Colegiul National “ Mihai Eminescu “ Satu MareLUCRARE DE ATESTAT LIMBA ENGLEZĂ “No makeup can mask an ugly heart” (Kevyn Aucoin) A brief history of makeup Candidat: Odette Daraban Clasa a XII-a D Profesor Coordonator: Prof. Ramona Istrate Profil: Ştiinţele Naturii – Bilingv Engleză 2012 – 2013 Contents Argument .................................................................................................................................................... 2 1. Renaissance ............................................................................................................................................. 3 1.1 Elizabethan era .................................................................................................................................. 3 2. Victorian Era ........................................................................................................................................... 5 2.1 Edwardian Era ................................................................................................................................... 6 3. Makeup between 20’s - 50’s ................................................................................................................... 8 3.1 The Roaring Twenties makeup – The Flapper style .......................................................................... 8 3.2 1930’s makep .................................................................................................................................... 9 3.3 1940’s ................................................................................................................................................ 9 3.4 1950’s .............................................................................................................................................. 10 4. Makeup after 1950’s ............................................................................................................................. 12 1960’s Make Up .................................................................................................................................... 12 1970’s Natural Look .............................................................................................................................. 12 1980’s Make Up .................................................................................................................................... 12 1990s ..................................................................................................................................................... 13 Conclusions ............................................................................................................................................... 14 Appendix ................................................................................................................................................... 15 in my opinion the beauty of makeup lies in the experience and fun of applying it. while more mature ones try to combat aging. as I. Now let’s see where everything started 2 . women find ways to express themselves with makeup. I believe that makeup is an important part of every woman’s life. Nowadays being a makeup artist is definitely a fulfilling job. It is really a pleasure when I do somebody’s makeup to see the enthusiasm after they see themselves in the mirror totally changed. which is able to change my attitude and others as well. try to hide blemishes and imperfections. every women tried to look their best night and they and since we are human and perfection is impossible to achieve it was always a quest to find those products which would help us to reach perfection.Argument I chose this subject because. Younger women. I am truly fond of makeup. but mostly I am attracted to the process which leads to a really beautiful result. There is a certain feeling that I get when I am able to see the power exercised by certain products on the final result. Firstly. erase wrinkles and get a more youthful look. using creative ideas to enhance their features or even to hide some features that are not particularly appealing. Secondly. Even if throughout history it was not always regarded as something pleasant. women's wigs were often so elaborate that they had to be greased with lard to keep them in place. During this time. These pencils were used to outline fake eyebrows made of mouse fur. cosmetics were seen as a health threat because many thought they would block vapors and energy from circulating properly. Makeup pencils were made by mixing plant pigments with something called plaster of Paris. Since suntan lotion had not been invented and marks on the face were very common. a pale white complexion with red cheeks and lips. At that time. and lead oxide to create a porcelain-like face. 1 2 See Appendix Pic. the two were mixed together. Renaissance During the Renaissance. elder leaves. However. rain water. Other forms of skin cleansers were made from urine. These agents. cumulatively stored in the body with each use. applied it to their skin at night and removed it in the morning. donkey’s milk or red wine instead of soap-like ingredients we now use. the most popular choice was vermilion . Unfortunately.it often turned the woman’s skin gray.1 See Appendix Pic. women would paint their faces without removing the first layer. However. 1.and thus ended up getting tan. Only upper-class women in the Elizabethan area could afford to wear makeup. women strived for pale skin. people often used a blend of beeswax and cochineal or madder-based makeup as well. It was called fucus and was mainly used on the face and lips. women also began bleaching their hair with lye. It was a lead-based cosmetic item that also contained hydroxide and carbonate . Women wore egg whites over their faces to create a glazed look. it was in fact removing the skin and corroding the flesh! If someone found that method didn’t work. wigs were introduced. Another common base for makeup at the time was talc. This resulted in layers of makeup being on a woman’s face. the mercury was not treating acne. this substance caused hair to fall out so. boiled white egg or other white products. although for lipstick. Some types of rouge usually had a base of bear’s grease and some women even used belladonna drops to make their eyes appear more luminous even tough they knew it was poisonous. then molded into shape and left to dry in the sun. skin care was what most women worried about. 2 3 . perfect woman was expected to have light hair. Understandably.1 Elizabethan era In Elizabethan England. the lead did have sideeffects . and used a whitening agent composed of carbonate. However. the pure. Women would paint their faces very white1. In fact. they might have mixed birch sap. This makeup was called Venetian ceruse or sometimes just ceruse. Noblewomen were expected to be extremely pale to show that they were pampered and did not have to work. Elizabethan women also used red face paint instead of using blush to bring color to their cheeks2. Doctors at the time urged women to use other makeup that used tin ash or alum. Elizabethan women came up with many different ways to cover up their imperfections. were responsible for numerous physical problems and resulted in some cases in muscle paralysis. and sulfur.1. Eye shadow was made from ground mother of pearl. it was used to clear the skin of spots and wrinkles. hydroxide. This was because only lower-class women spent a lot of time outside working . much like today’s acne treatment is designed to do. which attracted lice and other pests! In the Elizabethan period. for their skin that helped hide wrinkles! Mercury was also a common ingredient in makeup. Whenever a new layer of ceruse was needed. Natural perfumes were made from ingredients such as flowers. rinds or barks.On a more pleasant note. 4 . roots. or any other natural aromatic substance. fruits. the art of creating new fragrances by blending ingredients was developed in France in the seventeenth century. Perfume-making was an incredibly laborious process that required enormous amounts of natural ingredients to produce small quantities of fragrance. something considered very vulgar. Eyebrows were also plucked. What changed though. 3 5 . Makeup Although. in line with the decrease of the use of cosmetics. feminine and fragile woman. which was safer but still achieved the same effect. But that’s not all. In fact. lipsticks with mercuric sulfide and on the cheeks. their use frowned upon and thought to be something that only women of dubious morals would wear. it was during this time that women started using Zinc Oxide. even in the Victorian era a pale complexion was a sign of nobility. Luckily. beet juice was applied. which at the time were considered to be pretty much the same thing. But that does not mean that ladies stopped using them altogether. Although some of the deadly mixtures of the past were still around. a white mineral powder. Here is how they achieved it. this trend did not last long! In addition. powders were used. modesty and sexual restraint. but very sparingly. Therefore. However. which would inevitably result in a tan. using parasols when outdoors to protect their skin from the sun rays and even by drinking vinegar. Some women would go to greater lengths to achieve a pale. at the time the ideal of beauty to achieve was that of a delicate. was the way to achieve this fair complexion. to prevent shine and give skin a glowy appearance. The Victorian Era was a time dominated by a strict moral code. All of these cosmetics were very pale-toned and applied carefully so they wouldn’t be too obvious3. with a pale complexion and long curls. almost sickly look: they would emphasize their dark circles! One way of doing this was by applying a red rouge on cheeks and lips. Complexion Like in past historical periods. 3 See Appendix Pic. cosmetics were frowned upon. religious values. Victorian Era The rise to the throne of Queen Victoria in 1837 marked the decline of the use of cosmetics. during this period cosmetics were considered to be immoral. as the veins underneath were showing. as previously mentioned. Eyeshadows were made with lead and antimony sulfide. A white and translucent complexion was so desired that some women would even paint some very fine blue lines on their skin to make it look more translucent. It meant that women were well-off and could afford not to spend hours working outdoors. kept on wearing strong makeup. well-off ladies used very little and in very natural tones. ladies would also preserve their skin pale by avoiding the sun and fresh hair.2. While actresses and prostitutes. makeup was still used but very sparingly and in softer tones to achieve a very natural look. but DIY skincare recipes made at home with ingredients found in the kitchen were still very popular.1 Edwardian Era The Edwardian Era in the UK is the period that corresponds to the brief reign of Queen Victoria’s son. to 1919 because this era of opulence and social changes. mass produced abundance and new revolutionary inventions. more women had access not only to mass produced cosmetics but also to magazines giving beauty advice and tips on how to take care of their skin. almond oil and scents. pale skin was still in. To get that healthy rosy flush on the cheeks. London. some historians extend this period. To whiten their faces. Burnt matchsticks were sometimes used to darken the eyelids but it was eyebrows that were the main focus for Edwardian women and eyebrow pencils were very popular. Even back then women felt the pressure to look younger than their real age and now. lilies or violets. while creams were made with waxes. The nails were then buffed shiny. become very popular. which were frowned upon in the Victorian era (but still very used. also known as Gilded Age or Belle Époque. hair and beauty. Tonics were mixtures of water and scents of roses. 5 6 . but blonde hair was out. Tinted powders and creams could be used on the nails as some sort of nail polish. 4 5 See Appendix Pic. Instead. encouraging women to try cosmetics before buying them. while the lips were stained with geranium and poppy petals. Creams were made using mostly natural ingredients. However. rouge was applied. when visiting such shops. from 1901 to 1910. Cosmetics. 2. The Edwardian beauty was a brunette with a pale complexion and rosy cheeks4. began to place cosmetics on open counters. Edwardian women used enamel. which would dilate pupils and brighten the eyes5. Rice powder or pearl powder could be applied on top of the skin as well. 4 See Appendix Pic. other shops followed suit. Imagine how shocking this must have seemed to the older generations of the time! But beauty counters like we know them today were born and very soon. King Edward VII. thanks to industrialization and mass publishing. eye makeup wasn’t that common. they would often use the back door! This started to change in 1909 when Gordon Selfridge in Oxford Street. Cosmetics could be easily bought at beauty salons but women were ashamed to admit they needed help to look pretty so. The Edwardian ideal of beauty and how to achieve it with makeup What was the ideal of beauty women aspired to in the Edwardian Era? Well. So were belladonna drops.Skincare Makeup may not have been very used. luxury and wealth was brought to an end by the First World War. a white face paint made with white lead (which we now know is toxic). only in a very natural manner). this could be done by a beautician with the help of an electric needle (electrolysis). At the time wrinkles were thought to be caused by a lack of oil in the body. 7 . To fight wrinkles.Skincare Just like women today. which were available in books of colored paper for that purpose. Concoctions and creams with Cocoa Butter. using olive oil in salads and drinking rich milk and cream were said to help too. you could use papier poudre. a diet rich in vegetables. Edwadian ladies wanted to keep the wrinkles at bay for as long as possible. fruits and plenty of water was recommended. scars. Coconut Oil. which would damage skin tissue. Lanolin. And if you just needed to remove excess shine from your face. Witch Hazel and Glycerin were also used to take care of skin. In addition. Petrolatum. superfluous hair and moles removed. Almond Oil. For those that wanted birthmarks. something that had previously been only worn by loose women. eye-liner. The eye lids were smeared with black eyeliner and usually topped with dark gray eyeshadow7. Use concealer or camouflage makeup to hide them by blending with your skin tone. still somewhat awkward in movement who had not yet entered womanhood. add a pop of turquoise or green too. Makeup between 20’s . Young women decided that they were not willing to waste away their young lives waiting idly for spinsterhood. deep brownish reds. nearly a whole generation of young men had died in the war. When the war was over.to some. political turbulence and increased transatlantic cultural exchange that followed the end of World War I. and lipstick became extremely popular. the boys had fought against both the enemy and death in far away lands. Rouge. During the war. the social. For the end of the twenties. 7 8 See Appendix Pic.3. The "Younger Generation" was breaking away from the old set of values. skin whitening continued to represent the ideal of beauty. they waited until a proper young man formally paid her interest with suitable intentions (i. as well as the export of American jazz culture to Europe. plum or orange lipsticks to wear for the early twenties. The term "flapper" first appeared in Great Britain after World War I. During the war. then draw away8. powder. wear colors like rose. It was there used to describe young girls. the survivors went home and the world tried to return to normalcy. The lipstick was applied as a "cupids bow" to the upper lip and extended at the lower lip. thin and arched usually drawn in pencil. Unfortunately. young women did not date. In the age of the Gibson Girl6. Of course Coco Chanel helped make the suntan popular and heralded the introduction of fake tan products helping both men and women to achieve that sun-kissed look! In Asia. Women were just as anxious as the men to avoid returning to society's rules and roles after the war.Eyebrows are very high. raspberry or medium red. they found it very difficult to return.50’s 3. 6 See Appendix Pic. leaving nearly a whole generation of young women without possible suitors. The Flappers' image consisted of drastic .changes in women's clothing and hair. Today this would be called the "Smokey eye" look. Flappers also started wearing make-up. Nearly every article of clothing was trimmed down and lightened in order to make movement easier. 8 8 . However. 6 7 See Appendix Pic. marriage). both the boys and the girls of this generation had broken out of society's structure.e. settling down in peacetime proved more difficult than expected. Deep red. shocking . Cover your normal eyebrows using nose putty or soap.1 The Roaring Twenties makeup – The Flapper style Flappers had their origins in the liberal period of the Roaring Twenties. the girls had bought into the patriotic fervor and aggressively entered the workforce. they were going to enjoy life. For nails colors like pale rose. mauve. light blue and orange cream. The (often false) eyelashes were curled.10 9 .3. 9 10 See Appendix Pic. eyebrows were then be dressed with petroleum jelly. During the end of the 1930s fashion-conscious women still kept the half-moon bare but applied polish to the end of the tips. brown and orchid were applied .as natural as possible . To get this effect a slightly darker warmish foundation was used and then powdered over with a powder that was lighter than normal skin. for a short time. For a daytime look petroleum jelly (without eyelid shade) was applied to the upper eyelids to match the shiny eyebrows. deep corals. In the early 1930s rouge in very light pinks was used. brunettes used brown grease paint with faint purple for a mysterious exotic flair. A color . from mid to the thirties. Many different eyelid shades which stretched over blue. pale pink. bright violet. mother of pearl gray. For evening the brightly shimmering eyelid shadow was applied from the upper eyelid up to the eyebrow. A dark eyeshadow was used in the crease of the upper lid and smudged slightly to create a deep set effect. In the later 30s primarily bright red tones. To give them a shiny look. Later. Up to the middle of the thirties most popular lipstick colors were light rose. From the mid thirties on women prefered ivory in varying tones of pink. even black nail varnish came into fashion. brillantine or olive oil. if any. 1932.2 1930’s makep In the early thirties a complexion like "Gardenia" (white and waxen) or "Tea rose" (ivory with a touch of pink) was most popular face foundation. Blondes prefered blue. "Crawford Smear" or "Cruller"10. raspberry shades.3 1940’s Natural beauties (natural with "a little support") were the ideal of the forties. 9 See Appendix Pic. green. light pink and cream shades were applied during the early thirties. light mauve or with a slightly light green touch. This kind of mouth was called the rosebud mouth. 3. gold or silver were used corresponding to the dress color. The eyebrows were plucked thin or shaved off entirely. From mid to late 1930s every shade of red. The mouth should have full lips with an elongated bow that rounds and flares at the corners. green or bright violet eyelid shades. bird mouth. Therefore powders applied in rich ivory. Face powder was used to match the skin or to gave a nice rosy glow. During this decade (as in the 20s) polishes were applied only in the center of nails with the halfmoon and tips left bare (white). yellow red or purple red were fashionable. chinese red and orange tones. emerald green. cornflower blue. Then the eyebrows were drawn on with an eyebrow pencil extended well toward the temple.with an easy bright pink undertone then arised at the end of the thirties9. raspberry tones. lilac. where lipstick was used to support a glorified natural look (includes light red. black.13 10 . Suddenly. Eyeshadows mostly varied in muted grays and browns. Basic look was a polished nail with a left out white half-moon and a white sliver at tip.12 13 See Appendix Pic. titanium was added to makeup products towards the end of the 1950s. On the on hand the "monotone". reddish orange. In order to tone down the brightness of makeup. and mauve were popular. Two different color plans for lipstick use existed. but were manicured into clean. and raspberry tones) and on the other hand the "contrast". Makeup in the 1950s became all about emulating what was seen on the screen. To effect this top lip was slightly exaggerated12. however. In any case lips should look full and soft. For lips all shades of red including clear bright reds. Many used it as a sort of base: once their face was entirely covered in foundation and looked flawless. Especially blue-reds. It is for this reason that Max Factor invented this foundation during this decade. bright reds. plum. and orange reds were popular. cherry red." The foundation was intentionally designed to imitate what was being seen at the movie theater on the big screen. Therefore a lot of colors were used. green. Eyebrows were kept fairly natural in thickniss. It was popular to wear nail polish according to clothes and accessories. women were able to see that the lipstick that film stars wore on screen was bright. well defined arches and accented by use of a dark brown pencil . brown-reds. pinkish reds. where lips brought a definite accent (includes cherry red. bright pinks with fuchsia undertones and bright roses11. Blush 11 12 See Appendix Pic. crimson and vermillion shades).To get a natural rosy look popular rouge colors were red with pinkish undertones. cherry reds. Women applied foundation to cover imperfections and neutralize their skin tone. mustard yellow. Until then. navy blue.11 See Appendix Pic. Lipstick The explosion of color motion pictures in the film industry replaced black and white films and heavily influenced the makeup of women in the 1950s. most women featured cherry-colored lips13 at any time of day and for any occasion big or small. The 1950s were a time of obsession over perfection. For the eye dark brown or black mascara and a small eyeliner was used. 3. they were then ready to use other makeup.4 1950’s Foundation Foundation became widely used in the 1950s with the invention of "Pan Cake. and to do so in a way that was flawless14.14 See Appendix Pic. Women often applied two coats of thickening black mascara to their eyelashes. bold line that extended to the outer tip of their eyes. but eyelashes were very much played up. 14 15 See Appendix Pic. women paired red blush with their cherry red lipstick.15 11 . Eyebrows were filled in with a dark brown pencil to make them look thicker and fuller15.To achieve that glamorous look seen on the big screen. Women used black liquid eyeliner to create a thick. the intent with the blush was to add a bit more color back to the face. Eyelids were generally left neutrally toned. After applying a coat of foundation to the entire face. Rosy cheeks were considered very attractive in the 1950s. Two thick circles were applied to the cheeks directly below the cheekbone. Eye Makeup The eyes were just as crucial of an element as the lips for women in the 1950s. tongs or heated rollers were required to make the hair flick. Makeup after 1950’s 1960’s Make Up In the late 50s the make up company Gala had introduced pale shimmering lipsticks with added titanium. 1980’s Make Up In the 1980s the "age of excess" was easily translated into hairstyles. Lip liner was all the rage. In the early seventies eyes sometimes had white highlighter on the brow and sometimes soft coloured eye shadows were used around the eyes in a way that had been used for eyeliner. They really caught on in the sixties as young girls were frowned upon if they wore brazen red lips.17 18 See Appendix Pic. The rough cut blonde flicked hairstyle was popularised by Farrah Fawcett Major18 from the series 'Charlie's Angels'. Eyes were a main focus and once the film Cleopatra was released showing Elizabeth Taylor with very emphasised eyes everyone learnt to apply eyeliner and socket lines17. Magazines taught step by step how to use recently introduced lip brushes and young girls began to blend and mix their own lip colours often having first blotted the lips out with Max Factor Pancake make up. Later Max Factor brought out a colour called Strawberry Meringue which was a pastel pearly pink. in general — the bigger. but then became a trend16. Pearlised liquid eyeshadows were a new innovation and a similar product was promoted in 2001.18 19 See Appendix Pic. Constant use of blow drying.4. the better. so the softened pink and peach colours were acceptable initially to parents. 19 20 See Appendix Pic. Pop stars such as Madonna19 and Cyndi Lauper20 popularized a style that included heavy makeup 16 17 See Appendix Pic. 1970’s Natural Look A natural look was important in the mid and late seventies.16 See Appendix Pic. Eyeliner and painted on eyelashes all became passé and softer looks were fashionable.20 12 . Other styles included Afro perms which only required washing and forking with a special lifting and separating comb. Nail polish followed a similar trend with pastel pearl colours being the rage. Very long eyelashes were still desirable. Loose powder went out of fashion and foundations worn alone gave a sheer effect. from Sinead O'Connor's shaved head to heavy metal "hair bands" with their makeup and explosion of long. To go along with the rest of the face women chose a dark matte shade of red. Decidedly less audacious middle-class white teen-age boys adapted the punk-influenced spiked hairstyle. Make up was also quite defined to match power dressing. Hair was big and blousy and uplifted with mousse in true Dynasty and Dallas style. Laurent (YSL) launched his famous Touché Éclat which became a must in many women's handbag. the 90s introduced a decade of a grunge look. Black mascara was the mascara of choice but women also chose to us this very sparingly. anti ageing and beauty treatments or therapy. Skin cancer became talked about and a big issue was to tan or not to tan. In opposition to these trends. heavily processed version of the Afro." a sparkling wet-looking. Eye shadow was applied to give the eye a very smoky look. The most famous haircut that came from the 90s was most famously known as ―The Rachel‖21. colors such as brown and grey were used.21 13 . Fake tans were improved and bronzing gels and bronzing face powder beads were popular. Hair. but the main feature was the emphasis put on skin care. Hair was almost more important than make up. A little bit of a light color blush was applied softly. Women suck to a very fresh looking face. a neoconservative "preppy" look was also in.with vibrant neon colors and intentionally messed-up and off-colored hair. A favourite product of the era was Clarins' Beauty Flash instant facial pick me up. Michael Jackson sported the "jheri curl. women turned away from long mornings of teasing and perming hair and went to a more softer and shorter look. 1990s Women no longer went for the glamorous look. 21 See Appendix Pic. Yves St. More importantly some of the items they sell can be easily bought from their internet site worldwide and delivered anywhere in the UK. New lighter face skin foundations seemed to be announced every month and the end of the decade saw some very good foundations emerge in the marketplace. This was a combination of the razor cutting that layered the hair and softly smoothing styled ends.Women left behind the crazy overly large hair and moved on to a softer more sleek style. Androgyny also made a stunning impact in the '80s. Companies like Marks & Spencer launched great skincare and make up ranges to suit the pockets of everyone. The bright artificial colors were out and the dark browns and grey came in. popularizing traditional short hairstyles for men and women. Flat ironing and razor cutting came into play during the 90s. Eyeliner was used very subtly and was used very sparingly. The shorter hair styles was all the rage in the 90s. dyed hair. Many people spent hours under sun beds. which sometimes included a small braid at the back of the neck (the "rat tail"). every look I am doing is unique. I believe makeup developed in time slowly. is shaped by the mood. is a method of gaining confidence or just change the way that we want the persons around us to perceive you that day. the skin is a wonderful canvas which offers billion of possibilities to create a masterpiece. feelings of a certain person at a certain time. To sum up. it was amazing how many new things I was able to discover while searching for information. 14 . age.Conclusions As a conclusion. and how the beauty industry developed over the time. Makeup is a way of expressing myself. I could say that I was more than thrilled to do the research on this subject. but it truly became one of the most exciting form of art. I am really overwhelmed about the beauty routines which were used in the past. Defined eyebrows were required 15 .Vitorian Era pale toned shades Pic 4.5. Rosy cheeks were in trend Pic.2 – Red blush used to enhance features Pic. 1 – Elizabethan Era pale skin Pic.Appendix Pic.3. Flapper style Dark smokey eyelook Pic.Pic. 7.1920 Defined eyebrows. thickly drawn on 16 .The Gibson Girls Pic. 6. 8. The Crawford Smear. 9.Pic.Top lip exaggeration 17 . 12.Thinly plucked eyebrows Pic. 11. 10. lipstick shape style Pic.Soft pink blush look Pic. 17.Well defined crease 18 .Pic. 15. natural looking brows Pic. 14.Cherry coloured lips Pic.Groomed. 13. 16 – Peach/nude lips Pic.Pic.Ephasize on a flawless face <. Popstar Cyndi Lauper 19 .Pic. 19.Madonna wearing bright heavy makeup ’80 style Pic.Farah Fawcett beauty icon Pic. 18. 18. “The Rachel” 20 . 20.Pic.