BRIJ™ SERIESDS-226R-3 July 6, 2009 BRIJ™ SERIES Mild, nonionic surfactants The BRIJ SERIES of surfactants are polyoxyethylene vegetable-based fatty ethers derived from lauryl, cetyl, stearyl and oleyl alcohols. These materials are naturally derived, mild, and virtually odorless nonionic surfactants, and as a series, offer a diverse set of emulsifying characteristics allowing them to confer unique bodying, spreading and stabilizing properties to emulsions. Since the BRIJ surfactants manifest synergistic behavior, they can achieve even greater effects when used together. The extraordinary synergism shown by BRIJ blends is particularly evident in the case of difficult-to-formulate emulsions, such as clear gel microemulsions and alkali-based hair straighteners. PRODUCT RANGE Croda offers a wide variety of vegetable-based fatty ethers. The products available in the BRIJ SERIES are listed below with their corresponding INCI name appearing in the second column: Product name BRIJ CS20 BRIJ C2 BRIJ C10 BRIJ C20 BRIJ IC20 BRIJ IC20-70 BRIJ L4 BRIJ L23 BRIJ L23-69 BRIJ O2 BRIJ O3 BRIJ O5 BRIJ O10 BRIJ O20 BRIJ S2 BRIJ S10 BRIJ S20 BRIJ S100 BRIJ S721 INCI Name Ceteareth-20 Ceteth-2 Ceteth-10 Ceteth-20 Isoceteth-20 Isoceteth-20 (and) Aqua Laureth-4 Laureth-23 Laureth-23 (and) Aqua Oleth-2 Oleth-3 Oleth-5 Oleth-10 Oleth-20 Steareth-2 Steareth-10 Steareth-20 Steareth-100 Steareth-21 Croda Inc 300-A Columbus Circle, Edison, NJ 08837 Tel 732-417-0800 Fax 732-417-0804 Website www.crodausa.com Sederma, Inc. Tel 732-692-1652 Fax 732-417-0804 Croda Inc West Coast Sales Office 9545 Santa Anita Ave, Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 Tel 909-9802510 Fax 909-476-7304 Croda Miami Inc 200 South Park Road, Suite 303, Hollywood, FL 33021 Tel 1-888-84CRODA Fax 954-989-8186 Sol Kaplan & Son PO Box 240234 Memphis TN 38124-0234 Tel 901-685-0323 Fax 901-763-3612 Croda Canada Ltd 221A Racco Parkway, Vaughan, Ontario L4J8X9 CANADA Tel 905-886-1383 Fax 905-886-4753 The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies. fiber finish and HI&I cleaning. . These products are widely used in personal care. solubilize oils and improve wetting. BRIJ surfactants can be used to form either oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.H 2 2 n where R represents the fatty alcohol moiety and n represents the number of moles of ethylene oxide As ethoxylates.O. While the presence of the ether linkage in their structure confers exceptional stability to the BRIJS. the BRIJ SERIES are useful for emulsifying fats and oils in highly acidic or alkaline media. As such. Depending on the HLB. the BRIJ surfactants are classified as ethers.BRIJ™ SERIES Functions • • • • • • • Emulsifiers Perfume Solubilizers Gelling Agents Wetting Agents Solubilizing Agents Superfatting Agents Spreading Agents Primary Applications • • • • • • • Microemulsion Gels Shaving Preparations Creams and Lotions Lipsticks Bath Oils Shampoos Antiperspirants & Astringent General Structure—Ethoxylates R .CH . The series contains both hydrophilic and lipophilic products.O) . the absence of an ester linkage virtually eliminates any tendency for them to hydrolyze. adhesives and other industrial applications. crop protection. they acquire certain behavioral characteristics inherent to these compounds.(CH . BRIJ surfactants are stable to acids and alkalis beyond the pH range that ester type emulsifiers can withstand. paints and coatings. Hence. Their performance as solubilizers is considered outstanding. cationic and ester surfactants. like BRIJ O10 or BRIJ S10. Thus. BRIJ O3 contains 3 moles of EO). The number suffix in the name indicates the level of ethoxylation (i. giving them the versatility to be used in a variety of oil-in-water systems. are soluble in water and insoluble in mineral oil and other non-polar solvents. they are lipophilic and have emollient. Like all ethoxylates.. like BRIJ O3 or BRIJ S2 are soluble in mineral oil and other non-polar oils. as well as with most anionic. these materials display solubility according to their degree of ethoxylation. with water solubility increasing with increasing levels of ethoxylation.e. as well as emulsifying. the higher ethoxylates.BRIJ™ SERIES Physical Properties The BRIJ surfactants are produced by reacting ethylene oxide (EO) with a fatty moiety — for example. properties. As such. and are fully biodegradable. The lower ethoxylates. The BRIJ surfactants are stable over a wide pH range. They are compatible with other nonionic surfactants. for the BRIJ S Range. for the BRIJ O Range. and stearyl alcohol. 3 . oleyl alcohol. but are insoluble in water. 7 15.7 15.7 9.3 4.6 8.9 12.9 6.9 4.4 15.7 5.4 15.9 16.5 Appearance1 Solid White waxy solid White waxy solid White waxy solid Solid Liquid Colorless liquid White waxy solid Colorless Liquid or gel Pale yellow liquid Off white hazy liquid Off white hazy liquid Pale yellow liquid Pale yellow liquid White waxy solid White waxy solid White waxy solid White to pale yellow waxy solid White waxy solid or White powder 1) Color and form at 25°C determined visually. An approximation of color intensity is indicated by comparison with Gardner standards as follows: Colorless-light yellow Yellow Amber < 1-2 Gardner units 2-7 Gardner units 7-10 Gardner units 4 .7 16.3 12.9 15.8 15.3 18.8 12.BRIJ™ SERIES TYPICAL ANALYSES Product BRIJ CS20 BRIJ C2 BRIJ C10 BRIJ C20 BRIJ IC20 BRIJ IC20-70 BRIJ L4 BRIJ L23 BRIJ L23-69 BRIJ O2 BRIJ O3 BRIJ O5 BRIJ O10 BRIJ O20 BRIJ S2 BRIJ S10 BRIJ S20 BRIJ S100 BRIJ S721 HLB 15. BRIJ™ SERIES No Lye Hair Relaxer BW-12-1 This two-part guanidine carbonate hair relaxer uses guanidine hydroxide as the active ingredient. Combine ingredients of Part B with mixing and heat to 70-75ºC. for this reason.50 15. Combine ingredients of Part C. Guanidine carbonate systems tend to cause less stinging and scalp irritation and.50 5. have become the dominant relaxer technology in formulations geared to the retail market. Guanidine hydroxide is produced by reacting guanidine carbonate in the activator phase with calcium hydroxide in the cream phase. While it is very effective. Next Page) 5 . Ingredients PART A COSMOWAX™ P (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) CRODACOL™ C-95 (Cetyl Alcohol NF) BRIJ™ S2 (Steareth-2) Mineral Oil. 70ssu Petrolatum BRIJ S10 (Steareth-10) PART B Propylene Glycol Deionized Water PART C Calcium Hydroxide Deionized Water % 10. Mix well and add to Part A/B.00 10.00 0. Add Part B to Part A with mixing and cool to 60ºC. it produces a cream that is milder than conventional lye-type relaxers.00 PROCEDURE Combine ingredients of Part A with mixing and heat to 70-75ºC.50 2. Cool to room temperature and mill. even on tightly curled hair. (Activator.00 47.00 1.50 3.00 5. Cool to desired fill temperature. 8/30/94 6 . This is sufficient to cover a whole head.T.BRIJ™ SERIES Activator Ingredients PART A Deionized Water Keltrol F1 PART B Guanidine Carbonate2 % 74. 1) 2) Kelco Division of Merck J. Note: The relaxer is activated by adding approximately 57 gms of activator to 210 gms of cream.20 25. Baker Chemical Co. Cool to 45°C and add Part B with mixing.80 0.00 PROCEDURE Combine ingredients of Part A and heat to 70-75°C. 0 7. 70ssu % 54.BRIJ™ SERIES Clear Gel CG-8R This clear gel is a classic formula based on the BRIJ™ and CRODAFOS™ Series.0 12. Add Part A to Part B with mixing and cool to desired fill temperature above the set point.0 4.) Ingredients PART A Deionized Water Propylene Glycol PART B CRODAFOS O3D (DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate) CRODAFOS O10D (DEA Oleth-10 Phosphate) BRIJ O5 (Oleth-5) BRIJ O3 (Oleth-3) Mineral Oil. the formulation achieves the quality of a 'ringing gel' — a phenomenon associated with clear microemulsions and an effect that occurs when their concentration of surfactant.0 17. water and oil is so balanced that the system is able to form a rigid micelle structure. batch sizes of 400 grams minimum are recommended since they allow for more production time before the gel reaches its set point.0 PROCEDURE Combine ingredients of Part A with mixing and heat to 90-95°C.0 4.0 2. (For laboratory formulations. Using these surfactants as co-emulsifiers. Emulsifier:Oil ratio: 1:1 12/19/91 7 . Set point: 85°C. Combine ingredients of Part B with mixing and heat to 90-95°C. 35 TS2226 8 . % 7.00 17. cover in plastic (to minimize moisture loss) and heat to 95-98ºC. mix well. Lower ethoxylates like the BRIJ™ and CRODAFOS™ Series used here are the emulsifiers of choice for clear gel formulations. Allow emulsion to cool to 60ºC.65 12. yet is able to produce a microemulsion gel which exhibits clarity and possesses a manageable set point (80°C). Once both parts have been combined.00 0.00 4. Place Part B into a separate vessel. RT) PROCEDURE Place Part A in main vessel and heat to 95-98ºC. Add Part B to Part A with rapid mixing. since less ethoxylated materials have been shown to cause less irritation. using Potassium Hydroxide in place of the DEA. Ingredients PART A BRIJ O3 (Oleth-3) BRIJ O5 (Oleth-5) CRODAFOS O3A (Oleth-3 Phosphate) CRODAFOS O10A (Oleth-10 Phosphate) Mineral Oil PART B Deionized Water Propylene Glycol Potassium Hydroxide Pellets pH: 3. Viscosity: 107.200 cps ± 10% (RTV spindle #TC.00 4.BRIJ™ SERIES Clear Gel Without DEA CG-25-3 This formula contains no diethanolamine.00 53. 10rpm. Pour into packaging. switch to a side sweep blade and cover vessel tightly with aluminum foil. The powerful emulsifying properties and outstanding synergistic action of these esters yield an extremely efficient system in which a 1:1 ratio of emulsifier:oil concentration is achieved—a balance that minimizes irritation potential and optimizes gel formation. careful to avoid aeration and maintaining temperature.00 2.36.