BODY CAREMerupakan sediaan kosmetika yang ditujukan untuk perawatan badan. Biasanya yang dimasukkan dalam kategori ini antara lain adalah - Pembersih badan (body wash, soap, shower gel, lulur, body scrub, dll - Pelembab bdan (body lotion, body cream, body gel, dll) - Pewangi (body cologne, body spray, dll ) - Masker - Bedak - Deodorant/antiperspirant - dll Berdasarkan type sediaannya, dibagi atas - Emulsi (body lotion, body cream) - Gel (body gel, cologne gel) - Larutan (body cologne, body wash) - Powder (body talk, antibody odour, masker - Emulsi-suspensi (Lulur kocok) - Aerosol (body spray) BODY LOTION Merupakan sediaan kosmetik berbentuk emulsi yang ditujukan untuk perawatan kulit tubuh (lengan dan kaki). Biasanya body lotion lebih ditujukan untuk menjaga kelembaban kulit dan mencegah dari sengatan matahari (SPF). Selain itu body lotion juga harus mempunyai nilai estetika misalnya memberikan aroma yang menyenangkan. Seiring dengan kebutuhan pasar maka sekarang body lotion juga ditujukan untuk whitening BODY LOTION Seperti halnya pelembab pada wajah. Biasanya diaplikasikan pada tangan dan kaki. sediaan masih mengalir jika dituangkan Syarat-syarat umum -Mempunyai daya melembabkan yang bagus -Meninggalkan kesan lembut dikulit -Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan Syarat-syarat estetika -Tidak memberikan kesan lengket -Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik -Spreading bagus saat diaplikasi Syarat formulasi -Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual -Sebaiknya mempunyai pH sekitar 4-7 . Rata-rata body lotion mempunyai viskositas yang tidak begitu tinggi. body lotion merupakan pelembab pada badan. Komposisi BODY LOTION Utama: Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier) Tambahan: Viscosity modifier (zat pengatur kekentalan) Pengawet Pewarna Perfume Zat aktif . minyak kedelai. dll).BODY LOTION Biasanya untuk body lotion mempunyai tipe emulsi O/W jadi: 1. 3. Emulsifier harus dipilih yang cocok dengan tujuan penggunaan body lotion. Sama seperti surfactant maka emulsifier juga dibagi atas beberapa tipe . Phase luar adalah air (jumlah terbanyak). Biasanya kedalam phase air ini ditambahkan pengental seperti turunan selulosa (carbopol. Untuk memberikan sensasi yang enak pada saat diaplikasi biasanya ditambahakan silikon seperti dimetichone atau cyclometicone. Jika menggunakan pengawet yang larut dalam air maka pengawet ini ditambahkan ke phase air 2. milsalnya jika body lotion mengandung tingkat keasaman yang ditinggi maka pilihnya emulsifier yang tahan asam. Phase dalam adalah minyak (biasanya menggunakan minyak nabati seperti minyak zaitun. dll) dan humectant seperti gliserin atau propilen glikol. TIPE EMULSIFIER Surfactant chemical class Typical generic example Anionic Carboxylic acid Carboxylic acid ester Sulfate acid ester Amino acid amides Soaps Lactylate. Sulfated monoglyceride Sarcosinate. PEG alkyl carboxylate Alkyl sulfate. Acylated peptides Cationic Amines Quaternaries PEG alkyl amine Tetraalkyl ammonium salts Amphoteric Phospate Amine derivative Phospolipid N-alkyl amino acids Nonionic Alcohol Ether Ester Polymers Fatty alcohol Alkoxylated fatty alcohol. PEG-derivative. PEG-phenol ethers Acyl sorbitant. PEG-silicone derivative . Acyl glyceride PEG block polymers. Emulsifier Relation between HLB range and Surfactant applications HLB Range Use 0-3 Anti foaming 4-6 W/O emulsifying agent 7-9 Wetting agent 8-18 O/W emulsifying agent 13-15 Detergent 10-18 Solubilizing agent . Sensorial performances . Dimethicone 6 5.7 3.5 0 10 Heaviness Low MW hydr. Polydecene 2 Octyl dodecanol 4 3.7 Medium-high MW hydr. Polydecene mineral oil 5 4.5 Medium MW hydr.9 Very high MW hydr. Polydecene Isohexadecane . Polydecene IPM 3 2. polydecene 4 3.5 3.castor oil 9 sweet almond oil 5 4.6 medium MW nexbase2006FG hydr.1 olive oil medium MW panalaneL14E hydr. polydecene arlamol HD isohexadecane .4 High MW nexbase2008FG hydr. polydecene 2 1. polydecene nexbase2004FGMineral oil vaseline oil Low MW nexbase2002CG 1 0 10 greasy feel hydr. 2 Decyl oleate 18.9 Squalene 46.3 Dioctyladipate 24.POLARITY BEBERAPA OIL Common oil (CTFA name) Polarity index Non Polar Isoparafin (C12-C14 grade) Common oil (CTFA name) Polarity index Polar 53 Isopropyl stearate 21.8 Cyclomethicone 20.5 Polar Cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin Oil) 28.3 Isohexadecane 43.7 Wheat germ oil 8.6 Sunflower seed oil 19.1 Calendula oil 11.6 Almond oil 20.7 Octyl Palmitate 23.2 Castor oil 13.3 Dimetichone 26.9 Isopropyl myristate 24.8 Isopropyl isostearate 21.2 Mineral Oil 43.8 Avocado Oil 18.7 Jojoba oil 20.1 Hexamethyl disiloxane 22.7 Octyl dodecanol 24.3 .3 Isopropyl palmitate 25.6 Peanut oil 20.5 Olive oil 16.2 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 21. vegatable extract. plant extract. dll qs to 100 qs Active Vitamine. PG Carbopol 2-5 0. UV-Filter.3 menjaga kelembaban Vitamine. dll Dimethicone Vitamin E atau BHT Oil Base Viscosity modifier Viscosity modifier .5-1 0-3 PEG-100 sterate and glycerol stearate 2-5 Emulsifier qs 1-5 qs qs Active anti lengket.CONTOH FORMULA BODY LOTION Ingredients OIL PHASE Polar/Non-polar type Fatty alcohol Fatty acids Emulsifier Oil soluble active Texture modifier Antioxidant Perfume WATER PHASE Humectant Viscosity stabiliser Water soluble active Water Preservative Chemical name % Functions Mineral oil. olive oil Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid total 10% 0.1-0. silky feel Gliserin. Isopropyl Merystate. Conventional soap didapatkan dari reaksi penyabunan antara NaOH atau KOH dengan fatty alcohol/fatty acid atau vegatable oil seperti coconut. Sabun yang dihasilkan dengan cara ini mempunyai keuntungan yakni derajat busanya yang banyak tapi mempunyai tingkat iritasi yang cukup tinggi.SOAP Merupakan sediaan kosmetika yang digunakan untuk membersihkan badan dari pengotor.Soap based surfactan Hal dasar yang membedakan kedua sabun diatas adalah sumber sabunnya. Sabunnya mempunyai busa yang kurang banyak dibandingkan soap base tapi tingkat iritasinya lebih rendah . palm. Soap based surfactant adalah sabun yang dibuat berdasarkan penggunaan surfactant sebagai base sabunnya. castor.Conventional Soap (soap) 2. olive. Secara umum soap dibagi atas 1.dll. Berbusa banyak -Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik -Enak saat digunakan Syarat formulasi -Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual -Sebaiknya mempunyai pH 7 atau sedikit basa . body wash atau sabun cair Syarat-syarat umum -Mempunyai daya bersih yang bagus -Tidak menyebabkan kulit jadi kering -Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan Syarat-syarat estetika .Soap based surfactant Kebanyakan berbentuk cairan atau larutan kental bening atau translucence. Biasanya dikenal sebagai body shower. Viscosity modifier Ingredients tambahan 1.Surfactant 2.dll Ingredients active 1.Pewarna 2.dll .Pengawet 4.Pewangi 3. Deodorant 3. Zat yang bersifat sebagai antiseptik 2.Soap based surfactant Umunya sediaannya berbentuk larutan seperti halnya shampo Ingredients utama 1. Cationic. Amphoteric. Nonionic 2. . Hydrophobic groups containg 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical hydrophilic groups are Anionic. Compunds having one or more hydrophobic and hydrophilic groups with a general molecular weight several hundreds. Oligomers having a molecular weight of thousands to tens of thousands which are usually prepared by polymerization of several to hundreds of monomer units.Surfactant Chemistry of surfactants From the molecular structural point of view. they are divided into 2 groups 1. • Carboxylate –COONa+ • Sulfate -OSO3-Na+ • Phosphonate -PO32-2Na+ • Sulfonate -SO3-Na+ Taurate Isethionate Alkylaryl Sulfonate Olefin Sulfonate Sulfosuccinate • Acylated Amino Acids and Peptides Sarcosinate . As a group.Surfactant Anionic All members or this class of surfactant carry negative charge on the hydrophilic group. anionics are not compatible with cationic amphiphiles. This group of surfactants includes a variety of amines since neutralization of the amino group with an acid yield a positively charge ampholyte •Amine (Alkylamine) •Quaternary ammonium compund •Alkoxylated amines •Alkylimidazolines •Pyridinium salt •Sulfonium salt -CNH3+ -N+(CH3)3 -S+(CH3)2Cl- .Surfactant Cationic Hydrophilic head carries a possitive charge. Surfactant Amphoteric In this group there are two charges possitive and negative in a molecule surfactant. •Amino acid -NHC2H4COOH •Betaine -N(CH3)2C2H4SO3 •Aminosulfate -NHC2H4OSO3 •Sulfobetaine -N(CH3)2C2H4SO3 . Surfactant Nonionic Amphiphiles that possess no charges at pH normally encoutered in cosmetics. primarily hydroxyl or ether. •Alcohols •Alkanolamides •Amine Oxide •Esters Glycerides Ethoxylated Glycerides Polygluceryl esters Carbohydrate esters Ethoxylated carboxylyx acids Phosphoric acid triester . Their water solubility depends on the presence of polar head groups. Surfactant Nonionic Ethers Ethoxylated alcohol Ethoxylated (Propoxylated) polysiloxanes Ethoxylated polypropylene oxide ether Alkyl glycoside . Viscosity modifier Digunakan untuk memberikan kekentalan pada sediaan sabun cair -Golongan Cellulose (Metolose. Carbopol 2020) digunakan sekitar 0. Comparland KDT) digunakan sekitar 1-3 % .2 – 3% .2 – 1% .Golongan surfactant modified (Cocomide DEA.2 – 1% -Golongan Polimer (Acrylate copolimer.Garam (NaCl) digunakan sekitar 0.2. HPMC.) digunakan sekitar 0. Body wash No Ingredient name 1 Water 2 Methylcellulose Trade name Water function 1 Thickener 3 Sodium laureth Sulphate (70%) Texapon N70 25 4 Coco betaine 5 Main Surfactant Co surfactant, foam booster 5 6 7 8 9 Cocamide DEA NaCl Preservative Coloring agent pf Metochel % of usage ad 100 Base Dehyton HB Comparland KDT NaCl 4 1 qs qs qs Co surfactant, viscosity modifier Viscosity modifier BODY COLOGNE Merupakan sediaan yang ditujukan untuk memberikan kesegaran dan keharuman pada tubuh/badan. Body cologne umumnya berbentuk cairan atau larutan jernih dan disemprotkan (body spray) atau dipercikkan (body splash) ketubuh. Selain mengandung perfum sebagai ingredient utama, body cologne kadang-kadang mengandung bahan aktif yang bersifat sebagai antiperspirant atau deodorant, pelembab dll. BODY COLOGNE Syarat umum -Larutan jernih -Tidak menyebabkan iritasi pada kulit -Memberikan aroma yang enak Syarat estetika -Tidak memberikan kesan lengket - Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik - Memberikan kesan segar pada kulit Syarat formulasi - Stabil (tidak menjadi keruh selama penyimpanan dan penjualan) - Sebaiknya mempunyai pH 4-7 jika perlu Solubiliser Active Pengawet (jika diperlukan) Estetika warna. parfum . 7. 2. 6. Pelarut (biasa air atau dicampur dengan alkohol) Humectan pH adjuster (asam atau basa). 5. 4. 3. Bisa juga menambahkan solubiliser untuk meningkatkan kelarutan KOMPOSISI 1.BODY COLOGNE TINJAUAN FORMULASI Karena body cologne merupakan larutan. maka formulasinya sangat sederhana dimana semua bahan yang dimasukkan kedalam pelarut harus terlarut sempurna. 2 50 Pelarut Alkohol Fragrance Pf 5 Pewarna Zat Warna qs .CONTOH FORMULASI BODY COLOGNE Part A B Komposisi Ingredient % Pelarut Aquadem ad 100 Humectant PG 2 Aktive Ekstrak anggur 1 Solubiliser Tween 20 0. dll). dll) dan sintetis (PE. batu apung. Daya exfoliating scrub ditentukan oleh ukuran scrub. jagung. Secara umum ada 2 fungsi yang harus dimiliki oleh body scrub 1.BODY SCRUB Merupakan sediaan berbentuk cream kental yang umumnya dihasilkan dari proses saponifikasi dari fatty acid (biasanya asam stearat) dengan basa (TEA. Daya exfoliating yang didapatkan dari scrub yang digunakan. KOH) ditambah dengan butiranbutiran halus yang berfungsi sebagai scrub. silica. NaOH. Umumnya ada 2 jenis scrub yakni alami (biji apricot. Semakin kecil ukuran scrub maka semakin kurang terasa pada penggunaannya tapi semakin tinggi daya exfoliatingnya . Daya bersih yang didapatkan dari base lulur sendiri atau dengan tambahan co-surfactant untuk meningkatkan daya bersih 2. performance menarik Syarat formulasi .Stabil (tidak pecah selama penyimpanan) .Pick up bagus .Tidak kasar .Sebaiknya mempunyai pH < 7 .Daya exfoliating yang bagus .Daya bersih yang bagus .Tidak membuat kulit kering Syarat estetika .BODY SCRUB Syarat umum .Aroma. warna.Spreading bagus . Komposisi BODY SCRUB Utama: Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier) atau saponifikasi system Bead (Scrub) Tambahan: Viscosity modifier (zat pengatur kekentalan) Pengawet Pewarna Perfume Zat aktif . 5-1 5-15 2-5 Functions Oil Base Viscosity modifier Saponifikasi Base Emulsifier(if needed) menjaga kelembaban 2-5 0. Isopropyl Merystate. olive oil Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid PEG-100 sterate and glycerol stearate Gliserin. PG Carbopol % <10% 0.Ingredients OIL PHASE Polar/Non-polar type Fatty alcohol Fatty acids Emulsifier WATER PHASE Humectant Viscosity stabiliser NaOH/KOH/TEA Water Preservative PE/Natural bead Chemical name Mineral oil.3 Sesuai fatty acid Saponifikasi base to 100 qs Qs (2-5% Scrubbing agent .1-0. which itself is odourless.DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT Deodorants are substances applied to the body mainly to reduce body odor which is caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration. sebum and dead skin cells. Gram-positive bacteria Micrococcus luteus Corynebacterium aquaticum Corynebacterium flavescens Corynebacterium callunae Corynebacterium nephredi . From the components of the perspiration. is broken down by microorganisms. Gram-positive organisms in particular form substances which smell unpleasant. Body odour develops when perspiration. as defined by the Department of Health and Human Services in the final antiperspirant monograph published in 2003. reads as follows: “A drug product applied topically that reduces the production of perspiration (sweat) at that site” • There has always been some confusion in the industry that consumers do not always relate to the basic difference between antiperspirant and deodorant products.Antiperspirant • An antiperspirant. can also claim to be a deodorant. because a deodorant product only reduces the body odor and does not reduce perspiration it can only be labeled as a deodorant . because of their ability to reduce perspiration and thus diminish the medium that is a factor in the development of axillary odor. • However. • Antiperspirants. A quasi-drug is an article used only for certain purposes that are specifically designated by the MHW (Ministry of Health and Welfare) .Regulation antiperspirant • In the United States an antiperspirant is categorized as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug product and therefore subject to regulations by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). • In the European Common Market antiperspirants are considered to be cosmetic products and are therefore subject to the European Cosmetic Directive • Antiperspirant products in Japan are regulated and classified as quasi-drugs. . While sweat from these glands is initially odorless.Muara langsung kepermukaan kulit 2. is one chemical compound that gives sweat its smell.Cairannya encer .8 -Terdapat diaksila. kaki dan dahi) . Apokrin -Ukuran besar terletak didermis bawah -Cairan kental.DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT Body odor is primarily generated in the area under the arms where there is a high concentration of sweat glands. that provide a growth medium for bacteria living on the skin. mengandung air. it contains natural oils. elektrolit. asam laktat.Terdpat diseluruh tubuh (telapak tangan. putting susu. Kelenjer keringat 1. stress emosional . Isovaleric acid. glukosa -pH 4-6. saluran telinga luar -Didapat mikroorganisme----dekomposisi---bau -Sekresi dipengaruhi suhu panas. Ekrin . for example.Berukuran kecil terletak di dermis atas . converting them into compounds that have a characteristic sweaty odor. daerah genital. These bacteria interact with the lipids. called lipids. DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT . Kelenjer sebasea -Terdapat diseluruh tubuh kecuali telapak tangan dan kaki -Bermuara pada folikel rambut -Mengandung trigliserida. 2. kolesterol -Dipengaruhi hormon androgen -Usia pubertas ---berfungsi aktif There are two primary types of products used to control body odor. In addition to avoiding unpleasant wetness. these products also decrease odor because there is less sweat for the bacteria to act upon.DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT 3. wax ester. These products do not affect the amount of perspiration the body produces. . 1. inhibit the activity of sweat glands so less moisture is produced.Deodorants. reduce body odor by killing the odor-causing bacteria. Antiperspirants. asam lemak bebas. squalane. and aluminium-zirconium compounds. low cost and easy-to-make 3. more persistent antimicrobials such as triclosan. which is a common type of alum sold in crystal form Consumers want underarm products that meet their unique needs and lifestyles. Form: roll-on. 1. Feel: soft and dry to rich and nourishing. stick and wipes 2. most notably Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly and Aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine Deodorants can be formulated with other. non-staining. antiperspirant. A popular alternative to modern commercial deodorants is ammonium alum. gel. pump spray. moisturization. cream. aluminium chlorohydrate. or with metal chelant compounds that slow bacterial growth.DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT Antiperspirant Aluminium chloride. non-tacky and non-irritating . Function: deodorant. Deodorants may contain perfume fragrances intended to mask the odor of perspiration. aerosol. . Common examples include stearyl alcohol.DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT Formulation Stick The bulk of the formulation consists of waxy or fatty materials that are gelled to form a solid stick. but they quickly evaporate and are used because they leave the skin feeling smooth and dry. and glyceryl stearate. hydrogenated castor oil. In addition. These silicones are liquids at room temperature. These waxy materials are blended with lubricating oils and emollients such as cyclomethicone. cetyl alcohol. which is a volatile silicone compound. talc. starches. or other powders may be added to control stick consistency and to give the product a dry feel and a smooth payoff. . Emulsion Ingredient Phase A 1. Camelia HS 0. 3. Begin rapid.45 7. turbulent mixing of phase A. Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone 2 5. Fragrance 1 Procedure 1. 2. 6. combine phase C ingredients and warm gently while stirring until clear. combine phase B ingredients in order. Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol 0. In a separate vessel.3 9. In a separate vessel. . Triclosan 0. Cyclomethicone 8 3.2 12. Deionized Water 36. 8. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 1 Phase B 6. Use a dual blade configuration. After the addition is complete. add ingredients of phase A and mix. Water and Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate 30 Phase C 11. Cyclopentasiloxane & PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer 12 2. Add phase B / C to phase A very slowly using a seperatory funnel while maintaining turbulent mixing of phase A. 7. 5. Phenyl Trimethicone 2 4. Add phase C to phase B while mixing. Dipropylene Glycol 5 Phase D 13. In the main mixing vessel. Water and Tritucum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract and Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate 1 8.05 14. 4. Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract (and) Alcohol 1 10. mix for an additional 10 minutes. Reduce mixing speed and blend in phase D until uniform. Thickening Agents In Cosmetics . . it reaches terminal velocity.It is a property of certain gels which tend to flow on the account of stress applied on it.is the basis of the fallingsphere viscometer. A sphere descends through the liquid. which can be measured by the time it takes to pass two marks on the tube. • Thixiotropy . in which the fluid is stationary in a vertical glass tube.Principles involved in Thickening • Stokes's law . (Beeswax.(Salt) . Polyethylene Glycol) • Ionic Thickeners.(Carbomers. Xanthan Gum. Steryl alcohol ) • Naturally Derived thickeners. Cetyl alcohol. Gelatin ) •Synthetic Thickeners. Guar gum.Classification Of Thickening Agents • Lipid Thickeners.(Modified Cellulose. Carbomer’s • A family of Cross-Linked Acid Polymers • They are essential ingredients in Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals • They are Excellent Rheology Modifiers . Cross-Linked with polyalkenylether • They provide Thickening with a wide range of flow properties .Wt Polyacrylic acids.Carbopol Polymers • They are High Mol. Thickening Mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Conditioner Methyl Paraben 0.5 Solvent .5 Rheology Modifier Wheat Protein 0.5 Hair Settling Resin Aminomethyl Propanol 0.Hair Styling Gel Formulation Ingredient Weight % Function Deionized Water 61.30 Neutralizing Agent CARBOPOL 0.5 Preservative Ethanol 34.2 Diluent PVP 2. Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose • It is derived from cellulose • It is a non-ionic water soluble Polymer • It can – 1) Thicken 2) Bind 3) Emulsify 4) Form Films 5) Retains Water . C • Provides a smooth and silky feel to product • It has high ionic tolerance • It gives an extremely high clarity in gels • It offers good compatibility with surfactants • Wide range of viscosities can be achived with HEC .Salient Features Of H.E. • A purified cellulose is treated with NaOH to form a swollen alkali cellulose • This swollen alkali cellulose is treated with ethylene oxide to get a long chains of hydroxy ethyl cellulose . Physical Properties . Problems with HEC • CLOUDINESS tends to appear in clear solution in a short span of time • It gives a sticky feeling on the hand over a period of time. . • It consists of 5% of volitile matter which is not accepted worldwide. 2 Flavour 1-1.Toothpaste Formulation With HEC Ingredienta % weight Gelling agent (HEC) 1 Humectant(Glycerine) 10-30 Abrasive(CaCO3) 15-40 Sweetner(Saccharin) 0.5 Surface active agent 1-2 Presevative .colour & Water qs .1-0.