Alok Final Internship Report

SUMMER INDUSTRIAL TRAINING REPORTA Training Report Submitted to the 17/5/1,Village Rakholi,Sayli,Khanvel Road Silvassa, Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli National Institute of Fashion Technology NIFT KANGRA SUBMITTED BY:RISHIKESH KUMAR TEXTILE DESIGNING,SEMESTER-VII 1|Page ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We express our deep sense of gratitude towards Alok family. In the tenure we stayed here, apart from the technical aspect, we have learnt the important aspects that make an organisation work successfully. The working culture of Alok Industries has taught us the need for discipline and dedication to reach high standards, maintaining these during this learning expedition of ours we have been given helping hand by many. We express our sincere thanks to Mr. RINKU NATH, (Sr Manager H.R.& IR ), Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa for granting us the permission to pursue our Summer Industrial Training at their organization. We express our special thanks to Prof. DR. G. K. TYAGI and Mr. ARVIND VASHISHTH (Training & placement officer) for providing us the opportunity to do our Summer Industrial Training at Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa. We want to thank Mr. AKSHESH KARNIK (OFFICER H.R.) ,and all concerned H.O.D Weaving, Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa for their support and help throughout our training period. We extend our sincere thanks to Mr. MANOJ MONDAL (Deputy MANAGER TRAINING & Development), Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa for his valuable suggestions and guidence throughout our tenure. They supported us whole heartedly in performing our activities at their organization and for successful completion of the project. We also thank rest all the executives and non executives of Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa for their valuable support and cooperation. The services of all the employees, especially the technical staffs are hereby acknowledged with thanks. 2|Page TABLE OF CONTENT S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Topic TEXTILE INDUSTRY – A PERSPECTIVE THE GROUP:  MANAGEMENT  MILESTONE PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL RAW MATERIAL DESIGN DEPARTMENT QUALITY ASSURANCE SIZING AUTODRAWING WEAVING DEPARTMENT UTILITY WEAVING MAINTAINCE FOLDING & DISPATCH 3|Page TEXTILE INDUSTRY A PERSPECTIVE The textile mills and products industry comprises establishments that produce yarn, thread, and fabric and also a wide variety of textile products for use by individuals and businesses, but not including apparel. Some of the items made in this industry include household items, such as carpets and rugs, towels, curtains, and sheets; cord and twine; furniture and automotive upholstery; and industrial belts and fire hoses. The process of converting raw fibres into finished non-apparel textile products is complex; thus, most textile mills specialize. In general, there is little overlap between knitting and weaving mills, or among mills that produce cotton and wool fabrics. Textile mills take natural and synthetic fibres, such as cotton and polyester and transform them into yarn, thread, or webbing. Yarns are strands of fibres in a form ready for weaving, knitting, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. They form the basis for most textile production and commonly are made of cotton, wool, or synthetic fibre, such as polyester. Yarns also can be made of thin strips of plastic, paper, or metal. To produce spun yarn, natural fibres, such as cotton and wool, must first be processed to remove impurities and give products the desired texture and durability, as well as other characteristics. After this initial cleaning stage, the fibres are spun into yarn. Knitting is another method of transforming yarn into fabric. Knitting interlocks a series of loops of one or more yarns to form familiar goods, such as sweaters. However, unlike the knitting done with hand held needles, knitting in the textile industry is performed on automated machines. Many consumer items, such as socks and underwear are produced from knitted fabric. At any time during the production process, a number of processes, called finishing, may be performed on the fabric. These processes, which include dyeing, bleaching, and stonewashing, among others, may be performed by the textile mill or at a separate finishing mill. Finishing encompasses chemical or mechanical treatments performed on fibre, yarn, or fabric to improve appearance, texture, or performance. Mechanical finishes can involve brushing, ironing, or other physical treatments used to increase the lustre and feel of textiles. Application of chemical finishes to textiles can impart a variety of properties ranging from decreasing static cling to increasing flame resistance. The most common chemical finishes are those that ease fabric care, such as the permanent press and stain resistant finishes. Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy to textiles and increase product value. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques, and equipment. Most fabrics that are dyed, printed, or finished must first be prepared. In preparation, the mill removes natural impurities or processing chemicals that interfere with dyeing, printing, and finishing. Typical preparation treatments include desizing, scouring, and bleaching. Finally the finished cloth is fabricated into a variety of household and industrial products. Regardless of the process used, mills in the textile industry are rapidly modernising, as new investments in automation and information technology have been made necessary by growing domestic and international competition. Firms also have responded to competition by developing new products and services. For example, some manufacturers are producing textiles developed from fibres made from recycled materials. These innovations have had a wide effect across the industry. Advanced machinery is boosting productivity levels in textiles, costing some workers their jobs, while fundamentally changing 4|Page the nature of work for others. New technology also has led to broad and increasing technical training for workers throughout the industry. The emphasis in the industry continues to shift from mass production to flexible manufacturing, as textile mills aim to supply customized markets. Firms are concentrating on systems that allow small quantities to be produced with minimum leadtime. This flexibility brings consumer goods to retailers significantly faster than before. Information technology allows the retail industry to rapidly assess its needs and communicate them back through the apparel manufacturer to textile firms. Working Conditions Working conditions vary greatly. Production workers, including front line managers and supervisors, spend most of their shift on or near the production floor. Some factories are noisy and can have airborne fibres and odours; but most modern textile facilities are relatively clean, well lit, and ventilated. Various types of protective devices and clothing have greatly reduced accidents like protective shoes, clothing, facemasks, and earplugs. Also, new machinery is designed with additional protection, such as noise shields. Still, many workers in production occupations must stand for long periods while bending over machinery, and noise and dust still are a problem in some plants. Workers are also sometimes exposed to hazardous situations that could produce cuts or minor burns if proper safety practices are not observed. Also, some workers are occasionally exposed to the fumes and odours of coolants and lubricants used in machines. Because many mills run 24 hours a day as the cost of new machinery continues to increase, production workers may work evenings and weekends. Many operators work on rotating schedules, which can cause sleep disorders and other stress from constant changes in work hours. Overtime is common for these workers during periods of peak production. Managerial and administrative support personnel typically work a 5-day, 48-hour week in an office setting, Although some of these employees also may work significant overtime. Quality control inspectors and other workers may need to travel to other production sites, especially if working for large companies. Physical Work Conditions       Always work indoors. Are sometimes exposed to hazardous equipment. There is some possibility of moderate injury. Sometimes wear protective glasses or masks and earplugs. Extruding machine operators may wear protective shoes and clothing when working with certain chemicals. Are sometimes exposed to contaminants. This is more likely for bleaching and dyeing machine operators. Are sometimes exposed to hazardous situations that could produce cuts or minor burns. However, the likelihood of even slight injury is low. Are sometimes exposed to sounds and noise levels that are distracting or uncomfortable. 5|Page Physical Demands People in this career frequently     Use hands to handle, control, or feel objects, tools, or controls. Stand or sit for long periods of time. Repeat the same movements over and over. Bend or twist the body. It is important for people in this career to be able to :          Make quick, precise adjustments to machine controls. Hold the arm and hand in one position or hold the hand steady while moving the arm. Use hands or fingers to grasp, move, or assemble small objects. Make fast, simple, repeated movements of fingers, hands, and wrists. Bend, stretch, twist, or reach out with the body, arms, and / or legs. React quickly using hands, fingers, or feet. Adjust body movements or equipment controls to keep pace with speed changes of moving objects. Use muscles to lift, push, pull, or carry heavy objects. See details of objects that are less than a few feet away. See differences between colours, shades, and brightness. 6|Page It is not as important, but still necessary, for people in this career to be able to             Move two or more limbs together (for example, two arms, two legs, or one leg and one arm) while remaining in one place. Quickly and repeatedly bend, stretch, twist, or reach out with the body, arms, and / or legs. Move arms and legs quickly. Choose quickly and correctly among various movements when responding to different signals. Coordinate movement of several parts of the body, such as arms and legs, while the body is moving. Use stomach and lower back muscles to support the body for long periods without getting tired. Use muscles or be physically active for long periods without getting tired. Use muscles to jump, sprint, or throw objects. Speak clearly so listeners can understand. See details of objects that are more than a few feet away. Determine the distance between objects. Hear sounds and recognize the difference between them. Skills and Abilities People in this career need to Communicate    Read and understand written materials. Understand spoken information by listening to others and asking questions. Express ideas clearly when speaking. Reason and Problem Solve     Follow guidelines to arrange objects or actions in a certain order. Notice when something is wrong or is likely to go wrong. Identify problems and review information. Examine solutions to problems and evaluate their effectiveness. Use Mathematics and Science  Use mathematical skills to solve problems. Manage Oneself, People, Time and Things  Check how well one is learning or doing something. 7|Page Work with Things        Operate and control equipment. Watch gauges, dials, and output to make sure a machine is working properly. Test, inspect, and evaluate the quality of products. Maintain and repair equipment on a routine basis. Determine when and what kind of maintenance is needed. Determine the tools and equipment needed to do a job. Determine the causes of technical problems and find solutions for them. Install or set up equipment to meet specifications. Perceive and Visualize   Imagine how something will look if it is moved around or its parts are rearranged. Quickly and accurately compare letters, numbers, objects, pictures, or patterns. Knowledge People in this career need knowledge in the following areas   Mechanical knowledge of designing, using, and repairing machines and tools. Production and Processing: Knowledge of how products are made and supplied. Occupation in the Industry Textile industry offers jobs in various avenues especially in the production sector. Additional opportunities also exist in material-moving, administrative support, maintenance, repair, management, and professional occupations. The industry also employs a small number of workers in service and sales occupations. Many workers enter the textile industry as machine setters and operators, the largest occupational group in the industry. They are responsible for setting each machine and monitoring its operation. They inspect their machines to determine if they need repairs or adjustments. They may clean and oil their machines, and repair or replace worn parts. Additionally, they must diagnose problems when the machinery stops and restart it as soon as possible, to reduce costly machine idle time. Textile machine setters and operators also install, level, and align components such as gears, chains, dies, cutters, and needles. Textile machine setters and operators thread yarn, thread, or fabric through guides, needles, or rollers. Extruding machine operators load chemicals or wood pulp into their machines. They adjust the controls for proper tension, speed, and heat; for electronically controlled equipment, they program controls or key in 8|Page instructions using a computer keyboard. Operators then start the machines and monitor their operation, observing control panels and gauges to detect problems. Skilled production occupations also include quality control inspectors, who use precision measuring instruments and complex testing equipment to detect product defects, wear, or deviations from specifications. Among installation, maintenance, and repair occupations, industrial machinery mechanics account for a good percentage of industry employment. They inspect machines to make sure they are working properly. They clean, oil, and grease parts and tighten belts on a regular basis. When necessary, they make adjustments or replace worn parts and put the equipment back together. Mechanics are under pressure to fix equipment quickly because breakdowns usually stop or slow production. In addition to making repairs, mechanics help install new machines. They may enter instructions for computer controlled machinery and demonstrate the equipment to machine operators. Plant workers who do not operate or maintain equipment mostly perform a variety of other material-moving tasks. Some drive industrial trucks or tractors to move materials around the plant load and unload trucks and railroad cars, or package products and materials by hand. People in this career perform the following list of tasks, but the tasks are common to many occupations.           Control machines and processes. Monitor events, materials, and surroundings. Handle and move objects. Inspect equipment, structures, or materials. Get information needed to do the job. Identify objects, actions, and events. Communicate with supervisors, peers, or subordinates. Evaluate information against standards. Perform activities that use the whole body. Repair and maintain mechanical equipment. Work Performance     Must be sure that all details are done and their work is exact. Errors could cost the company money because of lost time and materials. Must allow the work pace to be set by the speed of the machinery. Repeat the same physical activities. Must be aware of frequently changing events, such as how much yarn remains on spools Interpersonal Relationships  Have a low level of social contact. They get information from supervisors, but work mainly with machines. Hours/Travel   May work in night and weekend shifts. Many textile and fibre mills operate 24 hours a day. Usually work 48 hours a week. 9|Page THE GROUP Benchmarking global standards in speed, innovation, technology, quality, consistency and punctuality, Alok offers world class integrated textile solutions. Keeping abreast with the international trends in fabrics, fashion and technology. Alok possesses vertically integrated, state-of-the-art production facilities for Home Textiles, Woven and Knitted Apparel Fabrics, Garments and Polyester Yarns. Alok has today emerged as one of India's leading textile groups. Origin and Growth Established in 1986 as a private limited company, Alok began with texturising of yarn and steadily expanded into weaving, knitting, processing, home textiles and readymade garments. Alok also controls an extensive embroidery operation through its sister concern, Grabal Alok Impex Ltd. In 1993, we became a public limited company. Since then we have continued to increase the scale of our operations and the range of our activities. Today, Alok is amongst the A Group listed companies on India's leading stock exchanges. In less than two decades, Alok has grown to become a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles, apparel fabrics, garments and polyester yarns selling directly to manufacturers, exporters, importers, retailers and brands the world over. With the sales turnover of around Rs. 1250 crore in F.Y. 2004-05, Alok is amongst the fastest growing vertically integrated textile companies in India. 10 | P a g e Major Milestones FY 1986 FY 1989 FY 1991 FY 1993 This industry was started named as ALOK TEXTILE PVT. LTD. Setting up manufacturing facilities for Texturising at Silvassa.(1 no. Texturising machine). Commencement of weaving operation at Bhiwandi, District Thane. Cimmco looms are started . Conversion into Public Limited Company and IPO of 22,50,000 equity shares of Rs.10/each for cash at a premium of Rs.10/- each per share aggregating Rs. 450 lakhs to part finance Weaving capacity (50 nos. Cimmco looms) at Bhiwandi and expansion of Texturising capacity (1 no. Texturising machine) at Silvassa. Expansion of weaving capacity (50 Cimmco Looms) at Bhiwandi and texturising capacity (3 nos. Texturising machines) at Silvassa. Turnover of Rs. 50 crores achieved. Financial and Technical collaboration with Grabal, Albert Grabher Gesellshaft mbH & Co of Austria for manufacture of embroidered products through a Joint Venture Co. viz. Grabal Alok Impex Ltd. Setting up of Knitting Division at Silvassa (8 machines) and state-of-the-art eco-friendly Process House at Navi Mumbai (3 Stenter). Turn over of Rs.100 crores achieved. Expansion of Texturising capacity (5 nos. Texturising machines) at Silvassa. Turn over of Rs. 150 crores achieved. Completion of Rights Issue of 74,90,192/- equity shares of Rs.10/- each at a premium of Rs.10/- per share aggregating to R.1498.04 lakhs to part-finance the process house and knitting projects. Modernization and expansion of weaving (24 Sulzer Projectile Looms) at Silvassa. Private placement of 91,42,700/- equity shares of Rs.10/- each at a premium of Rs.7.50 per share aggregating to Rs.1600 lakhs with FIIs. Expansion of weaving (28 Sulzer Projectile Looms) and knitting capacities (20 machines) at Silvassa. Turn over of Rs. 250 crores achieved. Turnover surpasses Rs. 350 crores. Undertaken expansion of weaving and processing capacities under TUFS at an aggregate cost of Rs.190 crores. Foray into the domestic ready-made Garments sector (OWL Brand). Rights Issue of 56,70,098/- FCDS of Rs.90/- each aggregating to Rs.51.03 crores to partfinance the weaving and processing projects. Completion of Modernisation and Expansion of weaving project (88 Air Jet / Rapier Sulzer Looms) at Silvassa. Expansion of knitting capacities (28 machines) at Silvassa. Turnover surpasses Rs. 550 crores. “Export Trading House” Status awarded. FY 1994 FY 1995 FY 1996 FY 1997 FY 1998 FY 1999 FY 2000 FY 2001 FY 2002 FY 2003 11 | P a g e Completion of Modernisation and Expansion of processing project at Vapi. (2 Stenters). Expansion of Texturising Capacity at Silvassa (10 machines). Setting Up of Garment Unit at Navi Mumbai (100 stitching machines). Turnover Surpasses Rs. 750 Crores. Turnover surpasses Rs.1000 crores. (Exports exceeded Rs.100 crores). Expansion of Texturising Capacity at Silvassa (30 machines). Expansion of Knitting Capacity at Silvassa (40 machines). Expansion of Weaving Capacity at Silvassa (170 Airjet / Rapier Looms). Foray in to Home Textiles (Bed Sheets) for Direct Exports. Concluded Mezzanine Finance Transaction of Rs.101 crores (Rs.68 crores Redeemable Preference Shares and 33 crores warrants) arranged by CLSA. Preferential allotment of 538890 Equity shares of Rs.10/- each at premium of Rs.55.67 to Body Corporate. Completed FCCB issued of USD 35 mn (Rs. 153 crores) comprising of 1400 Bonds of USD 25000 each. Out of these bonds, 1380 bonds have been converted into 31870334 equity shares of Rs. 10/- each at an average price of Rs. 49.68 per share. The proceeds of the issue are used for augmenting long term margin for working capital, repayment of debt and normal capex. Preferential allotment of 11311400 Equity shares of Rs.10/- each at premium of Rs.51/per share (promoters 5573700 and IL&FS 5737700) aggregating to Rs. 69 crores. The proceeds of the same are used to part finance the expansion programme of the Company. Conversion of 14,50,000 OFCDs (part) issued to LIC into 2604634 equity shares of Rs. 10/- each at a premium of Rs.45.67 per share. Exports exceeded Rs. 300 crores. Expansion of Weaving Capacity at Silvassa (170 Airjet / Rapier Looms). Texprocil Silver Trophy for 2nd Highest export award in the Manufacturer Exporter – Made ups Category. Completed FCCB issue of USD 70 mn about Rs. 306.25 crores (Assumed price 1 USD=43.75) in May and June 2005. Conversion of balance 14,50,000 OFCDs issued to LIC into 2604634 equity shares of Rs. 10/- each at a premium of Rs.45.67 per share in June 2005. Conversion of 5966400 warrants into 5966400 equity shares of Rs. 10 each for cash at a premium of Rs. 45.67 per share by Niraj Realtors & Shares Pvt. Ltd. (purchased from TAD (Mauritius) Ltd.) in the month of August 2005. Completion of wider width weaving and processing under Rs. 1070 crores project in October 2005. Completion of new plant for processing of knitted fabric at Vapi and POY plant at Silvassa. FY2009 FY2010 completion of POY-2 unit turn over- 4317 crore.. Completion of FDY unit. Added Terry Towels to its product range FY 2004 FY 2005 FY 2006 12 | P a g e FY2011 Completion of unit 9A,B,C&D. Setting up of unit 9E and under construction Unit 10. Turn over- 6367 crore. Export- 2206 crore. PAT – 376 crore. FY2012 Sales: 8900 crores TARGET TILL FY2017 TURNOVER OF 18000 crores. 13 | P a g e INFRASTRUCTRURE From yarn dyeing to fabric designing, sampling, texturising, circular knitting, weaving, processing, embroidery, garment production, and testing… Alok is fully geared for innovation and product developments… manufacturing and quality assurance. Spread over 6 locations in Navi Mumbai, Vapi and Silvassa, our major plants are backed by 100% captive power, global standard effluent treatment units, high standard facilities for our manufacturing, product development and marketing teams, enabling us meet our customers' expectations in terms of precision, quality, in-time delivery, environmental and social concerns. Total Quality Assurance A huge investment in our sophisticated, ISO 9001:2008 compliant world-class testing lab is the reflection of Alok’s commitment, confidence as well as philosophy towards maintaining global standards. Passionate Quality Management has endeared Alok to its highly demanding customers. We have empowered ourselves with one of the finest in-house textile testing laboratories in India, equipped with the world’s best testing equipment from Datacolour Macbeth, Werner Mathis and James Heal. Right from the inputs like yarn, dyestuffs and chemicals, every batch of fabric is tested for weaving and knitting standards, colour fastness under different conditions, strength, consistency, and all pre-defined parameters of our own and of course, our customers. Weaving New generation CAD systems, high technology preparatory, advanced Sulzer shuttleless rapier and Toyoda airjet looms to weave 102.70 million meters of most complex woven, dobby and jacquard designs is our major strength. We can handle a diverse range of woven fabrics- from yarn counts between ne 6's to 140's , widths from 117 cms. to 340cms and weights from 70 to 500 gsm. Alok meets the ASTM standard under the stringent American 4 point system for all its weaving Alok offers a wide range of fashion and functional fabrics- from shirtings, dress materials, voiles, cambrics, poplins, crepes, georgettes, gauze, stretch fabrics, fil-a-fils, oxfords, chambrays, ginghams, flannels, yarn dyed stripes/checks, herringbones, tussores and all types of structured fabrics in 100 % cotton/polyester/viscose/Acrylic and blends. For high performance cotton and cotton blended bottom wear, Alok offers world class canvas, twills, satins and chinos. Knitting Knitting is yet another major strength of Alok. From single jersey, interlocks & ribs to high fashion jacquards and terrys, from pique to autostripes, polar fleece and velour, Alok offers a very comprehensive and high fashion range of knitted fabrics in 100% cotton, polyester, viscose, Lycra®, lurex,and their blends. 214 sophisticated circular knitting machines, largely from Mayer & Cie, Germany are used to produce around 16,800 tons of knitted fabrics annually in a variety of tubular widths, and structures for a range of knitwear applications. 14 | P a g e MANAGEMENT Board of Directors  Shri Ashok Bhai Jiwrajka - Executive Chairman with 29 years of experience in the marketing of textiles.  Shri Dilip Bhai Jiwrajka - Managing Director with 25 years of experience in the manufacturing and trading of fabric for the garment industry. Shri Surendra Bhai Jiwrajka - Jt. Managing Director with 23 years of experience in the trading and manufacturing of yarn.  15 | P a g e ENVIRONMENT, HEALTH AND SAFETY DEPARMENT ENVIRONMENT, HEALTH AND SAFETY POLICY Alok Industries Limited recognizes the importance of managing effectively and seeking continuous improvement in health, safety and environmental matters as an integral part of its business activities. It has been our continuous endeavor to provide an environment, which ensures health, safe working conditions and safe practices. We are committed to:           Prevention and control of land, air, water and noise pollution Conservation of natural resources. Developing green zones in and around our plants and offices. Compliance with applicable environmental laws, rules and regulations Prevention of Child Labour Reduction in waste generation and its proper disposal. Providing a safe and healthy environment at the workplace for employees and visitors. Inculcate awareness among all employees, contractors and visitors regarding health, safety and environment. Achieving ISO 14001 and OHSAS 18001 standards for our organisation. Achieving world-wide best practices in health, safety and environmental management and recognition as leaders in these areas in the Indian textile industry. External reporting of our health, safety and environmental performance. IMS (Integrated Management System )POLICY We, Alok Industries Ltd. are committed towards.  Serving our customer to their satisfaction by effecting reliable supply of product at most competitive prices and meeting social objectives and other specified requirements through integrated management system.  Constantly improving product quality, environmental performance, work environment and services by up-gradation of skill, knowledge and technology through employee education & involvement.  Ensuring a healthy and safe environment in and around our manufacturing plants complying with all applicable legal and other requirement related to safety, health, environment, Social and quality aspects by setting and reviewing quality, environment, health and safety objectives toward continual improvement.  Enhancing corporate social responsibility by making earnest endeavors to prevent environmental pollution, reduce occupational health hazards, minimize waste and optimize use of natural resources. IMS include four process:1. 2. 3. 4. ISO 9001:2008 :- Quality management system (QMS) ISO 14001:2004 :- Environmental Management System(EMS) OHSAS 18001:2007:- Occupational health & safety assessment SA 8000:2008 :- Social accountability / social compliance 16 | P a g e P.P.C. DEPARTMENT The functions of the P.P.C Department are detailed and are involved at each and every stage right from the placement of the order to the dispatch of the final product. Steps involved are as follows:      The customer places the order with the Marketing Department, located at the Head Office in Mumbai. Marketing Department passes it on to the P.P.C Department for checking the feasibility of the production with the help of Q.A and Design Department. The fabric swatch is viewed, no. of yarns, EPI, PPI is calculated, checking of loom and reed availability (according to the fabric quality) is done. Then the Sort order/Work Order plan is made which specifies the commitment dates of production and dispatch to the Marketing Department. If the order is accepted, a copy of sort order plan is also given to the Production Department to assist them in meeting the required deadlines. PPC department sends seven copies of this to different departments. A Work Order consists if the warp count, weft count, reed, EPI, PPI, etc. The delivery date of the product of regular quality (grey fabric) is 25 days and for dyed fabric is 45 days. Work Order also consists of the execution date along with the commitment dates which are to be met at all stages of warping, sizing and weaving. The P.P.C does both Micro as well as Macro planning, for the efficient functioning of the department and thus the whole factory. P.P.C Micro Planning Macro Planning Day-to-day Planning Priority Execution Dates Yarn Requirement in one month Loom plan Dispatch and Completion. Commitment Dates to Marketing H.O. 17 | P a g e 18 | P a g e Normal Width Identification Table of Alok Industries    To identify the qualities and quantities, a prescribed nomenclature is given by the Head Office. It is a 5-digit number, where the first digit tells the type followed by the quality no. The Work Order is made on an Oracle based system, which is a plan including information such as reed, dents in the reed, epi, ppi, weave, reed space, yarn consumption etc. Stockport Reed Count is the no. of dents per 2 inches. A noticeable fact is that after weaving the fabric contracts as weft pulls te warp yarns, thus reed space is always kept a bit more than the fabric width. Fabric Type Cotton warp and weft Viscose (can be warp or weft)100% or blended Polyester, CVC Organic Cotton Yarn Dyed Fabric (mix up) Silk Yarn dyed (organic cotton) Lenin, cotton, polyester Yarn dyed for higher RKM (as 24 rkm)  Sort No. 10001 to 19999 20000 to 29999 30000 to 39999 40000 to 49999 50000 to 59999 60000 to 69999 70000 to 79999 80000 to 89999 90000 to 99999 WORKFLOW IN P.P.C DEPARTMENT     Swatches of the required finished product are given by the customer, in the form of a fabric swatch or in a CAD Format. Sometimes, yardages are made, these are small quantities used for sampling. A yardage can also be made on a handloom, to check the performance of a odd yarn or a complex weave before weaving for bulk production. The order given to the marketing department goes to the Quality Assurance to check the construction and type of the required finished product. The next level is the Designing Department, which analyses the shaft, reed and weave and make a draft plan, which is sent for sampling. 19 | P a g e   A sample is made to verify whether the weft and the warp pattern, drafting, peg plan is of the required type or not. Once the sample is approved, bulk production is started. A noticeable reduction is there in the width after the fabric is made out of the warp beam. Thus, some extra amount of warps is there. Hence, we concluded P.P.C is the mouth-piece of Management  Sampling- It is done in 2 forms:(a) Desk Loom Development- It is a 6” x 6” prepared sample at the first level of production. (b) Once a desk loom is approved, Yardages are made which is 35 mts. of the fabric for the required width.     Finally, as per the order of the Marketing Department, a work order is prepared with all the details and identification numbers, taking into consideration the construction, weave, EPI,PPI, order quantity (in mts.) This work order comes to the P.P.C Department, which in turn passes the yarn requirement information to the Raw Materials Department. They place an order to the Procurement Department, as per the quantity of dispatch product. Yarn Dyed- Especially for Yarn Dyed fabric production details are also taken from Designing Department, which identifies the fabric on the scale of shade and quality. Loom Plan- It is a program which is sent to the Loom Shed, Preparatory Department for the processes of warping and sizing and Folding Department, mentioning the dates of completion, delivery and dispatch. Production is monitored at each stage, by the P.P.C Department. It issues mainly 3 details:o Pattern Card- A computerized version of the required weave, to assist visually, the appearance of the final product. o Draft Plan- Giving the drawing sequence or lifting of warp yarns in the Heald Frames. o Order- A proper plan to describe the process flow within the time constraints. Points to be taken into consideration before Production:(a) For grey fabric 10% extra manufacturing is done, whereas for yarn dyed it is 13%. For Jacquard Looms, situated at Dadra, 10% extra is kept. For e.gSORT NO. 5001 40 Wp 40 Wf 132 EPI 72 PPI WEAVE 63” WIDTH 2/1TWILL Therefore, Total number of ends= 132 X 63= 8316 (required number of ends) Reed count = Number of dents per 2” = 86 20 | P a g e Thus, Number of dents in 1” = 86/2 = 43 Ends per dent = 3 And, Thus,  43 X 3 = 129 Reed Space = 8316/129 = 64 Cover Factor- It is the air space between 2 ends and is given by EPI + PPI (WpCT)1/2 (WfCT)1/2 VCT is count for warp and weft for EPI and PPI respectively. The cover factor can be a maximum of Loom cover for the feasibility of fabric production.           Yarn Dyed- The design can be obtained in 3 forms, i.e- CAD, Fabric Cutting, Count Construction (with information of Warp, Weft, Reed, ppi etc.) Yarn dying takes place at the Vapi Processing Plant and it is transported 7 days after the placement of the order. The next step is to check the feasibility of the design construction. 2 types of warp or double beam can also be used with two different finer or coarser yarns,less count is taken at the top. The work flow is same as of normal or wider width, i.e- sampling, sales order, then finally production program with details of customer, quality, quantity in mts., count & construction, and delivery dates. Production Program is given to the Raw Materials Department, which decided kg wise consumption in cones, then warping, szing and rearrangement of cones takes place. It is to be noted that for yarn dyed beam to beam sizing is done which is unlike grey fabric. Drawing Department decides Healds as per the sample given. Once a sample is prepared, it is given to the Folding Department for inspection. After 100% checking and verification, the loom starts working and does not stop until the whole beam or the production order is complete. Finally, it is delivered to the Vapi Plant for processing.. A daily status report of every procedure and process is given to the Marketing Department as well as the customer. WIDER WIDTH For wider width at the selvedge portion yarn density more than at middle so we reduce one end from each dent in1.2”. But it will reduce reed space so we have to increase reed space. For example 21 | P a g e REED WIDTH EPI 133” No. of ends=133*185=24700 Ends per one inch reed width= 80*5/2=200 Reed space=24700/200=124” Total selvedge width=1.2’’ No of dents in 1.2” =40*1.2=48 PPI 185 REEDCOUNT 132 80/5 Instead of 5 ends/dent we pass 4 end/dent in 48 dents No of ends reduced =48 Fabric width reduced=48/200=0.24 inch We require reed space=124+.24=124.24 22 | P a g e GREY YARN RAW MATERIAL WARPING SIZING DRAWING IN LOOM SHED INSPECTION FOLDING DISPATCH PROCESSING YARN DYED RAW MATERIAL REWINDING DYEING DRYING REWINDING SECTION WARPING SIZING DRAWING-IN LOOM SHED INSPECTION FOLDING DISPATCH 23 | P a g e RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT OBJECTIVE The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the plant. The main objectives of raw department are storing ,issuing, reconsilation of raw material intented for manufacturing SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE Work takes place in the following systematic order:1. 2. 3. 4. 5. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at Peninsula Towers, Lower Parel, Mumbai for Alok Industries. The customer specifies its requirements in the order. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by the Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment Department (PPC). The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the characteristics of the yarn required. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw Materials Department. ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT 1. 2. 3. It receives the material, which is ordered by production department. It issues the required material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it to the seller end CAPACITY OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT The textile industry is based on raw material capacity, which costs from 70 to 80% of industry capacity is about 1250 tons. cost. Its MATERIAL PURCHASE 24 | P a g e A raised Indent is prepared, which specifies all the yarn requirements, for eg- quantity of yarn, type of yarn(puma, organic, carded, combed) 2. The Indent is sent to the Marketing and Purchase Department which then places an order for the procurement of the yarn. 1.               Alok Industries procures the yarn most from all parts of India and also from Pakistan, China, and Vietnam. Vardhman Auro Spinning Gini Filaments R.M Mohite Textiles Abhishek Industries Ambica Arun tex Ramalinga spinners Rajasthan spinning mills STI India Nahar Industries Arisht spinning mill Nitin spinning mill DESGIN DEPARTMENT 25 | P a g e The objective of this department is to prepare a pattern for the weaving process to achieve the desired effect and look on the fabric as per the buyer s specification. The department receives the specifications from the marketing dept after which sampling is done and samples are sent for approval, approved designs then go further for production. The department performs the following works:1. Designing of the product 2. Analysis & feasibility of product 3. Preparation of bill of materials required for preparing the product The various Qualities or types of towels developed are: Piece dyed towels(grey towels)  Yarn dyed towels  Yarn dyed and grey velour towels(cut pile)  Yarn dyed and grey partial velour towels(partial cut pile) Cad software’s used for weave design developments are:  Textronics design dobby for development of dobby designs Net graphics texcelle for developing jacquard design QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT 26 | P a g e The function of quality assurance department is to control the manufacturing process against the standard of the company or as directed by the buyer been conveyed through PPC. The QA department keeps on updating the PPC and management about the progress of the order right from raw material department to dispatch. SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE When the raw material is received to the raw material department they send the sample cones to the QA department for approval. Sample Approving Criteria Order Quantity (in kgs.) 0-100 100-1000 1000-4000 More than 4000 The cones are randomly selected and inspected Visual Inspection The visual inspection of each cone or package is done. The cones are inspected for: No tail end No. of Cones sent for QA 2 5 10 15 Ribboning- Yarns should not stick to each other, when wound Soft Cone- If the yarns are not twisted properly the cone formed is slack. Transport- During transportation, the cones get damaged and cannot be approved. Cone Weight- If the specified weight is less or more than the actual weight. INSTRUMENTS: 27 | P a g e 1. ELECTRONIC WEIGHING MACHINE A circular metal circle attached to a handle of 10cm. radius is used to cut standard size samples to check the GSM (Grams per Square Meter). The sample is then weighed on the machine, which is highly sensitive. This gives an idea of the weight and fineness of the fabric. Range of weight -50gm to20kg 2.WRAP REEL Company- Texlab Model No.- 2-2001 A carrier is present, having 5 rows and 6 columns, which carries lea from various cones. The cones (max. 10), which are to be tested are mounted on bars and the yarns from the cones passes through the guides and gets wound on a circular frame. Radius of the frame is approx. 21cm. The frame is revolved 80 times, a scale denotes the no. of revolutions. 80 revolutions leads to the winding of 120 yards of yarn. If the count of the yarn is finer, then the lea is smaller but if the yarn is coarser in nature, then the lea is bigger. If there are 15 cones, then from each cone 2 samples are taken No. of Cones 15 10 5 2 Revolutions 2 3 3 3 Total Revolutions 30 30 15 6 3. CONDITIONING CHAMBER This is used for standardizing the physical properties if the yarns which can get affected by the temperature, pressure and humidity. The leas are kept in a chamber for minimum 4 hours under the following conditions:- Room Temperature 27 ± 2° C 28 | P a g e Relative Humidity Air Pressure 4. C.S.P. SYSTEMS 65 ± 2% 250 This is known as the Count Strength Product. It checks the strength of the lea and in turn of individual yarns. It has an apparatus with 2 clamps. One at the top(stationary) and the other at the bottom (movable) The lea is hung from the clamps, then the bottom hook is pulled down, thus applying breaking load. The bottom hook is made to move a particular distance, which is predefined and then it is observed how many yarns are broken. The entire arrangement is controlled by a micro processor in which the standard requirements are fed. The software used in this is Lab data V2.2 5. SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TESTER This is to check the strength of a single yarn from a particular cone. In this, unlike the CSP System, the top clamp is movable and the bottom is kept stationary. The make of the machine is Statex Tensotate Junior.Gauge length-500mm 6. ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER This is an automatic machine and it also has a microprocessor attached to it. It is to check the twist of the yarn. The tester untwists the yarn and twists again to check in whatever unit chosen, the twist of the yarn. The parameters which are fed in the tester are: 1. Sample number. 2. Twist direction. 3. Standard tpi (twist per inch). 4. Ply/Filament. 5. Preset count. 6. Length Unit. The length of the yarn that is fed into the machine is 20’’. 7. YARN BOARD WINDER It is used to test the yarn evenness. The company to which the machine belongs Autoboard, Paramount Instrument Pvt Ltd. The yarns are twisted on a black board and the yarns are manually checked. 8. USTER TESTER 5 This apparatus is used for measuring the mass variation of the sliver, roving and yarn. U%, cv%, thin places, thick places and neps can be mearured by this tester. 29 | P a g e 9. USTER TENSOJET This apparatus is used for measuring the RKM, SYS. Testing speed of this instrument is 100-400 m/min. Breaking force, elongation% and tenacity can be measured. 10. USTER CLASSIMATE QUANTUM This apparatus is used for measuring the thick places, thin places and the neps. Testing speed of this instrument is 400-800 m/min.RJK rewinding machine is used for sample preparation,it has 12 spindles. After the inspection, it is decided whether the cones sent are of optimum quality or not. As the unloading of the entire lot is done at the same time, before it is approved, so if the Q.A Department rejects the cone, the Company intimates the supplier and they return the entire consignment. Once the yarns have been approved, the GRN (Goods Received Note) is made by the department. 11. ELMATEAR TEAR TESTER This instrument is used to measure fabric tear strength.The sample is preconditioned for 4 hours .This m/c is supplied with a suite of 4 pendulum,A:8N,B:16N,C:32N,D:64N.Specimen size is 100x63mm-mm and tear length is 43mm. 12. FABRIC TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER This instrument is used to measure the tensile strength of the fabric.Specimen size is taken as 25x10cmcm.The specimen must break within 20+/-3 sec PREPARTORY DEPARTMENT This is a department where the warp yarns are prepared for weaving department by WARPING and SIZING. 1. Warping 2. Sizing WARPING OBJECTIVE The object of warping is to collect a no of warp ends from a creel and to wind them in a sheet form on the double flanged warper beam in such a manner that the threads are parallel to each other. 30 | P a g e Warping is very important for the subsequent processes. Successful sizing and weaving is largely influenced by the quality of warping. Faulty warping would cause broken ends, bad selvedges etc, which inturn produce the substandard cloth. So it is very necessary that warping should in a precise manner. There are two type of warping 1. DIRECT 2. SECTIONAL DIRECT WARPING This type of warping is done for grey yarns. In this process the yarns are transferred from cones beam. This is done as it fulfills the requirements of large number of ends. to direct It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single colour yarns and simple patterns of coloured yarns. It can be used to make warpsheets. The total amount of coloured yarns involved is less than 15% of the total. 31 | P a g e Warping Raw material Opening of cartons Creeling Denting Loading of empty beam Setting of information in the panel (no of ends, count, required length, sort no, pressure, speed) Tying up of ends on beam Starting of machine Machine is stopped after the completion of required length on one beam Ends are cut Unloading of full beam After the completion of no. beams,creel ends are cut at the creel Sort no. is written on beam, packing of beam 32 | P a g e PLANNING OF PROGRAM Customer raises his requirement in term of fabric length and width. P.P.C department find out the reed width, reedspace, no of ends for construction that particular fabric. Then, no of beam are finded out according to creel capacity of warping machine. For example Total no of ends=17820 Creel capacity=1088 No. of beams=17820/1088=16.37 No. of the end left =412 So we take such a combination that every beam contain equal no of ends. As, 17820/18=990 ends According, to the length required on the sizing beam we set the length on the warper beam, taking consideration of waste and 2% CV 80 count — 3000 mts. 60 count— 2500 mts. 2000mts. 30, 40, 50 count — 10, 20 count — 1500mts. The quantity of cones is received by the preparatory department according to the order placed by the P.P.C. through raw material department This order depends on the customer’s demand. In Alok Industries there are eight BEN-DIRECT warping machine. These machines have LCD screens that give us information about – 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Actual length Tangent length Beam width Speed of the beam Time Quantity The width of the warp beam is 2200 mm. it is fixed. This is also called the distance between the two flanges. Creel capacity of six BEN-DIRECT is 1088, two having 630 creel capacity. Maximum speed of BEN-DIRECT is1200 mpm 33 | P a g e In Alok Ind., we have chain creel having following features: 1. V- Shaped 2. There are two supply package one full (reserve) and other running for each end. 3. Equipped electric warp stop motion. 4. Gate type tensioners are used. 5. There is cutter to cut the ends after creel completion. 6. There is provision of compressed air for cleaning of the creel and warping m/c. headstock. The cone on the creel supply yarns to the beam while passing through sensor holes that are connected to the LED start blinking when the yarn breaks. Then these yarns are passed through expanding combs. One yarn passes through two combs. These combs help in maintaining the tension between the yarns and also maintain difference between the two yarns. The speed on the machine is very high. Warping speed COUNT 16, 20, 30, 40, upto 50s 60, 80s The beam density is 550 gm/dm3. Sn. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 MAKE Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Benniger Ben Direct Karlmayer BenDirect Karlmayer BenDirect Karlmayer BenDirect Karlmayer BenDirect Karlmayer BenDirect 09/05/2011 10/05/2001 12/05/2011 YEAR 9/11/2005 5/01/2006 16/12/2005 20/03/2004 17/12/2005 18/12/2005 03/03/2008 09/01/2001 SPEED 900 mt/min 700 mt/min CREEL CAPACITY 1088 1088 1088 1088 1088 1088 1088 630 680 680 1224 1224 1224 MAX. SPEED 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1200mt/min 1100mt/min 1100mt/min 1100mt/min HEADSTOCK:34 | P a g e Expanding Comb: To adjust the width of the warp sheet according to the width of the warpers beam between the flanges. Dents are arranged in groups of 8 in the ascending order of height, shorter one correspond to the bottom cone as the distance of cone increases from the headstock, the angle of deflection increases to make all the yarns parallel and to avoid the crossing ends . There is a guard that covers the functional area of the machine. It is made up of fiber glass and is used to guard the operator from injuries caused by broken cones, flying fluffs, etc. 1. Net weight/cone.e.g-2/105 – this means the yarn is doubled 105 yarns-52.5 yarns The yarn length per cone depends upon count e.g- 5 cones (wt)<>=1.04 Paper cone weight: 0.05gms: fixed Gross weight- Paper cone weight = actual yarn weight in each cone =A A X 1693 = to convert kg in length = B B X Count = length of yarn in one cone. DRIVE:Beam is driven through the frictional contact with the drum rotating at a constant speed. The length of drum is such that it will just fit between the flanges of the warper beam. COUNT 80s, 60s 30s, 40s, 50s 10s,20s DRUM PRESSURE 250daN/cm2 300 to 350 daN/cm2 400 to 450 daN/cm2 SECTIONAL WARPING 35 | P a g e This type of warping is done for dyed yarns. In this process the yarns are transferred from cones to a drum and from that to a beam. This is done as it fulfills the requirements of large number of ends. There is a reed present before the warping cylinder where the adjustment of the section width is done. The shape of the reed increases or decreases the sectional width. The LCD screen on the sectional warping machines indicated the following: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. sort number count length total ends ends/creel shade number The warping drum or cylinder is mounted on the movable apparatus. It is funnel shaped. It rotates in the clockwise direction. It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics where the amount of coloured yarn is more than 15% of the total. Sectional warping is a quick way to warp a loom with a sectional warp beam and is best suited for very long warps (15 yards or more), any size or style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional warp beam are 2" wide). PLANNING OF PROGRAM The designer sends a pattern chart, which contains total no of ends required, colours and the whole pattern. According to that chart the creeling is done starting from back of left hand side to the other end of the creel. PROCEDURE After the creeling all ends are drawn through the lease reed, section reed and then to the drum. According to the section width and space of one dent, no of ends per dent is decided for the particular section. No. of dents required =section width \ space of one dent Ends\dent = total no. of ends in a section \no of dents required The next layer will be slightly displaced position. The traversing of drum is done for this purpose Traverse of drum per section = height of section / tan A 36 | P a g e Fig. – PASSAGE OF YARN ON PRASHANT GAMATEX SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE 37 | P a g e Angle A is fixing for the machine. This is also known as pitch count factor. It should be around 0.65, greater than this will create tension variation during the winding. S. no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Make Bentronic Bentronic Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Prashant Gamma Tex Creel Capacity 720 720 576 960 960 672 672 672 960 960 672 672 Max. Speed 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 800 mt/min 38 | P a g e PASSAGE OF SECTIONAL WARPING CREEL LEASING REED DENTING REED TRAVERSE DRUM BEAM COUNT 16s to 40s Above 40s SPEED 500 mt/min 400 mt/min Warping speed Robotic sectional warping machine:S. no. 1 2 Make Prashant Gamma Tex Benniger versomat year 2011 2011 Creel capacity 480 480 Speed 800 mt/min 800 mt/min FEATURES: · Separate warping & beaming structure 39 | P a g e · Hydraulic Disc Brakes · Constant Beaming Tension · Digital / Graphic On Line Display for desired process data · Solid steel drum - Dynamically balanced. · Frequency variable A/C drives · Hydraulic doffing & donning device · Auto section advancing · Constant warping and beaming speed · Lost end memory & auto stop during beaming · On Site Programming Facility · Individually Controlled Tensioner Type model 42 After all the sections of a required length are wound on the drum, beaming is done. In beaming process all the ends are drawn together onto the warper‘s beam. Beaming speed is kept slow to avoid breakage. Generally it is 80+/-10 mts/min. Leasing stripes are inserted in between the section to separate the ends. Machine specification There are eight machines of this purpose. Among these five of them are Indian whose manufacturers are Prashant Gamatex two having 960 creel capacity and three having 672. Two of them is of BenTronic having 720 creel capacity.One Versomat m/c having creel capacity of 480. These machines don’t have any glass cover. The width of the warp beam is not fixed. These creels have ceramic guides. The arrangement of pins on the creel is in the multiple of six in Ben Direct and five in Gamatex. It takes only 30 sec. for mending. The minimum width of section that can be made on Versomat is 25.4mm. USES: Shirting, Bed sheets, Hankerchiefs, etc. SIZING This is the process of increasing the quality of warping yarns to withstand the pressure during weaving. This is done by passing the warp yarns through a solution and then it is dried and heat set. The main purpose of sizing is to improve strength and abrasion resistance of the warp yarns by causing the fibres to adhere together to make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction where they rub together various parts in the weaving process. Sizing is of two type 40 | P a g e 1. Creel to beam 2. Beam to beam Creel to Beam : In this type of sizing machine is used for grey type of yarn. In this many beam of grey yarn is put on creel then sized together after it wind on one beam. For example :If we want to make a beam of total no. of ends=17820 Then procedure will be Creel capacity=1088 No. of beams=17820/1088=16.37 No. of the end left =412 So we take such a combination that every beam contain equal no of ends. As, 17820/18=990 ends in one beam And 18 beam are made by direct warping And then these 18 beam are held one same creel and sized and wound on same beam by this we get beam of 17820 ends. Beam to Beam : In this type of sizing machine is used for dye type of yarn. In this one weaver’s beam made by section warping sized after it wind on one beam. MACHINE DETAIL SL.NO 1 2 3 4 MODEL BENSIZETEC BENSIZETEC BENSIZETEC BENSIZETEC MAKE BENINGER BENINGER BENINGER BENINGER YEAR 2001 2004 2003 2003 CREEL 16+1 24 24 24 41 | P a g e 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 BENSIZETEC BENSIZETEC BENSIZETEC BENSIZETEC PRASHANT GAMATEX ROTAL ROTAL SIZEOMATIC SIZEOMATIC BENINGER BENINGER BENINGER BENINGER GAMATEX KARL MAYER KARL MAYER KARL MAYER KARL MAYER 2005 2008 2005 2007 2007 2010 2011 2011 24 28 24 1 1 1 20 28+28 28+28 TECHNICAL DATA Tension =Warp weight x factor ZONE Creel Zone Size Box Wet Splitting Dry Splitting Winding Beam FACTOR 0.5 -0.7 Stretch Mode (0-(-0.4)) 0.4 – 0.8 1.0 -1.2 1.7 – 2.0 1.4 -1.0 Rubber Roller Upto working width =2400 mm Outside Diameter Min Outside Diameter Coating Hardness Tolerance SQUEEZE ROLLER 225mm 220mm Textured coating 75°shore ±3° IMMERSION ROLLER 192mm 188mm Rubber coating 65°shore ±3° 42 | P a g e From Working width 2800 mm Outside Diameter Min Outside Diameter Coating Hardness Tolerance SQUEEZE ROLLER 285mm 280 mm textured 75°shore ±3° IMMERSION ROLLER 192mm 188 mm Rubber 65°shore ±3° Squeezing Pressure- 4KN Size box temperature - 90-92 ° C Size box level -160mm DRYING ZONE No of cylinders =12 The temperature decreases from first to last cylinder continuously Max permissible operating temp. Min permissible operating temp. Heating medium 163°C 5°C saturated vapour The supply of saturated vapours is cut off before 50 m of warp to be wound on the beam. Drying cylinder diameter 8 cylinders -180 mm -800 mm 4 cylinders RF% DRY SPLITTING ZONE No of lease Beam to Beam -: 7 Grey –: 8-13% No of beams on the creel - 1 MEASURING AND CONTROL DEVICES FOR DEGREE OF SIZING If degree of sizing is too high or low, risk of thread breaks is increased. 43 | P a g e Degree of sizing(%) = [Sa(%) * K(%)] / (100%) ; where Sa = Sizing liquor take up. It is the ratio of the liquor taken up to the weight of untreated yarn. K = Concentration. It is measured by a refractometer. Factors Affecting Degree of Sizing: · Concentration · Viscosity of sizing liquor · Temperature of sizing liquor · Speed · Squeezing pressure SIZE RECIPE It depends upon:Yarn Type  Count  CSP  Construction Details  EPI  PPI  Weave In Alok Industries, Alpenol KV and Alpenol JV are used as the main sizing agent.  Chemical Elvanol T-66 Nippa Soft PR-500 CG-28 Fibrosol-PS 30 Plystran-C Supersize Work Binder Softner Binder Binder Antistatic Starch Starch 44 | P a g e PATH OF WARP BEAM GUIDE ROLLERS IMMERSION ROLLER SQUEEZING ROLLER DRYING CYLINDERS LEASE RODS EXPANDING COMB WINDING HEAD FULL BEAM 45 | P a g e Drawing Sized beam can be take on the loom by two process called as :  Gatting In Knotting In Knotting in:- In this process new beam is tied up with old beam on loom by a machine called Knotting machine. Gatting In :- In this process new beam is draw through drop pin, heald frame and heald eye and passed by reed. It is done by two process:- 1. Mannual Drawing 2. Auto Drawing Auto Drawing After sizing sized beam is sent to the drawing in section. Alok have 11 Staubli Delta 110 auto drawing machine adjustable to any width. Sometimes they are still running manual drawing in. For normal 6000-7000 ends can be drawn, which take 1-1.5 hours for grey yarn producing 9 beam per day on an average. For wider 20000-25000 ends can be drawn in 5-6 hours producing 4-5 beams /day on average. And if we not use auto drawing then normal beam of 6000-7000 ends can be drawn, which take 5-6.5 hours for grey yarn After that knotting is done, if reed counts, weave, fabric width and total no of ends are same as that of previously running order, otherwise gaiting is done. Denting and Drawing – In All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move the warp threads up and down. The threads pass through eyelets on the heald. For a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed. 46 | P a g e INFRASTRUCTURE: . STAUBLI DELTA 110: These drawing-in installations are designed for weaving mills with medium drawing-in requirements. The DELTA 110 also handles drop wires and is a universal installation. Furthermore, a module is available that is specially designed for drawing-in course yarns. Drawing-in takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets. DELTA 110 200 Drawing-in speed (ends/min) 100/140* 200 Number of warps in 8h (ca. ) 2-5 4-8 Warp widths (m) 2.3/ 4.0/ 6.0 2.2/ 2.8/ 4.0 Number of warp sheets 1 (2*) 2 (4*) Reed density( teeth/ dm) 500 500 Max. number of frames (J/Chealds) 20 28 Max. number of frames (O- 16 20 healds) Max. rows of dropwires ____ 8 Number of dropwire paths ____ 2 Drawing-in element Hook Rapier Yarn count range (tex) 3-250 3-330 Sequence of Functions: Band gripper starts the drawing-in sequence before all modules are ready for drawing-in. If reed module is not ready, it reports after reed test. Gripper enters the dent (can be stopped if reed module is not ready, otherwise continues its forward motion. Heald module reports at heald test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before passing through heald eye. If it is in ready state, gripper moves on. Drop wire module reports at drop wire test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before penetrating eye of the drop wire. If ready, gripper moves on. Yarn supply module reports at yarn test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before entering yarn take over. If ready, the gripper continues its motion. After yarn take over, band gripper which grips the yarn withdraws. Band gripper withdraws past the drop wire and heald positions. Drop wire and heald distribution systems move on. Reed transport ensures the reed position. Yarn ejectors are actuated in position ‘e’ and ‘f’ (in the diagram). One drawn-in cycle is over. WEAVING DEPARTMENT The weaving is the final process of production of fabric. It is interlacement of warp and weft. 47 | P a g e There are three types of motion in weaving Primary Motion Shedding Picking Beating Secondary Motion Let Off Take Up Auxiallary Motion Stop-Motion Temple Brake SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE          The Unit gets the order form the P.P.C Department, as the order of the client. It also gives the delivery date promised to the client, and asks the Unit to perform accordingly. P.P.C gives the plan of the machines which are to be used for making that particular order, so that the order is completed in time. The Unit then intimates the Raw Material Department about the order and asks for the Raw Materials in the form of Weft Cones. It also asks the Warping/ Sizing Department to send the required quality of the Warp Beams for the order. Then 12-15 inches of fabric is made for checking and is sent for quality assurance of every beam. If it’s yarn dyed or shirting fabric then it is sent to the design department for approval. If any problem arises then the rectification is done, 50m of cloth made and then again sent for evaluation. This is called the first piece. After the approval is given then the looms are started and production starts. The design of the weave and all the other relevant details are fed into the computer system of the loom. 48 | P a g e Passage of warp sheet through the loom: 9 4 5 7 10 3 6 8 11 12 2 1 13 1. BEAM FLANGE 2. BEAM 3. BACK REST 4. GUIDE ROLLER 5. DROP PINS 6. WARP SHED 7. HEALD FRAME 8. RAPIER/PROJECTILE/AIR JET 9. FELL OF CLOTH 10. FRONT REST 11. EMERY ROLLER 12. GUIDE ROLLER 13. CLOTH BEAM 49 | P a g e LOOM DETAILS Alok Industries weaving division is currently running with 1862 looms.The weaving division is divided in 14 units Weaving Department Of Alok Industries Ltd.: There are total 14 weaving units in Alok Industries. Unit Number Product UNIT TYPE OF FABRIC PRODUCING 1 Wider Width fabric 2 Wider Width fabric 3 Fine Count Normal Width, Jaquard with wider width 4 Yarn Dyed (Shirting & Suiting Fabric) 5 Wider Width 6 Normal Width Fabric 7 Wider Width Fabric 8 Yarn Dyed (Shirting & Suiting Fabric) 9A Wider Width Fabric 9B Normal Width Fabric 9C Normal Width Fabric 9D Yarn Dyed Fabric Normal Width Fabric 9E Normal Width Fabric 9F Wider Width Fabric UNIT 1 Serial 1 2 Loom type Picanol omniplus (340 cm) cam 8 shaft 2 colour, airjet Picanol omniplus (340 cm) cam 10 shafts 2 colour,airjet No of Looms 56 24 UNIT 2 Serial 1 2 Loom type Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 8 shaft 2colour, airjet Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 10 shafts 2colour, airjet No of Looms 56 24 50 | P a g e UNIT 3 Serial 1 2 3 Loom type Airjet toyoda (190cm)cam 8 shafts 2 colour Rapier jacquard (360cm) twin 8 colour (SULZER) Rapier jacquard (360cm) 8 colour (picanol optimax) No of Looms 52 16 12 UNIT 4 Serial 1 2 3 Loom type Picanol omni (190 cm) dobby 6 colour, airjet Picanol rapier (190 cm) Sulzer rapier (220 cm) dobby 8 colour No of Looms 32 40 30 UNIT 5 Serial 1 2 3 4 Loom type Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 8 shaft 2 colour, airjet Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 2 colour twin,airjet Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 2 colour 10 shaft,airjet Picanol omni (340 cm) dobby 2 colour,airjet No of Looms 60 12 24 48 UNIT 6 Serial 1 2 3 4 5 6 Loom type Airjet toyoda (190cm)cam 8 shafts 2 colour Airjet toyoda (190cm)dobby 2 colour Airjet toyoda (190cm)dobby 4 colour Picanol omni (190 cm)cam 2 colour, airjet Picanol omni (190 cm) dobby 2 colour, airjet Picanol omni (190 cm) dobby 4 colour, airjet No of Looms 50 16 10 152 60 16 UNIT 7 Serial 1 2 3 Loom type Airjet toyoda (340cm)cam 8 shafts 2 colour Picanol (340 cm) 2 colour dobby 16 shaft Picanol (340 cm) cam 8 & 10 shafts No of Looms 38 52 100 51 | P a g e UNIT 8 Serial 1 2 UNIT 9A Serial 1 2 3 4 Loom type Picanol wider airjet Picanol optimax Airjet toyoda (340cm)cam 8 shafts 2 colour Airjet toyoda (340 cm)dobby 4 colour+TSUDOCOMA DOBBY No. of looms 80 69 19 12 180 Loom type Vamatex k-88 rapier (190 cm) 8 colour dobby Airjet toyoda (190 cm) cam 2 colour No of looms 76 12 UNIT 9B&C Serial 1 2 Loom type Toyota 190 batching motion cam 4 colour Toyota 710&610(190cm) Cam & Dobby 4 colour No. of looms 84 110 194 UNIT 9D Serial 1 Loom type Picanol Omni Rapier (190cm) dobby 6 colour No. of looms 110 UNIT 9E Serial 1 Loom type Picanol omni plus 800 airjet (190cm) cam 6 colour No. of looms 110 UNIT 9F Serial 1 Loom type Toyota 710 cam 8 shaft wider width No. of looms 200 52 | P a g e SAMPLING Serial 1 2 Loom type Picanol omni plus airjet (190cm) Picanol Omni Rapier (190cm) dobby 6 colour No. of looms 4 8 12 Serial Dadra unit Loom type Sulzer projeticle (190cm) No. of looms 96 Working After sizing sized beam is sent to the drawing in section. We have 11 Staubli Delta 110 auto drawing machine adjustable to any width. Unit 4 and 8 are still running manual drawing in For normal 6000-7000 ends can be drawn, which take 1-1.5 hours for grey yarn producing 9 beam per day on an average. For wider 20000-25000 ends can be drawn in 5-6 hours producing 4-5 beams /day on average. After that knotting is done, if reed counts, weave, fabric width and total no of ends are same as that of previously running order, otherwise gaiting is done. Weaving It is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The methods in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven". A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without looms. The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill. Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic designs. 53 | P a g e PROCESS AND TERMINOLOGY: In general, weaving involves using a loom to interlace of two sets of threads at right angles to each other: the warp and the weft (older woof). One warp thread is called and an end and one weft thread is a pick, the warp threads are held taut and in parallel order, typically in a loom of which there are many different types. Weaving can be summarised as a repetition of these three actions: Primary Motions Secondary Motions Auxiliary Motions  Primary Motions: 1. Shedding: Where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald frames (heddles) to form a clear space where the pick can pass 2. Picking: Where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by an air-jet, a rapier or a shuttle 3. Beating-up or battening: Where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed.  Secondary Motions: 1. Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated speed to make the filling even and of the required design 2. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that the density of filling is maintained  Auxiliary Motion: The stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a Thread break. The two main stop motions are the  Warp stop motion  Weft stop motion Others are:  Temple  Leno Stop  Catch Cord Stop  Waste Cutter The principal parts of a loom are:      The frame The warp-beam or weavers beam The cloth-roll The heddles and their mounting, The reed. 54 | P a g e The warp-beam is a wooden or metal cylinder back of the loom on which the warp is wound. The threads of the warp extend in parallel order from the warpbeamto the front of the loom, and are attached to the cloth-roll. Each thread or group of threads of the warp passes through an opening (eye) of a heddle. The warp threads are separated by the heddles into two or more groups, each controlled and automatically drawn up and down by the motion of the heddles. In the case of small patterns the movement of the heddles is controlled by “cams” which move up the heddles by means of a frame called a harness; in larger patterns the heddles are controlled by a dobby mechanism, where the healds are raised according to pegs inserted into a revolving drum. Where a complex design is required, the healds are raised by harness cords attached to a Jacquard machine. Every time the harness (the heddles) moves up or down, an opening (shed) is made between the threads of warp, through which the pick is inserted. The rapier-type weaving machines do not have shuttles, they propel the weft by means of small grippers or rapiers that pick up the filling thread and carry it halfway across the loom where another rapier picks it up and pulls it the rest of the way. Some carry the filling yarns across the loom at rates in excess of 2,000 meters per minute. Manufacturers such as Picanol have reduced the mechanical adjustments to a minimum, and control all the functions through a computer with a graphical user interface. Other types use compressed air to insert the pick, and others small projectiles. They are all fast, versatile and quiet. The handloom weaver sizes his warp in starch mixture for smoother running.He warps his loom (loomed or dressed) by passing the warp threads through heddles on two or more harnesses. The power weaver’s loom is warped by separate workers. In operation the warp threads are moved up or down by the harnesses creating a space called the shed through which the pick will pass. The harnesses can be controlled by cams, dobbies or a Jacquard head. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various sequences gives rise to many possible weave structures:      Plain weave : plain, and hopsacks, poplin, taffeta, poult and grosgrain. Twill weave : these are described by weft float followed by warp float, arranged to give diagonal pattern. 2/1 twill, 3/3 twill, 1/2 twill. These are softer fabrics than plain weaves Satin weave : satins and sateens Complex computer-generated interlacing. Pile fabrics : such as velvets and velveteen Both warp and weft can be visible in the final product. By spacing the warp more closely, it can completely cover the weft that binds it, giving a warp faced textile such as rib weave. Conversely, if the warp is spread out, the weft can slide down and completely cover the warp, giving a weft faced textile, such as a tapestry or a Kilim rug. 55 | P a g e WEAVING- FABRIC MANUFACTURING PROCESS Winding Warping or beaming · Sizing Drawing in, Looming Pirning (Processing the weft) Weaving · 56 | P a g e Measurements: Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be expressed as the number of picks and ends per quarter inch square, or per inch square. An end is always written first. For example: Heavy domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks. AIRJET WEAVING On Airjet loom, the weft is inserted with the help of compressed air having pressure around 2.5-3 kg/ cm2 in normal width and 3.5-4 kg/cm2 in wider width. The idea behind adopting this technology of weft insertion is to obtain large production with minimum defects which is not possible with other technologies. Although the main expense in Airjet is cost of compressed air which is 50 paise/CFM 57 | P a g e Fig:- Flow of weft yarn through nozzle at picking 58 | P a g e 59 | P a g e TOYOTA WEAVING MACHINE Speed Control S C Inverter It controls the machine speed in normal operation as well as controlling the forward and reverse slow inching and slow operation during gaiting. Single Beam Let Off Detects the total warp tension applied to the tension roller with load cell. The rotation of AC servo motor is transmitted via reduction gear to the warp beam gear. For spun yarn – positive easing motion For filament yarn – negative easing motion (by buffer spring) 60 | P a g e Weft insertion passage : Weft Accumulator Winding Sensor Electromagnetic Pin Measuring Bands with Reflectors Cover Motor Inlet Piece Winding Arm 61 | P a g e Yarn Type Spun Yarn Filament Yarn Tension 30 to 500 Kgf (Standard Density) 10 to 500 Kgf (Low density) 30 to 320 Kgf Shed Closing Timing 1X2 310° Easing Amount Easing Timing Plain 3X4 290° Scale Mark 6 300° Twill 290° Scale Mark 1 300° Specification of Take Up There is knob arrangement by which rotating in anticlockwise or clockwise direction, we may adjust the tension in the cloth. It provides the flexibility for weaving any type of fabric including actual take-up tension and crease for each type of fabric. Loom Shed Conditions Temperature Relative Humidity 25 – 30°C 75 – 80 % Fig:-Various nozzles in air jet weaving machine 1.Sub nozzles 2. Main nozzle 3.Relay nozzle 62 | P a g e Passage of Fabric in the Take Up of Toyota: FOR HIGH DENSITY FABRIC FOR LOW DENSITY: Expansion Bar Surface Roller Upper Press Roller Lower Press Roller Cloth Guide Cloth Roller Expansion Bar Upper Press Roller Surface Roller Lower Press Roller Cloth Guide Cloth Roller 63 | P a g e Loom Cycle Beating Shed Open Picking Start Main Nozzle Start Pick Arrival Shed Closing Shed Crossing 0° 60° 80° 90° 240° 265° 310° Typical Jet End Timing of the Main Nozzle M/c Speed RPM Jet End Timing Spun Yarn Less than 800 800 or Higher 170° 160° Filament Yarn Less than 800 800 or Higher 180° 190° The weft arrival timing depends upon the air pressure of main nozzle. The typical weft arrival timing is 230° - 240°. The weft arrival timing should be with 250° at the latest timing. If the weft arrival timing is earlier, then the back tension will become more, resulting in the curled weft end. 64 | P a g e PICANOL WEAVING MACHINE Picanol introduces the OMNIJET airjet weaving machine. The OMNIJET has been specifically designed to focus on adding value. The machine is based on Picanol’s OMNIPLUS 800 technology, with full electronic monitoring and control, Sumo main motor and microprocessor-controlled filling insertion. The OMNIJET machine is exceptionally user-friendly and enables the weaver to produce high-quality fabrics at high speeds while keeping the weaving cost low. The OMNIJET meets the investors’ objective of maximizing their return on investment. The machine helps weaving mills win in the market by offering high-quality fabrics at the lowest possible cost. The main features of the OMNIJET are: o o o o o o o o o o Optimized insertion preparation for two or four colors or yarn types Accurate, user-friendly setting of all main machine functions using the LCD display and push buttons Reed width of 150, 190 or 230 cm (59”, 74.8” or 90.5”) High-performance filling insertion for weaving more with less air Low-built, ergonomic construction Electronic Take-Up and Electronic Let-Off Sumo main motor with direct machine drive, for highest speeds at lowest power consumptions Fast warp gaiting and cloth doffing, no tools required Rotary selvedge units Easing motion by spring. Sumo main motor Picanol introduced the Sumo main motor in 1999 on its Gamma rapier machine. It drives the weaving machine directly, without clutch or brake. The Sumo motor soon proved to have the highest performance of any weaving machine drive train on the market and its success led Picanol to use it as the standard motor on all its weaving machines. Machine speed is set and controlled electronically, which makes it easy to obtain the highest industrial speed in function of the quality of the yarn, the number of frames, and the fabric construction. A high-performance prewinder The OMNIJET machine is equipped with the OMNIJET WD (Wobbling Disc) prewinder, which is uniquely designed for airjet weaving and has a wide application range. The major parameters are automatically set and the piezo bobbin break sensor prevents fabric defects and offers direct start-up possibilities at bobbin run out. The prewinder is simple to handle and maintain, and can easily be threaded through a pneumatic system. State-of-art nozzles 65 | P a g e The fixed and movable main nozzles have a high traction force, resulting in fast insertion rates with low air consumption. They can be set individually in flow or blow duration. Threading up is very easy. A stretching nozzle at the right-hand side can keep the filling tip fully extended until the closing shed, thus preventing the formation of loops, catches it. Optimized sley movement The sley movement has been optimized for maximum insertion time, thus reducing the number of weft stops. Digitally controlled valves and cutter The electromagnetic valves ensure perfect control of the airflow in the shed. The opening and closing times are monitored by the OMNIJET microprocessor. The microprocessor also controls the filling cutter and makes it possible to set the cutting times separately for each filling channel – a great advantage over mechanical systems. Optical filling detector The optical filling detector, mounted in front of the reed, stops the machine whenever the filling fails to reach the right-hand side of the machine. A second detector may be used to check whether the pick is broken in the shed or blown apart. Autospeed Thanks to the integration of the electronic insertion controls with the SUMO-drive, OMNIJET is the only machine in its class featuring Autospeed. This enables the machine speed to be automatically maximized to the conditions of the filling yarn resulting in an overall production increase. An ergonomic machine The slight slope of the OMNIJET machine guarantees easy access for the operator. The push buttons are always within easy reach and provide control of all the important machine functions. Access to the filling area is easy, as well as the access to adjust shed opening and harness height. All the advantages of digitization The electronic OMNIJET terminal monitors and controls all the main machine functions. Its big LCD screen enables the operator to set the weaving parameters in a very user-friendly way. 66 | P a g e The settings are accurate and the result of slight adjustments can be checked immediately in the fabric. When a stop occurs, the LCD screen advises the operator which action to take. The system can display diagnostic data and stop causes, so avoiding search time for stop detection. It also displays all the main data in shifts, giving the opportunity to maximize efficiency. Speed changes made easy The Sumo motor has a wide speed range, which is very useful for starting up new styles. On the OMNIJET, the foreman sets the machine speed on the keyboard even while the machine is running. This in contrast to conventional drive systems, which always involve changing pulleys and belts, or require the use of an intermediate frequency converter in order to change speed. Automatic recalculation of insertion parameters When the speed of the main motor changes, the microprocessor automatically recalculates the electronic insertion parameters – another example of how OMNIJET makes life easier for the machine operator. The parameters can easily be viewed on the microprocessor display. Save and transfer settings in no time All electronic settings can be easily reproduced or transferred from other OMNIJET machines, either by means of electronic memory cards or through a network connection: patterns, warp tension, pick density etc.. Efficient stop motions The OMNIJET machine has an electric warp stop motion with up to 6 bars with a 30 mm (1.2”) pitch. A dropper location lever helps the operator to locate the warp break quickly. The filling stop motion consists of an optical filling detector mounted in front of the reed (no cutting of the reed). Central lubrication 67 | P a g e The Electronic Take-Up (ETU), the Electronic Let-Off (ELO) and the sley are fed with oil under pressure from a central forced lubrication system controlled by the microprocessor. A microfine oil filter removes all impurities and extends the lifetime of the parts and the oil. Robust mechanics The OMNIJET machine is built around two cast iron side frames connected by very sturdy crossmembers. This rigid structure and the perfect balancing of the mechanical parts eliminate all vibration, enabling the machine to produce high-quality fabrics at high industrial speeds continuously. The crank-driven sley motion with long stroke, the extra reinforced central 4-bar-linkage drive and the balanced sley guarantee stable beat-up, thus optimizing cloth quality. Yarn-friendly insertion The OMNIJET WD prewinder, the main nozzles with cylindrical inserts, the optimized sley movement, the electro-magnetic valves, the electrical filling cutter and waste cutter – they all contribute to the high fabric quality that can easily be obtained with the OMNIJET machine. Sumo increases the fabric quality The speed of the Sumo motor is electronically controlled and set, which makes it much easier to adapt the machine speed for optimizing the fabric quality. Additionally, the Sumo motor has a very powerful, stable, and controllable start torque – a guarantee for the best fabric quality. Starting marks can be avoided because the stop and start parameters are under complete control. Electronic Let-Off (ELO) and Take-Up (ETU) Electronic Let-Off and Electronic Take-Up motions are standard on OMNIJET, another feature contributing to high fabric quality. They ensure a balanced warp tension during weaving, which helps minimize warp and weft stops. An independent servomotor drives the Electronic Let-Off motion. Tension control is carried out by means of an electronic sensor. The system operates very accurately from full to empty beam, an essential requirement for continuous quality. Also an independent servomotor drives the Electronic Take-Up motion. Pick densities can be set from 6 to 72 picks per cm (15 to 183 picks per inch). The required pick density is electronically set so that no pick wheels are required. The accuracy of the settings makes it easy to adjust the pick density of the fabric for 68 | P a g e optimum fabric weight and minimum yarn consumption. The settings are also easy to reproduce on other machines. Both let-off and take-up have a continuous control system (not on/off) to fully assure the cloth requirements. The electronic link between let-off and take-up is an additional tool for the weaver to manage stop/start fabric marks. RAPIER WEAVING Virtually no limits in creativity are set with the rapier machine. The perfect concept for economical production of high quality fabrics, for instance, delicate, fine woollen or cotton fabrics and special industrial fabrics. Rapiers: Fig:- Left hand Rapier Fig:- Right hands Rapier 69 | P a g e Fig:- Weft insertion by Rapier 70 | P a g e PICANOL GAMMAX In developing the GamMax rapier machine, Picanol has taken the requirements of the market as its starting point. These are  High productivity thanks to high machine speeds and low downtimes the ability to weave a wide variety of textiles.  Flexibility in switching from one article to another  Low weaving cost. All this and more has been achieved on the GamMax machine. Various technological innovations on the Gamma machine - the successful predecessor of GamMax - have been further refined, and new technologies and options have been added. Digital weaving GamMax enables the weaver to benefit fully from the advantages of digitisation. Most of the machine functions are digitally controlled and the number of mechanical settings has never been fewer. In addition to a reduced changeover time, this means that all machine settings can be digitally stored and transferred, and that a central production computer can control the entire weaveroom. Internet-enabled If equipped with the interactive display, GamMax is also Internet-enabled. This opens up a whole series of new possibilities for service, monitoring and organisation of production. 71 | P a g e SULZER TEXTILE G6300 Weft Insertion Passage Weft Insertion Passage Cone Guide Tensioner Weft Accumulator Weft Sensor Weft Selector Weft Cutter Gripper Nipper 72 | P a g e UTILITYAND MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT OBJECTIVES:-    To maintain the smooth working of humidification plant To maintain air pressure in loom shed To maintain electricity power HUMIDIFICATION PLANT The main objective of humidification plants to maintain loom shed humidity and humidity at loom R.H=65±2.5% (standard humidity at loom shed) R.H=80±2.5% (standard humidity over the loom) By maintaining a level of 65-75% relative humidity (%rH) in textile manufacturing facilities static build-up can be reduced,regain improved, yarn breakage minimized and dust, fly and lint suppressed. This will dramatically improve quality andmaintain consistent product weight thus maximising profits. Textile humidification will:       Improve regain Maintain yarn strength Reduce static build-up Maintain product weight Reduce fly and micro-dust Provide free cooling 73 | P a g e The total number of humidification plant in weaving department =27.And after every 2 hours R.H is checked and noted for further reference. After every month the whole humidification is cleaned by in charge workers & step by step cleaning is done . ELECTRICAL AND AIR CONSUMPTION The total incoming supply is 66kv which is stepped down to 11kv and again stepped down to 440 volts and used in motors. The total consumption of weaving 500000 units per day which includes(loom+compressor+humidification plant +all offices+other departments come under banner of weaving). Compressor motor capacity it’s unit is cubic feets/minute or CFM . PHASE I- 9200*4CFM+4500CFM+3000CFM PHASE II-9200*4CFM+4500CFM+12300CF Total developed pressure =6.2bar.where as Air pressure on machine =6.1bar Per machine consumption Normal width=35CFM Wider width=50CFM Cost of electricity is Rs 4 per unit. Therefore 500000*4=Rs 2000000 per day or Rs 60000000 per month. 74 | P a g e FOLDING & INSPECTION DEPARTMENT The folding department is made to check the fabric once weaving is completed. It focuses on finding out faults in fabrics and therefore grading the fabric according to its quality. The main aim of folding department is to find out whether the fault in the fabric is due to a fault in the machine and feedback is sent to the production department at concern stage. Information on a cloth beam that is received (a) (b) (c) (d) (e) Loom number. Sort number. Doffing number. Doffing shift. Pair number. First of all this information is cross check against information of previous records then inspection is carried out based on four point American systems. FOUR POINT AMERICAN SYSTEM OF INSPECTION Weft Wise (a) (b) (c) (d) 0 – 3 inches - one point is given. 3 - 6 inches - two points are given. 6 - 9 inches - three points are given. More than nine inches – four points are given. Warp Wise (a) 1/25th of length - four points are given. Partial Defects (a) =<5mm- two points are given.  All partial defect more than 5 mm should be cut .  No piece is allowed 4 points defect at beginning 3 mts and ending 3 mts. Gradation 75 | P a g e  A grade- A grade is given when the fabric is given maximum 15 points per 100 sq.mt Piece length for local or domestic use should be 20mts or above. Piece length for export should be more than or equal to forty meters.  B grade- if the fabric is given points between 15-22 then it is called a B grade fabric. The piece length for a B grade fabric will be 20 mts and above B grade fabric cannot be exported.   C grade – if the fabric is given points between 22-32 and it is graded as a C grade fabric. D grade – this depends on the nature of length i.e. these grades are given to those fabric pieces that have to be cut due to some fault in the fabric. If the piece is of length less than 10 meters then it is given a D grade For wider this length is 1-5 mts  E grade –this also depends on the length of the piece. A piece is given an E grade if the piece length is between 10 to 20 meters. For wider this range is 5-20 mts these pieces can have partial defects also. F grade - F grade is given to fabric pieces with continued defects i.e the fabric is not cut even if it has a defect. The piece length for a F grade fabric will be more than 20 meters. G grade – these are fabrics that are given points 32 -47.   Types of Defects 76 | P a g e Dyeing Damages Neps, Patta, Shade Variation, Uneven Dyeing, Streaks Spinning Damages Weaving Damages Partial Defects Cracks, Holes, Multiple Breaks, Torn Fabric, Tear Drop, Stitches, Float, Rust stain, sizing m/c stops Coarse pick, Dirty End, Crockled Yarn, Double weft, Oily Weft Knots, Slub, Three Ply, Coarse End, High twisted yarn, Count variation Broken End, Broken Pick, Double End, Double Pick, Oily Stain, Missing End, Pulled Warp, Reed Cut, Floating, Wrong End Snarling, Temple Marks, Weft Distortion MACHINES The folding department at Alok Industries has 35 checking machines, out of these 20 are for normal width and 15 are of wider width. Normal width – one normal width machine can check 2800- 3000 meters in 8 hours. Wider width – One wider width machine can check 2000 – 2200 meters in 8 hours. After inspection and folding the fabric is packed in roll, bale or pellet form as per customer requirement 77 | P a g e CONCLUSION By visiting the whole premises we saw that The company is well clean and green. along with it has well built canteen which provides a healthy food to its worker and staff. Also it provides a well training centre for trainees which includes internet facility too. FINDING & SUGGETION     Improper cleaning of machine – Blower are required for every loom. Not enough instrument in Q. A. department – should arrange required instrument for fibre testing . Convenience and accommodation problem – should ensure proper accommodation and convenience for employees as required. It must have the Research and Development Department. . Bibliography: 78 | P a g e  Weaving Machine Mechanism and Management – Prof. M. K. Talukdar, Prof. P. K. Sriramulu, Prof. D. B. Ajgaonkar  Weaving Mechanism – N. N. Banerjee  www.aloktextile.com  www.google.com  www.sulzer.com  The Indian Textile Journal Asian Textile Journal And the wikipedia 79 | P a g e