www.arvindmills.com A REPORT ON THE INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP WE BELIEVE In people and their unlimited potential. In content and focus in problem solving. In teams for effective performance. In intellect & its power. WE ENDEAVOUR To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities. To nurture talent to build leaders for tomorrow’s corporation. To reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business contributions. WE DREAM Of excellence in all endeavours. Of mutual benefit and prosperity. [ARVIND LIMITED] (23.05.2011 – 16.07.2011) SUBMITTED BY PRASHANT GUPTA TEXTILE DESIGN 2008-2012 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, NEW DELHI www.arvindmills.com CONTENTS ACkNOwLEDgEMENT COMPANy PROfILE ORgANISATIONAL CHART PRODOCTIONAL CAPACITIES & CAPAbILITIES PRODUCT RANgE AND CUSTOMERS MATERIALS AND MANUfACTURINg PROCESS DESIgN AND DEVELOPEMENT qUALITy ASSURANCE COSTINg MARkETINg AND DISTRIbUTION CSR SMALL SCALE PROjECTS - bRAND STUDIES - COLLECTIONS - RESEARCH ON CHECkS & STRIPES www.arvindmills.com ACkNOwLEDgEMENT Any project requires the efforts of many people and this work was no different. I extend my heartfelt thanks to Mr. Subhanish Malhotra, H.R. Shirtings, Arvind Limited, Santej Plant, Gandhinagar and his colleagues Mr. Keyur Patel and Mr. Jimmy Devid for enlightening our mind towards specific process details regarding spinning, weaving and processing of shirting department at Arvind Limited with their valuable supervision. I would also like to thank to Mr. Amit of weaving department, Mr. Saikat of dyeing department, Mr. Shubhanjan of finishing section, Mr. Jigesh of bleaching section and Mr. Suresh of printing department for extending their arms to provide us the technical knowledge with full support and help. I am very much thankful to Mr. Vijay Mehta, Manager- Design & Development, an alumni of NIFT, Delhi and Mr. Sanjay Suman for his guardian like support without which it would be very difficult for me to adjust in an entirely different place and atmosphere. I cannot forget to extend my thanks to Ms. Neha Singh, the faculty in charge of the industrial visit for arranging such learning session and my colleague Arpita Jain for his support as well as the full co-ordination during the visit. Prashant Gupta Textile Design 2008-2012 NIFT, New Delhi. Shirtings business Division The Arvind Mills Limited Santej Road Near Khatrej Taluka Kalol Dist Gandhinagar - 382721 Gujarat India Tel: +91-2764-281100/22 Fax: +91-2764-281027 Industry Mentor – Mr. Vijay Mehta Page no. - 1 www.arvindmills.com COMPANy PROfILE ARVIND LIMITED Arvind limited, the company which now holds a position globally was initiated by the three brothers Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai in 1931, when India began boycotting fine and superfine fabrics made in Britain. The Lalbhai’s reasoned the demand for the need made of Indian fine and superfine fabrics and started Arvind limited with a share of Rs.2,525,000 shares, with 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The company outgrew all its competitors within a few years and today it is one of the largest companies, with a share of $500 million, it soon ventured into the following markets. TEXTILE ANNUAL CAPACITy DENIMS 120 Million Meters SHIRTING 35 Million Meters KHAKI 21 Million Meters KNITS 10,000 Tonnes VOILES 33 Million Meters Page no. - 3 www.arvindmills.com Mauritius. U. is setting it’s vision on becoming the largest apparel brands company in India. It has today acquired fame and position as one of the foremost denim and jeans manufacturer of the world Page no. Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on select core products. Arvind brands with its international licenses of Lee. Arvind Mills Ltd is one of India’s largest composite manufacturer of textiles. having chosen to invest strategically. Newport. Mumbai. Wrangler. Such a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena. London.com .5 www. to its international and domestic customers. Arvind has truly become global.S. The Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs. Knits and Khakhis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over. Forevision and Technology has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the world.Kasturbhai is the chairman and managing director of the company.Arvind today manufactures fabric for the following brand names:In – house brands Excalibur Flying machine Ruff and tuff New Port university Licensed Brands Gant. Delhi. Arvind has a worldwide network today. . knits and khakis. With the Indian economy poised for rapid growth. and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate. denims. Shri. the company endeavors to be a one-stop shop for leading garment brands. Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine. shirting’s. With its presence across the textile value chain. Bangalore and Ahmedabad. where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. Mr.A.20 billion (US$ 500 million) Lalbhai Group. Arvind is already making its presence felt in Shirting’s. 1949 Hart Shaffner Marx USPA Sansa Belt Pier Cardin Paris Arrow Cherokee Joint Ventured Brands Tommy Hilfiger Nautica Lee Wrangler Wrangler Hero Riders Now.Lalbhai grandson of Late. of offering garment packages. The Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931. Today. Sanjay S. Arvind has become a true Indian multinational. With the best of technology and business acumen. Bangladesh.arvindmills. with offices in New York. Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf. Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service. Post Draw frame:.Here. parallelized and the sliver quality is improved by drawing. parallely allinged slivers in which individual fibers can be pulled out easily are produced.The two for one twist machine is for twisting th plied yarns and producing bigger cones. Top quality cotton is imported from various places:VARIETy Karo Gizza-76 Acala Pima REgION West Africa Egypt Sudan Australia qUALITy Long and Strong Extra Long and Strong Long and Strong Extra Long and Strong SPINNINg:. They are then fed into the machine by vaccum suction for cleaning and transported further by blowing air. cotton and lycra. BLOW ROOM RE-WINDING CARDIND RING FRAME Page no. Comber:-The laps are fed into where they are combed by rollers with tooth.ARVIND SHIRTINgS Arvind shirting is a composite unit with spinning.Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing under tension through roller pairs.Yarns from bobbins are transferred to bigger packages called cone on Simple cone winder or Machine winder or Autoconer.com .It’s the process of converting fibres into yarn. neps are removed and a long and uniform slive is obtained which is collected in drums. Ring frame:. The fibers processed here are cotton and blends of cotton and polyester. this results in the removal of black soot from the surface of the yarns. winding:. . for this fibres have to go through a number of processes Blow Room Carding Pre Draw Frame Comber Post Draw Frame Fibres Speed Frame Ring Frame Winding TFO Singeing Rewinding. This is done to remove lose fibers and short hair that cause disturbance in the smoothness of yarn. Rewinding:.arvindmills. TfO:.The yarns are rewound again after they are singed. this results in the removal of black soot from the surface of the yarns. Rewinding:. processing and finishing.6-12 combed sliver are further combined. blow Room:. Finely.The individualization of fibre takes place. cotton and nylon.The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature and pressure. smooth. thus reducing the mass/length of the forming yarn. Carding:.Roving is spun into yarn of desired count by imparting twist.The yarns are rewound again after they are singed. Singeing:. the bales of cotton fibres are laid spread out and openend up. Pre Draw frame:.Here 8 carded slivers are fed into the drawing machine where they are combined and drawn into a single sliver using some tension. WINDING SINGEING Speed frame:. weaving.7 www. Yarn Dyeing.Weaving is the interlacing of warp(vertical) and weft(horizontal) yarns to make fabric. It works by the process of oxidation. Drying:. 2.9 MERCERIZATION www. Inspection Grey Mending Finish Mending Rolling Batching. These are wound on the warp beam in this section.Fabric inspection is examination of every yard of fabric as the fabric moves slowly across a lighted inspection table.Bleaching is a chemical process used to enhance the whiteness of the fabric. There are cylindrical stands onto which the packages are arranged and it is immersed in closed system. It can be of two types 1. Package Dyeing:. Sizing:-The yarns from warp beam are passed through size solution. .SIZING DRAFTING FABRIC SINGEING DYED PACKAGES AIR JET LOOM Page no. The use of enzymes ensures complete removal of starch– based sizes and also eliminates the need to use aggressive chemicals. Mercerization:-This is a treatment with caustic soda given to cotton fabric and thread employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance. 2.arvindmills. Sectional warping:. Package Dyeing.The pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length. Dyeing Rewinding Warping Sizing Drawing Weaving INSPECTION Processing:.In this the yarn is dyed in “cheese” form.For yarn winding the process is as follows INSPECTION:.sizing:. and color. Singeing:.It is completely removing the size by the application of enzymes.Warping 2. De. bleaching:. Rapier loom.The mercerized fabric is passed through a Vertical Drying Range where drying takes place. number. Significant flaws are noted and the general condition of the fabric is determined and recorded. 1. Weft Winding Warp Sec. They are combed slightly and fitted on drawing in machine. weaving:. yarn ends and fuzz.Air jet.The batch of fabric is passed through a number of processes to enhance the properties of the fabric. Drawing:-The free ends from the beam are pulled vertically and clamped on the brush beam.com . this makes the yarns coarse so that they can resist friction and abrasion during weaving and other processing. GREY MENDING WARP SIZING DENTING DE .It’s the process of passing fabrics through flame to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres. Two types of looms are used for weaving here are1.DyEINg:Dyeing is imparting colour to the fibre or fabric. shrunk fabrics.It is generally integrated with the finishing department. Trough Squeezing Straightening Drying Batching Sanforising Stentering:. responsible for making up. While stretching the yarns are aligned parallel. CALENDERING Administration and Accounts Administration Accounts Banking DRYING Page no. Inspection and Dispatch:. Mild Resin. Stentering C. Moist cure finish. Some other commonly used chemical finishes are:Normal soft finish.The fabric is made to pass through a solution of finishing chemicals thus wetting it.The fabric is rotated at a very high speed and air is blown to give a soft hand to the fabric. final quality control and logistics. ORgANISATIONAL CHART ARVIND LIMITED Managing Director (Sanjay Lalbhai) HR Deptt.It is done by passing the fabric on drums with emery rollers at high speed. . ETI – Easy to iron finish.11 www.P. The finish prevents any further shrinking of stretching of fabric.com . Airo finish:. Nano pel finish. Liquid ammonia finish.T. Perfumed finish. Arvi-silk finish. U-V protective finish. Then it is stretched and dried. Vitamin E finish. Nano care finish.fINISHINg:. Mechanical finish Peach finish:. Mechanical.Finishing process are the value addition treatments given to the fabric to make it more attractive and appealing. There are two types of finishes 1. Chemical 2. The friction gives a smooth feel to the fabric. FINISHING MACHINE Stores Exports & Quality domectics Assurance Garment packages division Chemical finish STENTER Spinning Weaving processing Engineering & Finishing Order Management & Documentation Production Purchases Production Order Management Sampling Documentation Invoicing Sanforising:.arvindmills.Shrinking is carried out here to obtain pre. DPR – Durable press ready finish. whether it is information. • Continuous product development – new fibres/yarns/finishes.arvindmills. It is equipped to spin compact yarn as well as slub yarns.PRODUCTION CAPACITIES AND CAPAbILITIES Arvind Limited has reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it is the third largest producer of Denim in the world. ACTIVITIES •Cotton •Yarn •Fabric Denim Shirting Khakhi Knits •Apparel Denim Shirts Khakhi •Brands In-house Brands Intl licensees LOCATION Akola Ahmadabad. . Santej Naroda. • Assurance of quality and consistency. Production capacity Yarn dyed Solid dyed Indigo Jacquard Total million yards/annum 18.13 www.0 The plant has an integrated manufacturing facility from yarn to finished fabrics under one roof. • World class product & design innovation. The SAP R/3 module facilitates better and faster material management for our customers. Flexible production has been made possible and is reflected through: • Lower minimums.7 0.5 million yards per annum and a turnover of USD 97 million per annum of 100% high value cotton shirtings has been made at Arvind’s 450-acre Santej textile complex near Ahmedabad. The division believes in the philosophy “On time and in full”. The testing laboratories are equipped with the latest testing equipment. product quality or order quantity. High value cotton shirting fabric has been made at Arvind’s 450 acre Santej Textile Complex with a total capacity of 33 million meters per annum. • Consistency and quality. Santej Santej Santej Santej Bangalore Bangalore Bangalore Bangalore Bangalore Page no.7 5. All products are Eco-friendly and Oekotex 100 certified A capital investment of USD 100 million in a greenfield project with a capacity of 33. With a capacity of 18 million metres per annum the green field venture of Arvind is a sincere effort towards achieving global dominance. Computerized yarn-dyeing machines.5 7. with the installation of the latest technology and continuous quality improvement program. The state of the art machinery includes Yarn-singeing machines. which can perform tests of international standards. Next and Tommy Hilfiger. and are accredited by Marks & Spencer. The garmenting capacity of Arvind Knit’s is supported by a fabric production of 4992 tones per annum. • Reflection of product/fashion dynamics. etc.6 33.com . Technical Excellence has been achieved through: • Investments in state-of-the-art European Technology. Delivery Adherence – on time every time. The design studio attached to the pilot mill is fully equipped to reproduce customer design samples and also to make customized seasonal collections. automatic drawing-in machines. • Strong emphasis on design creation/modification to suit specific customer needs. The Shirting division is committed to world class quality products. It is equipped with state of the art technology right from spinning of the yarn to final processing and testing of the high quality fabric. • 5 Small sizing machines. wOVENS : MARkET SEgMENT Region Volume/Annum (Million meters) • USA 24 • EUROPE 17 • FAB RETAIL 20 • BRANDS 12 • RMG 7 • TRADE 4 • TOTAL 84 Mini Mill dedicated for Design & Development. SPINNINg • 58000 Spindles Yarn producing 100% cotton • 100% cotton and poly cotton blended yarn from 7 count to 170/2. • Capacity : 90+30 Handlooms/day • Color Library : 600 Reactive color shade : 200 VAT SECTIONAL WARPER wOVENS PRODUCTION CAPACITy Products • Yarn Dyeds • Non Yarn Dyeds Whites/Dyeds • Prints • Indigos Capacity per annum (Million meters) 54 23 6 7 SUZUKI WARPER Page no.000 Spindles Products Capacity per annum • Spinning 87.000 Spindles Unit 2 : 25. Handlooms • 11+4 small looms for Handlooms.5 mn units Jeans 6 mn units PRODUCT PORTfOLIO yardages and blankets • 7+3 Suzuki Warpers • 4 Sectional Warpers • 24+19 looms • Capacity : 35+15 Yardages and Blankets / day.com .ARVIND INDUSTRIAL PARk • Location • Land area • Work Force • Technology • Vertical Integration Santej 450 Acre 1227 From around the world Entire production facility is under one roof.15 www. .arvindmills.000 tons • Fabrics Denim 100 mn meters Shirting 48 mn meters Khaki 18 mn meters Knit 4200 tons • Voiles 24 mn meters • Prints 5 mn meters • Apparel Shirts 4. • Products are within 25% of Uster world statistics : • Unit 1 : 33. 2/100s and 2/140s • wEAVES : Twill( mainly 3/1). Benetton. kohls. 50s. Giza 76. . Diamond Energizing and Brushing • EUROPE . Flying Machine.25 oz. Polo. Acolt. Roccawear. Viscose. Odor Free. Kenzo. Peter Werth. Kohl’s. Polyester Cotton. Twills. 30s. Herringbones. Chambrays and Solids in all possible weaves like twills. Modal. Brushing. Stain Free. 20s. Checks.3. Marc o polo. Carrefour. Arvi silk. Fil-a-fils. Stretch (Lycra. Oxfords. Devenhams. Lycra. UV Cut. Bamboo. Modal etc : Yarn dyed . 50s/1 to 100/1. in counts 24s. Jansport. Nano-Pel. Three-Ply. dobbies and jacquards. Facconable. Next. Kipling. Hart Schaffner. Phat Farm. Ann taylor. Linen. Tencel. Yarn dyed. 2/30s. Brooks Brothers. Oshkosh. • VARIETIES : Yarn-Dyed Stripes. Prepress. J. Burberry. Oxfords. Old navy. Linen. Biancalani. Stretch. Express. Nauatica. Stretch (Lycra. 24s.Silk Touch.arvindmills. Oxford ( plain & pinpoint). : Prepress. Poplins. May Dept. Pierre Cardin. Two-Ply.Marks & Spsencer. 2/80s and 2/100s.0 oz. Pull and Bear. French Connection. •MECHANICAL fINISH : Peaching. Mervyns. Tom Tailor. Plain. Four-Ply etc.Jill.PRODUCT RANgE AND bRANDS • COUNTS : 16s. : 7/1 to 80/2. Perma-White Shirting (Casual) • Fibers • Categories • Counts • Product • Finishes : Cotton. satins. Massimo Dutti. Herringbone. Tommy Hilfiger. Espirit. 80/2 to 170/2s. Liz Claiborne. etc. Diamond Energizing. Light weight Denim : 16’s . to 8. Super Soft. etc. US Polo. Izod. Structured weaves. Everfresh. FC UK. RHT for double/ triple yarn. 50s. Twills. 2/80s. Matt. Satin : Aero Finish. Cortefiel. Carbonium Peach. Ruff & Tuff and New Port University CUSTOMERS • USA – Gap. DKNY. • bLENDS : 100% Cotton. XLA). Prints. Solid dyed. Emidio Tucci. Linen : Compact. Ahlers. Speedo. Mavi Jeans. Polyester etc : Solid Dyed (Reactive . Jacquard. Max and many more. Organic. Arrow. Satin. Herringbones. Cherokee. Mélange. Perry Ellis. 4/120s : Canvas. Oxford ind. etc. : Dobby Structures. LHT for single yarn. Lands End. Pigment and Sulphur). 60s. Page no. Prints. Herringbones. Dockers. Nordstrom. Lane Bryant. Eddie Bauer. JC Penny.80’s/2 : Poplins. Wrangler. Viscose. 30s. A&F. Carbonium Peach. Nicole Ferrati. Grindle. Twills. : 16’S.com . Silk. Everfresh. Spring Field. Palm Beach. Anti-stain. Feeling the pulse of society Arvind is successfully launching its in-house brands like Excalibur. Shirting (Dress) • Fibers • Yarns • Counts • Product • Finishes : Cotton (Giza 45. Satin. khakhi’s • Fibers • Categories • Count • Product • Finish : Cotton. • CHEMICAL fINISH : ETI. Linen. Talbots. Ben Sherman. 40s. •INDIgO/SULPHUR : Indigo and sulphur-dyed casual products . Farhi. Structures : Aero Finish. Mastai Ferrati. Banana Republic. J Crew. Tommy. 40s. Tencel.17 www. Lords and Taylor. Arvind has largest portfolio of International brands: Lee. Pima). Singed. Nano-Care.XLA). 2/50s. Van Huesen. Anna Belle. • Licenced brands.19 www.com .Flying Machine. Manzoni.• INDIA. . Urbana.Arrow. Peter England. Indus League. Levi’s. Blackberry.Allen Solly.viscose Page no. The PPC department is functioning well with ERP(Enterprise resource planning) by using software like SAP and DATATEX Tencel and blends 100% tencel Tencel – cotton/linen/wool/ nylon/poly Tencel Lycra Indigo tencel Modal and blends 100% modal Modal -cotton/linen /poly Silk and blends 100% silk Silk –cotton/linen Tactel blends Tactel – cotton Other blends ARVIND bRANDS • Own brands. Raymonds. Excalibur. Ruggers. The labs are accredited by Marks & Spenser. Cool max. Megamart. MATERIALS AND MANUfACTURINg PROCESS The industry integrates weaving. Bombay Dyeing. Park Avenue. Provogue. Izod. COMPETITORS • Madure Garments. ITC Wills. Gant. Barc Leisure. Newport. Indus League.arvindmills. Ruf & Tuf. Scullers. Louis Philippe. Microprocessor controlled equipment with robotic storage system allow quick response to trends. Sansabelt. Indian Terrain.cotton Cotton – poly Lycra Cotton – nylon Lycra Cotton – poly micro filament Cotton – core spun Cotton . Wrangler. Zodiac. Cherokee. Lee. Color Plus. Tommy Hilfiger. dying and finishing and is well equipped to weave and process 100% cotton as well as blends. Pantaloon. It also reduces the waste and promotes the quality.Standardize and 5. 3. 2.arvindmills.Shine 4.care Teflon sr and terlon ht Anti microbial Mosquito repellent Scented Moisture management Arvi silk Arvi platinum finish Process Specific :quality ManagementThe 5s working definitions are applied which carries the quality management: 1.” Spinning: is a process of converting fibers into yarns. Fibers have to undergo certain processes from blowing to winding to take the shape of yarn. .Sort.Sustain.7/16 from china quality Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Extra long –very short cotton Long strong cotton Long strong cotton Extra long and extra strong cotton Extra long extra strong cotton Extra long and strong cotton Long strong cotton Long strong cotton Long and very strong cotton Extra long and very srong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton www.com .pel Nano. Blow room Carding Predrawfame Unilap Comber Post draw frame Speed frame Ring frame Random winding Assembly winding TFO Singeing Page no.finishes Nano .Set in order. Processing Mechanical stretch Core filament cotton for higher DP rating Micro fiber with aero finish Easy to iron with extra softness Fiber blends SpinningArvind Limited is committed “to produce quality yarn for world class shirting with optimum cost within stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.21 TyPES Of COTTON fIbERS USED IN ARVIND Name and place NHH-44 from India Ethel from brazil USI –1/8” from America Shankar-6 (super) from India Bunny Brahma from India MCU-5 from India Karo from west Africa Juli (mali) Bola – s burkina faso Gizza –76 from Egypt Gizza – 45 from Egypt Acala cotton from Sudan Raw cotton from Australia SJV Acala up laud from America Pima from Australia Pima from Israel Pima from America CISELS from Turkmenistan Barakrt from Sudan DCH-32 super from India MCU – 5 from India ELS 1. Finely smooth.com . These are called finished sliver. A relative humidity of 51-53% and temperature of 33-35% are maintained on the floor. The sliver is made more uniform in terms of mass per unit length. Short fibers are pulled out. Drawing: Pre draw frame: 8 carded slivers are fed into the drawing machine where they are combined and drawn into a single sliver using some tension. Carding: Individualization of fibers takes place. 2 rounds of roving are wound to begin with. and the guide on the arm carries it all around the bobbin thus winding it parallely. a machine that moves with toothed rollers running along then bales thus opening and blending them in layers. Speedframe: Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing under tension through roller pairs. They move through chambers where the dust and other impurities embedded in the fibers are separated out. The mass/ length is reduced. The rpm of blower is 72-140. Comber lap emerges out of this machine. Post draw frame: 6 combed slivers are further combined. The bobbins are placed one by one in rows and the armed flyer of the machine is lowered to the level of a black ring on it. There are 3 blowers of TRUTZSCHER BO 046 and 1 blendomat of TRUTZSCHER VDT 019. The blending happens with the help of Blendomat. Clean fiber tufts are sent to the carding section through overhead channels. The TRUTZSCHER machines DK 760.23 www. A single roll of lap weighs is 1 kg. Breaker sliver is the output. Page no. Unilap: Here 24-26 breaker slivers are combined to form a single lap sheet. Comber: The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by rollers with teeth. parallely aligned slivers in which individual fibers can be pulled out easily are produced after combing. There is facility to do three different mixing fiber types simultaneously. The drums were marked with colored rubber ribbons according to the count of yarn to be spun from that sliver. spread out and opened up. 8 laps are combined to form 1 combed sliver. They are called carded sliver that is of continuous length and collected in one drum at once. parallel and improved. the bales of cotton fibers sourced from various ginning mills are laid.blow room: Here. A much finer thread of fibers are produced. . KHC 891 and FDK 533 are employed here. paralellised and the sliver quality is improved by drawing. A uniform and long sliver is formed which is collected in drums. These are then fed into a machine by vacuum suction for cleaning and transported further by blowing air.arvindmills. The are 14 machines in one row and 7 in another. Neps are removed. 25 www. The bobbins when empty are tracked back to be collected by vacuum suction and dropped into a bin. A cone weighs app 1. Page no. There is no twist. 2 cones are used to double the yarn.com .8 kg. here. Assembly winding: Here. Z/Z twist is given. To prevent sloughing off.Ring frame: This is the process of formation of yarn. TfO: Random winding/ cone winding: Yarns from the bobbin are transferred to bigger packages called cone on simple cone winder/ mach winder or Autoconer. Those with free end are transported further and attached to the loose end present in the cone continuing the winding process.arvindmills. but only parallel winding of 2 or more yarns for ply and wound on cheese. These are wound on smaller spindles. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by imparting twist. . Bobbins placed in magazine are moved through channels and detected for loose ends. 4 pairs of rollers with and without groves play the drawing action thus reducing the mass/length and forming yarn. Then they are just spliced with each other thus avoiding knotting to get better efficiency in weaving. a guide takes the yarn around the package forming a firm setting. The two for one twist machine is for twisting the plied yarn and produces bigger cones. The package is called a pallet. Soft package winding is done for dying.” The yarn is transferred from single packages of yarn to an even sheet of yarn representing a number of sectioned bands of color wound onto a warp beam. Four Sucker Muller (Hacoba) machine is applied for the sizing.2 machines are currently being employed now to solve the working efficiency of the factory. The shed holds 170 looms which includes 98 Air-jet looms and 72 Rapier looms.e. There are two types of yarn dyeing frames – spring frame and P. The no. Then again the fabric rolls are made and batching is done by combining similar kind of rolls in huge batches for further processes. pressure and maintaining other specifications. After the weaving the inspection is required i. The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by rollers with tooth. The Omni air-jet and Gamma rapier looms are of PICANOL.P. . the examination of every yard of fabric as the fabric moves slowly across a lighted inspection table. This is done to remove loose fibers and short hairs that cause disturbance in the smoothness of the yarn. Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist & drawing under tension through roller pairs.1. 21 TRUTZSCHLER carding machines are their. Then the individualization of fibers take place called Carding. 12 draw frames are employed here out of which 6 for pre-draw frame and 6 for post-draw frame. Then it goes to yarn singeing and/or to yarn dyeing as per requirements.27 www. weaving For Weaving. Yarns from the bobbin are transferred to bigger packages called cone by the process called Winding. Then slivers are fed into a drawing machine where they are combined and drawn. Rewinding The yarns are again rewound after they are singed. Page no.arvindmills. Fibers have to undergo certain processes from blow room to winding room to take the shape of yarn. There are 21 grey inspection tables. This results in the removal of the black soot from the surface of the yarns. the mission is “to achieve ‘zero weaving defects’ with continuous improvement in process control parameters & training of people.com . After that denting and drafting is done and then interlacing of warp and weft yarns is done to produce the fabric. spread out and opened up with the help of blendomat and the cotton contamination controller. In blow room the bales of cotton are laid. tube. In Arvind the Chute feed system works for further process. which consists of 315 cones in each. Spinning is a process of converting fibers into yarns. CNG is used as fuel and singed yarn is obtained as output. The significant flaws are noted and defects get corrected by gray mending and finish mending. Here two batching machines are working with an average speed of 2000mts/hr. Hence the process of formation of yarns completed. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by imparting twist.5 kg. The speed of Air-jet loom is 720 rpm and 270300 mts fabric are woven per loom per day whereas the speed of Rapier loom is 520 rpm and the production is around 200 mts/loom/ day. Of rewinding machines are 2 under the singeing shed area and are known by the name main pilot motor. Before applying onto the loom shed Sizing of warp is necessary. The yarns are now kept packed under some cover ready to go for dyeing. There are 34 Lakshmi Ring Frames in which 1008 bobbins can get filled in a single machine.Singeing: The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature. it is the application of starch on the warp yarns to overcome tension levels in warp and to overcome the effects of abrasion and friction. Each cone weighs 1 . For shirting.29 www. the pattern is placed alternately. All ends on the warp beam are taped on both sides twice along the length to prevent slipping. These are wound on the warp beam in this section. The first 7-8 metres of warp are cut and removed. 13572468 upwards. The yarns from warp beam are passed through size solution. the yarns directly from beam dyeing are brought and the combination takes place during the sizing and drying and the total yarns for warp emerges and winds on weavers beam. Each row is used as layer for leasing. As and when required it is possible to give the code and obtain the beam.e. The loom shed has a capacity of 170 looms all together. SIZING LOOM SHED After warping and drafting the weavers beam along with the drop wire heald shaft and reed are loaded on the frame of the loom. A constant length of yarn is wound on all packages. There are 8 rows on the creel. . 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every section and a 50% lease towards the end. The Murata rewinding machines have a capacity of 50 spindles and they are 10 in total. binders and softeners. The 7 lease help in sizing to separate layers in order prevent sticking together. SECTIONAL WARPING LOOM SHED Page no. These are drawn through a leasing reed and warping reed and the emerging pattern wound on warping drum and finally on warping beam. 12 rollers dry the sized yarns. For double colored patterns. A creel of capacity 720 cones holds the yarns. SECTIONAL wARPINgThe pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length. codes fed on computer and stored on shelves with pulleys. According to number of packages required for sectional warping. RE-WINDING SIZINgA Sucker Muller (hacoba) make machine is employed for sizing. They get wound on a beam called weavers beam.arvindmills. which includes modified starch.com . number and color.wEAVINg PREPARATORy RE-wINDINgThe final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perforated bobbins to form soft cheeses that will be sent for winding. i. After sizing they are coded. At the rear end. 50% leasing helps in drawing. 7 lease rods separate the layers and yarns pass through a zigzag reed with even dents to ensure uniformity. which holds the yarns according to the warp pattern. 2-3 Local Mahavir machines can hold 120 spindles at once. as these would not have received proper sizing. with continuous improvement in quality & customer service.com .luster and an affinity to dye by Kyoto machine. . drop wire and dent. Th free ends are pulled vertically and clamped on the brush beam. 16 to 20 shafts are used to make woven designs. The production capacity of these machines is 270 to 300 meters of fabric per loom per day. Up to 8 colors can be inserted as weft. Maximum of six colors can be used as weft. The rapier looms are 72 in number and are used for weaving fancy fabrics through dobby. Rapier ProcessingFor Processing. Rotary printing and Digital printing.There are two different types of machines present in the loom shed: 1. A batch of 5000-6000 mts is bleached at any given time. denting order are stored in computer.” Fabric singeing is done to remove the hairiness of the fabric by passing it through flame at a very high speed then it goes for de-sizing in which the starch is removed that was applied during the sizing process onto the yarns. Most of the fabrics require the Bleaching process in which the whiteness of the fabric is increased by oxidation. It works on the principle of cam shedding. There are three methods of fabric Printing that is done here. The Mercerization process comes to give the fabric. Fabric dyeing is done only when the fabric has to be dyed in a single flat color. There is one DuPond Artistri 2020 machine of OUPONT is used for digital printing which has a production speed of 11mts/hr. The target production for one shift is around 35. Most of these looms can weave designs using 4 shafts. They are combed slightly and fitted on drawing in machine. About 200 meters of fabric are produced by one loom in a day. Drop wires and heald wires are filled in magazines that will be used during drawing. One OSTHOF m/c is employed for singeing and de-sizing both. while some of the looms have 8 shafts to make slightly complicated designs.arvindmills. Rapier action draws in yarns by breaking them and pulling though heald. Constant monitoring is required to avoid errors AIR JET LOOM RAPIER LOOM Page no. Airjet 2. Then washing is done which includes one steaming and two fresh water wash. other m/cs are Jigger and Jet-dye machine. AUTO DRAwINg IN MACHINE (STAUby DELTA 200) The sized beam with 50% lease is attached to a weaving assembly truck.31 www. PDPS m/c is used for reactive and vat dyes. BENNINGER m/cs are employed for continuous bleaching. the mission is “ To add significant value to yarn and fabric at every processing stage. After printing is done the color fixation is required which is performed by the processes Ageing and Curing for reactive and pigment printing respectively. Separate screen for separate color design is used. After de-sizing the rotation of the batch is required for 8 hrs to avoid accumulation of chemicals at one place. Speed of production in Rotary m/c is 50-80 mts/min.000 mts. All specifications as drafting order. The reed moves as the denting proceeds to occupy the position to catch the yarn. In ageing the fabric is passed through steam at 150˚C for 7 minute whereas in Curing the fabric is passed through steam of 102˚C for 5 minutes There are 98 Airjet looms for weaving plain fabrics and operates at a speed of 720 rpm. which forms a straight line. The speed of production is 25-50 mts/min.Table printing. dyeing and mercerization. Then the heald frames are inserted. It takes about 8 1 / 2 hours to complete the entire process that includes pretreatment and dyeing of the yarn. The Recipe includes: SOLUTION MAkERTo prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration. any special remarks. Sodium hydro sulphite (reducing agent) 3. Caustic (to make vat soluble in water) 4. Alkali-caustic/ soda ash Pretreatment. 2. Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. process following dyeing before matching. This is a computerized process and requires little intervention manually. Then the sample is dried in the dryer. The pressure exercised is 3kg/cm3. The machines which are used are: 1. Cold brand dyes are not used since they have lower fastness and not suitable for mercerization process. The count of yarn required. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous mixing. The range of dye that can be added is shown on the screen. HEXL and vat dyes are used for mercerization. 5gms 3. The ratio of chemicals and temperature depends upon the shade of the dye. Salt (for exhaustion) 3. AUTOLAB.yARN DyEINg The swatches sent by the customer to be reproduced are considered as standard on which the yarn color depends. De-aerating cum wetting agent 3. yarn or paper cuttings. Hence never used in shirting. To check the uniformity of dyeing. The swatches could be in the form of fabric.Vat 1. Soda ash (for fixation) 4. Color (HE/ME) 2.arvindmills. Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms Pretreatment. Generally reactive HE dyes are dyed at 80 C since these are hot brand dyes. . Then the yarn or the fabric swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time.Scouring 1. The weight of the package is 12kgs to 78kgs. The dried yarn is then wound on to a card The yarn card is placed before Page no. Color 2. A beaker is placed in which some quantity of water is filled. turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms.&@ DISPENSERThere is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific proportions to get any shade. The shade that is closest to the given swatch is chosen and recipe is modified till the perfect shade is achieved.com . Stabilizer for peroxide Acid for neutralization Dyeing. Then they refer to their library where almost one lakh shades and their recipes have been recorded. The dye bath is ready at 70 C and gradually increased. Sequestering/ Chelating agent 2. Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. For vat dyes it depends on dye-class. this is helpful.Bleaching 1. Yarn is dyed in package form in closed system. HTHP machines are used and the capacity varies from 100 to 700 kg. This is referred to as the ‘within package leveling report’. H2O2 (oxidizing agent) TURBOMAT SPETRA DYE INFRARED COLOUR Then the samples are washed in open bath beaker mechanically. The recipes of different trial are recorded in the work sheet. Water is filled to achieve that concentration. Hydrogen peroxide 2. the light source to be tested under. The quantity of yarn to be dyed in a particular shade will be specified by the PPC department. Usually reactive and vat dyes are used for dyeing.Reactive 1. yarn from 4 different layers of a package is wound on a card and compared. The beaker is replaced and desired concentration entered in the system. Leveling agent Dyeing. the required quantity are all mentioned in a specification sheet and received from the design and development department.33 www. Again stirring happens. IN OUT for reactive dyes and IN OUT and OUT IN for vat dyes. A maximum of 250 C can be achieved.steam) 3.1. U30. hot water and cold water. the sample is inserted into the solution and taken out between two rollers. incandescent.(pad-dry. The different lights UV. These are: 1. Vat. This also reduces the dyes thus fixing them permanently. Matching is done in unprocessed stage or after bleaching. TC 84. Th procedure is for 20 minutes at 95C. Cold wash is carried out after this followed by rinsing and drying.batch-wash) MATHIS PADDING MANGLE: a continuous process of dyeing. mercerization. H2O2 is added at 95 C and stirred for 30 min. D65 (daylight). LSER and SPLF (wetting agent) are added to soften the water.com . This is a computerized color matching system. .35 www. steam. VERIVIDE and SPECTRA LIGHT are light boxes used for color matching visually. A close shade is predicted and recipe obtained. The liquor is sent back to mixing vessel where soda ash is added for fixation.Procedure bleaching: LS. washing: H2O2 and alkali are removed by treatment with hot water at 95 C for 10 minutes. MATHIS PADDING MANGLE SPECTRA LIGHT MATHIS DRIER MATHIS PAD STEAM RANGE Page no. YL is added for lighter shade and Supra for darker shade are added for softening and fixing. Shade matching: Once the yarn is dried it is sent for shade matching in computer.Caladon(pad-dry-cure) 2. PIECE DyEINg The swatch obtained from the customer is measured for the color by computer. STCP and caustic are taken at room temperature and raised to 50 C. Drying and curing take place here.pad. SPLF. F-11 Filament. It is sent to the dyeing chamber and treated at 80 C for 45 minutes. MATHIS PAD STEAM RANGE: fabric is fed from one side and moves along rollers while being treated with caustic+ hydrose. The solution is drained and material is washed for 10 minutes at 80 C. optical brightening or their combination. The peroxide and alkali are neutralized with acetic acid and 10L.pad.(cold. The color is added finally and boiled at 80 C for 30 minutes. These codes are useful for reference. soap + soda. This is stirred for 10 minutes and salt added. Cold white. Dyeing takes place in stages following procedures according to the type of dye. MATHIS DRIER: the time is set and fabric inserted. Codes are allotted to each shade according to the type of dye used. Washing with fresh water at 80 C for 10 minutes is done. Drying: If the yarn matches. Dyeing: Fresh hot water is taken in the dyeing chamber. Then the package goes to RF machine for drying which takes 1.5 hrs. H2O2 .arvindmills. Vat pigment. it is drained of chemicals. Reactive. Soaping: ADW is added to wash off extra dyes. quantity and basic color. it is stirred for 5 min in mixing vessel and brought to the dyeing chamber. It is washed in cold water for 2 minutes. Horizon etc are used according to specification of the customer. . There are some mechanical finishes which don’t need any chemical or water. It gets continuous design inputs on latest international trends from designers based in Italy and UK. qualified from Internationally reputed institutes. Great emphasis on Design and Product Development. Sanforising prevents any further stretching or shrinking of fabrics while being used by consumer. After that in Straightening Unit the weft yarns are aligned parallel with the help of photo-sensered cameras. Moistcure etc. Liquid ammonia. Range Collections: Season-wise collections for S/S and A/W. • Each season we design. Stock Service through the Classic Line Collection.arvindmills. Mild resin. peach finish and Airo finish come in this category. Vitamin-E. Two LAFER machines are employed for mechanical finish • The division has an in-house Design Studio with a team of qualified professional designers. Calendar finish increases the shinning whereas peach adds toughness to the fabric. Calendar finish. Anti-microbal.37 www. Italian and Spanish designers on board. • Our designers constantly predict market trends offering our customers a wide range of products. We pass the fabric between rubber beds and over hot rollers shrinks it to desired width.com . Then the fabric goes for specific kind of finishes like Arvi-silk finish. Nano care finish. Page no. • 23 in house designers. Soft finish. collections in fresh colors expressing our deep knowledge of fabrics. For Sanforising and Stentering Machines of MONFORTS are employed. ETI. Micro scent. U-V protective.fINISHINg DESIgN AND DEVELOPMENT Finishing is the combined process of value addition of the fabric as per the requirements. The design Studio is fully equipped with latest technologies. The fabric is treated in Stenter where it is made to pass through a solution of finishing chemical with Polyethylene emulsion and squeezed. Customized collections for key customers(based on their concepts/inputs). com . Apart from this the major portion of the DDC dealing is analysis of the samples from outside clients and developments done on the basis of the analysis.39 www. we are a one stop shop of fabrics and Apparel. Showrooms • Ahmedabad • New York • Hong Kong • Dhaka Mini Mill dedicated for Design & Development. Once the sample is analyzed then it is sent for desk loom development. • 5 Small sizing machines. when the approvals are done then the running yardages of 20 – 60 meters are developed here to see how the fabrics look in the running stage . Handlooms • 11+4 small looms for Handlooms.arvindmills. paper designs copying. The recent developments and the new ones are generated here with the help of cad system .tex cad is the software which is brought into use by the well skilled designers here. First the handlooms are generated and then it sent to the clients for approval. Yardages and blankets • 7+3 Suzuki Warpers • 4 Sectional Warpers • 24+19 looms • Capacity : 35+15 Yardages and Blankets / day. cutting from the magazines or other sources. When the cads are approved then the sampling is one through the ddc department. . The total sampling is done here. The samples come in the form of small pieces.once the approvals is done from the client side then the final bulk production takes place. may be fabric imitations. NEW YORK SHOWROOM Page no.facilities: Computer Aided Designing A mini mill dedicated to design & development Sample sizing & warping for desk loom samples & road samples Independent weaving for sample making Small package dyeing machine for new shades Comprehensive shade library to enable quick responses. • Capacity : 90+30 Handlooms/day • Color Library : 600 Reactive color shade : 200 VAT SANTEJ SHOWROOM The design house is divided into 2 sections the DDC department and the design studio. 7. AP. which fulfills all the requirements and measures the different parameters for cotton to be used in production. Maharashtra.the percentage of coarseness and fineness of the fiber i. in the fiber stage only there are certain relevant tests. Around 150-200 gms of fibers are taken for testing.short fiber length (no. Haryana Punjab Haryana Rajasthan Maharashtra Maharashtra Maharashtra. the degree of yellowness or whiteness of the fibers. which it detects.length of the fiber 2.com . A comb is used to take out ‘fiber beard’.41 www. MP Gujarat Rajasthan. MP. Haryana.the different criteria. Gujarat AP. Karnataka AP. USTER MDTA 3 This is used to test impurities in cotton.e. are as follows: 1.Rd: the color i. Rajasthan Gujarat Gujarat Karnataka Gujarat Gujarat. Maharashtra Maharashtra Below 15 16-18 19-21 21-22 21-22 21-23 21-23 24-26 23-26 26-28 24-26 24-26 24-26 24-28 25-27 24-28 25-27 26-28 26-28 27-29 27-30 28-30 30-35 33-38 36-39 1. which is used to feed the machine. fIbRO SAMPLER.HVI SPECTRUM (High Volume Instrument) – ZELLWEGER USTER This is a prime instrument. the micronaire measurement. The testing starts at its infancy i. TN MP.elongation or elastic behavior of the fiber 5. TN. . The clean cotton serves as a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver. of fibers lesser than ½”) 6.uniformity in the length 3. AP. Tamil Nadu Maharashtra Maharashtra Andhra Pradesh Madhya Pradesh Maharashtra. Punjab.strength of the fiber 4. Rajasthan Gujarat Rajasthan. micro dust and major impurities. TN Maharashtra AP MP.e. 2. Maharashtra Maharashtra Gujarat MP AP.e. 3.qUALITy ASSURANCE • QA Lab is accredited by • Marks & Spencers • Levi’s • L L Bean • Next • Gap Inc • Invista (For Lycra Testing) • Liz Claiborne (Under Process) • We are Oekotex-100 certified.HVI 900 This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except color.arvindmills. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and the output includes clean cotton. There are certain quality tests that the yarns have to undergo at each stage to ensure total quality assurance. Vigilant On-Line and Off-Line QA at all stages of Production to sustain consistent Product. • Arvind is certified to Eco Sustainable textiles standards and Organic Exchange 100 • We are committed to Fair Trade and our product meets the Fair trade principles. Variety of cotton Assam comila Bengal deshi Kalagin Wagad Jaydhar G 12 G 11/Digvijay V 797 J 34 F 414 H 777 Agetti DHY 286 AHH 486 NHH 44 LRA 5166 MCH 1/11 JKHY 1 MECH 1 H 4/ H 6 S6 S4 MCU 5 DCH 32 SUVIN AK 277 G6 Y1 AKHG CJ 73 A 51/9 1007 Varalakshmi Region of procurement Span length mm Assam Punjab. which a fiber has to undergo before it is sent further. Page no. doubled and open end yarn. A3…denotes the mass of the yarn which in turn is a measure of thickness. long and short areas of the yarn are detected and categorized according to the severity. Page no. If the resultant value falls under E. it is a long and thick area. C1…denotes the length of the fault. The Uneveness % and hairiness as a sum of total hair lengths are obtained At stages of ring winding. It runs at a speed of 400 m per min. F and G of the graph show thin and long areas. It gives the values in unit of force/ count = g/tex. yarn from 10 packages is tested. while A1.43 www. roving. A2. At a speed of 400m/min. 500 readings are taken each out of 10 packages of one sample.arvindmills.7/16 from china qUALITy Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Long and strong cotton Extra long –very short cotton Long strong cotton Long strong cotton Extra long and extra strong cotton Extra long extra strong cotton Extra long and strong cotton Long strong cotton Long strong cotton Long and very strong cotton Extra long and very srong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton Extra long and very strong cotton CLASSIMATThis instrument tests faults in the yarn. Elongation of the yarn is also measured. B1. In a graph.yarn fault-testing Types of cotton fibers used in Arvind NAME AND PLACE NHH-44 from India Ethel from brazil USI –1/8” from America Shankar-6 (super) from India Bunny Brahma from India MCU-5 from India Karo from west Africa Juli (mali) Bola – s burkina faso Gizza –76 from Egypt Gizza – 45 from Egypt Acala cotton from Sudan Raw cotton from Australia SJV Acala up laud from America Pima from Australia Pima from Israel Pima from America CISELS from Turkmenistan Barakrt from Sudan DCH-32 super from India MCU – 5 from India ELS 1. The thick and thin.com . cone winding etc tests are conducted many times a week to ensure consistency. A1. USTER UNEVENESS TESTERThis tests and reads thick places (+50%). 100 km of yarn can be tested at once. USTER TENSOjETThis is a single yarn strength-testing instrument. . thin places (-50%) and neps (200%). This is inprocess checking TwIST TESTERAccording to the required specifications twist of the yarn is measured in this which involves different methods for single. construction (EPI and PPI). weave. The end usage of the fabric manufactured by Arvind is garments and the buyer of the fabric is basically a garment manufacturer. the hairiness is measured as the number of hairs per unit length for 24 mm. Different apparel manufacturing companies have different types of requirement as per the weight of the fabric (GSM). . These stages summed up together add-on to the final cost of the fabric. count. HAIRINESS TESTEROn the basis of optical principle. percentage of colour usage. finish of the fabric etc. overheads and the Profit margins. So accordingly after considering all these factors including the production cost. length. COSTINg Costing is decided as per several stages from Picking up the fiber to the finishing of the fabric.AfIS (ADVANCED fIbER INfORMATION SySTEM)An in process testing system for detecting neps. the yarn is wound on black or white board according to its own color and analyzed subjectively for slubs.45 www. the entire cost of the fabric depends on all of the above mentioned parameters. ELECTRONIC LEA STRENgTH TESTERThe lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking strength is tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product). micronaire till roving stage. Page no.com . Here. the Price of the fabric is quoted to the apparel manufacturer. wRAP bLOCkIt is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for the next process yARN bOARD wINDERIs done when required.arvindmills. BROOKS. jackets etc.47 www. SCOTCH AND SODA and REPALY. It is market sensitive. and Indian terrain etc. LUCKY JEANS etc. • These trade channels held a very powerful position in the textile distribution Product • Unisex leisure/fashion fabric both for international and domestic market • High quality fabric for men’s formal shirts and bottom both for international and domestic market • Fashion fabric for women primarily for domestic women • Readymade garments for men-shirts and jeans • Wide range of textile products and brands Retail DivisionMainly for domestic market and management process. In domestic brands Arvind targets the customer directly like Louis Philippe. MEXX. They always buy fabric and then make shirts. RMGs are ready made garment converters for export brands. trousers. Promotion • Creating awareness : An initial challenge • Creating customer orientation • Focused on encouraging awareness of denim and high premium garments • Goal of developing long term trusting relationship with patients Price • lower prices in comparison to the competitors due to the availability of low cost domestic cotton and labour EMERgINg SHIfT Of INTERNATIONALgARMENT bUSINESS Reason • Low cost of domestically produced cotton.arvindmills. and sell it to export brands. The department mainly has to see what the final outcome of the product is: • always in touch with internal+ external customers • need to know when to produce what • fashion cycle+ high international margin/ international customers behave in a different way In export Arvind basically sells through buying offices like impulse. They take fabrics from Arvind Ahmedabad and then convert it into ready to wear garments for many brands like GAP. The same thing is done in Arvind export division Bangalore. . li and fung etc or directly and even through RMGs (Ready Made Garments) like Ranger and brfl (Bombay rayon fashions limited) etc. • Low cost of labor • Weak currency Page no. In retail market too Arvind has direct links with middleman or agents or direct fabric selling retailers.com . Colorplus.‡ TRADE CHANNELS • The trade channel comprised of agents and wholesalers which were very slow to change and continued to demand conventional products.MARkETINg AND DISTRIbUTION Marketing Capability factors Marketing capability factors could be segregated into three basics categories: • Product • Promotion • Price DOMESTIC MARkET ENVIRONMENT CONSUMER DEMAND • The consumer in the household sector demanded better quality fabric. ESPRIT. In Arvind like Ranger is supplying to GANT. It struggled financially from the late 1960s until it was purchased by The Limited in 1988 and repositioned. . under the management of Mike Jeffries.arvindmills. in the communities where they carry on business.49 www. Holding the corporate social responsibility(CSR) Arvind runs vocational programs for rural poor of the Khedbrahma taluka of Gujarat’s Sabarkantha district. Hollister Co.SOCIAL RESPONSIbILITy SMALL SCALE PROjECTS bRAND STUDIES Abercrombie & fitch is a American fashion retailer. Arvind . Ruehl and Gilly Hicks (targeting consumers between the ages of 12 to 30). In 1995 Arvind owned the SHARDA (Strategic help alliance for relief to distressed areas) trust to improve physical environment and living conditions of rural areas. • Arvind family is associated with formation of premier management institute of country the Indian Institute of Management (IIM Ahmedabad). • The family is also engaged in Rural Development. • It is also a founding trustee of a Cancer hospital. • At Arvind. monitor. headed by chairman and CEO Michael S. they place the social and environmental responsibilities at the center of our management philosophy and our business. the brand has embarked on international expansion throughout various world markets. With over 300 locations in the United States. • Arvind has established a Blind Men’s Association. minimize and continually reduce the environmental footprint of its operations and offer good working conditions. Page no.com . Abercrombie. as the aspirational “Casual Luxury” lifestyle brand in present form. and among the farmers. The company also operates three off-shoot brands: Abercrombie.. The A&F brand itself focuses on casualwear and accessories for a target consumer ages of 18 through 22. • Arvind has made comprehensive efforts to identify.Education & Social Endeavors • Arvind runs 6 schools. suppliers and other stakeholders with whom we deal. Founded in 1892 in Manhattan by David T. A&F had been an elite outfitter of sporting and excursion goods. 12 colleges and 5 other institutions in Ahmedabad. • Arvind continuously explore ways to foster environmental consciousness and awareness at all levels of the organization. Jeffries. California.com . EDDIE bAUER Eddie Bauer is an outdoor brand that offers signature outerwear. Page no. It was bought by Gap in 1983.banana Republic Banana Republic is an American clothing brand founded by Mel and Patricia Ziegler in 1978 as a travel-themed clothing company. men’s and women’s clothing. The company also provided the military with flight suits. Today the Banana Republic has over 400 retail stores and generates 2. The catalogue featured clothing from striking locales and had narrative stories throughout. All built to one standard—to be the best. the Zieglers also started a mail-order catalogue that became an instant success. gear and accessories. packs. at the request of the United States Army. which became known as the “Bomber Jacket” since it was worn by thousands of World War II (193945) pilots. . In 1942. and clothing as well. and world-class mountaineering gear. The company has over 500 stores located internationally The first Banana Republic storefront was located in Mill Valley. he developed the B-9 Flight Parka. The catalogue’s success allowed the Zieglers to open a second storefront a year later. sleeping bags.4 billion in annual revenue. Approximately four hundred employees worked round-theclock shifts to keep up with the demand. In conjunction with the storefront. Bauer continued to design and experiment with sporting equipment and outerwear.arvindmills.51 www. snowshoes. com . skin care and body care products.000 wholesale locations internationally. The Group operates more than 800 directly managed retail stores worldwide and distributes its products via more than 14. Piperlime and Athleta brand names. children and babies under the Gap. Gap brand includes Gap. women. Old Navy. The company also operates Gap Outlet and Banana Republic Factory Outlet stores Page no.53 www.1 million square metres in more than 40 countries. GapKids. occupying total selling space of over 1. Esprit also operates the Red Earth cosmetic brand which includes cosmetics. Esprit licenses its logo to third-party licensees that offer products bearing the same Esprit quality and essence to consumers.arvindmills. . Banana Republic. babyGap and gapbody. is a leading international specialty retailer offering clothing.Esprit Esprit is an international youthful lifestyle brand offering smart. accessories and personal care products for men. affordable luxury and bringing newness and style to life. gap Inc Gap Inc. Crew sells men’s. The Church of Sweden is a major shareholder in the H&M chain. with net income of $54 million. The first Russian presence was launched in “Metropolis” center in Moscow on march 13th. inexpensive and very fashionable products. Stefan Persson.com . later abbreviated to H&M. Crew J. The second one in march 2009 in “MEGA” mall followed by the October opening in Belaya Dacha “MEGA” mall. though at the time the store only sold women’s clothing and was called Hennes.” In 1968. both of which own and produce other brands in addition to their namesake lines Page no. is a Swedish company. in 1947 by Erling Persson.H&M H&M clothing (H and M standing for Hennes & Mauritz AB). . Accordingly.4B in 2008[1]. 2009. Included in the inventory was a supply of men’s apparel. he renamed the store Hennes & Mauritz. Sweden. H&M was established in Västerås. Swedish for “hers. known for their quality.55 www. the third one in the Shibuya shopping district in September. it was in Ginza followed by another opening in Harajuku in November 2008. The company is in direct competition with Jones Apparel Group (JNY) and Liz Claiborne (LIZ). H&M has more than 2000 stores in 35 different countries and has more than 73. The company produces products with a traditional preppy aesthetic similar to that of Polo Ralph Lauren (RL). H&M has signed an agreement to open its first store in Myungdong in Seoul. Erling’s son.arvindmills. became CEO in 1990 and Chairman of the Board in 1998. Officially. Crew had total revenues of $1. Persson acquired the premises and inventory of a Stockholm hunting equipment store named Mauritz Widforss. prompting Persson to expand into menswear.000 employees. j. In September 2008 H&M opened its first store in Japan. South Korea to open during the spring of 2010. J. women’s and children’s apparel and accessories through North American retail locations as well as catalogs and its website. Europe’s biggest shopping center “Golden Babylon” opened its H&M location in October 2009. versatile white shirt. She prefers clothes that are comfortable yet stylish. At the end of fiscal 2007.j. Inc. Its Distribution Center and Call Center are located in Tilton. shoes and accessories. and Canada Page no. versatile and open to self expression. With a nod to tradition infused with modern flair. Jill is based in Quincy. as well as its fine workmanship. including nine outlet stores. the company is known for legacy items like the perfect blazer. concerned about her community and ageless in her approach to life and style. Established in 1947. India. New Hampshire.. A wholly-owned subsidiary of The Talbots. Jill distributed 25 separate catalogs with an annual circulation of approximately 78 million. Massachusetts. jill J. This customer or guest as J. Talbots offers an array of timeless wardrobe options to flatter women of all shapes and sizes.57 www. J. Additionally. Jill sees her is well educated. The Company currently operates stores in 580 locations in 46 states. J. ballet flats and pearls. and its international liaison office is located in New Delhi.com . Jill operated 271 stores in 39 states. . She approaches fashion with an eye for natural beauty and adaptable function that reflects her confidence and diverse needs. Talbots Talbots is a leading specialty retailer and direct marketer of women’s classic clothing. trustworthy trench. Jill serves the 35+ woman. Jill is a multi-channel specialty retailer of women’s apparel and accessories. J. active. the District of Columbia. gracious service and welcoming red doors. J.arvindmills. Started in 1975. this brand is able to get new products to consumers in about five weeks. Page no. This quick turnaround is the big reason they’ve been able to grow so fast since they began.com . it can take as little as two weeks. The company sells apparel through its own chain of retail outlets in Canada and the United States.arvindmills. which is owned by Spanish businessman Amancio Ortega. and through other retailers. . If they’re just changing an existing style. they’ve been able to spread around the world quickly because of their special approach to clothing manufacturing.59 www. The company operates restaurants attached to some stores that serve tropical themed food as well. The company is owned by Georgia-based Oxford Industries. It recently opened a new bar at Yankee Stadium Zara Zara clothing is a brand under the Inditex Group. Unlike a lot of other online fashion companies.Tommy bahama Tommy Bahama is a Seattle-based manufacturer and licenser of high-end tropicalthemed wear and other clothing and household goods. sport COLLECTIONS SPORTS CASUALS fORMALS www.com .arvindmills. dropping fast . . plaster. time spent together. pure . old photographs.puristic. porcelain. Lost now to love as once they were to life. then. genuine. off loom (180/90) Weave – plain . sporty . those passed. In whom we vested hope in days of strife. Moments of remembrance moor sensations. Client – “zara women swear” Target customer –niche client Market – Indian domestic Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 50s Weft count – 80s comp. Colors – chalky pastels. On shadows shifting gently in the wind. colorless and faded images and walls. simplified lines and structure. Electing in their interests to attend.com . reserved Memories respond to invitations. Construction – on loom ( 156/88) .Memories – clean . No. simplicity . weft white Page no.Again among the trenches. 80% of base has to be colored.Remember to remember.delicate and hazy. of harnesses – 4 Constraints – classic sporty stripes . faded tan and black. key concept – clear . unforgettable moments.arvindmills.63 www. ochre. reed 80/4 . Page no. use of some accent colors as yellows. weft color has to be white only. key concept – uniform . We aim to try to act our age And be for now a bit sane. satin and twill used on certain places. emotive. . tan Client – “A MAHADEVIA” Target customer – upper middle class and niche client Market – Indian domestic Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 2/121 Weft count – 2/121 Construction – on loom ( 80/88) . of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 10 Constraints – classic sporty stripes . tie belt . black. Or slaves set free from toil and pain. . No. classic which conveys certain commitment and discipline.arvindmills. off loom (180/90). white as the ground. When our thoughts turn naturally To vandalism.young and sporty.65 www. use of navy and cobalt blue must. and crime. So just like birds out of a cage. grey . libraries . discipline Graduation is a time. Colors – blue . sex.Our teachers think we’re well prepared To make decisions on our own. school going look. reed space – 67 Weave – plain .com . 80% of base has to be white. turquoise. Now that we at last are free. school going bags and ties .Old school – classic but sporty. old universities. uniform. cobalt blue. One pits oneself against one’s wildest dreams.67 www. all the nautical shades . beach huts smartly painted in sea blue and sandy creams. sailors . what’s at stake is grace.. reed space – 67 Weave – plain . off loom (180/90). sea life. Client – “united colors of Benetton” Target customer –niche client Market – u.arvindmills. off-white . the love that life redeems Upon a field of lovers. Come witness. grays and black.ships. . fresh and clean Win or lose. reed 80/4 . satin and twill used on certain places as dobbies. then. Colors –from soft aqua to deep ultra marine. more than anything. Demanding more of one than an embrace.s. naval force.com . black or blue. red as the ascent tone. use of navy and red as must for ascent color. Page no. think light houses in highly visible red.Nautica – regimental. Relying. key concept – think nautical. on will. dreamers all.. navy blue. Life is far more lustful than it seems. No.a Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 50s Weft count – 50s Construction – on loom ( 80/88) .white as the base. of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 10 Constraints – regimental sporty stripes . 50% of base has to be white. Playing with more passion in our place. merry and fun making. Some losses. 60% of base has to be colored. of harnesses – 4 Constraints – classic sporty stripes . white weft.Years together are not spent in vain. blue red and black are of utmost importance. Page no. fun. mango yellows. Colors – fruity and playful colors.retro Holidays are little more than meals. are worth the gain key concept – inspired by the 1950s and the first holidays abroad.Destined for nouvelle cuisine. capturing the tourist spirit of the early resorts such as Riviera.69 www. exotic. Of course the details differ. A mixture has its own distinct appeals.Riviera – playful. but not much..com . In which the flavors blend quite favorably. Client – “zara women’s wear” Target customer – niche client Market – Europe Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 50s Weft count – 80s comp. Yet such.Long histories have merged into a sea.arvindmills. off loom (180/90) Weave – plain No. Construction – on loom ( 156/88) . sporty . though severe.beach side look. Hot on the heels of the summer . . ” key concept – art and architecture of Monaco. of loom (138/80). Market – U. heraldic. Colors – all dark and mid tones of tan and rust.heritage buildings. Page no. regimental and disciplined.S. muted and saturated earthy tones and off white.arvindmills. merit and rank. reed space – 64. ancient . of loom (138/80). of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 10 Constraints – sporty stripes.the footprints of the past which reflects a lot of folkloric and heraldic deeds. heritage.5 Weave – plain and dobbies No. the heritage buildings .71 www. . reed 80/3/4 . muted and subdued summer tones. the mood in the old forts and buildings of the Monaco chants the stories of the bygone era. grays and black with red as the ascent. past glory.A.Monaco – heraldic . status symbol. reed 120/3 .on loom ( 80/78) .com . bravery. Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 50s Weft count – 50s Construction –on loom ( 120/78) .5 for dobbies . rank and regimental . Client – “united color of Benetton” Target customer – very niche client. reed space – 64. clean .maximum of 4 colors in weft. medieval “The story takes its inspiration from the past era. arvindmills.com .casuals www. mango blue.more or white surface. deck chairs. soft pastels. summer garden party or holiday trip key concept – memories of childhood vacations spent by the seaside.5 Weave – plain .Active relaxatation – lively. cheerful mood. red.75 www. of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 10 Constraints – uneven pattern to get the casual appearance. red space – 64.com .arvindmills. reed 80/3 . conjure up myriad multicolored stripes in bright primaries. satin and twill used on certain places. Page no. parrot greens. helter shelter. candy rocks. wind breakers. bright primaries. No. holiday mood. bright and fruity ascent . . swim shorts. youthful and dynamic. Colors – multi colored. celebration mood. Client – “A MAHADEVIA” Target customer – middle class Market – Indian domestic Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 40s Weft count – 40s Construction – on loom ( 120/74) . greys and even lilacs and browns. of loom (132/76). eye catching. hot breeze . orange as the ascent color. scratching and etching. Sicilians hot . muted and saturated look.77 www. that arrived on a cool wind and dyed the air a dirty gray. sand and desert. Client – “A MAHADEVIA” Target customer – middle class Market – Indian domestic Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 40s Weft count – 40s Construction – on loom ( 120/74) . red space – 64. travelers. . satin and twill used on certain places. like talcum. Colors – all dark and mid tones of red. key concept – hot and windy . road side landscape.com . hard enough to fill the sky with dust but not strongly enough to carry sand.Heat and dust – rustic . of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 10 Constraints – uneven pattern to get the casual appearance.travelers vogue Inspiration – I remember the peculiar fine dust.5 Weave – plain . The Saharan summer wind. desert landscape . tan and grey.arvindmills. of loom (132/76). had been blowing from the northeast since march. No. umbrellas.and Sicilian heat. Page no. muted and saturated tones of yellow and off white. camel safari. sweat and dust .casual.still in my fatigue I carried on carried on and on………………………………………. reed 80/3 . reed space – 68 Weave – plain . No. patterned and textured. of harnesses –4 Constraints – bright checks and the base has to be darker.com .G. Colors – all dark and mid tones of blues.79 www. Highland fling .Scottish. tweed and herringbones. kilts. Client – “A. dirty orange as the ascent color. kilts. Page no. use of indigo on the place of navy blue color. tweed and herringbones. plaid and Scottish checks. muted and saturated tones of blue and off white. reed 96/2 . 2/2 twill overall. ( turkey)” Target customer – niche client Market – turkey Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 30s Weft count – 30s Construction – on loom ( 96/68) . patterned and tex- key concept – British heritage.tured. off loom (106/72).E. .arvindmills. indigo blue as the major base area. com .arvindmills.formals www. pin or regency stripes. .elegant. elegant. superior . key concept – official stripes.83 www. smart .responsible Inspiration . 60% of base has to be blue. shows degree of responsibility.” and To the manor born is an idiom meaning “accustomed as from birth to the ways and demands of being landed gentry. world of business and finance.respectable.arvindmills. Colors – all dark and mid tones of blue . off loom (180/90).manor born – classic style. of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 10 Constraints – classic formal stripes .”To the manner born” is an idiom meaning “from birth accustomed to the behavior expected and therefore able to meet the standards easily.” Manner appears to have the stronger literary section. smart .com .ink blue white and grays Client – “Louis Philippe” Target customer – rich class and niche client Market – Indian domestic brand Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 2/121 Weft count – 2/121 Construction – on loom ( 80/88) . business and finance. sober reliable stripes. reed 80/4 . reed space – 67 Weave – plain . Page no. very sober and even symmetrical stripes. No. satin and twill used on certain places. wine . reed space – 67 Weave – plain . club and parties Inspiration The story Sensual applies to the physical senses or appetites.Sensual . sensual. chocolate browns and navy blue. of harnesses – minimum of 4 and maximum 14 Constraints – club wear Page no. black. sensuous. enigmatic. mysterious. satin and twill . romantic.com . dazzling light. dobbies. No. flashy and showy. flower-filled suite with a crystal chandelier and thick oriental rugs.night music. extravagant. . seductive. particularly those associated with sexual pleasure: Luxurious suggests a surrender to physical comfort leading to a delightful feeling of well-being: stayed in a luxurious.sensuous. off-white and lighter tones of purple as ascent. Voluptuous approach of oneself to pleasures.85 www. luxurious. especially sensual pleasures: key concept – club. reed 80/4 . Colors – all dark and mid tones of purple and violets and magenta . off loom (180/90). voluptuous . Client – “Louis Philippe” Target customer – rich class and niche client Market – Indian domestic Technical specification Fiber content – 100% cotton Warp count – 2/121 Weft count – 2/121 Construction – on loom ( 80/88) .arvindmills. A stripe pattern produced by lines that are as thick as once drawn by pencil.About one or two yarns thickness stripe.It is found on national flags of countries. Hairline stripes:. Pin stripes:. .A pattern of very thin stripes running in parallel found in cloths.arvindmills. fun stripes:.com .These stripes are combination of stripes.Stripes which are woven for the clothes used for the crime and punishment purpose. bretton stripes:.87 www. which has certain meaning to it. with playful arrangement of different widths Classic stripes:.Stripe which are made with a wide combinations of thinner to thicker lines arranged together. This is the thinnest stripes National Ideentity stripes:. Crime and Punishment stripes:. Page no. Narrower than a Bengal stripe but wider than a pin stripe.TyPES Of STRIPES AND CHECkS Types of Stpires:Pencil stripes:.This is horizontal bicolor stripe. Legacy stripes:.Bright multicolored contrasting vertical stripes. Page no. even.Stripes of apparently the same width and alternating light and dark colors. barcode stripes:.The multicolored and multi-width stripes Roman stripes:. which generally have consequent lines along with same bold lines in between.89 www.Regimental stripes:. Bengal stripes are usually wider Awning stripes.A pattern of relatively wide.arvindmills.than candy stripes. . Size comes in between Awning and Bengal stripes. Candy stripes are usually about 1/8” in width and are characterized by solid. Bold stripes on white.A strong.Vertical and even stripes that are wider than Pencil stripes but thinner than Bengal stripes.A stripe pattern with colors originating from British regiments. Awning stripes:. Candy stripes:.com . Neapolitan stripes:. These are broader than Bengal stripes Ticking stripes:.Stripes are of equal width and all different colors. usually vertical stripes of solid color on a lighter ground. Most often used in neckwear. but narrower than Awning stripes. tightly woven fabric of catton or linen used to make pillow and mattress coverings.A stripe pattern consisting of lines of varying width as in a barcode bengal stripes:. evenly coloured thin lines on a usually light ground. . The color effects usually range from lively to startling to bizarre.A symmetrical layout.91 www. Unbalanced stripes:. bayadere stripes:.Thin stripes running both warp and weft directions Ombre stripes:. dedicated to a dancing life from birth. woven or printed design of zigzags in a stripe layout.arvindmills.Types of Checks:balanced stripes:.Brightly coloured stripes of various width laid out horizontly.A woven fabric in which the color is graduated from light to dark and often into stripes of varying shades Pin Checks:. gingham Checks:.Fabrics woven in a block or check effect. also herringbone windowpane Checks:. Tattersall Checks:.A check pattern produced by intersecting pin sized stripes that are one or two yarns thick Page no.A bold check pattern with blocks of 2 to 3 contrasting colors often red and black in a twill weave. buffalo Checks:.A widely spaced check pattern resembling panes in a window. in which coloured bands are arranged around a center.A traditional. shirtings and accessories.A relatively small scale check pattern ( smaller than windowpane ) produced by regularly spaced. Commonly used on suits. It repeats the same pattern on both the right and left of the dominant stripe. An allover pattern of solid color squares made by overlapping stripes of same width Chevron stripes:.Unbalanced stripes do not have a center and are asymmetrical stripes. The name is derived from the bayadere dancing girls of India.com . graph Checks:. It usually consist of one color with white and often resembles the gingham check except that it’s a lot smaller.A popular Scottish district check made of elements of hound’s tooth often with a fine line overplaid in a contrasting color. dressier than larger checks.s Tooth. often in black & white.A pattern of small black and white even checks mainly woven in twill weave burberry Checks:. glen:. but with all kinds of places.A check pattern that originates from uniforms identifying specific Scottish estates. Dog’s Tooth:.Sizes are somewhere between the pin check and the gingham check.e. Different tartans are not associated with different Scottish clans. Famous district check patterns inclide the Glen checks. Princes of Wales.arvindmills. the Benmore.A pattern of small broken or jagged checks created by four pointed stars same as hound’s tooth. it looks the same rotated 90 degree. characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes.It has defined pattern as 3 horizontal and 3+1 vertical line in check. It is woven in a twill pattern of broken checks Page no. the Dupplin. characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes with alternating blocks of 2-on-2 and 4-on-4 colouring Shepherd’s:. it can have different sizes of checks.It gives the effect of ombre i. the Hound. Madras Checks:.com . plaids. associated with Scotland. This pattern is more casual than stripes. A design of brightly colored stripes. Ombre Checks:. India. shaded type of effects are created District Checks:.TyPES Of DISTRICT CHECkS Mini Checks:.Refers to the lightweight yarn dyed woven cotton fabric from Chennai ( formerly madras ) . usually on a plain coloured background Princes of wales:. uneven checks or other design element. Hound’s tooth:.It is a duotone textile pattern.93 www.A subset of plaid. .It is a duotone textile pattern. although others colors are used. A tartan plaid is made of perfect squares. Tartans:. 180 degree etc. the Dog’s tooth and others. the Shepherd. institution and events. www.com .arvindmills. PRASHANT GUPTA TEXTILE DESIGN SEMESTER .7 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY NEW DELHI .