforts Textilmaschinen. water and effluent treatment. Unless this step is carried out in a separate steamer/washer. This sensitivity is found at all steps in the process. As well as outlining the problem. Reductive clearing is a good example.They require large amounts of water and chemicals Reactive dyes.2 pH Disperse dyes. at temperatures of around 210-220 °C. it is clear that the optimum method 23 . especially after application of the dyes. However. Established methods of dyeing these blends are extremely time and cost-intensive. The reduction in water and energy consumption normally has to be set against possibly higher recipe costs compared to dyeings with reactive/disperse dyes. Vat dyes are popular for all shades in Europe. So what alternatives are available? Alternative 1: The PDTPS process with vat and disperse dyes (Fig. for highquality workwear. without additional exchange of liquor in the washing unit or intensive intermediate cleaning of the padder or steamer.e. the disperse dyes used for PES are fixed by thermosoling. The absolute amount of water. However.1 22 Sensitivity to reduction Some reactive dyes are extremely sensitive to reducing agents. 1) Fig. Basic data Article: Weight: Liquor pick-up PES/CO 315 g/m 60% in dye bath and 70% in chemical bath Machinery utilisation: 70-90% depending on type of machine Batch size: 1.4 grounds. generally common salt or Glauber’s salt. which evidently depends on the energy concept used in the mill. The large number of different process steps also makes high demands on logistics and planning. One-bath process Apart from the methods outlined above. In particular. Under these conditions.3). It is easy to see that each step in the process contains the potential for errors – both in the lab and in production. However. but the quality available on the market varies considerably. the use of common salt or Glauber’s salt has a number of disadvantages: Common salt is frequently used to minimise costs. plus the cost of energy. However. which would result in inadequate build-up.Technical Article New developments in continuous dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends A paper prepared by Peter Tolksdorf. water and energy. daily output in the PDTPS process requires around 1. Because washing is not required makes the process very economical. that means fixation in saturated steam. 1. multistep processes using several liquors have been developed for continuous dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends in order to ensure that the optimum conditions are achieved for each fibre. active dyes. The high chemical requirements mainly relate to the use of electrolytes. reductive clearing is not necessary. there is also a long list of potential drawbacks: Time-consuming Very expensive process in total Labour-intensive Very high water consumption Very high energy requirements Very high chemical requirements Very high investment costs Prone to errors High environmental impact On both ecological and economic Fig. Fibre and dye-specific properties To understand why so much effort is spent on dyeing PES/cellullosic blends despite the problematic cost situation. These chemicals are needed to minimise bleeding of the unfixed reactive dye into the alkaline bath. there is not yet any real alternative on the market.e.813. Production costs are a core aspect of production planning. The complexity of the process reduces reproducibility both in lab-to- | world of textiles issue twelve bulk transfer and between batches. The disadvantage is the large quantity of hydrosulphite and caustic soda required.8-13. Washing off is not usually necessary.5. the pad-drythermosol-pad-steam process (PDTPS) has become established. gas and steam.000 m Fig. it is worthwhile looking at some fibre and dye-specific aspects. The following factors explain why this process is nevertheless very widely used around the world: Separate process steps permit the use of a wide range of reactive and disperse dyes Economic recipe costs Reductive clearing means that very brilliant shades can be dyed However. 2) As a result of these completely different dyeing requirements. cotton Alkali required to fix the dye pH 10. This paper focuses on continuous dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends with reactive and disperse dyes. this is the standard process for high-quality workwear. This saves time. Cellulosic fibres have a tendency to discolour in such conditions (Fig. However. i. careful cleaning of the machine is necessary to prevent problems in subsequent process steps which are sensitive to reduction. Dissolving the required concentration of 250-300 g/l is time-consuming and labour-intensive. Alternative 2: This process uses selected pigment dyes followed by drying and curing. it is therefore advisable to look for alternative processes. Dyeing of polyester/cellulosic wovens and knitgoods is typical of where the problems are encountered.5 Sensitive to reduction Fixation of damp goods Cotton yellows at elevated temperatures and use a considerable amount of energy. It is already clear that this an expensive method. 4) As the vat dyes are reduced to their leuco form. an objective comparison of different processes is possible. Poor quality salt often contains large amounts of calcium and magnesium salts causing hard water. e. Peter Tolksdorf Rising cost pressure remains a major issue in the textile industry and especially textile finishing due to the steadily rising cost of energy. This greatly reduces the yield of common disperse dyes (Fig. PES Sensitive to alkali pH 4-6 Reductive clearing is necessary to optimise fastness properties Fixation of dry goods … … at 200 -220 °C Reactive dyeings have to be fixed in an alkaline medium usually soda ash alone or in combination with caustic soda are used to set the pH at 10. i. reductive clearing is normally carried out after dyeing as it improves the fastness properties of the dyed substrate. it presents an alternative method which is of in- terest on both ecological and economic grounds. The PES fibre is often hardly shaded and the handle is limited. build-up is restricted. Although some disperse dyes are sensitive to reduction during the dyeing phase. Chemicals required for the PDTPS process (guide recipes): Fig. The idle time will also increase because of precipitations on the guiding rollers. interaction with auxiliaries such as urea and dispersing agents and the disperse dyes could not be entirely excluded. are registered trademarks. there was virtually no difference compared with the reference sample (with reduction clearing) (Fig. There is a tendency to believe that solutions that are ecologically acceptable entail higher costs. In the C06 C2S wash fastness test. However.e. ICI also published the ‘RTN’ process. The reminder here is that any type of additional thermal treatment can result in thermomigration and affect the fastness of the disperse dyes. water and energy. Thermex.8 The process for one-bath dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends outlined here is a further development of the Econtrol process. the main reasons probably related to disadvantages at the production stage. with concentrations of up to 30 g/l dye. The underlying principle is very simple (Fig. inferior reproducibility. i.5) submitted by Bayer AG in 1978 described a process for one-bath dyeing of PES/cellulosic fibres in neutral conditions. which achieve an optimum dye yield under these conditions. Econtrol. The consumption data for the Econtrol T-CA process clearly demonstrate its benefits: because it does not use separate baths and reduction clearing is not necessary. 7). These products ensure optimum build-up in the specific Econtrol T-CA conditions. Levafix or selected Remazol dyes.Technical Article Fig. A combination of dyes. The objective of the Econtrol TCA process was not to develop a solution for these highly specialised areas of workwear and sportswear. The objectives are: A wide range of shades This development was assisted by very positive experience with the Monforts Econtrol® process. However. 24 which is not always available and also has very limited solubility. The Econtrol T-CA process shows that precisely the opposite is true. In other Fig. Remazol. Since this is so obvious.6 from the ecological and economic viewpoint is most likely to comprise one-bath application of reactive and disperse dyes. Simple process regulation and carefully matched components ensure highly reliable recipes and thus good reproducibility. The process also uses 63% less water and 49% less energy (Fig. which is widely used very successfully with cotton and Viscose dyes. the goods are dried and thermosoled in special Econtrol conditions. Other additives are fixing auxiliary and process conditioner to ensure optimum fixation conditions for both reactive and disperse dyes. for example. it is more effective to use specialities developed specifically for such applications. No difference was observed in light fastness compared with the with the Econtrol Thermex hotflue. Due to their very high reactivity. Back in 1967 Kuth/Hildebrand (Bayer AG) described a one-bath thermosol-thermofixation process (TT process) using disperse and reactive dyes. This guaranties reproducible results in both the lab and production. for example. On this basis. This may have been partly because water and energy tended to play a less significant role in the overall cost calculation than they do today. After application of the dyes. In 1977 ICI (later Zeneca) published the NT (neutral thermofixation) process based on specially developed Procion T reactive dyes that could be fixed in neutral conditions. The example given above shows a reduction of 86% in chemical consumption based on daily production of 20. the colour Different blend ratios of Polyester and Cotton were used. 9). Finally a patent (P 28 09 675. with sufficient fastness properties. vat dyes for cellulosic fibres and selected disperse dyes for polyester. Fastness properties The benchmark for the quality of this process is comparison with a two-bath dyeing with reduction clearing. the development of a new process and new products therefore needs to focus on the very different requirements of cellulosic and polyester fibres. can be used to dye a wide range of shades whilst making enormous savings in process costs. the goods are dried and processed as usual. Water fastness. the specimen dyed using this process showed significant staining of polyamide in the multifibre adjacent. After thermosoling.9 Economic and ecological aspects Economy and ecology are often regarded as mutually exclusive in textile finishing. severe. which used sodium bicarbonate and urea to apply Dispersol and Procion CX dyes (monochlorotriazine reactive groups). Fig. 8). No further fixation steps are required. this was essentially a conventional thermosol-thermofixation process. The process uses high to medium reactive dyes. Besides. costs. and limited fastness properties. These data are reflected in production costs. and perspiration fastness (acid and alkaline) are equal or slightly below the reference dyeing (max. Again. etc. 6). Levafix. Light fastness B02 Wash fastness C01 (40 °C) Wash fastness C02 (50°C) Wash fastness C03 (60°C) Wash fastness C06 C2S (60 °C with perborate) Water fastness.000 m. reducing the amount of chemicals. The following ISO 105 fastness tests were tested on a variety of materials and shades (multifibre adjacent fabric). depending on their use. none of these processes became widely established on the market. tailing. the goods are fed directly into the washing unit. Selected disperse dyes are used for the PES component in the blend. This was followed by process recommendations based on dichlorotriazine reactive dyes.5 Application of all necessary products from one bath No reduction in the degree of fixation of the reactive dye compared with the standard process No reduction in the yield of disperse dyes No yellowing of cellulosic fibres Fastness properties that meet market requirements without reductive clearing Single bath liquor application Drying + thermosoling Washing-off/drying Fig. Conclusion Econtrol T-CA is a new. Special dispersing auxiliaries have to be added to the wash-off liquor to make sure the dyeing meets the required fastness specifications. these dyes (Procion MX) could be fixed with extremely small amounts of alkali. newly selected reactive and disperse dyes and process auxiliaries. In the end. severe. The dye liquor contains all the dyes and the chemicals required for fixation. As outlined at the start of this paper. the fastness requirements for PES/cellulosic vary greatly. The idea behind all these processes was that the thermosol phase could be used to bond the reactive dyes to the cellulosic fibre. 5). However. there is no reduction in yield compared with conventional processes. one-bath dyeing process for continuous coloration of PES/CO blends. However.7 words. Obviously. water and energy required reduces their impact on both the environment and operating | world of textiles issue twelve Econtrol T-CA process provides nearly 50% lower cost than standard production processes (Fig. there have been many attempts in the past to find a suitable one-bath process. combined Fig. Similarly. ½ grade). After washing off. Colour fastness The objective for Econtrol T-CA was to develop an ecologically and economically acceptable process without any concessions in respect of wet fastness. the process saves large amounts of chemicals. 25 . E01 Perspiration fastness alkaline + acid E04 standard process. they all required the use of dicyandiamide. For these articles. wash fastness tested in accordance with ISO 105 C01/C02/C03 (40°C/50°C/60°C) complies fully with the requirements for apparel (Fig. who has more than 30 years’ experience in textile manufacturing. two Monfortex 8000 sanforisers and two Montex stenters equipped with coating heads. cotton lint to garment manufacturing. would normally take at least 16 hours.” Ajay Kumar Paturi. and the Chandolu mill is the first to process and dye fabrics and consequently the first to employ a production range of Monforts equipment.to achieve its aim of becoming one of the top producers in India and to launch its own apparel brand for the retail sector.” says NSL Textiles director Ajay Kumar Paturi. We decided on a complete Monforts finishing and dyeing line because we believe in having just one manufacturer supply all the main equipment. All the Monforts equipment at NSL has been supplied and installed by the representative for India.” says Mr Paturi. and. which was commissioned earlier this year. The initial intention is to use the new plant for 100% woven cotton fabrics.India | Continuous dyeing range Continuous dyeing range with Econtrol for NSL Textiles Econtrol The Econtrol process was developed for reactive dyestuffs to meet the trend of smaller batch sizes per colour in continuous dyeing and to simplify procedures. “Investing in the highest quality technology for textiles and garments production is simply a logi- “ …. Guntur is prime agricultural land with abundant water supply. Fabric weights handled will vary from 100 to 350 g/m2.000 m of fabric per day.” says Mr Paturi. "This line gives us the capacity and the fast dyeing times that we require. NSL Textiles Ltd has installed a new continuous dyeing range at its newly opened plant that has been constructed on a greenfield site at Chandolu.” Both Montex 6500 eight chamber stenters feature a number of energy saving benefits including roof-mounted. The range comprises a Thermex 6500. The Chandolu mill was inaugurated in the second half of last year. NSL Textiles cal step for us. The range also features a 2 chamber Thermex 6500 Econtrol which reduces to a matter of minutes the process that. “We selected Monforts when we first progressed into fabrics. near Guntur in Andhra Pradesh. which is another reason for our using this technology. adding. dyeing and garment production because it is the best. This line gives us the capacity and fast dyeing times that we require…. 27 . quick and economical one-pass. “No textile company can claim to be as vertically integrated as we are. ATE Enterprises Private Limited (ATEEPL). They are both used for finishing and coating the fabrics. but the other five are all spinning mills.000 shirts a day. The plant has a capacity of 120. “We describe ourselves as being from cotton to clothing." Continuous dyeing “Monforts equipment is designed for maximum conservation measures. plus an Econtrol system for further dyeing options. has the capacity to produce 6. founded in 1973 as Nuzeevidu Seeds Ltd and which is now the largest cotton seed company in India. NSL is a producer of high-quality hybrid seeds that supply some 45% of the market and which produce some of the best quality cotton in India. Benefits make it an ideal choice for short or long batch dyeing offering a full colour range with excellent reproducibility. pad-dry-wash with drying in the Thermex hot flue at 120º130ºC and controlled humidity to obtain fixation in 2-3 minutes. Director. and our production covers everything from the extraction of 26 Top 3 target | world of textiles issue twelve Mr Paturi says the target is to be amongst the top three fabric producers in India and to market at least 50% of the fabric capacity as garment packages. working for at least 300 days per year. “Environmental considerations are amongst our priorities. if carried out to conventional cold batch dyeing methods. “We have a policy of zero effluent discharge. An Indian company that has grown from its origins in the cotton seeds business to become the country’s most vertically integrated textiles and garments manufacturer is using Monforts technology – with a purpose-ordered continuous dyeing range and Econtrol system . The process is a simple. NSL Group NSL Textiles is part of the Hyderabad-based NSL Group. This is the sixth textiles plant operated by NSL. when all the equipment was installed with the exception of the Econtrol. later progressing to polyester-cotton blends. and we have built an effluent treatment plant that is 100% effective in preventing any kind of pollution to the very valuable resources here. heat recovery systems and are for narrow-width fabrics of up to 180 cm. India | continuous dyeing range Amongst the world’s best In making the decision to move from Mumbai to its new spectacular purposebuilt production facility in Gujarat State. Installed as two lines to process and finish up to 300 cm width fabric for bed sheets and 91-150 cm narrow width for shirts and trousers.K. Executive President (Purchasing and Projects). The fabric is then washed and if ‘wrinkle-free’ treatment is specified. the fabric is fed into the 3-chamber 28 | world of textiles issue twelve 29 . two Montex stenters. “Further. India’s vertical textile producer. Two elevated VTG infrared dryers reduce initial moisture content be- fore entering the Thermex Hotflue.” he added. Depending on the operating speed.” “The Group’s first experience with Monforts was in 1996 with Century Denim taking delivery of a denim finishing range. before passing through the respective Montex stenter line for finishing as white cotton at speeds of between 40 – 100 m/min. “We never wavered from these three principles throughout the planning and implementation and had no hesitation in ordering the Monforts equipment for the new process and finishing department. the brainchild of R. was that the vertical textile facility would be world class – throughout construction and in the selection of equipment. We also wanted to incorporate the latest technology and techniques offering maximum automation.C. India’s Birla Century would be a contender for its new purpose-built production facility in Gujarat State. Monforts continuous dyeing ranges offer a quick dyeing and heat setting time in continuous mode of just three minutes. incorporating twin padders – one wide width and one narrow width. the textiles produced must also rank with the best. compared with up to 16 hours with conventional cold batch dyeing in discontinuous mode.” The new installation includes two Thermex continuous dyeing ranges – one each for narrow and wide width fabrics. responsible for managing the project from concept to completion. Garg. all ordered through local representative ATE Enterprises. two further VTG gas-heated dyers further reduce the moisture content. Birla Century had no hesitation in ordering continuous dyeing ranges and Montex stenters for its process and finishing department. scoured and bleached. if required. a Monfortex sanforiser.” said U. Dalmia. If there was a prize for the world’s best textile facility. Otherwise fabric is passed onto the 4-chamber Thermex continuous dyeing range. Following their experience with smooth working and quality finishing we opted for Monforts for the new Bharuch facility. Senior President of Century Textiles and Industries Ltd. Greige fabrics are initially singed. continuing. “The concept. 000m/day. efficient productivity and further automation is engineered in the plant. we are able to achieve the same production with 1250 workers. Before the Energy towers were installed it was necessary to raise the temperature from 35º to 160º. the new direct temperature increased to 120º. The Nishat Mills with the production facility of 270.000m/day. Following the installation of the energy towers. with automation.000 m/day for both the domestic and export markets. Textiles Nishat Mills Limited is the flagship company of the Nishat Group which was established in 1951. “As everyone knows. savings of up to 30% on energy costs can be achieved. cement. Operating 24/7. The standards are higher than ever. Adil Ghani.9m high enclosure.C.” In order to meet these issues. and because of the confidence in Monforts technology and machines. Nishat Mills has taken delivery of six Energy Towers and installed them on three existing Montex stenters at it’s Lahore finishing facility. Reactive. Executive President (Purchasing & Projects). Over three shifts this makes a total production of 288.3 m x 1. CenturyTextiles and Industries.000 spindles. Its annual turnover is Rs 48 Billion (US$ 550 Million). The decision to move from its established mill in Mumbai to the new production facility was taken in mid-2000. The daily finished fabric for packing is 160. built as ‘stand alone’ units were installed alongside the stenters. Nishat Mills General Manager – Plant. including fabrics for their own garment making operation. We need to take all possible steps to save energy. According to Mr. the company is producing 65. before re-entering the stenters chambers. He explained further. A fully vertical operation including spinning. all six Towers were installed earlier this year and. The finished fabric is then passed through the sanforiser for shrinkage treatment if required.5 million/month (5000 Euros) Calculations and figures have predicted a payback period of less than three years. paper and pulp. It is specially designed to handle heavy weight fabrics such as twills. A third Thermex was installed in 2006. so requiring an energy rise of just a further 40º – Adil Ghani. canvases. They have been designed for retrofitting to existing stenters or hot flues where access is restricted above the units. “A few years ago we employed 7000 workers but today. skirts. followed by a third Montex 6000 in 2006. Nishat Dyeing and Finishing is considered to be one of the best and largest dyeing plants in south East Asia with a strong customer base. poplins. Birla Century produce a wide range of 100% cottons and linens plus blends with natural fibres and cellular fibres. trousers. stretching and heat settings. General Manager-Plant. Fresh air passing through the towers heat recovery system is heated by the exhaust air of the stenter. such as stretch fabrics and all high density weaves. dyeing and printing capacity of 7 million metres makes Nishat the largest composite textile setup in Pakistan. All three stenters are oil heated with the average production at 85 100m/min and an average of 270gsm fabric weight.India | continuous dyeing range Energy | Towers Six Energy Towers for Nishat Mills Nishat Mills has taken delivery of six Energy Towers – the first in Pakistan ensuring significant energy savings. such as Tensil plus cotton/linen blends. Each stenter’s production is approximately 96.000 – 70. it is saving Rs0. weaving. Nishat Dyeing and Finishing (NDF) is a purpose designed fabric dyeing project with the capacity of 4. Ordered through the local Pakistan representative Al Ameen. ASTM or AATCC international standards as specified. “Over the next 10 years I am certain that there will be even more automation and technology advances. the energy position in Pakistan is very critical and also getting expensive day by day. The Towers are each housed within a 1. 31 . jackets. dedicated by fashion. two per stenter. “Probably the biggest being the advances in technology and the reduction in manpower. has been instrumental in managing the new facility project in Bharuch from concept to fruition. The company is also able to meet ISO. 740 looms. large quantities of water were also becoming scarce for dyeing operations. According to Nishat. The Normal Room Temperature is 35º. with the capacity for dyeing with Vat. Pakistan’s vertically integrated fabric producer.2 million m/ month and an annual turnover of over US$120 million. The exhaust air from the stenters is 160º . wrinkle-free properties. each with five chambers and a working width of 180cm. U. dyed shirting and work wear.With the heat recovery system capitalising on the high temperatures of the exhaust air. it was decided to purchase the Energy Towers for running alongside the three existing stenters. Sulphur and Pigment dyestuffs maintain the highest quality standards. later diversifying in various activities including rayon. The stenters are used basically for finishing. ensuring considerable energy savings.7m x 2. fabrics with minimum tension. It is ideal for continuous use on a hotflue. Garg. Joining Century 41 years ago as a Management Trainee. Two 10 chamber Montex stenters were also installed in 2000. The fabric is mostly used for bottom wear. Both stenters feature a padder for softeners or other finishing treatments as specified. Amongst the world’s best U. NDF installed two Thermosol units in 2000. It enjoys good relationships with all major retailers of the world.C. dyeing and finishing.” 30 | world of textiles issue twelve To combat ever increasing energy costs. drills. the company is very pleased with the performance of the units.Their extraordinary R&D work and highly trained marketing and technical personnel are key to sustaining long term business relationships. Thermex featuring the MxL process. The company is also just starting to produce lycra products. Century Textiles and Industries Ltd is a BK Birla Group of Companies and was first incorporated in 1897 as a textile mill. at a time when labour costs were increasing together with water and power rates. Nishat Mills 60º. Three lines of Thermosol continuous dyeing machines. The advantage achieved by the customized design of its machines is the result of an extensive research work with the help of world renowned machine manufacturers.000m/day.185ºC. Garg has witnessed tremendous changes during this period. each with a working width 200cm. A 10-chamber Montex stenter is used for finishing the narrow widths and an 8-chamber Montex for the wide widths. The moist cross linking (MxL) process is eminently suited for shirt and bed sheet fabrics offering noniron. a dyehouse manager is worried that his machine may overheat as the temperature in India climbs. and Jens is responsible for quality assurance. Services range from checking a range of settings and troubleshooting sensors and actuators to solving drive problems 32 | world of textiles issue twelve The joint venture employs 650 workers and is headed by a professional management team of German and Chinese managers until recently it has manufactured specifically for the Chinese market. In a huge city like Shenzhen there are also fast food chains such as McDonald’s. “There are days when the telephone never stops ringing.” says Mandarin-speaking Jens. “We receive a wide range of technical queries and initially try to help over the phone. “This is happening not only in cities like Shenzhen. but can carry out the checks and measures on handheld devices such as iPads or mobiles. relying on proven Monforts technology.” As lunch time approaches in New Delhi.” It’s past two in the afternoon in Shanghai and this customer needs a range of settings to be virtually checked. a move to China eight years ago has resulted in great happiness both at home and at work. good morning. China is investing enormously in its infrastructure everywhere. People are used to doing as they are told and bosses deciding on the strategy. but can’t say they were to my taste. Monfongs is also now building high quality Montex 6500 machines. “but Germany also has two other big advantages for Chinese engineers doing their training in the country – good cars and good beer!” Monfongs has built more than 1200 stenters over the past ten years and developed a new version at the plant which was introduced worldwide two years ago. The department in Germany is available for customers from seven in the morning to seven in the evening. and then he fell in love at first sight with Min Zhou. the Monforts Chinese joint venture partner.” he says. explains Michael Sieberichs. This means that customers can order a machine with standard componentry featuring state-of-the-art German engineering. Wide width stenters.” says Michael. “but I wouldn’t change jobs again. another call comes through. of course. Africa and Central and South America and my colleague Christoph Rütten deals with enquiries from North America.. That is the way things have been done in China for generations.An energy electronics technician.05am European Central Time “Hello Christoph.” What has most surprised Jens during his eight years in China. 08. is the pace of structural change. We meticulously plan for our field service around the world and of course support the teams from here. however.00am European Central Time “Bom dia Michael. and an even greater number of Happy in Shenzhen – but hold the snake! For Jens Paul.10am European Central Time “Good afternoon Wolfgang. having previously worked in the Monforts workshop. As a result mill managers no longer need to be in front of their machines.” The demands of his role have certainly become a little easier with the introduction by Monforts of improved remote visualisation for the company’s machines. the happily married couple have a young son and live in Shenzhen. Asia and Australia. He’s guided through the procedures to prevent a breakdown. “I’ve tried turtle and snake. and as a result it is sometimes difficult to encourage people to do things on their own initiative.. including sliding doors and integrated heat recovery.. he has been with the department for approaching two years.15am European Central Time “Merhaba. stops the phone from ringing for Michael Sieberichs and his colleagues in Mönchengladbach for long. with a better screen view and much easier operation.. coating ranges and special versions continue to be built exclusively in Austria. Generally. These machines are built to the same guaranteed high standards as the European-built models and offer the same key features. Today. The Montex 6500 stenter can also be ordered through the Austrian Montex manufacturing facility if preferred. The team of highly-trained specialists provides a vital lifeline to operators and it’s a service that’s appreciated by many customers. We’ve been running the morning shift for a couple of hours now and I need him to just look at something for me. a great deal of meat and steamed vegetables are eaten – and meat is available in any number of variations. however.Monfongs | China Teleservice Linked to the world 08. “I’m responsible for Europe.” says Jens. and I would never have thought modernisation would start to creep in in such places. the textile machine engineer found employment with Monfongs. Jens Paul Michael Sieberichs emails are responded to. where Monfongs also has its headquarters.25am European Central Time “Bom dia!” There are 40 land timezones across the world and in an average day. 08. with a satellite office in Indonesia handling enquiries throughout Germany’s night. “The food in China is very different to that in Europe.. Building on this success and the skill of its German-trained engineers. 08. could I speak to Michael please? It’s Ahmet in Ankara. he notes.” 33 .” At the same time. “At work there is a strictly hierarchical way of thinking and doing things that often takes some getting used to for Europeans. Michael Sierberichs and his team at the Monforts Teleservice Department cross all of them many times – and in any number of languages and their combinations. Alarms also now alert them to the condition of their machines.” It’s three in the morning in São Paolo and the night shift foreman of a leading Brazilian textile manufacturer phones the Monforts Teleservice Department to request a service check for one of his stenters.” and evaluating trend diagrams.” he says. Another cultural difference between Europe and China.. Our teleservice is the second step and generally enables problems to be solved quickly. Firstly. although I prefer the lighter Chinese food. If a problem cannot be solved. None of this. In addition. but also in the more rural provinces too. of course. software updates for machine control. 08.” Over 50 calls are received every day. but it is. “Made in Germany has a global reputation for excellence in machine engineering. many young Chinese engineers opt to do their training in Germany and this is reflected in the successful development of Monfongs. As if on cue. “China and Germany are worlds apart in some ways. where the differences aren’t so large. visualisation and drive systems can be updated directly from the office in Mönchengladbach and programme errors eliminated. Monforts sends out a fitter because here is where all the strings come together for the fitters. but manufactured in China on high-tech machine tools at an attractive and competitive price.. We recently visited the in-laws who live quite traditionally in the country. is food. who is now his wife. of course. “I got around on crutches for ten weeks without a plaster cast and now I can get around on me bike. Asia Citra. underwent a tremendous change in landscape. the Massifs are virtually 34 | world of textiles issue twelve 35 . wide-width textiles mill has the country’s first Monforts 3. producing wide-width. after 20 years.” The machines made by the employees at Montex are manufactured in easily transportable components. “We then considered Chinese equipment – which although less expensive than European manufacture.” Hendra accepts that there is a tough job ahead but with such a highly populated market. are manufactured at Montex. the company has diversified into dyeing and finishing to produce 1. Free climbing without the active use of hooks or other aids is real mountaineering. “and we are working non-stop and at full capacity. As a trained machine fitter. with a 3.Austria | Montex Wide-width textiles No Massifs in Shenzhen All wide width and special purpose Monforts stenters including the latest Montex 8000 to be introduced at ITMA 2011. “So with new equipment incorporating the latest technology. in addition to sanforising and continuous dyeing ranges.” Taking the lead in Indonesia Indonesia’s Asia Citra Pratama’s new purpose-built. “Today” confirmed Hendra. we should quickly become one of the best. the brothers recognised the potential in Indonesia for producing wide-width bed linen fabrics. quality home textiles. In this role he flies to Shenzhen every couple of months and when in China is generally busy around the clock. But. on my doorstep. the group’s subsidiary located in St. From these small beginnings. once vital muscles have been rebuilt. “At home. filtering water before passing it through to the industrial complex’s own recycling operation to ensure totally clean water. focusing on bed linen. business is booming – to such an extent that for Karl ‘Charly’ Krammer there has been little time to pursue his love of outdoor sports. he adds.5 million m² a month for ladies fashion wear. perfecting the quality and then actively seek international markets – wherever it is. but after becoming a special economic zone in 1979. in the Lavanttal Valley in the central southern Austrian Alps. was originally a hilly area. we questioned if it would meet environmental issues and perhaps lacked the latest energy saving technology and robust-build. it was a real bonus. some 80km north of Bandung and 55km south of Jakarta. Stefan. and such is his commitment to the sport that even a recent ski-ing accident in which he broke his shin and tore his cruciate ligament won’t stop him from returning to it. so where can I go climbing?” Charly asks. and not in Shenzhen. with the bulk of the machines going to the Far East. For the time being. Charly began his apprenticeship at Monforts in 1978 and moved into field service in 1987. We will initially concentrate on the domestic market. Pakistan and Turkey.“ he reports.” Start of production Back in 1990. we chose another Montex with confidence and. the original company provided printing for narrow width cotton linen and shirts for the domestic market. “but climbing is still out of the question. He is now coordination manager of production and also responsible for providing technical support to the Monforts joint venture in China. the company installed its first Montex stenter in Bandung. but there are no mountains there. Almost one hundred per cent of our production is exported. Complying with the latest environmental ‘green’ regulations.” “When we looked at equipment for the new mill. “It is. bordering Hong Kong to the south. to lead the way. the new factory has its own water recycling facility.” “In the end we opted principally for European equipment for the partnership and support back-up. at least. demand will be high and increase. And right now.” The company had originally considered purchasing second hand equipment as a reduced investment. In setting up the new facility. And the injury fortunately hasn’t stopped him performing his vital duties for Montex.2 m width. The company’s origins date back to 1986 when the brother’s parents Mr and Mde Aries Tedjawisastra took over an established company dating back to the 1970’s. Karl ‘Charly’ Krammer Wide width demand Hendra Tedjawisastra Surrounded by residential and commercial properties meant no additional land was available for expansion. as an inner city textile mill. despite usually requiring weeks of rest. the next generation of Asia Citra Pratama – brothers Hendra and Henky Tedjawisastra – are taking the Indonesian textiles company into a new direction. The once hilly fishing village is now replaced by mostly flat ground with very few area of elevation. But even when he does have free time.” he says. The company has therefore located to a 2ha green field site in Karawang. Based in Bandung. located in the Pearl River Delta. there’s another problem.2 m wide Montex Stenter Although an established family– owned business. he explains. “We are snowed under with orders at the moment. Shenzhen. and shipped via Bremen or Hamburg to be assembled at the plant of the customer. found the same expansion problems experienced by other fabric producers – extra space and compliance with environmental issues. still providing fantastic service. Advert .