All CK Studies

12/06Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH Mathias-Brüggen-Str.91• D-50829 Köln Phone ++49 221 9564990 • Fax ++49 221 956499-1• E-Mail [email protected] • Website: www.courage-khazaka.de LITERATURE LIST H. Schaefer, Kuhn-Bussius, Methodik zur quantitativen Bestimmung der menschlichen Talgsekretion, Arch. klin. exp. Derm. 238/1970, 429-435 Bei Milchglas nimmt die Lichtdurchlässigkeit durch Aufdruck kleiner Fettmengen stark zu. Diese Transmissionszunahme kann photometrisch erfaßt und durch Wägung des abgenommenen Fettes auf der Mikrowaage geeicht werden. Sie ist daher zur quantitativen Bestimmung des Hautüberflächenfettes geeignet. Durch vergleichende Messung mit bekannten, auf die Stirn aufgetragenen Vaselinmengen sind Rückschlüsse auf den Fettfilm und damit die Talgdrüsenfunktion menschlicher Haut möglich. Eine ins einzelne gehende Testbeschreibung wird am Schluß der Arbeit gegeben. M. Gloor, U. Schulz, G.Wieland, I.Wieland, H.C.Friedrich, Beitrag zur quantitativen Bestimmung der Hautoberflächenlipide in der Praxis, Dermatologica 27.12.71 Es wird über Bestimmungen der Menge der Hautoberflächenlipide (casual level und replacement sum) mit Hilfe des Osmiumsäuretest nach Brun et al. an 33 Versuchspersonen und mit Hilfe des Milchglastests nach Schäfer und Kuhn-Bussius an 14 Versuchspersonen berichtet. An der symmetrischen Körperstelle wurden jeweils exakte gravimetrische Lipidbestimmungen nach der Methode von Honsig vorgenommen. Zusätzlich wurde die Zusammensetzung der Hautoberflächenlipide dünnschichtchromatographisch analysiert. Im Gegensatz zum Milchglastest erwies sich der Osmiumsäuretest als aussagekräftig. Die Zusammensetzung der Hautoberflächenlipide beeinflußt das Ergebnis beider Methoden nur wenig. Tronnier, Brunn, Vergleichsuntersuchungen des Hautoberflächenfettes Hautgesunder und Aknekranker, Berufsdermatosen, 79-88, 1972 Mit Hilfe einer aus Säulen-, Dünnschicht und Gaschromatographie sowie IR-Spektroskopie kombinierten Methode wurde eine Vollanalyse der Hautoberflächenlipide bei Aknekranken im Vergleich zu hautgesunden Kontrollpersonen durchgeführt. Aus den Mittelwerten von je 5 Probanden ergab sich: 1. Die Menge der Oberflächenlipide ist bei der Akne gering erhöht. 2. Bei der Auftrennung in die einzelnen Fraktionen waren in der Kontrollgruppe u.a. die Triglyzeride, bei der Akne dagegen die freien Fettsäuren vermindert. 3. Die Verteilungen im übrigen entsprachen unter Berücksichtigung methodischer Unterschiede den Angaben in der Literatur. 4. Die möglichen Auswirkungen der gefundenen Differenzen auf die Pathogenese der Akne bezüglich der Gesamtverteilung auf die Fraktionen (z.B. Spreitung) und der Kettenlänge (z.B. Reizwirkung) werden erwähnt. Tronnier, Methodisches zum Nachweis des Hauttalgs unter besonderer Berücksichtigung der Akne, Vortrag anläßlich der Tagung der Gesellschaft Deutscher Kosmetik-Chemiker e.V., 14.16- 03.74 Die Problematik der Hautfettbestimmung wird beschrieben, die in der uneinheitlichen Zusammensetzung, in der unterschiedlichen Lokalisation und in der verschieden vollständigen Gewinnung des Hauttalgs begründet ist. Vor - und Nachteile der verschiedenen Methoden werden, teilweise unter Heranziehung eigener Versuche, dargestellt. Von den drei für die Seborrhoe und die H\litlist\studies 12/06 2 Erkrankungen des seborrhoischen Formenkreises in Frage kommenden Störungen im Hauttalgsystem, nämlich in der Menge, in der Zusammensetzung und im physikalischen Verhalten des Talgfilms auf der Hautoberfläche, scheint letzterem die wesentlichste Rolle zuzukommen. Dies konnte aus zahlreichen Untersuchungen einerseits bei der Akne und anderseits bei der Seborrhoe abgeleitet werden. Auf die Bedeutung des Verhältnisses von Talgmenge zur Spreitungsfähigkeit für die Ausbildung von Comedonen bei Akne wird anhand vergleichender Talguntersuchungen mit verschiedenen Methoden und unter Glucocorticoid-Medikation hingewiesen. Die bei Akne vorliegende Störung in dieser Relation wird an weiteren experimentellen Befunden erörtert. Tronnier, H.Kuhn-Bussius, Zur Brauchbarkeit optischer Methoden für die Bestimmung des Hautoberflächenfettes, Hautklinik Dortmund, Kosmetologie 06/1974 F. Greiter, S. Doskoczil, Forschung in der Kosmetik, Österreichische Chemie-Zeitschrift, Juni 1976 Diese Arbeit ist ein Versuch, sinnvolle Forschung in der Kosmetik zu beschreiben und zu begründen. Nur neuere Methoden werden beschrieben. Bekannte Prüfungsverfahren einschließlich Spektralphotometrie und Gaschromatographie dürfen als üblich vorausgesetzt werden. Spezieller Wert wird auf das Gebiet des Sonnenschutzes gelegt. Auch die Notwendigkeit besonderer Emulsionsformen wird behandelt. Es wird daran erinnert, daß die Kosmetik nicht nur die Aufgabe des Schmückens (Kosmein), sondern vor allem auch der Reinigung, der Pflege und des Schutzes der Haut hat. Es wird ausgeführt, daß kosmetische Präparate, die zum Teil im Grenzbereich Kosmetik-Pharmazie liegen, einen Beitrag zur Fitneßbewegung leisten können. Es wird allerdings auch unmißverständlich dargelegt, daß Irreführung in der Kosmetik abzulehnen ist und eine weit gehende Deklaration der Kosmetikpräparate notwendig erscheint. Nur die Werbung geht glatt unter die Haut, „Test“ 01/1978 Tronnier, Differenzierte Feuchtigkeitsmessungen an der menschlichen Haut, Ärzliche Kosmetologie 308, 1980 Differentiated moisture measurements on human skin are carried out by means of the demonstration of resonance frequency measurements, resistance measurements and condensor methods. Furthermore, the importance of applying the appropriate base in therapy and cosmetics depending on the individual hydration condition is demonstrated. Tronnier, Meßmethoden zur Prüfung kosmetischer Präparate und Grundstoffe, Parfümerie und Kosmetik 61, 1980 D. St Léger, J.L. Leveque, Les méthodes quantitatives des lipides de surface chez l´homme, International journal of cosmetic science, 1980 Three main methods to measure quantitatively surface lipids in man have been used. A comparison of the information they produce and their routine practicabilities are given. Adaptation and standardization of the Schaeffer and Kuhn-Bussius method, using a photoelectric absorptiometer and ground glass plates are described. This procedure, applied to thirty-two adults, demonstrated the quantitative nature of the sampling mechanism. A mathematical approach gives the precise definition of the casual-level. This procedure shows that casual-level values appear to be correlated with skin types. J.B. Dawson, D.J. Barker, D.J. Ellis, E. Grassam, J.A. Cotterill, G.W. Fisher, and J.W. Feather, A theoretical and experimental study of light absorption and scattering by in vivo skin, Vol.25.No.4, 695-709, Phys.Med.Biol. 1980. A theoretical treatment has been developed for the optical properties of a layered structure which absorbs and scatters light. This theory predicts that the logarithm of the inverse of reflectance (LIR) of the surface should be a useful parameter for the examination of that structure. This approach has been H\litlist\studies 12/06 3 applied to a study of skin in vivo. An instrument was constructed for use in clinical situations to measure the LIR spectrum of skin over the visible region of the spectrum (450-760 nm). The contributions to the observed spectra made by pigments and the skin structure were deduced by reference to the theoretical model. Numerical indices were used to quantify the changes in skin haemoglobin content following the application of vasoconstricting preparations. Schrader, Untersuchungen wasserretinierender Kosmetika auf der Haut, Parfümerie und Kosmetik 62, 1981 Mit dem Corneometer zur Bestimmung der aktuellen Feuchtigkeit der oberen Hautschichten gelingt es, kosmetische Produkte auf ihren Hydratationseffekt - besonders im Stratum Corneum- zu überprüfen. Für diese Untersuchungen wurden eine W/O-Emulsion, eine O/W-Emulsion sowie ein Gesichtswasser herangezogen, die zugleich mit einem entsprechenden Wirkstoff der Haut auch Wasser zuführen. Es wurden alternativ geprüft - neben dem jeweiligen Placebo: Harnstoff, Desamidokollagen, Natriumsalz der Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Kollagenhydrolysat. Der Effekt bei einigen Wirkstoffen zeigt auch bei 120 Minuten nach der Applikation noch deutlich erhöhte Werte gegenüber der Kontrolle, während bei anderen eine Exsikkation gemessen wurde. Die Resultate dieser Prüfungen lassen weitere Untersuchungen mit anderen Wirkstoffen sinnvoll erscheinen. S. Dikstein, Instrumental Analysis in Individual Cosmetic Consultation, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 98, Nov. 1983 K. Zeller, H. Huben, Sebumetrische Messungen des „Casual Level“ der Hautoberflächenlipide bei einem studentischen und einem geriatrischen Kollektiv hautgesunder Probanden, Aktuelle Dermatologie, Juni 1983 Für dermatologische Reihenuntersuchungen wäre es wünschenswert, die in der Regel makroskopische Einschätzung des „seborrhoischen“ oder „sebostatischen“ Hautstatus mittels eines einfachen, leicht transportablen Meßgerätes objektivieren zu können. Es wurde daher an zwei altersunterschiedlichen Probandengruppen (223 Junioren, 116 Senioren) untersucht, ob mit einem neuen reflexphotometrischen sog. Sebumeter eine quantitative Untersuchung bezüglich des Hautoberflächenfettfilmes möglich ist. Das Gerät erwies sich vor allem im Hinblick auf eine semiquantitative Objektivierung des exsikkativen oder sebostastischen Hornschichtstatus brauchbar. Darüber hinaus wurden auch Geschlechtsunterschiede ermittelt. Anwendungsmöglichkeiten bestehen bei Einstellungsuntersuchungen für ekzemgefährdete Feuchtberufe (z.W. Friseure, Maurer, Stukkateure) sowie zur Früherkennung der sog. Alterssebostase. Dikstein, Shabtay,Orgad, Distribution of sebum measurement in normal adult women, 4 th International Symposium on Bioengin. & The Skin, 09/83 Simon, Cosmetic effect in relation to hydration of the skin proved by changed electric conductivity, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 256-259 ,1984 Several skin care products have been investigated. The skin resistance was measured with a dermotest apparatus. Computer processing revealed that complex cosmetic treatment causes a decrease of skin resistance (i.e. an increase of the skin hydratation) as compared to the control side.The results are supported by the opinions of the treated subjects. U. Huschka, A. Schulewsky, Hauttalgsekretion und Haarshampoos, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 1984 Mit insgesamt 1520 Messungen wurde an 20 Probanden der Einfluß von vier Haarshampoos, die unterschiedliche Antischuppenwirkstoffe enthielten, auf die Rückfettung der behaarten Kopfhaut und der Stirn sebumetrisch mit der Kunststoffbandmethode untersucht. Im Gegensatz zu anderen Berichten war bei 85% unserer Probanden der Ausgangsfettspiegel auf der behaarten Kopfhaut nach der Wäsche innerhalb von 24 Stunden wieder erreicht; die vollständige Rückfettung der Stirn erfolgte bei 90% der Probanden zwischen 2 und 5 Stunden. Die Änderung der Rückfettung war durch Fettmessungen im kinetischen Bereich nach 2, nach 5 und 24 Stunden wesentlich empfindlicher bestimmbar als im Steady-state nach 72 Stunden. Die nach den ersten Haarwäschen einsetzende Änderung der Rückfettungsgeschwindigkeit verstärkte sich über mindestens 3 Wochen und war erst nach diesem H\litlist\studies 12/06 4 Zeitpunkt eindeutig bewertbar. 0,6% Pyrithiondisulfid führte zu leicht verstärkter Rückfettung, 0,2% Pyrithiondisulfid mit 7% Dinatriumundecylensäuremonoäthanolamidosulfosuccinat war neutral, eher sebostatisch wirksam, 0,5% Octopirox führte zur Verstärkung der Rückfettung. Am behaarten Kopf und an der Stirn war die Wirkung der Inhaltsstoffe in der Regel gleichgerichtet. Werner, The water content of the stratum corneum in patients with atopic dermatitis, Acta Derm Venereol 66:281-284, 1984 M. Gloor, M. Gehse, E. Wölfle, Beeinflussung der Hornschichtfeuchtigkeit durch waschaktive Substanzen, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 15/1985 Bei 32 hautgesunden Versuchspersonen wurde der Wassergehalt der Hornschicht vor und nach Anwendung einer 3-bzw.6%igen Tensidlösung (3mal täglich über 4 Tage) bestimmt. Bei weiteren 20 gesunden Versuchspersonen wurde die gleiche Untersuchung mit einer 3-bzw 6%igen Seifenlösung vorgenommen. Die Messungen erfolgten mit Hilfe der Infrarotspektroskopie und der Kapazitätsmessung der Hornschicht. Eindeutig war mit beiden Methoden ein Dehydratationseffekt sowohl durch die Seife als auch durch die Tensidlösung nachweisbar, der bei der Tensidlösung quantitativ weitgehend unabhängig von der Konzentration der waschaktiven Substanzen war, bei der Seifenlösung jedoch bei der 6%-Lösung weniger ausgeprägt als bei der 3% Lösung. In der zweiten Stunde nach der letzten Waschung kam es nach Anwendung der Tensidlösung zu einem deutlichen Rehydratationseffekt, der nach Anwendung der Seife nicht in gleichem Ausmaß zu beobachten war. Der Rehydratationseffekt war unabhängig von der Konzentration der waschaktiven Substanz. Beim Vergleich der Methoden erwies sich der Rehydratationseffekt als eindrucksvoller, wenn man die infrarotspektroskopischen Meßwerte zugrunde legte. Wie infrarotspektroskopische Untersuchungen nach Strippen der Haut zeigen, erstreckt sich die Dehydratation der Hornschicht nur auf deren oberflächlichste Anteile. Dikstein, Courage, Verteilung von Talgspiegelmessungen bei gesunden erwachsenen Frauen, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 15, 41-44, 1985 The sebumeter measures the amount of fats on the skin by absorbing it onto a thin plastic strip and measuring its transparency. The range of values relevant to medicocosmetics was established by asking experienced cosmeticians to define and classify the skin of over 150 women according to “Dry” (insufficient sebum level),”Normal” or “Oily”. The skin was then measured by Sebumeter. 70- 80 % agreement is present between the cosmetician’s definition of “Dry” or “Oily” skin at the extremes, but in the middle the definition is casual. Tabulating the data into histograms permits in finding the best balance between the subjective cosmetic definition and the instrumental reading. On the forehead, Sebumetric readings of less than 90, and on the cheek and neck readings of less than 60 mean “Dry” skin. Sebumetric readings of more than 200 on the forehead, more than 160 on the cheek, and more than 100 on the neck, mean “Oily”skin. The advantage of using objective instrumental readings in place of observational methods is the prevention of misdiagnoses. de Pedova, Tosti, Veronesi, Gelatin-Cystine in Seborrheic Alopecia, J. Appl. Cosmetol. 04-06/1986 The gelatin-cystine spherules seem to be able to affect the regulation of sebum genesis. In the order to demonstrate the sebum normalizing property performed by this product, a study was carried out on 60 subjects affected by seborrheic alopecia. A signifiant reduction of seborrhea was observed in 30% of the subjects taking the gelatin-cystine spherules for the period established. It was also observed a significant reduction of serine, proline, glycine, alanine, ½ cystine, valine, leucine and methionine is always found and a parallel increase of glutamin acid, phenilalanine and argine. Morganti, Randazzo, Cardillo, Role of insoluble and soluble collagen as skin moisturizer, J. Appl. Cosmetol. 10-12/1986 The normal state of skin hydration depends mainly on the water content present at the stratum corneum level. In order to evaluate the water-binding property of soluble and insoluble animal collagen, and in order to compare its abilities in cutaneous hydratation, both the long and short-term water-binding capacity of human skin was tested “in vivo”. First data shows that the presence of soluble native collagen is indispensable in order to obtain a long-lasting hydrating effect. H\litlist\studies 12/06 5 Dikstein, Katz, Maibach, Instruments for measuring stratum corneum moisture content, International Journal of Science,289-292, 1986, 8 P. Thune, T. Gustavsen, Comparison of two photoelectric techniques for quantitative measurement of skin surface lipids, Acta Derm Venerol 1987 Zlotogorski, Distribution of skin surface pH on the forehead and cheek of adults, Arch Derm Res, 1987 The skin surface pH on the forehead and cheek of 574 men and women aged 18/95 was measured. No differences were found between men and women regarding forehead and cheek pH distribution. The group over the age of 80 showed higher pH values on both the forehead and the cheek. In 89% of the subjects measured, the skin surface pH on the cheek was higher than on the forehead. The central 90%, i.e., the “representative range”, for the population below the age of 80 is between 4.0-5.5 on the forehead and between 4.2-5.9 on the cheek. Tronnier, Dermatologische Bewertung von Kosmetika und Körperpflegemitteln, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 374-398, 1987 The practitioning dermatologist is interested in body care products and cosmetics because of their potential side-effects which may be allergic or primarily toxic. In view of skin physiology also cosmetics and body care products having special effects, such as light and skin protective preparations, deodorants and antiperspirants, dandruff and hair removing products, washing products and preparations which are supposed to have an anti-wrinkle effect on the skin, are of interest to the dermatologist. These preparations claiming a certain effect are opposed to the series of cosmetics which to some extent also make this claim, but on the whole have general effects such as improvement of the hydration of the horny layer and influence on the pH-value of the skin effects which, however, are also assigned to some special products. These preparations contain a number of active substances the effects of which are at least controversial and often difficult to prove. So, it is pointed out to the fact that just in case of body care products and cosmetics the effect of the basic substances used is essentially responsible for the effects of care. E. Berardesca, G. Borrini, G. Gabba, R. Borlone and G. Rabbiosi, Evidence for Elastic Changes in Agend Skin Revealed in an In Vivo Extensometric Study at Low Loads. Bioengineeing Skin 1986 An in vivo extensometric study of skin for different age groups is described. Seventy nine healthy male subjects entered the study. They were classified into six age groups (19 years and under, 20 to 29, 30 to 39, 40 to 49, 50 to 59, 60 and over). Measurements were taken on the unexposed forearm at a very low load (7.8 N) with a specially built extensometer. Highly significant (P < 0.0001) increasing levels were recorded among the age groups. The authors discuss the relationship between the data and ageing changes in the elastic fibre network, suggesting that this method may be useful in monitoring wrinkling. Dikstein, Comparison of the Sebumeter and the Lipometer, Bioeng. Skin, 197 - 207, 3, 1987 Die Instrumente Lipometer und Sebumeter wurden durch gleichzeitige Messungen der zufälligen Lipidwerte an nebeneinander liegenden Stellen derselben Person verglichen. Der Koeffizient der Bestimmung zwischen den Instrumenten ist 92%. Das Sebumeter ist geeigneter für die Messungen eines raschen Screenings. Korting, Bau, Baldauf, pH-Abhängigkeit des Wachstumsverhaltens von Staphylococcus aureus und Propionibacterium acnes, Ärztliche Kosmetologie,01/02/1987 Five different cutaneous isolates of staphylococcus aureus and seven of propionibacterium acnes were investigated in a buffered liquid medium with respects to the dependence of their growth on different pH-values kept constant. With both species a strong dependence of the growth rate on the pH-value was found. The S. aureus strains showed a distinct value of optimum of growth at pH 7.5 with P. acnes a range of optimum growth could be determined between pH 6.0 and 6.5. The conclusion can be drawn that even minor shifts of the skin pH from its normal value of 5.5 towards more alkaline values- H\litlist\studies 12/06 6 as they result from washings with soaps- remarkably enhance the growth of P. acnes while a similar phenomenon could only be expected from major shifts with respects to S. aureus. Muti, Barrico, Berino, Gelentano, Measurement of cutaneous sebum: reproducibility at different cleansing conditions, J. Appl. Cosmetol. 07-09/1987 Hevert, Berz, Händewaschen ohne Wasser, Arbeitsmedizin, Sozialmedizin, Präventivmedizin, 1987 Within the feasibility stage of ORDET (Prospective Study on Hormones and Diet in Breast Cancer Etiology) a reproducibility study on the measuring of cutaneous sebum has been carried out. The Schwarzhaupt SM410 Sebumeter was used for the assessment of the sebum production. 11 measurements were taken from the forehead, back and nape over 36 hr. period, on 9 women ranging in age from 28 to 61 years. A good reproducibility was observed for all measurements and sebumeter discrimination capacity for different levels of sebum production appears particularly high for the forehead. The use of forehead sebum measurement has proved to be suitable for epidemiological studies. Schrader, Bielfeldt, Die Beeinflussung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und Hautglätte durch den Biokatalysator Adenosintriphosphat (ATP), Ärztliche Kosmetologie,1988, 372-378 Sehr geringe Mengen ATP-Dinatriumsalz (0,005%,0,05%) wurden in einem feuchtigkeitsspendenden Gesichtstonic eingesetzt. Gemessen wurde die Beeinflussung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und der Hautglätte. Obwohl die Grundlage erwartungsgemäß bereits befriedigende Wirkungen, insbesondere was die Hautfeuchtigkeit anbelangt, erzielt, führt der Zusatz sehr geringer Mengen ATP noch zu einer dramatischen Wirkungssteigerung. Blichman, Serup, Assessment of skin moisture measurement of electrical conductance, capacitance and transepidermal water loss, Acta Derm Venereol 1988 Experiments on skin moisture were undertaken using three different equipments, i.e. the Skicon 100 and Corneometer CM 420 hydrometers, and the ServoMed EP1 evaporimeter. Studies included ten healthy volunteers. Water was applicated to test sites on the forearm and the palm of the hand, and effects monitored by the three methods. Parallel increases in conductance, capacitance and transepidermal water loss were registered lasting about five min. The Skicon-100 was more sensitive for measurement of increased hydration while the Corneometer CM 420 might be more sensitive for measurement of decreased hydration. Inter- and intra- individual variations were minor with all instruments. According to reproducibility studies the Corneometer CM 420 was more accurate than the Skicon-100. Technical experiments indicated that the Corneometer CM 420 depicts changes of hydration down to a depth of 0.1 mm while the Skicon-100 measures very superficially. In conclusion, both hydrometers were relevant and valid for assessment of skin moisture. The methods are supplementary, and their combined use is recommended. D.van Neste, J.L. Antoine, A vehicle controlled study of the effects of hydrating agents in a human model of rough dermatitic skin, Bioeng. skin, 4/1988 Rough dermatitic skin (RDS) sites induced by sodium laurylsulphate (SLS, aqueous solutions at 10%,5% and 1% left under occlusion for 48 hours, distilled water served as a 0% SLS control; ten subjects) showed increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase cutaneous blood flow values (CBFV) which lasted from day 1 to days 5 to 7. There were no significant changes of skin electrical properties (COND) 24 hours after removal of the SLS patches. However, this lag phase was followed by a gradual decrease of COND (days 2 to 5). Normal COND values were again recorded around day 7 after the initial insult, along with elimination of the superficial SLS induced flake. COND was correlated with clinical scores of roughness. Finally, almost complete recovery of RDS was observed by day 10 with normal TEWL, CBFV and COND. A time course study of TEWL, CBFV and COND showed epidermal repair after daily topical treatment with the vehicle alone tested or the vehicle with hydrating agents (HA) (10% urea and 5% lactic acid).When compared with untreated skin or vehicle treated RDS patches, COND was higher at HA treated sites. Under the experimental conditions proposed in this study, COND did not reflect the acute changes of barrier function of the skin as accurately as TEWL or CBFV measurements. It generated a signal closely H\litlist\studies 12/06 7 related to the feeling of roughness, hence allowing instrumental monitoring of the epidermal healing underneath the superficial scale. Finally, it provided quantitative data in relation to substantivity of topically applied hydrating agents onto experimentally induced RDS in human skin. E. Beradesca, H.I. Maibach, Racial Differences in Sodium Lauryl Sulphate induced cutaneous irritation: black and white, Contact Dermatitis 18: 65-70, 1988 The different reactivity of black and white skin after exposure to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) has been investigated. 9 white and 10 black male volunteers entered the study. The tests were performed on the back at 3 sites: untreated skin, skin pre-treated with occlusion and skin pre-delipidized. Irritant reactions were elicited applying 0.5% and 2.0% SLS via Finn chamber patch tests and monitored by means of laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV), transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum water content (WS). Higher TEWL, LDV, and WC values were recorded for 2.0% SLS when compared to 0.5% SLS and baselines. Pre-treatment with short-term occlusion generally increased values, while delipidization produced flattening of the data more detectable in whites than in blacks. Significant TEWL differences for two concentrations were recorded in whites for the occluded site (P<0.02) while in blacks in the untreated (P<0.04) and delipidized (P<0.03) sites. LDV revealed significant changes in the untreated and pre-occluded white skin (P<0.05 and 0.01, respectively). In blacks, the values were significantly different only in the pre-occluded skin (P<0.01). Water content correlated with the visual score and was greatly increased in sites with strongly positive reactions (P<0.01). It appears that there are significant differences in the modulation of irritation, in the behaviour of water barrier function and of the erythematous response between blacks and whites. Clinical correlations are discussed. H.I. Maibach, E. Patrick, Session VI: Hair, Sebaceous Glands and Nails, 7 th International Symposium of Bioengineering and the Skin, 1988 Tronnier, Die Haut als Grenzschicht, Kosmetik International 8/88 Als äußere Begrenzung des Organismus ist die menschliche Haut wie kein anderes Organ Umwelteinflüssen ausgesetzt. Eine seiner wesentlichsten Aufgaben ist es, diese Umwelteinflüsse abzuwehren, zu neutralisieren oder soweit zu modifizieren, daß sie den Organismus nicht gefährden. Einen Teil insbesondere akuter Schädigungen vermag die Haut über verschiedene Rezeptoren, die sie insgesamt auch zu einem Sinnesorgan machen, zu erkennen. Gegen andere, insbesondere relativ schwache und chronische Noxen vermag die Haut mit Anpassungsvorgängen, erwähnt sei nur die Hornschichtverdickung oder die Pigmentbildung, zu reagieren. In dem Thema „Die Haut als Grenzschicht“ möchte ich zu drei Komplexen Stellung nehmen, die entweder zur Zeit zum Teil kontrovers diskutiert werden oder von denen ich glaube, daß sie thematisch aus Ihrer Arbeitsrichtung von Interesse sein könnten. Fiorentini, Becheroni, Iorio, Hyaluronic acid: analytical procedures for purity determination, polymerization degrees and comparative instrumental tests “in vivo”, International Journal of cosmetic science 26.29/09/88 Recent studies have shown that hyaluronic acid is an important molecule in cosmetics, although there are different, sometimes controversial theories about its role. This work is an analytical contribution to the characterization and a control of hyaluronic acid. The main techniques used are UV, GCP or SEC, IR and corneometry. Surveys conducted with the aid of these techniques have allowed a better knowledge of the molecular weight determination and of the uniform quality of commercial supplies. These procedures may be of application for quality control and promote further investigation on the biological tissular role played by hualuronic acid in topical cosmetic products. The analytical results of a study of the evaluation of oil/water (o/w) emulsions containing hyaluronic acid of different origins are reported. The analytical data obtained from cutaneous hydratation control apparatuses were compared statistically. The choice of hyaluronic acid, made through screening and evaluation by the above-mentioned techniques, ensures the optimal formulation of the finished product and a quality standard of the active principle. H\litlist\studies 12/06 8 Nissen, Physikalische Meßmethoden in der Kosmetik, Kosmetik International, 18 - 22, 11/1988 Bei der Anwendung physikalischer Meßmethoden in der kosmetischen Praxis sind grundsätzliche Gesichtspunkte zur Messung sowohl hinsichtlich der Methoden als auch der Versuchsdurchführung zu beachten. Die anwendbaren Meßverfahren sollten einfach und ohne großen technischen, personellen und finanziellen Aufwand möglich sein. Diese Bedingungen werden von einigen Meßgeräten erfüllt. Mit ihrer Hilfe kann in kurzer Zeit eine exakte Hautdiagnose gestellt und die kosmetischen Wirkansprüche bestimmter Produkte überprüft werden. J.W. Feather,D.J. Ellis,G. Leslie, A portable reflectometer for the rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin, Phys.Med.Biol., Vol.33, 711-722, 1988 A portable reflectance instrument for the rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin is presented. Light emitting diodes (LEDS) are used to illuminate the skin and a silicon photodiode to detect the light diffusely reflected from the surface. Reflectance measurements are made at only three wavelengths and the problem of pigment quantification consequent upon this are discussed. In addition to quantification of haemoglobin and melanin, qualitative information on the redox state of blood may also be obtained. Measurements made on a port wine stain, which had been treated with 576 nm cw laser radiation at times between 1 and 6 months previously, provided information on the vascular response to this thermal injury. Despite the treated area visually appearing normal at 6 months post-treatment the measured levels of deoxygenated and total haemoglobin were still markedly higher than those in the adjacent uninvolved skin. The cutaneous pigment indices are insensitive to skin movements and almost all body sites are suitable for measurement. J.W. Feather, D.J. Ellis, G. Leslie, A portable reflectometer for a rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin, Vol.33, No 6, 711-722, Phys.Med.Biol., 1988. A portable reflectance instrument for the rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin is presented. Light emitting diodes (LEDS) are used to illuminate the skin and a silicon photodiode to detect the light diffusely reflected from the surface. Reflectance measurements are made at only three wavelengths and the problems of pigment quantification consequent upon this are discussed. In addition to quantification of haemoglobin and melanin, qualitative information on the redox state of the blood may also be obtained. Measurements made on port wine stain, which had been treated with 576 nm cw laser radiation at times between 1 and 6 months previously, provided information on the vascular response to this thermal injury. P. Morganti, S.D. Randazzo, L´utilizzazione degli indici di correzione per il trattamento cosmetico della cute secca e desidratata, Il Prodotto Chimico, April 1989 Solaroli, Manifestazioni seborroiche e desquamative del capillizio, trattate con un nuovo preparato a base di urea e acido salicilico, La Medicina Estetica, 13.04.1989 Seborrhea and desquamation of the scalp treated with a new preparation based on urea and salicylic acid. The activity of salicylic acid and urea from particular lotions was studied in vivo by measuring the possible antiseborrheic effect. We used the modified photometric technique (Sebumeter SM 810) which permits measurement of casual levels (CL) or sebometric index (SI); although this is less accurate then a sebum excretion rate (SER) assessment, but there is some correlation between (SER) and (CL). In the study of 30 patients we have employed the method described to assess the bioavailability of Keratolytic and Keratoplastic agents incorporated in topical formulations; in this way we have shown the benefit of these preparations. Th. Frödin, Specific determination of epidermal water by optothermal infrared spectometry, Regional Symposium, Copenhagen, 15.06.89 Christa W. Blichmann, Effects of single application of a moisturizer, Regional Symposium, Copenhagen, 15.06.89 Anders Winther, Effects of repailed application of a moisturizer, Regional Symposium, Copenhagen, 15.06.89 H\litlist\studies 12/06 9 Desai, Kosmetische Spezialprodukte aus nachwachsenden Rohstoffen, Vortrag anläßlich des SCC annual meeting, New York, 02.-04.12.1988, Parfümerie und Kosmetik, 6/89 Special cosmetic products bases on regrowing raw materials. Some new cosmetic specialities based on “regrowing raw materials” are introduced. These chemicals are harmless from the toxicological and dermatological point of view. Moreover, they possess interesting cosmetic properties such as gentleness, anti-irritation, emolliency and moisture regulation. The new bio-raw materials presented here offer various possibilities for a wide use in all fields of the grooming cosmetics. Rimpler, Zur Wirksamkeit von Kosmetika, Teil1: Messung der Hautfeuchtigkeit, Beauty Nr. 2/89 S. Dikstein, The normal range of the skin’s parameters, o.V., o.J. In order to define the normal values of any measurement, we have to study its variation in the population according to age, sex, etc. We wish to present the normal biological variation and the age dependency of the following parameters on the forehead skin of women: Indentation, as measured by low-pressure indentometry; Elastic recovery (rebound), as measured by low-pressure indentometry; Skin slackness, as measured by levarometry, and Skin surface pH, as measured a by pH meter equipped with a planar surface electrode. Statistical analysis showed age dependence of these parameters. The mean values at the ages of 20 and 70, were respectively; low pressure indentation:0.043-0.054 cm, elastic recovery: 80.5%;-65.5%; levarometry (slackness). 0.037-0.068 cm; and skin surface pH:5.25-5.61. The correlation coefficient was low but significant at p<0.05 for indentometry, elastic recovery and skin surface pH (0.21- 0.32-0.16) and good for levarometry (0.57). The above measurements and calculations allowed us to decide on the “normal” versus “desired” range. In analogy, for an antipyretic drug we need to know at what body temperature to start using it and what the desired normal temperature is. Such analysis is very important if we wish to develop skin care products with scientifically proven value to combat aging aspects of the skin. Bosio, Teresa Anfossi, Silvia Audi, Grivetta, Indici biofisici della cute in rapporto all‘età determinati in elastometria cutanea, Incontri di cosmetologia, 06/89 L’indagine è condotta mediante l’impiego del CUTOMETER SEM 474; il pricipio di funzionamento dello strumento si basa sulla possibilità di misurare, mediante uno speciale sensore optoelettronico, l’altezza della cute aspirata all’interno di una sonda da una depressione di 250 mBar (2,3). I risultati di ogni singola determinazione vengono presentati sotto forma di grafico delle deformazioni cutanee dove in ordinata è indicata l’altezza in mm della cute aspirata nella sonda ed in ascissa sono indicati i tempi a cui il parametro altezza viene rilevato. Si osserva di norma il seguente comportamento:rapido e lineare incremento del parametro altezza seguito da una fase di crescita lenta fino al ragiungimento del valore della massima deformazione cutanea indotta dalla forza applicata. C. Torresani, D. Rastelli, M. E. Berioli, G.De Panfilis, Valutazione dell‘efficacia di un ‘emulsione cosmetica a base di aqua termale sulfurea, Incontri di Cosmetologia, 07/89 Lo studio è stato condotto su un gruppo di 20 pazienti, 13 femmine e 7 maschi, di età compresa tra 21 e 43 anni. Il trattamento è consistito in due applicazioni giornaliere di una emulsione O/A contenente per il 79% acqua termale sulfureo-solfato-calcica, per un periodo di quattro settimane. Durante tale periodo è stato escluso qualsiasi altro trattamento ed i pazienti sono stati invitati ad effettuare la detersione del viso esclusivamente con acqua. I pazienti sono stati controllati prima dell’inizio del trattamento, nonché al 7°, 14°, 21° e 28° giorno del trattamento stesso. La valutazione quantitativa della seborrea è stata effettuata mediante sebometro reflettometrico Sebumeter SM 410 della ditta Schwarzhaupt. Come gruppo di controllo, è stato scelto un gruppo di 10 pazienti, omogeneo per sesso, età e patologia. Tali pazienti sono stati trattati, secondo le stesse modalità, con una emulsione placebo contenente i soli eccipienti e priva del principio attivo. E. Berardesca, G.Borroni, G.F. Secchi, Valutazioni dermatologiche e misurazioni cutanee nella detersione con latte di soia atomizzato, Incontri di cosmetologia, 06/89 P. Morganti, S.D. Randozzo, Gli indici di idratazione e di emolienza per la verifica dello stato cutaneo, Incontri di Cosmetologia No. 3, 07/89 H\litlist\studies 12/06 10 Per la misurazione sia del sebo di superficie che dell’ idrazione cutanea ci si è serviti di un sistema computerizzato denominato Dermotest Hytech dato dall’unione del Sebometer SM 810 PC et del CORNEOMETER CM 820 PC, opportunamente collegati ad un PC mediante un adeguato programma di utilizzazione. Utilizzando il Dermotest Hytech è possibile ottenere direttamente sia i valori sebometrici espressi in mg/cm² che i valori della idratazione cutanea espressi in CV (corneometer values). o.A., Kosmetik-Tests, Stiftung Warentest, 07/89 U. Zeidler, Einfluß des pH-Werts von Körperreinigungsmitteln auf die Hautquellung, Forschung Klinik Praxis, 1989 The epidermis, especially the horny layer, frequently comes into contact with cosmetic cleansing agents containing surfactants. Interactions are characterized among other things by swelling processes. Swelling was investigated on isolated pig epidermis which had been treated with different surfactants at varying pH-values. With increasing pH-value, anionic surfactants increased epidermal swelling, whereas it decreased by treatment with cationic surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants increased swelling in both acid and basic solution and formed a minimum in the neutral range. The degree of ethoxylation, the chain lengh and the type of anionic group changed the swelling behaviour characteristically at varying pH value. The results obtained show that swelling, as an osmotic process, is primarily attributable to ionic interactions between the surfactant ions and the amphoteric protein structure, but it is also influenced by hydrophobic interactions. Increased swelling of the superficial skin layer can favor the extraction of lipids and moisturizing factors, thereby promoting dryness and roughness of the skin. Therefore, the knowledge of the swelling behaviour can contribute to the development of improved cleansing agents leading to minimal swelling. M. Gehse, pH-Wert der jungen und der reifen Haut und seine Beeinflussung durch waschaktive Substanzen, Kosmetik International 08/89 L. Nogueira, D. Gabrielle, New techniques to assay skin care products, D & CI 09/89 Elsner, Maibach, Ein PC/AT - gestütztes Datenerfassungssystem für das Hautphysiologielabor, Workshop „Computer in der Dermatologie“, 6.10.1989 Für die quantitative Untersuchung physiologischer Parameter des Hautorgans wurde eine Reihe nichtinvasiver Methoden entwickelt, die Anwendung v.a in der Dermatopharmakologie und der Dermatotoxikologie gefunden haben. Zu diesen Methoden zählen die Evaporimetrie zur Messung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes, konduktive und kapazitative Verfahren zur Messung des epidermalen Wassergehaltes und die Messung der Hautdurchblutung mittels des Laser-Doppler- Verfahrens. Die Reproduzierbarkeit von Evaporimeter- und Laser-Doppler-Messungen wird durch dynamische Veränderungen der Meßgrößen beeinträchtigt. Ferner fallen bei experimentellen Studien mit den genannten Geräten erhebliche Datenmengen an, deren manuelle Erfassung unökonomisch ist. Wir haben daher ein Datenerfassungssystem emtwickelt, mit dem die Meßwerte von Hautoberflächen- Thermistor, Evaporimeter, Kapazitometer, pH-Meter und Laser-Doppler direkt in ein Spreadsheet auf einem PC eingelesen und sofort statistisch ausgewertet werden können. Hardwareseitig besteht das System aus einem AT-kompatiblen Computer mit 2 seriellen Schnittstellen und einem Metrabyte DAS-16-A/D-Board, das die simultane Erfassung von bis zu 16 Datenkanälen erlaubt. An Software werden Lotus 1-2-3 und Lotus Measure eingesetzt. Der Aufbau des Systems und Einsatzmöglichkeiten werden erläutert. S. Bonazzi, Gazzaniga, Skin plastoelasticity modifications due to application of a reconstructed moisturizing compound, 3 rd international congress on cosmetic dermatology, Wien, 27.-29.10.1989 M. Rieger, Skin, water and moisturization, Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol. 104, 12/89 Van Neste, L. Ghys, J.L. Antoine, J.P. Riboux, Pharmacological modulation by Cetirizine and Atropine of the Histamine - and Methacholine- Induced wheals and flares in human skin, Skin Pharmacology Reprint, Vol. 2 No. 2 (pp. 93 - 102) 1989 H\litlist\studies 12/06 11 This study was planned to verify wether different methods for the measurement of skin reactivity, i.e., wheal and flare area, wheal trickness, skin capacitance and transepidermal water loss, were or were not able to discriminate between intradermally injected agonists (histamine and methacholine). For evaluating agonist/antagonist interactions, we adopted a cross-over, double- blind, placedo-controlled study designed to compare the effects of cetirizine and atropine. The intradermal injection of agonists elicited the appearance of wheal and flare reactions and, after histamine, the skinfold thickness was significantly increased. Skin capacitance and transepidermal water loss measurements reflected sweat gland activation after methacholine injection but were, respectively, not or less affected by histamine dry skin prick test or saline; hence, both methods appear very sensitive for in vivo testing of cholinomimetic agents. Cetirizine inhibited all the specific skin modifications induced by histamine challenge, wheals, flares and increase thickness, without affecting the methacholine-induced perspiration. This would further support the H1 specificity of this anti-H1 agent in vivo. However, at the agonist/antagonist ratios tested in view of the safety of the test persons, we were unable to objectivate methacholine blockade by atropine. H. Nougaigui, J.L. Antoine, M.L. Masmudi, van Neste, J.M. Lachapelle, Étude invasive et non- invasive du pouvoir protecteur d´une crème siliconée et de son excipient vis-à-vis de l´irritation cutanée induite par le laurylsulfate de sodium, Ann. Dermatol. Venereol. 116:1989, S. 389 - 398 Invasive and non-invasive studies of the protective effect of a silicone-containing cream and its vehicle on cutaneous irritation induced by sodium laurylsulphate. The purpose of our study was to evaluate the protective effect of a new silicone-containing barrier-cream (Anthydro TM) and its vehicle (AnthydroTM without silicone) in the prevention of cutaneous irritation by detergents: We therefore planned a study in several stages, using an anionic surfactant well known for its irritant properties: sodium laurylsulphalte (SLS) in aqueous solution. In a first series of experiments, the protective effect of the AnthydroTm cream against SLS was studied by invasive methods on guinea- pigs in order to determine histologically the protective effect of the cream when a 10 p.100 SLS solution was applied on the skin under occlusion during 24 hours (Square chambersTm, Van der Bend). Typical and reproducible lesions were apparent, and the protected sites were compared with the unprotected sites. In parallel, we used non-invasive methods (conductivity, transepidermal water loss and cutaneous blood flow) to determine in humans the protective effect of AnthydroTm cream in comparison with unprotected sites after application during 24 hours of patches soaked with a 5 p. 100 SLS solution on the foreams of 13 adult and healthy volunteers (Silver patch testsTm, Van der Bend). In both experiments the AnthydroTm cream was effective in reducing the SLS- induced cutaneous irritation. In a second series of experiments, the AnthydroTm barrier-cream was compared with its “base” (AnthydroTm without silicone) in terms of effectiveness, following the same experimental procedure (invasive on guinea-pigs, and non-invasive on humans). The base was shown to be effective in protecting against irritation. However, the histological lesions were less intense when the skin was protected by AnthydroTm than by its vehicle. Concerning the non-invasive methods in humans, no signifiant statistical differences appeared in the measurement of various parameters between the sites protected by AnthydroTm and the sites protected by the vehicle. These results lead us to suggest the existence of an essentially mechanical protective effect in which the silicone plays a very small part in terms of effectiveness. These experimental results necessitates further investigations to be extrapolated to occupational conditions without test performed in industries and well-conducted epidemiological investigations. J.L. Antoine, J.L. Contreras, D. van Neste, ph Influence on surfactant-induced skin irritation, Dermatosen in Beruf und Umwelt, Band 37, 1989, 3, 96 - 100 Even though various experimental methods have been proposed for in vitro testing of detergents such as SLS ( sodium laurylsulfate) no absolutely relevant clinical information can be inferred from them as to the irritancy of a given compound. In particular the relative importance of pH needs further assessment. This study reports on in vivo evaluation of skin function changes under given experimental conditions with SLS applied at 3 different pH values. There is a dramatic increase of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), i.e. a substantial reduction in the barrier function of the skin, when SLS is applied under occlusion for 48 H. The alkaline control solution (NaOH pH 9) induced low- H\litlist\studies 12/06 12 grade, but significant TEWL increases, as compared to the other controls ( distilled water pH7; HCl pH5), which had no influence on TEWL. The changes obtained with the controls were much lower than those observed with SLS. The barrier-function changes induced by the surfactant SLS could, however, promote transepidermal passage of acid and/or alkaline molecules, hence increasing toxic damage of the skin; yet no such effects could be observed, indicating that the main effects are due to detergency. Assessment of cutaneous blood flow values (CBFV) by laser Doppler velocimetry showed increased values after SLS. When pH-adjusted SLS solutions were compared, there was neither a difference in relation to pH nor did the control solutions induce any significant CBFV change. This study reveals that TEWL and CBFV are probably the most reliable methods to investigate acute irritancy by SLS. Accordingly, pH cannot be considered as a major contributive factor of irritancy when SLS solutions are applied under occlusion (48H). The current level of sebaceous secretion and the electrical properties of the skin surface were not parameters to evaluate acute SLS-induced skin damage, but longitudinal studies are presently being conducted in order to assess their significance in monitoring epidermal repair after SLS insults. K. Schrader, Optimierung eines kosmetischen Pflegeproduktes auf die menschliche Haut, H+G Zeitschrift für Hautkrankheiten 12/89 After explaining the idea and purpose of cosmetic products, we report on the course of development these products usually take: marketing briefing, selection of the raw materials, serial experiments and stability tests, and finally, dermatophysiological efficacy tests. In particular, we deal with the application of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and its moisturing and smoothing effect on human skin. Our results are discussed in details. K.H. Schrader und St.Bielfeld, Vergleichende experimentelle Untersuchungen zwischen Hautoberflächenprofil und der Hautfeuchtigkeit, Parfümerie und Kosmetik, Nr 2/89 Kosmetische Wirkungen von Pflegeprodukten an der menschlichen Haut sind oft sehr gering und demzufolge auch nicht so einfach nachzuweisen. Häufig ist es deshalb nicht möglich, diese geringen Veränderungen anhand eines Prüfkriteriums zu dokumentieren. Zu den wichtigsten Parametern zur Charakterisierung der kosmetischen Hautwirkungen ist die Hautrauhigkeit sowie die Hautfeuchtigkeit von großer Bedeutung. V. Rogiers, Assessment of skin surface hydration: the need for standardized conditions in capacitance measurements, Lecture held at the congress of CIE Cosmetic Ingredients Europe, 21.- 23.03.1990, Wiesbaden The practical usefulness of the CORNEOMETER CM 820, a commercially available apparatus for measuring stratum corneum moisture content, has been evaluated on the skin of normal volunteers. Factors such as cleaning procedure intragroup and regional variations, temperature and humidity have been examined. Under well-defined conditions of skin cleaning, environmental temperature and relative humidity large site-to-site variations occurred. However when selected areas, ¼, 2/4 and ¾ on the forearm, were studied, constant hydration values were measured for the individual spots for at least 1 month, although they differed significantly among each other. On the contrary, corresponding areas on the right and left forearm had exactly the same hydration value for at least 1 month. When the efficacy of moisturizing creams has to be tested, well-defined areas of one forearm may serve as controls, whereas on the corresponding areas of the other forearm the samples may be applied. Age seemed to be an important additional factor influencing skin hydration, whereas gender had no effect. When the efficacy of moisturizing creams was tested it appeared that some w/o creams had a significantly higher effect than o/w creams and this was dependent on the skin type involved. Creams with 10% glycerol exhibited significantly higher hydration values than those without. In conclusion, simple capacitance measurements are very useful for assessment of skin surface hydration on the condition that standardized conditions are rigorously taken into account. W. Gehring, M.Gloor Die Bedeutung des pH-Wertes bei der Hautreinigung (The importance of the pH in skin cleansing), Parfümerie + Kosmetik, 04/90 The irritant potential of the pH was determined according to morphological criteria by using frozen sections of human skin. In vivo the dehydrating effect on the cornea was analysed by means of H\litlist\studies 12/06 13 corneometry and infrared spectroscopy after washing the skin with a surfactant solution adjusted to different pH values. No morphological changes were produced in the range of pH 4-pH 8. The least dehydration of the cornea was caused by surfactant solutions which were adjusted to an acidic pH. C. Artmann, M. Ghyczy, H.G. Pratzel, J. Röding, Influence of various liposome preparations on skin humidity, Parfümerie + Kosmetik, 05/90 The influence of similar liposome dispersions with varying phospholipid composition on the hydration of the skin was investigated by measurements of the capacitive resistance in human skin. The phospholipids influence the hydration behaviour of the liposomes on the skin. Celleno, Valutazione dermatologica dei prodotti per la detersione della cute, Cosmesi Dermatologica, 30/1990 The authors report the results and the methods of the dermatological and cosmetological evaluation of 16 solid products for cleaning the skin (traditional soaps, neutral soaps, syndets).There is a growing need for valid and reliable tests to evaluate the cosmetic properties and the safety of cosmetics. Data obtained in this field will contribute to the protection of both the consumer and the cosmetic industry. G. Campagnoli, L. Celleno, S. Grifeo, A.G. Nume, C. Ronchi, Valutazione dell´attivita sebonormalizzante di un´emulsione a base di lipoaminoacidi, Cosmesi Dermatologica 39/1990 Aim of the present study is to investigate thoroughly a new class of compounds, the lipoamino-acids. These are molecules with sebum-normalizing and antimicrobial activity, useful in the cosmetologic treatment of seborrheic and preacneic skin. The experience is based on the instrumental measurement of sebumetry and pH-metry in 21 subjects, selected according to sebometric parameters above the physiologic limits (group A), and on the evaluation of the onset of allergic symptoms in 20 different subjects (group B) following 27 day treatment with a suitable preparation. Results show a sebum- normalizing activity also following 7 day treatment, with no case of intolerance and/or sensitization. C. Torresani, Utilizzo del fango termale sulfureo nel trattamento della cute seborroica, Cosmesi Dermatologica, 1990 In the present study the efficacity of mud containing sulphurous thermal water, in the treatment of the face seborrheic skin was evaluated. The results provided evidence for effectiveness as well as tolerability of the treatment. Mechanism by which sulfur and, in particular, sulphurous thermal mud operate in the sebaceous secretion are discussed with regard to literature data. Rigano, Evaluation of sebum build-up on scalp: washing frequencies and tensioactive strength, 8 th international symposium “Bioengineering and the skin”, Stresa / Italia, June 90 The right hygiene conditions for hair and scalp are not clearly related to definite washing frequencies, and it is generally accepted by dermatologists that a delicate shampoo composition cannot be harmful to the scalp equilibrium, even with frequent or daily washes. It is still controversial whether the so- called “rebound effect” has any relation with shampoo frequencies and to interactions with the sebaceous glands activity. Sebum production and the sebaceous secretions spreading on hair and scalp has been evaluated after daily detersion with shampoo compositions of different irritative potentials. Other washing frequencies have been also controlled: every 4-5 days and 9-10 days. Sebumetry, bulb observation and optical properties of hair have also been checked. A relationship is outlined among shampoos irritative power, qualitative and quantitative sebum secretions and washing frequencies. Mild shampoo formulations do not show any influence on sebaceous secretions, even at high detersion frequencies. A.O.Barel, Non-invasive measurement of the viscoelastic properties of human skin with the suction method, 8 th international symposium “Bioengineering and the skin”, Stresa / Italia, June 1990 Elsner, Mechanical properties of human vulvar skin, 8 th international symposium “Bioengineering and the skin”, Stresa / Italia, June 1990 H\litlist\studies 12/06 14 Using a newly developed suction device, the mechanical properties of forearm and vulvar skin were studied in 22 healthy women, 12 before and 10 after the menopause. The ratio between viscous deformation (Uv) and elastic deformation (Ue) and the biological elasticity, i.e. the ratio between immediate recovery (Ur) and total deformation (Uf), were both significantly lower in vulvar than in foream skin. Ur/Uf decreased significantly with load in vulvar, but not in foream skin, whereas Uv/Ue was not load-dependent in either site. Uv/Ue remained constant with age in both test sites, whereas Ur/Uf was significantly lower in post-menopausal women in both foream and vulvar skin. In vulvar, but not in forearm skin, Uv/Ue was significantly correlated with body height which may be an indicator of mechanical connective tissue properties. Viscous deformation plays a lesser role and biological elasticity is decreased in vulvar compared to foream skin. Despite differences in mechanical parameters at both sites, age-related changes seem to be similar. Teresa Anfossi, Influence of environment factors on skin elastometric patterns, 8 th international symposium “Bioengineering and the skin”, Stresa / Italia, June 1990 G. Jemec, Relation between scaling evaluated by the D-SQUAMETM Tape and skin hydration evaluated by capacitance measurement, 8 th International Symposium “Bioengineering and the skin”, Stresa / Italia, June 1990 F. Pouzaud, Pharmaskin ou la reconquête de la cosmétologie, PraxiPharm, 04.10.1990 R. Mehl, La cosmétologie active arrive à l´officine, Le quotidien du Pharmacien, 08.10.1990 o.A., La méthode Pharmaskin, L´écho des labos, 27.10.1990 Frank Hevert, Kenngrößen eines betrieblichen Hautreinigungsmittels, Arbeitsmedizin, Sozialmedizin, Präventivmedizin, 08/90 F.P., Reconquérir la cosmétologie, Le moniteur, 13.10.1990 o.A., Biométrologie cutanée, Actualités Pharmaceutiques, Nov. 1990 Ing-Marie Bergbrant, Jan Faergemann, The role of Pityrosporum ovale in Seborrheic Dermatitis, Seminars in Dermatology, 12/90 This paper discusses the relation between the lipophilic dimorphic yeast Pityrosporum ovale and seborrheic dermatitis. A review of studies concerning the microbiology in seborrheic dermatitis and immune reactions to P ovale are given. In our own studies with quantitative cultures, no significant difference was found in the number of P ovale in patients compared with controls, or between healthy and lesional skin in the patient group. IgG serum antibodies against P ovale cells estimated with indirect immunofluorescence did not show any difference between patients and controls, but a significant difference was found when a P Ovale protein extract and ELISA were used. Immunological investigation on serum samples were done on 30 patients with seborrheic dermatitis. Defects were found in their T-cell function. The number of Povale is of importance in those individuals who are susceptible to seborrheic dermatitis and the development of the disease depends on the way their immune system reacts to the antigens derived from P Ovale. A.B. Cua, H.I. Maibach, K.P. Wilhelm, Elastic properties of human skin: relation to age, sex and anatomical region, Dermatologica Research, 1990 Using a recently developed noninvasive, in vivo suction device for measuring skin elasticity, we evaluated age, sex, and regional differences in the visco-elastic properties of skin. A total of 33 volunteers participated in the study consisting of (a) 8 young females, (b) 9 old females, (c) 8 young males and (d) 8 old males. Measurements were performed on 11 anatomical regions; three different loads were applied: 100, 200, and 500mbar. The parameters used were: immediate distension (Ue); delayed distension (Uv); immediate retraction (Ur) ; and, final deformation (Uf). To compare between subjects and anatomical regions, relative parameters independent of skin thickness were calculated: Uv/Ue, the ratio between the viscoelastic properties of skin and immediate distension, and Ur/Uf, which measures the ability of the skin to regain its initial position after deformation. Generally, Uv/Ue increased while Ur/Uf decreased with aging. Responses were variable with respect to load applied. H\litlist\studies 12/06 15 Variability, within anatomical regions was also noted. However, differences between the sexes were not statistically significant for most regions. These findings are in congruence with earlier studies suggesting the differences are mainly attributable to alterations in the elastic fiber network. This procedure provides a simple, quantitative assessment of elastic properties of the skin. Its application may help in future investigations of other connective tissue disorders. Seiler, Rückfettung: Balsam für die Altershaut, Moderne Geriatrie, 03/91 A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, Ann de Romsée, Wessels, Non-invasive electrical measurements for evaluating the water content of the horny layer: comparison between capacitance and conductance measurements, Abstracts of the Conference on Prediction of Percutaneous Penetration, Brussels, 10.-12.04.1991 The measurement of the hydration state of the stratum corneum is an important factor in dermato- cosmetic research. This parameter is used for characterization of skin surface and for the evaluation of the efficacy of skin moisturing products. Different electrical measurements were developed for studying skin hydration. When applying an alternating voltage to the skin, the horny layer behaves similar to a simple electric circuit where a resistor and a capacitor are connected in parallel. The sensitivity, performance and practical use of one instrument which measures mainly the contribution of the capacitance properties of the skin (Corneometer) was compared with an instrument which measures the contribution of the conductance properties of the skin (Skicon). An evaluation of the efficacy of moisturing preparations (O/W and W/O emulsions) on the skin was carried out in vivo using two types of instruments. The influence of environmental factors such as the relative humidity was evaluated by measuring the same skin under increasing relative humidity ( from 30 to 80%). D. van Neste, Comparative study of normal and and rough human skin hydration in vivo: Evaluation with four different instruments, Journal of Dermatological Science, 1991 Appropriate monitoring of skin hydration during clinical and/or experimental trials needs devices with acceptable reproducibility and sensitivity under conditions ranging from increased, and normal to low hydration. The aim of this study was to compare the variation of electrometric data generated by 4 different instruments (Skicon Hygrometer, 2 CM420 and a CM820 corneometer) in normal and experimentally damaged skin displaying surface roughness. Rough skin sites were observed during the healing process after repeated tape stripping of stratum corneum in humans (e.g. 10-14 days after insult). They displayed lower conductance and /or capacitance levels as compared to normal skin sites of the same subjects. The Skicon hygrometer showed higher variability as compared to the corneometers and was less sensitive, in relative terms, in the rough skin sites. This device also showed a moderate zero drift and re-zeroing was repeatedly utilized during the experiment. When the corneometer data were plotted against the hygrometer data, the slope of the regression line generated by the CM420a was different from CM420b and from CM820; the two latter were not significantly different from each other. Hence, comparison of absolute data obtained under comparable conditions (in this case CM420a and CM420b) in a single laboratory should not be made without prior calibration. Standards for evaluating interinstrumental variation are currently unavailable.This aspect of the measurement of electrical properties of the skin has not been investigated in great details and has often been neglected in the past. Our findings also indicate that a constant control over the performances of a particular device should further improve the reliability of the data. R. Böhm, M. Ghyczy, S. Hager, The influence of liposomes from Soybean, lecithin on the efficacity of fungicides, Internationales Symposium über Pflanzenschutz, University Gent/Belgium, 07.05.1991 Lecithin is a mixture of phospholipids and oil that arises during the processing of oil seeds. Phospholipids are components of all living organism. They fulfill two functions: • the emulsification of water insoluble substances, for example in blood and in the digestive tract; • the formation of compartments as the major component of biological membranes. Phospholipids are one of the most commonly used emulsifiers in foodstuffs. Liposomes are vesicles in water H\litlist\studies 12/06 16 comprised of phospholipids organized in double membranes, the same organization as occurs in biological membranes. Liposomes have become of practical significance in medicine and cosmetics. In this study, liposomes were produced from soya lecithin and were tested in the treatment of grape vines. The liposome dispersion was used as an additive in the spray cocktail at a concentration of 0,4%. A. del Pozo, Carras Cosa, Dispensacion dermofarmaceutica: Apoyo technologico al rol del Farmaceutico, Departemento de farmacia, Unitad docente de Farmacia Galenica, Universidad de Barcelona, 1991 E.Fiquet, J.P. Marty, C.M. Vincent, Études des propriétés hydratantes de la crème hydratante Visage Neutrogena, Réalités Thérapeutiques en Dermato-Vénérologie, 31.10.1991 V. Parison, Validation d´une nouvelle méthode de mesure de l´élasticité cutanée: le Cutometer. Application à l´étude de l´effet de l´hydratation sur les propriétés biomécaniques de la peau, Thèse pour le diplôme de docteur en Pharmacie, 29.11.1991 Elsner, Maibach, AT-based Data Aquisition and Analysis System for the Skin Bioengineering Laboratory, 1991 In recent years, bioengineering instruments have found wide application for the non-invasive evaluation of functional properties of human skin. These devices measure transepidermal water loss (evaporimetry), skin hydration (methods based on conduction, impedance, and capacitance), skin blood flow (laser Doppler velocimetry, photoplethysmography), friction (friction meter), and mechanical properties (e.g. twistometer, suction devices), and allow the investigator to generate considerable data which requires documentation and analysis. Although some instruments meanwhile offer interfaces for the transfer of data into personal computers, integrated data acquisition systems supporting the whole spectrum of instruments used in the laboratory are lacking. We have developed an inexpensive data acquisition and analysis system for our skin bioengineering laboratory which allows the acquisition of data from several instruments simultaneously or in sequence. The data are fed into a spreadsheet on a personal computer and conversions and basic statistics are computed automatically. The system consists of an AT-compatible PC with two serial interfaces and an analog- digital conversion board. The software is an industry-standard spreadsheet (Lotus 1-2-3) with an instrument set (Lotus Measure). Using this system, we considerably improved the precision of our measurements and the scientific productivity in our skin bioengineering laboratory. Check-up Cosmetologique et Biometrologie Cutanee, Special Dermo-cosmétologie, No. 289, Juillet 1991 La notion de « Check-Up » cutane a toujours exprime un souci de rigueur pour definir des besoins cutanes et des reponses performantes. Une logique, aujourd’hui scientifique, qui s’assuie sur des connaissances precises de la physiologie cutanee pour interpreter les differents etats de la peau et proposer de veritables methodes de correction; c’est l’avenement d’une cosmetologie de soins, rigoureuse. F.Mérot, J.P. Borthier, P. Denis, Ph. Masson, Incidence du diametre de la sonde sur les mesures d’elasticite cutanee, Congres SFC-ISIPCA, Versailles (France), 16-18 Novembre 1992 Pour chaque catégorie de peau l’étirement maximal moyen augmente en fonction du diamètre de la sonde / selon la classification adoptée, l’étirement maximal moyen est significantivement plus important pour la catégorie « peaux relachées » / la dispartié des résultats individuels obtenus avec les trois sondes suggére l’impliation de structures cutanées différentes. P. Agache, P. Creidi, B. Faivre, Assessment of skin hydration and softening effects of colloidal oat fraction containing cream, J. Appl. Cosmet. 1-6, Jan.- March 1992 A concentrated colloidal oat fraction in a O/W cream has been compared with a reference O/W emollient cream for stratum corneum hydrating and skin surface softening effects in a double-blind H\litlist\studies 12/06 17 randomized study in 10 healthy female volunteers whose skin had been made dry and irritated by repeated applications of sodium dodecylsulfate. Stratum corneum hydration was assessed through conductance measurements. Skin surface smoothness was evaluated through a visual plus tactile subjective assay and by profilometry of skin surface casts. All methods demonstrated recovery of the skin following one week’s treatment with either product. This improvement was sustained a week later. It is concluded that the tested oat extract enriched cream has a hydrating and softening effect on the skin surface which is “similar or superior to that of a conventional O/W strongly moisturizing cream”. Y. Guiserix, La vente scientifique, Cosmetica Distribution, 02/92 P. Busch, K. Schumann, H. Verbeek, Die Entwicklung der Hautkosmetik in den letzten 25 Jahren, Parfümerie + Kosmetik 02/92 A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, C. Eeckhout, P. Gross, J. Taeymans, Influence of short daily exposure to thermal water on the hydration state of the skin, Threat to the Skin, 1992 A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, Ann de Romsée, B. Wessels, Misurazioni ellectriche non invasive per la misurazioni dell´idratazione dello strato corneo: confronto tra misure di capacià (capacitanza) e di conductibilità, Cosmetics & Toiletries 04/92 R.Wolf, E.Tur, D.Wolf, M.Landau, The effect of smoking on skin moisture and on surface lipids, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 14/92 In the present retrospective study we investigated the effect of smoking on the moisture and surface lipid levels of the skin. We analysed data from the files of 576 female clients treated in a Tel-Aviv cosmetic parlour. Measurements have been conducted by the same cosmetician, by commercially available equipment, on every client receiving cosmetic treatment, regardless of the nature of the treatment. Results demonstrated a significant difference of skin moisture in the various smoking groups: women who smoked 11-20 cigarettes per day showed significantly lower mean values than the non-smoker group, as expected. Moreover, women before or after menopause showed no significant differences in their moisture measurements. The surface lipid variables showed no significant differences in mean over the four smoking groups. We believe that the objective of the study was achieved, and that the results, indicating decreased skin moisture in smokers, will serve well in anti- smoking campaigns. We also believe that the present study will stimulate other investigators to conduct similar studies that will provide answers to many questions which still remain open. o.A., Quantitative evaluation of sebaceous secretion on the forehead: comparison between the SebumeterTM and a microporous film (SebutapeTM), 9 th international symposium “Bioengineering and the skin”, Sendai / Japan, 19.-20. October 1992 The Sebutape technique seems to be a reliable and as fast procedure to obtain numerical values concerning the amount of skin surface lipids. The technique with the Sebutape is more time consuming but has the advantage to examine a greater surface of the skin, to protect the evaluated region and the Sebutape leaves the possibility for further quantitative lipid determination. Direct scanning of the Sebutape instead of scanning of an enlarged picture of the Sebutape results in a more standardised method with a greater surface that can be used for evaluation. The correlation between the Sebumeter and between the Sebutape technique increased from r=0,73 to r=0,94 when using direct scanning of the Sebutape instead of indirect scanning of the Sebutape. W. Gehring, M. Gloor, Angelika Post, Über den Einfluß der Hautwaschung auf den pH-Wert (About the effect of skin-washings on pH-value), Parfümerie + Kosmetik, 11/92 H\litlist\studies 12/06 18 A report is given about the effect of skin-washings with sodium lauryl sulfate on alkali-neutralisation, pH-value, moisture int he stratum corneum on the skin surface (infrared spectroscopy) and in the depth (corneometry). Capacity for alkaline neutralisation, pH-value and moisture in the depth of the stratum corneum normalized very slowly. In contrast, moisture in the upper stratum corneum normalized after only four hours. Repeated washings after two and five hours respectively did not lead to any significant changes in the mechanisms of regenerations. Changes of pH-value and moisture in the stratum corneum normalized in a similar way after the first and second washing. The relationship between the capacity of the skin for alkaline neutralisation and the water-binding substances in the depth of the stratum corneum is discussed. A. Cohen-Letessier, E. Fiquet, J.P. Marty, C.M. Vincent, Évaluation des propriétés de la crème hydrophile lipophile (Evaluation of a water/oil emulsion (Effadiane)), Les Nouvelles, 11/92 Effadiane is a water/oil emulsion, its effect on the skin hydration has been investigated in human volunteers by non invasive technics: the transepidermal water loss measurement to verify and occlusive effect, the corneometric measurement to demonstrate the direct water uptake by the horny layer. The emulsion persistency on the skin surface has been evaluated by sebumetry. Good correlation has been established between the hydration power and the persistency of the emulsion over time. Giorgio Mazzola, Gianfranco Secchi, Alessandro Teglia, Relationship between Chemical Characteristics and Cosmetic Properties of Protein Hydrolysates, 17 th IFSCC Congress, Yokohama / Japan, 10/92 More than 20 protein hydrolysates, taken from the market or especially prepared for the test, of animal and vegetable origin and with significantly different molecular characteristics were tested and compared with respect to three cosmetic properties: substantivity to hair, reduction of sodium laurylsulfate (SLS) irritation and foaming. Peptide adsorption on hair was evaluated on virgin and damaged tresses after incubation with 2,5% hydrolysate solutions, re-extraction with 50°C hot water and high ionic strength solution and quantification after fluorescamine reaction. Inhibition of induced SLS skin and eye irritation was evaluated by visual scoring, moisture content of the horny layer (Electric Capacitance, EC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements after skin chamber application and by Eytex methodology. Foaming properties were evaluated by standard Ross-Miles method. Molecular size, net charge and hydrophobicity were studied as important parameters affecting these cosmetic properties and were related to the origin of hydrolysates and the characteristics of the manufacturing process. Masahiro Nishimura and Takuo Tsuji, Measurements of Skin Elasticity with a New Suction Device - Relation to Age, Sex, Anatomical Region, Sun-Exposure and Comparison with Deseased Skin-, Jpn J Dermatol: 1111-1117, 1992 Using a recently developed in vivo suction device for measuring skin elasticity, we evaluated age, sex, and regional differences in the elastic properties. Skin elasticity decreased with aging at all anatomical regions. Differences between the anatomical regions in the same age groups were significant, but no significant differences were noted between the sexes. The measurements in patients with skin deseases (PSS and Ehlers-Danlos syndrome) showed interesting results. This procedure allows assessment of skin elasticity, and its application to deseased skin, particularily connective tissue disorders may be helpful for diagnosing, deciding progression and evaluating therapeutic effects. A. Barel, P. Clarys, In Vivo Evaluation of Skin Ageing: Relations between Viscoelastic Properties and Skin Surface Roughness Parameters, 9 th ISBS Meeting, Japan, October 19 +20, 1992 Ageing of the skin is clearly characterized by changes in a variety of physical parameters related to the dermis. We have studied the influence of age on the mechanical properties of the skin and on skin roughness. Both physical properties are correlated with modifications in the structure of the papillary and reticular dermis. H\litlist\studies 12/06 19 P.G. Agache, D. Varchon, Ph. Humbert, A. Rochfort, Non-Invasive Assessment of Biaxial Young’s Modulus of Man in Vivo, 9 th ISBS Meeting, Japan, October 19 +20, 1992 The elastic modulus (E) is a major parameter of the skin mechanical behaviour. Unfortunately up to now only its variation could be currently estimated in vivo, and without access to absolute differences. P.J. Frosch, A. Kurte, Efficacy of Skin Barrier Creams, Contact Dermatitis,1993 An improved human model for the quantification of skin barrier creme (BC) is described. In contrast to the previously published procedure the back instead of the forearm and a total of 4 irritants are used. Due to the larger area 3 BC formulations can be simulaneously compared to the control field which received the irritant only without BC-pretreatment. On 10 human volunteers the irritants 10% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), 1% sodium hydroxide (NaOH), 30% lactic acid (LA) and undiluted toluene (TOL) were applied via large Finn chambers for 30min, 5x during the first week and 4x during the second one. Taktosan Salbe (water-in-oil emulsion) and RAWI speerschutzcreme (oil-in-water emulsion) had been applied 30 min before contact with the irritants. In order to assess reproducibility and interindividual variation the BC RAWI was tested in duplicate. Irritant cutaneous reactions were quantified by 4 parameters: erythema score, transepidermal water loss, blood flow volume and stratum corneum hydration by measuring capacitance. The results showed marked differences in efficacy. Taktosan suppressed significantly the irritation of SLS, NaOH and LA, apparent in nearly all parameters. RAWI caused significant inhibition of the SLS irritation and a positive trend against NaOH and LA was observed. Both BC failed against TOL. The results of the suplicate testing with RAWI showed a good reproducibility. The dogma that oil-in-water emulsions are primarily effective against lipophilic irritants and water-in-oil emulsions against hydrophilic ones needs to be re-evaluated on the basis of our findings. This model seems to have potential for further studies on BC and might elucidate the complex interaction of BC with irritants. K.P. Wilhelm, A.B. Cua, H.I. Maibach, In Vivo Study on Age-Related Elastic Properties of Human Skin, Noninvasive Methods for the Quantification of Skin Functions, 1993;190:203 G. Yosipovitch, E. Tur, O. Cohen, Y. Rusecki, Skin Surface pH in Intertriginous Areas in NIDDM Patients, Diabetes Care, Volume 16, No. 4, April 1993 We measured the skin surface pH and moisture in the axillary, inframammary, inguinal, and forearm skin with a pH meter with a flat-glass electrode and skin corneometer. The subjects were 50 NIDDM patients from the diabetic outpatient clinic at Bellinson Medical Center, Petah Tiquva, Israel, and 40 healthy control subjects from hospital personnel. The main outcome measures were skin surface pH, skin moisture, and skin culture for Candida. A.Triebskorn,M.Gloor, Noninvasive Methods for the Determination of Skin Hydration, “Noninvasive Methods for Quantification of Skin Functions”, 1993 In 1953, Blank showed that water makes up 10%-20% of the stratum corneum. As soon as the amount of water decreases below 10%, the skin develops a rough and dry looking appearance. Kligman in 1963, maintained that the lipids of the skin surface were of no essential significance for the appearance of the horny layer, rather that the appearance of the skin is mainly due to the water content of the horny layer. Based on the postulated affiliation between stratum corneum hydration and the macroscopic aspect of the skin, diverse methods for assessing horny layer hydration have been developed. H. Tronnier, Wirksamkeitsnachweis für Kosmetika, SÖFW-Journal, 119. Jahrgang, 5/1993 Ein Wirksamkeitsnachweis ist, wie zahlreiche Publikationen beweisen, oftmals selbst in der Medizin nicht einfach. Gelingt er noch bei einem Vergleich eines wirkstoffhaltingen Präparates gegen ein Placebo, so ist oft ein Unterschied in der Effektivität zwischen zwei wirkstoffhaltigen Präparaten nicht mehr zu finden oder wenigstens nicht mehr statistisch zu sichern. H\litlist\studies 12/06 20 R. Nöring, J .Stork. B. Born, B. Labrot, H. Mann, P. Saake, M. Spallek, Transepidermaler Wasserverlust bei Atopie, Dermatosen 41, Heft 3, 1993 Bei 279 Meitarbeitern wurde der Atopie-Score bestimmt, an vier verschiedenen Körperstellen (Unterarmstreckseite, Unterarmbeugeseite, Handrücken und Handfläche) wurde der Transepidermale Wasserverlust (TEWL) gemessen. Es zeigt sich, daß der Atopie-Score und der TEWL unabhängige Größen sind. V. Bousquet, D. Redoules, I. Raynal, G. Dahlem, Y. Gall, Les principales techniques d’objectivation des effets des dermo-cosmétiques, Cosmétologie, 1993 La mise au point de produits dermo-cosmétiques de plus en plus performants grâce aux progrès de la galénique a entraîné le développement d’un ensemble de méthodes d’évaluation visant à mesurer leurs effets directement sur la peau et de la manière la plus objective. R. Marks,C. Edwards, Methods to aid the coice of shade from a range of colour disguise cosmetics, University of Wales College of Medicine, 26 May 1993 The range of cosmetic camouflage products for major disfiguring skin conditions are well known, and are available in a wide range of shades. They require considerable skill and training for their blending and application which also needs a finishing layer of powder for best effect. These products are admirably suited to their use on major blemishes, but would be difficult to apply by a consumer at home for minor blemishes. A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, Study of the Stratum Corneum barrier function by Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. Comparison between two commercial instruments: Evaporimeter® and Tewameter®, (Studio sulla funzione barriera dello strato corneo per mezzo della perdita di umidita´per traspirazione cutanea (TEWL). Confronto tra due strumenti: Evaporimeter® e Tewameter®), Cosmetics & Toiletries Ed.It.n. 1/94 The measurement of Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is an important non invasive method for assessing the efficiency of the skin as a protective barrier. As a consequence, the measurement of TEWL provides information concerning the integrity of the epidermis in normal, irritated and diseased skin situations, concerning the effects of chemicals on the surface of the skin and concerning the objective evaluation of occlusive pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In the past different non invasive methods and instruments have been developed to measure TEWL. Until recently, the only commercial available TEWL instrument was the Evaporimeter® made by Servomed, Sweden, based on the open chamber evaporation gradient method. This widely used instrument, measures the water evaporation gradient developed from the skin surface in an open chamber system. Hygrosensors coupled with thermistors measure at two different distances from the skin surface, the water evaporation at the skin surface. Recently a new instrument based on the same principle of measurement of the water evaporation gradient in an open chamber, was developed and became commercially available: Tewameter TM 210® made by Courage+Khazaka, Germany. It is the purpose of this chapter to compare the two commercial instruments under identical experimental conditions. The following parameters will be comparatively analyzed and described: general technical description of the probes and the instruments, evaluation of the accuracy, reproducibility and range of TEWL measurements and a comparative study of some typical applications of TEWL measurements in dermato-cosmetic research. TEWL-measurements were carried out with both instruments after stripping, occlusion and the treatment with irritant detergents. Jeanne Duus Johansen, Dorte Ramsing, Gunhild Vejlsgaard and T. Agner, Skin barrier properties in patients with recessive x-linked ichthyosis, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 Recessive X-linked ichthyosis (RXLI) is scaling disorder of the skin with the biochemical abnormality known to be steroid sulphate deficiency. In epidermis levels of cholesterol are decreased and levels of cholesterol sulphate increased. The influence of this disturbed lipid composition of the epidermis with respect to skin barrier function was H\litlist\studies 12/06 21 examined in the present study. Skin response to patch testing with sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) 0.5% for 24 hours was evaluated in 13 patients with RXLI and 15 age- and sex-matched controls. Basal skin properties and skin response to SLS were studied by measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration (electrical capacitance), and erythema index. No statistically significant difference in basal TEWL was found between RXLI patients and controls. Skin hydration, as reflected by electrical capacitance of the skin, was significantly decreased in patients with RXLI. After exposure to SLS TEWL was significantly increased in control subjects as compared to ichthyosis patients (p=0.047). Increase in TEWL after SLS-exposure was statistically less for RXLI patients than for controls (p=0.0049). No statistically significant difference in erythema index was found between the two groups in basal values or in values obtained after SLS-exposure. The implication of the study is a better understanding of the skin barrier function in scaly disorders. A.M. Grunewald and M. Gloor, Value of barrier creams against skin damage due to repeated washings, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14- 16, 1994 The aim of our study was to evaluate the protective effect of barrier creams onto irritant contact dermatitis. Therefore the following skin function parameters were evaluated: corneal lipids (sebumetry), water content of the corneal layer (corneometry), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH of the skin, skin reddening (colorimetry) and skin blood flow (laser doppler flow). We did standardized washings of both arms on the first and the 8 th day. The subjects were asked to wash 5 times daily for one week. In a first study we evaluated the irritating effect of repeated washings with 0.01 mol/l sodium lauryl sulphate solution on 20 subjects. We were able to show that there is a more than 12 hours lasting change in skin function parameters after one week of repeated washings. Concerning corneometry, corneal lipids, tewl, pH and laser doppler flow there were highly significant differences before and after repeated washings (p<0.01). In a second study we evaluated the irritation reducing effect of 3 barrier creams on 15 subjects for each cream. Using the same method as in our first study, one selected arm was additionally treated with a barrier cream 5 times daily. Barrier creams had a highly significant (p<0.01) effect on laser doppler flow, corneometry and tewl. Nevertheless they were not able to offer complete protection. The different barrier creams showed significant differently positive effects onto skin function parameters. A. Kurte and P.J. Frosch, What is the optimal time course of application for barrier creams?, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 There is no scientific data on the optimal timing of barrier creams (BC) regarding the contact with the irritant. Most of all it is totally unclear whether the application before contact with the irritant is more effective than afterwards. Therefore we studied a popular BC (Atrix Handcreme, Beiersdorf) in our recently described Repetitive Irritation Test on human volunteers with four standard irritants and changed the mode of BC application as follows: 30 min before the irritant, 30 min before and 30 min after the irritant, and 30 min after the irritant only. On normal back skin of 10 volunteers the 4 irritants were applied via large Finn chambers for 30 min: 10% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) 1%, sodium hydroxide (NaOH), 30% lactic acid and undiluted toluene. Control fields received the irritant only. Cutaneous irritation was quantified by use of non-invasive bioengineering techniques (TEWL), blood flow volume, capacitance for stratum corneum hydration) and a clinical score for erythema. The results showed marked differences regarding the 3 types of application of BC. Overall, best protection was observed when the BC was applied before and after the irritants; significant differences vs control were found for nearly all parameters. The application before the irritant was almost as effective as before and after for SLS and NaOH, but markedly less effective for lactic acid. For the latter irritant the third mode of BC application (only afterwards) showed striking efficacy, but was least efficacious for the other irritants. The results demonstrate that the degree of inhibition of irritancy depends on the time sequence of BC application. Usage before and after the irritant may be more effective than only one application. For some irritants the application after the irritant may be just as effective as the application before. This observation may have important implications for work places where BC cannot be used before or during working hours. H\litlist\studies 12/06 22 Ch. Münzberger, U.F. Haustein and U. Elefant, Effects of UVA- and UVB-radiation on transepidermal water loss, water content of the horny layer and skin surface lipids, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 In the last year many studies have provided important new knowledge concerning the benefits and risks of skin exposure to sunlight and ultraviolet radiation, among them the acute and chronic effects on damage of the skin barrier. We examined the transepidermal water loss, the water content of the horny layer and the amount of skin surface lipids in relation to low dose UV-radiation. The transepidermal water loss was measured with the TEWAMETER TM 210 , the water content of the horny layer with the CORNEOMETER CM 820 and the skin surface lipids with the SEBUMETER SM 810 PC (all from Courage and Khazaka GmbH). The ultraviolet radiation of 25 healthy adults was performed with UVA (Philips TL-K 40W/09N) and UVB (Philips TL 20W/01). One time radiation with UVA as well as with UVB did not show significant changes on all measured biophysical parameters. Transepidermal water loss, the water content of the horny layer and the amount of skin surface lipids were not different before radiation and 5 minutes, 1, 2 and 24 hours after radiation. On the contrary cumulative radiations 4 times per week resulted in damage of the skin barrier and showed changes of the biophysical parameters measured. E. Tur, Z. Eshkol, Sarah Brenner and H.Il Maibach, The cumulative effect of subthreshold concentrations of irritants, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 The aim of the present study was to assess the cutaneous response to repetitive applications of subthreshold concentrations of the same irritant or a combination of irritants, using objective non- invasive measurements as well as visual scoring. Ten subjects were patch-tested to determine the minimal irritant dose (MID) to dilutions of aqueous sodium lauryl sulphate and lactic acid. Each subject was then patch-tested for a period of 24 h with half of MID of each chemical (10 patches of each). At 25 h additional patches were applied over the same sites, containing five successive twofold dilutions of each irritant, starting with half of MID. Each chemical was thus applied onto itself and onto the other chemicals as well. In addition, combinations of half the MID of each substance and twofold dilutions of the other were also applied for two consecutive periods of 24 h. At 25 and 49 h the cutaneous changes were monitored by using the non-invasive methods of laser Doppler flowmetry and reflectance spectrophotometry, in addition to visual scoring. No visual changes were detected, whereas significant differences between the various patch-testing combinations were detected by the instrumentation. Cutaneous blood flow over sites treated with half the MID of one substance increased upon an additional 24 h period of occlusion with half the MID of the other substance (p<0.05), and in several occasions even with a quarter of the MID. Repeated application of certain combinations of the substances resulted in an elevated blood flow as well. Reflectance spectrophotometric measurements gave similar results, with the additional finding of an elevation upon reapplication of the same substance (p<0.05).These results may provide initial insight into the interaction between the skin and irritants. Although no visual alterations could be detected, the noninvasive instruments were able to detect cutaneous responses to consecutive applications of subthreshold concentrations of various combinations of two chemical irritants. The detectable changes obtained with the addition of a quarter of the MID on top of half of it suggest an augmentation of the response. G.Zeller, N.Y. Schürer and G. Goerz, Patch testing of dental alloys, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 Complaints about “allergies to dental alloys” encounter frequently the dermatologists or dentists office. “Standardised patch tests” may then be performed on the patients back. However, the stratum corneum provides a barrier against transepidermal waterloss (TEWL) as well as unlimited penetration of chemicals. The quality of the barrier varies between the different regions of the body (oral, back, arm). In this context, we posed the question, whether the current standardised patch test procedure of dental alloys on the back is optimal. Therefore, we performed triplicate patch tests on 30 patients with “oral complaints to dental alloys”. Patch tests were applied on the back and the insides of both upper H\litlist\studies 12/06 23 arms. The skin surface of one arm was pre-treated with acetone wipes in order to disturb the stratum corneum barrier prior to the application of the patch test. The individual TEWL was measured prior and after to the acetone wipes. The patch test procedure was performed according to the recommendations of the German contact dermatitis group. Of the 30 patients tested, 15 patients revealed reactions to dental alloys. Thereof, 5 (33%) patients reacted in triplicate, 8 (53%) reacted only on their arms (duplicate) and 2 (13%) reacted only on the acetone-pre-treated arm. Reactions to benzoylperoxide (7), cadmiumchloride (6), sodiumthiosulfatoaurate (4) and zincchloride (4) were observed. We conclude, that patchtesting of dental alloys may better be performed on the upper arm, where the physiological stratum corneum is thinner, yet disruption of the epidermal barrier with acetone wipes in general, is not necessary to prevent false negative results on the back. Vera Rogiers and Diane Roseeuw, TEWL measurements in patch test assessment: The need for standardisation, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994. When soap, shower and shampoo formulations are brought in contact with skin, irritation may occur which can be assessed by TEWL measurements. Of utmost importance is that the methods involved are well standardised. The aim of this study was to develop such standardised conditions for TEWL measurements and patch testing. For TEWL measurements the TEWA-meter was used. Several of the factors studied play an important role: the measuring probe should be warmed up to body temperature (30.9 ± 1.0°C) before measurements are carried out; the pressure on the measuring probe must be kept constant; a shielding box should only be used when excessive air turbulence can occur; the location of the measurements site on the body is a variable. Corresponding places on the right left forearm exhibit the same TEWL; the environmental temperature and relative humidity must be kept constant; cleaning procedures of the skin may affect TEWL measurements. Factors of minor importance seem to be age and sex of the volunteers. Under standardised conditions the reproducibility of the TEWL measurements on the forearm of 20 female volunteers between 23-27 years old during one month was high: CV = 5% at the individual level and 10% at the group level. For patch testing different methods were compared taking into account the factors that affect TEWL measurements. When aqueous detergent solutions (1% sodium laurylsulfate (SLS) in desionised water was taken as a reference) were patch tested, factors affecting TEWL measurements were found to be the volume of the detergent solution on the patch, the occlusiveness of the dressing, the use of an appropriate blank, the occlusion time and the reading time after air exposure. When under these standardised conditions the irritancy potential of two new non-ionic surfactants, caprilyl/capryl glucoside and decyl glucoside, was measured on the forearm of 13 volunteers (female between 20-29 years old) versus the amphoteric surfactant cocoamidopropylbetaine and the anionic SLS, the following ranking was found: water < alkyl glucosides < betaine < SLS. S.M. John, U. Gödecke and H.J .Schwanitz, Bioengineering of the skin as a tool for primary prevention of occupational skin disease? A nine-months experience, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 Introduction: Which factors influence individual susceptibility to develop dermatitis in wetwork? Little is known so far, even less has been incorporated in legal requirements. To date, in Germany, youths at risk are presently - if at all - screened for irrelevant disorders like acne. An objective instrumentary for efficient pre-employment counselling in wetwork is needed. Methods: Prospective studies are the only valid study design when the role of endogenous factors such as “skin sensitivity” is to be investigated. A prospective cohort study in hairdressers’ apprentices was designed correlating anamnestic and clinical findings (e.g. Erlangen atopy score) with bioengineering methods (transepidermal water loss [TEWL], microcirculation [LDF], pH, sebum, temperature). The intended observation period is to be three years (full educational cycle), the observation intervals were 3 months in the first year of training, and will then be 6 months. Results: The results of the first nine months of the study are now available, including 4 investigations in 3-months-intervals in the first year of training, and will then be 6 months. H\litlist\studies 12/06 24 Results: The results of the first nine months of the study are now available, including 4 investigations in 3-months-intervals. So far 92 junior apprentices were investigated, 62 within the first 20 days of professional training. Within the observation period 25 (27%) developed moderate or severe occupational dermatitits at any one stage, 39 (43%) developed mild dermatitis, 28 (30%) apprentices did not develop dermatitis (yet). 6 of 92 left the profession for reasons other than the skin, 7 (8%) had to give up for occupational skin disease. Clinical parameters (Erlangen atopy-score) so far do not significantly correlate the development of contact dermatitis, nor do the investigated bioengineering parameters (including TWL) compared to unaffected controls. However, there was a significant increase of RWL within the first six months of training in “cases” and controls, which afterwards normalized in unaffected individuals. Conclusion: The aim of this study is to develop a skin sensitivity score (SSS) as an objective and predictive parameter in wetwork by combination of (a) clinical and (b) non-invasive bioengineering parameters. This aim has not yet been reached. More epidemiological data is needed. Work-related monitoring using bioengineering methods may become of importance for early diagnosis of occupational contact dermatitis. P.G.M. Van der Valk and G. Zarafonitis, Horny layer thickness as assessed functionally by sellotape stripping and transepidermal water loss does not predict sodium lauryl sulphate skin irritations, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14- 16, 1994 To elicit an irritant or allergic skin reaction a chemical has to penetrate the skin. The horny layer plays an important role as a barrier for most chemicals. Therefore it seems likely that horny layer barrier function is important in preventing allergic and irritant contact dermatitis. Differences in horny layer barrier function may account for differences in susceptibility to irritants. The thickness of the horny layer may be an important factor in barrier function. If it is assumed that by sellotape stripping a layer of corneocytes is removed with a constant thickness both between subjects and within subjects and permeability constants do not vary the thickness of the horny layer can be estimated according to Fick’s law by the number of strips needed to increase permeability. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been suggested as an indicator for horny layer barrier function. Stripping the skin with sellotape increases transepidermal water loss according to Fick’s law. We studied the correlation between the number of sellotape strips needed to remove a constant functional part of the horny layer as assessed by transepidermal water loss with the response of the skin to a standardised irritant stimulus. In 20 subjects a site on the volar side of the forearm was tapestripped until TEWL was 40 g/m²/h. On the contralateral side of the other forearms skin was patch tested 48 hours to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) 3%. Redness of the exposed skin was read semi-quantitatively on a 0-4 scale after the exposure. The results are presented in the table. Erythema 1.35 ± 0.67 r = 0.12* NS TEWL 43.97 ± 16.60 r = 0.15 NS Strips 29.25 ± 12.41 Mean erythema score, mean TEWL (g/m²/h) score and mean number of strips *Correlation coefficient between erythema and TEWL score with the number of strips (NS = not significant). The number of strips needed to increase TEWL till 40 g/m²/h did not predict skin irritation. The lack of correlation may be explained by: 1. Permeability constants vary significantly between subjects: • because the horny layer thickness and the quality of the barrier are inversely related for • sellotape stripping removes a layer with varying thickness inversely related to the barrier quality of the horny layer. 2. Other factors than differences in barrier function do account for differences in susceptibility to SLS. H\litlist\studies 12/06 25 B. Gabard, P. Treffel, F. Charton-Picard and R. Eloy, Irritant reactions on hairless micropig skin: A model for testing barrier creams, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 Occupational dermatoses are most numerous among recognized occupational diseases and their frequency is increasing. Skin barrier creams (SBC) are designed to prevent or reduce the irritancy or hazardous materials in the working and/or home environment. Used repeatedly, detergents, organic solvents or cutting oils presumed to be responsible for the development of numerous chronic irritant dermatitis. Many methods have been used to identify the potential protective efficacy of SBC but up to now, there is no widely accepted model. Main difficulties reside in the wide range of possible irritants and in the obvious need to reproduce the frequent repetition of a low-grade exposure. We looked for an animal model that would present the following characteristics: • pharmacological reactions similar to the ones of human skin, allowing a meaningful comparison of the irritant reactions to be made; • possibility of easily repeating applications of various concentrations of the irritants; • possibility of quantifying the irritation with non-invasive skin measurements techniques. For these purposes, we chose the Yucatan hairless micropig (YHP), the skin of which is known to be very close to human skin, at least morphologically. In a first preliminary stage, the following experiments were conducted: 1. Physiologic characterisation of the normal YHP skin with repeated measurements on different sites of skin colour (Minolta Chromameter), skin hydration (Courage + Khazaka Corneometer) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL; Servomed evaporimeter); 2. Measurements of the skin reactions to histamine (Pricktest), aqueous methylnicotinate, NaOH, aqueous Na-lauryl sulfate (NaLS) and toluene; 3. Occlusive application of different cutting oils. The results show the following similarities and differences with known properties of human skin: 1. YHP skin showed lower L*- and b*-, but similar a*-values, skin hydration slightly lower but TEWL similar compared to known Caucasian skin data. Site differences were detected. 2. Reactions to histamine, toluene and NaOH were well characterised and took place in a concentration range similar to the one used in corresponding experiments on human skin. This was also the case for NaLS, although the reaction showed a strong erythema, a decrease of hydration changes but little barrier impairment as measured with TEWL. YHP skin proved very insensitive to Methylnicotinate. 3. It was also shown that some cutting oils could provoke a measurable irritation after a single occlusive patch application. In conclusion, these experiments to be completed to better characterise the properties of the YHP skin but these preliminary results appear to support the use of this animal model in thinking about a near- practise test system for SBC. L.A. Scott, S.A. Pitts, P.S. Horn and C.K. Kappes, Use of instrumental techniques for skin safety applications, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 When properly conducted and interpreted, patch testing is a valuable tool for predicting the allergenic and irritant potential of a test material. Patch test results are currently evaluated via the use of visual grading schemes which require trained clinical graders to obtain accurate and reproducible results. Due to the element of subjectivity associated with any visual grading technique and the potential for interlaboratory variation despite common visual descriptors, alternative nonsubjective methods were evaluated. This study was initiated to evaluate the sensitivity of various non-invasive instrumental H\litlist\studies 12/06 26 techniques to detect the skin response following repeat patch test exposure to mild skin irritants. The instruments evaluated including the ServoMed Evaporimeter, Minolta Chroma Meter, DiaStron Dermal Erythema Meter, IBS Skicon, Corneometer and Nova Dermal Phase Meter. A repeat patch test was conducted with 0.0% to 0.15% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate applied to the outer aspect of the upper arm in a randomized fashion. Following acclimation to room conditions maintained at 20-25°C and a relative humidity of 30-35%, baseline instrumental values were established at each patch test site prior to treatment. Patches were applied for a 24 hour exposure duration each, on Friday, Monday and Wednesday. Instrumental and visual measurements were obtained daily. Colorimetric and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements correlated highly (r²>0.95) with our historic visual grading scheme, successfully detecting treatment differences in a dose dependent fashion. Minolta Chroma Meter (a*) results agreed with both the DiaStron Erythema meter and TEWL measures with Pearson correlation coefficients of 0.99 and 0.97, respectively. In contrast, skin hydration measures failed to detect treatment differences predicted by other quantitative methods. Given the ease of use, the Minolta Chroma Meter was further validated for patch test applications under non-acclimated room conditions. Minolta a* values, assessed as the difference from baseline (a* post treatment-a* at baseline), have accurately detected treatment differences for a variety of surfactant formulations. Historically, the Minolta a* value has been the sole endpoint used to evaluate the skin response. To increase the sensitivity of the Minolta Chroma Meter for patch test applications, alternative models are being explored which utilize the L*, a* and b* co-ordinates of the CIE system as a function of repeated patch test exposure. This program supports the use of the Minolta Chroma Meter for patch test applications and provides a strong opportunity to standardise patch test results. A. Hannuksela and M. Hannuksela, Irritant effects of a liquid detergent in wash and chamber tests, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 Irritant properties of a detergent can be tested by using patch and chamber tests and various kinds of use tests. The aim of the present study was to compare the results of use and 12 mm Finn Chamber tests. The study subjects (10 atopic and 11 non-atopic medical students) washed the outer aspects of their upper arm with a liquid detergent for one minute twice daily for one week. 48 h chamber tests with five concentrations of the same detergent in water were concurrently applied to the upper back skin. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), electrical capacitance and skin blood flow were measured to quantify the reactions on day 0, 2, 5 and 7. Irritant dermatitis developed equally in the atopics and non-atopics in the wash test, whereas in the chamber in the TEWL was significantly higher in the atopics than in the non-atopics. The chamber test results thus predicted poorly the results of the wash test. P. Treffel, B. Gabard and E. Bieli, Stratum corneum (SC) dynamical function measurements after irritant and moisturizer application, Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 This study was conducted on the ventral forearm of 6 healthy volunteers. Sorption-Desorpiton Test (SDT) and Moisture Accumulation Test (MAT) were performed with a Nova ™ DPM 9003. Each test was quantified by 3 parameters. SDT: Pre-Hydration State (PHS), Hygroscopicity (H), Water Holding Capacity (WHC). MAT:PHS, Water Accumulation Velocity (WAV), Water Accumulation (WA). W. Matthies, Assessment of skin compatibility of consumer products / Current strategy and methods in industry (exemplified on a dishwashing liquid), Second International Symposium on Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ISICD), Zurich, April 14-16, 1994 Improvement of skin compatibility is a priority task in formulating consumer products. Experience shows, that control of typical skin diseases like desiccation eczema of the hands may be reached by adequate protection and skin care, but these proportions being not always followed by the consumer. Therefore, it is a special task for industry to optimize products with respect to skin compatibility using milder surfactants, refattening agents, or other caring substances, whenever possible. H\litlist\studies 12/06 27 Decisive instruments for improvement of formulations are standardised test models, which help comparing characterising and quantifying effects of formulations for their differentiation, and generating use related data. Modern laboratories work with in vitro secreening, e.g. cell culture techniques, skin explants or physiologic membranes in order to evaluate toxic effects of substances and formulations (Neutreal red test, skin culture, HET-CAM Model on the Chorioallantoic membrane of hen’s eggs). After generating those screening data, further investigation can be performed directly in human volunteers, if general toxicity for man can be assessed as negligible and local tolerance is foreseeable good. In humans maximal short term exposition (contact with undiluted product) can be tested in an open epicutaneous test after Burckhardt. This model is suitable for classification of products according to their irritation potential, but also for assessment of use conditions, when the product is intended to be used for short time contact with the skin, only. Occlusive patch test techniques are useful for comparison of numerous variants in the same individual regarding primary irritation and kinetics of local toxic effects. Besides primary irritation mainly chapping and dryness reactions give hints for different mechanisms of action of substances on or in the stratum corneum. Assessment of the in-use situation needs test methods, which reflect the foreseeable overuse/misuse or the real home use condition. Measurements of physiologic function with physical methods (Laser Doppler Flow, TEWL, Capacity, pH-value measurement, image analysis etc) enable the investigator to objectify results and to survey studies with larger numbers of participants who are using products under real use conditions. As an example results with a new dishwashing liquid show, that this procedure is suitable to demonstrate improvement of products towards better compatibility which also can be experienced by the consumer condition. Peter J. Frosch and Antonius Kurte, Efficacy of skin barrier creams (IV). The repetitive irritation test (RIT) with a set of 4 standard irritants, Contact Dermatitis, 1994. 31. 161-168 An improved human model for the quantification of skin barrier creams (BCs) is described. In contrast to the previously published procedure, the back, instead of the forearm, and a total of 4 irritants are used. Due to the larger area, 3 BC formulations can be simultaneously compared to the control field, which receives the irritant only, without BC-pre-treatment. On 10 human volunteers, the irritants 10% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), 1% sodium hydroxide (NaOH), 30% lactic acid (LA) and undiluted toluene (TOL) were applied via large Finn Chambers for 30 min, 5 x during the 1 st week and 4x during the 2 nd week. Taktosan Salbe (water-in-oil emulsion) and RAWI Speerschutzcreme (oil-in-water emulsion) were applied 30 min before contact with the irritants. In order to assess reproducibility and interindividual variation, the BC RAWI was tested in duplicate. Irritant cutaneous reactions were quantified by 4 parameters: erythema score, transepidermal water loss, blood flow volume and stratum corneum hydration by measuring capacitance. The results showed marked differences in efficacy. Taktosan significantly suppressed irritation by SLS. NaOH and LA, which was apparent in nearly all parameters. RAWI caused significant inhibition of SLS irritation, and a positive trend against the NaOH and LA was observed. Both BCs failed against TOL. The results of duplicate testing with RAWI showed good reproducibility. The dogma that oil-in-water emulsions are primarily effective against lipophilic irritants, and water-in-oil emulsions against hydrophilic irritants, needs to be re- evaluated on this basis of our fndings. This model seems to have potential for further studies on BCs and might elucidate the complex interaction of BCs with irritants. Ph. Masson, P. Blin, R. Urbaniak, F. Mérot, Influence of Operative Procedures on Cutaneous Deformations following Measurement of Skin Elasticity by Vertical Stretching, 18 th International IFSCC-Congress, Venice, October 1994 Numerous systems are available for experimenters in order to evaluate the biomechanical properties of the skin and especially its elasticity. The principle of the cycle vertical stretching-relaxing process under partial vacuum is operated by different equipment using probes of different sizes and especially 2.8 and 13 mm providing various (cutometer 0-500 millibars) or fixed tensile strengths. Each inventor H\litlist\studies 12/06 28 praises the merits of his own equipment and its specificity without the support of any objective and comparative analysis able to provide the possibility of justification and evaluation of the comparative advantages. B. Seybold, K. Seidel, K. Beck-Devalle, F. Hevert, K. Klein, T.L. Diepgen, Distribution and Variation of Basic Physiological Characteristics of Uninvolved Skin in the General Population - a Bioengineering Study, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 T.L. Diepgen, M. Fartasch, A. Huner and U. Funke, Bioengineering Methods in Occupational Dermatology, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 E. Berardesca, G.P. Vignoli, F. Distante, P. Brizzi, G. Rabbiosi, Effects of Water Temperature on Surfactant Induced Dermatitis, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 O.A. Barel, P. Clarys, R. Lambrecht, In Vivo Study of the Mechanical Properties of the Human Skin with the Suction Method (Cutometer), The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 T. Krusche, W.I. Worret, Mechanical Properties of Keloids in Vivo During Treatment with Intralesional Triamcinolone Acetonide, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 F. Panisset, D. Varchon, P. Agache, Ph. Humbert, Assessment of Human Stratum Corneum Tangent Modulus in Vivo, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 P. Elsner, H.I. Maibach, Biophysical Properties of Human Male Genital Skin, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 K.P. Wilhelm, Evaluation of a new opticoprofilometric technique for the Assessment of the Skin Surface Topography, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 Asserin, Agache, Humbert, Checking the Mechanical Performance of a Skin Suction Meter: the Cutometer, The 10 th International Symposium on Bioengineering & the Skin, Cincinnati, Ohio, June 13-15, 1994 M.Ghyczy, J. Greiss Th. Kovats, Liposomes from Vegetable Phosphatidylcholine, Cosmetics & Toiletries, July 1994 The structure of the skin, especially the stratum corneum with its important function as a barrier to minimize transepidermal water loss (TEWL), has been extensively studied and reviewed. During the proliferation of epidermal cells and their migration from the basal layer to the upper layer of the stratum corneum, cell differentiation is accompanied by a tremendous change in metabolic activities. Ch. Baudry, C. Loufrani, Les Meilleures Crèmes Hydratantes, Le Guide D’Achat, No. 273, Mai 1994 F. Deleixhe-Mauhin, C. Piérard-Franchiomont, G. Rorive, G.E. Piérard, Influence of Chronic Haemodialysis on the Mechanical Properties of Skin, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 1994; 19: 130-133 Certain features of the skin of patients undergoing chronic haemodialysis suggest an ageing process. Seventy-two haemodialysed patients were studied by a non-invasive technique using the Cutometer SM 474 to determine biomechanical properties of the skin. Patients undergoing chronic haemodialysis showed some impairment of changes in viscous properties of skin similar to chronological age, while specific changes directly related to elasticity were minimal. H\litlist\studies 12/06 29 A. Teglia, G. Secchi, Cutaneous Effects of Anionic Detergents by means of TEWL and Profilometric Measurements, 18 th International IFSCC-Congress, Venice, October 1994 The repeated use of anionic-based detergents is reported to induce adverse events on the human skin, such as alteration of the stratum corneum barrier function and increase of roughness. Our investigation focused on quantification and comparison of the protective effects of mild surfactants and protein derivatives in simple and complex tenside systems based on sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate and sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate. Cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropylamine oxide and alkyl polyglucoside were used as mild surfactant additives; wheat proteins with different average molecular size were tested. The variations in skin permeability were assessed by TEWL measurements. The changes in skin surface morphology were analysed by three-and two-dimensional roughness parameters of the skin relief. Exposure models were based on the soap chamber test and on standardised washing procedures. Proteins and mild surfactants show comparable efficacy in the one- day occlusion tests, but better results were observed for proteins in the occluded and open repeated exposures. Y. Takema, Y. Yorimoto, M. Kawai and G. Imokawa, Age-related Changes in the Elastic Properties of Human Facial Skin, British Journal of Dermatology, 1994. Using recently designed, commercially available, non-invasive instruments, we measured the thickness and elasticity of the skin of the face and ventral forearm in 170 women, and evaluated the effects of age and exposure to sunlight. Skin thickness decreased with age in ventral forearm skin, which has limited exposure to sunlight, but increased significantly in the skin of the forehead, corners of the eyes, and cheeks, which are markedly exposed to sunlight S.La Mendola, F. Rinaldi, M.C. Salvadori, F. Clemente, Competence and satisfaction. A Study of the Hair and Shampoo of 1.000 Users of a Trichology Service, 18 th International IFSCC- Congress, Venice, October 1994 The awareness which 1.000 users of the medical trichology service at the San Raffaele Hospital of Milan have of the conditions of their scalps is first issue tackled in this study. The self-assessment that each person makes of their own hair conditions is compared to data measured by means of sebumetric instruments. A high degree of incompetence is recorded and correlation with some personality traits of the subjects illustrate this. Some aspects of the impact of different competence levels on behaviour are evaluated. In addition, the level of satisfaction expressed by these users about the shampoo used are examined, taking into account the relationship with some subjective variables. C. Trullas, J. Coll, C. Pelejero, J. Vilaplana, S. Sirigu, C. Dederen, Cosmetological Activity of Glycolic Acid Incorporated in a New Topical Delivery System (W/O/W Emulsion), 18 th International IFSCC-Congress, Venice, October 1994 The cosmetological potential of alpha hydroxyacids (AHA’S) is still evolving. The powerful research in physicochemistry has provided a promising new delivery system, the multiple emulsion W/O/W which could permit a controlled and sustained release of AHA’S , modifying their efficiency and safety. The cosmetological activity and safety of a W/O/W multiple emulsion containing 3% of glycolic acid has been assessed by bioengineering methods using several tests. A six-hour test and 30- days study for comparison of the effects of 3% glycolic acid in two delivery systems W/O/W multiple emulsion and O/W emulsion were conducted. The cutaneous biophysical variables evaluated were electrical capacitance of stratum corneum, skin surface lipids, transepidermal water loss, biomechanical properties, blood flow and skin surface topography. The safety of 3% glycolic acid in the two delivery systems was determined using patch testing and assessment of cutaneous responses by visual scoring and biophysical non-invasive methods (evaporimetry, laser doppler flowmetry, reflectance spectophotometry). S. Sirigu, S. Giogilli, C. Dederen, Functionality and Mildness of Solid Detergents: A Study of Correlation among Formulative Aspects, Instrumental Data and Sensorial Results, 18 th International IFSCC-Congress, Venice, October 1994 H\litlist\studies 12/06 30 The aim of our study was to find a correlation between chemical and formulative aspects of different solid detergents and their features of functionality, skin mildness and sensorial properties. Eight different products were chosen for the test: five syndets, two combars and one alkaline soap. Several cutaneous parameters were investigated in vivo, by using different techniques of measure. The cutaneous innocuity was evaluated on 15 volunteers by means of an occlusive 48 hours patch test. Skin compatibility (respect of pH physiological values, skin barrier functionality and skin roughness) was evaluated on 12 subjects before and after repeated standard washing with the products. Measurements were taken for TEWL, pH skin colorimetry and image analysis. Sensorial performances were assessed, according to the Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method by a panel of 12 well trained evaluators. Results obtained from different methods were then correlated. As far as the cutaneous compatibility is concerned, correlations were found between visual and colorimetric evaluations of acute irritation, and between acute irritation and composition. No correlation was found between repeated wash test results and acute irritation. A good correlation was evidenced by comparing instrumental dryness and roughness evaluations with the correspondent skin sensorial perceptions. Sensorial foam evaluations were well correlated to the composition. C. Letawe, D. Castelli, GE. Pierard, Les Nouvelles Dermatologiques, Nouv.Dermatol.C.C.I. 1994; 13-No 4 Une étude ouverte a été réalisée avec le Cold cream fluide Kéfrane dans l’indication de la xérose atopique. Les évaluations cliniques et biométrologiques, incluant la squamométrie, la capacitance et la perte insensible en eau, on révélé après quinze jours d’applications biquotidiennes, une correction de la xérose que devient très nette après un mois de traitement. W. Courage, Hardware and Measuring Principle: Corneometer, Biogengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum”, edited by: Peter Elsner, Enzo Berardesca, Howard I. Maibach, 1994. The degree of moisture of the stratum corneum (SC) is an important factor when medically evaluating the skin function. The importance of this parameter in dermatology has already been described and discussed in detail in the literature. Generally, four different measuring methods for skin moisture are practiced: infrared spectroscopy, resonance frequency, impedance, and the Corneometer® capacitance methods. Impedance and Corneometer® methods are widely used today. Ron A. Tupker, Prediction of Irritancy, Bioengeneering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, 1994, Chapter 7 “All substances are damaging to some people under some circumstances.” This statement by Kligman stresses the importance of extrinsic and intrinsic factors in skin irritancy. The dichotomy of “extrinsic” and “intrinsic” also appears in the theory concerning the pathogenesis of chronic irritant dermatitis. Wether or not this type of dermatitis will develop depends on the balance between the sum of all harmful influences. (detergents, shampoos, solvents, dry wind, blow heaters, etc.) on the one hand, and the repair capacity of the skin on the other hand. Chronic irritant contact dermatitis is one of the most frequently encountered skin diseases and constitutes the ultimate purpose of performing predictive irritancy testing, division into extrinsic and intrinsic yields two main categories: (1) predictive irritance testing of various substances aimed to select the least irritating substance and (2) predictive irritancy testing with one or more standard irritant(s) aimed to select a population that is at risk for chronic irritant contact dermatitis. This chapter deals with some methodological considerations in predictive irritancy testing. Animal irritancy tests such as the Draize assay are still commonly used. However, it is known that different species exhibit varying reactivity, especially toward agents with low irritant potency. This chapter focuses therefore on human skin testing. Donald R. Wilson, Howard I. Maibach, TEWL and the Newborn, Bioengeneering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, 1994, Chapter 11 Dermatological science made great strides in the 19 th century utilizing man‘s own tools-a history, visual inspection, and palpitation. However, some areas of investigation defy such evaluation; for example, historical, visual, or palpatory changes defy discernment. Practical examples include H\litlist\studies 12/06 31 nonerythematuous irritation and subclinical forms of disease. It is in this area that measurement of transdermal water loss (TEWL) find strong advocates and provides information not otherwise obtainable. In addition, TEWL is an easily measured, noninvasive estimate of the integrity of the skin‘s water barrier, which has proven its usefulness in many related academic and commercial fields. The noninvasive nature of TEWL measurement makes it an especially attractive technique for neonatal studies where research ethics is of great concern. The TEWL techniques employed in neonatal research originate from successful applications on adult human and animal models. Historically, dermatoxicology and pharmacology investigations have used TEWL to assess the local effects of drugs, occlusive materials, and other substances applied to the skin.TEWL has played a valuable part in identifying the function of strateum corneum (SC) lipids. The cosmetic industry employs TEWL to evaluate moisturizer efficacy and to evaluate the irritation and barrier destruction potentials of soaps and solvents. The measurement is also useful in monitoring the recovery processes of wound healing and SC rejuvenation. The transdermal patch industry uses TEWL to help predict the permeability of cadaver skin for drug diffusion studies in vitro. In the clothing industry, TEWL is useful in examining fabric irritation mechanisms and occlusive effects. TEWL has also helped characterize types of dermatitis. This chapter focuses specifically on TEWL as it is applied to investigating the barrier function of neonatal skin. Bernard Gabard, Pierre Treffel, Hardware and Measuring Principle: The NovatmDPM 9003, Bioengeneering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, 1994, Chapter 15 Standard methods used to evaluate the hydration state of the skin surface have focused on visible skin characteristics such as rough, scaly surface. Besides the fact that only “dryness” and not “hydration” can be evaluated by this method, clinical evaluation of the severity of the lesions is subject to two main criticisms: variation between observers and nonparametric description (i.e. ordinal data) for quantification. Therefore, development of commercially available measurement devices that allow for quantitative evaluation of the skin function and provide continuous data is an important advance in experimental dermatology. In particular case of the hydration of the stratum corneum (SC), most instruments use electrical methods to quantify moisturization, such as the Skicon®and the Corneometer® which have gained acceptance. A third is now available, the NOVATMDPM 9003, which will be described here. S.R.. Hartmann, H. Pietsch, G. Sauermann, R. Neubert, Untersuchungen zur Hautverträglichkeit von alkoholischen Händedesinfektionsmitteln, Dermatosen 42, 6, 241-245, 1994 Ziel der vorliegenden Arbeit war die Untersuchung der Wirkung von alkoholischen Händedesinfektionsmitteln auf die menschliche Hautoberfläche hautgesunder, volarer Unterarme. Die Untersuchung erfolgte im Rahmen einer Cross-over Studie über einen Beobachtungszeitraum von acht Monaten an 56 randomisiert ermittelten Probanden unter praxisrelevanten Bedingungen. Die Studie fand von September 1992 bis April 1993 statt. Die 56 Probanden waren Mitarbeiter einer pharmazeutischen Firma. Ein Unterarm aller Mitarbeiter wurde volar im Durchschnitt sieben mal pro Arbeitstag im Rahmen der Vorschriften über die hygienische Händedesinfektion behandelt. Der andere Kontrollunterarm blieb während des gesamten Beobachtungszeitraums unbehandelt. Behandelte Areale konnten mit den unbehandelten Arealen verglichen werden. Die Erfassung und Beurteilung möglicher Hautzustandsveränderungen erfolgte durch dermatologische Bewertung und durch sechs weitere Untersuchungsmethoden. Bestimmt wurden: Grad der Schuppung der Haut (Abschuppungsrate), Hautfeuchtigkeit, Haut-pH-Werte, transepidermaler Wasserverlust (TEWL), Hauttemperatur und Hautmikrotopographie. Der Einfluß saisonaler Gegebenheiten wie Außentemperatur und Luftfeuchtigkeit auf unbehandelte wie behandelte Areale konnte durch die vergleichende Versuchsanordnung berücksichtigt werden. Die Abschuppungsrate lag an den behandelten Arealen an den meisten Meßzeitpunkten unter dem Niveau der unbehandelten Areale. Der TEWL lag an den behandelten Arealen zu jedem Meßzeitpunkt hochsignifikant über dem Niveau der unbehandelten Areale. J. Bettinger, M. Gloor, W. Gehring, Influence of a pretreatment with emulsions on the dehydration of the skin by surfactants, Int.Journal of Cosmetic Science 16, 53-50, 1994 H\litlist\studies 12/06 32 Improving the water content of the horny layer of the skin is of great importance in dermatology (atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis etc.) and in cosmetics (to soften the skin surface [1]. It is believed that emulsion bases lead to hydration of the stratum corneum [2]. The hydration is believed to last a few minutes if an o/w-emulsion is used [3] and a few hours in the case of w/o- emulsions [4].The present study addresses whether the hydrating effect really does last for such a short time. Literature also proposes an increase in water content by using urea, which is a component of many dermatological skin-care ointments [3, 5-8]. G. Marti-Mestres, J. Passet, H .Maillols, V. van Sam, J.J. Guilhous, J.P. Mestres, B. Guillot, Evaluation expérimentale de l’hydratation et du pouvoir occlusif in vivo et in vitro d’excipients lipophiles et de leurs émulsions phase huile continue, Int.Journal of Cosmetic Science 16, 161-170, 1994 Une étude a été réalisée sur trois émulsions eau dans huile et leurs phases grasses respectives, vaseline, huile de paraffine et huile d’amande douce, en vue de comparer luers propriétiés occlusives et par voie de conséquence leur influence sure l’hydratation cutanée. Une méthode in vitro utilisant des cellules de type ‘Patel’ a permis dans un premier temps de classer les différentes émulsions et leurs phases grasses en fonction de leur perméabilité à la vapeur d’eau, ce qui conduit par ordre croissant de degré d’occulsion à: huile d’amande douce, huile de paraffine et vaseline. Pour les études in vivo chez l’homme, l’influence de l’application des mémes substances sur la petere insensible d’eau (PIE) et l’hydratation cutanée a été mesurée avec un évaporimètre et un cornéomètre. Les différentes pahses grasses, utilisées pures, augmentent l’hydratation par effet occlusif, ce phénomène étant objectivè par les mesures de PIE. Par contre pour les èmulsions correspondantes, il semblerait que l’augmentations de l’hydratation ne fasse pas intervenir de mécanisme occlusif. A. Teglia, G. Secchi, New protein ingredients for skin detergency: native wheat protein- surfactant complexes, Int.Journal of Cosmetic Science 16, 235-246, 1994 The cutaneous tolerability of detergent formulations can be improved by means of suitable additives. Exogenous proteins, for example, are able to reduce the skin irritation potential of surfactants according to a double mechanism: they complex the surfactant molecules lowering the concentration of their free monomeric species; they link to the skin keratin forming a protective colloidal layer that shields the denaturing attack of surfactants. Protein derivatives used as additives for detergency are usually prepared by partial hydrolysis of animal sclero-proteins or plant reserve proteins. The main purpose of the hydrolytic cleavage is to make them water soluble and suitable for liquid products. Native, non hydrolysed wheat proteins have been recently introduced as active ingredients for detergents. Water solubility and stability are obtained by means of complexion with surfactants which also increases their actual hydrophobicity, an important parameter affecting cosmetic properties of proteins. G. Borroni, C. Zaccone, G Vignati, G.P. Vignoli, E. Berardesca, G. Rabbiosi, Dynamic Measurements: Sorption-Desorption Test, Int.Journal of Cosmetic Science 16, 217-222, 1994 Probably no concept in physiology of the skin has been so improperly used as the term “hydration of the stratum corneum (SC)”, for the simple reason that the SC is physiologically poor in water and is one of the tissues in the human body with the lowest water content. The SC of the human skin is dry. Despite the frequent use of the term “hydration” with regard to the SC, this is not even exceptional when compared with the most external layers of the integument of many other animal species. Rather than hydration of the SC, we need to speak about “critical or optimal dehydration”, given the progressive but controlled tendency of water in the human skin to decrease from the innermost to the outmost layers of the SC. The SC’s dryness is a factor favouring the integrity of the underlying organism and is a means through which the skin’s barrier function is carried out. The exceptional poverty of water in the SC, and hence its high hygroscopicity, has encouraged the development of a simple but ingenious research approach: bathing the SC with water and seeing for how long it remains damp. M. Lodén, M. Lindberg, Product Testing-Testing of Moisturizers, Bioengineering of the Skin:Water and the Stratum Corneum, 275-288, 1994 H\litlist\studies 12/06 33 Moisturizers are used to restore and/or to maintain a normal function of the stratum corneum (SC). Mostly they are used on the indication of so-called dry skin. When performing product testing of moisturizers, bioengineering devices are used for evaluating how these products affect the function of SC, the main diffusion barrier in the skin. Biophysical measurements of dry skin need to be carefully evaluated. A number of highly developed noninvasive methods for the study of skin physiology have appeared during recent years and a number of papers on the use of these methods are now being published. D. Van Neste, Skin Hydration in Detergent-Induced Irritant Dermatitis, Bioengineering of the Skin:Water and the Stratum Corneum, 223-232, 1994 It is a thermodynamic rule that water escapes “passively” through the body surface of a homeothermic living organism and returns into a cool and dry environment. There is a consensus in viewing the primary role of the epidermis as a producer of a structurally highly ordered hydrophobic domain usually confined to the extracellular spaces within the stratum corneum (SC). Indeed, after terminal differentiation, corneocytes are embedded in a continuous meshwork of lipid bilayers. The aim of the specialized domain is to prevent desiccation of the body. In this concept, programmed cell death of SC cells makes them like missiles with a lipid load synthesized in the cell after launching and extruding from the cell after completion of the differentiation program. Recently it became clear that flux of water through the SC is a regulatory mechanism for cell proliferation. P. Clarys, C. Eeckhout, J. Taeymans, P. Gross, A.O. Barel, Influence of short daily exposure to thermal water on the hydration state of the skin, Threat to the Skin, 333-337, 1994 The thermal Kurzentrum of Lenk (Switzerland) is one of the spas recognized by the Department of Health of Switzerland as a centre specialized in the treatment of rheumatic patients. Part of the typical 3-week cure in the centre consist of daily bathing in hot thermal water containing high concentrations of salts and sulphur (sulphates and hydrogen sulphide). According to recent data from balneo- therapeutic treatments, the sulphur which penetrates the skin is oxidized and provokes various physiological responses in the skin: vasodilatation in the microcirculation, an analgesic influence on the pain receptors and inhibition of the immune response. J.D. Büscher, B.C. Lippold, Messung feuchthaltender Effekte an menschlicher Haut, Krankenhaus- pharmazie, 15. Jahrgang, Nr. 12, 1994 Die Wirkung von Feuchthaltern auf die Barriere Stratum corneum wird mit einem Corneometer bestimmt. Diese nicht invasive und einfache Methode erlaubt quantitativ, die Veränderung der Hornschichthydratation zu messen. Glycerol, Natriumthioglycolat, Natriumlactat, Harnstoff, Propylenglycol und Natriumedetat erhöhen significant (7-12%), Diethylenglycolmonoethylether (Transcutol®) erniedrigt schwach in 10%-iger Lösung die Hautfeuchte, 2-Butanol und Ethanol bleiben praktisch ohne Einfluß. Dr. H.P. Nissen, Comparative Studies of Skin Roughness Measurements by Profilometry and a New Image Analysis System, Cosmetic and Toiletries Manufacture World-wide, Jan. 95 The characterisation of the effects of skin care products on the topography of the horny layer is a valuable component in the substantiation of treatment products’ efficacy. Skin roughness is a very important parameter in the characterization of cosmetic skin properties. Smooth, supple skin is a perceptible effect that can be achieved by means of cosmetic skin care products. Up to now, however, it has been difficult to record the roughens of the skin and to define it satisfactorily by measuring technique. In this study a new method for computer assisted structural analysis of the skin surface is presented, which uses a special image analysis technique. This new method is compared with the profilometry and the conventional image analyser technique. I. Diepenbrock, U. Heinrich, H. Tronnier, Der Einfluß von Nikotin auf die Haut, Parfümerie und Kosmetik 12/95 Die Beschaffenheit der Haut als größtes menschliches Organ ist wie keine zweite ein Gradmesser für das Alter des gesamten Organismus. Nicht selten lassen sich durch ihren Zustand Rückschlüsse auf vorhandene Erkrankungen schließen. Der Einfluß des Rauchens nun auf die Hautelastizität bestätigt H\litlist\studies 12/06 34 um ein weiteres die oben genannte Feststellung. Aufgrund des Vergleichs von quantitativen Messungen der Hautelastizität bei Rauchern und Nichtrauchern über verschiedene Altersgruppen ließ sich eindeutig feststellen, daß die Elastin- und Kollagenfasern eine längere Zeit benötigen, um wieder in ihre ursprüngliche Ausgangslage zurückzukehren. Weiterführende Untersuchungen ergaben sogar einen verstärkten Abbau der elastischen Fasern. Auf jeden Fall läßt sich fesstellen, daß die Haut bei Rauchern um durchschnittlich 11 Jahre älter ist als bei Nichtrauchern vergleichbaren Alters. J. Ennen, S Jaspers, G. Sauermann, U. Hoppe, Measurement of Biomechanical Properties of Human Skin,Cosmetic and Toiletries Manufacture World-wide, Jan. 95 The biomechanics of skin comprises a complex interrelashionship and interaction of three layers - epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Assessment of the mechanical properties of the skin by noninvasive techniques has turned out to be a difficult task. The intimitate interconnection of the different tissue compartments of the skin, the anisotrophy, and time dependance of the mechanical properties, as well as the regional variations in skin make biomechanical measurements more difficult than other types of skin measurement. Measurement of those parameters of skin that describe the biomechanical properties of the skin are currently performed mainly by two different mechanical modes. Firstly, the test mode of torsion is represented by a rotating disc and guard ring torque measurement. Secondly, the mechanical test mode of elongation is represented by the instrumentation of a suction device. The mechanical parameters of extensibility and elastic recovery, both represented in a biological elastic modulus of skin, can be measured by both approaches. In this paper the characteristics, the similarities, and the differences of both bioengeneering techniques of characterizing the biomechanical properties of skin are described. J.W. Fluhr, W. Gehring, M. Gloor, Analyse der Hautrauhigkeit bei Personen unterschiedlicher Altersgruppen mit dem Visiometer, Akt.Dermatol. 21, 151-156 - 1995 An 40 hautgesunden Probanden wurde mittels eines neuartigen Verfahrens (Visiometer) in vier distinkten Altersgruppen an Ober- und Unterarmen, Ober- und Unterschenkel sowie am Nacken und Rücken das Hautrelief untersucht. Die Untersuchung mit dem Visiometer beruht auf der Analyse eines Silikonabdruckes mittels EDV-gestützer CCD-Videokamera. Altersunterschiede konnten nur am Rücken nachgewiesen werden. Hingegen fanden sich im direkten Vergleich der Lokalisationen übereinstimmende Hautrauhigkeitswerte am Oberarms, Unterarm, Oberschenkel sowie am Rücken, die sich signifikant unterschieden. Ein Geschlechtseffekt konnte nicht nachgewiesen werden. A.M. Grunewald, M. Gloor, W. Gehring, P. Kleesz, Barrier Creams, Dermatosen 43, Heft 2 - 1995 Repetitive washing with 0.01 mol/l sodium lauryl sulphate solution for one week was followed by a measurable skin function disorder as evaluated by corneometry, laser Doppler flowmetry, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. The application of commercially available barrier creams (Marly Skin ®, Saniwip®, Tactosan®) as well as the application of well-defined oil-in-water emulsions containing 10% urea or 10% glycerol, respectively, significantly reduced skin function deterioration following repetitive washings. Urea and glycerol containing oil-in-water emulsions were at least as effective as the most effective commercial barrier cream Tactosan and had the additional advantage of better user acceptance. Th. Krusche, W. Worret, Mechanical properties of keloids in vivo during treatment with intralesional triamcinolone acetonide, Arch.Dermatol Res 287-293, 1995 The mechanical properties of 17 keloids in 9 patients before and during treatment with intralesional triamcinolone acetonide were studies using a recently developed noninvasive suction device for measuring skin elasticity in vivo. Each keloid was treated with intralesional injections of 10 mg/ml triamcinolone acetonide without local anaesthetic at intervals of 3 weeks. A total of four measurements per keloid were performed, before treatment and 3 weeks after the first, second and third treatments. The parameters used were: immediate distension (Ue), delayed distension (Uv), immediate retraction (Ur) and final distension (Uf). Relative parameters independent of skin thickness were calculated: Uv/Ue, the ration between the viscous and the elastic deformation of the skin, and Ur/Uf, representing the ability of the skin to return to its initial position after deformation (biological H\litlist\studies 12/06 35 elasticity). After three injections of triamcinolone acetonide a marked decrease in Uv/Ue and a less- pronounced increase in Ur/Uf compared with baseline values was observed. These findings indicate that the main effect of intralesional steroids on the connective tissue of keloids is a decrease in viscosity due to a loss of ground substance. This method provides a noninvasive quantitative assessment of the mechanical properties of scars and is well suited to comparative studies on the efficacy of various scar therapies. Th. Krusche, Keloidbehandlung / Neues Gerät objektiviert den Therapieerfolg, Medical Tribune Nr. 5, 03.02.1995 Cutometer, mit dem die mechanischen Eigenschaften des Keloids gemessen werden. Die Sonde saugt mit Unterdruck das Keloidgewebe an, auf dem Bildschirm erscheint die gemessene Elastizitätskurve. G.E. Piérard, R. Kort, C. Letawe, C. Olemans, C. Piérard-Franchimont, Biomechanical assessment of photodamage, Skin Research and Technology 1:17-20, 1995 Background/Aims: Intrinsic aging and photoaging may present different biomechanical properties. Dorsal and volar forearm skin is differently exposed to UV-light. The object was to derive a cutaneous extrinsic aging score (SEAS) representative of UV aging, i.e. the global photoaging corrected for intrinsic aging. « Visiomètre SV 400 »: l’alternative pour mesurer le relief cutané, Cosmétologie No. 2, 28, Janvier 1995 P. Soto, C. QueilleRoussel, B. Soler, A. Clucas, Evaluation of a New Moisurizing Cream using a Mini Regression Test, AAD-Congress, New Orleans, February 1995 Xerosis is a very common condition affecting at least 75% of persons over the age of 64 (1) and also a significant number of younger people. Although not associated with significant physical instability, it is uncomfortable and esthetically unacceptable to many patients. Treatment is based on the use of moisturizers, of which a large variety are available commercially. H.Dobrev, In Vivo Noninvasive Study of the Elastic and Viscoelastic Properties of Human Skin after a Short Term Appliation of Topical Corticosteroids, 6 th Congress of Dermatology and Venerology, Pleve, Bulgaria, May 11-13, 1995 A noninvasive, in vivo suction device for measuring skin elasticity (Cutometer SEM 474, Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) was used to determine the alteration in the mechanical properties of the skin after a short term application of 5 commercially available topical corticosteroids as ointments and creams. 25 volunteers (20 female and 5 male, aged 16-54 years) were investigated. The following relative parameters, independent of skin thickness, were caluclated and compared: R2 (Ua/Uf) - gross, R5 (Ur/Ue) - net, R7 (Ur(Uf) - biologic elasticity and R6 (Uv/Ue) - viscoelastic/elastic ratio. Corticosteroid ointments increase the purely elastic parameters R2, R5 /p<0.05/, R7 as well as the parameter of viscoelasticity R6 /<0.001/. Corticosteroid creams alter the elastic parameters weakly while increase the viscoelastic parameter R6 significantly /p<0.05/. These effects of topical corticosteroid formulations are probably due to the hydration of the stratum corneum and softening of keratin, which imporve the epidermal mechanical properties. On the other hand as a result of dermal oedema and some biochemical effect on the ground substance perhaps, the friction between the fibres is reduced and interstitial fluid movement is facilitated through the fibrous network. The applied noninvasive method can be useful for an evaluation and comparison of local effects of the different dermatologic topicals on the elastic and viscoelastic properties of human skin. L Celleno A Vasselli, M.V. Tolaini, A. Mastroianni, F. Macchia, Verifica di tollerabilità ed accetabilità cosmetica di detergenti cutanei: confronto di metodiche, Cosmesi Dermatologica 45, 1995 La detersione cutanea è un atto igienico ma reppresenta altresi un important momento cosmetologico e dermatologico. Infatti solamente se il prodotto utilizzato è cosmetologicamente ben accettato essa risulta un atto gradevole. Inoltre spesso l’uso di tensioattivi o saponi tradizionali si traduce in un’alterazione del film idrolipidico superficiale. Se a questo fa seguito l’esposizione e il danneggiamento della strato corneo, può innescarsi quel meccanismo che conduce alla comparsa della H\litlist\studies 12/06 36 dermatite irritativa da contatto, facilitando anche l’insorgenza della dermatite allergica da contatto (1,2). V. Couturaud ,J. Coutable, A. Khaiat, Skin biomechanical properties: in vivo evaluation of influence of age and body site by a non-invasive method, Skin Research and Technology 1: 68-73, 1995 The stratum corneum is covered by a network of microdepressions which have been classified by Hashimoto (1). Escande (2) introduced the concept of microdepressionary network, mDN, representing Hashimoto’s primpary [I] and secondary [II] lines. The primary lines are visible, and represent the deepest furrows delimiting 3- to 4-sided polygons. Their anatomic base is at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction, the furrows surrounding a group of papilla (3). The secondary lines are inside these figures and cross all or parts of their surface. Their presence is noticeable only from the stratum granulosum. Jong-il Kim, Hae-kwang Lee, Technologies of Skin Bioengineering, The Society for Investigative Dermatology, Sheraton Chicago Hotel, Chicago, May 24-28, 1995 Clinical improvement of amino propane sulfonic acid and its quantitative measurement with a new opticoprofilometry. I. Tausch, J. Gaßmüller, W.J .Kessler, Beurteilung der protektiven und pflegenden Potenz von Lichtschutzpräparaten mit biophysikalischen Methoden, Wissenschaft Dt.Derm. (43), 1995 Während einer zehntägigen UV-Bestrahlung wurden die Eigenschaften zweier Lichtschutzpräparate (LSF6,LSF20) untersucht. Als Vergleich dienten unbehandelte als auch mit der jeweiligen Grundlage behandelte Hautareale. Es wurde die Intensität des UV-Erythems mit einem Farbmeßgerät, die Hautfeuchtigkeit mittels der Corneometrie und die Hautoberflächenstruktur durch Profilometrie beurteilt. Beide Lichtschutzpräparate unterdrückten das UV-Erythem vollständig, der Feuchtigkeitsgehalt der Haut und die Faltentiefe blieben unverändert. In den Arealen, die einer zehntägigen UV-Bestrahlung ohne Lokalbehandlung ausgesetzt waren, traten deutliche Erytheme, Feuchtigkeitsverluste und eine Zunahme der Faltentiefe auf. Die Anwendung der Grundlagen allein zeigte nur bei einem Präparat eine leichte Lichtschutzwirkung. Neben den UV-protektiven Eigenschaften, die bei beiden Lichtschutzpräparaten gleich gut waren, sind die herausragenden pflegenden Eigenschaft der LSF20-Emulsion hervorzuheben. L. Zissova, Hr .Dobrev, Quantitative Investigation of Sebum Excretion in Seborrhoeic Dermatitis of the Scalp Treated with Ketoconazole 2% Shampoo, 2 nd Congress of the ECMM, Brussels, April 27-29, 1995 The quantity of sebum excretion before, during and after treatment with Ketoconazole 2% shampoo / Nizoral ®, Janssen Pharmaceutica, Belgium / in 20 patients with seborrhoeic dermatitis of the scalp, aged 16-40 years, was studied. G.E. Piérard, Relevance, Comparison, and Validation of Techniques, Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin, J. Serup G.B.E.Jemec, 1995 Measuring in an objective way is always in need of additional breakthrough. Dermometrology and bioengineering have been and remain closely associated in the search for improvements of quantitative noninvasive assessments. The pre-bioengineering times and the descriptive phase of dermometrology are behind us. Ingenious researches pioneered methods that may now look crude, time-consuming, and sometimes lacking in reproducibility. A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, Measurement of Epidermal Capacitance, Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin, J. Serup, G.B.E. Jemec, 1995 The presence of an adquate amount of water in the stratum corneum is important for the following properties of the skin: general appearance of a soft, smooth, well-moisturized skin, in contrast to a rough and dry skin; of a flexible skin, in contrast to a brittle and scaly skin; and of an intact barrier function allowing a slow rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) under dry conditions. As a consequence, the in vivo determination of the degree of hydration of the horny layer is an important factor in the characterization of normal and pathological situations of this layer, of an actinic aged H\litlist\studies 12/06 37 skin, of irritated skin conditions, and, finally, in the assessment of the effciency of various moisturizing topical products. As pointed out by Tagami, the use of various dermatocosmetic products in order to restore softness, smoothness, and moisture in very dry skin is widely practised in western countries. A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, Comparison of Methods for Measurement of Transepidermal Water Loss, Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin, J. Serup G.B.E.Jemec, 1995 The measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is an important noninvasive method for assessing the efficiency of the skin as a protective barrier. The stratum corneum forms a barrier against diffusion of water through the epidermis and constitutes the main obstacle to the penetration of molecules coming in contact with the surface of the skin. A.O. Barel, W. Courage, P. Clarys, Suction Method for Measurement of Skin Mechanical Properties: The Cutometer ®, Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin, J. Serup G.B.E.Jemec, 1995 The mechanichal properties of the human skin have been extensively studied in the past most in vitro and less in vivo. Skin is a complex organ which as many other biologicals, presents in a combined way the typical properties of elastic solids and viscous liquids. As a consequence the mechanical properties of the skin are called viscoelastic. Typical properties of viscoelastic materials are nonlinear stress-strain properties with hysteresis (the stress-strain curves obtained on loading will not be superposed on the curves obtained by unloading). Furthermore the deformation of the skin is time- dependent with a typical phenomenon of creep. The creep is characterized as an increasing deformation of the skin in function of time when a constant stress is applied on this material. The viscoelastic properties of the skin are due to the components of the skin: collagen fibers and elastin fibers impregnated in a ground substance of proteoglycans. E. Berardesca, H.I. Maibach, Racial Differences in Skin Function: An Update, Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine Vol. 110, October 1995 The most prominent characteristic of racial and ethnic groups is skin color. However, despite the visible color differences, documented anatomical and ultrastructural differences are only minimal. Furthermore, controversy remains as to wether these features also have a functional relevance in skin physiology. Some aspects of skin physiology may indeed have practical implications on the racial incidence and prevalence of some diseases, including skin cancer, acne and pigmentation disorders. In recent years, scientists have devoted much work to further characterizing racial differences and have published reviews of their objective techniques. H.P. Nissen, H. Biltz, R. Muggli, Borage Oil, Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine Vol. 110, October 1995 Researchers have discussed use of polyunsaturated fatty acid supplements to treat atopic dermatitis (AD) for more than half a century. Oil from evening primrose seeds has attracted special attention because it contains   -linolenic acid (GLA). Morse et al found that oral administration of this oil significantly reduces the general severity of AD, in a dose-dependant manner. The fatty-acid profile of blood lipids in AD patients shows an increase in the proportion of linoleic acid, with a decrease in arachidonic acid and other metaboilites of linoleic acid. These findings suggest defective functioning of the enzyme   -6-desaturase in AD. In a previous communication, we reported that systemic administration of evening primrose oil leads to smoother skin. This evidence has provoked much interest as to wether topical application gives similar results. Y. Ghane, A. Hüner, M. Fartasch, T.L. Diepgen, Entwicklung eines Testmodells zum Wirksamkeitsnachweis von Hautschutzpräparaten, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologen Gesellschaft, Berlin, 29. April - 03. Mai 1995 Die irritative Wirkung hautbelastender Arbeitsstoffe soll durch das Auftragen von Hautschutzpräparaten reduziert werden. Bisherige, für den Wirksamkeitsnachweis eingesetzte H\litlist\studies 12/06 38 Methoden tragen der Arbeitsplatzsituation nicht genügend Rechnung, in der subtoxisch-kumulative Handekzeme durch den wiederholten Kontakt mit relative gering irritativen Substanzen entstehen. H. Tronnier, Neues zum Wirkungsnachweis von Körperpflegemitteln, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologen Gesellschaft, Berlin, 29. April - 03. Mai 1995 H.C. Korting, Rationale der Hautreinigung mit sauren Syndets, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologen Gesellschaft, Berlin, 29. April - 03. Mai 1995 W. Gehring, M. Fischer, M. Gloor, Die Bedeutung von rückfettenden Substanzen in Waschlösungen, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologen Gesellschaft, Berlin, 29. April - 03. Mai 1995 Cetiol HE wird als rückfettende Substanz tensidischen Waschlösungen zugegen, um die Hautfreundlichkeit zu verbessern. Der Effekt von 5% Cetiol HE wurde im Waschversuch an 15 gesunden Probanden in vivo und in vitro am Gefrierschnitt menschlicher Haut (GMH) sowie Kammerpenetrationstest (KPT), zwei bewährten Irritationsmodellen, überprüft. Als Meßparameter in vivo galten die Hornschichtfeuchtigkeit (Kapazitätsmessung) und der transepidermale Wasserverlust (Evaporimeter) W.I. Worret, Th. Krusche, Objektive Nachweismethoden zur Überprüfung von Narbentherapeutika, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologen Gesellschaft, Berlin, 29. April - 03. Mai 1995 Es gibt mehrere Methoden, um hypertrophe Narben und Keloide der Hautoberfläche anzugleichen. Intraläsionale Triamcinolon-Injektionen gelten dabei als Standardbehandlung. Th. Krusche, W.-I. Worret, Änderung der mechanischen Eigenschaften von Keloiden während Behandlung mit intraläsionalem Triamcinolonacetonid, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft in Berlin, 29.04.-03.05.1995 P. Elsner, Nichtinvasive Techniken in der Hautphysiologie, 38. Tagung der Deutschen Dermatologen Gesellschaft, Berlin, 29. April - 03. Mai 1995 Nichtinvasive Techniken (Synonyma: Bioengineering-Verfahren, biophysikalische Meßverfahren) haben in den vergangenen Jahren in verschiedenen dermatologischen Forschungsgebieten Eingang gefunden. Dazu zählen insbesondere die Hautphysiologie, die Dermatopharmakologie und Dermatotoxikologie, die Allergologie und die Berufsdermatologie, aber auch die Erforschung der Kollagenosen, der Veränderungen der Altershaut (dermatologische Gerontologie) un die Onkologie. F. Distante, E. Berardesca, Transepidermal Water Loss, Bioengineering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, CRC Press 1995 Measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is widely used to characterise the water barrier function of skin, both in physiological and pathological treatments on diseased skin. In vivo TEWL can be measured according to three different techniques. F. Distante, E. Berardesca, Hydration, Bioengineering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, CRC Press 1995 The development of commercially available measurement devices that allow for the quantitative evaluation of skin function and provide continuous data is an important advance in experimental dermatology. Indeed the measurement of skin hydration has gained considerable interest in recent years because the water content of the stratum corneum influences various physical characteristics of the skin such as barrier function, drug penetration, and mechanical properties. Generally, three different commercially available methods for evaluating skin moisture are used: capacitance, impedance, and conductance. P. Elsner, Skin Elasticity, Bioengineering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, CRC Press 1995 Mechanical properties of human skin have interested dermatologists and bioengineers for a considerable time, as differences between biomechanical skin parameters at various skin sites and changes with age and disease are obvious. Objective functional assessment of skin mechanics was necessary in order to correlate mechanical properties with anatomical and biochemical findings. H\litlist\studies 12/06 39 P. Elsner, Sebum, Bioengineering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, CRC Press 1995 While the epidermal barrier function depends largely on intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum, skin surface lipids are mainly from sebum. Sebum is an oily mixture of lipids, keratin, and cellular membrane structures excreted by the sebaceous glands. J.Welzel, pH and Ions, Biogeninering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, CRC Press 1995 In the early part of the century skin pH was investigated using colorimetric methods. pH indication showed changes in different pH ranges. A large area of skin was required for the use of several indicators. A simplification of this method was the foil colorimetry in which indicator-impregnated sheets of adsorbing strips were placed on the skin with a drop of water. Ch. Edwards, The Mexameter MX 16, Biogeninering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, CRC Press 1995 The Mexameter MX 16 TM (Courage and Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Germany) is a dual instrument incorporating a melanin index and an erythema index meter. Both of these are based on the diffuse remittance spectrometry principle, whereby a measurement is made of the absorbency of a volume of tissue at specific wavelengths, from which the concentration of absorbing pigment can be estimated and used to construct a pigment index. Kein Aha Erlebnis, Test Gesichtspflegemittel mit Fruchsäuren, Test 10/95 Sind Pflegemittel mit Fruchtsäuren wirklich die Kosmetik der Zukunft, die Wunschträume von ewig jugendlichem Aussehen wahr werden läßt ? Oder reizen die Mittel vor allem die Haut, wie andere Fachleute vermuten ? In neun dieser Tiegelchen und Töpfchen schauten wir genauer hinein. Ph. Girard, L. Violin, A. Denis, M. Maurice, Comparison of three methods for measuring in vivo skin hydration on humans, depending on epidermal depth: “NMR Spectroscopy”, “Transient Thermal Transfer” and “Corneometry”, IFSCC- In Between Congress, Montreux, Switzerland, 18- 20 September 1995 The aim of this study is to determine the more convenient method of measuring skin hydration at several epidermal depths. Two in vivo, non invasive, quantitative and innovative methods - “Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy! (NMRS) and “Transient Thermal Transfer” (TTT)- and conventional corneometry are compared. G.E. Piérard, Nikkels-Tassoudji, Piérard-Franchimont, Influence of the Test Area on the Mechanical Properties of Skin, Dermatology 1995, 191: 9-15 New advances in bioengineering have provided commercially available devices for measuring the mechanical properties of skin in vivo. Reproducibility of data and methodological approaches have not yet been thoroughly studies. Objective: To study the reproducibility and the influence of the area of the test site on the values of biomechanical variable yielded in a normal population. Method: A 500- mbar suction was transmitted to the skin through Cutometer probes equipped with a 2- or 8-mm opening. Results: The best reproducibility was obtained for the maximum distension of skin and for the biological elasticity. The values of the standard biomechanical ratios were almost the same for both probes. Linear correlations were found between parameters of elasticity. N. Nikkels-Tassoudji, F. Henry, C. Letawe, C. Piérard-Franchimont, P. Lefèbre, G.E. Piérard, Mechanical Properties of the Diabetic Waxy Skin, S. Karger, Basel, 1995 Background: In some diabetic patients, the skin of the hands has a waxy appearance. Objective: To study subclinical skin stiffening in diabetic patients using a noninvasive, in vivo suction device measuring skin extensibility and elasticity. Skin thickness was also measured by high-resolution ultrasonography. Methods: Evaluations were made on the dorsum of the hands and on the volar aspect of the forearms. Results: In type 1 diabetic patients, the extensibility of skin was decreased while values of thickness and elasticity were increased. These alterations were most prominent on the hands. Similar modifications, although less pronounced, were also found in type 2 diabetic subjects. Conclusion: The reported biomechanical changes indicate the presence of subclinical skin stiffening in H\litlist\studies 12/06 40 many patients with diabetes mellitus. Such noninvasive biometrological evaluations could be used for monitoring, rating and correlating some diabetes-associated disorders. G.E. Piérard, R. Kort, C. Latawe, C. Olemans and C. Piérard-Franchimont, Biomechanical Assessment of Photodamage, Skin Research and Technology 1995. Background/Aims: Intrinsic ageing and photoaging may present different biomechanical properties. Dorsal and volar forearm skin is differently exposed to UV-light. The object was to derive a cutaneous extrinsic ageing score (SEAS) representative of UV ageing, i.e. the global photoageing corrected for intrinsic ageing. G.E. Piérard, C. Letawe, A. Dowlati and C. Piérard-Franchimont, Effect of Hormone Replacement Therapy for Menopause on the Mechanical Properties of Skin, Jags 43:662-665, 1995. Objective: To evaluate the effect of hormone replacement therapy (HRT) for menopause on the mechanical properties of the skin in healthy women. Design: A group of 114 women, including 43 nonmenopausal controls, 46 menopausal women with HRT and 25 menopausal women without HRT, participated in the study. Mechanical properties of the skin were measured on the volar forearm using a computerized suction device. R. Dawber, Skin Surface Biopsy and the Follicular Cast, CRC Press 1995, chapter 5.5, pp. 121-123. The technique of skin surface biopsy (SSB) was first described by Marks and Dawber. It is a simple, non-invasive method, removing only dead tissue, used to study the stratum corneum as a cohesive membrane, its constituent corneocytes and their relationship to each other, the many types of pathology within this compartment, and a vast array of microorganisms that may colonize or invade the layer. M. Viatour and G.E. Piérard, A Computerized Analysis of Intrisinc Forces in the Skin, BSL Clinical Experimental Dermatology Paper, 15/8/1995. The skin of the volar forearm is a site selected for many biometrological studies. We studied the influence of forearm position when evaluating the surface topography and mechanical properties of the skin in normal young adults. Optical profilometry of skin replicas and the suction biomechanical method (Cutometer, 2 and 8 mm probes) were used in combination with evaluation of the thickness and sliding mobility of the dermis and dermohypodermal tissues. K.Articus, K.P. Wilhelm, Das Skinvisiometer-ein neues Gerät zur Bestimmung der Hautrauheit, Parfümerie und Kosmetik, Nr. 9/95. Die Rauheit der Hautoberfläche kann nicht direkt gemessen werden, da willkürliche Bewegungen des Probanden die Messung stören. Daher wird ein Silikonabdruck der Haut angefertigt. Eine Diamantnadel, deren Spitze auf der Oberfläche des Abdruckes aufliegt, wird über den Abdruck bewegt. Dabei hebt und senkt sie sich entsprechend der Oberflächenstrukture des Abdruckes. Die Bewegung der Nadel wird - elektronisch verstärkt - auf Papier aufgezeichnet. Die resultierende Linie stellt ein Profil der Oberfläche dar. Gemäß den Definitionen der DIN Normen (2) werden dann an Hand der Profillinie die verschiedenen Rauheitsparameter bestimmt (Tab.1). Da die Nadel mit konstanter Geschwindigkeit gleichmäßig über die Oberfläche bewegt werden muß, stellt dieses Verfahren hohe Anforderungen an die Mechanik des Gerätes und die Aufzeichnung des Profils dauert mehrere Minuten. Das Skinvisiometer benutzt eine andere Methode, um den Silikonabdruck der Oberfläche auszuwerten. Es ist dadurch in der Lage, die gesamte Oberfläche eines 6,5 mal 5mm² großen Silikonabdruckes in Sekunden einzulesen. J. Ennen, S. Jaspers, G. Sauermann, U. Hoppe, P. Gerson, Measurement of Biomechanical Properties of Human Skin, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 1995 The biomechanics of skin comprises a complex interrelationship and interaction of three layers - epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Assessment of the mechanical properties of the skin by non-invasive techniques had turned out to be a difficult task. The intimitate interconnection of the different tissue compartments of skin, the anistrophy, and time dependence of the mechanical H\litlist\studies 12/06 41 properties, as well as the regional variations in skin make biomechanical measurements more difficult than other types of skin measurement. T. Heinzelmann, K. Müller-Decker, J.J. Levy, F. Marks, Proinflammatory Eicosanoids and Interleukin-1  in Suction Blister Fluid from Primary Irritated Human Skin, Skin Pharmacology Society: 12 th Annual Meeting 1995 In order to establish an alternative or supplement to the Draize test, an in vitro skin irritancy test was developed with human keratinocyte-derived proinflammatory interleukin-1  and eicosanoids as in vitro parameters. These are currently validated for their relevance and reliability: In a clinical study the eicosanoid and the IL-1a content of a human suction blister fluid (SBF) and skin inflammation (clinical syptoms, transepidermal water loss TEWL) of irritant and vehicle-treated skin are evaluated. Here, the data after application of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are presented. K. Stephanek, J.J. Levy, A. Kesckés, The Local Reaction Followed Topical Application of Leukotriene B4 on Healthy Human Skin, Skin Pharmacology Society: 12 th Annual Meeting 1995 The archidonic acid-derived metabolite leukotriene B4 (LTB4) seems to play an important role in the pathogenesis of several skin diseases like psoriasis, leukocytoclastic vasculitis and atopic dermatitis. K. Matsuzaki, N. Kumagai, S. Fukushi, O. Ohshima, M. Tanabe, H. Ishida, Cultured Epithelial Autografting on Meshed Skin Graft Scars: Evaluation of Skin Elasticity. Burn Science Publishers, Inc. 1995 Many patients with meshed skin graft scars compalin of the scars unsightly appearance and hardness. Since 1989 we have shaved away meshed skin graft scars and then resurfaced the area with autologous cultured epithelium in nine patients. This method improved the disfigurement of meshed skin graft scars, with minimal sacrifice of normal donor skin. Furthermore, autologous cultured epithelium grafted areas had high skin elasticity compared with meshed skin graft scars, as measured with a noninvasive suction device. E. Weißhaar, R. Sabel, C. Smith, M. Coißbau, E.-M. Röpke, H. Gollnick, Does a New Lipidizing Agent in a Medical Soap Prevent Lipid Loss Induced by Repetitive Washing, Skin Pharmacology Society: 12 th Annual Meeting 1995 Skin care e.g. choosing a suitable soap is an important factor in preventing skin disease. Various medical soaps claim to minimize the strain put on the skin by repetitive washing. The aim of this study was to determine wether a new relipidising agent in a medical soap which supposedly counteracts lipid loss induced by repetitive washing leads to a significant change in transepidermal waterloss, pH, sebum excretion and 8 epidermal lipids. J. Woodruff, Testing time, Cosmetics, June 1996 In his continuing series on impending EC cosmetics-legislation, John Woodruff looks at the requirements for proof of efficacy, and takes a trawl around available testing facilities. St. Seidenari, B. Belletti and G. Pellacani, Short Communication, Skin Research and Technology 1996. Application of water under occlusion increases hydration of the stratum corneum, thereby swelling the corneocytes and promoting the uptake of water into intercellular lipi domains (1). Hydration values, as measured by capacitance, remain higher for 20 min after soaking skin with tap water (2). Equalisation of water diffusion between the stratum corneum and ambient air occurs within 20 min (3). Water, re- emitted from a 24-h occlusion site, is recorded as increased TEWL values (4). Ha J.H, Jo N.S, Lee H.K, Kim J.I, Lee B.G, Park W.J, The Depigmentation Effect of A New Material Extracted from Paper Mulberry and ist Comparison by Three Colorimetric Instruments, Proceedings of the 19 th IFSCC Congress, October 1996 Skin color varies depending on age, racial background, seasonal change and pigmentation disorder. Whiter skin color is a desire of oriental women. Various whitening beauty cosmetic products for H\litlist\studies 12/06 42 inhibiting pigmentation process prevails in the market. Measuring skin color is a popular clinical tool for evaluating depigmentation effect of these products. Therefore, the cosmetic scientists need to develop new effective depigmenting ingredients as well as powerful measuring tool for skin color. D. Khazaka, Claim Support & Efficacy Testing. A New System to Analyze Skin Roughness and Wrinkles, Active Ingredients, International Conference Paris, November 1996 From the 1 January 1997 all cosmetic products and raw materials have to fulfill the 6 th Amendment regarding product information package, ingredient labeling and claim support. Meanwhile there are a range of objective skin analyzing instruments on the market helping to satisfy the new needs of efficacy testing and claim support arising from this Amendment. The parameters of the skin which can be determined objectively are sebum, moisture, pH-value of the skin (hydrolipidic film), viscoelasticity and micro circulation of the skin, skin color (melanin and erythema index), transcutaneous oxygen pressure, temperature and thickness of the skin. A brand new system to evaluate skin roughness and wrinkles is now commercially available: the SKIN-VISIOMETER SV 400  . It differs from other roughness measuring systems by its economical, accurate and quick measuring principle. A specially blue dyed silicon skin replica is analyzed by light transmission in a slide projector according to their heights and depths. By means of a digitalization unit the replica is visible on a monitor in 256 gray levels or false colors. Standard roughness parameters (e. g. Ra, Rt, Rz, etc.) are calculated for the profile of a single line. Also the average parameters of up to 180 lines in a circle or a square can be determined within a second. The software of the SKIN-VISIOMETER SV 400  offers many possibilities to the user as calculation of 3-dimensional parameters like surface or volume, or the display of a perspective image for marketing use. All data can be stored, printed out and exported to statistical programs. K. De Paepe, P. Vandamme, M.P. Derde, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Ceramides/Cholesterol/ Free fatty acids ontaining body lotions: Effect on TEWL of aged and SLS-damaged skin, Active Ingredients International Conference Paris, November 1996 Thus the basic question still remains unanswered, namely if it is possible, considering the galenic difficulties involved in a correct formulation, to devleop efficient cosmetic products by adding essential barrier lipids. If will be a challenge for the cosmetic industry to look for suitable solutions. One of these could be an increased interest in basic research of the barrier function of the skin leading to products that can either protect the barrier and keep it in good condition or restore a damaged barrier. U. Griesbach, High Molecular Weight Chitosan A Multifunctional Biopolymer as an Active Ingredient for Skin and Hair Care, Active Ingredients International Conference Paris, November 1996 Hydagen CMF as a high molecular hydrocolloid is an excellent active agent for the entire skin care range as well as in decorative cosmetics. However, on account of the cationic character and the high molecular weight, this chitosan product is not compatible with anionic surfactants and can therefore not be used in surfactant skin cleansing products containing anionics. J. Bettinger, J. Fluhr, M. Gloor, W. Gehring, Have oil/water emulsions a dehydrating effect on the horny layer?, Kosmetische Medizin 1996 1: 46-49 The emulsifiers used in wash solutions, which have a dehydrating effect on the horny layer of the skin, have a large hydrophilic and a small lipophilic moiety. Such oil/water (o/w) emulsifiers are also used in o/w emulsions, although here combined with emulsifiers, which are responsible for the consistency of the emulsion. Under repeated use of the o/w emulsions, the emulsifiers remain on the skin after evaporation of the water component. It can be assumed that on renewed contact with water by showering, bathing or sweating, this can form a wash solution, resulting in skin dehydration. The intention of the present work was to answer this question. H\litlist\studies 12/06 43 Alessandro Teglia, Antonella Mondelli, Influence of cosmetic treatments on the intercorrelations of skin elasticity, hydration and microrelief, 19 th IFSCC Congress Sydney, October 1996 Skin Hydration, elasticity and surface microtopography are important cutaneous parameters reflecting sensory/aesthetic qualities of the skin and have been largely adopted as indicators of the effectiveness of cosmetic treatments. Several studies have been made about the influence of environmental and biological factors on them, while little is known about their correlation. Aim of our study was to investigate their intercorrelation and possible influence of cosmetic applicartions on their relationship. 30 healthy volunteers were subject to the study over a period of one year. 7 skin sites for each longitudinal half of the body were taken as test areas: volar aspect of the forearm (3sites), upperarm, breast cheek, forehead. The subjects divided into two groups were properly instructed to apply twice a day a W/O emulsion (1 st group) and an O/W emulsion (2 nd group) on the test sites of a half of the body; contolateral untreated sites were used as controls. Biophysical measurements of skin hydration, mechanical properties and surface geometry were made at regular intervals over the test period for each volunteer. The data collected were submitted to statistical analyses for cross-correlation and differences of the means. The following variables were considered: electric capacitance EC as measure of the hydration of the horny layer; the viscoelastic to elastic ratio Uv/Ue and the biological elasticity Ur/Uf as mechanical properties of the skin; mean roughness depth Rz and coefficient of skin estensibility LD as parameters of the skin surface microtopography. Age of the subjects was considered as biological variable. On untreated skin were observed: significant correlation of topographycal and mechanical parameters with age; correlation of Rz with Uv/Ue (direct) and with Ur/Uf (inverse); correlation of LD with EC (inverse) and with Ur/Uf (direct). Correlation of mechanical properties with hydration was not significant. Treatment with W/O emulsion increases significantly hydration, elasticity and skin smoothness; intercorrelation of biophysical variables does not show important variations. The baseline correlation of microrelief parameters with age was reduced. Treatment with O/W emulsion increases moderately hydration and smoothness but does not effect the elastic properties of the skin; correlation of Rz with biological elasticity and viscoelastic component loses significance. Exposure of the skin to different type of emulsions ca effect selectively the cutaneous biophysical parameters and vary their intercorrelation. N. Issachar, I. Gall, C. Gall, C. Carduner, M.C. Poelman, The Behaviour of Sensitive Skin Against Lactic Acid Aggression. Proceedings of the 19 th IFSCC Conference, Sydney.10/96 There is an important need for screening methods which can detect and distinguish the relative discomfort caused by cosmetic formulations for an increasing part of the population. Indeed when certain materials are applied to the skin, some persons report subjective complaints such as burning, stinging, itching, tight feeling, and sometimes, exhibit signs of irritation. This peculiar susceptibility is not hardly documented. The aim of our study was to find a quantitive test to identify subjects who present this unusual susceptibility to cosmetic products, using lactic acid as a stinging reagent. A preselection of reactive subjects “stingers” among volunteers was firstly carried out by application of a 10% aqueous solution of lactic acid on the nasolabial fold. The stinging effect is scored each minute during 10 minutes, over a range from 0 (no stinging) to 3 (severe stinging). The mean values allow to select 15 “stinger” and 15 “stinger” volunteers. The kinetic of skin pH of the stingers and non stingers after lactic acid application under the same conditions was checked. The data pointed out that the kinetic of the pH-sensitive skin is significantly different from normal skin: pH increases faster fon sensitive skin than on normal skin. These findings support the suggestions that individuals who behave as stingers may have an enhanced buffering ability, or a more permeable stratum corneum, compared to people with normal skin. The measurement of the recovery of the cutaneous pH in subjects with sensitive skin versus normal skin could be a useful tool for a better understanding of this phenomenon. A. Herpens, U. Maerker, V.Schreiner, U. Hoppe, Estimation of epidermal turnover by semiautomatic measurement of corneocyte area. Proceeding of the 19 th IFSCC Congress,Sydney 10/96 H\litlist\studies 12/06 44 Different approaches and cosmetic ingredients have been described as being able to enhance the epidermal turnover (ET) of the skin of the elderly, for example peeling of the stratum corneum (SC) and/or topical application of alpha-hydroxyacids and retinoids. Measurement of the efficacy of such procedures currently relies on estimation of the rate of disappearance of a stratum corneum coloration achieved by covalent binding of dyes to structural dyes or lipids of the SC (SC transmits time studies, 1, 2). But these methods should be considered with great care because there are possible sources of artefact. We present a method and measurement protocol we believe to be less susceptible to such pitfalls, more closely related to changes in the mitotic activity of the epidermal cells, delivering reliable and producible results and significantly less invasive to human volunteers. Our method mainly relies on exfoliative cytology with assessment of the parameter “corneocyte area”(CA), which is well-known to be closely related to ET as shown by its strong dependance on age (3,4). A. Teglia and G. Secchi, Minimizing the Cutaneous Effects of Anionic Detergents Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine Vol. 111, August 1996 Evaluating the protective efficacy of proteins and mild surfactants via transepidermal water loss and profilometric measurements. J. Welzel, K.P. Wilhelm, and H.H. Wolff, Skin permeability barrier and occlusion: no delay of repair in irritated human skin. Contact Dermatitis 1996, 35 It has been reported that occlusive treatment of skin results in a reduction of barrier repair activities in hairless mice. In contrast, the clinically observed benefit of occlusion in the treatment of hand eczema and other chronic skin diseases with a perturbed barrier function is well-known. While the beneficial effect of occlusion has been proven for the treatment of psoriasis, there are no controlled clinical studies of the effect of occlusion on irritated human skin. We have therefore evaluated the effect of various occlusive treatments on repair of the human skin permeability barrier under controlled experimental conditions. Barrier perturbation was induced either by application of sodium lauryl sulfate(SLS) or by repeated tape stripping. This was followed by treatment with different occlusive and semipermeable dressing, partly after pretreament with petroleum. Repair of water barrier function was evaluated by daily measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for 1 week. SLS irritation and tape stripping led to a 6 fold increase in TEWL as a sign of severe water barrier perturbation, followed by a stepwise decrease over the following days. Occlusion did not significantly delay barrier repair as measured by TEWL. Only in tape-stripped skin did TEWL stay at high levels during treatment with self-adhesive dressings. This may be explained by damage of newly-formed stratum corneum caused by changing of these membranes. Our results indicate that, in contrast to earlier observations in hairless mouse skin, permeability barrier repair activities are not significantly delayed by occlusive treatment in human skin. K.Paepe, P. Vandamme, M.P. Derde, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Ceramides/Cholesterol/ Free Fatty acids containing body lotions: Effect on TEWL of aged and SLS-damaged skin. Active Ingredients, International Conference Paris, November 1996 Total removal of the sratum corneum or perturbation of the barrier lipids by the use of solvents or tape stripping will lead to a significant increase in water loss through the upper layers of the skin, followed by a cascade of metabolic events in the epidermis, including an immediate secretion of new formed lamellar bodies (Lee et al.,1994) There are several categories of skin conditions or disorders, in which the skin is generally considered to be dry and rough, with an impaired lipid barrier and an increased TEWL (Thestrup- Pederson, 1995). The effect on the barrier function seems to be dependant on the type of lipids affected. It has even been suggested that a linear relationship could exist between the total amount of lipids removed from the stratum corneum and the degree of barrier disruption (TEWL). The TEWL thus seems to be a signal for barrier repair and regulates the recovery by initializing the burst of lipid synthesis. Barrier repair usually occurs over a period of 6 hours to 3 days (Jass and Elias, 1991). Whereas epidermal lipid synthesis is clearly linked to barrier functions, the nature and origin of signals that initiate and propagate the biosynthetic response are still a subject of current studies (Nickhoff & Naidu, 1993; H\litlist\studies 12/06 45 Wood et al., 1994). Transcutaneous water loss itself is not the regulatory signal alone since the removal of barrier lipids also allows a simultaneous, passive loss of extracellular calcium and potassium ions. Under basal conditions these ions inhibit the onset of new lipid synthesis (Lee et al., 1994). In addition to ion depletion which may be one of the stimuli for lipid synthesis, chronic or acute barrier disruption leads to the generation of epidermal and dermal cytokines, growth factors and other interleukines that in turn triggers epidermal hyperplasia and dermal inflammation (Elias, 1994). S. Seidenari, B. Belletti, G. Pellacani, Time Course of Skin Changes Induced by Short-term Occlusion with Water: Evaluation by TEWL, Capacitance, and B-scanning Echography. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 2 No.1 February 1996. Application of water under occlusion increases hydration of the stratum corneum, thereby swelling the corneocytes and promoting the uptake of water into intercellular lipid domains. Hydration values, as measured by capacitance, remain higher for 20 min after soaking skin with tap water. Equalisation of water diffusion between the stratum corneum and the ambient air occurs within 20 min. Water, re- emitted from a 24h occlusion site, is recorded as increased TEWL values. B-scanning techniques, based on segmentation, enable the visual observation of the dynamics of changes due to inflammatory processes in the skin and the quantitive assessment of epidermal and dermal components of skin reactions. The effects of simple occlusion with a test chamber are assessable using the echographic evaluation of dermal edema. The aim of our study was to investigate the sonographic aspects of hydration, as documented by measurements of TEWL and capacitance, induced by a short-term occlusion with water. F.L. Ruedisueli, N.J. Eastwood, N.K. Gunn, T.G.D. Watso, Skin pH in Dogs of Different Breeds. Skin Research and technology,Vol. 2, No.1 February 1996 Normal skin pH in humans ranges from pH 5.4-5.9, but can vary between anatomical sites. No such pH data are known for dogs. In this study skin pH was measured in dogs of diffrent breeds, demonstrating variation between measuring sites, breeds, sex, and coat colour. All animals were fed the same commercial dry dog food. Skin pH was measured with a flat membrane skin pH meter (Courage and Khazaka, Germany) on the head, pinna, flank, axillar and inguinal region. All sites were clipped except head amd pinna. The mean pH for 12 Labradors, measured over 5 days, for flank, head, and pinna were (mean  SE) 7.48   0.04, 8.10  0.06 and 6.11  0.03, respectively. Inguinal and axillar measurements showed day-to-day variability. For interbreed comparison skin, pH on the flank was measured on three male and three female Miniature schnauzers 7.25  0.17, Springer spaniels 6.65  0.08, Yorkshire terriers 7.71  0.13, and Labrador retrievers 7.13  0.10. The overall data showed effects of site (p<0.001), sex (p<0.001; males>females<9, neutering (p<0.01; neutered>entire), colour(p<0.01;black>yellow) and breed(p<0.01) and a sex effect within breeds. These findings demonstrate that skin pH measurements are possible in dogs and that the variability due to site , sex, breed, and cost may be important in the aetiology and management of dermatalogical disorders in relation to susceptibility, hypersensitivity,and treatment response. K.P. Wilhelm, proDERM institut for applied Dermatological Research GmbH. Schenfeld, Germany. Client-Server based On-Line Data Acquisition for Skin Bioinstrumentation Devices. During dermatological safety and efficacy studies, huge amounts of data- both instrumental data as well as evaluator scores may accumulate. We have developed an integrational data with on-line data acquisition capability. The program runs in a Macintosh network. A graphical interface facilitates data entry. A multilevel password system secures unauthorised use. In order to comply with GCP/GLP requirements all data entries and any possible changes relating to experimental studies- both scores and instrumental values -are secured in a log file together with date, time, and initials of the person entering the data. The program can at present acquire data from: Chromameter (Minolta), Tewameter, Corneometer, pH-Meter, Sebumeter, Mexameter, (all Courage and Khazaka). However, the open architecture would easily allow to incorporate more instruments with a serial interface. Data can be exported in DOS, windows or Macintosh format for easy import into any spreadsheet or statistics programs. The program has been completely validated and successfully used in a contract research H\litlist\studies 12/06 46 organisation for over 12 months. Automatic data acquisition has proven to be very useful tool to facilitate and speed up data analysis and to enhance the quality and reliability of test results. D.A. Comes, E.J. Fendler, M.J. Dolan and R.A. Williams, Bioengineering Instrumentation: Automation and Use. Skin Research and Technology,Vol.2, No.4, Nov. 1996 Objective: The increasing complexity and use of bioengineering skin test instrumentation has created a critical need for unified software that controls the instruments, collects and stores data, performs analysis, and generates reports. In this study, user-friendly software programs were developed and applied to perform panel testing on a large number of test subjects utilising bioengineering skin test instrumentation. Methods/Results: Generic software programs were developed to integrate and automate operation, data storage, and data analysis of multiple bioengineering skin instruments. The software was applied to the following instruments:- Courage and Khazaka - Sebumeter SM810, Corneometer CM 820, skin pH-meter 900, Tewameter TM210; Minolta Chromameter CR300, and NOVA DPM 9003. Conclusions: Automation of skin bioengineering instrumentation allows evaluation studies to be performed using a large number of test subjects (with multiple variables). This greatly increases the statistical validity of data and overall efficiency, whilst negating the historical constraints which required a large commitment of resources. K.P. Wilhelm, Possible Pitfalls in Skin Hydration Measurements. Skin Research and Technology,Vol. 2, No.4, Nov 1996. Stratum Corneum (SC) and the outermost skin layer adapts quickly and efficiently to variable outside relative humidities by means of binding or releasing water. The water content (WC) of SC greatly influences the appearance , surface contour and feelingof the skin. A broad range of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products aim to increase WC of SC. However, the visual appearance of “dry and rough”, or “hydrated and soft” skin is not only determinedby the SC WC, but also by the quantity and the quality of intercellular lipids. It is therefore almost impossible to determine the WC of SC visually. Various instruments utilising electrical methods, eg capacitance, impedence, resistance and conductance, are commercially available for the objective measurement of SC hydration. However, all methods may be influenced by various surces of disturbance. Additionally, systematic errors in the study design may invalidate the results independant of the methodology behind the instrument. Care has also been taken in the interpretation of the data obtained. Various specific examples of possible pitfalls in skin hydration measurements as well as a strategy to avoid them will be presented. F. Henry, G.E. Pierard, Biomechanical Properties of Striae Distensaie of Pregnancy. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 2 No. 4 Nov. 1996 Backround and Objective: Striae Distensae of pregnancy is a common finding. There is currently a lack of information about the rheological properties of such lesions. The purpose of this study was to compare the mechanical properties of striae distensae before and after delivery. Patients and methods: A total of 79 primigravid entered the study. Rheological properties of the skin were evaluated in vivo using a CUTOMETER equipped with a 2-mm probe. Results: Mechanical properties of striae distensae developing during pregnancy resembled those of the surrounding skin. By contrast, significant differences were yielded during post-partum. Extensibility of striae distensae was increased although parameters of elasticity remained normal. Conclusion: Rheological properties of striae distancae of pregnancy vary in time. This might reflect the changes in hormones and in the mechanical stresses normally setting the skin under tension. A. Barel, Evaluation of Stratum Corneum hydration: Comparison between Electrical Capacitance (Corneometer CM 825) and Conductance (Skicon 200) Measurements. Skin Research and Technology Vol.2 No. 4 Nov. 1996 In vivo determinations of the hydrationof the superficial laayers of the epidermis can be carried out using electrical instruments. We compared the conductance (microSiemens) at high frequency H\litlist\studies 12/06 47 (3.5Mhz) and a recent version of the corneometer, CM 825, designed to measure the capacitance at high frequency (1.0 Mhz). Calibration of the capacitance instrument is now possible using filter paper impregnated with a moiturising aqueous solution and with solvents of different dialectic constant. The detection depth of the probe can be evaluated when covering the moistened filter paper with plastic foil of variable thickness. The accuracy, sensivity and reproducibility of the measuring capabilities of both instruments were compared in vivo on subjects with a wide range of hydration state of the horny layer. P.M. Clarys,A.O. Barel, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Brussels, Belgium, The Influence of a Single Topical Corticosteroid Application on the Hydration State of the Stratum corneum. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. The impact of vehicle properties on stratum corneum hydration and bioavailability of active substances is well known. As demonstrated by the reports on side effects after prolonged treatment with topical corticosteroids, the active substance may equally effect the integrity of the stratum corneum. Few studies evaluate the short term effects of topically applied corticosteroids. In our experiment, we evaluated the influence of a single topical corticosteroid application on the stratum corneum hydration. Two different corticosteroid molecules were tested as well as the influence of the applied quantity, the time, the corticosteroid concentration and the influence of a moisturiser (urea). One of the tested corticosteroid caused drying of the skin while the other did not. The addition of urea caused an increase of stratum corneum hydration. P.M. Clarys, A.O. Barel, Sebumetry: A comparison between Lipid Collection Techniques. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.2, No.4, Nov.1996 Recently, several methods have been developed for the collection of skin surface lipids. We compared 3 of those measurement techniques: the Sebutape, the Sebufix, and the Sebumeter. Lipid sampling with the Sebufix and with the Sebumeter takes only 30 seconds while lipid sampling with the Sebutape takes 1 hour. As demonstrated by several authors application of a film on the skin surface may interfere with several skin properties such as skin temperature, skin hydration, and skin surface water loss. Our experimental set was designed in order to make a comparison between the 3 measurement techniquesand in order to evaluate the effect of Sebutape application on the above skin parameters. Comparison of the lipid quantification with the 3 techniques delivered a good correlation. The Sebutape seems to have no or only a minor influence on skin temperature and TEWL. The hydration state of the statum corneum increased significantly during the Sebutape application. J. Effendy, H. Loeffler, and R. Happle Dept. of Dermatology, University of Marburg, Germany. Experiences with Patch Testing with Sodium Laurel Sulphate as a Tool PredictingHuman Skin Susceptibility. Skin Research and Technology,Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. Compared with the alkali resistance test (ART), a widely used method employing sodium hydroxide, a 24h patch testing with 0.5% aqueous sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) has been tested for predictng human skin susceptibility to an irritant. Forty patients (age range from 20 to 60) with an active irritant contact dermatitis (ICD), 40 patients in whom ICD had cleared, as well as 40 healthy volunteers serving as controls were tested. Skin responses to SLS were assessed both visually and by the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as an indicator of stratum corneum integrity. A significant increase in erythema scores and TEWL has been induced by SLS, and the increase in TEWL was even more pominent in patients with active ICD. On the other hand, a decrease in alkali resistance was only found in patients with active ICD, but not in patients with healed ICD. This study suggests that the SLS test, unlike ART, may provide a non-invasive tool predicting a possible consitutional skin susceptibility or indicating a subclinically impaired skin barrier function. E.J. Fendler, et al, Automated Techniques for Determination and Analysis fo TEWL Data. Skin Research and Technology,Vol.2,No.4, Nov 1996. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement is an extremely useful technique for the assessment of the skin barrier function. Although many publications in the bioengineering field report TEWL data, few have defined TEWL steady state (stabilisation time) conditions. H\litlist\studies 12/06 48 Theoretically, in measuring TEWL, steady state is the point in time when the rate of water vapour entering the measuring probe is equal to the rate exiting the measuring probe. This time may vary for different subjects and different skin types. Using mathematical formulations, a procedure was developed to establish each subject TEWL steady state condition. This procedure accomodate inter-personal variations as well as instrumental measurement errors. Conclusion: An objective method was developed which allows determination and analysis of steady- state TEWL data. This method can be applied to any time-dependant measurements which approach a steady state value. J. Habig, E. Vocks, F. Kautzky, M. Dahm, S. Borelli, Influence of single UVA and UVB irradiation on surface structure and viscoelastic properties of the skin in vivo. The present study was designed to evaluate the effects of single irradiation either with UVA (dosage:50J/cm²), or UVB(dosage IMED) on surface structure and viscoelastic properties of the skin. Biophysical measurements by means of profilometry and cutometry were carried out on normally sun- protected skin areas directly before and 24 hours after irradiation. UVA induced neither immeasurable changes in skin surface structure (expressd by the profilometrically calculated parameters of roughness Ra and RxDIN and the parameter Wt reflecting depths of furrows) nor in its viscoelastic properties (expressed by the cutometrically calculated ratio Uv/Ue reflecting viscosity and the ratio Ur/Uf reflecting biological elasticity). However, a single dry-thermogenic dose of UVB radiation was followed by significant increase in the depths of furrows, increase in viscosity and decrease in biological elasticity. De Vroey, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Studie van het Microreliëf van de Hiud aan de Hand van een Lichttransmissie-methode. Lautenschläger, Dr. H., Mönchengladbach, Kühlschmierstoffe - Forderung des modernen Hautschutzes. Mineralöltechnik 6/96 Skin protection is a large topic in the field of metal working industry basically by use of metal working fluids. Both user, manufacturer, and distributor of lubricants take a strong interest in prophylactic skin protection measures. For that reason, high demands are made on lubricants, its handling and skin protection measures. these demands are followed by newly developed lubricants and skin protection measures concerningits chemical compounds and measuring technique. Today’s tendencies and the increasing all-embracing way of personal attitude are clearly demonstrated by the need to furnish evidence of compatibility and effect. Physical and chemical parameters of lubricants and skin protection measures as well as its skin compatibility are specifically taken into account. Yosipovitch, G. MD; Maibach Howard I. MD, Skin Surface pH: A Protective Acid Mantle.Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine Dec 1996. J. Habig, E. Vocks, F. Kautzky, M. Dahm, S. Borelli, Einfluß einmaliger UVA- und UVB- Bestrahlung auf Oberflächenbeschaffenheit und viskoelastische Eigenschaften der Haut in vivo, Hautarzt 47, 1996 The present study was designed to evaluate the effects of single irradiation either with UVA (dosage: 50J/cm2) or UVB (dosage: 1 MED) on surface structure and viscoelastic properties of human skin. Biophysical measurements by means of profilometry and cutometry were carried out on normally sun protected skin areas directly before and 24 hours after irradiation. UVA induced neither measurable changes in skin surface structure (expressed by the profilometrically calculated parameters of roughness Ra and RzDIN and the parameter Wt reflecting depths of furrows) nor in its viscoelastic properties (expressed by the cutometrically calculated ratio Uv/Ue reflecting viscosity and the ratio Ur/Uf reflecting biological elasticity). However, a dry themogenic dose of UVB radiation was followed by significant increase in the depth of furrows, increase in viscosity and decrease in biological elasticity. H\litlist\studies 12/06 49 Voegeli, Rainer; Meier, Jürg, Doppler, Stefan; Stürzebecher, Jörg, PhD;Girard,Phillippe,PhD; Elastase and Tryptase Determination on Human Skin Surface.Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine Vol.111 July 1996. The skin, as an organ enveloping the body, mainly functions to seal and mediate the body from the environment. Various biochemical and biophysical systems help maintain the integrtiy of this exposed organ via complex physiological processes with well-defined interactions between cells and enzymatic reaction cascades. These systems involving proteinases include: • Immune system, which protects from damage of pathogenic microorganisms • Melanin-forming system that prevents radiation damage • Keratinocytes, which form the horny layer that protects from mechanical,physical and chemical damage. H. Gerny, IV Medizinische und Kosmetische Behandlungen, Kosmetik und Dermatologie, Krause & Pachernegg Verlag GmbH, Wien. Die Langzeitwirkung einer Pflege kann nur dann einigermaßen beurteilt werden, wenn ein klar definierter Ausgangspunkt bezüglich des aktuellen Hautzustandes und Hauttypes gegeben ist. Die Bestimmung des Hauttypes ist ein sehr komplexer Vorgang, da viele äusserliche Einflüße auf unser Hautbild einwirken. Auch ist die Haut hormonell empfindlich und stellt ein Bild unseres Innenlebens dar. Da der Zustand der inneren Schichten ohne chirurgische Maßnahmen nicht definitiv beurteilbar ist, kann nur die Summe aller Beobachtungen durch Auge, Lupe, und Woodlampe sowie Apparativer Hilfsmittel einen approximativen Anhaltspunkt über den Zustand der Haut geben. Es ist empfehlenswert, nach dem 35. Altersjahr von Zeit zu Zeit eine Hautbeurteilung durchführen zu lassen, um die Pflege nach dem aktuellen Hautbedürfnis anzupassen. Richard Marks, A Deeper Look Into The Superficial Layers Of The Skin, Retinoids Today and Tomorrow 1996, Issue 43. The boundary of self from non-self is defined by the outermost part of the skin. It provides the chemical barrier that grudgingly permits the egress of water and impedes the penetration of microbes, xenobiotics and other antigens. Ulrike Heinrich , Potwierdzanie Dzialania Kosmetycznego. Pollena 2/97 Proof of cosmetic efficacy. In the following some methods, which have proven to be relevant in establishing cosmetic efficacy are shown. With the help of these methods and a special study design, it is possible to determine and to evaluate the character and extent of the influence cosmetics have on skin care and smoothing effects. Zuang, Valerie, Zastosowanie Corneometru CM 820 Do Oceny Nawodnienia Skory Ludzkiej. Pollena 2/97 The use of Corneometer CM 820 to evaluate the Hydration of Human Skin. Directive 93/35/EEC on the testing of cosmetics requires that evidence is provided to support the efficacy claims made for marketed products. In order to fulfil this requirement without resorting to the use of animals, non- invasive skin bioengineering techniques are now being employed with human volunteers. These techniques provide quantitative and objective data, if the measurements are performed under rigorously standard conditions. Inthis study, a non-invasive instrument, the Corneometer® CM 820, which measures skin capacitance, has been used to evaluate the short term effects of three commercially available moisturisers, by monitoring the water content of the stratum corneum at different treated test sites of human skin (inner forearm) in comparison with that at an untreated site. A standard reference material (20% glycerol in distilled water) was employed, so that results could be compared between laboratories and to avoid differences relating toinstrumentation and methodologies. Measurements with the Corneometer CM 820 were taken at the baseline visit, bafore product application, and at 1, 3, and 6 hours post application, at each test and control site. H\litlist\studies 12/06 50 Articus,K.; Khazaka,G .;Wilhelm, K.-P.; The Skin Visiometer-A Photometric Device for the Measurement of Skin Roughness. Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis. 1997 CRC Press, Since 1959, When Tronnier presented a stylus profilometer as a tool to quantify the surface of the human skin, several author have used this device to quantify the effect if cosmetic and pharmaceutical products on the skin. A profilometer works like a phonograph. A diamond stylus is placed on the surface of a plastic replica of the skin, and the stylus is moved linearly across the surface. By transducing the horizontal and vertical movement to a recording unit, a two-dimensional (2D) profile line is drawn. The profile line is used to calculate roughness parameters. Profilometers have been used for many years, so that the machines have reached a high stage of development and the calculation of various roughness parameters has been standardised in many countries. In 1979, Hoppe showed that the anisotropic surface of the human skin cannot be reliably quantified by profilometric measurements in one direction, but that severaldirection have to be measured to obtain a more correct roughness value of the human skin. Later Hoppe et al. applied the fast fourier analysis as a three- dimensional (3D) parameter on 3D skin surface recordings that were achieved by combining several parallel 2D profile scans of the surface to overcome the disadvaantages of 2D parameters. In the meantime, other investigators have also applied 3D parameters on skin surface data. Unfortunately, the movement of the stylus is very time-consuming, and though faster systems have been invented, where the diamond stylus is replaced by optical measurement systems that use laser beams and thus avoid contacting the surface, the 3D recording of a replica of a skin area still takes several minutes up to hours. Also, the precise movement of the stylus makes heavy demands on the mechanics of the movement mechanism. The photometric device that we present in this article overcomes these problems by applying a photometric measurement principle that needs no horizontal or vertical displacement of a stylus and records the 3D surface of a skin area in a split second. A. Barel, P. Clarys, I. Manou, Objective Evaluation of the Cosmetic Use of Some Selected Essential Oils as “Active Ingredients” in Skin Care Products, Conference Proceedings - IN- COSMETICS 97 K.-P. Wilhelm, Skin Hydration Measurements: General Considerations and Possible Pitfalls, Conference Proceedings - IN-COSMETICS 97 J. Wiechers, A Supplier’s Contribution to Performance Testing of Personal Care Ingredients, Conference Proceedings - IN-COSMETICS 97 Current cosmetic formulations address a wide variety of customer needs. This variety requires a plethora of personal care ingredients. In order to create excellent new products, it is essential that the formulator not only knows the physical properties of the component (s)he chooses, but also the skin performance that these products may have. In order to facilitate the selection process for the formulator, we have investigated the effect of our products against some of the most prominent claim areas of cosmetic products: skin moisturisation, elasticity, substantivity and mildness. Clinical evaluation of a depigmenting cream: TRIO-D® in melasma of the face, Nouvelles Dermatologiques Vol.16 1997 To evaluate the depigmenting activity of TRIO-D® (combination of Hydroquinone-Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)-ascorbic acid derivative) in melasma of the face, a doouble blind, randomized, multicentric study versus excipient was conducted in 38 women. They were divides in two parallel groups and had applied to each hemiface, twice daily, either the verum or the excipient on the pigmented spots during 8 weeks. The objective assessment was done through the measurement and the comparison before and after treatment with the melanic index: Mexameter®. A clinical evaluation of the area and the intensity of the pigmented spots was assessed with Visual Analog Scales. The objective as well as the subjective results show a significant loss of pigmentation of the spots treated with TRIO-D® cream compared with the excipient cream since the first month of treatment. The efficacy of TRIO-D® cream is similar whatever the duration of melasma. H\litlist\studies 12/06 51 J. Bettinger, J. Fluhr, M. Gloor, W. Gehring, Have Oil/Water Emulsions a Dehydrating Effect on the Horny Layer, Euro Cosmetics 3/997 Since oil/water emulsifiers can be considered as surfactants which have a strong dehydrating effect, this study investigates the question of whether the usage of o/w emulsions also has a dehydrating effect on the skin. In 5 groups, each with 10 experimental subjects, five different o/w emulsions were used. One arm of each subject was treated with the emulsion over 3 days. Both arms were then washed with pure water and subsequently the moisture content of the horny layer measured with a corneometer. For unpretreated skin in all cases the washing lead to dehydration; none of the o/w emulsions led to any additional dehydrating effect. M. Kläsgen Radez, Wirkungskontrolle bei der Kosmetikherstellung - Kein Problem mit einem neuen System zur Hautprofilvermessung, Euro Cosmetics 3/97 W. Gehring, Einfluß von Ceramiden auf die Barrierefunktion der Haut in Abhängigkeit von ihrem Vehikel, SÖFW 4/97 Ceramide stellen einen wesentlichen Bestandteil der epidermalen Barrierelipide dar. In dem hohen Gehalt der Barrierelipide an Ceramiden wird ein wesentlicher Parameter für die epidermale Barrierefunktion und ein grundlegender Faktor für das Wasserbindungsvermögen der Hornschicht gesehen. Gegenstand der Untersuchungen war es, den Einfluß einer einmaligen Ceramidanwendung in einer W/O- und einer O/W-Emulsion sowie in liposomaler Formulierung auf die Barrierefunktion der Epidermis und die Hydratation des Stratum corneum zu untersuchen. Die Untersuchungen wurden vergleichend bei einem gesunden Kollektiv, bei experimentell induzierter trockener Haut - soweit es möglich war - auch bei Atopikern durchgeführt. Untersucht wurden zwei Phytoceramide und drei analoge synthetische Ceramide. J.W. Fluhr, W. Gehring, J. Bettinger, M. Gloor, Skin Visiometer SV 400 zur Hautrauhigkeitsmessung: EDV-gestützte Transmissions-Profilometrie, Kosmetische Medizin 18/1997 The Skin Visiometer SV400 is a high speed device with good reliability to measure the skin roughness. The measurement principal of the Skin Visiometer is based on light transmission of a silikone replica and the light-measurement with a CCD-camera. The great disadvantage of the Skin Visiometer is, in comparison to conventional profilometers, the missing validity. This new device could help to analyse skin roughness in studies with dermatologic and cosmetic products, light protection and skin aging effects. J.R. Mekkes, D.N.H. Enomoto, R. Hoekzema, J.D. Bos, C.de Borgie P.M.M. Bossuyt, Quantification of cutaneous sclerosis in patients with generalized scleroderma with a skin elasticity meter, American Academy of Dermatology, 55 th Annual Meeting March 1997 A skin score, a subjective assessment of skin elasticity, is widely used in patients with systemic sclerosis. Although this scoring method is regarded as validated and accepted tool, the interobsever and intraobserver reproducibility are relatively poor. Aim of the study: To investigate whether the recently developed SEM 474 cutometer, which exerts a controlled vacuum force to the skin, can measure skin elasticity more objectively. D.A. Comes, M.J. Dolan, E.J. Fendler, T.K. Turner, R.A. Williams, Effects of Alcohol Gel on Human Skin, American Academy of Dermatology, 55 th Annual Meeting March 1997 Alcohol has been historically recognized as a safe and effective topical antiseptic with the undesirable characteristic of skin drying. The formulation of alcohol gels may mitigate or eliminate the drying effect of the alcohol. This study was initiated to evaluate the effects of alcohol gels on the skin. D.A. Comes, M.J. Dolan, E.J. Fendler,R..A. Williams, A Unified Approach to the Evaluation of Occupational Irritant Dermatitis, American Academy of Dermatology, 55 th Annual Meeting March 1997 Occupational irritant dermatitis has historically been evaluated by utilizing visual observation. These clinical observations od skin condition and results from patch testing have limited sensitivity and some H\litlist\studies 12/06 52 degree of variability among trained evaluators. Recent advances in skin bioengineering instrumentation and techniques have reduced the variability among investigators and have increased the sensitivity of evaluation to the detection of subclinical levels of irritation. A software program has been developed by our lab to integrate and automate the operation, data storage, and data analysis of multiple skin bioengineering instrumentation. H. Zhai, H.I. Maibach, N. Poblete, A Stripped Skin Model to Predict the Irritation Potential of Topicals In Vivo in Man, American Academy of Dermatology, 55 th Annual Meeting March 1997 An in vivo human model was utilized to predict the irritation potential of barrier creams after partial removal of stratum corneum with cellophane tape stripping. M. Arens-Corell, Reinigung und Pflege der Babyhaut, Kosmetische Medizin 1997 18,2 Baby skin is highly sensitive concerning dehydration and irritation. Mild cleansing agents with maximum skin compatibility and adaptation of the pH of the cleansing product to 5.5 in accordance with the developing acid mantle of the skin are necessary. For skin care water-in-oil emulsions with a strong protective effect are predominantly used. Occlusion has to be avoided. Skin compatibility and care effect should be examined by Dermatologists. The diaper region must be protected from urine and feces by mild cleansing and special creams. H. Tronnier, An Irritation-Test for the Evaluation of “Sensitive Skin”, Tensides and Barrier- Cremes, Kosmetische Medizin 1997 18,2 Two variants of an irritation model are described, both of which are suitable for testing the irritation properties of surfactants as well as for determining the protective effect of skin ointments. This model can also be used to assess individual skin sensitivity in evaluations of possible occupational eczema and the length of time the subject in question is likely to remain in his/her present job. It may also prove useful for assessing job suitability. M.Gloor,S. Schermer, W. Gehring, Ist eine Kombination von Harnstoff und Glycerin in Externagrundlagen sinnvoll, Zeitschrift für Hautkrankheiten H+G 7 (72) 1997 The influence of a monotherapy with glycerol and urea, respectively, on the stratum corneum hydration against exsiccation by a tenside solution and on the skin - smoothing effect was investigated in comparison with a combination therapy with glycerol and urea. Here, an increase of 5% in the dose of urea in an oil-in-water did not produce significant advantages with regard to the stratum corneum hydration and the protective effect against the dehydration by tenside solutions. In contrast to this an increase in the dose of glycerol of over 5% in an oi-in-water-emulsion proved to be efficient under both criteria. With regard to the stratum corneum hydration and the protective effect against exsiccation by tensides, the combination of 5% glycerin and 5% urea was superior to a monotherapy, with exception of the oil-in-water-emulsion containg 10% glycerin. With regard to the smoothing effect only the combination of 5% urea and 5% glycerin produced a significant advantage. G. Sauermann, T. Mann, U. Hoppe, K. Takahashi, M. Tagawa, Skin Care Efficacy of Phospholipids, IFSCC and 4 th Hungarian Congress on Cosmetics and Household Chemicals, Budapest 1997 Goal of the study: The question was investigated whether phospholipids dispersed in a basic vehicle formulation display skin care potential. M.Fartasch, Praktischer Einsatz von Bioengineering-Methoden in der Berufsdermatologie: Möglichkeiten und Grenzen, 3. Dermatologisches Alpenseminar Berchtesgaden 1997 Nicht-invasive hautphysiologische Meßmethoden (bioengineering methods) bieten neue Möglichkeiten zur Erfassung der unterschiedlichen Reaktion der Haut auf die Irritation. Schädigungen der Haut, die zunächst nicht sichtbar sind, können durch einige dieser Meßverfahren bereits frühzeitig registriert werden. M.Gebhardt, C. Hersmann, A. Bauer, R. Bartsch, U. Wollina, W. Schneider, M. Stadeler, P. Grieshaber, Erfassung von Hautschädigungen im Rahmen einer Untersuchung von Auszubildenden des Bäcker- und Konditorhandwerks, 3. Dermatologisches Alpenseminar Berchtesgaden 1997 H\litlist\studies 12/06 53 In einer dermatologischen Verlaufsuntersuchung von Auszubildenden sollen Faktoren evaluiert werden, die die Vorhersage des Auftretens von berufsbedingten Hautproblemen ermöglichen und prämorbide oder Risikozustände charakterisieren helfen. J.C. Espejo, J.F. Vozmediano, Valoratión de la hidratación cutánea por métodos de exploración no invasivos, Piel Vol.12 No.6 1997 T. Russo, V. Landeryou, L. Hall, Polyglycerol Esters, A New Class of Active Skin Moisturisers, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 1997 This research has demonstrated that skin moisturisation properties of PGEs can be documented through the use of quantitative measurements. The substantivity studies have demonstrated that high HLB PEGs have the ability to be retained within the stratum corneum and are not easily removed via water washing. This substantive nature provides longer lasting skin moisturizing benefits. The independant research study at Clarkson University has provided new insight into the mechanism by which PEGs moisturise the skin. R. Wachter, M. Hofmann, C. Panzer, E. Stenberg, Hydagen®CMF, Multifunctional Agents of Biomarine Origin, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 1997 Chitosan is a natural polymer which is obtained from the shells of marine crustaceans. Different qualities of these cationic polymers were developed for the cosmetic industry according to a new process and tested in comparison with other film formers. Gute Pflege für die Fältchen, Tagescremes für die „reife“ Haut, Stiftung Warentest, Juli 1997 Siliconas Para La Industria Del Cuidado Personal, Ciencia & Cosmetica, Año 8 No. 14 Formulatión de productos para el cuidado de la piel y del cabello, de bellezea, para el afeitado y antitranspirantes/desodorantes. Usando fluidos, emulsiones y antiespumantes de siliconas suministrados por Dow Corning. W. Meuling, A. Franssen, D. Brouwer, J. van Hemmen, The influence of skin moisture on the dermal absorption of propoxur in human volunteers: a consideration for biological monitoring practices, The Science of the Total Environment, 1997 A large number of workers in agriculture are exposed daily (through skin contact) to pesticides either directly during mixing and loading or indirectly due to contact. The aim of this study was to investigate the influences of skin moisture on the dermal uptake of the pesticide propoxur. L. Pereira, M. Melo, I. Jaco, S. Abrunhosa, L. Rodrigues, Nonparametric System Analysis Approach for the Characterization of Skin Hydration Dynamics, Poster, IN COSMETICS/ISCD Conference, Düsseldorf 4-7 May 1997 L. Rodrigues, P. Pinto, P. Quaresma et al., Testing the Biological Efficacy of Facial Moisturising Creams, Short-Term and Long-Term Studies, Poster, IN COSMETICS/ISCD Conference, Düsseldorf 4-7 May 1997 P. daSilva, P. Pinto, N. Galego et al., Assessment of the Biological Effects of Human-like Ceramides, Poster, IN COSMETICS/ISCD Conference, Düsseldorf 4-7 May 1997 P. Quaresma, N. Silva, L. Gouveia et al., Effect of Post-occlusive Hydration on Human Skin Profile Evaluated by Light Transmission Optometrical Analysis, Poster, IN COSMETICS/ISCD Conference, Düsseldorf 4-7 May 1997 J.-L. Lévêque, Non-Invasive Methods for Efficacy Substantation: Importance and Limits, IFSCC Conference Mexico 25-27 September 1997 In the 1970’s and 80’s, the first measurements for the efficacy of cosmetics using non-invasive methods were obtained, and the surprise was not in being able to show that these products had real and measurable effects, but rather showing how significant and variable these improvements could be. H\litlist\studies 12/06 54 Today these methods remain indispensable but they must be used, as with all instruments, with care and with a critical approach so necessary for avoiding technical errors and misinterpretation. Since they can only provide indirect measurements, they cannot individually give a complete picture of the complexity of clinical phenomena and even less decribe the totality of a cosmetic property where, the pleasure of application, the sublety in the effect experienced and the result obtained in comparison to expectations and their own self-image, is blended together with the evaluation of the consumer. B.K. Sun, H.K. Lee, J.C. Cho, J.I. Kim, Clinical Improvement of Skin Aging by Retinol Containing Products: With Non-Invasive Methods, IFSCC Conference Mexico 25-27 September 1997 Retinol as well as RA (retinoic acid) is well known to have many benificial effects on (photo)aged skin. But the skin irritation potential and unstable condition of the products containing them have been some problems in their cosmetic uses. So, retinol containing gel product (MDC gel) was developed for less skin irritancy and more stability in cosmetic products. To examine the clinical effects of retinol containing product, we used clinical non-invasive assessment techniques on 40 volunteers for 6 months maintaining double-blind test conditions. According to our results, the use of retinol containing product improved skin color and hydration level slightly. But there was no statistical difference. There was no erythema reaction compared to the use of RA. Especially, the skin elasticity increased above 20% and skin wrinkles od crows‘feet region decreased more than 10%. Besides the instrumental analysis, a large majority of volunteers felt that their skin was improved in the case of wrinkles, elasticity, hydration and color. Hong-Keun Ji, Young-Hwan Jeon, Study on Stability, Efficacy, and Effect of a Cream Containing 5% of Retinyl Palmitate, IFSCC Conference Mexico 25-27 September 1997 Retinyl Palmitate, the skin normalizer, is useful to promote greater skin elasticity, to diminish lipid peroxidation and skin roughness following UV exposure, and promote a youthful general skin appearance. In manufacturing creams, Retinyl Palmitate (RP), which is a derivative of retinol, is used since retinol is easily oxidized by heat and light. However, only a small mount of retinyl palmitate is used since using a large amount of it may be harmful to its stability. In this study, thermal stability and UV stability of W/O-, W/S-, O/W-and MLV-type creams containing 5% of retinyl palmitate and 10% of tocopheryl acetate (TA) are measured by Chroma Meters, and the content of RP is quantitatively analyzed by HPLC at 25°C and 45°C. Also, how RP has been changed by heat, light, etc. is measured by HPLC, and toxicity of the changed substance is studied. Particle size of each type of the cream is measured, cellular renewal is measured by using DHA (dihydroxyacetone) and Chroma Meters in order to study their efficacy and effect, moisture content is measured by using Corneometer and Tewameter, and how much wrinkles are improved is studied by using Image Analyzer. Development of MLV-type cream containing 5% of RP and 10% of TA, and satisfying conditions for better creams has been successful. M. Kläsgen-Radez, Putting Claims to the Test, SPC Oktober 1997 The pressure is on to substantiate your product claims or drop them altogether. Michael Kläsgen- Radez of Courage + Khazaka explains how high-tech equipment is making this possible in skin care. D. Khazaka, Claim Support and Efficacy Testing, Industry Supplier News 1997 V. Zuang, C. Rona, F. Distante, E. Beradesca, The Use of a Capacitance Device to Evaluate the Hydration of Human Skin, J.Appl.Cosmetol. 15 July-Sept.1997 In this study , the Corneometer®CM 820 has been shown to be a sensitive and useful tool, able to quantify skin hydration in a rapid and inexpensive way. The study has been designed in such a manner as to avoid as much as possible the limitations of the instrument. However, even then the results have to be interpreted with caution, bearing in mind that the instrument only gives relative information on the water content of the stratum corneum and not absolute values. H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Results of the Skin Surface Analysis by Means of SELS, Akt. Dermatol. 23, 1997 H\litlist\studies 12/06 55 Surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) is a new optical-photoanalytical process. Four important parameters, determining the surface structure of the skin (scaling, roughness, wrinkling status and smoothness) can be recorded simultaneously. At the same time the image of the studied skin area can be used either directly or converted to colors chosen arbitrarily to represent different temperatures. The usefulness of the method is shown through examples of relevant influences on the skin surface and their effect on the SELS values, as well as by the results of comparative treatments of several weeks‘duration. Constitutional, topical and age dependant skin surface structures can also be recorded by means of this method. A .Pagnoni, A. M. Kligman, T. Stoudemayer, Image Analysis of Cyanoacrylate Follicular Biopsies, CRC Press, chapter 9, pp. 113-119, 1997. The cyanoacrylate follicular biopsy (CFB) is the most reliable tool to sample the follicular contents of facial skin. In 1971, Marks and Dawber introduced the cyanoacrylate “skin surface biopsy” to study the stratum corneum. This polymer removes the outermost horny layer as a sheet. They showed how this quick and convenient method could be used to examine the glyphic pattern, to search for fungi, or to study diseases in which the stratum corneum is prominently involved. B.C. Murray, R.R. Wicket, Correlations between Dermal Torque Meter®, Cutometer®, and Dermal Phase Meter® measurements of human skin, Skin Research and Technology 1997-3 The Dermal Torque Meter® (DTM) and the Cutometer® are instruments that measure mechanical properties of skin. The NOVATMDermal Phase Meter® (DPM) measures the stratum corneum(SC) hydration level. The objectives of this study were to determine which parameters of the DTM data curves were most sensitive to changes in SC hydration level, which of the two instruments (Cutometer or DTM) was most sensitive, and what correlations existed between the Cutometer and DTM data. A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, In vitro calibration of the capacitance method (Corneometer CM 825) and conductance method (Skicon-200) for the evaluation of the hydration state of the skin, Skin Research and Technology 1997-3 A major problem with electrical measurements of the capacitance of the skin using the well known capacitance method (Corneometer) resides in the fact that the results of this instrument are expressed as arbitrary capacitance hydration units that are not directly related to real electrical units or to the water content of the horny layer. The purpose of this study was to establish a calibration of the capacitance method using a simple in vitro simulation system of the horny layer. E. Beradesca, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods, Skin Research and Technology 1997-3 The improvement of stratum corneum hydration is one of the most important claims in the cosmetic industry. Objective assessment of moisturization can be done with devices based on electrical methods provided these instruments are used in a appropriate manner. P. Clarys, I. Manou, A.O. Barel, Influence of temperature on irritation in the hand/forearm immersion test, Contact Dermatitis Vol.36 No.5 1997 As indicated by in vitro experiments the penetration of irritants through the skin is significantly influenced by the temperature of the solution. In vivo experiments, demonstrated equally a significant influence of temperature in surfactant-induced skin irritation. In order to evaluate the irritant potential of detergent solutions under normal user conditions, we used the hand/forearm immersion test. We compared 2 detergents with different anionic character in a repetitive immersion protocol (30 min immersion on 4 consecutive days). The solutions were tested at 2 temperatures (37°C and 40°C). The irritation was quantified by assessment of the stratum corneum barrier function (transepidermal water loss), skin redness (a*colour parameter) and skin dryness (capacitance method). Both detergents affected the integrity of the skin in a significant way. The anionic content as well as the temperature of the solutions were found to be determinative for the irritant potential, with a stronger response for higher anionic content and temperature, respectively. H\litlist\studies 12/06 56 M. Lodén, Barrier recovery and influence of irritant stimuli in skin treated with a moisturizing cream, Contact Dermatitis, Vol.36, No.5, 1997 Moisturizers are used daily by many people to alleviate symptoms of clinically and subjectively dry skin. Recent studies suggest that certain ingredients in creams may accelerate the recovery of a disrupted barrier and decrease the skin susceptibility to irritant stimuli. In the present single-blind study, a moisturizing cream was tested for its influence both on barrier recovery in surfactant-damaged skin and on the susceptibility of normal skin to exposure to the irritant sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Parameters measured were transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin corneometer values, indicating degree of hydration. Treatment of surfactant-damaged skin with the test cream for 14 days promoted barrier recovery, as observed as a decrease in TEWL. Skin corneometer values also normalized more rapidly during the treatment. In normal skin, use of the test cream significantly reduced TEWL after 14 day of treatment, and irritant reactions to SLS were significantly decreased. Skin corneometer values increased after only one application and remained elevated after 14 days. In conclusion, the accelerated rate of recovery of surfactant-damaged skin and the lower degree of SLS-induced irritation in normal skin treated with the test cream may be of clinical relevance in attempts to reduce contact dermatitis due to irritant stimuli. A. Di Nardo, S. Seidenari, P.W. Wertz, A. Giannetti, Barrier impairment in atopic dermatitis skin correlates with an alteration in ceramide stratum corneum composition, Australian Journal of Dermatology: Abstracts 19 th World Congress of Dermatology, Sydney, June 1997 Atopic dermatitis skin shows a tendency to be easily irritated and appears dry. This clinic pecularity corresponds to impaired barrier function and to increased TEWL values. A few studies suggest that a reduced amount of total ceramides (especially of ceramide 1) deriving from epidermal keratinocytes are responsible for functional abnormalities of the skin of atopic dermatitis (AD) patients. The aim of the present study was to analyze the relationship between epidermal lipids and barrier impairment in atopic dermatitis skin. I. Tausch, K. Bohnsack, A. Schölermann, F. Rippke, J. Grassmüller, Efficacy of Eucerin® 10% urea cream and Aquadrate® cream in the treatment of xeroderma, Australian Journal of Dermatology: Abstracts 19 th World Congress of Dermatology, Sydney, June 1997 To compare the efficacy and safety of a 10% urea containing cream (Eucerin® 10% Urea Cream) with Aquadrate®Cream and demonstrate essential similarity in the treatment of xerosis a doubleblind intraindividual comparative study according to GCP standards was performed. H. Blitz, M. Schidelko, H.P. Nissen, H. Driller, Skin mechanics measured in vivo: A new and accurate model more sensitive to age and moisturising treatment, Australian Journal of Dermatology: Abstracts 19 th World Congress of Dermatology, Sydney, June 1997 Measurements of skin mechanics are required to better understand the condition of human skin and loss of elasticity in the epidermis. The study presents a new method which shows that cosmetic products are capable to induce significant changes in the mechanical properties of human skin after an application twice a day for one week. I. Effendy, H.I. Maibach, In vivo functional changes in human stratum corneum induced by substances with known irritation properties, Australian Journal of Dermatology: Abstracts 19 th World Congress of Dermatology, Sydney, June 1997 Functional changes in stratum corneum of normal human skin induced by repeated application of all- trans retinoic acid (RA), glycolic acid (GA) and calcipotriol was investigated in 6 healthy volunteers in comparison with sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), a standard irritant. RA (0.1%) in ethanol, GA (12%) in water, calcipotriol (0.005%) ointment and SLS (1%) in water were applied with occlusion for 60 minutes once a day, over a period of 2 weeks (5 consecutive days weekly) on dansyl chloride-labelled skin and on untreated skin. Changes in stratum corneum were examined utilizing noninvasive bioengineering techniques. H\litlist\studies 12/06 57 D.A. Comes, M.J. Dolan, E.J. Fender, R.A. Williams, Treatment of contact dermatitis in the health care and automotive occupations, Australian Journal of Dermatology: Abstracts 19 th World Congress of Dermatology, Sydney, June 1997 Irritant and allergic contact dermatitis is a serious problem in many occupations. Among those with the most severe problems are automotive and body shop technicians and health care professionals. However, there is a dearth of studies which objectively characterize the extent of contact dermatitis in these occupations. T. Hariya, K. Inoue, Y. Umino, H. Ichikawa, Alteration of physiological parameters and the amount of skin slgA in sensitive skin, Australian Journal of Dermatology: Abstracts 19 th World Congress of Dermatology, Sydney, June 1997 In recent surveys, more than 30% of healthy female as well as patients suffered from certain skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis or rosacea-like dermatitis believe that they have sensitive skin, and the population of this group has been expanding. It has been reported that a symptom of atopic dermatitis is influenced by exacerbating factors such as physical conditions. In this study, we examined the effects of these excerbating factors on skin physiological parameters and secretory lgA amount in healthy female volunteers with sensitive skin. R.A. Tupker, The value of transepidermal water loss measurement in skin irritancy testing, Experimental Dermatology Vol 6 No 5, ISICD and ISBS Meeting Rome 2-4 October 1997 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement is a highly sensitive method to determine barrier function impairment of the stratum corneum. By means of TEWL measurement it is possible to discriminate between detergents according to their irritancy, using different types of exposure methods. The same holds true for other irritants that exert their irritant action by impairing the barrier function of the skin. A.Di Nardo, A. Conti, M. Martini, S. Seidenari, In vivo assessment of n-alkyl-sulfate-induced skin irritation: By means of non invasive methods, Experimental Dermatology Vol 6 No 5, ISICD and ISBS Meeting Rome 2-4 October 1997 Sodium Lauryl sulfate is the most frequently used model for studying in vivo irritation. It is also one of the most frequent surfactants in soap preparations and cosmetic emulsions. To investigate the irritant potential of sodium salts of n-alkyl sulfates with different carbon chain length (n=8, 12, 14) we applied these substances on the volar forearm of 10 human healthy volunteers aged 24 to 35. A.O. Barel, R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, B.M. Morrison, M. Paye, Comparative study of the effect on the skin of two soap bars in normal use and in the soap chamber test, Experimental Dermatology Vol 6 No 5, ISICD and ISBS Meeting Rome 2-4 October 1997 A double-blind study of the normal use during 10 weeks of two soap bars (soap and a syndet) was carried out on 25 female subjects. Eventual skin changes were evaluated by bioengineering measurements during the ten weeks treatment. Characterization of the skin was carried out using measurements of the skin colour, hydation, skin surface pH and TEWL. D.A. Comes, M.J. Dolan, E.J. Fendler, R.A. Williams, Characterization and treatment of occupational contact dermatitis, Experimental Dermatology Vol 6 No 5, ISICD and ISBS Meeting Rome 2-4 October 1997 During the last two decades, bioengeneering techniques have emerged as highly effective tools for the evaluation of skin condition. Studies have been performed to assesss the potential of skin bioengineering instrumentation and techniques for the evaluation and treatment of occupational skin condition. Using large panels of automotive technicians, bioengineering techniques, such as TEWL and skin hydration, were used to characterize the extent of contact dematitis and the effectiveness of intervention with protective moisturizing creams. G. Richter, St. Großmann, Comparison of special skin protective creams and ointment basis (German Pharmacopoeta DAB10) in different irritation models, Experimental Dermatology Vol 6 No 5, ISICD and ISBS Meeting Rome 2-4 October 1997 H\litlist\studies 12/06 58 Skin irritation was performed with sodium lauryl sulphate (1% and 2%, big Finn Chamber, 30 min, day 1 to 5 and 8 to 11, volar side of the right forearm) or with the skin disinfectant Sterillium® (open, 30 min, 3 times daily, day 1 to 5 and 8 to 11, volar side of the left forearm), respectively on all 21 human volunteers. Assessment data: Tewameter-, Chromameter-, Corneometer-data and visual score. E. Schnetz, O. Kuss, H. Merck, P. Elsner, P.J. Frosch, M. Lange, T.L. Diepgen, M. Fartasch, Development and evaluation of an in vivo test model for cumulative irritation - first results of a multi center study, Experimental Dermatology Vol 6 No 5, ISICD and ISBS Meeting Rome 2-4 October 1997 The aim of this multi center study is the development of a protection factor for barrier creams. The first step is to find a test model which produces reliable results and is reproducible in all centers and easy to handle. We tested a cumulative irritation model over 14 days with a break at the weekend. D.A. Comes, M.J. Dolan, E.J. Fendler, T.K. Turner, and R.A. Williams, Physiological and Microbiological Effects of Topical Alcohol Gel Use, GOJO Industrie, Inc. 1997 F. Stäb, G. Sauermann, and U. Hoppe, Evaluation of Moisturizers, Bioengineering of the Skin CRCPress Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis 1997 The stratum corneum (SC) skin of human consists of 15 or more layers of dead corneocytes, depending on the skin site. The water content of the outermost layers of SC is very low in comparison with the innermost part of SC and the lower layers of the epidermis. Therefore, the existence of a physiological relevant water gradient in stratum corneum can be generally assumed. Along this gradient, water diffuses passively from the living part of the epidermis to the skin surface. this normal physiological transeqidermal water loss depends on an intact barrier function of SC and appears to also be important for the transepidermal signalling and regulation of the cell renewal rate in the epidermal basal keratinocyte layer. The water content of the stratum corneum is influenced by endogenous and exogenous parameters and can even be modulated by environmental humidity. JS. Dikstein, Inna Oreper, Liquid Make-up and Skin Surface pH. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. It was suggested that, if a cosmetic agent changes the skin surface pH outside its normal range for more than 3 hours, then a chronic study is indicated to show lack of undesirable side effects (Biogeng.and Skin 1, 57-58, 1985), since it is desirable to keep any skin parameter within its „representative“ or „desired“ range. D.R. Black, J.M. Lagarde, C.M. Auzoux, Y. Gall, IRPF Centre JL Alibert, CHU Rangueil, , An Improved Method for the Measurement of Scalp Sebum. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. M.Lodén, ACO Hud, R&D, Danderyd, Sweden, Measuring Hydration of the Skin: A Practical Approach. Skin Research and Technology,Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. A.O. Barel, Mechanical Function of the Skin: State of the Art. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. A. Di Nardo, C. Cota, L. Mantovani, S. Seidenari, Evaluation of Organic Solvent-Induced Damage by Non Invasive Measuring Methods. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.2, No. 4, Nov 1996. D.A. Comes, E.J. Fendler, M.J. Dolan, and R.A. Williams, Work Cream Effectiveness with a Heavy Duty Skin Cleanser. Skin Research and Technology,Vol.2, No.4, Nov 1996. M.A. Francomano, K. Mantovani, P. Pepe, A. Di Nardo and S. Seidenari, Basline Biophysical Skin Parameters in Subjects with Sensitive Skin. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 2, No. 4, Nov 1996. H. Dobrev, Age-Related Changes in Skin Mechanical Properties. 5 th National Conference of Gerontology and Geriatry, October 1996 J.W. Wiechers, A Supplier’s contribution to performance testing of personal care ingredients. SÖFW-Journal, 123. Jahrgang 14/97 H\litlist\studies 12/06 59 Current cosmetic formulations address a wide variety of customer needs. This variety requires a plethora of personal care ingredients. In order to create excellent new products, it is essential that the formulator not only knows the physical properties of the components (s)he chooses, but also the skin performance that these products may have. In order to facilitate the selection process for the formulator, we have investigated the effect of our products against some of the most prominent claim areas of cosmetic products: skin moisturisation, elasticity, substantivity, and mildness. H. Drobrev, In Vivo Study of Skin Mechanical Properties in Scleredema of Buschke. Derma 1029. October 1997 A non-invasive, in vivo suction device was used to investigate the mechanical properties of the skin in a patient with scleredema of Buschke. Clinical scoring of skin induration and measurements of skin elasticity were performed over 9 anatomic regions on admission and after 3 (on discharge), 17 and 28 months. Immediate distension, final distension and immediate retraction were significantly decreased, while the viscoeleastic to elastic ratio was significantly increased in the patient as compared to the healthy controls. Delayed distension and biological elasticity were preserved. Low value of skin distensibility correlated with a severe skin induration (p<<0.001). The changes were more expressive with the 8 mm-diameter measuring probe than the 2 mm-diameter probe. The method applied can be used for objective and quantitative assessment of skin involvement in scleredema of Buschke. H. Dobrev, In Vivo Study of Skin Mechanical Properties in Patients with Systemic Sclerosis. 5 th Nat.Congress of Theumatology in Sofia, November 1997. Background: Measurements of skin elasticity are more sensitive than the skin severity score and very appropriate for an evaluation of sclerodermatous skin. H. Dobrev and L. Zissova, Effect of Ketoconazole 2% Shampoo on Scalp Sebum Level in Patients with Seborrhoeic Dermatitis. Acta Derm Venereal, Stockholm 1997 Twenty patients with scalp seborrhoeic dermatitis were treated twice weekly with ketoconazole 2% shampoo for 4 weeks. Clinical assessment, culture for P. ovale on Dixon broth and lipid measurement at two places were made before treatment and after 2 and 4 weeks. Significant improvement of the severity of seborrhoeic dermatitis (p<0.001) and negative mycological tests by 19 (95%) of patients were observed. The scalp lipid content remained unaltered in 11 patients with an initial lipid value over 220 µg/cm² but increased those with lower initial values. H. Dobrev, Changes of Epidermal Hydration after Single Application of Different Moisturizers. 1 st Balkan Congress of Medicine, October 1997 H. Dobrev, Use of Cutometer to Assess Dermal Oedema in Erysipeals of the Lower Legs. 1 st Balkan Congress of Medicine, October 1997 H. Dobrev, In Vivo Study of Skin Mechanical Properties in Erysipelas of the Lower Legs. 1 st Balkan Congress of Medicine, October 1997 H. Dobrev, Value of the Non-Invasive Skin Bioengineering Investigations in Patients with Scleroderma (Review). 5 th National Congress of Rheumatology, November 1997 D.W. Ramsing, T. Agner, Preventive and Therapeutic Effects of a Moisturizer. Acta Dermatovenereologica, September 1997 P. Clarys, I. Manou, A. Barel, Relationship Between Anatomical Skin Site And Response To Halcinonide And Methyl Nicotinate Studied By Bioengineering Techniques. Skin Research and Technology 3/1997 Regional differences in percutaneous penetration and skin properties are well documented. However, only a few studies have investigated the relationship between substance penetration and specific skin characteristics in function of the body region. It was our aim to evaluate the physiological effect of topically applied substances in function of skin parameters determined at different body regions. P.Clarys, R.Lambrecht A.O. Barel, Does Lipid Sampling With The Sebutape Technique Disturb The Skin Physiology? Skin Research and Technology 3/1997. H\litlist\studies 12/06 60 Lipid sampling with the Sebutape technique takes at least 1 h in order to obtain a representative follicular pattern. Subsequent morphometric analysis reveals different parameters on the sebum excretion. However, application of Sebutape may disturb the normal skin physiology, and hence sebum excretion, due to an occlusive effect. The aim of the present sutdy was to evaluate whether collection of skin surface lipids with Sebutape influences skin parameters such as TEWL, skin temperature and stratum corneum hydration. Eva-Maria Röpke, W. Augustin, H. Gollnick, Lipidbestimmung der Hautoberfläche mittels Cyanoacrylattechnik…, Kosmetische Medizin Vol. 18, 2; 1997, pp. 130-134. Epidermale und Sebumlipide sind ein permanentes Untersuchungsgebiet in Studien über Akne und die Barrierefunktion der Haut. Unser Ziel war es, eine Methode zur Anwendung zu bringen, die einerseits eine nichtinvasive Probengewinnung beinhaltet, das heißt, die den Patienten möglichst wenig belastet und andererseits schnell und unkompliziert auszuführen ist. L. Rodriges, P. Pinto, N. Galego, L.M. Pereira, Usefulness of Mathematical Modelling Application To Comparative Testing. Skin Research and Technology 3/1997. L.Rodrigues, P.Pinto, N.Galego, M.Fitas, L.M. Pereira, Skin Permeation Fundamentals-Effects On Skin Physiological Properties Through Electrical Modulation. Skin Research and Technology 3/1997. St. Seidenari, Follow Up of Inflammatory Diseases Using 20 MHz Sonography. Skin Research and Technology 3/1997. N.Issachar, Y.Gall, M.T.Borell, M.C.Poelman, pH Measurements During Lactic Acid Stinging Test in Normal and Sensitive Skin. Contact Dermatitis 1997 Ch Fox, Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Vehicles: Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup and Sunscreens. Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 1998 The author surveys 39 articles and patents from the past four years for advances in the science and technology of cosmetic and pharmaceutical vehicles. Here, in Part 2 of a two-part series, topics include hair-care vehicles, lipsomes, makeup, shampoos, skin-care vehicles, sticks and sunscreen vehicles. Beweiskraft der Tests. Beauty Forum 1/98 Für jedes Hautproblem bietet die Kosmetikindustrie die wirksame Patentlösung - zumindest laut werbekräftiger Aussagen. W.D. Becker, J. Bajor, K. Hoyberg, S. Hillmer, D.M.D. Thiboutot, H. Knaggs, Measurement of Human Surface Sebum Levels. AAD, Orlando, March 1998 Hongbo Zhai, Ya-ching Chang, Malkiat Singh, H.I. Maibach, An In Vivo Nickel Allergic Contact Dermatitits (ACD) Human Model For Topical Therapeutics. AAD, Orlando, March 1998 MP. Vienne, S. Cours Darne, C. Lauze, P. Dupuy, Repairing Effect and Tolerance of Amerma Oat Milk Treatment Cream and Aveeno Moisturizing Cream on Damaged Skin, AAD, Orlando, March 1998 M. Morrison, Y. Cartiaux, M. Paye, Charbonnier, H. Maibach, Demonstrating Invisible (Subclinical) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Irritation with Squamometry, AAD, Orlando, March 1998 S.A.Barkovic, Y. Appa, G. Payonk, A Clinical Evaluation of a Glycolic Acid Hand Treatment with Retinyl Palmitate and an SPF 15 on Photoaged Hands, AAD, Orlando, March 1998 S. dos Santos Guerra Filho, Evaluation of Potential Irritation of Cosmetic Products, International Cosmetic Expo’98, Miami February 1998 The continual need in the cosmetic industries for developing products with low irritation or sensibilizing potential has forced constant improvements in evaluation techniques utilized by the testing laboratories. The scientific literature is extensive in papers discussing the direct correlation H\litlist\studies 12/06 61 between the increse of the TEWL in parallel with the skin irritation in products. It is not appropriate to generalize this fact because in some cases the increased TEWL is not matched at the same intensity by skin irritation. We have evaluated emulsion and tensoactive systems utilized in hair products, and our conclusion is that in some systems the TEWL increase did not necessarily correlate to the irritation due to the molecular weight of the tensoactive utilized. The evaluation of a formulation must include both TEWL and irritation tests simultaneously. Glättende Wirkung im Vordergrund. Dermaforum März 1998 G. Gallacher, H.I. Maibach, Is Atopic Dermatitis a Predisposing Factor for Experimental Acute Irritant Contact Dermatitis?, Contact Dermatitis Vol. 38 No. 1, January 1998 Proclivity to acute irritant contact dermatitis has been reviewed by comparing the response in patients with atopic dermatitits to controls. Although several controlled studies demonstrate such a poclivity, others do not, suggesting that the mechanisms involved are complex. H. Lautenschläger, H.P. Nissen, W. Wieland, Neue Untersuchungen zur Hautverträglichkeit von Kühlschmierstoffen. Arbeitsmedizin Sozialmedizin Umweltmedizin, Heft 12, Dezember 1997 Kühlschmierstoffe sind sehr weit verbreitete Arbeitsstoffe, insbesondere in der metallverarbeitenden Industrie. Aus arbeitsmedizinischer Sicht steht die Hautverträglichkeit dieser Produkte im Vordergrund. Die vorliegende Messungen und Daten zum transepidermalen Wasserverlust und zur Chromametrie zeigen, daß Kühlschmierstoffe hinsichtlich ihrer akuten Hautverträglichkeiten und der Langzeitwirkungen auf die Haut differenziert werden können. Dadurch werden sowohl dem Hersteller als auch dem Verwender meßbare Kriterien bezüglich der Auswhl dieser Arbeitsstoffe an die Hand gegeben. T. Fischer, C. Greif, W. Wigger-Alberti, P. Elsner, Instrumentelle Methoden zur Bewerbung der Sicherheit und Wirksamkeit von Kosmetika, Kursprogramm Sicherheitsaspekte in der Kosmetik, Basel, Mai 1998 Durch die Erfordernisse eines Wirksamkeits- und Sicherheitsnachweises für Kosmetika gewinnen nichtinvasive biophysikalische Meßmethoden zunehmend an Bedeutung. Neben der Bestimmung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes und der Messung der Hautfeuchtigkeit, des Oberflächenfettes, des pH-Werts, und der Elastizität kommen der Bestimmung des Oberflächenreliefs, der Farbe und der Hautdurchblutung große Bedeutung zu. Mit diesen Methoden können u.a. die hautfeuchtigkeitsfördernden, glättenden und straffenden Wirkungen von Topika sowie der Grad der Irritation durch Externa valuiert werden. Zur Messung der Vergleichbarkeit dieser unterschiedlichen Funktionsparameter sind standardisierte Meßbedingungen erforderlich. Th. Gassenmeier, W. Pittermann, S. Nieveler, Th. Förster, M. Kietzmann, Experimentally induced epidermal barrier perturbation: Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using the isolated perfused bovine udder skin (BUS) model. Poster Henkel 5/1998 R. Vanbever, D. Fouchard, A. Jadoul, N. De Morre, V. Préat, JP Marty, In vivo Noninvasive Evaluation of Hairless Rat Skin after High-Voltage Pulse Exposure. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 1998 Short high-voltage pulses have recently been shown to dramatically increase and expedite transdermal drug transport via a mechanism bypothesized to involve electroporation. This study addresses tolerance issues of the method in vivo in hairless rat. Chromametry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), laser Doppler flowmetry (LDF) and corneometry were jointly used for noninvasive sensing of skin biophysical parameters. Slight increases in skin redness, TEWL and LDF values followed the application of electric pulses. The changes in skin capacitance were nonisignificant. The magnitude of the alterations depended on the electrical features of the pulses. When compared to iontophoresis, high-voltage pulses did not induce stronger alterations of skin functions. This report provides the first in vivo demonstration of the safety of the high-voltage pulses proposed for transdermal delivery. H\litlist\studies 12/06 62 Dr.R. Ward, The Human Factor - SPC March 1998 With the proposed ban on animal testing on the horizon, Dr. Rachel Ward looks at the ethical aspects of human volunteer testing. J. Hart, Ch. Polla, Oat Fractions. Cosmetics & Toiletries March 1998 Clinical and in vitro studies demonstrate the ability os specific topically applied oat fractions (oat ß- glucan, hydrolyzed oat protein and oat extract) to provide targeted benefits in the skin care and hair care. M. Arens-Corell, J. Welzel, HH Wolff, Beurteilung von Hautreinigungsmitteln für trockene und empfindliche Haut. Kosmetische Medizin 1/1998. Die zunehmende Problematik trockener und empfindlicher Haut in der Bevölkerung macht die Entwicklung geeigneter Reinigungsmittel notwendig. Ihre Hautverträglichkeit und minimierte Austrocknungwirkung kann in dermatologisch kontrollierten Anwendungsbeobachtungen unter Einbeziehung der Messung hautphysiologischer Parameter objektiv geprüft werden. Das Beispiel eines Duschöls und einer Waschemulsion für trockene und empfindliche Haut zeigt, daß durch einen hohen Ölanteil ebenso wie durch die Auswahl milder Syndetsubstanzen bei Anpassung des pH-Wertes im Hautphysiologischen, leicht sauren Bereich die Hautreinigung unter Praxisbedingungen ohne Austrocknung und Irritationen möglich ist. Einfluß des pH-Wertes von Kosmetika. Kosmetische Praxis 2/98 Der saure Oberflächen-pH-Wert der Haut erfüllt wichtige Schutzfunktionen. Über die Einwirkung von Reinigungsprodukten auf die Residentflora, die Barrierefunktion und die Regeneration der Haut liegen umfassende Untersuchungen vor. Wie abersieht es beim pH-Wert von Hautpflegepräparaten aus, die auf der Haut verbleiben ? Sauer und alkalisch. Kosmetische Praxis 2/98 Der pH-Wert der Hautoberfläche schwankt zwischen 5,0 und 6,0. Da Lösungen mit einem pH-Wert kleiner als 7 sauer reagieren, zeigt die Haut demnach eine saure Reaktion. Dieser Säuremantel hemmt die Aktivität krankmachender Bakterien und Pilze. Mit ein wichtiger Grund diesen Säureschutzmantel nicht zu zerstören. JW Fluhr, G Vrzak, M Gloor, Hydratisierender und die Steroidpenetration modifizierender Effekt von Harnstoff und Glycerin in Abhängigkeit von der verwendeten Grundlage. H+G 4/1998 Ausgangspunkt war die bekannte hydratisierende Wirkung von Harnstoff und Glycerin auf die Hornschicht bei Anwendung in Externagrundlagen, die bekannte penetrationsfördernde Wirkung von Harnstoff auf Dermatokortikosteroide sowie der penetrationsfördernde Effekt von Glycerin, der früher für Hexylnikotinat nachgewiesen worden war. Überprüft werden sollte die Konzentrationsabhängigkeit der Wirkung von Harnstoff und Glycerin, die Abhängigkeit der Wirkung dieser Wirkstoffe vom verwendeten Vehikel und die Penetrationsbeeinflussung für Hydrokortison durch Glycerin. Untersucht wurden insgesamt 49 Versuchspersonen, die Hydratisierung wurde mit Hilfe der Corneometrie und Skicon-Methode gemessen, die Wirkstoffpenetration für Hydrokortison mit Hilfe des Blanchingeffektes. Die Untersuchungen zeigen, daß Harnstoff und Glycerin in allen verwendeten O/W- und W/O-Grundlagen eine vergleichbare hydratisierende Wirkung aufweisen. Eine Steigerung der Harnstoff- Konzentration von 5 auf 10% erbrachte keine eindeutigen Vorteile, whrend 10% Glycerin unabhängig von der Grundlage effektiver als 5% ist. Harnstoff wirkt nicht in jedem Vehikel penetrationsförderned auf Steroide, sondern nur in der verwendeten wasserreichen O/W- Emulsion. Glycerin beeinflußte bei den vorliegenden Untersuchungen die Hydrokortisonpenetration nicht. H. Zhai, Y-H. Leow, H.I. Maibach, Human Barrier Recovery After Actue Acetone Perturbation: An Irritant Dermatitis Model. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, Vo. 23 No. 1 January 1998 H\litlist\studies 12/06 63 The Efficacy of a topical agent in barrier recovery was evaluated after acetone-induced acute water loss barrier disruption in vivo in humans. The upper back of several volunteers was rubbed with acetone-soaked cotton balls until elevated rates of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) occurred. P. Grimes, Cosmetic Issues For Ethnic Women, 3 rd Int.Symposium on Cosmetic Efficacy, May 1998 P.Teofoli, G.Monticone, O.De Pita, M. Ribuffo, Hydroquione Or Kojic Acid For The Treatment Of Malasma Colorimetric Evaluation And Effects On Skin Barrier Function (TEWL) And Hydration. 3 rd Int.Symposium on Cosmetic Efficacy, May 1998 E.J.Thumm, C.Bayerl, E.G. Jung, Evaluation Of The Efficacy Of Cosmetic Products By Using Profilometry. 3 rd Int.Symposium on Cosmetic Efficacy, May 1998 H. Tronnier, M. Weibusch, U. Heinrich, R. Stute, Surface Evaluation Of Living Skin. 3 rd Int.Symposium on Cosmetic Efficacy, May 1998 J.W. Fluhr, M. Gloor, W. Gehring, Protective Value of Bath Oils With Different Solvent Characteristics Against Irritation. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Vol. 110, No. 4, April 1998. J.I.Ademola, A.Cua, S. Amin, P.Liu, J. Avalos,L. Miller, M. Miller, N. Scrofani, A. Anigbogu, H.I. Maibach, Dermatopharmacokinetics Of Topical Formulations In Human Stratum Corneum. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Vol. 110, No. 4, April 1998. W.D. Becker, J.S. Bajor, K. Hoyberg, S. Hillmer, D. Thiboutot, H. Knaggs, Measurement Of Human Surface Sebum Levels. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Vol. 110, No. 4, April 1998. J. Gottfreund, T. Meyer, Die Bedeutung des pH-Wertes 5,5 in Emulsionen. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 3, 1998. Es wird die Bedeutung des pH-Wertes 5.5 in Emulsionen dargestellt. In einer W/O-Emulsion wurde der pH-Wert der Wasserphase auf einen Wert von 5,5 eingestellt. Es ließ sich zeigen, daß der durch Umwelteinflüsse tiefe pH-Wert der Haut sich an 5,5 anpaßt. Bei der Auswahl der Rohsteoffe für den Fettkörper einer Emulsion müssen die speziellen Bedingungen, die durch den pH-Wert bedingt sind, berücksichtigt werden. Irene Tausch, Betsy Hughes-Formella, Andrea Schölermann, F. Rippke, Harnstoff-ein wichtiger Wirkstoff in der Dermatotherapie. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 3., 1998. Die hydratisierenden eigenschaften der Präparate Eucerin® 10% Urea Lotio und Eucerin® Salbe 10% Urea wurden in kontrollierten klinischen Prüfungen über 4 Wochen an insgesamt 78 Patienten mit trockener Haut bei atopischen Ekzem im erscheinungsfreien Intervall im Vergleich zu der wirkstoffreien Grundlage (Lotio) bzw. zu unbehandelter Haut (Salbe) geprüft. Beide Präparationen führten im Vergleich zu den Ausgangswerten zu einer signifikanten Erhöhung des Wassergehaltes der Hautoberfläche. W. John Kitzmiller, L. Singer, D. Page, M. Visscher, R.R. Wickett, Use of Noninvasive Biophysical Techniques to Compare Effects of Laser Resurfacing and Dermabrasion on Perioral Skin. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98 (Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 ) St.B. Hoath, D.E. Bare, K.A. Munson, M.O. Visscher, R.R. Wickett, Changes in Stratum corneum Hydration, Acidity, And Optical Properties in Newborn Infants During The First Hours of Life. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. (Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 ) G.Yosipovitch, A. Mayan, M. David, P. Merlov, L. Sirota, Transepidermal Water Loss, Stratum corneum Moisture and Skin Surface pH of the New Born Infant in Different Body Areas, 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98.( Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999) R.R. Warner, K.J. Stone, Y.L. Boissy, N.Lilly, M.J. Spears, Electron Microscopy of Hydrated Skin: Water Disrupts the Barrier Lipids. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. H\litlist\studies 12/06 64 E.J. Fendler, B. Hammond, R.A. Williams, M.J. Dolan, A Controlled Use Trial Of Protective Hand Cream in The Metal Working Industry. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. J. Fluhr, M.Gloor, F. Distante, S. Lazzerini, E. Berardesca, Glycerol Modulates Recovery of Barrier Function In Vivo. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. P. Clarys, A.O Barel, Percutaneous Penetration Models In Vivo - Evaluation By Means Of Non- Invasive Biophysical Measurement Techniques. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. B. Gabard, Dry Skin and the Cosmetic Benefit of Moisturization. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. M. Paye, G. Gomes, Ch. Zerweg, GE Pierard, GG Grove, A Hand Immersion Test in Laboratory- Controlled Usage conditions: A Need For Sensitive and Controlled Assessment Methods. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. E. Berardesca, S Lazzerini, F. Pirot, M. Singh, H.I. Maibach, Racial Differences in pH and TEWL Gradient into Superficial Stratum Corneum, 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, B. Gabard, A.O. Barel, Relation Between Capacitance Measurements and Biomechanical Skin Properties Under Different Hydration Conditions. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. B.M. Morrison, Y. Cartiaux, M. Paye, V. Charbonnier, H.I. Maibach, Demonstrating Invisible (Subclinical) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Irritation with Squamometry. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. Ph. Humbert, H. Zahouani, N. Bizouard, J. Asserin, J.Arnaud-Battandier, Evaluation of Efficacy of an Anti-Aging CreamContaining Anti-Glycation Agents and Vitamins Using a Non-Invasive Method. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. P.Y. Rizvi, St. Kaplan, B.M. Morrison, Seasonal Skin Changes as Measured by Biophysical Instruments. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. A.O. Barel, P. Clarys, Skin Surface Color Measurements - A Comparison Between the Chromameter® and the Mexameter. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. J.W. Fluhr, E. Berardesca, M. Gloor, W. Gehring, Protective Value of Bathoils with Different Solvent Characteristics Against Different Irritation. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. K. Articus, C.A. Brown, K.P. Wilhelm, Scale Sensitive Fractal Analysis Using the Patchwork Method for the Assessment of Skin Roughness. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. M. Willard, D. Tonucci, L. Harnisch, J. Bowman, L. Jorgensen, W. Dressler, Modified Mini- Regression Moisturization Protocol to Evaluate Different Moisturizer Technologies Using Biophysical and Clinical Measurements. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. J.W.Wiechers, T. Barlow, Skin Moisturization and Elasticity Originate From at Least Two Different Mechanisms. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. D. Black, M.T. Borrel, S. Delprat, Y. Gall, Hair Tensile Testing with Automated Parameter Calculation. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. R.R. Warner, Y.L. Boissy, S.A. Lang, Microscopy of Lipid Structure in the Outer Stratum Corneum: The Effects of Age, Skin Grade and Frequent Soap Use. 12 th ISBS, Boston, 06/98. E.H. Braue, J.S. Graham, J.L. Martin, J.E. Zallnick, C.R. Nalls, P. Matterson, L.W. Mitcheltree, Comparison of Skin Thickness Measuremnt Techniques Using the DermaScan C Ultrasound Imaging System. 12the ISBS, Boson, 06/98 J.W. Wiechers, V. Wortel, C. Oakley, T. Barlow, Looking at the Skin: Skin Color. Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 113, August 1998 P.Y. Rizvi, Seasonal Skin Changes as Measured by Biophysical Instruments. Poster 12 th ISBS Boston, 06/98. H\litlist\studies 12/06 65 C.M. Schempp, C. Blümke, J. Schule-Mönting, E. Schöpf, J.C.Simon, Der Einfluß verschiedener Salzlösungen auf die Ultravioloett-B-vermittelte Induktion von Erythem und Pigmentierung. Hautarzt 6/98. Die Kombination von Salzwasserbädern mit anschließender UV-Bestrahlung wird seit langem bei der Behandlung der Psoriasis und der atopischen Dermatitis eingesetzt. Ziel der vorliegenden Studie war es, die photosensibilisierenden Eigenschaften von 2 handelsüblichen Badesalzen, Salz aus dem Toten Meer und Kochsalz zu untersuchen. Testareale der Unterarmbeugeseiten von 10 Probanden wurden für 15 min mit Salzlösungen in onzenbtrationen von 1%,3%,5% und 15% inkubiert und anschließend mit einer erythematogenen UV-B-Dosis bestrahlt. Zum Vergleich diente leitungswasser+UVB und UVB allein. H. Tronnier, Neuere Wirkstoffe in der Kosmetik. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 2-1998 Eine Reihe neu oder wieder entdeckter Wirkstoffe für die Kosmetik wird vorgestellt und kritisch beleuchtet. Manches ist an Wirkungen an der Haut nachgewiesen, anderes bisher nur in Modellen und dann einfach auf die Haut übertragen worden. Für den Wirkungsnachweis bedeutet das aber speziell in der Kosmetik, daß dieser zur Bewertung prophylaktischer Maßnahmen, die ja erst nach Jahrzehnten zum Tragen kommen, natürlich kaum geführt werden kann, und hier ein Rückgriff auf eine Beeinflussung von Mechanismen, die zu einer Alterung, vor allem einer vorzeitigen führen, erfolgen muß. W. Gehring, F. Schwan, Th. Meyer, M. Gloor, Eignung von Emulsionen als Vehikel für verschiedene Ceramide. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 2-1998 In einer O/W-Emulsion wurden ein Phytoceramidgemisch und 2 synthetische Ceramide bei intakter Barrierefunktion und nach Lipidextraktion untersucht. Einmalige Applikation der Ceramide in beiden Vehikeln hat keinen Effekt auf die Barrierefunktion der Epidermis erkennen lassen, der auf den Ceramidgehalt zurückzuführen ist. Zwei Stunden nach Applikation der Formulierungen wurde ein Barrierefunktionstest mit Nikotinsäureester durchgeführt. Nur durch die syntetischen Ceramide in der O/W-Emulsion konnte nach Lipidextraktion eine Reduktion des Nikotinsäure-Erythems festgestellt werden. T. Fischer, C. Greif, W. Wigger-Alberti, P. Elsner, Instrumentelle Methoden zur Bewertung der Sicherheit und Wirksamkeit von Kosmetika. Aktuelle Dermatologie, 8/9-1998 Durch die Erfordernisse eines Wirksamkeits- und Sicherheitsnachweises für Kosmetika gewinnen nichtinvasive biophysikalische Meßmethoden zunehmend an Bedeutung. Neben der Bestimmung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes und der Messung der Hautfeuchtigkeit, des Oberflächenfettes, des pH-Werts, und der Elastizität kommen der Erfassung des Oberflächenreliefs, der Farbe und der Hautdurchblutung große Bedeutung zu. Mit diesen Methoden können u.a. die hautfeuchtigkeitsfördernden, glättenden und straffenden Wirkungen von Topika sowie der Grad der Irritation durch Externa evaluiert werden. Zur Messung und Vergleichbarkeit dieser unterschiedlichen Hautfunktionsparameter sind standardisierte Meßbedingungen erforderlich. Y. Nishimori, H. Tsuruoka, K. Matsumoto, M. Kawai, A. Pearse, C. Edwards, R. Marks, A new Approcah for the Improvement of Photoagend Skin Through Collagen Fiber Bundle Reconstruction Mechanism. 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998. Many anti-wrinkle and anti-photoaging cosmetics contain retinoic acid (RA) or RA-derived chemicals to induce the production of connective tissue components. However, this approach does not always produce longlasting or satisfactory results. Investigations of injured skin reveal that the ultrastructural condition of dermal connective tissue, especially dermal collagen fiber bundles, is an extremely important factor affecting both the mechanical properties and surface profiles. Photoaging is skin injury caused by solar radiation. Our research indicates that restoration of the ultrastructural changes of ther dermal collagen fiber bundles is more important than simple promotion of the production of cnnective tissue components. H\litlist\studies 12/06 66 B. Varangot, S. Marull, R. Voultoury, V. Couturaud, Normal and Dry Skin Evaluation of Corneocyte Size as a Function of Depth in the Epidermis by Tape Stripping and Image Analysis. Poster - 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998. I. Le Fur, S. Lopez, F. Morizot, M. Dubourgeat, Ch. Guinot, E. Tschachler, Comparison of Malar and Frontal Zones by Bioengineering Methods for Different Cosmetic Skin Type Groups of Women. Poster - 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998. F. Merot, S. Rullier, Ph. Masson, Use of the Mexameter MX 16 TM® for the Assessment of the Sun Protection Factors (UVB and UVA). Poster - 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998. G. Leone, S. Siladji, G.F. Secchi, M. Carducci, M. Fazio, A New Challenge For High SPF Sunscreens: The Outdoor Dynamic Test - Product Evaluation - 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998. E. Camel, L. Arnaud-Boissel, C. Farrugio. J.P. Guillot, Modification of Biomechanical Properties of the Skin by Cosmetics: Dream of Reality ? From Experimental Laboratory Data to Consumer Perception. 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998 Y. Yazan, M. Seiller, S. Avcier, M. Demirel, Comparison of Glycolic, Lactic and Glycolic + Lactic Acids in Multiple Emulsion Systems. 20 th IFSCC Congress Cannes, 09/1998 D. Khazaka, Assessing Hydration of the Skin - A Practical Approach to the Measurement with the Corneometer CM825 ® . Euro Cosmetics 10/98 The measurement of the moisture content of the skin surface is one of the most important parameters in cosmetics. This study describes the advantages of the capacitance method of the Corneometer CM 825 ® concerning the influence of products on the skin, occlusion effects and the penetration depth of the scatterfield. J.W. Fluhr, S. Lazzedni, F. Distante, M. Gloor, E. Beradesca, Effects of Prolonged Occlusion on Stratum Corneum Barrier Function and Water Holding Capacity. Stratum Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98. Occlusion is used in clinical practice to enhance transcutaneous penetration and drug delivery to the skin. Occlusion can also be generated by the professional use of protective garments, gloves and cosmetics. D. Black, A. Del Pozo, S. Diridollou, J.M. Lagarde, Y. Gall, Assessment of Emollient Effects on the Stratum Corneum of Wingter Dry Skin Using A Multiple Measurement Approach. Stratum Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98. A randomised single-blind study was carried out on 13 female volunteer subjects aged 21-43, (mean 35 yrs), with the aim of assessing the effects of a glycerine/vaseline based emollient cream on the stratum corneum of winter dry skin. J.W. Wiechers, A. Barlow, Skin Moisturisation and Elasticity Originate From at Least Two Different Mechanisms. Stratum Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98. O. Barel, P. Clarys, B.Gabard, In Vivo Evaluation of the Hydration State of the Horny Layer: The Use of Electrical Measurements for Claim Support. Stratum corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98 J.W. Fluhr, W. Gehring, M. Gloor, S. Lazzerini, P. Kleesz, E. Berardesca, Comparative Study of 5 Instruments Measuring Stratum corneum Hydration in Vitro. Stratum Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98. A.V. Schreiner, Zeden, G. Gercken, U. Hoppe, P.Gerson, Comparison of Barrier Properties of Different Layers of Stratum Corneum of Xerotic Skin of Elderly and Normal Skin. Stratum Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98 H\litlist\studies 12/06 67 P.M. Müller, R. Jermann, The Skin.IFSCC Magazine, Vol.1 No. 1, 1998 The authors inroduce a novel psycho-physical approach to determining subjective skinfeel involving weights on panelists’ volar forearms. Through this method and by determining defferentiation threshold values, the authors demonstrate that sin moisturized with a liposomal formulation performs better than skin dehydrated with sodium dodecyl sulfate and aqueous ethanol. H. Zhai, Preventing Irritant Dermatitis. Cosmetics&Toiletries, October 1998 The author reviews the role of moisturizers in preventing irritant dermatitis with testimonial and controlled experimental data. D.S. Orth, J. Widjaja, L. Ly, N. Cao, Stability and Skin Persistence of Topical Products. Cosmetics&Toiletries, October 1998. Using sevel commercially available cosmetic and OTC-drug products, the authors determined the chemical stability of selected topical ingredients in a hydroalcoholic vehicle with 2% hydroquinone. H. Tronnier, Empfindliche Haut. Kosmetische Medizin 4, 10/98 Eine einheitliche Ursache für eine empfindliche Haut gibt es nicht. Zahlreiche Funktionsabweichungen, die anamnestisch zu erfassen und mit geeigneten Methoden zu bestimmen sind, können individuell das Muster einer empfindlichen haut abgeben oder die Grundlage einer empfindlichen haut darstellen. Wesentlichen Einfluß können psychogene Faktoren haben. EnviroDerm’s Skin Breakthrough. Engine Repair and Remanufacture, 01/98 Until now, prevention of occupational skin disease was very much a hit and miss affair. There was no practical way of detecting unseen damage to the skin from working practice or contact with chemicals. F.Morizot, I. Le Fur, E. Tschachler, Sensitive Skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol.113, November 1998 Studies on skin reactions to irritant substances and topical preparations have a long history. Clinical signes and symptoms of irritant reactions in the dermatological sense are well defined and are synonymous with skin inflammatory reactions. Uta Bornschein, Der Schuß ins Waschwasser.... Die Schwester/Der Pfleger 12/98 Die Ganzkörperwaschung der Patienten durch Pflegende ist im Krankenhaus eine täglich wiederkehrende Verrichtung. In vielen Einrichtungen ist dafür ein Pflegestandard geschaffen worden. Dabei kommt es oft zu einer Diskussion um en Waschwasserwechsel, und dies nicht nur aus hygienischen Gesichtspunkten. H. Knaggs, J. Bajor, W. Becker, The Sebumeter and Its Use. Mediscript 12/98 The Sebumeter is a quick and easy tool to use in measuring skin surface lipids. The type of lipids sampled largely depends on the body site at which the measurement is taken. The Sebumeter has most commonly been used to measure skin lipids on the forehead which consist predominantly of sebaceous gland-derived lipids or sebum. H. Tronnier, Ergebnisse der Hautoberflächenanalyse mit SELS.Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5, 1998 Nach einer Beschreibung des Meßprinzips und der Durchführung der SELS-Methode sowie einem Eingehen auf bereits publizierte Studienergebnisse wird über 3 weitere Untersuchungsreihen berichtet. Dabei konnte gezeigt werden, daß die glätte der Haut SE sm mit einer Verbesserung der zellulären Kohäsion korreliert ist. C. Greif, W. Wigger-Alberti, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, Beurteilung einer Körperlotion für trockene und empflindliche Haut. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5, 1998. H\litlist\studies 12/06 68 In einer offenen kontrollierten Anwendungstudie über 3 Wochen wurde an 30 Probanden eine Body Milk auf Hautverträglichkeit und Wirksamkeit getestet. Dazu wurden folgende hautphysiologische Parameter erfaßt: Hautfeuchtigkeit, transepidermaler Wasserverlust, Hautelastizität, pH-Wert sowie Hauttemperatur. N.Y. Schürer, Beeinflussung der epidermalen Barriere durch Externa. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5,1998. Beim Studium der Beeinflussung der epidermalen Barriere durch Externa ist ein Studium der Hautphysiologie genau so wichtig, wie das der Externa, ihrer kosmetischen Wirkstoffe und ihrer Galenik. Gerade in vivo unterliegen die meßergebnisse vielen, meist nur teilweise greifbaren, intra- und interindividuellen Einflüssen. H. Tronnier, Beitrag zur Hautverträglichkeit von Körperpflegemitteln. Kosmetische Medizin 6/1999 Wenn auch die Zahl der Nebenwirkungen durch kosmetische Präparate und Körperpflegemittel, vor allem der allergischen, sehr gering ist, gibt es doch gerade bei empfindlichen Patienten Hautzustände, für die eine weitere Maximierung der Verträglichkeit für den Dermatologen wünschenswert ist. Ch. Packham, The first in a series of articles aimed at helping to prevent damage to health in the workplace. Engine Repair and Remanufacture, January 1999. Most people working in the engineering industry will at some time be exposed to chemicals, the range of which, is enormous and includes substances, such as the solvents used in paint spraying or to degrease engine components; this includes metal working fluids, epoxy resin compounds, and even the skin cleanser used by the mechanic or fitter to clean hands after work. H. Tronnier, M. Wiebuch, U. Heinrich, R. Stute, Surface Evaluation of Living Skin- SELS.Experimental Dermatology-Vo. 6, No.5, 10/1997 B.Chadoutaud, L.Curtil, C.Veret, F.Alais-Gallou, Evaluation objective en double avuegle de la performance hydratante et de la rémanence de duex émollients corporels E/H et H/E dans le traitement des peaux sèches et très sèches. Les Nouvelles Dermatologiques, Vol. 18 No. 2 – Feb.99 Cette étude en double aveugle randomisée chez 20 volontaires à peau sèche et très sèche, concerne l’analyse controlatérale de l’activité hydratante de deux émulsions H.Tronnier, C.M. Heeks, M. Wiebuch, U. Heinrich, Comparative Measurement of Skin-Hydration, Poster at Clinical Dermatology Update, 03/99. K. De Paepe, P. van Damme, M. Paule Derde, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Body Lotions Enriched with Skin Identical Lipids: A TEWL Study of Aged Skin and SLS-Induced Scaly Skin. Euro Cosmetics 2 Vol. No. 7, 02/99. Recently, it has been shown that both the qualitative lipid composition of the intercellular lamellar sheets of the straum corneum (SC) are important for the maintenance of the barrier function of the skin. In order to investigate whether supplementation of major barrier lipids to skin care products could exert a beneficial effect on a damaged barrier function as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a body lotion, with known composition, was enriched with ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids using a weight ration of 50 / 25 / 25, the appropriate ration found in the SC. U. Berndt, U. Hinnen, D. Iliev, P. Elsner, Eignung hautphysiologischer Meßmethoden als Screening-Verfahren zur Identifizierung ekzemgefährdeter Personen. Allergologie 3, 03/1999 Bauer, R. Bartsch, M. Stadeler, U. Vollina, P. Elsner, Evaluierung von prädiktiven Parametern für die Entwicklung von Handekzemen im Ausbildungsverlauf bei Auszubildenden des Bäcker- und Konditorhandwerks. Allergologie 3, 03/1999 H\litlist\studies 12/06 69 M. Bock, H.J. Schwanitz, Modulation der epidermalen Permeabilitätsbarriere durch die topische Anwendung von CO 2 – imprägniertem Wasserklinische und hautphysiologische Untersuchungen. Allergologie 3, 03/1999 T.Fischer, W. Wigger-Alberti, C. Greif, P. Elsner, Irritative Wirkung von abrasiven Reinigungsmitteln auf die Barrierefunkton der Haut. Allergologie 3, 03/1999 C.Greif, W. Wigger-Alberti, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, Beurteilung einer Körperlotion für trockene und empfindliche Haut. Allergologie 3, 03/1999 V. Rosenberger, A. Klotz, K.P. Wilhelm, Nachweis der Wirksamkeit einer traubenkernöl- und harnstoffhaltigen Creme anhand biophysikalischer Untersuchungen. Allergologie 3, 03/1999 L. Halkier-Sorensen, Hautschutz bei Reinigungspersonal, TWDermatologie Heft 6, November/Dezember 1994 Berufstätige, die an ihrem Arbeitsplatz hautreizenden Substanzen ausgesetzt sind, sollten zum Hautschutz Feuchtigkeitspräparate verwenden. Zur Überprüfung der Wirksamkeit eines solchen Präparates wurde eine Feldstudie mit 111 Arbeitskräften aus dem Reinigungs- und Küchenbereich durchgeführt. Die Ergebnisse zeigen, daß die Probanden generell von der Verwendung des Feuchtigkeitspräparates profitieren. Vor allem aber für jene Personen, die bereits mit Hautirritationen vorbelastet sind, erscheint die Anwendung eines Feuchtigkeitspräparates unverzichtbar. Hong-Geun Ji, Bong-seok Seo, Retinyl Palmitate at 5% in a Cream: Its Stability, Efficacy and Effect. C&T, 03/99. This paper evaluates the stability, efficacy and effect of retinyl palmitate at 5% in four different cream formulations: w/o water-in-silicone, o/w and multilamellar vesicles. J.S.C. English, J. Ratcliffe, H.C. Williams, Irritancy of industrial hand cleansers tested by repeated open application on human skin. Contact Dermatitis, Vol. 40, No. 2 The aim of this study was to compare the irritancy potential of 2 industrial hand cleansers with a brand leader of “mild” children’s hand cleanser and with an emollient.The products were tested using repeated open application tests (ROATs) on the forearms of 40 subejcts. Scoring of signs and symptoms (itching or burning), transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration (Corneometer) evaluated responses. E. Barany, M. Lindberg, M. Loden, Biophysical characterization of skin damage and recovery after exposure to different surfactants. Contact Dermatitis, Vol. 40, No. 2 The majority of adverse skin reaction to personal-care products are presumed to be caused by irritant substances, like surfactants. In this study, different aspects of the irritant reaction after a single exposure to 8 surfactants were characterized during 2 weeks. M. Paye, G. Gomes, C.R. Zerweck. G.E. Pierard, G.L. Grove, A hand immersion test under laboratory-controlled usage conditions: the need for sensitive and controlled assessment methods. Contact Dermatitis, Vol. 40, No. 3 Exaggerated test conditions were frequently used to investigate the cutaneous tolerance of detergent products in the past. As the sensitivity of newly designed biometric methods is steadily improving, the trend towards more realistic test conditions should be encouraged. E. Schnetz, O. Kuss, J. Schmitt, T.L.Diepgen, M. Kuhn, M. Fartasch, Intra- and inter-individual variations in transepidermal water loss on the face: facial locations for bioengineering studies. Contact Dermatitis Vol. 40, No. 3 The volar forearm is the favored location for bioengineering studies. However, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is an important indicator of the function of the epidermal barrier, shows regional variations, and for the evaluation of cosmetic formulations, facial skin would be more suitable. In this H\litlist\studies 12/06 70 study, we have compared 10 facial locations with 1 test site on the volar forearm for absolute TEWL values, reproducibility, and correlation. Measurements were performed over 3 consecutive days. H+G Band 74, Heft 6, 1999. Hautmeßgeräte unentbehrlich für Klinik + Praxis Eine Notwendigkeit für die dermatologische Praxis ? Die apparative Bestimmung von Hautparametern C.Packham, Bio-engineering and the skin. AOHNP(UK) 1999 In this article a modern approach to the age-old problem of irritant contact dermatitis is examined. L.Rodrigues, P.Pinto, N.Galego, P.A. Da Silva, L.M. Pereira, Transepidermal water loss kinetic modeling approach for the parameterization of skin water dynamics. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 The evaluation of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is one of the methods most frequently used in studies involving skin water dynamics. However, TEWL does not provide a direct measurement of epidermal barrier function, being rather a surrogate effect of it. In particular, when external stimuli change cutaneous water balance, these stimuli must be taken into account in order to achieve a rigorous interpretation of the results. L. Rodrigues, Y.R.Salgueiros, N.Galego, P.Pinto, N.Silva, I.Z.Ferro, Study on the In Vivo Performance of Two Capacitance Systems: Assessment of the Experimental Reproducibility and sensitvity. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 The epidermal water content is one of the most fundamental indicators for cutaneous functional evaluation. The major role of water in the skin physiological and pathophysiological processes is actually well known and recognised and for it, the reinforcement or re-establishment of these properties, through a wide variety of topical formulations, including cosmetics, is a frequent objective of therapeutical intervention. P.Clarys, K.Alewaeters, A.O.Barel, Comparative Study of Skin Color Using Different Bioengineering Methods. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 A.O.Barel, K.Alewaeters, P.Clarys, Optical Imaging Using UV Light for the Determination of Photoageing. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 U. Maerker, P.Behm,Dr.Schreiner, NIR-Spektroskopie und Haut – Poster Bad Neuenahr 1999 W.D.Becker, S.Hillmer,M.A.Presser, A Clinical Model for Surface Sebum Measurement – Poster Arbois 1999 E.Schnetz, O.Kuss, J.Schmitt, T.L.Diepgen, M.Kuhn, M.Fartasch, Intra- and inter-individual variations in transepidermal water loss on the face: facial locations for bioengineering studies. Contact Dermatitis 40, 1999. The volar forearm is the favored location for bioengineering studies. However, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is an important indicator of the function of the epidermal barrier, shows regional variations, and for the evaluation of cosmetic formulations, facial skin would be more suitable. In this study, we have compared 10 facial locations with 1 test site on the volar forearm for absolute TEWL values, reproducibility, and correlation. M.Förschle, I. Frei, Elastisch und geschmeidig. Kosmetik International 6/99 E. Thumm, E..G. Jung, Ch. Bayerl, Überprüfung der Auswirkung von Kosmetika auf Hautrauhigkeit, Feuchtigkeitsgehalt und Barrierefunktion der Haut. Kosmetische Medizin 3 Juni 1999 H\litlist\studies 12/06 71 In einer seitenkontrollierten Studie wurde drei Kosmetikpräparate auf liposomaler Basis hinsichtlich ihrer Auswirkung auf a)Hautrauhigkeit (Skin Visiometer SV 500), b) den Feuchtigkeitsgehalt des Stratum corneum (Corneometer CM825) und c) die Hautbarrierefunktion bzw. den transepidermalen Wasserverlust/TEWL (Tewameter TM 210) untersucht. H.Tronnier, U.Heinrich, Diagnostik und Behandlungskontrolle seborrhoischer Kopfschuppung mit bildanalytischem Verfahren. Kosmetische Medizin,2 Mai 1999-07-15 Nach kurzem Eingehen auf die Klinik der (seborrhoischen) Kopfschuppung und ihre Pathogenese sowie die Therapie wird auf die konischen Nachweisverfahren auf der Kopfhaut hingewiesen. Eine neue bildanalytische Methode, basierend auf älteren Untersuchungen, wird beschrieben. Gemessen wird dabei die Schuppenzahl (SZ), die durch Schuppen bedeckte Meßfläche (SF), aus denen sich eine relative Schuppengröße errechnen läßt (SG). Außerdem werden prozentual die Schuppengrößen in 9 Klassen ausgewiesen. S.Tamburic, G.Abama, Moisturizing Potential of d-a-Tocopherol. Cosmetics&Toiletries, 05/1999 Moisturizing products are designed with the intention of improving skin condition and appearance by increasing skin hydration. The classic approach to this problem involves the use of occlusive ingredients (to decrease the level of transepidermal water loss) and humectants (to imporve the water- binding ability of the stratum corneum. W.Pittermann, Tierversuchsfrei forschen mit dem Rindereuter-Modell. Parfümerie und Kosmetik, Nr. 3/99. Haut und Schleimhaut sind nicht nur wegen der anatomischen und funktionellen Unterschiede Zielorgane besonderer Art. In der regulären Sicherheitsprüfung für den Arbeits- und Verbraucherschutz werden sie als mögliche Angriffspunkte für lokal oder systemisch schädigende Rohstoffe oder Chemikalien behandelt. Im Mittelpunkt der kosmetischen Forschung steht jedoch die Pflege von Haut und Schleimhaut sowie die Wirksamkeit von Inhaltsstoffen und Formulierungen. H.Tronnier, Empfindliche Haut. Seminar Hausarzt Praxis März/April 1999 Die Empfindlichkeit der Haut hat keineswegs nur somatische Aspekte und Ursachen, sondern auch psychogene. Sie wird damit partiell vergleichbar mit anderen menschlichen Empfindungen, deren Existenz niemand bestreitet, deren Definition aber alles andere als einfach ist. Kann man einer Haut ihre Empfindlichkeit ansehen? W.Voss,G.Schlippe,M.Breuer, Tests on Cosmetics Scientific Standards. SÖFW-Journal 4/99 In general, body care articles and cosmetics have only a low allergy potential. The probability that toxic-irritative reactions will arise after proper use is even lower.But especially with patients with sensitive skin, unclear skin reactions, which can frequently be confused with allergies, can arise. The cosmetics manufacturers, however, would like to produce safer products and naturally want to avoid that type of problem from the start. E.Schnetz, O.Kuss, J.Schmitt, T.L.Diepgen, M.Kuhn, M.Fartasch, Intra- and inter-individual variations in transepidermal water loss on the face: facial locations for bioengineering studies. Contact Dermatitis 40, 1999. The volar forearm is the favored location for bioengineering studies. However, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is an important indicator of the function of the epidermal barrier, shows regional variations, and for the evaluation of cosmetic formulations, facial skin would be more suitable. In this study, we have compared 10 facial locations with 1 test site on the volar forearm for absolute TEWL values, reproducibility, and correlation. N. Yokoi, F. Mossa, J. M. Tiffany, A. J. Bron, Assessment of Meibomian Gland Function in Dry Eye Using Meibometry, Arch Ophtalmol, Vol. 117, June 1999, www.archophtalmol.com. Meibomian gland disease is a common condition that is often symptomatic. Meibomian gland dysfunction (MGD) is a term adopted by Jester et al. chiefly to describe obstructive meibomian gland H\litlist\studies 12/06 72 disease. The primary disease is common, but there is a strong association between MGD and certain forms of skin disease such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis. J.W.Wiechers, V.A. Wortel, Creating Effective Claim Support Packages. C&T July 1999 It is interesting to study the history of ceramides as an example of what can happen to ingredient claims. Unilever scientists identified ceramide 1 as a functional skin lipid in 1982 and many scientific papers have since been written to describe the beneficial skin effects of ceramides. The name of this ingredient was popularized by Elizabeth Arden, a company belonging to the Uniliver group, when they launched Ceramide Time capsules in 1990. M. Maruno, FC Facco, PA Rocha Filho, Hydration, Oily and PH of Skin In Vivo Evaluation After Application of Both Simple and Complex Emulsions Containing Hydrolyzed Proteins. IFSCC May 1999 RG Azzini, L Licursi, PA Rocha-Filho, Colour Evaluation „In Vitro“ Method of Facial Powders. IFSCC May 1999 SH Perez Damonte, GM Cuomo, RL Galimberti, Evaluacion Instrumental de la Piel Sensible. IFSCC May 1999 N Arnejo, SRL Fabriquimica, Evaluacion del Poder de Retencion de Agua de Los Agentes Humectantes. IFSCC May 1999 A. Castro, A. Vargas, Alternativas Naturales en el Tratamiento del Fotoenvejecimiento. IFSCC May 1999 A.M. Vargas, A. Castro, Proteina de Soja: Evaluacion de su Efecto Hidratante. IFSCC May 1999 A.De Castro, A.M.Vargas, Evaluacion del efecto hidratante de la proteina de soja. Actualizaciones Terapeuticas Dermatologicas y Esteticas, Vol. 22 No. 5, Sept/Oct 1999 A.De Castro, A.M.Vargas, Evaluacion del tratamientodel prurito con el residuo lipidico de la cebada. Actualizaciones Terapeuticas Dermatologicas y Esteticas, Vol. 22 No. 5, Sept/Oct 1999 C. Rojas, A. Castro, L. Castro, R. Brito, Utilizacion del Residuo Lipidico de la Cebada en el Tratamiento del Prurito. IFSCC May 1999 W.Schlüter-Wigger, P.Elsner, Klinische Prüfung der Wirksamkeit von vier kommerziellen Hautschutzpräparaten im repetitiven Irritationstest (RIT). 2. Poster Preis ICPCD Zürich, 10/1995 A. Vexler, I. Polyansky, R. Gorodetsky, Multi-Parametric Examination of Irradiated Skin in Breast Cancer Patients. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 B. Gabard, Dry Skin and the Cosmetic Benefit of moisturization. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 Y. Kawasaki, D. Quan, K. Sakamotor,R. Cooke, H.I. Maibach, Influence of Surfactant Mixutres on Intercellurlar Lipid Fluidity and Skin Barrier Function. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999 Surfactant mixtures are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulas in order to establish product efficacy while maintaining mildness and skin lipids. The electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) technique of the spin labeling method with a nitroxide spin probe is a valuable method in the study of biological membranes. The objective of this study was to define the influence of surfactant mixtures on intercellular lipid. H\litlist\studies 12/06 73 M. Puschmann, A. Melzer, H.P. Nissen., Hautglättende, hautelastische und hautschützende Wirkung einer Urea-Ceramid-Kombination. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 4, 1999-11-22 Sebostase ist ein häufiges dermatologisches Krankheitsbild. Sie wird durchexogene Faktoren, (Klima, Waschgewohnheiten) und/oder konstitutionelle Faktoren wie Alter und atopische Hautdiathese hervorgerufen. Eine auffällige Häufung derartiger Sympotome findet sich in der kalten Jahreszeit. Hier ist das Klima (Temperatur, Luftfeuchtigkeit) sowohl im Freien als auch in den gebäuden als wichtiger Kofaktor anzusehen. Zur Therapie trockener Haut werden traditionell Salben/Fettsalben, Ölbäder sowie harnsoffhaltige Zubereitungen eingesetzt. A.Fendl, Einzelheiten der Hautdiagnose. Natürlich schön / Grundlagten der Ganzheitskosmetik Handwerk und Technik – 1999 Gut gepflegt, Test – Stiftung Warentest Nr. 11, 1999 Eingecremt von Kopf bis Fuss – dat tut gut. Muss es aber die teure Bodylotion aus der Parfümerie sein? Muss es nicht, zeigte der Test. H. Tronnier, Wirksamkeit von Kosmetika – Anspruch,Wirklichkeit und Perspektiven, 13. Symposium der DGK Bad Neuenahr, 1999 St. Bielfeldt, H.Köhler, J.Gaßmüller, Minimalinvasive Verfahren in der Werksamkeits- und Verträglichkeitsprüfung von Kosmetika. 13. Symposium der DGK Bad Neuenahr, 1999 Corinne Stoltz, How Can the Special Needs of Mature Skin be Catered For ? Cosmetics & Toiletries 03/2000 H.E.Packham, c.L. Packham, Skin Bioengineering as a Contribution to Product Performance and Safety. Cosmetics & Toiletries 03/2000 W. Pittermann, Th. Gassenmeier, S. Nieveler, Th. Förster, M. Kietzmann, Experimentally Induced Epidermal Barrier Perturbation: Measurement of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Using the Perfused Bovine Udder Skin (BUS) Model. IFSCC Vol. 3, No. 1, January/March 2000-04-12 This paper describes the measurement of the TEWL under in vitro conditions using the isolated perfused Bovine Udder Skin (BUS) model. S. Lopez, I. Le Fur, F.Morizot, G. Heuvin, Ch. Guinot, E. Tschachler, Transepidermal Water Loss, Temperature and Sebum Levels on Women’s Facial Skin Follow Characteristic Patters. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6 No. 1, February 2000. The aim of this study was to compare the biophysical properties of different facial zones. A.E.Sagiv, A.Ingber, S. Dikstein, A Novel In Vivo Model in Guinea Pigs for Dry Skin Syndrome. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6 No. 1, February 2000. J.W.Wiechers, Relative Performance Testing: Introducing a tool to Facilitate Cosmetic Ingredient Selection. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 112 (9) 79-84, 1997. J.W.Wiechers, Multifunktionelle Mischungen: Eine neue Workstoffgeneration ? Parfümerie & Kosmetik, 79 (11) 36-38, 1998. J.W. Wiechers, Verbraucher messen etwas anders. Vergleich objektiver und subjektiver Hautfeuchtigkeitsbestimmung. Parfümerie und Kosmetik, 80 (4) 50-56, 1999. H\litlist\studies 12/06 74 J.W. Wiechers, M. Lüder, F.J. Groenhof, A. Barlow, Building Skin Functionality Into Formulations. IFSCC 2, 34-40, October-December 1999. J.W.Wiechers, A. Barlow, Just below the Skin Surface: Skin Hydration. Cosmetics & Toiletries 114 (12) 47-53, 1999 J.W. Wiechers, Efficacy Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients. In: Hincal, A.A., and de Jong (Eds.) Recent Advances in Pharmaceutical, Cosmetic and Food Excipients. Minutes 9 th Int. Pharmaceutical Technology Symposium, Editions de Santé, Paris, 126-138 Book Chapter, 1999 J.W. Wiechers, Combining Clinical and Sensory Assessment of Skin Moisturisation. XXth Conference of the Int.Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, Cannes (Poster) 09/1999. J.W. Fluhr, M.Gloor, S.Lazzerini, P.Kleesz, R.Grieshaber, E.Berardesca, Comparative study of five instruments measruing stratum corneum hydration (Corneometer CM 820 and CM 825, Skicon 200, Nova DPM 9003,DermaLab). Part II. In vivo. Skin Research and Technology, Vo. 5, No. 3, August 1999 G.Gacic-Vukavljak, Sebum Control Performance with Powdered Silicone Elastomers. Personal Care Ingredient Asia Conference, Bangkok, March 2000. J.W.Wiechers, C.Oakley, V.Wortel, T.Barlow, Comparison of Skin Colour Measuring Methodologies on Asian Skin. Personal Care Ingredient Asia Conference, Bangkok, March 2000. K.P.Wittern, F. Stäb, R. Wolber, T. Blatt, R. Keyhani, V. Schreiner, U. Schönrock, Wirkstoffe und ihre Wirkprinizpien. 13. Symposium der DGK, Bad Neuenahr, 1999 A.M. Koehler, H.I. Maibach, Skin Hyporeactivity in Relation to Patch Testing. Contact Dermatitis, Vol.42, No. 1, January 2000 False-negative patch tests are clinically relevant. Skin hyporeactivity has been suggested as one possible cause. Evidence supports that failure to respond to a specific antigen might be due either to a faulty immune response, a defective inflammatory response or both. Thus, skin hyporeactivity may have clinical relevance in routine patch testing. J.Brasch, M.Hüttemann, E. Proksch, Iontophoresis of Nickel Elicits a Delayed Cutaneous Response in Sensitized Individuals that is Similar to an Allergic Patch Test Reaction. Contact Dermatitis, Vol.42, No.1, January 2000. M.Fischer, I.-M.Schneider, R.Neubert, W. Wohlrab, Über den Eionfluss methylverzweigter Fettsäuren auf die Barrierefunktion des Stratum Corneum. Dermatosen / Occup.Environ. 47, 225- 229, 1999 F.Rippke, V.Schreiner, H.J. Schwanitz, Das saure Hornschichtmilieu. Dermatosen / Occup.Environ. 47, 225-229, 1999 M.O.Visscher, S.Maganti, K.A. Munson, D.E. Bare, S.B.Hoath, Early Adaptation of Human Skin Following Birth: a Biophysical Assessment. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5, No. 4, November 1999 I.Le Fur, S. Lopez, F. Morizot, Ch. Guinot, E. Tschachler, Comparison of Cheek and Forehead Regions by Bioengineering Methods in Women with Different Self-Reported “Cosmetic Skin Types”. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5, No. 3, August 1999 T.Barlow, J.W.Wiechers, MeasuringSkin Hydration.C&T, December 1999 H\litlist\studies 12/06 75 G.Kutz, D.Peltner, Aktuelle Formulierungskonzepte moderner Hautkosmetika am Beispiel der trockenen Haut. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5, 1999 L.Rodrigues and the EEMCO Group, EEMCO Guidance to the In Vivo Assessment of Tensile Functional Properties of the Skin. Part 2: Instrumentation and Test Modes, 1999. J.E. Arrese, P. Pierard- Franchimont, G. E. Piérard, V. Goffin, Biometrology applied to cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings. A review of the Liège experience, Dermatologia Clinica n. 3/ 1999, pp. 93-97. The cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS) is a time-honoured method to harvest in a single procedure a sheet of the superficial stratum corneum and follicular casts as well. Such sampling is currently used to assess non-invasively various physiological and pathological aspects of the skin . L.M.Harnisch, M.K.Raheja, L.K.Lockhart, A.Pagnoni, Substantiating Antiaging Product Claims. C&T Vol.114,No.10, October 1999. Ch. Houghton, New Natural Oils. Cosmetic Science&Business 2000 A.A. Fendl, Einzelheiten der Hautdiagnose. Natürlich Schön, 1999 S.Tamburic, Changing the Skin Surface. Parfümerie + Kosmetik 11/12, 1999 M.Puschmann, A.Melzer,H.P.Nissen, Hautgättende, hautelastische und hautschützende Wirkung einer Urea-Ceramid-Kombination. Kosmetische Medizin Nr.4, 1999 V.Rogiers, EEMCO Guidance for the Assessment of the Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). EEMCO Group 1999. L.Rodrigues, P.Pinto, L.M.Pereira, The Quantitative Assessment of the In Vivo “Barrier Function”. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000. L.F.Gouveia, J.Tavares, L.Rodrigues, Mathematical Modelation of Cutometer Acquired Signals. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. J.W.Fluhr, O.Kuss, T.Diepgen, S.Lazzerini, A.Pelosi, E.Beradesca, Testing for Irritation with a Multiparametric Approach: Comparison of Eight Parameters and Five Different Irritation Models. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000. J.Lübbe, D.Perrenoud, Skin Irritancy of Alcoholic Skin Disinfectants. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 H.Fadhli, C.Edwards, S.Gaskell, R.Marks, Differences between normal skin and Unaffected Psoriatic Skin are Demonstrated by Cutometer and Uniaxial Extensometry, and Confirmed by Measurement of Elastic Fibre Content. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. D.Black, A.Del Pozo, S.Diridollou, JM, Lagarde, Y.Gall, Stratum Corneum Barrier Function Assessment Using the Sorption-Desorption Test and Laser Doppler Flowmetry. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 F.Henry, O.Martalo, G.E.Pierard, Liminar Perception Threshold of Cutaneous Distension. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. H\litlist\studies 12/06 76 EA Sagiv, S.Dikstein, The Efficiency of Humectants as Skin Moisturizers in Presence of Oil. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 JW Fluhr, A.Pelosi, L.Lazzerini, F.Distante, S.Dikstein, E.Berardesca, Corneocyte Surface Area is Influenced by Hormonal Status in Humans: Assessment with the Noninvasive VIC-Method (Videomicroscopic Imaging of Corneocytes). 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. F.Li, E.Conroy, M.Visscher, R.Wickett, Influence of Formulations Containing Salt and Glycerin on the Electrical Properties of Skin: Correlation Between Single Treatments and Long-Term Results. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. A.M.Matta, P.Muret, Ph.Humbert, In Vivo Calibration of the Corneometer CM820 and the Evaporimeter EP1 Servomed for the Assessment of the Water Content of the Upper Part of the Epidermis Using a Water Sorption Desorption Test. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. I.Le Fur, C.Guinot, S.Lopez, F.Morizot, V.Lambert, E.Tschachler, Age-Related Reference Ranges for Skin Biophysical Parameters in Healthy Caucasian Women. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 A.O. Barel, K.Alewaeters, P.Clarys, Non-Invasive Bioengineering Study of the Effects on the Human Skin of a Direct Electric Current. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. G.Pellacani, S.Seidenari, Functional Non-Invasive Tests for the Assessment of the Stratum Corneum Hydration Kinetics in Children Affected by Atopic Dermatitis. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000. K.De Paepe, JM Lagarde, Y.Gall, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Study of the Human Skin Microrelief by a Standardised Light Transmission Method. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 A.Leal, J.Alves, L.Rodrigues, Usefulness of Transcutaneous Indictors as Predictors of Peripheral Dysfunction. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000. JP Hachem, K.De Paepe, E.Vanpée, L.Kaufman, V.Rogiers, D.Roseeuw, Combination Therapy Improves the Recovery of the Human Skin Barrier Function: An Experimental Model Using Contact Allergy Patch Test Combined with TEWL Measurements. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 K.Janssens, K.De Paepe, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Lack of Correlation between Stratum Corneum Hydration and Scaling Pattern: Evaluated by Corneometry and Squamometry. 13 th ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000. A. Markowetz, Die Pflege reifer Haut. Dermatologie & Ästhetik 3/2000-10-13 Reife Haut benötigt eine andere Pflege als junge Haut. Es bestehen einige Unterschiede, denen bei der Pflege Rechnung getragen werden muss. Reife Haut ist in der Regel besonders trocken und benötigt daher eine gute Feuchtigkeitszufuhr und eine Verbesserung des Hautgefühls. H.E.Packham, Skin Bioengineering as a Contribution to Product Performance and Safety, C&T, 2000 V.Lambert, I. Le Fur, Ch. Guinot, F. Morizot, S. Lopez, E.Tschachler, Comparaison des Parametres Biophysiques Cutanes en Hiver et en ete chez des Femmes Caucasiennes. IIième Congrès de la Société D’Ingénierie Cutanée, Juin 2000 H\litlist\studies 12/06 77 D.Black, A.Del Pozo, J.M. Lagarde, Y. Gall, Seasonal variability in the biophysical properties of stratum corneum from different anatomical sites. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 2, May 2000 H.Zhai, F.Brachman, A.Pelosi, A.Anigbogu, M.B.Ramos, M.C. Torralba, H.I. Maibach, A bioengineering study on the efficacy of a skin protectant lotion in preventing SLS-induced dermatitis, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 2, May 2000 Rode, U. Ivens, J. Serup, Degreasing method for the seborrheic areas with respect to regaining sebum excretion rate to casual level, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 2, May 2000 J.Min Choi, J. Young Lee, B. Kee Cho, Chronic Irritant Contact Dermatitis: Recovery Time in Man. Contact Dermatitis 42, 2000 Chronic irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is a common skin disease, especially in the workplace, but determining the recovery time of chronic ICD is not easy. To measure the recovery time of chronic ICD, we examined the skin reactivity to a model surfactant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), on previous chronic ICD and normal sites by visual grade and non-invasive instruments. W.Baschong, C.Artmann, J.Röding, Comparison of Skin Moisturization Attained by Supplementing the NMF in the Skin or by Applying Water Binding Molecules on the Skin Surface. SÖFW April 2000 Skin moisture can principally be improved either by hydrophilic substances binding water on the skin surface (humectants), or by enriching the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the skin. O.Doucet, L.Ferrero, D.Fouchard, V.Decherf, L.Zastrow, Description of a new Type of O/W Emulsion Allowing the Formation of Liquid Crystals After Application Onto the Skin. Interest for Creating Intensive and Long Lasting Moisturizer. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin Most of the topically-applied products leave onto the skin surface a cream-residue which is of particular importance in the regulation of the bio-disponibility of the active ingredients. Once the spreading phase onto the skin is over, the evaporation of some volatile compounds, such as water, promptly modifies their intial structure. A.Teglia, A.Mondelli, Short Term Effects of Hydrophilic Ingredients on the Hydration Parameters of the Stratum Corneum. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin Though the real benefit of raising the skin’s water content is not fully explained, it is evident to everyone that without an adequeate amount of water, skin displays undesirable perceivable changes (brittleness, flakiness, roughness) and its protective function tends to be impaired. A.Teglia, A.Mondelli, Short Term Effects of Hydrophilic Ingredients on the Hydration Parameters of the Stratum Corneum. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin Though the real benefit of raising the skin’s water content is not fully explained, it is evident to everyone that without an adequeate amount of water, skin displays undesirable perceivable changes (brittleness, flakiness, roughness) and its protective function tends to be impaired. O.Tanno, Y.Ota, R. Hikima, M.Matsumotor, M.Ota, S.Inoue, An Increase in Endogenous Epidermal Lipids Improves Skin Barrier Function. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin Stratum corneum lipids, especially ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, play a critical role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. Young-Dae Kim. Bong Rae Cho, Polyoxypropylene-Polyoxyethylene Tocopheryl Ethers: A Series of Novel Amphiphiles from Tocopherol for Functional Cosmetics. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin. H\litlist\studies 12/06 78 E.Camel, L.Arnaud-Boissel, S.Schnebert, M.Neveu, S.K.Tan, J.P.Guillot, Does Asian Skin Induce Significant Changes in Sun Protection Factor (S.P.F.) Determination, Compared to Caucasian Skin: One of the First In Vivo Correlation. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin D.T.Floyd, H.I.Leidreiter, Performance-Driven: New Silicone CoPolymers.Global Cosmetic Industry September 2000 Experimenting with Dimethicone Copolyols for personal-care products. St.Herman, Skin Deep. Global Cosmetic Industry September 2000 With a growing ethnic population in the U.S., large and small marketers need to turn their attention to skin-care products. S.Diridollou, A.Pavy-Le Traon, A.Maillet, F.Bellossi, D.Black, F.Patat, J.M.Lagarde, M.Beron, Y.Gall, Characterisation of Gravity-Induced Facial Skin Oedema Using Biophysical Measurement Techniques. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 In humans, the microgravity environment can be expected to induce swelling of facial tissues and shrinking of the tissues in the lower limbs, together with a loss in body weight. To evaluate fluid shifts in skin, the head-down bed-rest model was used. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the appearance of facial oedema in subjects undergoing antiorthostatic bed-rest at an angle of –10°. S.Sakai, S.Sasai, Y.Endo, K.Matue, H.Tagami, S.Inoue, Characterization of the Physical Properties of the Stratum Corneum by a New Tactile Sensor. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000. The physical properties of the stratum corneum (SC) change with its water content which is regulated by the presence of water solutes (natural moisturizing factors) and lipids in the SC, and are considered to be responsible for the induction of desquamation, skin surface roughness and fine wrinkles. F.Li, E.Conroy, M.Visscher, R.Wickett Influence of Formulations Containing Salt and Glycerin on the Electrical Properties of Skin:Correlation Between Single Treatments and Long-Term Results. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 A.M.Matta, P.Muret, Ph.Humbert, S.Makki, P.Agache, In Vivo Calibration of the Corneometer CM 820 and the Evaporimeter EP1 Servomed for the Assessment of the Water Content of the Upper Part of the Epidermis Using a Water Sorption-Desorption Test. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000. A.Zlotogorski, S.Dikstein, Skin Surface Sebum on the Forehead and Cheek of Adults. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 L.F.Gouveia, J.Tavares, L.Rodrigues, Mathematical Modulation of Cutometer acquired signals. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000 S.M.John, W.Uter, H.J.Schwanitz, Relevance of Multiparametric Skin Bioengineering in a Prospectively-followed Cohort of Junior Hairdressers. Contact Dermatitis, Vol.43, No. 3, September 2000. There is conflicting evidence concerning predictors of individual susceptibility to develop irritant contact dermatitis in wet work. A cohort of initially 92 hairdresser apprentices was prospectively followed for 3 years. M. Takahashi, Recent Progress in Skin Bioengineering and its Application to Evaluationof Cosmetics. SÖFW Journal, September 2000. With the advances in skin bioengineering technology, great progress has been made in the techniques used for testing the efficacy of cosmetics to the skin ranging from the physical properties to the biochemical characteristics of the skin. H\litlist\studies 12/06 79 A.Morita, K.Kobayashi, I.Isomura, T.Tsuji, J.Krutmann, Ultraviolet A1 (340-400nm) Phototherapy for Scleroderma in Systemic Sclerosis. AAD 2000 The presence of an inflammatory infiltrate consisting of helper T cells and a dysregulated matrix metabolism leading to excessive deposition of collagen are two pathogenetic factors responsible for the developments of fibrosis and sclerosis in patients with systemic sclerosis. In previous studies, ultraviolet A1 (UVA1) radiation phototherapy was shown to deplete skin-infilltrating T cells through the induction of T-cell apoptosis and to up-regulate the expression of matrixmetalloproteinase-1 (collagenase-1) in dermal fibroblasts. N. Vidakovic, M. Primorac, M. Stupar, G. Vuleta, In Vivo Study: Influence of Polyacrylic Anticellulite Gels on Hydration and pH-Value of the Skin. SÖFW-Journal 11-2000 The effect on hydration and pH-value of the skin has been investigated on 22 female subjects during the thirty-day treatment. The following formulations have been tested: polyacrylic gel with 2% of caffeine, ployacrylic gel with propylene-glycol plant extract of Ivy – 2%, Horse Chestnut – 2%, Seaweed – 1,5%, as well as ployacrylic gel with caffeine and above-mentioned plant extracts. P.Clarys,K.Alewaeters, R.Lambrecht, A.O.Barel, Skin Color Measurements: comparison Between Three Instruments: The Chomameter, the DermaSpectrometer, and the Mexameter. Skin Research and Technology 2000. Two types of skin reflectance instruments are available nowadays for the determination of skin color: a tristumulus colorimeter (Chromameter from Minolta) using the CIE L*a*b* color system and the narrow-band simple refelctance meters (DermaSpectrometer from Cortex and Mexameter from Courage-Khazaka) using the erythema/melanin indices. The purpose of this study was to compare the capabilities of the three instruments (sensitivity, repeatability and correlation) in vitro and in vivo. Joyce Ryan, Potencial Umectante do d-α-Tocoferol. Cosmetics&Toiletries (Edicao em Portugues), Vo.12, set/out 2000. M.F.Silva, L.B.Silva, P.J.Rolim Neto, D.P.Santana, Óleo de Babaçu: Novo Adjuvante Lipofilcio. Cosmetics&Toiletries (Edicao em Portugues), Vo.12, set/out 2000. K.De Paepe, J.M.Lagarde, Y.Gall, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Microrelief of the Skin Using a Light Transmission Method.Arch.Dermatol.Res (2000) The recently developed Skin Visiometer, based on light transmission through blue-coloured silicone replicas, was used to study skin microrelief. Calibrated metal plates displaying lines with depths between 6 and 361 µm, were used to determine the accuracy, sensitivity and reproducibility of the technique as well as the parameters of importance during measurement. D.Schmid, A.Lang, T.Allgäuer,Ch.Bayerl, E.G.Jung, Beurteilung der Veränderung der Hautbeschaffenheit durch die Heilpflanzensäfte Brennnessel und Löwenzahn. Akt.Dermatol. 2000. Wir führten eine Anwendungsbeobachtung über die Beeinflussung von objektiven und subjektiven Parametern der Hautbeschaffenheit durch die Kombination der Heilpflanzensäfte Brennnessel und Löwenzahn bei gesunden Probandinnen durch. Zehn Probandinnen (Versuchsgruppe) nahmen über 6 Wochen die Kombination der Heilpflanzensäfte oral ein, gleichzeitig erhielten sie eine standardisierte Körperpflege mit Basiscreme DAC, weitere 10 Probandinnen (Kontrollgruppe) benutzten lediglich die standardisierte Körperpflege mit Basiscreme DAC. M.Winnefeld, M.A.Richard, M.Drancourt, J.J.Grob, Skin tolerance and Effectiveness of Two Hand Decontamination Procedures in Everyday Hospital Use. British Journal of Dermatology 2000. Hand decontamination is crucial to control nosocomial infections. The utility of hand decontamination is related not only to its antimicrobial effectiveness, but also to ist acceptability by hospital staff. A.Sirvent, D.Doyen, P.Girard, The safety and efficacy of cosmetic products. Personal Care, Jan.01 H\litlist\studies 12/06 80 W. Gehring, M. Gloor, Der Effekt von Dexpanthenol bei experimentell geschädigter Haut. H+G (76) 1-7, 2001 Im Rahmen einer randomisierten vehikelkontrollierten, doppelbilinden Studie wurde Dexpanthenol in zwei unterschiedlichen lipophilen Vehikeln im repetitive Waschtest untersucht. C.Pierard-Franchimont, O.Martalo, A.Richard, A.Rougier, GE Pierard, Sebum rheology evaluated by two methods in vivo. Split-face study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation. Eur J Dermatol, Sept. 1999 M.Winnefeld, M.A.Richard, M.Drancourt, J.J. Grob, Skin tolerance and effectiveness of two hand decontamination procedures in everyday hospital use. British Journal of Dermatology 143, 2000. Hand decontamination is crucial to control nosocomial infections. The utility of hand decontamination is related not only to its antimicrobial effectiveness, but also to its acceptability by hospital staff. H.Dobrev, In vivo Study of Skin Mechanical Properties in Psoriasis Vulgaris. Acta Derma, 3/1999 H.Dobrev, Non-invasive Monitoring of the Mechanical Properties of Keloids during Cryosurgery. Acta Derm Venereol, 1999 J.Grudeva-Popova, H.Dobrev, Biomechanical measurement of skin distensibility in scleredema of Buschke associated with multiple myeloma. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 2000 H.Dobrev, Evaluation of the photoprotective activity of topical indomethacin, betamethasone valerate and emollients by means of non-invasive measurements of the skin elasticity. H.Dobrev, Photoaging and Skin Elasticity. National Session of Young Scientists, May 2000 H.Dobrev, Changes in Skin Elasticity after an Application of Emulsions containing urea and alphahydroxy acids. 7 th National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000 H.Dobrev, Influence of telegrammatherapy on the skin physiology. 7 th National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000 H.Dobrev, Treatment of psoriasis vulgaris with hydrocolloid occlusive dressins in combination with betamethasone dipropionate 0.05% cream. 7 th National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000 H.Dobrev, Use of Cutometer to assess epidermal hydration. Skin Reserach and Technology 2000. H.Dobrev, Immediate effects of cosmetic series for men “Karo Royal” on the skin water content and pH. 7 th National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000 H.Dobrev, Assessment of cosmetical products by means of measurements of the epidermal water content and residual lipid film on skin surface. 7 th National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000 Prof. Ph. Humbert, Melanin And Erythema Measurements By The Mexameter MX 16, Université de Franche-Comté, Laboratoire d´Ingéniérie et de Biologie Cutnaées, 2000. N.Ota, T.Horiguchi, N.Fujiwara, N.Kahibuchi, Y.Hirai, F.Mori, Identification of Skin Sensitivity through Corneocytes Measurements. IFSCC Magazine-vol.4, No.1 – 2001 Surveys conducted in many nations suggest that up to 50% of cosmetic users believe they have sensitive skin and products specifically designed for this skin type have become an important cosmetic category. In developing such products, objective assessment of the degree and the type of sensitivity is H\litlist\studies 12/06 81 desirable. Unfortunately, currently available methods, including measurements of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and lactic acid stinging test do not correlate well with self-assessed sensitivity and cannot be used to identify persons who are more prone to develop adverse skin reactions than other users. B.D.Park, J.K.Youm,, S.Jeong,E.H.Choi, S.Hun, The Effectiveness of Multi-Lamellar Emulsion damaged skin. Personal Care Ingredients Asia, March 2001 H.Song, The Effects of Inositol Extracted from Rice on the Skin. Personal Care Ingredients Asia, March 2001 K.Mijyajmoto, Quantitative comparison of the differences in facial skin aging and Skin Biophysical Properties in Japanese femals living in south and north part of Japan, and global research expansion on Caucasians, East Asians, Indian Asian and Latinos. 5 th ASCS, March 2001 L.Rigano, F,Distante, A.Bonfigli, E.Berardesca, Functional map of “normal” and “sensitive” facial skin for trans-epidermal water loss, capacitance and microcirculation. 5 th ASCS March 2001 E.Apt, R. I.S.Tranggono, Comparative Study of Several Whitening Agents in Cosmetic Products. 5 th ASCS March 2001 A.Msi, T.Rosemiarti, E.Apt, R.Tranggono, Comparison Study on Single and Multi Alpha Hydroxy Acids in Decreasing the Number of Melanin. 5 th ASCS March 2001 F.Di Pierro, G.Guglielmini, A.Cristoni,Cosmetic Evaluation of Cucurbita Pepo and Zanthoxylum Alatum Supercritical CO 2 Extracts. 5 th ASCS March 2001 M.Park, S.Ma, J.Kim, H. Hanbul, Study of Preparation of Sodium Chloride-Free w/s Emulsion Using NFM, Chitin Derivatives and the Other. 5 th ASCS March 2001 Health Surveillance. HSE (Health & Safety Guidance), March 2001 A.O.Barel, R.Lambrecht, P.Clarys, Mechanical Function of the Skin: State of the Art. Skin Bioengineering. Vol 26, March 2001 The in vivo mechanical properties of the human skin have been studied extenively. The skin is a complex five-layered structure organ, which as many other biological materials presents the typical properties of elastic solids and various liquids in a combined way known as viscoelastic properties. Typical mechanical properties of viscoelastic material are nonlinear stress-strain properties with hysteresis (the stress-strain curve obtained during loading will not be superposed by the curve obtained during unloading). D.Iliev, U.Hinnen, P.Elsner, Skin Bioengineering Methods in Occupational Dermatology. Skin Bioengineering Vol. 26, March 2001 Measuring biophysical properties of the skin is not only useful to study cutaneous physiology and pathology but may also be of value for the prediction of eczema risk, for the detection of subclinical eczema and for therapy control in occupational dermatology. M.Rohr, K.Schrader, Climatic Influence on Cosmetic Skin Parameters. Skin Bioengineering Vol. 26, March 2001. A high degree of standardization is required in order to quantify the effects of cosmetics. As the following discussion will show, it is not only normal standardization procedures, such as acclimatization of volunteers in special air-conditioned laboratories, which have to be taken into consideration when interpreting objective and subjective cosmetic parameters, but also the effect of the actual climate during the application phase and especially during the days of measurement. H\litlist\studies 12/06 82 G.Pellacani, B.Belletti, St.Seidenari, Evaluation of the Short-Term Effects of Skin Care Products: A Comparison between Capacitance Values and Echographic Parameters of Epidermal Hydration. Skin Bioengineering, Vol. 26, March 2001. The hydration kinetics of the epidermis is influenced by various environmental conditions and controlled by the organism. Since the stratum corneum receives water from within the body and from the environment. Different techniques have been employed to detect and measure surface changes after application of skin care products, to define the mechanisms of water binding in the stratum corneum and to objectively measure the hydration effects of moisturizers. B.Gabard, P.Treffel, Correlation of in vitro and in vivo Testing. Skin Bioengineering, Vol. 26, March 2001. A major problem encountered during the development of topical preparations not designed for transdermal but for local activity is to ensure sufficient therapeutic activity or, in the case of generic formulations, bioequivalence with the branded product. There are several possible approaches to evaluate the penetration of drugs into the skin and to investigte the effect of different vehicles on topical drug delivery. R.R. Wickett, Stretching the Skin Surface: Skin Elasticity. C&T, March 2001. This contribution to the series “From Test to Claim” deals with the instrumental measurement of skin elasticity, discussing measuring conditions, relevant parameters to record, data analysis and the type of conclusions that could be drawn from such measurements. In particular, this paper will review the use of the Dermal Torque Meter (DTM) and the Cutometer to measure the elasticity of the stratum corneum. T. Hermanns-Le, F. Jonlet, A.Scheen, G.E.Pierard, Age- and Body Mass Index-Related Changes in Cutaneous Shear Wave Velocity. Experimental Gerontology, 36, 363-372, 2001 J.L. Nizet, C. Pierard-Franchimont, G.E.Pierard, Influence of Body Posture and Gravitational Forces on Shear Wave Propagation in the Skin. Dermatology, 202, 177-180, 2001-05-14 D.Khazaka, News in the Field of Elasticity Measurement. Cosmetic Science Conference 2001 Th.Dietz, Two Novel O/W Emulsifiers with Complementary Properties. Cosmetic Science Conference 2001. M.Ghyczy, W.Gehring, V.Vacata, B.Gertchen-Ohligschläger, Normalisation of Skin Humidity in SLS Pertubed Human Skin In Vivo by Gel State Phosphatidylcholine. Cosmetic Science Conference 2001 K.Jones, St.Orndorff, Aloesin: A Potent Skin Whitener, Cosmetic Science Conference 2001 T.H.Kim. E.H.Choi, Y.C.Kang, S.H.Lee, S.K.Ahn, The Effects of Topical α-Hydroxyacids on the Normal Skin Barrier of Hairless Mice. British Journal of Dermatology 4011, 2001 K.Y.Roh, D.Kim, S.J.Ha, Y.J.Ro, J.W.Kim,H.J.Lee, Pigmentation in Koreans: Study of the Differences from Caucasians in Age, Gender and Seasonal Variations. British Journal of Dermatology 3958, 2001 M. Paye, Y.Cartiaux, V.Goffin, G.E. Pierard, Hand and Forearm Skin: Comparison of their Respective Responsiveness of Surfactants. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.2, May 2001 A.O.Barel, R.Lambrecht, P.Clarys, B.M.Morrison, jr., M.Paye, A Comparative Study of the Effects on the Skin of a Classical Bar Soap and a Syndet Cleansing Bar in Normal Use Conditions and in the Soap Chamber Test. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.2, May 2001 H\litlist\studies 12/06 83 A.E.Sagiv, S.Dikstein, A.Ingber, The Efficiency of Humectants as Skin Moisturizers in the Presence of Oil. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.1, February 2001 Y.Yoshizawa, H.Tanojo, S.J. Kim, H.I.Maibach, Sea Water or its Components Alter Experimental Irritant Dermatitis in Man. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.1, February 2001 S.J.Bashir, A.Chew, A.Anigbogu, F.Dreher, H.I.Maibach, Physical and Physiological Effects of Stratum Corneum Tape Stripping. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.1, February 2001 G.G.Hillebrand, B.Schnell, K.Miyamoto, M.Ichihashi, R.Shinkura, S.Akiba, The Age-Dependent Changes in Skin Condition in Japanese Females Living in Northern Versus Southern Japan. IFSCC Magazine, Vol. 4, No. 2, April/June 2001. Ch.Fox, Literature and Patent Review: Analytical and Test Methodologies 1990-2000, Part I. C&T, Vol. 116, No. 4, April 2001-05-21 W.Gehring, M.Gloor, Der Effekt von Dexpanthenol bei experimentell geschädigter Haut. (The effect of dexpanthenole in experimentally damaged skin). H+G, Band 76, April 2001-05-21 J.Lübbe, C.Ruffieux, G.van Melle, D.Perrenoud, Irritatives Potenzial des Händedesinfektions- mittels n-propanol auf vorgeschädigter Haut. H+G, Supplement 1/2001 T.Reuther, S.C.Behrens-Williams, M.Kerscher, Untersuchungen zur Wirkung von Mometasonfuroat-Fettcreme auf die epidermale Barriere. H+G, Supplement 2/2001 J.Djordjevic, G.Vuleta, H.Zhai, H.I.Maibach, J.Milic, Effect of the Oil Phase of O/W Emulsions with Vitamin E Acetate on Skin Moisutre Content and Skin Barrier Function. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001 R.Roguet, C.Faller, F.Dreher, C.Lotte, I.Harris, M.Bracher, D.Pollet, U.Pfannenbecker, N.Dami, M.Ponec, Evaluation of Reconstructed Human Epidermis Kits for the In Vitro Assessment of Cosmetic Safety. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001 W.Wigger-Alberti, A.Krebs, N.Göritz, K.P.Wilhelm, P.Elsner, Concurrent Testing of Cutaneous Irritants in Vivo. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001 H.M.Ribeiro, J.Morais, L.Rodrigues, Long-term Influence of Polymers on the Biological Properties of the In Vivo Normal Human Skin. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001 N. Widler, A.Sigrist, F.Gafner, Lipid Analysis and Transepidermal Water Loss in Snakes. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001 P.Contreiras Pinto, L.M. Pereira, R.Minhos, J.Serra, L.Rodrigues, The In Vivo Skin Water Content Dynamical Analysis Through Compartmental Modeling a Validation Approach. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001 B.Deog Park, Y.Kim, M.Jin Lee, J.K. Youm, S.Jeong,E.Ho Choi, S. Hun Lee, Properties of a Pneudoceramide Multi-Lamellar Emulsion In Vitro and In Vivo. C&T June 2001 Many physiochemical and biological functions of skin-care products in the last decade were generally concerned with the stratum corneum (SC). The structure of the SC was proposed as a “brick & mortar model” by Elias in 1981. Bricks represented the corneocytes and intercellular lipids (composed of cholesterols, fatty acids and ceramides) formed the mortar. H\litlist\studies 12/06 84 M.Gloor, B.Wasik, W.Gehring, Hat ein Hamamelis-Destillat eine entzündungshemmende Wirkung?. H+G Zeitschrift, Ausgabe 7/8-2001. Fragestellung: Beeinflußt der Wirkstoff Hamamelis die irritative Reaktion der Haut bei experimentellen Irritationsmodellen? Versuchsanordnung: Bei 15 Versuchspersonen wurde der Natriumlaurylsäure (NLS)-Irritationstest an jeweils 4 Versuchsstellen beider Unterarme volar durchgeführt. Es wurde einmal täglich 1% NLS 30 Minuten lang appliziert. Nach Beendigung der NLS-Einwirkung wurden die Prüfpräperationen aufgetragen. An den jeweils 4 symmetrischen Versuchsstellen wurden geprüft. R.Estanislao, M.Suero, C.Galzote, Z.Rivera, A.Khaiat, In-Vivo Evaluation of Skin Viscoelasticity and Anisotropy Using Reviscometer ® RVM 600. Skin Research Technology 2001 A prototype of a new instrument, Reviscometer RVM 600 from COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronic GmbH was proven to measure in-vivo skin viscoelasticity and anisotropy. The measurement of the instrument based on the speed of acoustical shock wave propagation in the skin done in different directions allowed evaluation of skin firmness and directional variations in viscoelasticity. In-vivo measurements of facial, volar and dorsal forearm skin of female subjects in four different age groups from three different test locations (Manila, Seoul and New Delhi) showed that skin firmness and anisotropy, as measured by the instrument, are age-dependent. H.Dobrev, Evaluation of the inhibitory activity of topical indomethacin, betamethasone valerate and emollients on UVL-induced inflammation of means of non-invasive measurements of the skin elasticity. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, January 2001. Topical indomethacin has been reported to inhibit ultraviolet light-induced erythema. The objective of this study was to verify this assertion and to compare indomethacin 10% ointment to betamethasone valerate 0.1% ointment, water-in-oil emulsion and oil-in-water emulsion by means of non-invasive skin elasticity measurements. K.Articus, Validierung und Anwendung eines photometrischen Verfahrens zur Rauhigkeitsmessung von Hautoberflächen. Doktorarbeit 2000 Die kosmetische Industrie lobt ihre Produkte mit den unterschiedlichsten Behauptungen (“Claims”) aus. Einige lassen sich mit wissenschaftlichen Methoden gut nachweisen und quantifizieren (“befeuchtet die Haut”, Triebskorn und Gloor, 1993), andere entziehen sich der biometrischen Erfassung (“macht die Haut geschmeidig”). Einige Parameter, die sich meßtechnisch sehr zuverlässig erfassen lassen, (transepidermaler Wasserverlust) liefern Aussage, die der Verbraucher nicht selber nachvollziehen kann (“stärkt die Barrierefunktion der Haut”, Frosch et al.,1993). F.Ourvrard-Baraton, A.Bernois, D.De Queral, B. Le Varlet, C.M.Vincent, B.Nagot, C.Ailaud, M.Bayer, N.Garcia, C.Miquel, N.Perichou, P.courtellemont, O.Doucet, A.Mavon,C.Mikler, J.P.Marty, Validation inter-laboratoire d’un modèle d’absorption percutanée in vitro: pouvoir discriminant de la peau d’oreille de porc. Infuence de la perte insensible en eau (P.I.E.) et de la pilosité. Poster for SFIC,Lausanne/CH, Juli 2001 I.Castiel-Higounenc, R.Jourdain, C.Queille-Roussel, C.Ferraris, P.Bastien, R.Schmidt, O.de Lacharrière, IS barrier function disrupted in atopic xeroxis. Poster for SFIC,Lausanne/CH, Juli 2001 K.Tsukahara, Y.Takema, S.Moriwaki, T.Fujimura, S.Mayama, G.Imokawa, Carbon dioxide laser treatment promotes repair of the three-dimensional network of elastic fibres in rat skin, British Journal of Dermatology, Vo143, 2001. We have previously reported that ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation induces a loss of linearity in the three- dimensional structure of dermal elastic fibres, which results in the reduction of elastic properties of the skin and leads to wrinkle formation. We further reported that repair of wrinkles by all-trans retinoic H\litlist\studies 12/06 85 acid is accompanied by recovery of the linearity of elastic fibres. Carbon dixide lasers are widely used for treating wrinkles in cosmetic surgery. C.Fuchs, C.Heinemann, S.Schliemann-Willers, P.Elsner, Wirksamkeitsnachweis eines Pflegeproduktes. Kosmetische Medizin 4/2001. Berichtet wird über eine dreiwöchige Anwendungsbeobachtung eines Pflegeproduktes, in welcher der Einfluss des Produktes auf die Hornschichtfeuchtigkeit an 20 Probanden mit atopischer Hautdisposition und trockener, irritierbarer Haut in Form einer Kurz- und Langzeitstudie getestet wurde. D.Perrenoud, D.Gallezot, G.Van Melle, The efficacy of a protective cream in a real-world apprentice hairdresser environment. Contact Dermatitis Vol.45 No.3, September 2001. The object of this study was to compare the protective action of a new barrier cream to its vehicle in the context of hand irritation of apprentice hairdressers caused by repeated shampooing and exposure to hair-care products. Ch.Y.Levin, H.I. Maibach, Do cool water or physiologic saline compresses enhance resolution of experimentally-induced irritant contact dermatitis? Contact Dermatitis Vol.45 No.3, September 2001 Acute irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is frequently treated with cool water or saline compresses. While presumed effective, little quantitative evaluation documents the treatment’s benefit. This study sought to determine the efficacy of both distilled water and physiologic saline compresses on experimentally-induced ICD. P. Clarys, L.Lambrechts, K.Alewaeters, A.O.Barel, Influence of in vivo iontophoresis on the skin barrier and percutaneous penetration. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001. M.Rohr, A.Schrader, FOITS – Corneometry influenced by experimental side conditions. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001. I.Le Fur, F.Morizot, S.Lpez, C.Guinot, J.Latreille, E.Tschachler, Seasonal changes in skin biophysical properties in healthy Caucasian women. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001. M. Egawa, T.Hirao, M.Takahashi, The measurement of skin friction using a frictional feel analyzer. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001. K.Articus, Ch.A.Brown, K.P.Wilhelm, Scale-sensitive fractal analysis using the patchwork method for the assessment of skin roughness. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No. 2, August 2001. As skin roughness and wrinkles are easily perceived by the consumer, quantifying skin surface structures is a vital parameter for cosmetic product development. As more tools are available for measuring three-dimensional (3-D) surface data, instead of tow-dimensional (2-D) profile lines, new algorithms are desirable, to take advantage of the information gathered. J.F.Hermanns, L.Petit, T.Hermanns-Le, G.Pierard, Analytic quantification of phototype-related regional skin complexion. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No. 2, August 2001. Narrow-band spectrophotometry that yields melanin (M) and erythema (E) indexes is a convenient method for assessing skin colour. The objective of the study was to assess the phenotype-associated body site differences in skin complexion. K.De Paepe, K.Janssens, JP Hachem, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Squamometry as a screening method for the evaluation of hydrating products. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No. 2, August 2001. Squamometry is a combination of sampling corneocytes by adhesive coated discs following by colour measurements after staining the cells. In this study, the correlation between stratum corneum (SC) H\litlist\studies 12/06 86 hydration and scaling was investigated using capacitance measurements and squamometry, respecitively. H.Blitz, HP Nissen, S.Sustmann, Body care for sensitive and especially dry skin. Scientific Study Eubos Med – 2001 The test product EUBOS sensitive shower oil F exhibits very gooed skin compatibility with dry and very dry skin and is also suitable for cleansing eczematous skin. S.Sustmann, Body care for dry skin. Scientific Study Eubos Med – 2001 The test product EUBOS DERMAL BALSAM is very well-tolerated by the skin. Evidence of the suitability of the product for dry skin conditions with an impaired barrier function was provided by studies on the regeneration of damaged skin as well as the positive effect on skin moisture, tautness, and roughness. S.Sustmann, Face care for sensitive and particularly dry skin. Scientific Study Eubos Med – 2001 The test products EUBOS sensitive moisturing cream and EUBOS sensitive regenerating cream are characterized by excellent skin compatibility particularly with sensitive and dry skin. The very good skin compatibility is confirmed by both the subjective assessment of the subjects and the objective assessments made in a controlled test program. HP Nissen, S.Sustmann, Body care for normal to oily and sensitive skins. Scientific Study Eubos Med – 2001 The test product EUBOS liquid is characterized by the following properties on dermatological and physiological skin testing: - Excellent skin compatibility - Intensive cleansing/defatting effect on the skin surface - No drying-out of the skin - No refatting properties P.M. Van Zuijlen, Perspectives On Burn Scar Evaluation and Artificial Skin. Dissertation 2002 C.Piérard-Franchimont, G.E.Piérard, Postmenopausal Aging of the Sebaceous Follicle: A Comparison between Women Receiving Hormone Replacement Therapy or Not. Dermatology 07/2002 The endocrine control of sebaceous follicles is complex in women. During aging, a decline in sebum output is often experienced. However, some women report increased seborrhea after the menopause. C.Piérard-Franchimont, G.E. Piérard, Beyond a Glimpse at Seasonal Dry Skin: A Review. Exogenous Dermatology 2002 On clinical ground, the so-called dry skin corresponds in reality to a rough, sometimes flaky and scaly stratum corneum The spectrum of xerotic disorders is quite large encompassing diverse aetiologies and physiopathological pathways. J. Djordjevic, g. Vuleta, J. Milic, H. Zhai, H. Maibach, O/W Emulsions Enriched with Vitamin E. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002 April, Vol. 117, Nr. 4 Vitamin E has an important protective function for the entire organism. It is believed that the broad biological activities of vitamin E are due to its ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation and stabilize biological membranes. Charles Fox, Antimicrobials, Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002 April, Vol. 117, Nr. 4 This article reviews antimicrobial agents and their use in personal care products as reported in more than 50 patents and journal articles published between 1996 and 2001 J. W. Wiechers, C. Verboom, V. A. L. Wortel, W. A. Starmans, Multifunctionality: From „One in More“ to „More in One“,Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002 April, Vol. 117, Nr. 4 H\litlist\studies 12/06 87 The authors explain the requirements for interactions of single components in mixtures in order to obtain multifunctional mixtures. These requirements include synergy and the need to excel in a single specific performance. John Woodruff, Body of evidence, Test, Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics 2002 April Proving effect may not be new but it is of course an absolute requirement these days. And there are many different ways of going about it, explains John Woodruff A. Pagnoni, Photoaging and Photodocumentation, Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 2002, Vol. 117, Nr. 1 Techniques to photograph or image skin photodamage have reached new levels of sophistication. This survey discusses clinical grading, light imaging techniques, videomicroscopy and threedimensional in vivo measuring systems. S. Richert, A. Schrader, K. Schrader, Comparing Methods to Measure Porcine Skin Integrity In Vitro, Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 2002, Vol. 117, Nr. 1 To confirm the integrity of porcine skin prior to penetration tests, published studies show that measuring transepidermal water loss, transdermal electrical resistance or caffeine penetration levels are often chosen techniques. New results demonstrate that TEWL is the superior method. B. Gabard, S. Schliemann-Willers, Better Skin Protection with New Barrier Creams, SÖFW Journal, 128. Jahrgang 4-2002 Skin protection creams are considered judicially as cosmetics. Besides a good efficacy, a main requirement to be fulfilled by these preparations is maximal safety as they are often applied on lesioned skin. H. Tronnier,Effects of Textiles on Human Skin, SÖFW Journal, 128. Jahrgang 4-2002 Very often, the people concerned as their employers make detergent residues in clothes responsible for skin reaction to textiles. Sometimes allergies are suspected. G. Maramldi, M. A. Esposito, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate: A Multifunctional Skin Lightener, Cosmetics & Toiletries, March 2002, Vol. 117, Nr. 3 Skin lightening and sebum normalization are among the useful cosmetic functions of potassium azeloyl diglycinate, a soluble derivative of azelaic acid. N. Widler, A. Sigrist, F. M. Gafner, Lipid Analysis and Transepidermal Water Loss in Snakes, IFSCC Magazine January/March 2002, Vol. 5, Nr. 1 The lipids of 101 snake sheddings from 32 different species kept at Pentapharm’s serpentarium were extracted and analysed by HPLC/LSD (light scattering detection) and TLC. The snake shedding extracts were compared with those of human stratum corneum. E. Camel, L. Arnaud-Boissel, S. Schnebert, M. Neveu, S.K. Tan, J-P. Guillot, Does Asian Skin Induce Significant Changes in Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Determination Compared to Caucasian Skin: One of the First In-Vivo Correlations, IFSCC Magazine January/March 2002, Vol. 5, Nr. 1 The aim if this study was to compare the SPF of three sunscreens (SPF 6/8 – 15/20 – 25/30)and 2 standards (FDA, COLIPA fla P2), according to COLIPA recommendations, in panels of Asian (Singapore) and Caucasian (France) volunteers. G. G. Hillebrand, M. J. Levine, K. Miyamoto, The Age-Dependent Changes in Skin Condition in African Americans, Asian Indians, Caucasians, East Asians, and Latinos, IFSCC Magazine, October/December 2001, Vol. 4, Nr. 4 Understanding the similarities and differences in skin characteristics as a function of age, race and geography should aid in the development of skin care products that better meet consumers’ skin care needs around the world. H\litlist\studies 12/06 88 P. Contreiras Pinto, L. M. Pereira, R. Minhós, L M. Rodrigues, Testing the Discriminative Capacity of Compartmental Modeling for the Analysis of the IN-VIVO Epidermal Water Content Changes Following Topical Application under Occlusion, IFSCC Magazine, April/June 2002, Vol. 5 No. 2 Mathematical modelling of cutaneous variables is an attractive strategy to meet the complex nature of in-vivo skin, especially in the presence of an external stimulus such as a topical product. S. Schliemann-Willers, Wigger-Alberti, P. Kleesz, R. grieshaber, P. Elsner, Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis, Contact Dermatitis, January 2002, Vol. 46 No. 1 Chronic irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is one of the most pressing problems in occupational medicine and is common in the food processing industry. To date, protective creams that fulfil the special requirements in the foodstuffs industry have not been available. C. Hun Huh, K. Il Seo, S. Duck Kim, Ji Han, Hee Chul Eun, Biophysical changes after mechanical injury of the stratum corneum in normal skin, Contact Dermatitis, January 2002, Vol. 46 No. 1 Scrubbing off the stratum corneum with a rough towel after soaking in warm water is a bathing custom unique to Korea. However, Korean dermatologists have advised against this practice due to the potential harm that it may cause, though there is little data to support this advice. M. Fuchs, S. Schliemann-Willers, C. Heinemann, P. Elsner, Tacrolimus enhances irritation in a 5- day human irritancy in vivo model, Contact Dermatitis, May 2002, Vol 46 No. 5 Tacrolimus (FK 506) is a macrolide discovered in 1984 as a metabolic product of Streptomyces tsukabaensis. It has been used successfully in treating atopic dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis, lichen planus mucosae and pyoderma gangrenosum. In the present study, we evaluated the antiinflammatory activity of FK506 in 2 human skin inflammation models. M. Stücker, M. Hoffmann, P. Altmeyer, Instrumental evaluation of retinoid-induced skin irritation, Skin Research and Technology 2002, No. 8 Adapting retinoid therapy to the patient’s skin type can reduce the initial irritative side-effects. During the first days, patients with skin type 1 or 2 should add a medium potency corticosteroid. Stronger skin irritation caused by tazarotene therapy increases therapy effects. K.-P. Wilhelm, K. Kaspar, F. Schumann, K. Articus, Development and validation of a semiautomatic image analysis system for measuring skin desquamation with D-Squames, Skin Research and Technology 2002, No. 8 Analysing D-Squames with the image analysis system proved to be reproducible, independent of the shape of ROI, cost effective and fast and easy to operate. It has shown to be a suitable and reliable method for the objective determination of desquamation levels. Urquhart C., Rayner C., Mavena ® Mg 46 Dead Sea Salt Balneotherapy Accelerates Restoration of Barrier Function in Japanese Skin, 20 th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris Therapeutic bathing in Dead Sea salt solution in the ambulatory setting is commonly referred to as “Balneotherapy”. Chronic skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are often associated with a poor hydration status and a compromised barrier function of the skin. Dead Sea salts have a different mineral composition to salts arising from other sources. Seidenari S., University of Modena, Italy, Non-Invasive Techniques for Diagnosis and Monitoring of Skin Diseases: an Updating of Recent Techniques useful in Dermatology, 20 th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris Besides the necessity of a realistic assessment of spontaneous course of diseases, the evaluation of the cost/benefit ratio of potentially new treatments is increasingly required. Objective documentation of dermatological disorders can be achieved by means of bioengineering techniques, which provide numerical values as a basis for statistical analysis and enable instant in vivo information in the absence of interferences with the spontaneous course of the disease. H\litlist\studies 12/06 89 Le Fur I., Lopez S., Morizot F., Latreille J., Guinot C., Tschachler E., Age-Related Reference Ranges for Skin Biophysical Parameters in Healthy Women, 20 th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris Purpose: The aim of this study was to establish age-related reference ranges in healthy Caucasian women for some widely used skin biophysical parameters. Le Fur I., Reinberg A., Lopez S., Morizot F., Tschachler E., Facial Skin Circadian Rhythms of Healthy Women Investigated Using Non-Invasive Methods, 20 th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris Purpose: The aim of this study was to document around the clock changes in a set of skin biophysical parameters. Holm E.A., Jemec G.B.E., Objective Measurement of Atopic Dermatitis with Non-Invasive Techniques, 20 th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris Quantification of desease severity is a prerequisite for the development of evidence based therapy. Today, patient history and clinical scoring are the main tools for dermatologists when attempting to assess the morbidity of patients with atopic dermatitis AD. These methods however have their limitations, as they all are operator dependant and frequently show poor inter- and intra-observer reproducibility. F. Distante, L. Rigano, R. D’Agostino, A. Bonfigli, E. Berardesca, Intra- and Inter-Individual Differences in Sensitive Skin, Cosmetics &Toiletries July 2002, Vol. 117, No. 7, The authors investigated the intra-individual and the inter-individual variations of transepidermal water loss, capacitance and microcirculation in 10 different facial areas in subjects with “sensitive skin” and in subjects with “non-sensitive skin”. Johann W. Wiechers, Frans J. Groenhof, Vincent A. L. Wortel, Richard M. Miller, Neil A. Hindle, Anthony Drewitt-Barlow, Octadecenedioic Acid for a More Even Skin Tone, Cosmetics &Toiletries July 2002, Vol. 117, No. 7, Octadecenedioic acid, a new nature-derived ingredient made via biofermentation from oleic acid, bas demonstrated efficacy in a variety of applications, including skin toning, dandruff reduction and deodorancy. Rodolphe Korichi (LVMH Lab R&D),Video Imaging in the Measurement of Makeup Efficacy and Performance, Cosmetics & Toiletries October 2002, Vol. 117 No. 10 Video imaging techniques add quantitative data about the visual effects of makeup when evaluating efficacy and performance of products such as mascaras, lip colorants, facial foundations and nail enamels. Liye Maeyama (Cognis Japan), Whitening Complex with Waltheria indica Extract and Ferulic Acid, Cosmetics & Toiletries October 2002, Vol. 117 No. 10 Waltheria indica extract, ferulic acid and certain other ingredients act synergistically in a whitening complex that inhibits tyrosinase and provides mild exfoliation. EH Choi, W-S Park, E-D Son, SM Hwang, MJ Kim, SK Ahn, SH Lee, The effect of change in epidermal calcium gradient on stratum corneum lipid and epidermal differentation, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. Lamellar bodies (LBs) are the source of lipid composition of the stratum corneum (SC). SC intercellular lipid bilayers formed from secreted LBs are the most important structure of the permeability barrier. The cornified cell envelope (CE), formed during the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes, is a specialized structure covalently bound with SC intercellular lipids. This forms a structurally and functionally complete permeability barrier. Also, during epidermal differentiation, specific keratins are synthesized. H\litlist\studies 12/06 90 R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, K. Alewaeters, A.O. Barel, Influence of in vivo iontophoresis on the skin barrier and percutaneous penetration, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. Iontophoresis is a technique used to enhance the transdermal delivery of a drug by means of an electric current. The iontophoretic transport is influenced by several factors, such as concentration, size, ionic strength and the lp of the drug and pH of the solvent, and also by the applied intensity and shape of the current and the application time. T. Schmidt, N. Widler, F. Gafner, G. Imanidis, Stratum Corneum lipid composition as a predective tool for permeability?, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. This theory envisages a linear correlation between the logarithm of the steady-state flux and the exchange cohesive energy between the permeating molecule and the lipid compounds of the stratum corneum (SC). The latter cohesive parameter is obtained from solubility parameter calculations and an attempt is made to verify the theoretical approach with experimental permeability data. M. Rohr, A. Schrader, FOITS – corneometry influenced by peripheral expperimental conditions, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. Besides a good compatibility, which should be a matter of course for cosmetic products, the skin’s physiological effectiveness, in particular moisture and skin-smoothing effects, are of main interest for this kind of product. Techniques such as FOITS (Fast Optical In vivo Topometry of human Skin), and corneometry are used to investigate their effectiveness. In order to succeed in reproducible and statistically significant results, experimental side conditions, such as a defined panel, controlled climatic conditions or a test design that includes a positive and a negative standard, are the basic starting tools. D. Black, A. Del Pozo, Y. Gall, Evaluation of surfactant effects on stratum corneum using squamometry, transepidermal water loss measurements and the sorption-desorption test, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. Overexposure to certain cleansers will result in skin damage, manifested by impaired barrier function, leading to irritant reactions with prolonged use. Evaluation of barrier function deterioration is thus a useful indicator of early stratum corneum (SC) damage, and may help to predict potential skin irritancy for these products. The squamometry technique has been used for assessing cleansers in terms of their degree of “mildness”, and appears useful as a complementary method for screening their irritant potential. J. Gareiss, M. Ghyczy, Normalization of inflammation and humidity in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) – perturbed skin in vivo by gel state phosphatidylcholine, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the most abundant component of biological membranes. It possesses an intrinsic hydration force, and its metabolites are essential osmoprotectants. PC that is composed of saturated fatty acids (hydrogenated PC), also named gel-state PC or HPC, possesses physical properties that are comparable with those of the components of the skin permeability barrier. K. De Paepe, J.-P. Hachem, E. Vanpee, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Beneficial corneotherapeutic effects of skin-tolerance-tested moisturizing creams, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. In the present work, an oil-in-water (o/w) moisturizing cream was applied to experimentally elicited, scaly skin in order to investigate whether the product could promote a more rapid recovery of the disturbed barrier function (as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL measurements) than physiological barrier repair. Experimental models of both irritant (ICD) and allergic (ACD) contact dermatitits were applied. ICD was provoked by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), well known for its damaging action on the skin barrier function. The ACD study concerned a nickelmediated contact allergy patch (CAP) test, carried out in nickel-sensitized volunteers. H\litlist\studies 12/06 91 I Le Fur, F. Morizot, S. Lopez, C. Guinot, J. Latreille, E. Tschachler, Seasonal changes in skin biophysical properties in healthy Caucasian women, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd. The human skin surface has to adapt constantly to changing environmental conditions, such as temperature and relative humidity. Several studies have demonstrated the detrimental effects of winter weather in our countries on the skin and seasonal changes in certain biophysical parameters. The work presented here examines seasonal variations of biophysical parameters on facial skin in Caucasian women in France. E. Proksch, H.P. Nissen, M.F. Bremgartner, C.J. Urquhart, Erhöhung der Hautfeuchtigkeit durch Mg-reiches Duschgel, Kosmetische Medizin, 4/2002, 23. Jahrgang Baden oder Duschen mit gewöhnlichen Detergenzformulierungen kann zu Problemen bei Patienten mit Psoriasis, Ekzemen und bei trockener Haut führen. Detergenzien können eine Irritation verursachen und die Trockenheit der Haut verschlimmern. Die therapeutische Wirkung des Totes Meer Salzes bei Hauterkrankungen ist seit der Antike bekannt; Magnesiumsalze sind der überwiegende Bestandteil des Salzes aus dem Toten Meer. In der vorliegenden Untersuchung wurde die Wirkung eines Duschgels, welches ein besonders magnesiumchlorid-reiches Salz aus der Tiefe des Toten Meeresenthält (Mavena Derma Line Mg46 Duschgel), zur Reinigung bei Psoriatikern eingesetzt. T. Gambichler, P. Altmeyer, S. Rotterdam, M. Herde, M. Stücker, K. Hoffmann, Bioengineering der Haut, Kosmetische Medizin, 4/2002, 23. Jahrgang Nicht-invasive Untersuchungstechniken (Bioengineering) am Hautorgan werden in der Dermatologie und Kosmetologie zunehmend eingesetzt. Gegenüber der bloßen klinischen Untersuchung bietet der Einsatz von Bioengineering-Methoden viele Vorteile. Es lassen sich morphologische und funktionelle Parameter der Haut objektiv darstellen und standardisiert messen, die der bloßen klinischen Untersuchung bzw. sensorischen Wahrnehmung oft unzugänglich sind. MegaSun beauty & care, Sonnen ohne Risiko, Kosmetische Medizin, 4/2002, 23. Jahrgang Sonne gilt für große Bevölkerungsteile als die Universal-Arznei aus der „Himmelsapotheke“. Doch der Dermatologe rät: Was für die Risiken und Wirkungen von Arzneimitteln gilt, gilt auch für die Solarien-Besonnung: Die Dosis ist entscheidend. Auf der Pressekonferenz am 16.10.2002 in Hamburg präsentierte die KBL-Solarien AG den Medien sowie dem Fachhandel ein auf streng wissenschaftlicher Basis entwickeltes Gerät zur individuellen Hauttypbestimmung, um Solarstrahlen für gesunde und natürliche Bräune optimal zu dosieren – das megaSun care Terminal. P. Humbert, P. Creidi, B. Chadoutaud, J.C. Choulot, P. Msika, Photoageing: clinical and biometrological results of a double-blind randomized trial evaluating a new cosmetic product containing avocadofurane plus pentapeptides and retinol (abstract), 11 th Congress of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, Prag 2002. The role of metallo matricial proteinases (MMPs) in cutaneous ageing is now well established. Moreover the decrease of TGF-beta has been more recently discovered. Two new molecules have been developed in this field: pentapeptides which inhibit the production of MMP1, -3, -9 by UV exposure on fibroblast cultures and pure heptadecadienylfurane (Avocadofuranea) which increases the collagen synthesis via a specific stimulation of TGF beta. U. Uksal, C. Atasavun, B. Özcelik, S. Utas, A. Ferahbas, The effects of hormone replacement therapy on the skin of postmenopausal women (abstract), 11 th Congress of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, Prag 2002. The study was performed to compare skin pH, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface lipids and hydration in postmenopausal women receiving hormone replacement therapy (HRT) and those who not. Two parallel age-matched groups (each 24) of 48 postmenopausal women evaluated by tewameter, sebumeter, pHmeter and corneometer. H\litlist\studies 12/06 92 Mariko Egawa, Motoki Oguri, Tomohiro Kuwahara, Motoji Takahashi, Effect of exposure of human skin to a dry environment, Skin research and Technology, Vol. 8,No. 4, Nov. 2002 There was a significant decrease of water content of stratum corneum at both test sites from the time points 0 h to 3 h and 6 h (P<0.01) and transepidermal water loss from the time point 0 h to 6 h (P<0.05). Regarding the roughness parameters, a significant increase of Rz in the directions of 45º/225º and 90º/270º to the body axis and Sm in the directions of 0º/180º (P<0.05) on the forearm and VC1 (P<0.05) on the cheek. H.S. Yoon, S.H. Baik, C.H. Oh, Quantitative measurement of desquamation and skin elasticity in diabetic patients, Skin research and Technology, Vol. 8,No. 4, Nov. 2002 Diabetes mellitus is responsible for many cutaneous alterations. Xerosis and sclerotic change of the skin are the most common findings. Recently non-invasive computerized devices have been developed and used for determining the desquamation rate and measuring the mechanical properties of the skin. Using these devices, the necessity to characterize the conditions of the skin in the healthy as well as the diseased state is increasing. Nirmal Koshti, Shubhangi Naik, An absorbing matter, SPC Asia, November 2002 The harmful effects of solar UV radiation on skin and hair are well documented. The damage to white skin can be extremely severe. It starts with erythema, goes on to sunburn and can ultimately end in skin cancer. The damage to hair, particularly blonde, is significant , too. Solar UV radiation makes hair brittle, rough and difficult to comb. Human hair has been shown to lose tensile strength as a result of cleavage of the disulphide bond of hair keratin upon exposure to UV radiation. G.R. Leonardi, L. R. Gaspar, P.M. Campos, Application of a non-invasive method to study the moisturizing effect of formulation containing vitamins A or E or ceramide on human skin, Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 53, No. 5, September/October 2002 Moisturizers containing vitamins A and E as well as ceramides are believed to improve the skin condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. The aim of this research was to evaluate, through the capacitance method (a non-invasive method), the moisturizing effect of an O/W emulsion (non-ionic self-emulsifying base) containing vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, and ceramide III on human skin. The studies were carried out on a group of 40 healthy Caucasian female test subjects between 30 and 45 years of age, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC. G. Yener, T. Incegül, Importance of protection from harmful effects of solar radiation by using solid lipid micropheres of UV filters, Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 53, No. 5, September/October 2002 Sun protecting substances are capable of protecting humans from harmful effects of solar radiation such as aging and skin cancers. Due to the depletion in ozone layer, research regarding to sun protection has become a major concern. Since these preparations are often applied an large skin areas even low penetration rates can cause significant amount of chemical UV absorber to enter the body. Sun protecting preparations need to achieve a controlled release. Liye Maeyama – Cognis Japan, Synergistic whitening complex with Waltheria indica extract and ferulic acid, Personal Care, November 2002 Melanins are black polymeric pigments that determine skin and hair color. An abnormal increase in the amount of melanin in the epidermis is the reason for hyperpigmentation such as cloasma, freckles, etc. melanin is synthesized by specialized cells, the melanocytes, which are located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Stored in melanosomes (granules in the melanocytes), the melanins are distributed to keratinocytes surrounding the melanocytes. Ken-ichiro O’goshi, Makiko Iguchi, Hachiro Tagami, Functional analysis of the stratum corneum of scalp skin:studies in patients with alopecia areata and androgenetic alopecia, Arch. Dermatol. Res. (2000) , Springer-Verlag Because of the presence of thick long hairs on the scalp, little information is available concerning the functional characteristics of the stratum corneum (SC) of scalp skin. We therefore conducted a H\litlist\studies 12/06 93 functional study of the SC of lesional scalp skin of patients with alopecia areata and of patients with androgenetic alopecia.We compared the scalp with the cheek and the flexor surface of the forearm (volar forearm). The water barrier function of the scalp SC of both patient groups, in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), was almost comparable to that of the volar forearm, and was far better than that of facial skin. P.G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, M.O. Sator, J.C. huber, H. Hönigsmann, Parameters of skin aging during hormone replacement therapy, EADV /th Congress, Abstract Submission Form All patients with HRT showed an increase in skin hydration, elasticity and thickness, as well as subjective and clinical improvement. J.W. Fluhr, A.J. Fowler, J.-P. Hachem, D. Crumrine, P.M. Elias, K.R. Feingold, Stratum corneum acidification in neonates: impact on permeability barrier homeostasis and integrity/cohesion, 2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002 Mammalian newborn stratum corneum (SC) displays a near-neutral surface pH, whichdeclines during the early post-natal period to adult levels. We developed a model to study the mechanisms and consequences of SC acidification in the neonatal period. In newborn rats the surface pH, measured with a flat glass electrode (pH-Meter, Courage+Khazaka)declined from an almost neutral pH (6.8) after birth to physiologic levels (5.6) over 5 days. J.W. Fluhr, J.L. Sugarman, T.L. Diepgen, M.L. Williams, The objective severity assessment of atopic dermatitis (OSAAD), 2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002 An objective measure utilizing permeability barrier function and stratum corneum hydration, with computer-assisted estimates for extent of disease. * J-H. Park, S-W. Son, Y-M. Yoon, M-H. Lee, Y-S. Lee, H-C. Kim, H-S. Oh, C-H. Oh, Objective evaluation for xerosis by morphological study in atopic dermatitis, 2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002 It is essential to be able to measure and record the severity of atopic dermatitis for routine clinical practice and research. Many clinical severity scales have been proposed, but not yet objective. Of severity scoring systems currently available for atopic dermatitis, the SCORAD index has been the most extensively tested. M-H. Lee, S-J. Hong, J-H. Park, H-C. Kim, H-S. Oh, C-H. Oh, Quantitative evaluation of patch test results – comparing the studies between new skin color analysis technique and other bioengineerin tools, 2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002 Contact dermatitis is a common problem occurring in the field of dermatology and patch test is the only reliable procedure for the detection of the causative agent. In evaluation of patch test result, visual scoring system is wide being used as a objective method. However, it is well known that variations exist even in the interpretations by experienced dermatologist. Chris a. Helen Packham, Health and Safety at work: special report, Occupational Skin Management Update, Croner, Issue 60, August 2002. I. Uhoda, N. Faska, C. Robert, G. Cauwenbergh, G.E. Pierard, Split face study on the cutaneous tensile effect of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 8, No. 3, August 2002 Large interindividual variations precluded any significant finding in the first study. The DMAE formulation showed, however, a significant effect characterized by increased shear wave velocity in the direction where the mechanical anisotropy of skin showed looseness. The DMAE formulation under investigation increased skin firmness. H\litlist\studies 12/06 94 S.W. Youn, S.J. Kim, In A Hwang, K.C. Park, Evaluation of facial skin type by sebum secretion: Discrepancies between subjective description and sebum secretion, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 8, No. 3, August 2002 People secrete varying amounts of sebum at different skin sites. Reclassification of skin type based on sebum secretion revealed that most participants underestimated the amount of facial sebum excretion. When sebum secretion amounts were compared, a statistically significant difference was apparent between the oily and dry skin types. However, there were no statistical differences between oily and normal, and normal and dry skin. Oba A., Gomi T., Nishimori Y., Graves C., Pearse A., Edwards C., A Non-invasive Method for Measuring Invisible Subcutaneous UV Damage, 22 nd IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, 25.09.2002 Repeated exposure to UV radiation can induce subcutaneous damage leading to permanent structural degradation and formation of visible wrinkles. In the early stages when damage is slight, the body is capable of repairing itself , and intervention with certain drugs or treatment products may slow or even reverse the process of photoaging. This is not possible, however, when damage is severe and extensive. K. Sugata, T. Nishijima, T. Kitahara, Y. Takema, Etiology of the intrinsic and natural texture of human skin, 22 nd IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, 25.09.2002 Skin texture, i.e. the surface of the skin consisting of furrows and ridges, is very tangible and important factor in the cosmetic field which makes skin beautiful. Although moisture and aging modify the texture, the mechanism(s) underlying the formation of intrinsic and natural skin texture remain obscure. In this study, to elucidate the etiology governing skin texture formation in vivo, we removed a portion of the epidermis by the suction blister method and investigated the recovery of the epidermal architecture of dermoepidermal junctions and viscoelasticity during the regeneration of the skin. H. Zahouani, C. Pailler-Mattei, R. Vargiolu, M.A. Abellan, Assessment of the elasticity and tactile properties of the human skin surface by tribological tests, 22 nd IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, 25.09.2002 The current paper describes the assessment of the visco-elasticity and tactile properties during a static and frictional contact of a spherical indentor on an inner human forearm. The current techniques that simultaneously measure the normal load F z between the contacting surfaces and the friction force F x , can be used to determine the normal and lateral stiffness, the Young modulus, static and dynamic friction forces F z , F d and respective friction coefficients: µ s , µ d . B. Roy, Duoskin: significant hydratisierende Wirkung, Kosmetische Medizin, Ausgabe 5/2002, 23. Jahrgang Die hydratisierende Wirkung der beiden Präparate Duoskin Gesicht und Duoskin Körper wurde bewertet und mit der von zwei hydratisierenden Referenzprodukten verglichen. Es handelt sich um eine monozentrische, vergleichende, randomisierte Studie. Die Ergebnisse beziehen sich auf 12 Frauen mit sehr trockener Haut. Jede Probandin war gleichzeitig ihre eigene Kontrolle, da ein Areal unbehandelt blieb. E. Kawai, Y. Kohno, K. Ogawa, K. Sakuma, N. Yoshikawa, D. Aso, Can inorganic powders provide any biological benefit in stratum corneum, while residing on skin surface?, IFSCC magazine, Vol. 5, No. 4, oct./dec. 2002 The plasminogen (Plg) activation system plays a role in the process leading to dry skin with impaired barrier function, and serine protease inhibitors are known to improve dry skin. In this study. We have discovered that a urokinase-type Plg activator (UK), a trigger of the Plg activation system, which was previously believed to work within the epidermis, also exists in stratum corneum (SC). Focusing on the UK reaction in SC, we sought to develop a method of dry skin prevention. Rodolphe Korichi, Video imaging in the measurement of makeup efficacy and performance, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 10, October 2002 H\litlist\studies 12/06 95 Video imaging techniques add quantitative data about the visual effects of makeup when evaluating efficacy and performance of products such as mascaras, lip colorants, facial foundations and nail enamels. Liye Maeyama, Whitening complex with waltheria indica extract and ferulic acid, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 10, October 2002 Waltheria indica extract, ferulic acid and certain other ingredients act synergistically in a whitening complex that inhibits tyrosinase and provides mild exfoliation. I. Le Fur, F. Morizot, S. Lopez Seasonal changes in skin biophysical properties in healthy Caucasian women, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 60, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lévêque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002. The human skin surface has to adapt constantly to changing environmental conditions, such as temperature and relative humidity. Several studies have demonstrated the detrimental effects of winter weather in our countries on the skin and seasonal changes in certain biophysical parameters. The work presented here examines seasonal variations of biophysical parameters on facial skin in Caucasian women in France. J. Gareiss, M. Ghyczy Normalization of inflammation and humidity in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-perturbed skin in vivo by gel state phosphatidylcholine, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 55, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lévêque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002. Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the most abundant component of biological membranes. It possesses an intrinsic hydration force, and its metabolites are essential osmoprotectants. PC that is composed of saturated fatty acids (hydrogenated PC), also named gel-state PC or HPC, possesses physical properties that are comparable with those of the components of the skin permeability barrier. D. Black, A. del Pozo, Y. Gall Evaluation of surfactant effects on stratum corneum using squamometry, transepidermal water loss measurements and the sorption-desorption test, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 41, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lévêque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002. Overexposure to certain cleansers will result in skin damage, manifested by impaired barrier function, leading to irritant reactions with prolonged use. Evaluation of barrier function deterioration is thus a useful indicator of early stratum corneum (SC) damage, and may help to predict potential skin irritancy for these products. R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, K. Alewaeters, A. O. Barel Influence of in vivo iontophoresis on the skin barrier and percutaneous penetration, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 21, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lévêque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002. Iontophoresis is a technique used to enhance the transdermal delivery of a drug by means of an electric current. The iontophoretic transport is influenced by several factors, such as concentration, size, ionic strength and the Ip of the drug and pH of the solvent, and also by the applied intensity and shape of the current and the application time. E. H. Choi, W.-S. Park, E.-D. Son The effect of change in epidermal calcium gradient on stratum corneum lipid and epidermal differentiation, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 10, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lévêque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002. Lamellar bodies (LBs) are the source of lipid composition of the stratum corneum (SC). SC intercellular lipid bilayers formed from secreted LBs are the most important structure of the permeability barrier. The cornified cell envelope (CE), formed during the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes, is a specialized structure covalently bound with SC intercellular lipids. L.M. Rodrigues, P.C. Pinto, P. Lamarao, After-sun claims substantiation: experimental criteria to assess the in vivo effects of sun care products under controlled-using conditions, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 10, October 2002 H\litlist\studies 12/06 96 The authors describe a practical method of substantiating claims of “after-sun” products. Ten healthy women 35-65 years old were irradiated on both legs (antero-lateral) in a laboratory for six sequential days using an indoor solarium-type UV source. Efficacy assessment endpoints were defined from the product’s typical claims. Pieter Vermaas, Schietsimulatie zonder docent, apb Algemeen Politieblad, Nr. 19, 5. Oktober 2002 Zonder aanwezigheid van een docent je schietvaardigheid oefenen op het bureau. Het kann in nog geen enkele Europese politieorganisatie, maar wel in regio Brabant-Noord. „Voor zover wij weten werkt nog niemand anders met zo’n docentonafhankelijke schietsimulatie“, denken Brabantse docenten. H. Zahouani , J. Asserin, Ph. Humbert, Mechanical Properties of the Skin During Friction Assessment, CRC Press 2002, pp. 49-58. Previous studies on the tribology of human skin have attempted to demonstrate a correlation between certain certain tactile sensations and the friction between the skin surface and variety of probes. In addition, friction measurements have been used to provide in vivo information about the effects of age, hydration, dermatitis, and cosmetic products on both the interfacial and bulk properties of skin. C.K.S. Chew, P.G. Hykin, C. Jansweijer, S. Dikstein, J.M. Tiffany, A.J. Bron, The casual level of meibomian lipids in humans, Current Eye Research, Vol. 12, No. 3, 1993 Using a modified skin surface lipid measuring instrument, the Meibometer, the amounts of meibomian lipid on the lid margins (the casual levels) of 421 subjects aged 1 to 94 years were measured. The lowest levels were found in children younger then 14 years (means ± S.E.: males = 1.48 ± 0.17, females 1.53 ± 0.17 μg lipid/mm 2 lid margin surface) and rose with age, the highest levels being found in males aged 60-69 years (means ± S.E.= 3.26 ± 0.18 μg lipid/mm 2 lid margin surface). J.M. Tiffany, A,J. Bron, F. Mossa, S. Dikstein, delivery of meibomian oil using the clinical Meibometer, Lacrimal Gland, Tear Film, and Dry Eye Syndromes 2, Plenum Press, New York, 1998 Tear film studies in recent years have emphasized the importance of the oily secretion of the meibomian glands in reducing evaporation from the open eye and in promoting stability of the precorneal film. The thickness of the spread oil film is readily measured, but little information exists on the amount of oil available for the film, or on its quantity or manner of delivery from the glands. Astrid de Castro, Efectividad de cremas antienvejecimiento con activos naturales, GCI Latinoamerica, Vol. 1, No. 2, Mai-August 2002, La autora describe un estudio con el uso de una crema que contiene una mezcla de filtros solares fisicos, extractos vegetales, hidratantes, antirradicales libres, sustancias antiinflamatorias con el objetivo de comprobar la eficacia de materias primas de origen vegetal en el tratamiento y prevencion del fotoenvejecimiento. J. Sook Koh, H. Kang, S.W. Choi, H.O. Kim, Cigarette smoking associated with premature facial wrinkling: image analysis of facial skin replicas, International Journal of Dermatology 2002 Current smokers have a higher degree of facial wrinkling than nonsmokers and past smokers. Past Smokrs who smoked heavily at a younger age show less facial wrinkling than current smokers. In the analysis, which was adjusted for age group, the relative risk of moderate to severe wrinkling for current smokers compared with nonsmokers was 2.72 (confidence interval, Cl: 1.32-3.21, P < 0.05). Prof. K.-D. Neander, Dr. F. Hesse, The role of cream mousses in the treatment of dry skin in patients with diabetes mellitus, LII, Issue 10/2001, Pages 19,20,21 Diabetics are well known for their frequent struggles with the problem of “dry skin”. The diverse and unpleasant effects to which these patients are exposed range from pruritus to skin inflammations, particularly in the interdigital spaces of the feet. As has been demonstrated in a variety of studies, lack of moisture is at the heart of this problem. H\litlist\studies 12/06 97 K. Yoshimura, K. Harii, T. Aoyama, T. Iga, Experience of a strong bleaching treatment for skin hyperpigmentation in orientals, www.st.rim.or.jp/~ktyoshi/list/ra-prs.html The protocol was composed of two steps: a bleaching step (2-6 weeks) and a healing step (2-6 weeks). 0.1-0.4% all-trans retinoic acid aqueous gel was originally prepared and applied concomitantly with hydroquinone, lactic acid ointment for bleaching. After obtaining sufficient improvement of the hyperpigmentation, corticosteroid was topically applied with hydroquinone and ascorbic acid in the healing step. Improvement was evaluated with a narrow-band reflectance spectrophotometer. Astron Clinica, Validation experiments, www.fellows.rcsed.ac.uk/personal/marcmoncrieff/ch4.pdf, This study represents the first clinical trial with the SIAscope, a system that produces information about the haemoglobin, total melanin, dermal melanin and collagen content of the epidermis and papillary dermis within the region of interest scanned. Studies have been performed that measured the theoretical accuracy of the system in determining these parameters (Cotton, 1998; Hojjatoleslami et al., 2000). It was decided that experiments should be undertaken that could determine whether the SIAscope was indeed measuring these parameters. The four sets of experiments determining each of the SIAscope parameters are described below in the style of a short paper. Pierre Agache, H. I. Maibach, Physiologie De La Peau Et Explorations Fonctionelles Cutanées, Editions Médicales Internationales, Cachan cedex, August 2002. La biopsie de surface a vu le jour lorsque des colles au cyanoacrylate sont devenues disponsibles [1, 2]. L´utilisation d´une lamelle en polyéthylène comme support du prélèvement fut une nouvelle étape décisive au développement de cette technique [3]. Miklos Ghyczy, VladimirVacata, Phosphatidylcholine and Skin Hydration, “Skin Moistarization”, Cosmetic Science and Technical Series Vol. 25, ed. by J. Leyden, Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 2002. Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the most abundant phospholipid in animal cells. It possesses an intrinsic hydration force, and its metabolites are essential osmoprotectants. Phosphatidylcholine composed of saturated fatty acids (hydrogenated PC; HPC) possesses physical properties which are comparable with those of the components of the skin permeability barrier. Hristo Dobrev, In vivo study of skin mechanical properties in Raynaud’s phenomenon, 14 th International Congress for Bioengineering and the skin, May 21-24, 2003 Mechanical properties of the skin in patients with suspected secondary Raynaud’s phenomenon significantly differ from these in patients with primary Raynaud’s phenomenon and resemble those in patients with edematous phase of scleroderma. Our findings suggest that the non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity could be helpful in identifying patients with Raynaud’s phenomenon at risk of developing systemic sclerosis. * J. Fluhr, Jeffrey L. Sugarman, Thomas L. Diepgen, M. L. Williams, The Objective Severity Assessment of Atopic Dermatitis (OSAAD) Score, 61 st Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, March 21-26, 2003 Measurements of epidermal permeability barrier function and SC hydration correlated closely with clinical estimates of disease severity. PH was found not to be a sensitive measure of AD severity. The OSAAD score correlated well with current “gold standard” of AD severity, the SCORAD (p<0,001; Spearman correlation coefficient of r=0,63439) Nils Krüger, Lucy Fiegert, Dagmar Becker, Tilman Reuther, Martina Kerscher, Spurenelemente in Form eines Kupfertripeptidkomplexes, Kosmetische Medizin, 1/2003, 24. Jahrgang In den letzten Jahren wurde eine Reihe von neuen dermatokosmetischen Wirkstoffen entwickelt, um Hautalterungssymptome zu bessern. Neben konsequentem Lichtschutz, Retinol und Antioxidantien werden jetzt auch in deuschland Spurenelemente bei Hautalterung eingesetzt. In der hier vorgestellten offenen, kontrollierten Untersuchung an 40 Probanden zeigte sich bei topischer Applikation von Kupfertripeptid eine Zunahme der Hautdichte in der 20MHz-Sonographie, eine verbesserte H\litlist\studies 12/06 98 Hydratation der obersten Hautschichten gemessen mittels Corneometrie sowie eine im vergleich zu retinol und Placebo signifikant stärkere Glättung der Haut, erfasst mit dem Visio-Scan. Astrid Castro, Quantitative measurement of skin color changes with visual assessment correlation, The findings confirmed the suitability of developed clinical trial protocol for skin whitening efficacy evaluation using the Mexameter MX 16 as a tool for the quantitative measurement of skin color changes. The procedure of standardization used in the study is simple and workable in a clinical setting. Factors of importance include the control of test site as well as environmental controls. Astrid Castro de Castro, Evaluacion in vivo de despigmentantes de origen natural y/o biotecnologicos Teniendo presente la alta incidencia de hiperpigmentaciones, y la necesidad de obtener un producto seguro, efectivo y sin reacciones adversas, nos propusimos evaluar in vivo la accion despigmentante de una sustancia obtenia por Biotecnologia mezclada con extractos naturales, que denominamos “N- M” contra otras ya conocidas de origen quimico y vegetal, que correspondian al Extracto de Glycirrhiza Glabra, Acido Kojico, Hidroquinona y Extracto de Fagus Sylvatica. A.. Vargas , A. Castro, Formulacion de jabon liquido con productos naturals:medida de su efectividad Los habones estan formados por la saponificacion de acidos grasos de alto peso molecular, con alkalis. Teniendo presente la incidencia de dermatitis de contacto por Jabones y la solicitud del consumidor y especialista tratante, de un producto seguro, no irritante, y que no remueva la capa lipidica, se formulo un Jabon con productos naturales que aporta el efecto buscado. Siguiendo los principos de formulacion se utilizaron mezclas de detergents anionicos y anfotericos con una sustancia viscosante. Astrid Castro de Castro, Sericina en preparaciones capilares para cabellos danados: medida de su efectividad El cabello humano esta sometido a una agresion ambiental que contribuye a causar degradaciones quimicas y estructurales. Se disenaron dos preparaciones con Hidrolizado de Sericina: champu acondicionador y ampolla revitalizante. Se estudiaron 20 pacientes con cabellos danados, observandose el dano mediante un Visiscan VC 98. cada paciente uso: champu y ampolla 3 veces/semana/30 dias. M. Kucharekova, M. Hornix, T. Ashigaka, S. T’kint, G.J. de Jongh, J. Schalkwijk, P.C.M. van de Kerkhof, P.G.M. van der Valk, The effect of the PDE-4 inhibitor (cipamfylline) in two human models of irritant contact dermatitis, Archives of Dermatological research, Vol. 295, April 2003 Repeated application revealed that betamethasone-17-valerate caused a statistically significant reduction in erythema and TEWL compared to cipamfylline and placebo. We also observed a significant suppression of proliferating cells and cytokeratin 16 expression at sites treated with betamethanose compared to the other sites. Thomas Förster , Henkel KgaA, Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier, 2001 by Marcel Dekker There is no doubt that the application os cosmetic lipids has many positive effects on the structure and function of the skin. These effects are pleiotropic, caused either by direct interaction with the epidermis, particularly the stratum corneum, or indirectly, by influencing the physiologic, homeostatic condition of the skin. K. De Paepe, J-P Hachem, J-M Lagarde, E. Houben, Y. Galle, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Skin microrelief topography measuerements of ageing skin using a light transmission method, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Anti-wrinkle creams, anti-ageing products and all kinds of skin care products, developed to affect skin relief and reduce lines and wrinkles, are very popular and good sellers. Also for these products, it is necessary to comply with the actual cosmetic EU legislation and to substantiate the claims made. H\litlist\studies 12/06 99 D. Brokken, L.J.M. Schlangen, P.M. van Kemenade , A mechanical model for the skin suction experiment, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 The skin suction experiment is one of the most widely used methods in dermatology and cosmetology to evaluate the mechanical properties of the skin. Usually, the skin is sucked into an aperture repeatedly by applying an intermittent partial vacuum (P). Simultaneously, the elevation of the skin into the aperture (U) is measured. I. Sadiq, T. Stoudemayer, A. Kligman, Blue light visualizes the degree of solar elastosis in photodamaged human facial skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 We have utilized the short wavelength visible light (blue light) to visualize the fluorophores and chromophores of photo-aged facial skin. Topographic details of the surface can also be seen with great clarity. Two band-pass interference filters with a central wavelength of 417 nm, were placed in front of two 400 watt xenon flash lamps. H. Dobrev, In vivo studyof skin mechanical properties in Raynaud’s phenomenon, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Raynaud’s phenomenon is usually the first symptom in patients with systemic sclerosis and may precede skin changes by several months or years. Non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity are very sensitive and appropriate for objective and quantitative evaluation of sclerodermatous skin. The aim of this study was to investigate and compare the mechanical properties of the skin in patients with primary, secondary and suspected secondary Raynaud’s phenomenon. H-C Kim, S-J Hong, M-H Lee, J.S. Moon, H.S. Oh, M-G. Kim, C.H. Oh, S.J. Park, Objective evaluation of severity in SLS-induced irritant dermatitis: comparing the studies between new skin color analysis technique and other bioengineering tools, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 In evaluation for severity of SLS-induced irritant dermatitis, visual scoring system is wide being used as a subjective method. However, it is well known that variations exist even in the interpretations by experienced dermatologist. So it is required to develop the new objective and quantitative method for the assessment for severity of SLS induced irritant dermatitis. S. Savic, N. Cekic, S. Tamburic, J. Milic, G. Vuleta, The effect of urea from dermo-cosmetic emulsions on skin hydration and its barrier function: a vehicle-controlled study, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 A number of studies have shown that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could improve skin barrier function, despite of its penetration enhancing properties. This controversial skin effect has not been explored systematically in terms of the effectof vehicle on the performance of urea. H.K. Lee, S.Y. Bae, S.J. Moon, I.S. Chang, Comparisons of skin characteristics between men and women using non-invasive methods in young healthy Asians, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Skin has different properties depending on intrinsic effects such as inherent factors, race, gender and so on. Besides, it has been known that skin may change because of the environmental stress such as UV, climate and life style. We would like to know the differences of skin characteristics between male and female. The results of this study might be applicate the depart of dermatology and cosmetology. L. Monteiro Rodriguez, J. Martins Magro, Bioengineered characterisation of the thermal burn injury healing process, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Full thickness burn injuries may be followed-up through non-invasive bioengineered methodologies. This elegant approach to this complex multifactorial process allows us to obtain quantitative data involving several variables representing structure and function, providing more objective support to practical management and therapeutical intervention. I.F. Almeida, D. Endo, M.F. Bahia, Moisturizing properties of two oleogels following single application, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 H\litlist\studies 12/06 100 Oleogels are interesting new systems obtained with a hydrophobic liquid. On the last years there were discovered and developed many organogelators that in same cases were able to gelify biocompatible liquids. Their applications were investigated in several areas such as organic chemistry, environmental chemistry and also in pharmaceutical and cosmetics fields. R. Pena Ferreira, P. Costa, F. Bahia, Visioscan VC 98 application: a comparison study between coarse and smooth skin surface, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 The skin is a result of many biochemical and physical factors and these are subject to changes both internally and externally. What is aging? Must of us define aging in terms of the appearance of people in our life experience. Others studying aging mechanisms define aging as a decrease in functional capacity. In the last few years, a great deal of data has been generated on aging mechanisms trying to determine if the aging process is a single event, a one-gene process, or a multifaceted process produced by many events and perhaps many genes. J. Fluhr, J.S. kao, P.M. Elias, K.R. Feingold, Short-term glucocorticoid treatment compromises both permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity: inhibition of epidermal lipid synthesis accounts for functional abnormalities, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Prolonged exposure of human stratum corneum to excess endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids (GC) can result in well-recognized cutaneous abnormalities. Here, we determined wheter short-term GC treatment would alter two key functions of the skin, permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum (SC) integrity and cohesion, and the basis for these changes. S. Bielfeld, M. Brandt, A. Gerstenkorn, K. Wilhelm, Capacitance measurement of skin moisture: sophisticated calibration of instruments, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Absolute valuesof different instruments designed to measure the skin capacitance are not comparable, even though they all work with the same measurement principle. Even in the same instrument type differences in measurement results are common. For this reason, studies are generally performed with only one instrument and a comparison of data obtained in different studies with different instruments is not regarded as valid. P.C. Pinto, R. Minhos, L.M. Pereira, L. Monteiro, Validation of a compartmental model to quantitatively describe transepidermal water loss, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 New computational methods are being applied to analyze data from TEWL experiments mostly using non-linear algorithms. A new strategy involving the application of a compartmental model to TEWL data obtained from a Plastic Occlusion Stress Test (POST) has been used with encouraging results. This strategy is now being validated in order to establish its major determinants affecting the model`s parameters. P.C. Pinto, L.M. Pereira, L. MonteiroRodriguez, Skin water dynamics: disposition-decomposition analysis (DDA) od transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and epidermal capacitance, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 Knowledge about human skin water dynamics seems to represent a growing importance to understand the organ’s normal physiology. Mathematical modelling of (cutaneous water) related variables obtained through skin bioengineering, provided new perspectives to approach this problem. M. Bock, H.J. Schwanitz, Site variations in susceptibility to SLS at the volar forearm evaluated by TEWL measurement, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 According to the “guidelines on sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) exposure test” of the ESCD standardisation group the flexor side of forearm skin with cubital fossa and wrist excluded is the preferred study site’. This study analyses the exact anatomic region within the suggested test area in respect to the outcome of SLS exposure test. H\litlist\studies 12/06 101 M. Setaro, A. Sparavigna, It is possible to define a “biological age”of the skin?, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 The evaluation of global skin performance as compared to anagraphical age of the subject is until today dependent on clinical evaluation. By doing so, “pre-clinic” alterations of skin aging, are often missed, loosing the possibility to set up adequate strategies of prevention and treatment. Non-invasiev evaluations based on the measurements of skin parameters allow to monitor functional alterations of the skin with age in objective, sensitive specific and reproducible way. H.S. Oh, M.H. Lee, S.Y. Park, H-C Kim, J-S Moon, M-G Kim, C-H Oh, New skin colour analysis technique, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 It is very important aspect in skin color analysis that the objective evaluation for color distribution in same image. But conventional spectrophotometer are able to analysis as average value of rgion of interest (ROI) not to color distribution analysis. We tried to develop the new skin color analysis technique so as to objective measured skin color distribution as a pixel or ROI using liquid crystal tunable filter (LCTF) and CCD camera. H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Frictiometry on human skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003 The state and function of human skin can be quantified by numerous non-invasive test methods. There are, however, still no valid methods to measure the tactile properties of the skin surface and thus to quantify the state of the skin on the one hand, and to determine the negative and positive effects of tactile influences on the other hand. The measuring device (Frictiometer) consists of a sensor, a steering unit and a monitor. The torque, the circular friction on the skin surface, is measured via the motor load current and is shown as a voltage drop. A. Castro, Evaluation of the moisturizing effectivity of different materials (ES), Colamiq Congress in Cartagena, 2003 La resequedad de la piel tiene diversos origenes: disminucion de lipidos, perdida de agua transepidermal, factores hormonales, geneticos, medicamentosos, ambientales. Durante muchos anos se han buscado medicamento o procedimientos que puedan revertir o detener los danos de la piel que se presntan a traves del curso de la vida, inducidos por factores externos o internos. La condicion de piel seca que afecta a un amplio universo de la poblacion, viendose mas marcada en la poblacion adulta, aunque tambien se presenta en la poblacion joven, juega un papel determinante en el proceso de envejecimiento de la piel. A. Castro de Catsro, S.H. T. Casares, Luis Augusto Castro Sader, Efectividad de activos naturales para evitar la formacion de la piel de naranja, Colamiq Congress in Cartagena, 2003 La aparacion de la aestetica piel de naranja conjuntamente con la disminucion de la forma, sedosidad, y brillo de la piel de un cuerpo joven, afecta la imagen femenina de tal forma que hoy en dia, se ha transformado en un verdadero problema social y psicologico, padecerla es peor que tener algun mal que genere dolor. L. Orejarena, A. Castro, Evaluacion de la efectividad hidratante de diferentes sustancias y su estabilidad fisica, Actualizaciones Terapeuticas, dermatologicas y Esteticas, Nov.-Dec. 2002, Vol. 25 La resequedad de la piel tiene diversos origenes: disminucion de lipidos, perdida de agua transepidermal, factores hormonales, geneticos, medicamentosos, ambientales. Conociendo que esta condicion es una de las mas tratadas por especialistas, y que infinidad de productos dermocosmeticos especifican ser hidratantes, sin evaluacion de efectividad ni estabilidad, nos propusimos evaluar la actividad de diferentes hidratantes, en varias bases. L.C. de Ramayo, A. Castro, Luis Augusto Castro Sader, Medida de la efectividad de reguladores de grasa de origen natural, Colamiq Congress in Cartagena, 2003 En la actualidad existe un numero considerable de consumidores que presentan una piel con una apariencia aceitosa, grasosa, brillante, untuosa al tacto que desde todo punto de vista resulta H\litlist\studies 12/06 102 desagradable. Hoy en dia, se habla mas de un problema de calidad de sebo en la superficie de la piel que de aumento de la oleosidad y la piel grasosa se ha convertido en un problema serio de la piel. U. Heinrich, U. Koop, K. Osterrieder, S. Bielfeld, C. Chkarnat, J. Degwert, D. Häntschel, S. Jaspers, H-P. Nissen, M. Rohr, G. Schneider, H. Tronnier, Multicentre comparison of skin hydration in terms of physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters by the capacitive method, International Journal of Cosmetics Science, 2003, 25, 45-53 * A multicentre study for measuring skin hydration with 349 volunteers was carried out in six different laboratories. The purpose of the study was to investigate physical-, physiological- and product- dependent parameters of three test emulsions (base, base+moisturizer and base+moisturizer+lipids) in a double-blind study. A comparison between analogous and digital sensor technology of the Corneometer CM 825 was examined. M. Jouandeaud, M. Dana, B. Closs, A new generation of tensor actives, Household and Personal Products Industry, June 2003 After age 50, or thereabouts, women experience a slackening of the skin and a loss of elasticity and tone. Cutaneous aging results primarily in the appearance of more or less marked wrinkles, which are accentuated on the photo-exposed body areas such as the face, the neck or hands. In order to “erase”the effects of age, consumers are eager to test an entire range of anti-wrinkle substances, or take more drastic measures such as undergoing plastic surgery. L.P.L. van de Vijver, E. Boelsma, R.A. Bausch-Goldbohm, L. Roza, Subjective skin condition and its association with objective skin measurements, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 118, No. 7, July 2003 From a group of 302 volunteers, the authors obtained both selfreported subjective evaluations of skin condition and objective measurements of skin conditions, and then looked for correlations between the subjective and objective kin measures. L.M. Rodrigues, P. C. Pinto,L.M. Pereira, Quantitative description of human skin water dynamics by a disposition-decomposition analysis (DDA) of trans-epidermal water loss and epidermal capacitance, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.9, No. 1, Feb. 2003 In vivo water assessment would greatly benefit from a dynamical approach since the evaluation of common related variables such as trans-epidermal water loss or “capacitance” measurements is always limited to instantaneous data. Mathematical modelling is still an attractive alternative already attempted with bi-exponential empirical models. Y. Yoshizawa, K. Kitamura, S. Kawana, H. Maibach, Water, salts and skin barrier of normal skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.9, No. 1, Feb. 2003 We recently reported that open application of seawater for 20 min ameliorated experimental irritant contact dermatitis induced by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) cumulative irritation. The efficacy was overall contributed by 500 mM of sodium chloride (NaCl) and 10mM of potassium chloride (KCl), which are consistent with the each concentration in seawater. L.J.M. Schlangen, D. Brokken, P.M. van Kemenade, Correlation between small aperture skin suction parameters: statistical analysis and mechanical model, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.9, No. 2, May. 2003 Skin suction experiments are widely used in order to evaluate the effects of skin treatments, both for cosmetic and for dermatological purposes. Classically, the elevation of the skin is measured at different discrete time instances after the pressure has been changed. Relations between the classical parameters-Uv, Ur, Ue and Uf-have been investigated and used in order to develop a new model for interpreting the mechanical properties of the skin. S. Amari, A. Amari, C. Schubert, Focus on the hydrating profile of two naturally derived emulsifiers, Personal Care , July 2003, Olive oil is the one of the lipids showing the highest compatibility with our skin. The sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands is produced for an important reason: to protect the skin against the H\litlist\studies 12/06 103 environment and to reduce the Trans-Epidermal-Water Loss (TEWL). When one examines and compares the percentage ranges of fatty acids, oleic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acid, waxy esters and squalene contained both in the skin and in wirgin olive oil, it is quickly evident that there is a remarkable similarity. L.R. Gaspar, P.M.B.G.Maia Campos, Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in a sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation, IFSCC , Vol. 6, No. 3/2003 Nowadays, vitamin E acetate is used as an antioxidant and moisturizer in sunscreens. Although free vitamin E presents UV protection effects, little data has been forthcoming documenting the beneficial effects of vitamin E acetate on cutabeous photodamage, when combined with sunscreens. The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of a sunscreen formulation with or without vitamin E acetate on erythema in hairless mice, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation. Stoffe aus dem Prüfstand, Spiegel 37/2003 Wer den ganzen Tag in strapazierfähiger Berufskleidung steckt, hat darunter oft wunde Stellen: Straßenarbeiter, Feuerwehrleute, Großküchenköche. „Durch die ständige Bewegung bei der Arbeit entzündet sich empfindliche Haut besonders dort, wo sie sich an Nahtstellen oder rauem Gewebe reibt.“, sagt Hagen Tronnier, dermatologe an der Universität Witten/Herdecke. Besty, Hughes-Formella, Teststrategien für Mittel gegen trockene Haut, Skin Care Forum, Ausgabe 24, Sep. 2003 Trockene Haut stellt ein häufiges Problem in der Dermatologie dar und repräsentiert eine Dysfunktion der Epidermis, insbesondere des Stratum Corneum als morphologischem Äquivalent der Hautbarriere. Verschiedene Hauterkrankungen wie z.B. Atopische Dermatitis oder Ichthyose basieren auf einer genetischen Disposition für trockene Haut. H. Lambers, H. Pronk, S. Piessens and E. Voss, Natural human skin surface pH is on average below 5, Gordon Conference, Aug. 2003 The acidic surface pH and the pH gradient over the stratum corneum (SC) are important for optimal condition of the skin, supporting the following functions: regulation of skin microflora, thereby preventing pathogenesis, optimal structure and function of the lipid barrier, optimal stratum corneum homeostasis. Sophia Antipolis,Ederline, an anti aging active ingredient In vivo studies on wrinkles, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Dec. 2000 Skin aspect and texture is largely influenced by steroid hormones which are stored in the subcutaneous tissue and act on skin cells as they stimulate the regeneration of the extra cellular matrix. Studies have shown that the decrease of these hormones plays an important role in skin endogenous aging. S. Antipolis, Date Palm Kernel extract exhibits anti-aging properties and significantly improves skin wrinkles, 20 th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris, July 2002 It is well established that body hormones play a central role in skin appearance and are implicated in skin aging. Studies have shown that the decrease of these hormones plays an important role in skin endogenous aging, the decrease of skin thickness, and the disturbance of normal collagen turnover which, in turn, results in a decrease in collagen I and III synthesis. Sophia Antipolis, In vivo Studies of Phytosterol Sulfate Effect on human skin hydration and barrier function, Society for Investigative dermatology, May 2001 Phytosterol Sulfate (PS) is a new sterol and homologue to cholesterol sulfate an essential component in the human epidermis. Sterols are critical for epidermal barrier function; they mediate lipid synthesis and stratum corneum formation, desquamation, and membrane hydration. They also serve as an important precursor for Vitamin D. H\litlist\studies 12/06 104 G. Pierard, La biopsie de urface en dermatology clinique et expérimentale, Rev. Eur. Dermatol. MST 1992 4 455 La biopsie de surface consiste à prelever la partie superficielle de la couche cornée. Il en existe deux variantes. L’une est realisee avec l’aide d’une colle de type cyanoacrylate et une lamelle de plastique transparent. L’autre repose sur l’utilisation de petits disques préencollés disponibles commercialement. C. Pierard, G. Pierard, Cyanoacrylate Skin Surface Stripping for Vizualizing Stratum Corneum Structures and Dynamics, Cyanoacrylate skin stripping (CSSS) came into existence when High-bond glues became available. The introduction of the polyethylene slide used to take the sample was a decisive new stage in the development of this technique. The necessary materials are presented in Table7.1. G. Pierard, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of dry skin(xerosis) and ichthyosis: evaluation by stratum corneum strippings, Skin Research and Technology 1996; 2; 3-11 Evaluation of scaliness in xerotic and ichthyotic conditions is conveniently addressed by stratum corneum strippings. The assessment of scaling conditions by stratum corneum stripping methods may be validly used in the laboratory. Interpretations, however, must be cautious. Direct extrapolations with respect to the water content in the stratum corneum should be avoided. C. Pierard, G. Pierard, Skin surface stripping in diagnosing and monitoring inflammatory Xerotic, and Neoplastic Diseases, Pediatric Dermatology Vol. 2 No. 3 180-184 Skin surface stripping is a useful and simple diagnostic tool for the diagnosis of a number of diseases that affect the skin during childhood and adolescence. The procedure has proved to be especially valuable in inflammatory, xerotic, and neoplastic conditions as it provides information regarding pathologic changes as well as diagnosis. W. Gehring, R. Bopp, F. Rippke, M. Gloor, Effect of topically applied evening primrose oil on epidermal barrier function in atopic dermatitis as a function of vehicle, Arzneimittel- Forschung/Drug Research 49(II), 7, 635-642 (1999) The aim of this study was to establish the effect on barrier function in atopic dermatitis of topical evening primrose oil in an amphiphilic and a stable water-in-oil emulsion. The studies were vehicle- controlled in two populations of 20 atopic subjects. Barrier function was assessed in terms of transepidermal water loss and stratum corneum hydration after a 4-week treatment period and a 1- week treatment-free period. B.A. Green, B.L. Edison, R. Hwu, R.H. Wildnauer, Cosmetic uses of benzilic acid – a lipophilic Alpha-Hydroxyacid (AHA), 12 th European Academy of dermatology and Venereology, Barcelona 2003 October 15.-18. The alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) are used extensively to enhance skin smoothness and clarity, while promoting overall skin health and normalcy. They are also used adjunctively with topical medications for the treatment of skin conditions including acne and hyperpigmentation. Commonly used AHAs, including glycolic acid and lactic acid , are highly hydrophilic and less lipophilic. F. Rippke, V. Schreiner, H-J. Schwanitz, The acidic milieu of the horny layer, Am J Clin Dermatol 2002; 3 (4): 261-272 The acidic pH of the horny layer, measurable on the skin surface, has long been regarded as a result of exocrine secretion of the skin glands. The ‘acid mantle’ was thought to regulate the bacterial skin flora and to be sensitive primarily to skin cleansing procedures. In recent years, an increasing number of investigations have been published on the changes in, and constituents and functions of, the pH of the deeper layers of the stratum corneum, as well as on the influence of physiological and pathological factors. S. Stenzaly-Achtert, A. Schölermann, J. Schreiber, K.H. Diec, F. Rippke, S. Bielfeld, Axillary pH and influence of deodorants, Skin research and Technology 2000;6:87-91 H\litlist\studies 12/06 105 A significan pH reduction was shown during the treatment period when compared to the run-in phase. The Deodorant Roll-on induced a reduction of the mean pH values from 6.1 to 5.3, the Deodorant Balsam Spray from 6.5 to 5.7 and the Deodorant Cream from 6.2 to 5.3. During the wash-out period all pH values returned to baseline. A.G. Shepky, A. Bürger, G. Rudolph, M. Max, U. koop, J. Ennen, M. Kuhn, A. Schölermann, F. Rippke, Mild keratolysis by topical application of proteolytic enzyme subtilisin, The proteolytic enzyme subtilisin offers a novel, especially mild way of keratolysis, obtained already in low concentrations and within the normal pH-range of the skin. The highly purified protease subtilisin from Bacillus subtilis degrades the bonds between the corneocytes and promotes the release of peptides and amino acids as natural moisturizing factors. JW Fluhr, L. Bankova, PM Elias, KR Feingold, Assessment of permeability barrier function measuring transepidermal water loss: comparing 3 closed-loop systems and 4 open-loop systems in vivo and in vitro, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. 10”. The permeability barrier function is traditionally measured with instruments assessing the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) relaying on (i) closed loop systems (ii) open loop systems. In the present study three closed loop system-based instruments were compared under different experimental in vivo conditions with 4 open-loop based instruments: MEECO, H4300, VapoMeter, TM 210, TM 300, DermaLab and EP 1. M. Takahashi, M. Egawa, T. Hirao, The frictional feel analyzer, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. 18”. Sensory evaluation is important in the testing of cosmetic products. Several devices for the measurement of sensory properties have been developed in recent years. The objective here is to measure skin surface friction using these devices and to examine the correlation with other physiological parameters in order to evaluate the feasibility of using physical measurement to predict tactile sensation. A. Barel, R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, Study of the mechanical properties of human skin using the shear wave propagation method, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. 21”. In vivo determination of the elastic properties and anisotropy of human skin can be determined using the shear wave propagation method. The Reviscometer RVM-600 R (Courage-Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) measures the resonance running time (RRT) between two sensors which are placed on the skin surface. S.M. Fuchs, C. Heinemann, J. W. Fluhr, S. Schliemann-Willers, U. Gräfe, P. Elsner, Anti- inflammatory efficacy of Poria cocos in SLS induced irritant contact dermatitis and UVB- induced erythema, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. 39”. A great number of compounds is available for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, the most effective external anti-inflammatory compounds being glucocorticoids. Their side effects have motivated a continuing search for other therapeutical compounds, and fungal metabolites like Poria cocos have figured in the literature. D. Haentschel, M. Gorath, J. Degwert, Non- and semi-invasive quantitative and qualitative assessment of epidermal regeneration by the use of an in vivo wound healing model, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P66”. Normal wound healing is a carefully controlled balance between new tissue formation and destruction processes necessary to remove damaged tissue. The non-invasive measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL; TEWL probe for the DermaLab Cortex Technologies, Hadsund, Denmark) and skin roughness by the use of the PRIMOS (Phaseshift Rapid in vivo Measurement of Skin) system (GF Messtechnik, Teltow, Germany) allows a continuous follow-up of cutaneous processes accompanied with changeable conditions of the impairment of the epidermal barrier function or the skin topographym, respectively. H\litlist\studies 12/06 106 K. De Paepe, J-P Hachem, E. Houben, J-M Lagarde, Y. Galle, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Skin microrelief topography measurements of ageing skin using a light transmission method, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P69”. Anti-wrinkle creams, anti-ageing products and all kinds of skin care products, developed to affect skin relief and reduce lines and wrinkles, are very popular and good sellers. Also for these products, it is necessary to comply with the actual cosmetic EU legislation and to substantiate the claims made. D. Brokken, LJM Schlangen, PM van Kemenade, A mechanical model for the skin suction experiment, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P72”. The skin suction experiment is one of the most widely used methods in dermatology and cosmetology to evaluate the mechanical properties of the skin. Usually, the skin is sucked into an aperture repeatedly by applying an intermittent partial vacuum (P). I. Sadiq, T. Stoudemayer, A. Kligman, Blue light visualizes the degree of solar elastosis in photodamaged human facial skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P74”. We have utilized the short wavelength visible light (blue light) to visualize the fluorophores and chromophores of photo-aged facial skin. Topographic details of the surface can also be seen with great clarity. H. Dobrev, In vivo study of skin mechanical properties in Raynaud´s phenomenon, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P76”. Raynaud´s phenomenon is usually the first symptom on patients with systemic sclerosis and may precede skin changes by several months or years. Non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity are very sensitive and appropriate for objective and quantitative evaluation of sclerodermatous skin. H-C Kim, S-J Hong, M-H Lee, J-S Moon, Objective evaluation of severity in SLS-induced irritant dermatitis: comparing the studies between new skin color analysis technique and other bioengineering tools, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P77”. Objective: In evaluation for severity of SLS-induced irritant dermatitis, visual scoring system is wide being used as a subjective method. However, it is well known that variations exist even in the interpretations by experienced dermatologists. S. Savic, N. Cekic, S. Tamburic, J. Milic, G. Vuleta, The effect of urea from dermo-cosmetic emulsions on skin hydration and its barrier function: a vehicle-controlled study, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P81”. A number of studies have shown that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could improve skin barrier function, despite of its penetration enhancing properties. This controversial skin effect has not been explored systematically in terms of the effect of vehicle on the performance of urea. HK Lee, SY Ahn, JH Bae, SJ Moon, IS Chang, Comparisons of skin characteristics between men and women using non-invasive methods in young healthy Asians, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P84”. Objective: Skin has different properties depending on intrinsic effects such as inherent factors, race, gender, and so on. Besides, it has been known that skin may change because of the environmental stress such as UV, climate and life style. R. Pena Ferreira, P. Costa, F. Bahia, Visioscan VC 98 application: a comparison study between coarse and smooth skin surface, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P91”. The skin is a result of many biochemical and physical factors and these are subject to changes both internally and externally. What is aging? Most of us define aging in terms of the appearance of people H\litlist\studies 12/06 107 in our life experience. Others studying aging mechanisms define aging as a decrease in functional capacity. L. M. Rodrigues, J. Martinsmagro, M. Mouzinho, P. Pinto, M. Almeida, Bioengineered characterisation of the thermal burn injury healing process, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P86”. Full thickness burn injuries may be followed-up through non-invasive bioengineered methodologies. This elegant approach to this complex multi-factorial process allows us to obtain quantitative data involving several variables representing structure and function, providing more objective support to practical management and therapeutical intervention. I. F. Almeida, D. Endo, M. F. Bahia, Moisturizing properties of two oleogels following single application, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P92”. Oleogels are interesting new systems obtained with a hydrophobic liquid. On the last years there were discovered and developed many organogelators that in same cases were able to gelify biocompatible liquids. Their applications were investigated in several areas such as organic chemistry, environmental chemistry and also in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. J. W. Fluhr, J. S. Kao, P. M. Elias, K. R. Feingold, Short-term glucocorticoid treatment compromises both permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity: inhibition of epidermal lipid synthesis accounts for functional abnormalities, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P95”. Prolonged exposure of human stratum corneum to excess endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids (GC) can result in well-recognized cutaneous abnormalities. Here, we determined whether short-term GC treatment would alter two key functions of the skin, permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum (SC) integrity and cohesion, and the basis for these changes. S. Bielefeldt, M. Brandt, A. Gerstenkorn, K. Wilhelm, Capacitance measurement of skin moisture: sophisticated calibration of instruments, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P97”. Absolute values of different instruments designed to measure the skin capacitance are not comparable, even though they all work with the same measurement principle. Even in the same instrument type differences in measurement results are common. P. C. Pinto, R. Minhós, L. M. Pereira, L. Monteiro Rodrigues, Validation of a compartmental model to quantitatively describe transepidermal water loss, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P105”. New computational methods are being applied to analyze data from TEWL experiments mostly using non-linear algorithms. A new strategy involving the application of a compartmental model to TEWL data obtained from a Plastic Occlusion Stress Test (POST) has been used with encouraging results. P. C. Pinto, L. M. Pereira, L. Monteiro Rodrigues, Skin water dynamics: disposition-decomposition analysis (DDA) of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and epidermal capacitance, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P106”. Knowledge about human skin water dynamics seems to represent a growing importance to understand the organ´s normal physiology. Mathematical modelling of (cutaneous water) related variables obtained through skin bioengineering, provided new perspectives to approach this problem. H. S. Oh, M. H. Lee, S. Y. Park, H. C. Kim, New Skin colour analysis technique, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P114”. It is very important aspect in skin color analysis that the objective evaluation of color distribution in same image. But conventional spectrophotometer are able to analysis as average value of region of interest (ROI) not to color distribution analysis. We tried to develop the new skin color analysis technique so as to objective measured skin color distribution as a pixel or ROI using liquid crystal tunable filter (LCTF) and CCD camera (so called Skin Color Distribution Analyser: SCDA). H\litlist\studies 12/06 108 H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Frictiometry on human skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, “Abstract Nr. P116”. The state and function of human skin can be quantified by numerous non-invasive test methods. There are, however, still no valid methods to measure the tactile properties of the skin surface as thus to quantify the state of the skin on the one hand, and to determine the negative and positive effects of tactile influences on the other hand. S.T. Casares, A. Castro de Castro, L.A. Castro Sader, Efectividad de activos naturales para evitar la formacion de la piel de naranja, XVI Congreso latinoamericano e iberico Quimicos Cosmeticos, 15-18. Sept. 2003 La aparicion de la aestetica piel de naranja conjuntamente con la disminucion de la forma, sedosidad, y brillo de la piel de un cuerpo joven, afecta la imagen femenina de tal forma que hoy en dia, se ha transformado en un verdadero problema social y psicologico, padecerla es peor que tener algun mal que genere dolor. A. del Pozo, In vivo screening of surfactant effects on stratum corneum, Association de Pharmacie Galenique Industrielle, Paris 22-23 Oct. 2003 Prolonged or repeated exposure of skin to surfactants used in personal care products or cleaners often results in damage to the stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. Prevention of stratum corneum damage requires careful formulation of such products and suitable screening methods to detect changes in stratum corneum function. Suk-Jin Choi, Min-Gyu Song, Whan-Tae Sung, Dong-Youn Lee, Comparison of TEWL, Capacitance, and pH Values in the Skin between intrinsic and extrinsic atopic dermatitis patients, J Korean Med Sci 2003, 18, 93-6, pp. 93-96. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by an intensely pruritic skin disease with typical distribution and morphology. The age of onset is nearly always within the first 5 yr of life, and lifetime prevalence in children is roughly 10 to 15% in industrialized countries. A. del Pozo, Restitution of cutaneous barrier from o/w bigels emulsifier-free, Association de Pharmacie Galenique Industrielle, Paris 22-23 Oct. 2003 To evaluate the capacity of modifying water retention at cutaneous level (WHC:water holding capacity) of formulation elaborated with Emulfree CBG (INCI: Isostearyl Alcohol and Butylene Glycol Cocoate and Ethylcellulose), a new stabilizer system o/w bigel type emulsifier-free preparations. S. Guehenneux, I. Le Fur, E. Tschachler, Influence of aircraft cabin environment on skin hydration in healthy women, 12 th EADV, 15-18. Oct. 2003, Barcelona Airline passengers often complain about sensations of skin and mucous membrane dryness and discomfort due to the dry atmosphere in aircraft cabins. Moreover, low relative humidity in the aircraft cabin is an unavoidable consequence of pressurization at high altitudes. Despite the fact that very low humidity is routinely encountered, no study of its effects on the skin has been reported in the cabin environment. The aim of our study was to study the changes in skin hydration in healthy women during long distance flights. A.E. Sagiv, Y. Marcus, The connection between in vitro water uptake and in vivo skin moisturization, Skin Research and Technology 2003, 9, 306-311 Adding hydroxyl groups to a consecutive set of polyhydroxyalkanes increases the humectancy of the polyols in vitro. This elevation was found to be linear at low relative humidities (Relative humidity = 31,9% and 37°C). In vivo, moisture was returned to normal within a week in all three groups. However, only glycerol managed to abolish the erythema within 7 days. P-A. Wendling, G. Dell’acqua, Skin biophysical properties of a population living in Valais, Switzerland, Skin Research and Technology 2003, 9, 306-311 H\litlist\studies 12/06 109 On average we observed low values of skin capacitance that identify subjects with dry skin. Measures of skin visco-elasticity ratios were also particulary low, while skin pH and sebum content were in the normal range. Age was correlated with a decrease of skin elasticity and sebum content, but there was no correlation with hydration or pH. T. Yokota, M. Matsumoto, T. Sakamaki, R. Hikima, S. Hayashi, M. Yanagisawa, H. Kuwahara, S. Yamazaki, T. Ogawa, M. Hayase, Classification of sensitive skin and development of a treatment system appropriate for each group, IFSCC Magazine, Oct./Dec. 2003, Vol. 6, No. 4 In order to find an effective approach to improve sensitive skin, it is important to know the detailed mechanism of sensitive skin. In this study, detailed characteristics of sensitive skin were investigated using non-invasive methods. Sensitive skin was classified into three different types based on their particular characteristics. J. Wiechers, S. Swaminathan, The equaliser, SPC Asia, Nov. 2003 In the quest to find the fountain of youth for skin, formulators of personal care products search for ingredients with the potential to change skin back to the way it was when we were young adults. Formulators have yet to find these magic ingredients but in their search they have devised skin-toning materials that go a long way towards biologically changing the skin. E. Kawai, Y. Kohno, K. Ogawa, K. Sakuma, N. Yoshikawa, D. Aso, Can inorganic powders provide any biological benefit in stratum corneum, while residing on skin surface? , Revista SRCC, Vol. 3, Nr. 3/2003 The plasminogen (Plg) activation system plays a role in the process leading to dry skin In this study, we have discovered that a urokinasetype Plg activator (UK), a trigger of thePlg activation system, which was previously believed to work within the epidermis, also exists in stratum corneum (SC). U. Heinrich, H. Tronnier, Johanniskraut-Extrakt zur Pflege der atopischen Haut, Kosmetische Medizin, Ausgabe 3-4/2003, 24. Jahrgang Die Bedeutung einer wirkungsvollen Hautpflege mit subakuter atopischer dermatitis sowie auch Personen mit trockener empfindlicher Haut konnte in Zahlreichen Untersuchungen nachgewiesen werden. Neben einem besseren Hautgefühl können Juckreiz, Rauhigkeit, Rötung und Trockenheit deutlich vermindert werden. Gleichzeitig werden heute die angenehmen galenischen Eigenschaften einer kosmetischen Hautpflege verlangt. I. Le Fur, A. Reinberg, S. Lopez, F. Morizot, M. Mechkouri, E. Tschachler, Facial Skin circadian rhythms of healthy women investigated using non-invasive methods, 22th IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, 23-26 September 2002 The investigation was performed during a weekend, subjects were sampled every 4 hours during a 48h-span making a total of 12 time point measurements. H. Dobrev, L. Zissova, R. Iankova, Study of therapeutic effectiveness of four antidandruff shampoos, 12 th Congress of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology, Oct. 15-18 , 2003, Barcelona, Spain. * Dandruff and scalp seborrhoeic can be successfully treated with shampoos containing different active substances. In patients with dry seborrhoea an increase in scalp lipid level occurs due to the elimination of follicular occlusion and omprovement of sebum delivery. H. Dobrev, Application of Cutometer Area Parameters for Study Human Skin Fatigue, Department of Dermatology and Venereology; Medical University, Plovdiv, Bulgarien. The hallmark of age-related changes of skin mechanical properties is the decrease in its elastic properties (1-2). This results in bigger fatigue of adult skin than young skin after applying multiple stress at one and the same anatmoic region. * M. I. Nogueira de Camargo Harris Propriedades biomecânicas da pele, Pele : estrutura, propriedades e envelhecimento, Editora Senac, Sao Paulo, 2003. H\litlist\studies 12/06 110 A biometrologia cutânea, ramo da ciência que avalia quantitativamente as propriedades biomecânicas da pele, tem encontrado na cosmetologia um importante aliado, pois o apelo mercadologico dos produtos destinados aos cuidados com a pele e com os cabelos tem-se baseado cada vez mais em evidências cientificas e tecnicas sensiveis, precisas e validadas, ao inves de serem fundamentadas em especulacoes. T. Yokota, M. Matsumoto, T. Sakamaki, Classification of Sensitive Skin and Development of a Treatment System Appropriate for Each Group, IFSCC magazine, Vol. 6, Nr. 4, Oct./Dec. 2003. In order to find an effective approach to improve sensitive skin, it is important to know the detailed mechanism of sensitive skin. In this study, detailed characteristics of sensitive skin were investigated using non-invasive methods. Sensitive skin was classified into three different types based on their particular characteristics. Cr. Rodrigues da Silva, A Rain Forest Botanical improves bar soap properties, Happi, Nov. 2003. The Amazon Rain Forest presents incomparable biodiversity, representing approximately 25% of all the plants on earth. Its inhabitants, Indians or natives of the region often referred to as “caboclos”, utilize this diversity to improve their health and beauty. The “traditional use” of these plants is often referenced in the product stories told by cosmetic companies. E. Hernandez Bioengineering in Dermatology and Cosmetology: Methods, Studies and Prospects, SÖFW-Journal, 129. Jahrgang 11-2003. One of the trends in modern dermatology and its perspectives for the near future are skin bioengineering and imaging. The 1 st joint meeting of two scientific societies focusing on measurements and visualisation of skin function, structure and physiology – the International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI) – took place in Hamburg, May 21-24, 2003. Before that, the meetings and conferences organised by these societies had been held separately. R. Estanislao, M. Suero, C. Galzote, Dr. A. Khaiat In-vivo Evaluation of Skin Viscoelasticity and Anisotropy Using Reviscometer® RVM 600, Johnson & Johnson (Philippines) Inc. A prototype of a new instrument, Reviscometer® RVM 600 from Courage + Khazaka (Cologne, Germany) was proven to measure in-vivo skin viscoelasticity and anisotropy. The measurement of the instrument based on the speed of acoustical shock wave propagation in the skin done in different directions allowed evaluation of skin firmness and directional variations in viscoelasticity. H. P. Dobrev Mechanical Properties in Other Dermatological Diseases, Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 19, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach, Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA. Human Skin, as a complex multi-layered organ, has three major mechanical properties: Stiffness, i.e., resistance to change of shape; elasticity, i.e., ability to recover the initial shape after deformation; Viscoelasticity, i.e., time-dependent deformation with a “creep” phenomenon and nonlinear stress- strain properties with “hysteresis”. These properties are altered in dermatological diseases, which are accompanied with pathological induration or softening of the skin. Noninvasive bioengineering measurements allow quantifying the alterations of skin mechanics in vivo. R. Randall Wickett Standardization of Skin Biomechanical Measurements, Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 15, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach, Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA. Standardization of measurement methods has been a goal of many researchers working on noninvasive measurement of skin function. For example, Pierard stated, “optimization of noninvasive biophysical measurements should benefit from strict standardization of measurements and frequent calibration of devices.” While no absolute standards for skin measurements have been published, helpful guidelines have been published for measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the electrical properties of skin for assessment of skin hydration. H\litlist\studies 12/06 111 U. Berndt, P. Elsner Hardware and Measuring Principle: The Cutometer®, Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 07, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach, Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA. The biomechanical properties of human skin are a complex combination of elastic and viscous components. Elasticity correlates with the function of elastin fibers; viscosity is controlled by the collagen fibers and the surrounding intercellular ground substance, which consists primarily of water and proteoglycans. The cutometer allows the measurement of the viscoelastic properties of the skin in vivo, which provides valuable information on physiological and pathological changes of human dermis as well as on the efficacy of topical treatments. It is recognized as a standard tool in dermatological and cosmetic research. A. O. Barel Product Testing: Moisturizers, Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 21, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach, Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA. The presence of an adequate amount of water in the stratum corneum is important for maintaining the following properties of the skin: general appearance of a soft, smooth, flexible, and healthy-looking skin; and an intact barrier function allowing a slow rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) under dry external conditions, which are frequently encountered. M. Gloor, B. Wasik, J.W. Fluhr, Cleansing, dehydrating, barrier-damaging and irritating hyperaemising effect of four detergent brands: comparative studies using standardised washing models, Skin Research and Technology 2004; 10: 1-9. Background and problem: It is well known that the damaging effect of surfactants on the stratum corneum varies according to the surfactant used. The present investigations aim to compare four standard commercial cleansing solutions (Esemptan® Cleansing Lotion, Stephalen® Shower Gel, Manipur® Antimicrobial Cleansing Solution and Tork® Mevon55™ Liquid Soap) with respect to their cleansing and skin barrier-damaging effects. A.W. Johnson Scientific Posters pres. by Unilever Research & Development, Unilever Home & Personal Care, American Academy of Dermatology, Washington D.C., Feb. 6-11, 2004. Dear AAD Participant, Unilever Research & Development is pleased to provide you with the enclosed reprints of posters presented at this 62 nd Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology. The posters reflect the accomplishments of our many specialist scientists – including biochemists, spectroscopists, chemists, computational and structural biologists, and clinical investigators – each committed to extending the excellence in skin care research that Unilever has pursued for many decades. I. Arsic, S. Tamburic, S. Savic The Effect of Chamomile Extract on Skin Hydration and Tewl: Is it more effective when encapsulated in Liposomes?, Euro Cosmetics, Ausgabe 2-2004, S.12-17. The aim of this study was to investigate whether the extract of chamomile (Chamomilla recutita, (L) Rausch, Asteraceae) increases skin hydration level and its barrier properties when used in an O/W cream. In addition, it was of interest to find out whether the encapsulation of chamomile extract in liposomes affects its skin functionality. S. Amari, Cr. Schubert From Olive Oil an Innovative O/W Peg-free emulsifier: OLIVEM 1000, Euro Cosmetics, Ausgabe 2-2004, S. 18-22. Olive Oil is the one of the lipids showing the highest compatibility with our skin. Olive Oil in fact is a precious vegetable oil as it has got a high similarity to human skin lipids. The sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands works through an important activity: to protect the skin against the environment and to reduce the Trans-Epidermal-Water Loss. PCIA, Guangzhou/ China: Conference Proceedings, Step Exhibition Ltd., Kent, UK. H\litlist\studies 12/06 112 This CD-Rom contains a number of interesting articles about the usage of different, cosmetological applicants (like applying special, new designed facial colour products, special natural products etc.). The effect on skin is investigated, such as sebum or melanin. Prof. Dr. med. H. Tronnier, PD Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Beautytek-Studie: Gutachten über einen Wirksamkeitsnachweis einer kosmetischen Behandlung, Dermatronnier, Institut für experimentelle Dermatologie i. A. für medilab GmbH & Co., Würzburg, Mai 2004. Unter Bezugnahme auf unseren Forschungsauftrag 19/2/04 vom 20.02.2004 sowie unter Bezugnahme auf Ihr Schreiben vom 29.09.2003 erstatten wir Ihnen nachfolgend ein Gutachten über einen Wirksamkeitsnachweis einer kosmetischen Behandlung. * Institut u. Poliklinik für Arbeits-, -Sozial- und Umweltmedizin der Univers. Erlangen-Nürnberg, Hautbelastung, Hautbeanspruchung und Hautschutzverhalten bei Krankenpfelgeschüler(inne)n, Prof. Dr. med. H. Drexler. Fragestellung: Wie hoch ist die Inzidenz beruflich verursachter Dermatosen unter Berücksichtigung von Risikofaktoren, Exposition und Hautschutzverhalten bei Berufsanfängern in der Krankenpflege? Welche Parameter sind geeignet, die berufliche Belastung zu objektivieren? J. W. Arbogast, E. J. Fendler, B. S. Hammond, Effectiveness of a Hand Care Regimen with Moisturizer in Manufacturing Facilities Where Workers Are Prone to Occupational Irritant Dermatitis, Dermatitis, Vol. 15, No 1 (March), 2004: pp 10-17. Background: Limited information documents the prevention and treatment benefits of a hand care regimen using moisturizer in a controlled manner for employees in typical manufacturing situations. Objective: The objective was to assess the effectiveness of a comprehensive skin care program including skin conditioning lotion in multiple manufacturing environments where employees are at high risk for skin disease. R. von Pelchrzim, St. Soost, M. Worm, Klinischer Hautzustand bei Beschäftigten im Gesundheitswesen und der Einfluß von Präventionsmaßnahmen, Dermatologie in Beruf und Umwelt, Jahrgang 52, Nr. 1/2004, S. 26-32. Mitarbeiter des Gesundheitswesens sind aufgrund der häufig durchzuführenden Feucht- und Naßarbeiten besonders gefährdet, toxisch-irritative Handekzeme zu entwickeln. Durch geeignete Hautschutz- und pflegepräparate können die körpereigenen Reparaturmechanismen unterstützt werden. In einer prospektiven Untersuchung wurden der klinische Hautzustand und die hautphysiologischen Parameter bei Mitarbeitern des Pflegepersonals von Intensivstationen (IS) und Normalstationen (NS) überprüft. J.E. Arrese, P. Quatresooz, P. Pierard- Franchisment, et. al., Indications diagnostiques de la biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate, Dermatologie Aktualité, No. 83, June-July 2004 La biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate consiste à prélever la partie superficielle de la couche cornée. La méthode est non invasive et habituellement indolore. Elle peut être répetitive au même site. Dans le domaine de la dermatologie clinique, les indications de ce type de prélèvement sont multiples. Elles concernent principalement le diagnostic des dermatites inflammatoires sqameuses, des infections et parasitoses superficielles, ainsi que des tumeurs pigmentaires. P. M. van Kemenade, M. M. J. Houben, J. M. Huyghe, Do osmotic forces play a role in the uptake of water by human skin?, Skin Research and Technology 2004 10, 109-112. Background/Purpose: To describe the water and ion transport through the skin under different conditions, we developed a three-component mixture model. This model has proven to describe the transient change in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after a change in relative humidity and the result of damage to the skin. K. Matsumoto, K. Mizukoshi, M. Oyobikawa, Establishment of an atopic dermatitis-like skin model in a hairless mouse by repeated elicitation of contact hypersensitivity that enables to conduct H\litlist\studies 12/06 113 functional analyses of the stratum corneum with various non-invasive biophysical instruments, Skin Research and Technology 2004, 10, 122-129. Pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) has been studied in animal models such as the NC/Nga mouse strain or Balb/C mice that are repeatedly treated with 2,4,6-trinitro-1-chrolobenzene (TNCB). These mice exhibit features of chronic contact dermatitis, including an intensified early type skin reaction, increased number of mast cells and elevated serum IgE levels with a shift of cutaneous cytokine expression from a type 1 to type 2 profile. H. Dobrev (Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Med. Uni. Plovdiv, Bulgaria), Impact Of Three Different Emulsions On Skin Hydration And Elasticity. The well-hydrated skin is smooth, soft and elastic. Therefore, the restoration and maintenance of skin water content is the main goal of skin care products. Currently, two kind of moisturizers are used [1, 2]: Emollients (lipids), which reduce the loss of water from the skin by simple occlusion of its surface and by improvement of water-holding capacity of stratum corneum in result of restoration of the lipid layers around the corneocytes. Humectants (urea, glycerin, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid), which bind or attract water in or to the corneal layer. H. Tronnier, B. Garbe, M. Herling, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Nicht-invasive Testverfahren an der Kopfhaut, Ästhetische Dermatologie, 2 2004, S. 30-37. Zum Nachweis vorliegender Hautzustände oder Funktionen sowie ihrer Änderungen unter dem Einfluss interner Faktoren oder externer Maßnahmen im positiven (zum Beispiel Wirksamkeit) oder negativen Sinn (zum Beispiel Verträglichkeit) gibt es zahlreiche nicht-invasive Testmethoden. Sie können zum großen Teil modifiziert oder mit Vorbehandlung (zum Beispiel Rasur) auch an der behaarten Kopfhaut eingesetzt werden. M. Fröschle, R. Plüss, K. Bojarski, A. Peter, Antiaging Effect with Cosmotropic Substances, SÖFW-Journal, 130, 4 2004, S. 36-43. Water is one of the most important and limiting factors for plants, animals and humans. The human being consists of 60-65% water and loses daily up to several liters through the skin. The regulation of water content is therefore very significant. Plants especially have developed fascinating physiological and structural strategies to minimize water loss and survive periods of dryness. Hristo Dobrev, Comparative Study Of The Mechanical Properties In Erysipelas Of The Lower Legs Using Suction Method And Share Wave Propagation Method, EADV Plovdiv Bulgaria, 13 th Congress “The Renaissance Of Dermatology”, Florence 2004. Inflammatory dermal edema in erysipelas alters skin mechanics. The aim of this study was to compare the informativeness of two different methods for evaluation of skin mechanical properties. Hristo Dobrev, Application Of Cutometer Area Parameters For Study Human Skin Fatigue, Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Med. Uni. Plovdiv, Bulgaria. The hallmark of age-related changes of skin mechanical properties is the decrease in its elastic properties [1-2]. This results in bigger fatigue of adult skin than young skin after applying multiple stress at one and the same anatomic region. Skin fatigue can successfully be evaluated with a suction skin elasticity meter (Cutometer) using measurements with several repetitions of the measuring cycle [3]. Piérard-Franchimont, O. Martalo, A. Richard, A. Rougier, Sebum rheology evaluated by two methods in vivo. Split-face study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation, European Journal of Dermatology, Volume 9, Number 6, 455-457, 1999, Revues. Modulation of the rheological characteristics of sebum at the surface of the skin might represent a valuable strategy for the treatment of seborrhea. In this field, only a small number of studies have addressed sebum diffusion within the stratum corneum. H\litlist\studies 12/06 114 Chris Packham (EnviroDerm Services), Damage to health from dermal exposure, Facilities Manager 2004 (Health and Safety), pages 1-2. Although there are no reliable statistics about the extent of damage to health from workplace dermal exposure, there is no doubt that such exposure is a major contributor to the high level of occupational ill health that still occurs in most industrial countries. R. Marks, Seeing Through the Stratum Corneum, study on the new Biopsie method Biokit®, Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany. The stratum corneum (SC) provides a vital barrier membrane dividing the potentially injurious external environment from the vulnerable and metabolically constant internal tissues of the skin. It impedes the flow of water across the skin restricting the normal loss of water to 0.5l/day – the so called normal transepidermal water loss (TEWL). M. Gloor, B. Senger, M. Langenauer, J. W. Fluhr, On the course of the irritant reaction after irritation with sodium lauryl sulphate, Skin Reserach and Technology 2004, 10, 144-148. The sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) irritation test is a well-established model for irritant contact dermatitis after the effects of surfactants. The course of changes in corneometric measurements (stratum corneum hydration), in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), in laser Doppler measurements (epidermal perfusion) and in colorimetric measurements (skin redness), after a single SLS irritation, should be studied over time. “Symposium Medical – Für sie referiert”, Hautzustandsmessung als Präventionshilfe am Arbeitsplatz, Symposium Medical 2004, S. 22. Während Augen, Ohren, Lunge und andere Organe, die am Arbeitsplatz Schadstoffen oder Belastungen ausgesetzt werden, in der Arbeitsmedizin schon seit vielen Jahren überwacht und gemessen werden, wird die Haut, die mit ca. 1,8 m² das größte menschliche Organ darstellt, vielfach außer Acht gelassen oder maximal visuell überprüft. P. Gasser, L. Peno-Mazzarino, E. Lati, B. Djian, Original semiologic standardized evaluation of stratum corneum hydration by Diagnoskin® stripping sample, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2004, 26, 117-127. Synopsis: In a normal and healthy skin, the regular elimination of the superficial corneocytes, called desquamation, is a fundamental physiologic process intended to protect the barrier function of the skin. This invisible loss of corneocytes, individually or in small groups, is incessantly compensated by the divisions of the proliferative layer and the upward cellular maturation in order to maintain the harmonious renewal of the epidermis and the integrity of the stratum corneum. J. W. Fluhr, J. Ennen, Standardized washing models: facts and requirements, Skin Research and Technology, 2004, 10, 141-143. Regular skin cleansing with washing substances has medical, cosmetic, hygienic and socio-cultural functions. In western cultures, the hygienic and cosmetic aspects prevail. The aim of a washing process is to remove or reduce dust particles, microorganisms and odorous substances. The resident skin flora in a washing process can be reduced significantly. The antiseptic effect of washing is gained independently from the function of tensides, through the removal of dust and dandruff material from the skin and hence through a reduction of growth medium for bacteria. Ingrid Nicander, Stig Ollmar, Clinically normal atopic skin vs. non-atopic skin as seen through electrical impedance, , Skin Reserach and Technology 2004, 10, 178-183. In an earlier study, we have shown that the electrical impedance (IMP) is dependent on the lipid content of the stratum corneum as studied by lipid extraction. Therefore, we now employ the IMP technique to compare the properties of clinically normal atopic skin with that of non-atopic skin. J.-L. Lévêque, E. Goubanova, Influence of Age on the Lips and Perioral Skin, Dermatology, 2004, 208, pp 307-313. H\litlist\studies 12/06 115 There are few objective descriptions of the age-related changes taking place on the lips and perioral skin. This zone, however, has great importance in relational functions. Objectives: To describe quantitatively the age-related changes in dimensions of the lips and the appearance of the perioral wrinkles, to revisit, thanks to a new method, the pattern of the lip furrows, to compare the hydration states of the upper and lower lips. * P. J. Dykes, R. Marks, Unfolding or True Extension? The Mechanism and Importance of Stratum Corneum Compliance, Stratum Corneum IV, Paris, 17.-19. Juni 2004. -1y, 2y and 3y skin surface lines -Role in stratum corneum compliance - What happens to these lines on deformation (see pictures included) - Stretched stratum corneum (see picture) etc. H. Ranc, A. Elkhyat, C. Servais, B. Launay, Ph. Humbert, Coefficient de friction et mouillabilité de la muqueuse linguale : influence d’une couche de mucus salivaire, Nestlé Research Center, Nestec Ltd. P.O. Box 44, 1026 Lausanne, Suisse. Les aliments, une fois en bouche, sont cisaillés et comprimés entre la langue et des surfaces telles que les dents et le palais. La tribologie appliquée aux surfaces interagissant en bouche devrait permettre d`expliquer certains phénomènes physio-chimique qui régissent la perception orale de la structure des aliments. I. Van Reeth, M. Moré, R. Hickerson, New Formulating Options with Silicone Emulsifiers, Euro Cosmetics 6, Juni 2004, 12. Jahrgang, Vol. Nr. 12. In today´s highly competitive skin care and underarm markets, multifunctional, high performance products have the best chance of success. Consumers expect convenience and superior aesthetics. They want long-lasting, highly efficient moisturizers; effective antiaging and anti-wrinkle creams; durable, wash-off resistant, protective color cosmetics; and underarm products that go on smoothly, without tackiness or residue. Dr. Hans Lautenschläger, Individuell den Sonnenschutz messen, Kosmetik International, Vol. 8, 2004. Die Sonne aktiviert unseren Stoffwechsel und fördert unser Wohlbefinden (siehe Ki 7/04, S. 77). Allein die richtige Dosis entscheidet über die heilende oder schädigende Wirkung. Ein Übermaß an Sonnenlicht führt zu Sonnenbrand und kann bei langfristiger Lichtschädigung das Risiko für Hautkrebs erhöhen. Die Abnahme der Ozonschicht wird für den deutlichen Anstieg von Hautkrankheiten, Hautkrebs und Allergien der Atemwege verantwortlich gemacht. Dr. M. Fröschle, Dr. R. Plüss, A. Peter, F. Etzweiler, Phytosteroids for skin care, Personal Care, Vol. Sept. 2004. Healthy skin is a largely self-regulating system. In order to keep metabolic processes functioning efficiently, the relevant biological precursors and activators must be available to the skin cells for metabolism. If, due to age-related changes, the body no longer provides a sufficient amount of certain substances, an additional external supplement can proactively support the biological processes and thus counteract the advance of the ageing process. Sujong Kim, Byung Young Kang, Si Yong Cho, Dae Suk Sung, 20-O-ß-D-Glucopyranosyl-20 (S)- Protopanaxadiol (Compound K) induces expression of Hyaluronan Synthase 2 Gene in transformed human Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts and increases Hyaluronan in Hairless mouse skin, IFSCC Magazine, vol. 7, No. 3, 2004. Ginsenosides, the major active ingredients of ginseng, show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation and anti-inflammatory activities. To understand the effects of 20-O-ß-D- glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K) – one of the major metabolites of ginsenosides – on the skin, we assessed the expression level of approximately 100 transcripts in compound K- treated HaCaT cells using cDNA microarray analysis. H\litlist\studies 12/06 116 Chris Packham, You need hands: protecting your hands from the working environment. Health & Safety International, October 2004. In our daily life our hands will be exposed to many different hazards. Some of these will occur, or mainly, at work, some in the home or in our hobbies or free time activities. In principle we can divide these hazards into two main groups: physical and chemical. P. Landa, F. Lam, I. Morosov, R. Rothman, D. Howard, A. Gestmann, Glycerin and Hydroxyethyl Urea: Comparing Two Skin Moisturizers, Cosmetic & Toiletries, Vol. 119, No. 10, Oct. 2004. Glycerin is widely considered to be the industry bench mark for skin moisturization. It has been demonstrated by numerous methods to be an effective moisturizer when used at levels above 3%, although the choice of vehicle can influence performance. F.H.W. Jungbauer, J. J. van der Harst, J. W. Groothoff, P. J. Coenraads, Skin protection in nursing work: promoting the use of gloves and hand alcohol, Contact Dermatitis 51, pp. 153-140, 2004. Nursing has been indentified as a wet-work occupation, with a high prevalence of occupational irritant contact dermatitis. Reduction of exposure to skin irritants contributes to the prevention of occupational skin disease in nurses. The role of the use of soap and water, hand alcohol and gloves in prevention programmes is discussed. L. M. Rodrigues, P. C. Pinto, J. M. Magro, M. Fernandes, J. Alves, Exploring the influence of skin perfusion on transepidermal water loss, Skin Research and Technology 10, pp. 257-262, 2004. Eventual relationships between the vascular function and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), in vivo, have not been entirely explored. By promoting local perfusion alterations through a well-known challenge test, the “tourniquet-cuff occlusion” manoeuvre, the present study searches for other dynamical factors influencing the cutaneous barrier, further exploring the applicability of these flow- related variables in dermatological research. A. Elkhyat, C. Courderot-Masuyer, S. Mac-Mary, S. Courau, T. Gharbi, Ph. Humbert, Assessment of spray application of Saint GERVAIS water effects on skin wettability by contact angle measurement comparison with bidistilled water, Skin Research and Technology 10, pp. 283-286, 2004. The skin is responsible for protecting the body from physical, chemical and microbial injuries. The stratum corneum is the top layer of the epidermis and it plays a key role in helping to contain moisture. When the skin becomes damaged, it’s ability to perform these functions is compromised. Dry skin is a common form of skin damage. Contact angle 0 between a surface and water is a good indicator of hydrophobic or hydrophilic tendency of surfaces. I. Angelova-Fischer, I. Petrov, P. Elsner, J.W. Fluhr, T. L. Diepgen, The objective severity assessment of atopic dermatitis (OSAAD) score: interobserver variability with reference to the SCORAD score (abstract), Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004. The need for reliable and reproducible measures for assessment of atopic dermatitis severity has resulted in the development of numerous scores most of which have not been adequately tested in terms of validity, reliability, responsiveness to change and acceptability. The SCORAD index of the European Task Force on Atopic Dermatitis has been considered the standard outcome measure in clinical trials in the last decade. H. Lambers, S. Piessens, A. Bloem, H. Pronk, P. Finkel, E. Voss, Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora (abstract), Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004. The acidic surface pH as well as the pH gradient over the gradient over the stratum corneum (SC) are important for a good skin condition, supporting optimal structure and function of the lipid barrier and SC homeostasis. M. Visscher, J. Smith, R. Wickett, S. Hoath, Effect of hand hygiene regimens on stratum corneum integrity and function (abstract), Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004. H\litlist\studies 12/06 117 A national patient safety goal for 2004 is to reduce the risk of healthcare-acquired infections. To achieve this goal, the organizations have been directed to comply with the hand hygiene guideline issued in 2002 by the Centers for Disease Control (CDC). It developed to reduce the transmission of microorganisms to patients and health care workers (HCW). F. M. Hendriks, D. Brokken, C.W. J. Oomens, F. P. T. Baaijens, Influence of hydration and experimental length scale on the mechanical response of human skin in vivo, using optical coherence tomography, Skin Research and Technology 10, pp. 231-241, 2004. Human skin is a complex tissue consisting of different layers. To gain better insight into the mechanical response was studied with experiments of various length scales. Also, the influence of (superficial) hydration on the mechanical response is studied. V. Nikolai, K. Quecke, Beobachtungen zur Feuchtigkeitsregulation am Pferdehuf mittels TEWL- Messung, Der praktische Tierarzt 85, Heft 11, S. 816-819, 2004. Die Hornqualität des Pferdehufes wird sowohl in Fachkreisen als auch von Laien oftmals anhand des Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes des Hornes beurteilt. Aussagekräftige Messungen des tatsächlichen Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes liegen jedoch noch nicht vor. Vielmehr wird lediglich eine grobsinnliche Beurteilung des Hufhornes durchgeführt. Unter Einsatz eines aus der Humandermatologie stammenden Gerätes zur Bestimmung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes wurde eine praktikable Methode zur indirekten Erfassung des Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes von Hufhorn erprobt. John J. Wille, Corneotherapy: skin hydration and occlusivity of some commercial skin moisturizers and skin protectants, Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004. Corneotherapy is defined here as a topical treatment that improves the condition of the stratum corneum. In this respect, cosmetic and dermatological vehicles play an important role independent of their capacity to deliver drugs or cosmetic actives, in formulating an optimal topical treatment for skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis. N. Barai, M. Visscher, A. LaRuffa, V. Narendan, St. Hoath, Vernix caseosa treatment for epidermal barrier repair, Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004. The very low birth weight (VLBW) preterm infant lacks vernix caseosa (VC), has an incompetent stratum corneum (SC) barrier, and is predisposed to high water loss. Treatment with non-physiologic creams (e.g., petrolatum, oils) have been associated with increased nosocomial infection and delayed barrier repair. S. Savic, S. Tamburic, M. Savic, N. Cekic, J. Milic, G. Valuta, Vehicle-controlled effect of urea on normal and SLS-irritated skin, International Journal of Pharmaceutics, Okt. 2004. It is known that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could improve skin barrier function, despite its penetration-enhancing properties. This controversial skin effect of urea has been explored systematically in this study in terms of the effect of vehicle on the performance of urea. In the first part, a series of four semi-solid emulsions with 5% (w/w) urea, varying in the type of emulsion, nature of emulsifier and polarity of oil ingredients, have been evaluated with regard to their skin hydrating and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)-modifying properties. N. Piccardi, Jean-Chr. Choulot, M. Philippe, Butyl avocadate : Managing Hyper-Seborrhoea, Personal Care, November 2004. Hyper-seborrhoea, acne and alopecia are among the most common diseases encountered by dermatologists in daily practice. These pathologies are in part related to the hyper-activity of the 5- alpha reductase (5-αR), the enzyme that metabolises (Fig. 1) testosterone into 5α-dihydrotestosterone (5α-DHT), a major potent androgen in human skin. P. Quatresooz, L. Petit, I. Uhoda, C. Pierard-Franchimont, G. E. Pierard, Mosaic subclinical melanoderma : An Achilles heel for UV-related epidermal carcinogenesis. International Journal of Oncology 25: 1763-1767, 2004. H\litlist\studies 12/06 118 Cutaneous cancers are not uncommon on the face of elderly patients. Melanin should protect, at least in part, against the ultraviolet (UV)-induced neoplastic damage. However, the density in melanin chromatophores is heterogenous in the epidermis of Caucasian adults. The computerized UV light- enhanced visualization (ULEV) method is a sensitive tool to assess non-invasively this mosaic pattern of intra-epidermal melanin load. K. Wanatabe, M. Masuda, K. Nakamura, T. Inaba, T. Yanagida, T. Yanaki, A. Noda, A new makeup remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of silicone oil and water, IFSCC Magazine, vol. 7, No. 4, Oct.-Dec. 2004. Removing makeup is considered to be the first step in the skincare process. Makeup that has served its purpose is a kind of impurity that should ideally be removed completely to maximize the effects of skincare products applied afterwards. However, the use of silicone resins has significantly improved the long-lasting property of makeup with the result that makeup can hardly be removed efficiently either with surfactant-type cleansers like soaps or with oil-based cleansers like liquid crystalline cleansers. G. Guglielmini, M. Cucchiara, Cosmetic treatment for heavy legs, Research and development Laboratories, Pero, Italien, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004. Heavy legs is a really widespread problem. It hits the 50% of the adults of more than 50 years old, with a with a prevalence for female sex, interested 4 times more than the male one. Subjects perceive some symptoms associated to a sense of tiredness and to a sensation of pain for lower limbs… S. L. Zhang, C. L. Meyers, K. Subramanyan, Near-infrared imaging: a better approach to measure and visualize skin hydration and to assess the mildness of skin cleansers, Unilever Research and Development, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004. Optimal hydration is one of the key factors for effective functioning of the stratum corneum. The state of skin hydration has been typically assessed through instrumental methods that depend on the correlation of skin hydration with the electrical conductance and capacitance responses of the skin. H. Shibayama, H. Indo, K. Ueda, K. Yoshio, Y. Kook Choi, Y. Ishigami, New Derivertives of Supiculisporic acid as biosurfactants and application for cosmetics, Central Research Center, Tokyo Beauty, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004. It is well known that some microorganisms produce surface-active substances on cultural conditions. Recently, people in bio-industry pay attention is to the production of surfactants from saccharides or hydrocarbons using microorganisms in large quantity and at reasonable prices. F. Périn, D. de Quéral, G. Georgesco, Age-related biomechanical properties of the normal human skin: comparison of clinical and instrumental evaluations, Spincontrol Asia, Thailand, Laboratoire R&D LVMH , Frankreich, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004. Ageing and photoageing induce a degradation of the biomechanical properties of the skin. These biomechanical properties can be expressed in term in elasticity, tonicity, firmness, suppleness, stiffness and laxity through clinical evaluation. We conducted a study in order to identify correlations between these clinical terms and the parameters given by commercial devices dedicated to skin biomechanical measurements. Bertin, T. Oddos, A. Robert, H. Zunino, Anti-aging efficacy of the combination of dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) and mineral salts, Johnson and Johnson Consumer Europe, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004. DMAE is currently used in cosmetic products to obtain lifting and firming effects. In in vitro studies, DMAE was shown to enhance fibroblast proliferation. The objective of the in vitro studies performed was to demonstrate an increase of the efficacy of the product when DMAE was associated to mineral salts (mixture containing 5% of magnesium aspartate, 5% of zinc gluconate and 0,5% of copper acetate). A clinical study was then performed to assess the efficacy of the complete product (DMAE + mineral salts) in comparison with a placebo. H\litlist\studies 12/06 119 Manoj Kumar, Biotechnology for Personal Care: A Case Study of Silk-Elastin Protein Polymer, Biochemistry Department, USA, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004. Designer Proteins are in need as active ingredients to perform a variety of functions and to impart desired characteristics to personal care product formulations. Advances in genetic engineering offer a unique opportunity to design specific, targeted properties, and production of consistent fermentation based protein polymers with desired properties that are important to provide specific benefits. J. C. Leverett, J. Gour, J. Mayne, Immunofluorescent Imaging Of Dermal Proteins Using Laser Scanning Confocal Microscopy, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings. More powerful tools are needed in order to develop the next generation of functional cosmetics. Today´s highly evolving field demands a greater understanding of the root causes of actinic and age related damage that until recently were seen as merely surface phenomenon. By understanding these causes, better solutions can be discovered which will produce a more profound effect for the consumer. G. Vielhaber, J. Ley, O. Koch, N-Palmityl-4-Hydroxy-L-Proline Palmityl Ester: A Ceramide Analogue that provides efficient skin barrier repair, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings. The epidermal permeability barrier protects the skin against uncontrolled water loss and environmental damage. It is located in the horny layer and consists of a compact lipid matrix of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol embedded between the corneocytes. H. Nishimura, Y. Takasuka, M. Yamamoto, Optical Properties of Skin Gloss and Development of “Mizumizushii” – Looking Makeup Foundation, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings. Modern makeup formulations are becoming ever more complex and diversified. Although sunscreens and moisturizers are often added for better skin protection, the primary function for foundation makeup remains making the skin appear beautiful. Boyce M. Morrison, M. Paye, V. Charbonnier, H. I. Maibach, The Effect Of Surfactants On Skin As Measured By Squamometry : A Sensitive Way To Observe Sub-Clinical Irritant Dermatitis, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings. In order to define the early parameters of surfactant induced skin dryness, an exaggerated hand washing model has been chosen to assess the effects of three surfactants, SLS, SLES, and AOS on stratum corneum function as measured visually, instrumentally, and through Squamometry. These three surfactant solutions were compared to their water controls. R. Marks, G. Khazaka, Diagnostik an der Grenzfläche: Hinweise zur Hautoberflächenbiopsie, 16. DGK-Symposium 2004, Köln, Posterpresentation. Das Stratum Corneum (SC) blieb bis heute von den Dermatologen und Hautbiologen nahezu unbeachtet. Diese mangelnde Aufmerksamkeit besteht weiter, obwohl mittlerweile erkannt wurde, dass die Struktur eine lebenswichtige Rolle in der Aufrechterhaltung einer konstanten, inneren physiologischen Umgebung spielt. S. L. Hester, Chr. A. Rees, R. A. Kennis, D. L. Zoran, Evaluation of Corneometry (Skin Hydration) and Transepidermal Water-Loss Measurements in two canine breeds, 2004 , The American Society for Nutritional Sciences J. Nutr. 134:2110S, August 2004. Mammalian skin is a highly dynamic organ that is constantly adapting to changes in its environment. It provides structural, sensory, immunologic, and physiologic functions and contributes an essential barrier function against potential environmental insults. Product of the month, Frictiometer® FR 770, SÖFW Journal April 2005. H\litlist\studies 12/06 120 The Frictiometer® FR 770 is integrated into the CK Multiprobe Adapter System MPA and supplies another non-invasive test method for the human skin. Measurement of the smoothness condition of the skin. A. Bornkessel, M. Flach, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, J. W. Fluhr, Functional assessment of a washing emulsion for sensitive skin: mild impairment of stratum corneum hydration..., Skin Research and Technology, 2005-11, May, pp. 53-60. Sensitive skin has been described as a skin type with higher reactivity than normal skin and exaggerated reactions to external irritants. Washing with soaps is harmful for barrier-related parameters. H. Arimoto, M. Egawa, Y. Yamada, Depth profile of diffuse reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy for measurement of water content in skin, Skin Research and Technology, 2005-11, May, pp.27-35. The penetration depth of light in diffuse reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy for measuring water content in skin is assessed both from theoretical and experimental points of view. Near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy provides information on such aspects as constituents concentration. K. O´goshi, J. Serup, Inter-instrumental variation of skin capacitance measured with the Corneometer®, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 107-109. * Commercially available measuring devices that allow for the quantitative evaluation of the stratum corneum (SC) function and provide continuous data are an important advance in experimental dermatology. The measurement of skin surface hydration state has gained considerable interest in recent years because the water content of the SC influences various physical characteristics of the skin such as barrier function, drug penetration, and mechanical properties. G. Korinth, Th. Göen, H. M. Koch, Th. Merz, W. Uter, Visible and subclinical skin changes in male and female dispatch department workers of newspaper printing plants, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 132-139. * Irritant hand dermatitis is one of the major occupational diseases. Approximately 90% of all cases of hand eczema are caused by occupational exposure. It is a well-established fact that wet work and skin exposure to detergents or solvents often trigger irritant contact dermatitis. Even water can be a skin irritant itself. H. Dobrev, Application of Cutometer area parameters for the study of human skin fatigue, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 120-122. The hallmark of age-related changes of skin mechanical properties is the decrease in its elastic properties. This results in larger fatigue of adult skin than young skin after applying multiple stress at one and the same anatomic region. I. Arsic, S. Tamburic, S. Bulatovic, I. Homsek, G. Vuleta, Exploring moisturising potential of naturals: The cases of St. John´s wort, chamomile and blackthorn, Euro Cosmetics 3-2005, pp. 14-21. The application of plant extracts in cosmetics and toiletries has been a distinct trend over the last decade and, given consumers´ interests in naturals, will probably continue. Both cosmetic and dermatological practices have benefited from the use of new and re-discovered plants, as well as plant biotechnology extracts. K. De Paepe, E. Houben, R. Adam, F. Wiesemann, V. Rogiers, Validation of the VapoMeter, a closed unventilated chamber system to assess transepidermal water loss vs. the open chamber Tewameter®, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 61-69. The Stratum Corneum (SC) – the uppermost layer of the epidermis – contains the barrier function of the skin. Besides the proteinaceous hydrophilic corneocytes, this barrier consists of lipid-rich hydrophobic intercellular bilayers. H\litlist\studies 12/06 121 F. Tokumura, K. Umekaga, M. Sado, S. Otsuka, S. Suda, M. Taniguchi, Skin irritation due to repetitive application of adesive tape: the influence of adhesive strength and seasonal variability, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 102-106. * Medical pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes are applied to human skin in one of two ways, depending on their indication for use. Either they are replaced and applied on the same site every day, as is the case with traditional sticking plasters and surgical tapes, or they are pressed on to and remain on the skin for a few days when used at the site of the transdermal delivery of drugs. R. Marks, Diagnostic Clues At The Interface, Poster presentation, DGK Symposium Leipzig, 02.- 04.03.2005. The stratum corneum (SC) has been comparatively ignored by dermatologists and skin biologists. This lack of attention still persists despite the recognition that the structure plays a vital role in maintaining the constancy of the internal physiological environment. It is the barrier properties that give the SC its central role in skin physiology. C. Piérard-Franchimont, V. Goffin, G. E. Piérard, Indaguer la couche corneé. Biométrologie par la biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate, Dermatologie Actualité, 87, pp. 23-26, 2005. La biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate est un outil diagnostique précieux (1-3). Elle trouve aussi son utilité en dermatologie expérimentale, lorsque la couche cornée exprime certaines propriétés quantifiables (4). Nous rapportons ici un bref synopsis des méthodes qui ont vu le jour ces 20 dernières années. G. E. Piérard, Cyanoacrylate biopsy for cytologic evaluation of the epidermis, Department of Dermatopathology, University Hospital Sart Tilman, Liège, Belgien. Cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS) is a time-honoured method. After its clever discovery, it was soon applied for diagnostic purposes. Sampling on polyethylene slide was a decisive improvement in the development of this method. R. Debowska, K. Rogiewicz, T. Iwanenko, I. Eris, Folic Acid (Folacin) – New Application of a Cosmetic Ingredient, Kosmetische Medizin 3/2005, pp. 16-22. * Many years of trials and research tests proved that a lot of well-known vitamins could be successfully used in cosmetology. The available data indicate that one of them – folic acid plays an important role in life process of mitotically active tissues and its deficiency increases background level of DNA damage. G. Böhm, J. Nutzmann, M. Jansen, Neue Hautemulsionen zur Behandlung der postoperativen Hautquellung der Chirurgenhand – eine klinisch prospektive Studie, Kosmetische Medizin 07/05. Chirurgen und OP-Personal erfahren durch das Tragen protektiver Handschuhe eine Erhöhung der natürlichen Respiration der Haut mit Bildung einer feuchten Kammer. Daraus resultiert ein stark hydratisiertes, gequollenes und mazeriertes Stratum corneum mit Erniedrigung der normalen Barrierefunktion. H. Dickel, Th. M. Bruckner, St. M. Erdmann, J. W. Fluhr, The “strip” patch test: results of a multicentre study towards a standardization. Arch Dermatol Res (2004) 296: 212-219, Springer Verlag. The „strip“ patch test (SPT) is a variant of patch testing which is used for substances with a poor percutaneous penetration. Penetration of the substance is enhanced by repeated applications of adhesive tape prior to their application to the skin. However, no guidelines exist for standardized performance of the SPT. H\litlist\studies 12/06 122 V. Rogiers, E. Houben, K. De Paepe, Transepidermal Water Loss Measurements in Dermato- Cosmetic Sciences, Bioengineering of the skin: water and the stratum corneum, sec. Edition, CRC Press 2002, pp. 63-76. The stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in the clinical appearance of the skin as a result of its water-holding capacity and lipidic content. In addition, it acts as a barrier to protect the body from percutaneous absorption of a wide variety of xenobiotics, from desiccation, and from insults by a number of environmental conditions. C. Rosado, P. Pinto, L.M. Rodrigues, Comparative assessment of the performance of two generations of Tewameter®: TM210, TM300, International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005. 27. pp. 237-241. The measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been established as one of the main parameters in the assessment of skin barrier function. One of the most widely employed devices to measure TEWL is the Tewameter®. Courage and Khazaka launched the TM300 in 2003 and successfully eliminated some of the limitations of the previous model. Chris L. Packham, Helen E. Packham, Hilary M. Packham, A. Cherrington, Investigations into different skin conditions in certain occupations, The Journal of The Royal Society for the Promotion of Health, July 2005, Vol. 125, No. 4. The aim of this study was to establish whether those working in certain occupations had skin with a lower moisture content than would be considered normal. Skin moisture levels were measured as well as visual assessment. Results indicated that all occupational groups studied had skin that was less well hydrated than would be considered normal, although there were significant inter-individual variations within any one group. C. Vincent, M. Szubert, I. Eris, The assessment of efficacy, tolerability and cosmetic features of Diosperin K 1% PROLONGATUM cream containing complex of diosmine, hesperidine and vitamin K, Poster Presentation Centre for Science and Research Dr. Irena Eris, 2005. Face redness and couperoses can cause very negative visual effect and influent on patients´quality of life. Such type of skin requires special regime. Application of very gentle cleaners, sun protective products and appropriate cosmetic creams can improve the skin condition and minimize the red face effect. C. Vincent, M. Szubert, I. Eris, K. Rogiewicz, Comparison of microtopography and profilometry- two methods of skin surface analysis, Poster presentation Centre For Science And Research Dr. Irena Eris, 2005. The process of skin aging is connected with progressive changes in skin structure. The most spectacular effect of skin aging are wrinkles and progressive unevenness of skin surface. Skin of elderly people is thin and fragile due to complex changes very often summarized to reduced dermal collagen and decreased cell proliferation. C. Vincent, M. Szubert, I. Eris, K. Rogiewicz, Efficacy of Dr. Irena Eris Anti-Cellulite Body Cream, Poster presentation Centre For Science And Research Dr. Irena Eris, 2005. Cellulite is a skin problem which characterizes non-inflammatory lesions of subcutaneous tissue (lipodystrophy), leading to changes in smoothness of skin surface. Epidemiological data indicates that cellulite is problem for 80-95% of women population. The pathogenesis of cellulite covers complex of different factors: genetics, hormonal and life style. H\litlist\studies 12/06 123 Karl Lintner, Claire Mas Chamberlin, Philippe Mondon, Olivier Peschard, IgG fragments regulate IL6 production in keratinocytes: potential use in anti-age treatments, Sederma S.A.S., Le Perray, 78612 France, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * Cytokines play a fundamental role in inter-cellular communication. Their secretion rate and cellular concentrations are well regulated and in an equilibrium state (“homeostasis”) in healthy, young skin. Ageing leads to changes in these equilibriums. DHEA clearly controls IL6: the age-related decrease in DHEA (by a factor of >2 after age 50) is accompanied by increased IL6 levels. Cytokine IL6 is also known to be strongly induced in skin by UV rays. Johann W. Wiechers, Caroline Kelly, Trevor G. Bleaseand, J. Chris Dederen, FORMULATING FOR FAST EFFICACY: INFLUENCE OF LIQUID CRYSTALLINE EMULSION STRUCTURE ON THE SKIN DELIVERY OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS, Uniqema Applied Research, Skin R&D, P.O. Box 2, 2800 AA Gouda, The Netherlands, Wilton Centre, Redcar, UK, Meerbeek, Belgium. Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * In a previous publication, we described how the thermodynamic activity of an active ingredient could be optimized in a cosmetic formulation by the choice of a primary and secondary emollient. This paper describes our initial attempts to explain the influence of the emulsifier system on the dermal delivery of an active ingredient. The emulsifiers studied in this investigation induced liquid crystal formation in the formulations and interacted in two different ways. F. Distante , V. Pagani , B. Green , A. Bonfigli , J. W. Fluhr, OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF PLACEBO EFFECT IN COSMETIC TREATMENT, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005.* Product’s packaging and efficacy claims may stimulate pleasant emotions during cosmetics’ use thus enhancing their perceived benefits. Aim of the study: To objectively evaluate the influence of packaging and strongly claimed attributes on cosmetic efficacy both by non-invasive bioengineering techniques and by self-assessment. The selected cosmetic product was a marketed antiaging gluconolactone-based formulation. The packaging was either a fancy refined jar or an unbranded plain container. Maurizio Giuliani, Gianfranco Amicosante, Luisa Di Marzio, Benedetta Cinque, and Maria Grazia Cifone, Increase of skin-ceramide levels in aged subjects following a short-term topical application of bacterial sphingomyelinase from Streptococcus thermophilus., Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * Several studies have demonstrated that ceramides play an essential role in both the barrier and water- holding functions of healthy stratum corneum, suggesting that the dysfunction of the stratum corneum associated with ageing as well that observed in patients with several skin diseases (i.e. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis) could result from a ceramide deficiency. In a previous study, our group have reported a significant increase in skin ceramide levels in healthy subjects, after a treatment in vivo with a cream containing a preparation of S. salivarum subspeciem thermophilus, a probiotic belonging to the lactic acid bacterium (LAB) group. Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos, Mirela D. Gianeti, Gisele M. S. Gonçalves, Lorena R. Gaspar, Assessment of in vitro antioxidant and in vivo anti-ageing effects of cosmetic products containing vitamin C and its derivatives on human skin, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * The objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of vitamin C (AA) and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP) as well as their in vivo anti-ageing effects by using Cutaneous Bioengineering Techniques on human skin. The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was made with an aqueous and a lipid system, the luminol- chemiluminescence, and malondialdehyde assay, respectively. Sungyeon Ahn, Jihyun Bae, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang, Oksub Lee, CORRELAT ION BETWEEN CUTOMETER® AND QUANTITATIVE EVALUATION H\litlist\studies 12/06 124 USING MOIRE TOPOGRAPHY IN AGE-RELATED SKIN ELASTICITY, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * As aging occurs, our skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging such as wrinkles. Here, we identified the correlation between age and the parameters given by Cutometer®, and we present the parameters of that reflect the decreases in skin elasticity in terms of ages. (U r /U f , U a /U f , U r /U e , U a , r = -0.687~-0.725). Also we developed an evaluation method to quantify the sensory value of viewing. A five-grade standard of Moire topographic photo scale on face was prepared using sensory evaluation of 20 to 61 year-old women. G Oberto, A Berghi, F Portolan, E Bauza, C Dal Farra, and N Domloge,Cotton Honeydew Oligosaccharides for Hair Care Cosmetics, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * Cotton honeydew extract is a unique composition of oligosaccharides, including fructose, glucose, inositol, melezitose, saccharose, trehalose, and trehalulose. The interaction of these oligosaccharides provides a stimulating effect on keratin synthesis, which allows for protection against nutrient deprivation and osmotic stress. Consequently, we were interested in studying the effect of these oligosaccharides on human hair, using scanning electron microscopy. Paola Granata , Roberto Maffei Facino , Adriano Ghirardini , Enzo Berardesca , Grazia Primavera , Manuela Carrera, TYROSYL-HISTIDINE DIPEPTIDE: A NEW APPROACH AGAINST PREMATURE AGING, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * Oxidative fragmentation of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the skin generates cytotoxic aldehydes, mainly 4-hydroxy-trans-2-nonenal (HNE), involved in premature skin aging and photo-aging, due to the formation of collagen and elastin cross-links, skin enzymes inactivation, accumulation of lipid peroxidation products. Since histidine-containing dipeptides have been recently shown to possess carbonyl quenching activity, we developed a series of different dipeptides with the aid of combinatorial chemistry and each of them was subjected to antioxidant and anti-carbonyl assays, in a cell-free model using the ORAC assay (Oxygen Reactive Antioxidant Capacity) for anti- lipoperoxidant activity, HPLC analysis for the evaluation of the HNE quenching ability and LC- MS/MS for the characterization of the site and of the mechanism of adduction. Toru Tsuchiya, Shinichiro Haze, Tetsuji Hirao, Junichi Hosoi, Akio Kikuchi, Ken Shoji, Masahiro Tanida, Takanari Tsuda, ODORANT INHALATION LOWERED STRESS LEVELS SYSTEMICALLY, SUBSEQUENTLY RESULTING IN THE IMPROVEMENT OF CUTANEOUS FUNCTIONS:LINKAGE BETWEEN OLFACTORY SENSATION AND SKIN, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. * Our research conducted over several years has demonstrated that odorant inhalation produces an effect on cutaneous functions by inducing changes in the neuroendocrinological system. For example, inhalation of the natural sedative component of the rose flower, DMMB (1,3-dimethoxy-5- methylbenzene), inhibited an increase in plasma cortisol levels and barrier recovery delay or an increase in forehead sebum, which was induced by stress. These findings were obtained using authentic experimental patterned stress and short-period odorant inhalation. Rosnah Ismail, Salmiah Ahmad, SKIN CARE FORMULATION INCORPORATING SODIUM LACTATES, SODIUM PCA AND LAURYL PCA: COMPARATIVE MOISTURISING EFFICACY ON ASIAN SKIN , Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * Sodium lactates, sodium PCA and lauryl PCA are known Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) commonly used in skin care formulations. In this paper, moisturizing efficacy of oil-in-water (O/W) based emulsion containing 3% glycerin use as placebo and with additional NMF @1%, 3% and 5% active were conducted in-vivo on 36 Asian subjects consisting of a mixture of one Indian, two Chinese and the rest Malays including 21 females and 15 males, age between 23 to 45 years old (average 32 years). G.W. Nam1, S.H. Kim, E.J. Kim, J.H. Kim, B.G. Chae, H.K. Lee, S.J. Moon, H.H. Kang, I.S. Chang, HOW SKIN CARE INGREDIENT CONCENTRATIONS CAN MODULATE THE EFFECT H\litlist\studies 12/06 125 OF POLYOLS AND OILS ON SKIN MOISTURIZATION AND SKIN SURFACE ROUGHNESS, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005.* The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentrations display on human skin as efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Young Heui Kim, Ph.D., Young-Sil Kim, Jong-Heon Kim, Cosmeceutical Properties of Polysaccharides from the Root Bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * In Korea and China, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica has been used as traditional oriental medicine for the treatment of difficulty in urination, skin inflammation, etc. In order to investigate the potential of a polysaccharide extract from Ulmus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its moisturizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect. After hydrolysis, HPLC experiments showed that the composition of polysaccharide was mainly rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. D. Vanden Berghe1, A. Barel, A. Timchenko, K. De Paepe, N. Demeester, P. Clarys, V. Rogiers, M. Calomme, EFFECT OF ORAL INTAKE OF CHOLINE-STABILIZED ORTHOSILICIC ACID ON SKIN, NAILS AND HAIR IN WOMEN WITH PHOTODAMAGED FACIAL SKIN, , Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * Choline-stabilized orthosilicic acid (“ch-OSA”) is a bioavailable form of silicon. The effect of ch-OSA on skin, nails and hair was investigated in a double blind, placebo-controlled study. Fifty women with photodamaged facial skin were randomized to receive orally during 20 weeks 10 mg Si/day (ch-OSA pellets) or a placebo. Non-invasive methods were used to evaluate skin microrelief, hydration and mechanical anisotropy. Volunteers evaluated on a visual analogue scale (VAS) brittleness of hair and nails. In the ch-OSA group the serum Si concentration was significantly higher after 20 weeks compared to the placebo. Skin roughness increased in the placebo group but decreased in the ch-OSA group. Skin anisotropy increased after 20 weeks in the placebo group but decreased in the ch-OSA group suggesting improvement of mechanical properties. VAS scores for nail and hair brittleness were significantly lower after 20 weeks in the ch-OSA group compared to baseline scores. Katsuhiko Yagi, Katsuki Ogawa, Tetsuya Kanemaru, Kyoko Joichi, Naomi Kunizawa, and Ruriko Takano, OPTICAL REJUVENATING MAKEUP USING AN INNOVATIVE SHAPECONTROLLED HYBRID POWDER, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * For women, the sagging on the face skin that is noticed with aging is one of the important problems that should be solved. Although conventional cosmetics that can prevent sagging are only skin-care products, no makeup cosmetics that can correct the appearance of sagging have been developed. The vital factors of an optical rejuvenating makeup were found to recover the skin tension and to lighten up the face shadow appeared on the sagging skin. Therefore, the hybrid powder consisting platy barium sulfate on the surface of titanium dioxide coated mica having red interference light was developed. The panel test resulted that almost all panels could realize the rejuvenating effect of the foundation containing the powder. The image analysis showed that the finishing of the foundation was 12-years-younger than no makeup face. Jin-Hui Kim, Gwan-Sub Sim, Jin-Hwa Kim, Dong-Hwan Lee, Young-Ho Cho, Bum-Chun Lee, Hyeong-Bae Pyo,Effects of Draconis sanguis on antioxidant and MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblast, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * UV irradiation stimulates the production of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) and overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in the human skin. These cause various types of cell damages and destruction of connective proteins such as collagen in the skin. In order to develop H\litlist\studies 12/06 126 new anti-photoaging agents, we examined the antioxidant activity and the inhibitory effect of MMP-1 (collagenase) with the extracts of oriental herbs. M. R. Pena Ferreira, P. Costa, M. F. Bahia Study of Efficacy Comparison of 20 Anti-Oily Hair Shampoos Using Sebumeter SM 810, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * There are many different types of shampoos available to the consumer to control greasy hair. In our study we compare the efficacy of 20 shampoos in the treatment of oiliness using a non-invasive method (Sebumeter SM 810). A sample of 400 male and female volunteers with greasy hair or tendency to oily (ages 18 - 65) was tested. All products reduced the sebum excretion rate after the 10 th application of the tested shampoo. No significant differences were found between the results of the shampoos. Philippe Masson, Florence Merot, Marie-José AlbinN, Christine Simonet, Simone Flauto, Philippe Pommez, PSYCHONEUROIMMUNOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A COSMETIC PRODUCT: BENEFITS OF A MULTIFACTORIAL APPROACH, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * Several publications have reported the existence of a relationship between individual mood and immunological response, basing the observations on the variation in the salivary IgA and Cortisol content [1,2]. Then, it seemed relevant to consider if such considerings could apply to demonstrate the ability of specific cosmetic formulations to influence the users’ behaviour by providing them pleasure and well being in addition to the usual cosmetic effects. The first results obtained have demonstrated a lack of stability of the immunological responses and the obligation to correlate the results with complementary parameters. F. Distante , V. Pagani , B. Green , A. Bonfigli , J. W. Fluhr, OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF PLACEBO EFFECT IN COSMETIC TREATMENT, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. * Product’s packaging and efficacy claims may stimulate pleasant emotions during cosmetics’ use thus enhancing their perceived benefits. Aim of the study: To objectively evaluate the influence of packaging and strongly claimed attributes on cosmetic efficacy both by non-invasive bioengineering techniques and by self-assessment. The selected cosmetic product was a marketed antiaging gluconolactone-based formulation. The packaging was either a fancy refined jar or an unbranded plain container. John J. Wille, Cutaneous Delivery of Antioxidant Botanicals, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. A truly effective anti-irritant strategy seeks to modulate checkpoints in the irritant signal cascade. Earlier, we reviewed our work and the scientific and patent literature on anti-irritants (1-2) for prevention and treatment of contact irritant due to topical cosmetic, dermatological and transdermal drugs. A. Koyanagi, N. Goto, S. Daikai, S. Uchida, N. Hayashi, N. Ikeda, M. Yoshioka, Evaluation of a multi-functional hybrid polymer based on a novel technology: as emulsifier, lastarizer, smoother, texture enhancer and moisturizer, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. The copolymer consisted of hydrolysed silk protein and alkylmethylsiloxane was recently developed by our technology. The copolymer enabled us to make stable Water in Silicone emulsion as well as Water in Oil emulsion by cold process. It was dispersible in various kinds of oil, in spite of its insolubility in water or solvents and this proved the important feature of this copolymer. R. Ismail, S. Ahmad, Sodium lactates in skin lightening formulations: its synergy with other skin lightening agents, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. In many Western countries, skin lighteners and related products sold in the market are aimed to prevent and treat melasma, freckles and age spots. However in Asia, skin-lightening products are H\litlist\studies 12/06 127 primarily used to achieve the beauty ideal of a white and flawless skin, although they also treat problem areas. P. Tengamnuay, T. Rojanadilok, Comparative Efficacy Evaluation of Some Commercial Skin Whitening Lotions, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. To have a white, smooth skin appears to be the most desirable feature among women, especially those from Asian countries like China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. As a result, a great number of whitening products is available on the market. The active whitening ingredients in these products range from conventional UV filters to highly sophisticated combination of various skin-whitening agents. Sonnen-Apotheke, Kötzing, Dermokosmetik, Beratung in der Apotheke, PTA Nr. 11, Oktober 2005. Eine gute Unterstützung bei Promotionaktionen zum Thema „Hautpflege“ sind Hautanalysegeräte. Sie erleichtern den Einstieg in die Beratung, individuell auf den Hauttyp und Hautzustand der Kundin oder des Kunden abegestimmt. Dr. Judit Nemes, Dr. Marta Alberth, Reliability and clinical usefulness of sudorometry in measuring dental fear of children, University of Debrecen, Medical and Health Science Centre, Hungary, Okt. 2005. Dental fear is a common health care problem in the child population. To the effective management of this handicapping trait, it is important to determine the prevalence of the problem in the community so as to help in the planning of public health service. K. de Paepe, V. Rogiers, Corneofix F20®, a new technology to define skin desquamation, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. The aim of the present study was the evaluation of a newly marketed methodology for the characterization of the skin desquamation index (DI) being an important parameter for the evaluation of overall skin condition. D. Kowatzki, C. Machold, K. Krull, P. Elsner, J.W. Fluhr, Regeneration kinetic of sweating, Stratum Corneum hydration, Surface pH, Sebum production and mechanical properties is not altered by regular sauna bathing, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. Wellness and especially sauna bathing are of growing interest in modern health care. The positive effect of sauna for general health is well documented. However, to our knowledge no controlled studies have been published on the effect of sauna on skin physiology. M. Visscher, J. Smith, D. Said, P. Bondurant, R. Wickett, Stratum Corneum integrity and function in health care workers following hand hygiene procedures, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. Compliance with the Centers for Disease Control´s hand hygiene guideline is low and health care workers (HCWs) cite skin irritation as highest reason for failure to comply. J.W. Fluhr, M. Breternitz, M. Flach, P. Elsner, Acute eperimentally induced barrier disruption by tape stripping is influenced by pressure, time and anatomical location: Integrity and Cohesion assessed by sequential tape stripping, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. Tape stripping is a well-known procedure in stratum corneum physiology research. Adhesive films are pressed to the surface of SC and then removed. The superficial layers of SC adhere on the film and are accessible for further investigations. Although this method is widely used, only few information about standardization are known. L. Bankova, P. Kleesz, R. Grieshaber, P. Elsner, J.W. Fluhr, Irritant potential of food additives: a bioengineering irritation study, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. H\litlist\studies 12/06 128 Goal of the study: To assess the skin irritant effects of food additives and the potential relevance for the development of irritant contact dermatitis. Methodoloy: The irritants (ascorbic acid, acetic acid and sodium hydroxide at different pH values) were applied to the skin of the mid-back of 19 volunteers twice daily for four days using and occlusive epicutaneous patch test system and in combinations with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). A. O. Barel, K. Henau, P. Clarys, In vitro calibration and validation of the reviscometer using silicone polymers as simple skin model systems, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. In vitro determination of the mechanical properties and isotropy of various polymers used as skin model systems can be determined using the shear wave propagation method. The Reviscometer (Courage-Khazaka, Cologen, Germany) measures the resonance running time (RTT) between 2 sensors which are placed with constant pressure on the surface of the material. The RTT times are expressed in arbitrary units related to time. P. Clarys, K. Henau, A.O. Barel, Investigation of intrinsic and photoaging of human skin using the reviscometer and the cutometer, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. In vivo and mechanical isotropy/ anisotropy properties of the skin can be determined using the shear wave propagation method (Reviscometer, Courage-Khazaka). The wave travelling time from transmitter to receiver (Resonance Running Time, RTT), expressed in arbitrary time units, is inversely proportional to the stiffness of the skin. E. Ruvolo, N. Kollias, Aging the elastic parameters of human epidermis: the role of langer´s line and skin anisotropy, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. * One of the dominant characteristics of aging of the skin is its loss of elasticity, yet measurements of the mechanical properties of the skin yield relatively small changes in the percent values from youth to advanced age using suction or torque based instruments. C. Heinemann, C. Paschold, J.W. Fluhr, W. Wigger-Alberti, S. Schliemann-Willers, P. Elsner, Induction of a hardening phenomenon by repeated application of SLS and subsequent analysis of the changes in the lipid composition of the stratum corneum, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. The hardening phenomenon results from the adaptation of the skin to repeated influence of exogenous irritative noxes. This study focuses on the lipid composition on the stratum corneum before and after induction of a hardening phenomenon. S. Son, S. Park, S. Ha, G. Park, G. Lee, C. Oh, Analysis of the skin hydration states using high resolution magnetic resonance microscope, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. Magnetic Resonance (MR) technique have been rapidly developed, and Magnetic Resonance Image (MRI) is now the most versatile non-invasive diagnostic tool with a much higher resolution than other imaging modalities such as conventional X-ray, or Computed Tomography (CT). R. Voegeli, J. Heiland, S. Doppler, T. Schreier, Efficient and Simple Quantification of Stratum Corneum Proteins on Tape Strippings, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. Tape stripping is established as a common technique in dermatological research and is used in a broad range of applications. However, a concurrent colorimetrical determination of protein content and enzyme activity on the same tape is circumstantial. M. Jouandeaud, C. Lenaers, S. Mazalrey, J. Dorotyn, B. Closs,Synthesis capacities of human fibroblasts compared to those of fibroblasts from striae, Poster Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. H\litlist\studies 12/06 129 The deterioation of the fibril network of the skin is due mainly to aging and other types of modifications such as hormonal modifications. One of the problems often encountered as a result of a modification of the skin fibrous network is striation. Dr. AnsgarBehler, Sybille Cornelsen, Dr. Iris Huetter, A new multifunctional mono alkyl ether citrate with unique properties, Poster Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. J. Molinero, R. Ojeda, J. Coll, A. Mirada, C. Trullas, Clinical and bioengineering evaluation of the efficacy and safety of 30% urea cream in the treatment of hyperqueratotic skin disorders, Presentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005. Topical products with high concentrations of urea have been recently incorporated to dermatological vademecum. Urea, an active ingredient with a long history in dermatology has been extensively used in several skin diseases due to their moisturizing, desquamating, antiproliferative and antipruritic effect. S. Savic, S. Tamburic, S. Vesic, G. Vuleta, C. Müller-Goymann, Effect of Vehicle Composition on In vitro/ in vivo Hydrocortisone Penetration, Presentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005. Diffusion/penetration properties of locally applied drugs are affected by both the status of the stratum corneum (SC) and by the composition and colloidal structure of the vehicle. Hongbo Zhai, Emi Dika, M. Goldovsky, H. I. Maibach, Tape Stripping Method in Man: Comparison on Evaporimetric Methods, Presentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) documents integrity of stratum corneum (SC) water barrier function and is a sensitive indicator of skin water barrier alteration. Adhesive tape stripping is commonly used for investigating SC physiology, bioavailability and bioequivalence of topical drugs. H. Tronnier, T. Dirschka, U. Heinrich, Periorale Dermatidis (PD) – Eine kosmetisch relevante Dermatose, Poster Präsentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005. Die periorale Dermatitis (PD) als Krankheitsentität ist 1964 von Mihan und Ayres erstmals in den USA beschrieben worden. Die erste deutsche Veröffentlichung 1969 stammt von Steigleder et al. Die Erkrankung ist im Gesicht, vorwiegend perioral, aber auch perioculär lokalisiert. Es finden sich lokalisierte Papeln und Papulovesikel in entzündlich geröteter Haut. Im Rahmen einer Studie wurden Patienten mit PD und hautgesunde Vergleichspersonen untersucht. Hristo Dobrev, Clinical and instrumental study of the sebum regulation efficacy of REGU®-SEB, Poster Presentation at the EADV in London, October 2005. * Excessively oily facial skin is due to overactive sebaceous glands and can occur in both males and females. The skin is greasy and shiny, with large open pores, feels unpleasant and may be a serious cosmetic problem. Moreover, this type of skin is sensitive and much more prone to acne and seborrhoeic dermatitis. That is why the control over the excessive oiliness is very important. * A. G. Schepky, U. Holtzmann, K. Bohnsack (Beiersdorf AG, Germany), Novel effects of an acidic humectant combination result in protection and activation of enzyme activity in human skin, Presentation at the 14 th EADV Congress, London, Okt. 2005. Sensitive skin conditions result from an imbalance between endogenous, protective factors and exogenous, aggressive stimuli like exposure o irritants, e.g. harsh surfactants. This imbalance goes along with an impairment of skin enzyme activity. Sang W. Son, Sang Y. Park, Seung H. Ha, Gyu M. Park, Objective evaluation for severity of atopic dermatitis by morphologic study of skin surface contours, Skin Research and Technology 11/05, pp. 272-280. * Wide variation in outcome methodology can make the interpretation of patient outcomes confusing and the comparison of the results of different studies almost impossible. It is important to objectively measure and record the severity of atopic dermatitis (AD) for routine clinical practice and research. H\litlist\studies 12/06 130 The aim of this study was to evaluate whether morphologic study of skin surface contours might be helpful to objectively quantify the severity of AD. M. Fischer, Chr. Donath, J. Radke, W. Ch. Marsch, J. Soukup, Skin function parameters in intensive-care patients, Skin Research and Technology 11/05, pp. 268-271. Intensive-care patients are at risk for organic failures. But there are hardly any results known for the skin barrier function of patients in intensive care. There are only studies of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in premature infants (1,2). It was found that premature infants have an insufficient cutaneous barrier, which can be improved by bland local therapy (2). D. Schmid, F. Suter, F. Zülli, Soothing Factor from Opuntia Cactus for Sensitive Skin, SÖFW- Journal 11-2005, pp. 14-18. Sensitive skin tends to be more susceptible to some environmental factors. People with sensitive skin report exaggerated reactions such as redness, itching or rashes when their skin is in contact with certain cosmetics, plants or fabrics, hot or cold, or insect bites. Normally, people with sensitive skin show quicker an erythemal reaction against ultraviolet irradiation. G. Primavera, J. W. Fluhr, E. Berardesca, Standardization of Measurements and Guidelines, Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp. 83-95. Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is widely used to characterize the water barrier function of skin (both in physiological and pathological conditions), to perform predictive irritancy tests, and to evaluate the efficacy of therapeutic treatments on diseased skin. TEWL assessment can be performed using different techniques [1,2] (closed-chamber method, ventilated-chamber method, and open-chamber method). Gabriel Khazaka, Assessment of Stratum Corneum Hydration: Corneometer CM 825, Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp. 249-261. * The assessment of skin moisture is one of the first and most important measurements for testing the efficacy of cosmetic products on the skin surface. The quantity of literature worldwide dealing with this topic indicates the significance of this measurement. Numerous studies about the advantages, disadvantages, and comparisons among the different commercially available devices have been published. G. Primavera, J. W. Fluhr, E. Berardesca, Electrical Assessment of Skin Hydration: Standardization of Measurements and Guidelines, Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp. 287-295. The importance of water to the proper functioning of the stratum corneum (SC) is well recognized. The reliable quantification of water in the corneum and its interaction with topically applied products is, in fact, essential for understanding skin physiology and developing efficient skin care formulation. Chris Edwards, R. Marks, Hydration and Atopic Dermatitis, Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp. 323-333. Frequently, the skin on noneczematous areas of atopic dermatitis (AD) sufferers feels rough and appears “dry”. This xerosis is associated with the itch that accompanies the disorder. Reports of the incidence of xerosis in AD patients vary from 48 to 98 %. J.W. Fluhr, Chr. Uhl, Hautphysiologische Messungen in der täglichen Praxis: Corneometrie und Sebumetrie bei physiologischen und krankhaften Hautveränderungen, Diagnostische Verfahren, Kap. Nr. 37, 2005, pp. 321-345. Grundlagen der Methoden: Bei der Corneometrie handelt es sich um eine nicht-invasive Messung der Hautoberfläche zur Bestimmung des Feuchtigkeitsgehalts im Stratum corneum. Die Messung erfolgt auf kapazitivem Weg und beruht auf der Tatsache, dass Wasser eine von anderen Stoffen sehr unterschiedliche Dielektrizitätskonstante besitzt. H\litlist\studies 12/06 131 Dr. G. Varju, Dr. G. Garay, Surface Evaluation of Living Skin (SELS) during Microdermabrasion Treatment Course, Poster Presentation, Dr. Derm Laser Center of Dermatology, Budapest Hungary, 2005. Microdermabrasion has become a popular method of skin rejuvenation for treating photodamage, fine rhytides, age spots, dyschromia, enlarged pores and mild ache. This procedure is one of the newest skin rejuvenating techniques employed to help improve the texture and appearance of the skin. H. Dobrev, The Effects of topically applied Matrixyl, natural grape seed and avocado oils on skin surface, hydration and elasticity, EADV, May 2005, Sofia, Bulgaria (abstract). * Background: Matrixyl is a lipophilic pentapeptide that stimulates the collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin. The grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids which are powerful antioxidants. Avocado oil consists predominantly of unsaturated fatty acid glycerides, vitamins and minerals, and has good emollient properties. H. Dobrev, Evaluation of the efficacy of a Rooibos Extract containing anti-wrinkle cream, EADV, May 2005, Sofia, Bulgaria (abstract). * Background: Rooibos plant possesses scientifically proven anti-oxidative, anti-allergic, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory features. Aim: To evaluate the efficacy of a Rooibos extract containing cream on aged facial skin using in vivo skin bioengineering techniques. K. Schweikert, V. Kalhöfer, B. Gabard, Improving the properties of Hyaluronic acid on dry skin, Personal Care, Nov. 2005, pp. 35-39. The effects of two cosmetic actives intended for the treatment of skin dryness (Hyaluronic acid and the new Tamarindus indica seed extract) were evaluated in five healthy volunteers by objective measurements after twice daily application on the skin of the volar forearm for two weeks. Dr. I. Hütter, Dr. A. Behler, S. Cornelsen, `Vitamin` of surfactants profiled, Personal Care, Nov. 2005, pp. 45-47. Natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) or so-called “fruit acids” such as citric, malic or glycolic acid, have been used for years in personal care applications. They are highly appreciated for their cosmetic benefits, such as anti-ageing and moisturising. C. Lenaers, N. Guichard, S. Mazalrey, B. Closs, A biological desquamation strategy for skin resurfacing, Personal Care Magazine, January 2006, pp. 31-37. The stacking of corneocytes constitutes the horny layer of the skin, or stratum corneum (SC) and enables the epidermis to fulfil two of its principal functions. On the one hand, the SC ensures a barrier and protection function between the organism and its environment by limiting both water losses and the penetration of exogenous molecules. L. K. Smalls, R. R. Wickett, M. O. Visscher, Effect of dermal thickness, tissue composition, and body site on skin biomechanical properties, Skin Research & Technology 2006, 12, pp. 43-49. * The epidermis, the fibrous collagen and elastin network of the dermis, and the hypodermis give rise to the biomechanical properties of the skin. Measurements of these properties have been used extensively to evaluate treatments for the repair of facial actinic damage and the effects of aging and to assess the effectiveness of facial resurfacing treatments (1-3). F. Khatyr, C. Imberdis, D. Varchon, J.-M. Lagarde, G. Josse, Measurement of the mechanical properties of the skin using the suction test, Skin Research & Technology 2006, 12, pp. 24-31. * The mechanical behaviour of skin in vivo is both viscoelastic (1,2) and anisotropic (3-5). Currently, the suction test is the only real test that is in use in both research laboratories and dermatology departments. This is mainly because of the availability on the market of perfectly operational apparatuses such as the Dermaflex A (Cortex Technology, Hadsund, Denmark) (6) and in particular the Cutometer SEM575 (Courage Khazaka, Köln, Germany) (7). H\litlist\studies 12/06 132 F. Guillaumie, B. M. Malle, K. Schwach-Abdellaoui, T. C. Beck, A New Sodium Hyaluronte for Skin Moisturization and Antiaging, Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol. 121, No. 4, April 2006, pp. 51-58. In response to growing concerns about animal-derived sources for hyaluronic acid, some researchers have turned to biotech methods to produce this skin moisturizing agent. R. Ismail, S. Ahmad, Skin Care Formulation Incorporating Natural Moisturising Factor and its Efficacy on Asian Skin, SÖFW-Journal, International Journal for Applied Science, 4 2006, pp. 2-7. The skin has the property to retain water in order to maintain its proper barrier function. In situations of environmental stress, age or intrinsic physiological disturbances, this function is maintained only in part. G. W. Nam, S. H. Kim, E. J. Kim, J. H. Kim, B. G. Chae, H. K. Lee, How Skincare Ingredient Concentrations Can Modulate the Effect of Polyols and Oils on Skin Moisturization and Skin Surface Roughness, IFSCC Magazine, Vol. 9, No. 1 2006. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skincare ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils are essential ingredients in a skin care formulation, but it is still not understood how their concentrations affect their efficacy and sensory properties on human skin. H. Matsuki, K. Kiyokane, T. Matsuki, S. Sato, G. Imokawa, Recharacterization of the Nonlesional Dry Skin in Atopic Dermatitis through Disrupted Barrier Function, Exogenous Dermatology, March 2006. The etiology of the nonlesional dry and barrier-disrupted skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) is still unclear. Objective: To determine whether disrupted barrier function in the nonlesional skin is associated with inflammatory or postinflammatory events, which are relevant to the severity of AD or local dry skin properties, respectively. H. Matsuki, K. Kiyokane, T. Matsuki, S. Sato, G. Imokawa, Reevaluation of the Importance of Barrier Dysfunction in the Nonlesional Dry Skin of Atopic Dermatitis Patients through the Use of Two Barrier Creams, Exogenous Dermatology, March 2006. Atopic dermatitis (AD) can be considered a barrier disease in which antigens and irritants that can easily penetrate clinically normal, nonlesional skin due to its defective barrier function trigger and worsen the dermatitis. J. W. Wiechers, C. Kelly, T. G. Blease, J. C. Dederen, Formulating for Fast Efficacy: Influence of Liquid Crystalline Emulsion Structure on the Skin Delivery of Active Ingredients, IFSCC Magazine Vol. 9, No. 1 2006. In a previous publication, we described how the extent of skin delivery of an active ingredient can be optimised in a cosmetic formulation by the choice of a primary and secondary emollient. This paper describes our initial attempts to explain the influence of the emulsifier system on the dermal delivery of an active ingredient. H. Dobrev, Treatment of Acne with a new topical preparation. A clinical and instrumental study, EADV, October 2006, Rhodes, Greece (abstract). * Background: Sepicontrol A5 is a cosmetic active ingredient designated to improve the appearance of oily, acne prone facial skin. Aim: To evaluate the sebum regulation activity, clinical efficacy and safety of a 3% and 4% Sepicontrol A5 containing cream and gel in subjects with mild to moderate acne. E. Houben, K. De Paepe, V. Rogiers, Skin condition associated with intensive use of alcoholic gels for hand disinfection : a combination of biophysical and sensorial data, Contact Dermatitis 2006 : 54, pp. 261-267. H\litlist\studies 12/06 133 Hand hygiene of healthcare workers (HCWs) is of major concern to avoid nosocomial infections (1-4). Therefore, hospitalwide infection control programmes prescribe disinfection of the hands after each patient contact (5, 6). E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, G. Loussouarn, Chr. Haubrechts, G. E. Pierad, Skin capacitance imaging and corneosurfametry. A comparative assessment of the impact of sufactants on stratum corneum, Contact Dermatitis 2006 : 54, pp. 249-253. Surfactants present in hygiene and skin care products are in part adsorbed at the skin surface (1), and they can also permeate the stratum corneum (SC) where they interact with proteins and lipids (2). In vitro studies have revealed a number of physico-chemical interactions between corneocytes and surfactants. Sparavigna, A. Di Pietro, M. Setaro, Sensitive skin: correlation with skin surface microrelief appearance, Skin Research and Technology 2006: 12, pp. 7-10. Sensitive skin has been defined as a condition associated with reduced cutaneous tolerance to environmental factors, such as cold, heat and wind, and/or frequent or prolonged applications of some topical products, such as cosmetics. Chr. M. Lee, H. I. Maibach, M.D., Bioengineering Analysis of Water Hydration, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 3, March 2006, pp. 46-52. The water content of the stratum corneum (SC) influences almost every biophysical property measurable at the skin surface. Water hydration can be measured using the plastic occlusion stress test (POST) or the water sorption-desorption test (WSDT). G. Kutz, C. Bruns, S. Hennig, M. Enga, Current ingredients in semi-solid formulations and their effects on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and water resistance, Life Science Technologies – Pharmaceutical Engineering, Fachhochschule Lippe und Höxter, Germany, 2006, poster presentation. A series of factors like excessive treatment with detergents or organic solvents, UV irradiation as well as low humidity are known to damage skin. Frequent barrier malfunction is due to a reduced amount of lipids. Wolfgang Geissel, Gesunde Haut durch gute Beratung, Igel Plus: Juni 2006, pp. 18-19. Wird ein Mensch in der Sonne überhaupt braun und wenn ja, wie schnell und wie intensiv? Bekommt er schnell einen Sonnenbrand? Mit einer kurzen Anamnese lässt sich der Hauttyp eines Menschen grob in die Phototyp-Skala einordnen, sagt PD Joachim Fluhr von der Klinik für Dermatologie der Universität Jena. Newsletter #1/2006, Raumstation: Fachinformationsdienst zur Nutzung der Internationalen Raumstation, Experiment „SkinCare“ auf der Raumstation: Hautphysiologische Messungen in Schwerelosigkeit, April 2006, p. 10. Im Rahmen der geplanten europäischen ISS-Langzeitmission von Juli bis Dezember 2006 sollten erstmals systematisch physiologische Parameter der menschlichen Haut bei einem längeren Aufenthalt in Schwerelosigkeit erfasst werden. Dabei erlaubt der Einsatz moderner nicht-invasiver Messverfahren, durch die Bestimmung von Parametern wie Feuchtigkeit, Barrierefunktion und Mikrostruktur, den physiologischen Hautzustand exakt zu charakterisieren. S. Tamburic, In vivo skin performance of a cationic emulsion base in comparison with an anionic system, Journal of Applied Cosmetology, vol. 24, number 2, April/June 2006, pp. 63-74. Cationic emulsifiers are relatively recent addition to the vast range of emulsifiers for personal care products. There are very few data regarding their in vivo skin performance. This study presents a comparative assessment of skin hydration potential of two emulsion creams: a cationic emulsion, based on distearyldimonium chloride, and an anionic emulsion, based on hydrophobically modified acrylic acid polymer. H\litlist\studies 12/06 134 S. Tamburic, Effects of Polymer Entrapment of Prunus Spinosa Fruit extract on its cosmetic efficacy, Journal of Applied Cosmetology, vol. 24, number 2, April/June 2006, pp. 1-14. The aim of this paper was to find out whether the entrapment of herbal extract into polymeric “reservoir” systems affects its skin efficacy. C. Mas-Chamberlin, Ph. Mondon, F. Lamy, K. Lintner, Potential preventive performance, Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics, June 2006, pp. 38-40. It is not easy to measure the preventive efficacy of skin care products, but Claire Mas-Chamberlin, Philippe Mondon, Francois Lamy, Karl Lintner, Claire Jossan and Frederique Girard report on an accelerated skin ageing-type process used to investigate active efficacy. F. Tokumura, Y. Yoshihura, T. Homma, H. Nukatsuka, Regional differences in adhesive tape stripping of human skin, Skin Research and Technology August 2006, 12, pp. 178-182. * Medical pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes are applied to various regions of the human body for many purposes. Although some adhesive tapes are designed for a specific purpose and applied to a single region, such as first-aid bandages for the fingers and a variety of adhesive pads for foot-care, a large number of adhesive tapes are applied to various regions. S. Mac-Mary, P. Creidi, D. Marsaut, C. Courderot-Masuyer, V. Cochet, Assessment of effects of an additional dietary natural mineral water uptake on skin hydration in healthy subjects by dynamic function measurements and clinic scoring, Skin Research and Technology August 2006, 12, pp. 199-205.* The skin acts as a barrier to the outside world, protecting the body’s organs and tissues from damage and physical, chemical and bacteriological injuries. Moreover, it helps to keep the body temperature under control. It also prevents the transcutaneous loss of water. C. Lenaers, M. Dana, M. Pinel, B. Closs, Immediate and long-lasting skin tightening, Personal Care, Sept. 2006, pp. 65-67. The use of tensor active ingredients in anti-age care products is well-known to provide the users with immediate and visible effects. Nevertheless, these tensor active ingredients provide only mechanical effects on the skin surface that are also short-term effects. D. Khazaka, Objective Measurement at all Stages of the treatment, 5 th Asia Pacific Conference on Antiaging Medicine, Bali, September 2006. The days are over when a dermatologist only looked at the skin to make a diagnosis and to decide about the following treatments and to recommend skin care products to use. For almost 20 years now there is scientific equipment available to measure different parameters on the skin, such as hydration and sebum level, pH, elasticity, pigmentation skin texture and wrinkles and many more. D. Schmid, C. Schürch, F. Zülli, Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Red Algae Protect against Premature Skin-Aging, Euro Cosmetics 9-2006, pp. 18-22. Normal skin aging is accompanied by slow and continuous structural, functional, and metabolic changes in the skin. Such changes are greatly accelerated when the skin is exposed to solar UV radiation. The solar UV spectrum which reaches the earth’s surface has been divided into UVB (290 – 320 nm) and UVA (320 – 400nm). R. Ismail, S. Ahmad, Skin Care Formulation Incorporating Natural Moisturising Factor and its Efficacy on Asian Skin, SÖFW-Journal No. 132, 4-2006, pp. 2-7. The skin has the property to retain water in order to maintain its proper barrier function. In situations of environmental stress, age or intrinsic physiological disturbances, this function is maintained only in part. The water storage capacity of the skin decreases with an increased water loss by evaporation (transepidermal water loss, TEWL), resulting in a dry, deep-wrinkled or even squamous skin. Junko Ishikawa, Hirofumi Narita, Naoki Kondo, Yutaka Takagi, Yoshinori Masukawa, and Takashi Kitahara, Regional Analysis of Ceramides within the Human Stratum Corneum by Normal H\litlist\studies 12/06 135 Phase Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Mass Spectrometry, Biological Science Laboratories, and Analytical Research Center, Kao Corporation, 2606 Akabane, Ichikai-Machi, Haga- Gun, Tochigi 321-3497, Japan, Oral Presentation on the 24 th IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Oct. 2006. * Ceramides (CERs) are the major component of the stratum corneum (SC), accounting for 30-40% of SC lipids by weight. SC CERs, together with cholesterol and fatty acids, form extracellular lamellae that are responsible for the epidermal permeability barrier. Previous studies reported decreases of SC CERs in atopic dermatitis patients, who have low cutaneous barrier function. Such alterations of CER contents may be responsible for the impaired water-barrier function of the skin in atopic dermatitis. Rainer Voegeli, Anthony V Rawlings, Stefan Doppler, Thomas Schreier, Profiling of Serine Protease Activities in Human Stratum Corneum, Oral Presentation on the 24 th IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Oct. 2006. * Epidermal serine proteases are involved in numerous physiological and pathological reactions in cells and tissues such as proliferation, differentiation, lipid barrier homeostasis and tissue remodeling. Most importantly proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is a crucial event prior to desquamation. Reduced expression of kallikrein 7 (stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme or SCCE) and kallikrein 5 (stratum corneum tryptic enzymes or SCTE) has been observed in the outer layers of the stratum corneum (SC) in dry skin whereas increased total SC activities are reported following a challenge to the skin with ultraviolet radiation or surfactants. Chika Katagiri, Jotaro Nakanishi, and Toshihiko Hibino, Identification of a Regulatory Molecule in Keratinocyte Denucleation and its Relevance to Barrier Disruption, Oral Presentation on the 24 th IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Oct. 2006. * The terminal differentiation of keratinocytes results in the formation of stratum corneum, that serves as a protective barrier against hazardous environments. During the transition phase from granular to cornified cells, keratinocytes lose their nuclei to form the cornified layer, a crucial step in completing differentiation and to invoke subsequent physiological functions. Disordered differentiation frequently leads to the persistent presence of nuclei in the cornified layers, a condition known as parakeratosis that seriously disrupts the barrier function of the skin. This study is aimed at elucidating the mechanisms of keratinocyte denucleation and its disorder, parakeratosis. C. Lenaers, D. Boudier, Ch. Chauprade, D. Rondeau, B. Closs, Wrinkle Reduction by Stimulation of the Skin’s Mechanical Resistance, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 11/Nov. 2006, pp. 47- 56. Wrinkles are a symptom of structural failure in the dermis. They indicate that the skin is losing its ability to support its own weight, and that fibroblasts in the dermis are losing their capacity to attach to collagen fibers and transmit mechanical information. L. Rigano, C. Andolfatto, Antiaging Effects of a Skin Repair Active Principle, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 11/Nov. 2006, pp. 57-64. Sodium DNA is an ingredient with activity at the cellular level. This fact has led to its incorporation in numerous high-end antiaging skin care products. An explanation of that activity and results of several tests of one sodium DNA material are presented in this article. D. Tamarkin, M. Eini, D. Friedman, Foam: The Future of Effective Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 11/Nov. 2006, pp. 75-84. The paramount objective of cosmeceutical development is to create effective products based on state- of-the-art, active ingredients that are conveniently delivered. The vehicle used to deliver topical ingredients can influence the performance of such ingredients since it can affect the delivery of the active agent to the target site of action. H\litlist\studies 12/06 136 S. M. Fuchs, C. Heinemann, S. Schliemann-Willers, H. Härtl, J. W. Fluhr, P. Elsner, Assessment of anti-inflammatory activity of Poria cocos in sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritant contact dermatitis, Skin Research and Technology 2006, 12, pp. 223-227. * A great number of compounds is available for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases like atopic dermatitis (1), dermatitis solaris or psoriasis (2), the most effective external anti-inflammatory compounds being glucocorticoids. Their side effects (3) have motivated a continuing search for other therapeutical compounds, and fungal metabolites like Poria cocos (PoCo) have figured in the literature. The present study was designed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory efficacy of PoCo extracts against experimentally induced irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) in a non-invasive human in vivo model with different parameters. P. Quatresooz, J. F. Hermanns, Ph. Paquet, G. E. Pierard, Mechanobiology and force transduction in scars developed in darker skin types, Skin Research and Technology 2006, 12, pp. 279-282. * Skin of any part of the body is subjected to intrinsic mechanical tensions. These forces are oriented along specific directions named Langer’s lines or relaxed skin tension lines according to the body posture (1, 2). Any scar is under similar physical solicitations, but it is also the site of other forces generated by the contractile properties of fibroblasts and myofibroblasts (3, 6). E. Sang Park, J. Im Na, S. Ok Kim, Ch. H. Huh, S. W. Youn, K. Ch. Park, Application of a pigment measuring device - Mexameter® - for the differential diagnosis of vitiligo and nevus depigmentosus, Skin Research and Technology 2006, 12, pp.298-302.* Vitiligo, an acquired pigmentation disorder, is characterized by a loss of melanocytes and results in white skin patches. Nevus depigmentosus (ND) is frequently confused with vitiligo, and is defined as a congenital non-progressive hypopigmented lesion that is stable in terms of size and distribution throughout life (1). Ron Ofri, Keren Orgad, Ph. H. Kass, S. Dikstein, Canine meibometry: Establishing baseline values for meibomian gland secretions in dogs, The Veterinary Journal (2006), doi:10.1016/j.tvjl.2006.10.008. * Meibomian lipid secretions are essential in preventing tear evaporation. Disorders of the meibomian glands may therefore play an important role in the pathogenesis of some forms of keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS). Until now, meibomian lipid secretions have never been quantitatively evaluated in dogs. Tracy Sherwood, Just Below the Surface, GCImagazine (Dec. 2006), pp. 34-35. In order to substantiate claims, manufacturers and brands must prove that their products do what they claim with the safety of the consumer in mind. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) recently introduced its new commitment code for cosmetic companies, promoting industry self-regulation regarding product safety. Maria Miteva, Stefan Richter, Peter Elsner, Joachim W. Fluhr; Approches for optimizing the calibration standard of Tewameter TM 300, Experimental Dermatology 2006, pp 904 – 912. Calibration of devices measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is in intensive discussion. Comparative studies revealed that comparable measuring systems, e.g. open and closed chamber systems, do not always deliver the same results. Joachim W. Fluhr, Kenneth R. Feingold, Peter M. Elias, Transepidermal water loss reflects permeability barrier status: validation in human and rodent in vivo and ex vivo models, Experimental Dermatology 2006, pp 483 – 492 Permeability barrier function is measured with instruments that assess transepidermal water loss (TEWL), either with closed- or open-loop-systems. Yet, the validitiy of TEWL as a measure of barrier status has been questioned recently. H\litlist\studies 12/06 137 Hiroshi Fujita, Tetsuji Hirao, Motoji Takahashi, A Simple and non-invasive visualization for assessment of carbonylated protein in the stratum corneum, Skin Research and Technology 2007, pp. 84-90. Stratum corneum (SC) ist the interface of body and environment and is continuously exposed to oxidative stress, resulting in oxidative modification of proteins. Consequent carbonylated proteins (CPs) have so far been labelled with 2,4-dinitrophenyl (DNP) hydrazine and subsequently detected with anti-DNP antibody. Hristo Dobrev, In vivo study of skin mechanical properties in Raynaud’s phenomenon, Skin research and Technology 2007, pp. 91-94. Raynaud’s phenomenon (RP) is usually the first symptom in patients with systemic sclerosis (SS) and may precede skin changes by several months or years. Non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity are very sensitive and appropriate for objective and quantitative evaluation of sclerodermatous skin. Uwe Wollina, Jörn Kubick,i Dexpanthenol supports healing of superficial wounds and injuries, Kosmetische Medizin 5+6/2006, pp. 240-249. Oberflächliche Hautverletzungen und Wunden sind häufig. Unter Einsatz eines Spektrums verschiedener In-vivo-Modelle der epidermalen Barrierestörung und der Wundsetzung untersuchten wir das Potential der topischen Dexpanthenol-Anwendung in der Förderung der epidermalen Regeneration und der Wundheilung. Barbara-Isabell Bettzüge-Pfaff, H. Prieur, Nutzen einer adjuvanten Basiscreme bei trockener, atopischer Haut, Kosmetische Medizin 5+6/2006, pp. 261-263. Im Rahmen eines dermatologisch kontrollierten Anwendungstests und hautphysiologischer Messungen an Patienten mit atopischem Ekzem hat sich eine lipidreiche Basiscreme auch bei Kindern als effektive und gut verträgliche Formulierung erwiesen. Nach Anwendung der Creme wurde eine Steigerung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und Hautfettung sowie eine Verbesserung der Hautbarrierefunktionen erreicht. Catherine Lenaers, David Brunet, Katia Ladegaillerie, Magalie Pinel, Brigitte Closs, Influencing the Equilibrium of the Cutaneous Ecosystem to Improve the Properties of Skin Prone to Acne, IFSCC magazine-vol. 9, no 4/2006, pp. 305-310. The skin is colonized by a variety of microorganisms such as Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia furfur that are in a stable balance and form the resident skin flora. The homeostasis of this ecosystem is of fundamental importance since it plays a barrier role by limiting the invasion and growth of pathogenic bacteria on the skin surface. Heike Heinrich, Birgit Garbe, Hagen Tronnier, Marie Béjot, Jean Marc Mauretta, Supplementation with Nutritional Cartilage Extract Positively Influences Skin Hydration, Skin Barrier and Skin Structure: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Study, IFSCC magazine – vol. 9, no 4/2006, pp. 319-323. The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of polysaccharides from fish cartilage with regard to their skin aging properties. An application test was carried out during the intake of cartilage tablets as a nutrinional supplement. Martina Kerscher, Ulrich Amon, Verhinderung des Feuchtigkeitsverlustes, DERMAforum Nr. 11, November 2006. Die neuen Produkte Cetaphil Creme und Cetaphil Lotion sind nach Erkenntnis der vortragenden Hautexperten besonders für trockene, empfindliche und geschädigte Haut geeignet. In der von Frau Prof. Kerscher geleiteten Untersuchung an der Universität Hamburg wurden die Creme und die Lotion H\litlist\studies 12/06 138 in einer 14-tätigen monozentrischen, randomisierten und kontrollierten Studie an 20 Probanden im Alter von 35 bis 64 Jahren getestet. Andre Rougier, Sopie Seite, Clinical efficacy of topically applied vitamin C associated with madecassoside on skin aging, AB28 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Cutaneous aging is a complex biological process that affects the different compartments of the skin. In sun-exposed areas, skin aging is caused by two distinct processes: chronological aging and sun- induced actinic damage, called photoaging. We have previously demonstrated in vivo, the beneficial effect of topically applied vitamin C in the treatment of skin aging. Warren Wallo, Christiane Bertin, Thierry Oddos, Florence Costes Clinical improvement in the appearance of photoaging with a serum containing retinal, AB30 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Vitamin A has been proven to be an important ingredient for improving the appearance of photoaged skin. Products containing retinol are available in various forms, such as creams, gels and lotions, which are applied to the face as part of the daily skin care regimen. Serums represent a new patient preferred form with better aesthetics an an enhanced delivery profile, capable of providing retinol and aging benefits. Nathan Trookman, Ronald Rizer, Rosanne Ford, Ronald Trancik Atopic dermatitis: Advantages of a novel hydrogel vehicle, AB75 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic condition requiring long-term use of medication where patient compliance is essential to treatment success. The vehicle used can substancially affect the active agent’s clinical action, potency and acceptability to the patient. Desonide is a well-known synthetic, non-fluorinated corticosteroid with anti-inflammatory and anti-pruritic properties, currently available in only cream, ointment and lotion formulations. Jonathan Crowther, Paul Matts, Jennifer Jarvis, Quantification of body skin aging requires measuring multiple parameters, AB29 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Background: Changes in skin with increasing age result in alteration of its physical and chemical characteristics. In areas of the body where skin is subjected to mechanical stress from repeated bending (knees, elbows) or to environmental stressors, such as repeated exposure to UV radiation (hands, décolletage), these differences may become more obviously expressed. Marie-Dominique Thouvenin, Virginie Turlier, Valérie Mengeaud, Pierre Morinet, Assessment of efficacy, tolerance and cosmetic acceptability of 0,1% delta-tocopheryl glucoside serum on skin aging, AB84 J AM ACAD DERMATOL A biometrological, open, monocenter study was conduced to assess efficacy, tolerance and cosmetic acceptability of 01,%delta-Tocopheryl glucoside serum in the skin aging treatment. Thirty women between the ages of 35 and 45, with a minimum score of 3 on a 9-point-scale of wrinkles, applied the product twice a day for 8 weeks on the face an on one forearm. A sunscreen pruduct (SPF 50) was provided for sun exposure. Teresa Weber, Alexandra Kowcz, Nathan Trookman, Ronald Rizer Evaluation of a moisturizer containing sodium acetate and urea to ameliorate senile xerosis, AB33 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Objective: to asses the ability of a commercially available moisturizing cream to ameliorate the dry skin condition of subjects 65 to 86 years of age. Methods: in this 7-week, single-blinded, controlled clinical study, 28 subjects with moderate to severe xerosis were treated twice daily for 6 weeks with a moisturizing cream containing 10% urea and 5% sodium lactate. Jean Luc Levy, Lise Agopian, Bernard Chadoutaud, Philippe Msika, Effect of a new cosmetic formulation on reducing cutaneous pigmentation, AB174 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Intracellular signal transduction pathways regulating melanogenesis imply PKC, camp through the activation of PKA and NO. A new whitening formulation that targets these three different pathways, H\litlist\studies 12/06 139 has been tested on melasma with image analysis and a particular interest on the quality of life (QoL) of the volunteers. Hanh Pham, Pearl Grimes, Aruna Parikh, Brian Jones, Efficacy of a skin lightening regimen to improve melasma, AB170 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Melasma is a common disorder of hyper-pigmentation. It is characterized by symmetrical brown-grey pigmentation affecting the cheeks, forehead, upper lips and chin. It impacts all women, although the disease is more commonly observed in darker racial ethnic groups. The condition is more common in areas with intense ultraviolet light exposure. Ronald Rizer, Nathan Trookman, James Herndon, Thomas Stephens, A 4-week, randomized, double- blind, parallel group trial evaluating the efficacy and tolerability of sebum control AB14 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Excessive production of sebum on acne prone individuals often leaves skin with an undesirable appearance that emphasizes facial shine, acne lesions, and enlarged pores. The factors that often contribute to this appearance include family history, hormonal activity changes, stress and the use of certain types of birth control pills. Alain Béguin, Comparative in vivo Reviscometer-RRTM and ultrasonography techniques to assess the anti-ageing efficacy of the Novel MF III of Switzerland Bluecell Extract Serum Gel, Intercosmetica Neuchâtel, Switzerland The anti-ageing properties of a new facial care treatment, MF III of Switzerland Bluecell Extract Serum Gel, were investigated using the shear wave propagation method (multi-angle measurements) and the high-frequency skin ultrasonography, A2-month cosmetic efficacy study was conducted with 29 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 64 (mean 54 years). André Rougier, Gerald Pierard, Nudging acne by topical beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA), a new comedolytic agent, AB15 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA) is a lipophilic derivative of salicyle acid. It exhibits a potent keratolytic effect caused by the dissociation of the comedodesmosomes in the outmost layersof the stratum corneum. In addition, topical applications of a 2% LHA formulation increased the thickness of the epidermal germinative layers, stratum malpighi, and filaggrin layer. Stacy Hawkins, Joanne Alicera, Srinivasan Krishnan, Robert Marriott, Clinical improvement to photoaged skin with conjugated linoleic acid (CIA): A novel cosmetic PPAR lipid for anti-aging benefits, AB15 J AM ACAD DERMATOL Photoaged skin is the manifestation of accumulated skin damage from chronic sun exposure, superimposed upon the chronological aging process. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been a mainstay ingredient in anti-aging products for many years. New products are introduced annually including ingredients such as retinol, retinol derivates, beta hydroxy acids, niacinamide, peptides and prescription retinoids. Tilmann Reuther, Ammal Atwan, Martina Kerscher, Evaluation of skin elasticity using an approach with repeated deformation of the skin, AB15 J AM ACAD DERMATOL One prominent feature of aged skin is the decreased capability of relaxation in particular after repeated deformation. Measuring of this phenomenon appears to be an interesting approach for assessing skin aging. However, comparatively little data dealing with this topic is available. Therefore the aim of the present study is to evaluate skin elasticity after repeated deformation as a measure of skin aging with respect to age and skin thickness. H\litlist\studies 12/06 140 Rungisima Wanitphakdeedecha, Woraphong Manuskiatti, Sasima Eimpunth, Sadwalak Hunnangkul, The effects of single application of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS), AB96 J AM ACAD DERMATOL To study the efficacy on the skin hydration of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS) 0,1% after single application. Twenty female volunteers aged 30 to 45 years with dry skin, defined by the corneometer, were recruited to the study. All subjects were asked to apply 2 g of MPS cream on a selected forearm. Rungisima Wanitphakdeedecha, Woraphong Manuskiatti, Sasima Eimpunth, Sadwalak Hunnangkul, The effects of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS) on the hydration and elasticity of human skin), AB95 J AM ACAD To study the efficacy of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS) in hydration and elasticity of human skin. Methods: Sixty female volunteers aged 30 to 45 years with dry skin, defined by the corneometer, were recruited to the study. The volunteers were randomly treated with MPS and placebo. Toni Miller, Sonia Batra, Jose Ramirez, Evaluation of the effect of a Novel Bi-Mineral Complex on photoexposed periorbital skin, AB32 J AM ACAD The elasticity of the skin is attributable to elastic fibers that can stretch and then recoil. The elastic fibers contain elastin – a large protein synthesized by dermal fibroblasts that forms spiral filaments comparable to springs. The spiral filaments are crosslinked together and, when the skin is stretched, this crosslinking enables the spiral filaments to spring back to their original positions. Luz Colon, Ronald Rizer, Lori Johnson, Nathan Trookman, Corneometric assessment of skin hydration following the application of Metronidazole 1% Gel, AB13 J AM ACAD Rosacea is a skin condition characterized by unsightly redness on the face, sometimes accompanied by acne-like papules and pustules. Symtom flares are most often triggered by spicy foods, sun exposure or irritating skin products. Accordingly, the irritation potential of any topical treatment prescribed for rosacea patients should be considered. Fernanda Distante, Valerie Pagani, Adriana Bonifigli, Luigi Rigano, Joachim Fluhr, Objective evaluation of the placebo effect in cosmetic treatments. A randomized controlled study, IFSCC Magazine – vol. 9, no 3/2006 A product’s packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotions during the use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a given cosmetic treatment. Maggie Fox, It’s true – Stress Makes Teens Break Out, 2007 ABC News Internet Ventures Teen-Agers who claim that stress makes them break out are telling the truth: The stress of taking an exam can make pimples worse, researchers reported on Tuesday. And surprisingly, inflammation may be to blame and not greasy skin, sait Dr. Gil Yosipovitch, a professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University School of Medicine. Gil Yosipovitch, Mark Tang, Aerlyn G. Dawn, Mark Chen, Chee Leok Goh, Yiong Huak Chang, Lim Fong Seng, Study of Psychological Stress, Sebum Production and Acne Vulgaris in Adolescents, Acta Dermato-Venereologica, Volume 87, Issue 2, March 2007, pp. 135-139 Sebum production is though to play a major role in acne vulgaris in adolescents. Psychological stress may exacerbate acne; however, it is not known whether the perceived association between stress and acne exacerbation is due to increased sebum production. Reto Muggli, Systemic Evening Primrose Oil for Irritated Skin Care, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 122, No. 2/February 2007 Dry skin is a common complaint from men and women alike and its incidence and severity increase with age. This condition is the result of an impaired barrier function, increased transepidermal water H\litlist\studies 12/06 141 loss (TEWL) and a significantly lower level of ceramides in the horny layer that causes the skin to lose an excessive amount of water. A. Firooz, F. Gorouhi, P. Davari, M. Atarod, S. Hekmat, M. Rashighi-Firoozabadi, A. Solhpour Comparison of hydration, sebum and pH values in clinically normal skin of patients with atopic dermatitis and healthy controls, 2007 The Author(s), Journal compilation, Blackwell Publishing Ltd. The water content of the stratum corneum and skin surface lipids forms a balance that is important for the appearance and function of the skin. An impaired balance may lead to the clinical manifestations known as “dry skin”, which is particularly seen in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD). Kazue Tsukahara, Mitsuyuki Hotta, Tsutomu Fujimura, Keiichi Haketa, Takashi Kitahara, Effect of room humidity on the formation of fine wrinkles in the facial skin of Japanese, Skin Research and Technology 2007, 13, pp. 184 – 188 Changes in humidity are commonly known to influence the condition of the skin. Previous studies of the skin dealt with variations in relative humidity (RH) either through statistical analysis or by maintaining room humidity at a constant level; however, the range of humidity and the length of acclimation varied in each study. Laurence Ambroisine, Khaled Ezzedine, Anissa Elfakir, Sophie Gardinier, Julie Latreille, Emmanuelle Mauger, Michel Tenenhaus, Christiane Guinot, Relationships between visual and tactile features and biophysical parameters in human facial skin, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13: pp. 176 – 183 Skin properties, such as colour, hydration and texture, can be studied on a qualitative basis by a clinical assessment or on a quantitative basis using techniques thaqt measure biophysical properties of the skin. The aim of this study was to explore the links between facial skin features and a range of skin biophysical parameters using multivariate methods. Hristo Dobrev, Evaluation of dry Skin: a comparison between visual score, corneometry and image analysis, Poster presented at the 16 th Congress of the EADV, 5/2007 The term “dry skin” describes a skin condition characterized by reduced quantity and/or quality of moisture and/or lipids. The visible symptoms of dry skin are roughness, scaling and reduced elasticity. In addition, patiens complain about tightness and itching. Dr. Horst Frank, Dr. E. Schubert, Dr. H. Konrad, Dr. A. Eggert, Biokybernetik - ein sanfter Weg zur Gewebestraffung und Körperformung, Ästhetische Dermatologie 2/2007, pp. 44 – 47 Dysformien, Alterungsprozesse, Schönheit und ewige Jugend. Die Angst des Menschen vor dem Altern ist sicherlich der wichtigste Beweggrund, „forever young“ zu sein. Daran hat sich über die Jahrhunderte nichts geändert. Das heute vorherrschende gesteigerte Körperbewußtsein in Verbindung mit einer erfreulich gesteigerten Lebenserwartung und einer bis ins hohe Alter erhaltenen körperlichen und geistigen Fitness lassen diesen Wunsch jedoch immer mächtiger werden. R. Moyon, K. Golz, L. Zastrow, The Formulation of a Distinctive Skin Care Product, SÖFW- Journal / 133 / 4-2007, pp. 2 – 9 First of all, we drew up the requirements of our new skin care product. Our reasoning was to formulate a benchmark emulsion with all the properties previously identified. To do this we mainly used raw materials from silicone chemistry to obtain a stable finished product with the remarkable properties observed on the market. Walaiorn Pratchyapruit, Katsuki Kikuchi, Pimonpun Gritiyarangasan, Setsuya Aiba, Hachiro Tagami, Functional analyses of the eyelid skin constituting the most soft and smooth area on the face: H\litlist\studies 12/06 142 contribution of ist remarkably large superficial corneocytes to effective water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum, Skin Research and Technology 2007, 13, pp. 169 – 175 The eyelid constitutes a unique area on the face because of its soft, smooth and thin skin distinct from that of other facial portions. Its softness facilitates their easy compliance to blinking movement, which is indispensable to protect the wet surface of the eyeball. Moreover, the skin of the eyelid does not show any prominent follicular orifices of an oily appearance even in adults. Hongbo Zhai, Emi Dika, Marina Goldovsky, Howard I. Maibach Tape-stripping method on man: comparison of evaporimetric methods, Skin Research an Technology 2007, pp. 207-210 If the occlusion time of a closed chamber evaporimeter on the skin is too long, saturation might occur. We previously compared an open chamber and a closed chamber device on healthy volunteers. Comparable data on stripped skin with higher evaporation rates are not available. H. Lambers, S. Piessens, A. Bloem, H. Pronk, P. Finkel, Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora, IFSCC Magazine-vol. 10, no 1/2007, p. 84 Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4,0 to 7,0. In a multic centre study (N=330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24h. U. Gönu Llü, D. Sensoy, M. Üner, G. Yener, T. Altinkurt, Comparing the moisturizing effects of ascorbic acid and calcium ascorbate against that of tocopherol in emulsions, IFSCC Magazine – vol. 10, no 1/2007, pp. 91-92 Calcium ascorbate (CAAS), which is a hydrophilic and stable derivative of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) (AA), is commonly used on foods as an antioxidative agent. There are very limited reports on its dermatological use in the literature. In this paper, it is reported that CAAS could be used in place of ascorbic acid, which has chemical stability problems in topicals due to degradation by oxidation. R. Bazin, C. Fanchon, Equivalence of face and volar forearm for the testing of moisturizing and firming effect of cosmetics in hydration and biomechanical studies, IFSCC Magazine – vol. 10, no 1/2007, p. 86 The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties perfomed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Thwo short-term (1h) and two long- term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteers with dry skin. Kunio Shimada, Koji Awai, Hirofumi Irie, Ceramide Polymer improves skin texture, Personal Care, May 2007, pp. 47-50 Anti-ageing cosmetics are increasingly demanded today. Many consumers, especially women, care about keeping their skin young by controlling wrinkles and freckles and keeping their skin soft, firm, smooth and beautifully white. Ingredients for controlling the ageing of the skin are demanded and are actively studied. Kazue Tsukahara, Mitsuyuki Hotta, Tsutomu Fujimura, Keiichi Haketa, Takashi Kitahara, Effect of room humidity on the formation of fine wrinkles in the facial skin of Japanese, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 184-188 Changes in humidity are commonly known to influence the condition of the skin. Previous studies of the skin dealt with variations in relative humidity (RH) either through statistical analysis or by maintaining room humidity at a constant level: however, the range of humidity and the length of acclimation varied in each study. Isaak Wontroba, Der Einfluss von linear polarisiertem Licht auf Hauttemperatur, Hautwasserabgabe und sudomotorische Aktivität, Digitale Dissertation FU Berlin, pp. 1-37 H\litlist\studies 12/06 143 Zur Untersuchung, welche Auswirkungen inkohärentes polarisiertes Licht (VIP = visible incoherent polarized light) auf die menschliche Haut zeigt, sind in unterschiedlichen Messreihen an insgesamt 48 Probanden Veränderungen von Evaporation und Temperatur über der Haut des Unterschenkels in einem Messzylinder (Tewameter) untersucht worden. Verwendet wurde eine im Rahmen der VIP- Lichttherapie eingesetzte Lichtquelle der Firma Bioptron. Lawrence Ambroisine, Khaled Ezzedine, Anissa Elfakir, Sophie Gardinier, Julie Latreille, Emmanuelle Mauger, Michel Tenenhaus, Christiane Guinot, Relationships between visual and tactile features and biophysical parameters in human facial skin, Skin Research Technology 2007; 13: pp. 176-183 Skin properties, such as colour, hydration and texture, can be studied on a qualitative basis by a clinical assessment or on a quantitative basis using techniques that measure biophysical properties of the skin. The aim of this study was to explore the links between facial skin features and a range of skin biophysical parameters using multivariate methods. Walaiorn Pratchyapruit, Katsuko Kikuchi, Pimonpun Gritiyrangasan, Setsuya Aiba, Hachiro Tagami, Functional analyses of the eyelid skin constituting the most soft and smooth area on the face: contribution of ist remarkably large superficial corneocytes to effective water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 169-175 The eyelid constitutes a unique area on the face because of its soft, smooth and thin skin distinct from that of other facial portions. Its softness facilitates their easy compliance to blinking movement, which is indispensable to protect the wet surface of the eyeball. Moreover, the skin of the eyelid does not show any prominent follicular orifices of any oily aapearance even in adults. Pascale Quatresooz, Emmanuelle Xhauflaire-Uhoda, Claudine Piérard-Franchimont, Gérald E. Piérard, Regional variability in stratum corneum reactivity to antiseptic formulations, Contact Dermatitis 2007; 56; pp. 271-273 Skin does not react in an identical way to the action of chemicals over all anatomic sites. Accordingly, distinct regional differences have been described in relation to irritancy. The present study assesses the regional variations of stratum corneum (SC) reactivity to 3 proprietary antiseptic solutions. D. Segger, U. Aßmus, M. Brock, J. Erasmy, P. Finkel, A. Fitzner, H. Heuss, U. Kortemeier, S. Munke, T. Rheinländer, H. Schmidt-Lewerkühne, Multicenter Study on Measurement of the Natural pH of the Skin Surface, IFSCC Magazine – vol. 10, no 2/2007, pp. 107-110 Characterization of the skin’s natural state is very important for understanding skin functions and describing disturbances of skin function. In the field of cosmetics and dermatologicals the natural pH of the skin surface plays an important role in the development of products with a skin neutral pH. Farina Hashmi, James Malone-Lee, Measurement of skin elasticity on the foot, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13, pp. 252-258 The Cutometer 580 MPA is a device that is designed to measure the viscoelastic properties of skin in response to the application of negative pressure. The aim of this study was to test the Cutometer 580 MPA for the repeatable, quantitative measurement of the specific indices of elasticity of pedal skin. Sungyeon Ahn, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang, Correlation between a Cutometer and quantitative evaluation using Moire topography in age-related skin elasticity, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 280-284 As aging occurs, our skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging such as wrinkles. So it is needed tha the method for measuring skin elasticity is able to reflect perception about the change of the skin state. H\litlist\studies 12/06 144 R. Voegeli, J. Heiland, S. Doppler, A.V. Rawlings, T. Schreier, Efficient and simple quantification of stratum corneum proteins on tape strippings by infrared densitometry, Skin Research and Technology 2007, 13; pp. 242-251 The analysis of stratum (SC) components is a widely accepted method to determine “skin health” status or to follow the effects of topical treatments. These analytes are normally corrected to the amount of SC removed which can be determined gravimetrically or by extraction of SC proteins and their subsequent analysis. M. Kerscher, T. Reuther, G. Schramm, Chlormadinonacetat enthaltende Mikropille verbessert unreine Haut, Frauenarzt 48 (2007), Nr. 4, pp. 373-378 Moderne Mikropillen zeichnen sich besonders durch eine Reihe von Zusatznutzen aus. Den wichtigsten stellt die Verbesserung des Hautbildes dar. Für die Chlormadinonacetat-haltige Mikropille Belara wurde in klinischen, kontrollierten Studien bei leichter bis mittelschwerer Akne die Überlegenheit im Vergleich zu einer Levonorgestrel-haltigen Mikropille und zu Plazebo nachgewiesen. Caroline Maria Weimer, Irritation durch Waschen und Desinfizieren, Digitale Bibliothek der Universität Marburg, 2006 Ziel dieser Studie war die Irritaion der Haut, hervorgerufen durch alkoholische Desinfektionsmittel und das Detergens Natriumlaurylsulfat (0,5% NLS) in einem repetitiven Testdesign zu untersuchen. Mittels nicht invasiver Untersuchungsmethoden quantifizierten wir die irritativen Effekte von Sterillium, 2-Propanol 45% v/v, 1-Propanol 30% v/v, welches die alkoholische Grundlage von Sterillium darstellt sowie von Wasser und NLS 0,5%. E. Esposito, M. Drechsler, P. Mariani, E. Sivieri, R. Bozzini, L. Montesi, E. Menegatti, R. Cortesi Nanosystems for skin hydration: a comparative study, IFSCC magazine – vol. 10, no 2/2007, pp. 173-174 The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been investigated by means of electron microscopy and photon correlation spectroscopy. C. Rosado, P. Pinto, L.M. Rodrigues, Comparative assessment of the performance of two generations of Tewameter: TM210 and TM300, Blackwell Synergy, Int J Cosmet Sci, Volume 27, Issue 4, pp. 237ff. The mesurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been established as one of the main parameters in the assessment of skin barrier function. One of the most widely employed devices to measure TEWL is the Tewameter. Courage and Khazaka launched the TM300 in 2003 and successfully eliminated some of the limitations of the previous model. J. Fluhr, What’s Wrong with the Barrier, Dermatologie in Beruf und Umwelt, Jahrgang 55, Nr. 2/2007, p. 67 Irritant contact dermatitis is frequently observed not only in occupational dermatology but also in the context of atopic dermatitis and under house-hold conditions. Functional analysis of epidermal barrier- related parameters are performed using non-invasive instruments, based on biophysical measurements. E. Berardesca, Bioengineering as a Tool in Occupational Dermatology, Dermatologie in Beruf und Umwelt, Jahrgang 55, Nr. 2/2007, p. 67 Bioengineering techniques have been proven to be helpful in monitoring changes in skin physiology and quantifying skin disease. Detection of subliminal or non visual changes is a challenge in order to predict potentially pathological conditions such as irritation or pre-clinical dermatitis. H\litlist\studies 12/06 145 W. Gehring, New Concept of Skin Protection after Occlusion and Wet Work, Dermatologie in Beruf und Umwelt, Jahrgang 55, Nr. 2/2007, p. 67 Occlusion and wet work induce barrier damage, increasing the risk for the development of contact dermatitis. The use of adstringent agents before exposure to the noxious conditions does not always provide sufficient protection. Gabriele Betz, University of Basel, Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology, Basel Switzerland, In Vivo Comparison of Various Liposomal Formulations for Cosmetic Application, IcoS, June 2007, Istanbul Türkiye, pp. 14-16 Liposomal formulations have been used for skin moisturization, due to the occlusive effect of a phospholipid film deposited on the skin surface. Furthermore, interactions between liposoal lipids and Stratum corneum lipids may affect positively the structure of the Stratum corneum. Phospholipids themselves are hygroscopic and bind water. Slaheddine Marrakchi, Howard I. Maibach, Biophysical parameters of skin: map of human face, regional, and age-related differences, Contact Dermatitis 2007; 57, pp. 28-34 The face showed anatomical variation on reaction to chemicals, which could be related to differences in biophysical parameters. 10 young human volunteers (24-34 years) and 10 old volunteers (66-83 years) were studied to prepare a map of the human face based on regional variations and age-related differences by measuring various biophysical parameters. M. Paye, S. Mac-Mary, A. Elkhayat, C. Tarrit, P. Mermet, P.H. Humbert, Use of the Reviscometer for measuring cosmetics-induced skin surface effects; Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 343-349 Many different non-invasive instruments are available to evaluate the mechanical properties of the skin, characterized by different measuring approaches which include tensile, torsional, indentation or suction skin deformations. An indirect approach consists in studying the propagation mode of a shock or acoustic shear wave along the skin surface. E.C. Ruvolo Jr. , G.N. Stamatas, N. Kollias, Skin Viscoelasticity Displays Site- and Age-Dependent Angular Anisotropy; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2007-11-13, pp. 1-9 One of the dominant characteristics of skin aging is loss of elasticity. Although the changes in the mechanical properties of the skin over several decades of life are substantial, objective measurements have failed to capture their magnitude thus far. Moreover, the mechanical properties of the skin are not uniform in all directions, and there is a need to understand this angular anisotropy. Su-Han Kim, Margaret Song, Byung-Soo Kim, Hyun-Chang Ko, Sung-Jun Kim et al., Moisturizing and anti-pruritic effects of pyroligneous liquid and petrolatum cream in atopic dermatitis, The Journal of Skin Barrier Research, pp. 42-48 Atojoa cream used in this study contains active ingredients such as pyroligneous liquid and variety of minerals, in a newly-made emulsified petrolatum base. In general, petrolatum is known as an excellent moisturizer, but occlusive effect restricts ventilation. To preserve ventilation properties, we emulsified the petrolatum by an ultrasonic emulsification method without wax nor other oils. Young Min Park, Change of skin barrier function after cosmetic procedures; microdermabrasion, chemical peeling and LASER, The Journal of Skin Barrier Research, pp. 32-36 With the recent interest in aesthetics, cosmetic procedures for facial rejuvenation such as microdermabrasion, superficial chemical peeling, and LASER, are the preferred methods because they have a low morbidity and prompt recovery. These therapeutic methods offer the benefit of patient H\litlist\studies 12/06 146 returning to a normal daily life immediately after the procedure, bnut do not have a satisfactory outcome after a single session, which means that repeated procedures are required at regular interval. Eunjoo Kim, Gae Won Nam, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang, Influence of polyol and oil concentration in cosmetic products on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness, Skin Research and Technology 2007, 13; pp. 417-424 Cosmetic products are used to improve the skin surface appearance. Especially, moisturizers increase the hydration of the stratum corneum and improve the physical and chemical properties of the skin surface, making it moist, smooth and soft. Smoothing of the surface can be observed immediately after application of a moisturizer as a result of the filling of spaces beween partially desquamated skin flakes. University of Basel, Inst. of Pharmaceutical Technology, In Vivo Comparison of Various Liposomal Formulations for Cosmetic Application, 7 th Int. Cosmetic Symposium (IcoS), 20-22 June 2007, Istanbul Türkiye Liposomal formulations hae been used for skin moisturization, due to the occlusive effect of a phospholipid film deposited on the skin surface. Furthermore, interactions between liposomal lipids and Stratum corneum lipids may affect positively the structure of the Stratum corneum. Phospholipids themselves are hygroscopic and bin water. Gabriel Khazaka, Useful and practical advice by measuring TEWL and skin moisture with Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 300, The Journal of Skin Barrier Research The Skin bioengineering measurement of skin hydration and transepidermal water loss is a useful tool to evaluate the physicochemical status of skin. As integrated skin barrier function is also derived from the interaction between subject and surrounding environment, the bioengineering measurement technique has been evolved to predict the dynamic aspect of skin biology. Susun An, Eunyoung Lee, Seunghun Kim et al. Comparison and correlation between stinging responses to lactic acid and bioengineering parameters, Contact Dermatitis 2007; 57; pp. 158-162 Sensitive skin has been described as a skin type showing higher reactivity than normal skin. By our consumer surveys, approximately 30% of the subjects believe that they have sensitive skin. However, consumer-perceived cutaneous reactions are usually scientifically unconfirmed. Gabriele Feller-Heppt, Christina Wagner, Selma Ugurel, Wirksamkeit und Patientenzufriedenheit verschiedener Pflegecremes bei Atopikern und Neurodermitispatienten im erscheinungsfreien Intervall, Kosmetische Medizin 5/2007, pp. 28-34 Bei Neurodermitispatienten stehen vor allem die Symptome trockene Haut und ausgeprägter Juckreiz im Vordergrund. Hierdurch kommt es zu vermehrtem Kratzen und nachfolgend möglicherweise zum Eintritt infektiöser Erreger bei gestörter Hautbarrierefunktion und gestörter zellulärer Immunität. Ein neuer Ekzemschub kann entstehen und den Juckreiz noch verstärken. ZD Draelos, Wake Forst University School of Medicine, USA The Skin Barrier Function in Rosacea Patients is Preserved with the Use of a Gentle, Non-alkaline Skin Cleanser, 21st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Rosacea occurs most commonly in women with fair complexions between the age of 25 and 50 years, although it does occur in other patient populations as well. Rosacea appears as redness similar in appearance to sunburn and can be accompanied by papules and pustules. M. Andreas, R. Bilenchi, G. Mariotti, M. Centini, L. Andreassi, C. Anselmi Phytic Acid: a Novel Topically Active Antioxidant Suitable for Cosmetic Preparations, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Many substances with antioxidant activity are present in the human skin, and their concentrations are generally higher in the epidermis than in the dermis. Under the effect of an oxidative stress, such as that caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays, these substances are strongly depleted, especially in the external epidermal layer. H\litlist\studies 12/06 147 Bayerl, T. Walker, M. Arens-Corell, Dermatologically controlled in-use test of sebamed soap-free washing bar in a daily care unit, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Suitability and tolerability of a soap-free washing bar for cleansing was evaluated in patients with skin diseases. Recruitment of volunteers included consecutive patiens of an outpatient, daily care unit of a dermatological hospital. B. Piot, J. De Rigal, C. Yarhi, D. Compan-Zaouati, M. Lefebvre, The skin sebageous function: in Asian and Caucasian climate influences, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Objective of the study: The first objective was to compare the sebaceous function in Asian and Caucasians, female, in real life conditions, using both intrumental measurement and visual evalutation by expert. A second objective was to investigate climate induced changes in the sebaceous function on a separate group of Japanese women, using the same methodology. ZD. Draelos, Skin barrier and desquamation in Patiens with mild plaque Psoriasis is improved with the use of a gentle moisturizing cream, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Psoriasis is a disorder characterized by faster than normal skin growth and replacement. The result of this rapid skin growth and replacement is a build-up of red, thickened areas with a scaly appearance. The most commonly affected areas are the scalp, elbows, knees and back. These plaques are often dry and non-pliable areas on the skin that can be a source of pain and/or discomfort to affected individuals. V. Delvigne, E. Segot, D. Compan-Zaouati,P.Wolkenstein, S. Consoli, C. Rodary et al, Development and Validation of a Questionnaire to Evaluate How a Cosmetic Product for Oily Skin is Able to Improve Well Being in Women, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Purpose of the study: To develop and validate a questionnaire to assess the psychological and psychosocial effects of oily skin condition in women and the outcome of a targeted cosmetic skin care treatment. Methods: We developed a concise 18-item questionnaire (OSSIQ), including 2 dimensional scales (emotional state and social behaviour), to assess the impact on self image and conficence of oily skin condition. C. Orlandi, R. Loubies, S. Baeza, C. Reyes, X. Worstman, Clinical Experience of the Treatment with Pro-Xylane TM, Isobioline TM and Phytocomplex TM on Chilean Women with Hormonal Aging, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina An open and prospective study was performed in order to evaluate the action of a formulation with pro-xylane, isobioline and phyto-Complex in 59 patients with hormonal aging during a period of twelve weeks. An open and prospective study was peformed in 59 patients, between 50 and 65 years of age (average 55 years old), with hormonal aging in order to evaluate the action of a formulation with –xylane, isobioline and phyto-complex. P. Msika, S. Bredif, S. Garnier, J. Legrand, Oligosaccharidic and Peptidic Extract from Maca Root: A new Cell Energizer With Clinical Anti-Aging Properties, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Purpose of the study: Maca (Lepidium meyenii) was an integral part of the diet and commerce of residents of Andes region. The Incas found maca root so potent that they restricted Maca use to their Royalty. Now days, maca powder is used worldwide as nutraceutical ingredient. We have developed and patented an oligosaccharidic and peptidic extract obtained by a biotechnological process from maca flour. N. Garcia Bartels, A. Mieczko, H. Proquitté, R. Wauer, T. Schink, Ul Blume-Peytavi, Influence of Bathing in Newborns: A Prospective, Randomized Clinical Study on Skin Barrier During the First Four Weeks of Life, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Background: The adapting process of skin barrier to extra-uterine life and the influence of bathing on term neonates’s skin is not completely understood. Thus, we investigated the effect of bathing on skin H\litlist\studies 12/06 148 barrier during the first four weeks of life. Methods: Monocenter, prospective, randomised study with 57 healthy full-term newborns (32 boys and 25 girls). JW. Fluhr, M. Miteva, G. Primavera, M. Ziemer, P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, Functional Assessment of an Acidic Skin Care System in Patients under Chemotherapy, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Background: Cancer patients undergoing chemotherapy frequently experience skin problems e.g. xerosis. The aim of this study was to verify whether a concomitant treatment with an acidic washing and emollient products (pH 5.5) can significantly improve the quality of the skin in such patients. C. Oresajo, M. Yatskayer, H. Fares, T. Stephens, I. Hansenne, A Twelve-Week, Clinical Evaluation of the Skin Firming Benefits of a Topical Product Containing Hyaluronic Acid and Oligo Peptides on the Face, Neck, Upper Chest and Hands, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Purpose of the study: The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy and safety of a test product on subjects with mild to moderate photodamage on the face, neck, upper chest and hands. Methods: 69 female volunteers between the ages 35 to 65 years with mild to moderate photodamage on the face and hands (scores 3-8 on a 10cm scale) were enrolled in 12-week single-center study. L. Kapteine, R. Karls, Benefit of Keratolytic and Barrier Repair Emollients in Treating Lamellar Ichtyosis Patient, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina Background: Lamellar Ichtiyosis (LI) is characterised by generalised scaling, decrease of skin barier function and resistance to ordinary emollients. Our case report include to assess and compare keratolytic agents 5%, lactic acid and 20% propylene glycol effect on LI patients skin, to find an optimal variant of skin care by combining keratolytic and skin restoring means. P. Manissier, C. Fanchon, N. Piccardi, Combination of Lycopene, Soy Isoflavones & Vitamin C: a Unique Efficient Oral Supplement to Prevent Skin Ageing, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Aim: The purpose is to present a set of in vitro and in vivo studies showing the potential of the unique combination of lycopene, soy isoflavones and vitamin C to stimulate cell renewal and prevent skin ageing. Methods: in vitro studies involved two skin models, i.e. an in vitro reconstructed epidermis (EPISKIN) and skin explants in culture. Skin explants were obtained from plastic surgery in menopausal women. Each ingredient of the combination was introduced at plasmatic concentration level in the culture medium to mimic systemic administration. C. Montastier, A. Piccirilli, PH. Humbert, B. Dreno, N. Piccaqrdi, P. Manissier, Efficacy of a Dietary Supplement Against Skin Dryness, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 A specific nutritional supplement (NS) containing blackcurrant seed and fish oils, rich in omega-3 and –6 fatty acids, vitamins E and C and lycopene was developed. These nutrients are known for their key role in the maintenance of skin homeostasis. In particular they have been shown, in vitro, to improve ceramides in the epidermis and skin barrier function. The purpose of this presentation is to summarize studies that support the efficacy of this nutritional supplement. Y. Appa, S. Hornby, G. Grove, C. Zerweck, Glycerin Mitigates Surfactant Induced Barrier Disruption, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Background/Objective: The effect of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) on the skin barrier was explored in an epidermal skin model where skin barrier breaks could be visualized using two photon fluorescence (TPM) imaging. Other data from that study allowed us to calculate the dimensions of the damage. We found that glycerin was superior compared to urea and propylene glycol in mitigating the SLS induced barrier damage as evidenced by the lack of visual barrier breaks. OL. Jammayrac, B. Boussouira, T. Vuillet, C. Camus et al, Fragile Lips-A Biochemical Insight, , 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 H\litlist\studies 12/06 149 Background/Objectives: Fragile lips are characterized by feelings of discomfort, presence of scales, cracking and bleeding to different extents of severity. The most severe class “very fragile lip” is predominantly observed on younger women. In the present study, the young female population was targeted in order to further investigate the biochemical profile of fragile lips. 67 French women (age: 19-35 yrs) were investigated. A standardized clinical questionnaire targeting the vermilion, with items on the signs and symptoms, occurrence and conditions linked to these signs and symptoms was collected from the subjects. AV. Anstey, A. Carter, K. Wyness, M. Kalavala, C. Edwards, A Study to Assess the Use of TL01 Dose Response Curves to Inform an Incremental Regimen for Narrow Band UVB Phototherapy in Psoriasis, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Variation in narrow-band UVB (nbUVB) psoriasis treatment regimens between phototherapy units affects the starting dose, the dosage increments and the ceiling dose. In the UK it is now standard practice in most units to determine the minimal erythema dose (MED) on unaffected skin before phototherapy commences, which informs the starting dose selected for each patient. A dose-response curve for each patient can easily be constructed from the MED dose series without additional UVB irradiation. CG. Sason, VM Verallo-Rowell, The Efficacy and Safety of Illuminants Anti-Perspirant with Gigawhite Versus Vehicle for Axillary Hyperpigmentation: a Double Blind, Parallel Group, Randomized Clinical Trial, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Axillary Hyperpigmentation is a significant cosmetic concern of people with skin of color, most especially those of women. The objective of this study wa to determine the efficacy and safety of illuminants Anti-perspirant with Gigawhite in the treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation. This study utilized a double blind randomised parallel group design. N. Chua-Vivar, EJ. Masa, E. Handog, MS. Obleplass, A Prospective Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial on Efficacy of 10% Vitamin C Solution, Applied Using Iointophoresis Technology, in The Treatment of Melasma in Filipino Women, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Background/Objective: Melasma is one of the major cosmetic concerns among Asians and Hispanics. Among management options, hydroquinone has gained wide application despite the increasing incidence of adverse effects associated with its use, even in preparations of lower potency. Iontophoresis, a modality for enhancing drug penetration, is considered safe, effective, non-invasive and in combination with whitening agents is purported as safer alternatives in treating melasma. P. Msika, JL. Levy, L. Agopian-Simoneau, B. Chadoutaud, Effect of a New Cosmetic Formulation on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation: A Clinical And Biometrological Approach, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Intracellular signal transduction pathways regulating melanogenesis imply PKC, camp through the activation of PKA and NO. A new whitening formulation, that targets these three different pathways, have been tested on melasma, with image analysis and a particular interest on the Qualiy of Life (QoL) of the volunteers. The tested product was a cosmetic cream containing protein kinase C (PKC) and protein kinase A (PKA) inhibitors, vitamins E and C. C. Grolsman, C. Selem, S. Pérez Damonte, N. Delic. P. López, Etidronic Acid a New Concept of Action for an Actie Ingredient of Conventional Use, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Study Purpose: The aimof this study is the Etidronic Acid use (EA). This active ingredient is a biphosphonate, the 1-Hidroxyethylidene-1, 1-di-phosphonic Acid. This active ingredient is well known in the medical field an its application in different treatments. EA ist also listed as an ingredient of several cosmetic formulations such as soap bars and shampoos. H\litlist\studies 12/06 150 S. Cho, DH. Lee, CH Won, S. Lee, MJ Lee, JH Chung, A Rondomized, Double-Blind Clinical Trial on the Clinical Efficacy of Oral Supplementation with Chlorophyll Extracts on Skin Aging, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 Chlorophyll, a polyene photoreceptor of plants, is known to have anti-inflammatory effects. Though its beneficial roles on aged skin were reported, there have been few systematic studies. The aim of this study is to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of dietary chlorophyll extract supplementation on aging skin. Thirty healthy females (aged more thean 45) were randomised to take low-dose or high- dose dietary supplementation containing chlorophyll extracts for 12 weeks. E. Gubanova, L. Caisey, C. Camus, D. Barras, JL. Lévêque, Influence of Age on Features and Functional Properties of Lips, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 There are very few reported works about ageing of lips and the perioral skin. This body area has however great functional and aesthetic importance. It is also a peculiar transitional tissue area between skin and mucosa. Purpose of the study: The present study was carried out to objectively describe the different changes occurring in the functional properties of the vermilion (hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), mechanical properties, colour and tactile sensivity) and to compare these changes with those occurring in the skin. R. Yankova Skin Photoirritation and Provoked Pigmentation Rates Related to Topical Anti-Acne Agents, 21 st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007 To investigate the skin photoirritation and pigmentation due to anti-acne topical treatments we enrolled fifty volunteers in a study to evaluate the UV erythema after applying ten anti-acne formulations. 3%, 5% and 10% benzoyl peroxide gel. 0,01 %, 0.025% and 0.05% tretinoin cream, 3% tetracycline hydrochloride ointment, 1% clindamycine phosphate lotion, 1,2% zinc acetate dihydrate + 4% erythromycin lotion, and 20% azelaic acid cream. Yan Cheng, Yi-ynag Dong, Mei-xian Dong, Chao Wang et al; Protection effect of cosmetics on human skin under simulated rigorous environment, Skin Research and Technology 2008, 14, pp. 45-52 The efficacy of cosmetics on human skin measured under normal mild laboratory environment might be discounted by exterior environment factors such as wind, UV exposure, etc. Few studies have focused on the “genuine” efficacy of cosmetics on human skin during exposure to external rigorous environment. H.K. Lee, Y.K. Seo, J.H. Baek, J.S. Koh Comparison between ultrasonography (Dermascan C version 3) and transparency profilometry (Skin Visiometer SV600), Skin Research and Technology 2008; 14, pp. 8-12 A recently developed method to estimate skin smoothness is the replica method, which may have the limitation of the roughness difference of actual skin due to the skin-replicating process. Therefore, observation of dermal layer change is very important. For this purpose, ultrasonic display equipment is generally used. S.H. Lim, S.M. Kim, Y.W. Lee, K.J. Ahn, Y.B. Choe Change of biophysical properties of the skin caused by ultraviolet radiation-induced photodamage in Koreans, Skin Research and Technology 2008; 14, pp. 93-102 Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation affects the function and complecion of the skin by inducing changes in physical properties through formation of erythema, proliferation of epithelial cells, DNA damage, activation or inactivation of various enzymes and proteins, and free radical formation. In this study, the authors intended to observe the overall course of changes in barrier function and reflectance of the skin induced by photodamage, and healing reaction in the course of time, and alteration of skin complexion. H\litlist\studies 12/06 151 Naveed Akhtar, Gulfishan Ahmed, Mahmood Ahmed, Nazar Ranjha, Ahmad Mahmood, Grapefruit Extract Cream: Effects on Melanin and Skin, Cosmetics and Toiletries magazine, Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008, pp. 55-68 Emulsions are thermodynmically unstable systems defined as microscopic dispersions of liquid droplets contained within another liquid, with a diameter ranging from 0.5 to 100 um. Emulsions usually consist of mixtures of an aqueous phase with various oils or waxes. G. Maaß, Anwendungsstudie der sebamed TROCKENE HAUT Produkte bei Kindern mit atopischem Ekzem, Kosmetische Medizin 6/2007, pp. 288-290 Es erfolgte in einer vierwöchigen Anwendungsuntersuchung eine klinische Überprüfung der sebamed TROCKENE HAUT Pflegeprodukte – Waschlotion, Pflegelotion, Tagescreme und Nachtcreme – bei Kindern mit atopischem Ekzem anhand von quantitativen Meßgrößen, von klinischen Befundurteilen sowie von qualitativen Beurteilungen der Pflegewirkungen. Arturo Puig, Jos´w Maria García Antón, Montserrat Mangues A new Decorin-like Tetrapeptide for Optimal Organization of Collagen Fibers, IFSCC Magazine – vol. 10, no 4/2007 Decorin interacts with collagen via its protein core and influences collagen fibrillogenesis, thus regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. As skin ages, there is a lack of functional decorin which results in disrupted collagen fibers and a reduction in the tensile stregth of the skin. Therefore, a substitute for decorin would make up for the non-functional decorin that is present as we age. Hautpflege für Diabetiker, www.wohlundwehe.de, page 20 Täglich sieben Einstiche in die Hautoberfläche für Blutzuckermessungen und Injektionen sind bei insulinabhängigen Diabetikern für eine gute Zuckereinstellung mindestens notwendig. Wie mag die Haut nach tausenden von Einstichen aussehen? Diese Frage ging der Kosmetikerin Kerstin Völkeining, die das Problem aus vielen Jahren Tätigkeit im Gesundheitswesen kannte, jahrelang nicht aus dem Kopf. Christian Oresjo, Margarita Yatskayer, Angelike Galdi, Nathan S. Trookman, et al. Multi-Center, Clinical Evaluation of a Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Moisturizer Containing a new Photostable UVA/UVB Complex for Treatment of Photodamaged Facial Skin, www.lorealusa.com; Poster Photoaging is the result of chronic cumulative exposure to UV radiation. UVB radiation changes throughout the year and according to location, whreas UVA radiation is less variable. UVA rays are lower in energy than UVB, however they are twenty times more abundant. Efficient and stable broad spectrum protection is therefore needed year round for adequate protection against photoaging. Viele Blender – Gesichtscremes mit UV-Schutz. Auf den Lichtschutz in Gesichtscremes kann man sich oft nicht verlassen. Sieben Produkte sind deshalb „mangelhaft“ und nur drei insgesamt „gut“. Test 1/2008, pp. 28 - 31 Eine gute Gesichtscreme soll die Haut in erster Linie mit zusätzlicher Feuchtigkeit versorgen, damit sie frisch, glatt und gesund bleibt. Der Trend geht allerdings dahin, diese Cremes mit Lichtschutzfiltern anzureichern, um die Haut vor vorzeitiger Alterung und Fältchenbildung zu schützen. Ein Ansatz, den viele Hautärzte unterstützen. Increasing Skin Protection By A Combination Of A Disaccharide With A Vegetable Origin Fraction; Guglielmini Giancarlo; ifssc Barcelona 2008 Applying on the skin a functional substance containing a relevant amount of polysaccharide, vegetable origin hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids, takes to a better protection and hydration of the skin, H\litlist\studies 12/06 152 because it could permit to restore a normal skin hydration, in particular where a physiological lack of cutaneous factors is present, such as dry, reddened and stressed skin with tendency to aging. The novel compound is so able to recreate its natural state of hydration of the skin, so to be considered an innovative moisturizing and lenitive cosmetic ingredient, particularly suitable for delicate skin and hair. Use of Cutometer to Asses Skin Water Content, Daniela BL Terci, Douglas Terci, Diogo Terci, Adriano Pinheiro, ifscc Barcelona 2008 Assessing the skin water content (skin hydration) is one of the first and most important measurements to test the efficacy of cosmetics on the skin surface. The quantity of literature worldwide dealing with this subject indicates the significance of this measurement. Internal Wool Lipids Rich in Ceramides for Skin Care; Raquel Ramírez, Meritxell Martí, Clara Barba, Sandra Méndez, Jose Luis Parra; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Wool is a natural fibre that is mainly made up of protein. It contains external lipids (lanolin) and a small amount of internal lipids (1.5%). Internal wool lipids (IWL) are rich in cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesteryl sulphate and ceramides, and resemble those from membranes of other keratinic tissues such as human hair or stratum corneum from skin. Intercellular lipids of skin stratum corneum, mainly ceramides, play an important role in the barrier function of the skin by preventing penetration of external agents and controlling the transepidermal water loss to maintain the physiological skin water content. Recent studies have shown that formulations containing lipids that resemble the natural components of the skin, especially ceramide supplementation, can improve disturbed skin conditions. Daily Use of a Skin Moisturizer Increases Tactile Perception Mediated by Aβ Fibres; Aurelie Porcheron, Randa Jdid, Olivier Nageotte, Christiane Guinot, Erwin Tschachler, Frederique Morizot; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 “Je sens donc je suis” (I feel so I am) [1]. The touch is one of the five senses which we perceive through our whole body. Tactile sensations are perceived via the skin by tactile receptors and transmitted via both fast-conducting myelinated Aβ fibres and unmyelinated C fibres to the central nervous system [2]. In vivo, tactile sensations have been essentially investigated using psychophysical methods allowing a qualitative evaluation of touch sensitivity Variability In The Physical Properties Of The Stratum Corneum – Influences Of Chronological Age And Season. Stewart Long1, Marie Godfrey, Amandine Desnos, Daniel Whitby, Steven Barton and Vineeta Agarwal; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 It is well known that the skin exhibits changes with chronological age. Advances in bioengineering have now allowed us to study these changes objectively and precisely [1]. In addition, the introduction of reliable, commercially available skin biophysical measurement devices has led to an increase in studies dedicated to skin ageing, though often with conflicting results [2-9]. Seasonal variation in skin condition has also been studied [9-11]. Together, changes caused by age and season may well have an influence on the effect that a product can exert on the skin, but this is, as yet, unclear. The objective of the current study was to determine the effects of age and season on skin condition and whether these factors also influence product efficacy. Here we report the results from the first summer/winter cycle of an ongoing longitudinal study. Gender Differences In Skin Condition And Response To Product Use; Stewart Long, Marie Godfrey, Judata Wibawa and Steven Barton; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 H\litlist\studies 12/06 153 It is well known that the skin exhibits changes with chronological age and with season. Advances in bioengineering have now allowed us to objectively and precisely study these changes [1]. In addition, the introduction of reliable, commercially available devices has led to an increase in the number of studies assessing skin ageing and condition with season [2-11]. However, the data is often reported on female skin only. Whilst some research has been undertaken to study gender differences in certain skin biophysical properties [12–15], it is often limited to body sites other than the face. Although the market for men’s skincare products is steadily expanding, there appears to be little published literature about differences between male and female facial skin and its response to product use in particular. The objective of the current study was to determine the differences in skin condition of male and female cheek and forehead skin, in terms of skin hydration, surface lipid levels, transepidermal water loss, skin stiffness and elasticity, and the response to product use, in order to better develop skincare formulations for the male skin. Development of Thermotropic Gel Patch Technology improving skin moisture and resilience physiochemically : An innovative skin shielding and drug-delivering challenger; Tae Hwa Jeong1, Kwan Young Jeong1, Sang Keun Han1, Seong Jong Lee1, Seh Hoon Kang1 and Seong Geun Oh; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Sol-Gel transition has been vigorousely investigated in various chemical synthesis to manufacture powders, polymers, and encapsulating materials. Starting from pharmaceutical industries, Sol-Gel transition and its applications have been focused to enhance the time-releasing patterns of drugs such as insulin and to maintain their effective periods much longer than conventional methods. Therefore, many researchers in pharmaceutical fields have paid their attention to develop bio-compatible polymers which show Sol-Gel transitions to be transformed nearby human¡s body temperature, as well as bio-degradable ones. Development of a noble solid lipid emulsion technology using silicone-based waxes and its cosmetic applications improving instant skin resilience and skin protection. Sang Jun Kim1, Tae Hwa Jeong1, Eun Ah Ko1, Seh Hoon Kang1, Kwan Young Jeong1, Sang-Keun Han1, Seong Jong Lee1 and Seong Geun Oh; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Recently, women make more effort for their beauty. Because the entry of women in public affairs have been extended. And their appearances can affect to their social images. Moreover, many of skin problems are caused by the stress of social activities and the environmental problems. Especially, the problems with skin aging are appeared a lot by the increase in UV exposure. In these situations, many cosmetics for anti-aging are gaining popularity. The wax formulations of cosmetic are effective on skin protection and moisturization. In Vivo Assessment Of Ectoin: A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial; Heinrich U, Garbe B, Tronnier H.; Ifscc Barcelona 2008; The objective of this study was to determine the anti-aging properties of Ectoin with special regard to its compatibility and efficacy. For this purpose 104 voluntary female participants were included in a monocentric, randomized, double-blind application test. Moisturizing properties, skin surface structure and skin elasticity were tested, comparing Ectoin (2 %: Treatment B) to a reference emulsion (Treatment A) versus an untreated control. None of all treated participants showed side effects during the study.The gained results of this study display that the natural cell protection concept of Ectoin is transferable to skin care Efficacy evaluation and characterization of chitosan nano emulsions with Spirulina hydro- glycolic extract; del Pozo A1, Solans M1, Fernandez C1, Dolz M2, Corrias F3, Herráez M3; Ifscc Barcelone 2008 H\litlist\studies 12/06 154 Nanoemulsions represent an interesting prospect for use as vehicles in the development of formulations to deliver active ingredients to the human body. Particularly, nanoemulsion formulations have been shown to be superior for transdermal and dermal delivery of hydrophilic and lipophlic compounds, compared to conventional vehicles, such as hydrogels and emulsions. Lecithins (phosphatidylcholines) have been used in several studies as surfactants for topical nanoemulsion vehicles. These surfactants are able to form nanoemulsions without cosurfactants. In this context, less surfactant is associated with lesser irritation Study of the Inter-Relations between Skin Surface Parameters, Hydration, Sebum and pH Marta O. Ferreira, M. Helena Amaral, Paulo C. Costa, M. Fernanda Bahia; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Skin is the body’s largest organ and constitutes a formidable physical barrier that protects us from the environment [1]. Several biophysical techniques are commonly used to study the skin properties and to measure the in vivo skin effects of cosmetics, topical medicaments and chemical irritants [2,3]. The Corneometer® (a capacitance method) measures skin hydration, the Sebumeter® (a photometric method) measures the sebum of the skin and the Skin-pHMeter ® (a potenciometric method) measures the pH of the skin [4]. The Visioscan® VC98 connected to the software SELS (Surface Evaluation of the Living Skin) can measure several skin surface parameters [5]. This apparatus consists of a special b/w video sensor chip with very high resolution, an objective and an UVA-light source. Development of the skin analogue liquid crystal in non-aqueous condition and its cosmetic application to improving atopic dermatitis : An innovative atopy care; Kwan Young Jeong1, Jung Hyun Choi1, Yun Ji Lee1, Tae Hwa Jeong1, and Dong Kyu Lee2; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Atopic dermatitis(AD) has been issued as a serious disease and the prevalence of atopic dermatitis has been rising progressively in developed countries since the 1940's. However, the reason is not enough to explain the increasing prevalence of atopic dermatitis, and some researchers suggest that there must be crucial factors in the expression of the disease like environmentals and allergics.[5] According to recent studies, the damage of skin barrier has beeen reported as one of the main reasons which cause atopic dermatitis. Studies of Ceramide Lotion on M oisture of Skin; Keh-Feng Huang, Edward Tsai, Daniel Chang- Chin Kwan, Yu-Fang Chen, Kuan-Chin Chen, Ming-Fu Wang, Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Stratum corneum intercellular lipids such as ceramides play an important role in the regulation of skin water barrier homeostasis and water-holding capacity. The aim of the pöresent study was to evaluate the potential water retension capacity of an oil-in-water emulsion containing ceramide. Stability and Clinical Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Different Peptides; Glasiela Lemos Anconi, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Wrinkles, as a sign of skin aging, have an important social impact, especially because of longer lifetimes and more frequent social relationships; consequently, they are an important factor influencing our way of communication. Wrinkles represent the more evident outcome of cutaneous ageing. Their onset is linked to a variety of events, resulting from both chrono- and photoageing. Both intrinsic (hormones, racial and genetic factors, oxidative stress, systemic disease) and extrinsic (temperature, air pollution, smoke, alcohol) factors worsen skin condition. However, wrinkles deriving from skin texture, or micro-relief, modification afflict women more than all other wrinkles as signs of ageing in the common mind. H\litlist\studies 12/06 155 Biomimetic Liquid Crystals as Skin Barrier Restructuring Agents; Alain Thibodeau; Ifscc Barcelona 2008; The main roles of the skin are: protection from UV radiation (melanogenesis), immune defense and a barrier function preventing the penetration of foreign particles. Perhaps of greater importance, skin is dynamically involved in the management of internal water levels [1]. As an example of its interconnection with internal organs, it is interestingly to note that the skin is the site for the photoproduction of vitamin D that will be distributed through all the body, and also the site of cutaneous distribution of vitamin E (through sebum secretion) obtained from nutrition. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis A new and sensitive method to assess the NMF content of Stratum Corneum in vivo - Evaluation of a topical moisturizing product; S Sisalli1, N Voisin, F Venturoli, A Adao, S Gardinier, M Isoir, J Jacqueline-Bessière, D Mougin.; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 As far as the existence of the Natural Moisturizing Factor has been known, the need for in vivo and non invasive methods to evaluate the NMF content has been required. The purpose of this paper is to present a new method for the analysis of some NMF compounds sampled by tape stripping. This method allows the simultaneous determination of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylique acid (PCA) and of the 3 main amino acids of the NMF : SERine, GLYcine and ALAnine. It also allows, in the same time, the determination of glycerol (GOL) content, which was recently underlined as an important component in the understanding of cutaneous hydration . Advanced Glycation End Products Crosslinks Breaker: A New Approach for Improvement of Aged Skin; Akihiro Tada, Akiko Kanamaru, Midori Oyobikawa, Tetsuo Maeda, Hiroshi Oshima; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 The reaction between proteins and glucose was first reported by Maillard [1], who observed, while cooking food, glucose and other reducing sugars reacting with protein amino acids to form adducts that after dehydration and rearrangement became stable brown pigments. This reaction between reducing sugar and proteins has been named non-enzymatic glycation. These glycation products undergo further complex reactions to become irreversibly cross-linked, forming a broad range of heterogeneous fluorescent and yellow-brown products called advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Biotechnological Process For The Synthesis Of Omega 9 Compound For Enhancement Of Anti- elastase Activity With Firmness And Restructuring Efficacy; Lucie Couturier, Florent Yvergnaux ; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Inhibition of human neutrophile elastase is an important target due to the enzyme’s involvement in tissue destruction of a number of skin disease states [1]. Elastase itself cleaves collagens, as well as elastin and other proteins with important biological functions. A variety of different types of inhibitors and inhibitor formulations have been devised for treatment of these targets [2,3]. Oleic acid is a highly selective non-toxic inhibitor of elastase. To enhance the vectorization of Omega 9 into the skin, especially in the dermis where elastase acts, Omega 9 type compound has been synthesised through a biotechnological process, miming a structural lipid analogue of the skin. New approach to a non-invasive visualization of whitening effects in UV-induced pigmentation using In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy; GW Nam, EJ Kim, HK Lee, SM AHN, SH Kim, SJ Moon and IS Chang; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Hyperpigmentation on face is a highly anxiety-producing symptom, especially for women from the aspect of beauty. Pigmentation of the skin is related to the amount of melanin that provides protection against UV radiation. In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy is a non-invasive imaging tool allowing visualization of the skin without tissue alteration, by placing a microscopy directly on the living skin. H\litlist\studies 12/06 156 Serine Proteases, Skin Function and Homeostasis; Rainer Voegeli1, Anthony V Rawlings2, Joachim W Fluhr3, Stephan Doppler1, Thomas Schreier; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Several proteases were shown to be present in the epidermis and especially in the stratum corneum (SC). Among these enzymes the serine proteases have a wide spectrum of specificities and functions and play important roles in numerous physiological and pathological processes [1]. In skin they are involved in epidermal proliferation, differentiation, lipid barrier homeostasis and tissue remodeling. Most importantly, kallikreins, together with other enzymes, are involved in the proteolysis of corneodesmosomal proteins, a crucial event prior to desquamation [2]. The alkaline pH-adapted skin barrier is disrupted severely by SLS-induced irritation; Eunjoo Kim, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Human stratum corneum is a multilayer barrier composed of corneocytes and specialized intercellular lipids rendering the skin poorly permeable to water and other polar compounds. The horny layer assists in maintain a constant internal milieu with a pH of 7.4 in viable epidermis that contrasts with the pH of 4-6 found on most parts of human skin[1]. The ‘acid mantle’ of the stratum corneum first described by Schade & Marchionini in 1928[2], was originally thought of as a thin film composed of fatty acids, amino acids, and other organic acids deposited on the skin surface. Bi-Functional Study of Ion Calcium in the Skin Silvia H.Pérez Damonte1, Claudia Liliana Selem, Claudia Groisman; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 The Calcium ion has an important function in the skin. Its gradient plays a role in regulating epidermal growth and differentiation in-vivo. In the intact epidermis, the extra cellular calcium content is low in both, malpighi and spinosum strata, but increases from the inner to the outer layer of the stratum granulosum [1]. Also, the calcium ion participates in the formation of the epidermal desmosomes, fibroblasts and keratinocytes, which provide the integrity and firmness of the skin [2]. All of these factors are important for the correct function of the epidermal barrier. Safety Assessment for Nickel in Cosmetics; Silvia H Pérez Damonte; Ana Maria Martín; Marta Edit Daraio ; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Many environmental chemicals produce contact hypersensitivity or local inflammatory responses in the skin. Nickel released from metal objects is well known as a sensitizing agent in humans. Since the initial damage caused by nickel remains to be the leading cause of skin disorders such as allergic contact dermatitis worldwide, the aim of this study is to investigate if the content of nickel in cosmetics could produce such reactions. Clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing Myrtus communis extract; Patricia M. B. G. Maia Campos; Flavio Bueno de Camargo Junior; Sabrina M. Bertucci; Emeline Esteves de Oliveira; Glasiela Lemos Anconi; Lorena Rigo Gaspa; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 The Research & Development of cosmetic products that are able to act in skin ageing alterations has been a challenge in Cosmetic area. This way, a great number of botanical extracts have been proposed as active ingredients for anti-ageing cosmetic development. Myrtus communis is a plant rich in polysaccharides, essential oils, flavonoids, among other substances. Some studies showed that its different hydroalcoholic extracts have a potent antioxidant activity mainly due to the presence of polyphenols Myrtus communis leaves hydrolyzed extract has been proposed as cosmetic ingredient with anti-ageing properties because it is rich in galacturonic acid, ramnose, galactose, glucose, xylose and fructose . H\litlist\studies 12/06 157 Effect of an acute psychological stress on sebum assessed by SKINSPACE Sorbent Tape method S Sisalli, N Voisin, A Adao, M Lebel, D Mougin. Parfums et Beauté, Sophia Antipolis ; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Responsible for skin shininess and enlarged pores, the excess of sebum could cause inconveniences at all ages of a woman life. Among other biological and environmental factors, the stress is often mentionned as a parameter influencing the sebum hyperproduction. As the data available in litterature are mainly related to young people suffering from acne, the objective of the present study is to evaluate the impact of an acute psychological stress on sebum secretion of 18 female volunteers, with healthy and normal skin, from 18 to 65 years old. Clinical and Instrumental Evaluation of the Facial Photoageing on Indian Women; Catherine Heusèle1, Caroline Derome2, Deepa Kanchankoti3, Rashmikant Mohile3, Armand Bernois1, Sylvianne Schnebert; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Daily exposure to the sun leads to skin photodamage. Clinical signs of photoageing due to biological and structural alteration of the epidermis and dermis will be function of level of UV exposure and individual protection capacities. The influence of ethnic origin on skin structure and function is more and more investigated but few instrumental or clinical studies describe the characteristics of healthy skin and their evolution with age on Indian women living in India [1]. Previous clinical, instrumental or biological studies were carried on Indian subjects living in South Africa or England. Anti-acne activity of Thyme oil and its applications for cosmeceutical acne care: An innovative Anti-acne challenger; Ha Hyun Jo1, Chang Gyu Han1, Kwan Young Jeong1, Jang Su Kim1, Byeong Jun Park1, Ifscc Barcelona 2008 The skin disease which acne occurs in papule, pustule, cystoma and tuber for teenagers and young generation. The origin of acne takes part in various factors. The main factors are 1) increased Sebum 2) cornification of sebaceous glands 3) Propionibacterium 4) inflammation. The Potential Anti-aging Properties of Prunella vulgaris Extract In Vitro and In Vivo; Eun Suk Hong, Gi Woong Ahn, and Byoung Kee Jo, Ifscc Barcelona 2008 The dried Prunella vulgaris (self-heal) is one of the popular traditional herbal medicines in some Asian countries, and has been used extensively for the treatment of robustness, hyperpiesis, uteritis, goiter and so on[1-5]. The aim of this study was to examine various anti-wrinkle activities of Prunella vulgaris extract such as the activation of collagen synthesis, inhibition of collagenase synthesis, inhibition of elastase activity and anti-oxidative activities in vitro. And we were also interested in investigating the effect of this Prunella vulgaris on the skin's surface in a double-blind clinical study. Assessment of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and Comparison Between Equipments; Silva VRL1,2,3, Schulman MA1, Gimenis JM1,2, Baby AR3, Ferelli C1, Taqueda MES3, Velasco MVR3, Kaneko TM3. 1 ISIC Clinical Research Institute, Brazil; 2 University Anhembi Morumbi, Brazil; 3 Department of Pharmacy, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo (FCF-USP), Brazil, Ifscc Barcelona 2008 Moisturizers are used on large body surfaces to maintain the smoothness of the skin. It is well known moisturizers can increase stratum corneum hydration by occlusion of the skin surface or by water- attracting properties. This study presents a discussion of different equipments, Tewameter®, (Courage&Khazaka) and Vapometer® (Delfin) after treatment with different moisture substances to evaluate the transepidermal water loss. Relevance of Lipid Self-Assembly in Nanostructures on the Skin Properties; Lucyanna Barbosa- Barros, Clara Barba, Luisa Coderch, Alfons de la Maza and Olga López. Departament de Tecnologia de Tensioactius, I.I.Q.A.B.-C.S.I.C. Barcelona, Spain, Ifscc Barcelona 2008 H\litlist\studies 12/06 158 Phospholipid systems show high morphological diversity as a function of its structure and composition [1]. This fact plays an important role in the applications of aggregates such as micelles, bicelles and vesicles, which are extendedly used in skin research [2]. Thus, investigations that help clarifying the relation of structural parameters with the effect of the phospholipid aggregates in the skin are needed. Liposomes and micelles have often been used for skin treatment [3-4], although their application is debated due to some aspects. Liposomes seem to be too large to penetrate into the narrow interlamellar spaces of stratum corneum (SC) lipids [5]. Concerning to the micelles, the usual presence of surfactant in their composition supposes a problem due to the well known irritating effect of these solubilising agents on the skin [6]. In this line, the use of bicelles (discoidal micelles constituted by phospholipids) for skin treatment may report advantages comparing to the use of liposomes and micelles: the size of bicelles is small enough for passing through the SC lipid lamellae and their composition consists exclusively of lipids. Evaluation of the Safety and Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Saccharomyces cerevisae Extract and Vitamins; Lorena R. Gaspar, Flavio B. de Camargo Jr, Mirela D. Gianeti, Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos * *Universidade de São Paulo - Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto. Ifscc Barcelona 2008 There are many substances frequently used in anti-aging products due to their moisturizing, photoprotective and skin barrier effects and among them we can point out vitamin A, C and E derivatives. Vitamin A palmitate acts on epithelization and on abnormal keratinization [1]. Vitamin E acetate is a free radical scavenger and can reduce DNA damage and keratinocytes death (sunburn cell formation) [2,3] and also can enhance stratum corneum hydration and reduce skin roughness [4]. Tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP) releases vitamin C in physiological conditions and enhances cellular tolerance against UVB and reactive oxygen species as well as reduces the production of interleukin-1a and prostaglandin E2 [5]. Protective Effects Of Turmerones From Curcuma Longa Against UVB-Induced Oxidative Stress – Upregulation Of Cellular Defence Systems; Michael Wegmann1, Peter Lersch1, Hans Henning Wenk1, Saskia K. Klee1, Ursula Maczkiewitz1 Mike Farwick1. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH. Essen. Germany1. The human epidermis represents the largest interface of the body that is constantly in close contact to the environment. Therefore, it is especially vulnerable to oxidative stress, which in turn leads to oxidation of cellular macromolecules such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. In order to counteract these harmful effects and consequently ensure the redox status of the cell, a plethora of defence mechanisms exists. Fuelled by new research, activities and expression of enzymes of the anti-oxidative defence line is better understood. Two major players during aging and anti-oxidative stress mechanisms are the thiol redox systems driven by gluthathione peroxidase (GPX1) and thioredoxin reductase (TXNRD1) [1]. Both systems require redox equivalent in the form of NADPH to restore their full anti-oxidative potential [2,3]. This in-turn is generated by another enzyme named NAD(P)H dehydrogenase (NQO1) that generates NADPH from oxidized NADP+ by consuming ATP [4]. While the thioredoxin and the glutathione systems neutralize harmful products emerging from the oxidation and peroxidation of bio-macromolecules the defense of reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as hydrogen peroxide which are responsible for most of the oxidative stress on cells exposed for example to UV-irradiation depend on the catalase system. This enzyme eliminates hydrogen peroxide by catalyzing its decomposition to water and oxygene [5]. Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John, Petra A. Schmidt; Verbesserung des Hydrationsniveaus der Haut durch natürlichen Moisturizer; Euro Cosmetics 9-2008, S.16-18 Ein ausreichendes Hydrationsniveau ist unabdingbar für die Funktionalität des Stratum Corneum (SC). Die Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) sind für die Aufrechterhaltung eines entsprechenden Hydrationsniveaus im SC von größter Wichtigkeit. Die Entwicklung von kosmetischen Wirkstoffen, die sowohl für eine ausreichende, als auch lang anhaltende Konzentration von NMF in der Haut sorgen, stellt heute eine große Herausforderung dar. H\litlist\studies 12/06 159 Ein neuentwickelter natürlicher Moisturizer – DayMoist CLR – erhöht aufgrund der enthaltenen hygroskopischen Moleküle, welche den natürlichen Feuchtigkeitsfaktoren der Haut ähneln, die Hydration der Haut; ein Effekt, der sich sowohl durch die Konfokale Raman-Mikrospektroskopie, als auch durch die konventionelle Methodik der Corneometer-Messung bestätigen lässt. Parastoo Davari, MD, Farzam Gorouhi, MD, Sirous Jafarian, MD, Yahaya Dowlati, MD, PhD, and Alireza Firooz, MD; A randomized investigator-blind trial of different passes of microdermabrasion therapy and their effects on skin biophysical characteristics; International Journal of Dermatology 2008, 47, S. 508-513 Microdermabrasion (MDA) was developed in 1980s, and rapidly became a popular modality in superficial skin resurfacing. Its safety, simplicity, no need for anesthesia, prompt recovery and modest equipment costs hold a wide appeal for both physicians and patients. This non-invasive mechanical technique is used in management of fine rhytides, mottled pigmentation, clogged pores, acne, acne scars, and stretch marks. Hagen Tronnier, Mathilde Wiebusch, Ulrike Heinrich; Skin-Physiological Test in Weightlessness in the ISS Space Station; IFSCC Magazine – vol. 11, no 3/2008 A prolonged stay in weightlessness includes several medical alterations of the human body and also results in impairment of the skin. The stratum corneum, epidermal barrier as welle as other skin compartments are affected in terms of their susceptibility to dryness, desquamation and pruritus. This can lead, for example, to wound healing disorders. Skin physiological tests were performed on the skin of an astronaut during and after the the ASTROLAB-Mission within the Skin Care program initiated by the ESA. Judith A Tunggal 1, 6 , Iris Helfrich 1, 6 , Annika Schmitz 1 , Heinz Schwarz 2 , Dorothee Günzel 3 , Michael Fromm 3 , Rolf Kemler 4 , Thomas Krieg 1, 5 and Carien M Niessen 1 ; E-cadherin is essential for in vivo epidermal barrier function by regulating tight junctions; The EMBO Journal - Vol. 24, No. 6/2005, S. 1146-1156 Cadherin adhesion molecules are key determinants of morphogenesis and tissue architecture. Nevertheless, the molecular mechanisms responsible for the morphogenetic contributions of cadherins remain poorly understood in vivo. Besides supporting cell–cell adhesion, cadherins can affect a wide range of cellular functions that include activation of cell signalling pathways, regulation of the cytoskeleton and control of cell polarity. To determine the role of E-cadherin in stratified epithelium of the epidermis, we have conditionally inactivated its gene in mice. Here we show that loss of E- cadherin in the epidermis in vivo results in perinatal death of mice due to the inability to retain a functional epidermal water barrier. Pascale Quatresooz, Jean-Francois Hermanns,Trinh Hermanns-LE, Gérald E. Pierard, Jean-Luc Nizet ; Laddering melanotic pattern of Langer's lines in skin of colour; European journal of dermatology 2008-Aug; vol 18 (issue 5) Mechanobiological stimulation of the skin influences the melanocyte activity. The clinical impact on melanocytes can be perceived by dermoscopy. Our aim was to assess the orientation of Langer's lines using the combination of ultrasound shear wave propagation and dermoscopy in 70 adults of darker skin complexion. On the back, 44/70 patients showed a honeycomb melanotic pattern without any main orientation. By contrast, a streaky parallel pattern of melanotic lines oriented in the direction of Langer's lines was found in 26/70 patients. Indeed, the maximum speed of ultrasound propagation was found parallel to the main orientation of the laddering melanotic pattern. The parallel melanotic pattern probably reflects the main orientation of the epidermal rete ridges aligned in the direction of Langer's lines. This aspect could be ascribed to the deepening of these structures and/or to mechanobiology H\litlist\studies 12/06 160 affecting melanocytes. The aspect is reminiscent of that previously described in striae distensae and atrophic scars. H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich; Change in Skin Physiological Parameters in Space - Report on and Results of the First Study on Man; Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2008;21: S.283-292 Astronauts often show skin reactions in space. Systematic tests, e.g. with noninvasive skin physiological test methods, have not yet been done. In an interdisciplinary cooperation, a test series with skin physiological measurements was carried out before, during and after a long-term mission in the International Space Station. The hydration of the stratum corneum (Corneometer), transepidermal water loss (Tewameter), and the surface structure of the skin (SkinVisiometer) were measured. In order to record cutaneous states, the suction elasticity was measured (Cutometer), and an ultrasound measurement with 20 MHz (DermaScan) was also made. In addition, one measuring field of the two inner forearms was treated with a skin care emulsion. There were indications of a delayed epidermal proliferation of the cells, which would correspond to the clinical symptoms. Hydration and TEWL values are improved by respective skin care. On the cutaneous level, the elasticity measurements and the ultrasound picture showed results which correspond to a significant loss of elasticity of the skin. Further examinations are necessary to validate these preliminary results. Elisabetta Esposito, Markus Drechsler, Roberta Bozzini, Leda Montesi, Rita Cortesi; Topical formulations for skin hydration; Household and Personal Care Today n 2/2008, S.6-10 The design and comparison of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration are here reported. Different Nanoparticulate systems, namely cubosomes, nanovesicles, solid lipid nanoparticles and liposomes, have been produced and characterized by morphology and size distribution. Hydration power has been studied using a corneometer, measuring the skin electrical capacitance before and after the application of viscosized nanoparticulate systems. It has been demonstrated that nanovesicle gel displayed a pronounced hydration power with respect to the others nanostructured formulations, its hydration effecton skin was 3.5 fold higher after 5min from the application and 1.5 fold higher after 2 hours. Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John; Elevating stratum corneum’s level of hydration with a natural moisturizer; Household and Personal Care Today n3/2008, S.10-12; The presence of sufficient amounts of water is crucial for normal functioning of the Stratum Corneum (SC). The Natural Moisturizing Factors play an enormously important role in maintaining a sufficient level of hydration in the SC. Keeping a sufficient concentration of NMF by applying cosmetic formulation onto the skin poses the cosmetic chemist to a great challenge. A new natural moisturizer containing molecules resembling the NMF wich are naturally present in human skin (BVHC Complex) has shown to be able to elevate the concentration of the NMF after 24 hours of application significantly with Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy, which showed interesting correlation with the results obtained with corneometry. M. Paye, S. Mac-Mary, A. Elkhyat, C. Tarrit, P. Mermet, P.H. Humbert; Use of the Reviscometer for measuring cosmetics-induced skin surface effects; Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 343-349 The Reviscometer RVM 600 that measures resonance running time (RRT) has been shown to be inversely related to the skin stiffness. However, very few publications describe the use of this instrument for testing the effect of cosmetic products. Slight xerotic skin condition was induced by usind an alkaline soap for 1 week. Skin has then been rehydrated with a lotion or further dehydrated and dried with sodium lauryl sulfate. H\litlist\studies 12/06 161 Martha Tilaar, Wong Lip Wih, Anna S. Ranti, S.M. Wasitaatmadja; Punica granatum properties examined; Personal Care, September 2008, pp. 27 – 29; Natural cosmetic ingredients have shown tremendous growth in recent years, and studies have been conducted on botanical extracts for cosmetic use. Several aspects should be considered when utilising botanical materials in cosmetics – such as the quality of the plant materials, processes, biological activity and safety. Looked for in a study was a natural ingredient potentially having multifunctional properties for cosmetic use. Used were Punica granatum L. fruit obtained from a community plantation on a Javanese island. A taxonomical study was conducted by literature. Jürgen Lademann, Joachim Fluhr; This Issue at a Glance: Skin Reactions of Astronauts in Space and Microstructures of Topically Applied Formulations; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 2008; 21:245; The analysis and characterization of the properties of human skin under natural conditions and under topical treatment on Earth is a topic of comprehensive investigation. In the present issue, it is demonstrated that there is also a skin physiology outside the Earth in the universe. Tronnier et al. Investigated the changes in skin physiological parameters in space. Astronauts often show skin reactions. In an interdisciplinary cooperation, a test series with skin physiological measurements was carried out before, during and after a long-term mission at the International Space station. David Boudier, Catherine Lenaers, Claire Sabbadini, Delphine Creel, Brigitte Closs-Silab; Development of “certified” organic actives; Personal Care, September 2008; pp. 35-37 Nowadays, consumers are more conscious than ever before of what they put on their skin. They demant authenticity from natural/organic brands, scrutinising product labels and favouring products that meet certification standards. For over 20 years, independent company Silab has introduced natural active ingredients to the cosmetic industry. In order to meet market expectations and by applying its expertise in the “natural” area, Silab now has launched three “certified” organic active ingredients covering the main aspects of anti-ageing products: an immediate tensor, a hydrating ingredient and an anti-wrinkle active ingredient. T. André, M. De Wan, P. Lefèvre, J.-L. Thonnard ; Moisture Evaluator: a direct measure of fingertip skin hydration during object manipulation; Skin Research and Technology 2008; 14, S.385-389 The mechanical properties of the fingertip skin are very important when studying dexterous manipulation. These properties are strongly influenced by the level of skin hydration. Currently, there is no device capable of measuring skin moisture during object manipulation. Methods: Skin moisture levels during object manipulation were measured using the Moisture Evaluator, a probe consisting of gold-covered electrodes connected to a resistor-capacitor circuit. In vivo calibration was performed by comparison with measurements obtained using a Corneometer ® at two normal force levels (0.2 and 2  N). Results: Measurements from the Moisture Evaluator were well correlated with those from the Corneometer ® . Conclusion: A new device for evaluating skin moisture at the fingertip has been designed and validated. Kristien De Paepe 1 , Evelien De Rop 1 , Evi Houben 1 , Ralf Adam 2 and Vera Rogiers 1 H\litlist\studies 12/06 162 1 Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Brussels, Belgium and 2 Procter & Gamble, Schwalbach am Taunus, Germany Effects of lotioned disposable handkerchiefs on skin barrier recovery after tape stripping; Skin Research and Technology 2008 ; 14, S.440-447 Background/purpose: In the present work, it was studied whether repeated use of lotioned disposable handkerchiefs on tape-stripped forearm skin was able to improve skin barrier recovery. Methods: Skin assessments included scoring of visual erythema and dryness/scaliness; and measuring of skin redness (Chromameter ® CR300), skin hydration (Corneometer ® CM825), and transepidermal water loss (Tewameter ® TM300). Four different lotioned paper handkerchiefs – randomly assigned to one of two subject groups (n=20) – were tested vs. the non-lotioned control handkerchief. The results were also compared with those obtained using a topically applied oil-in-water barrier cream (Dermalex ® ). Results: The three-day lasting protocol revealed that handkerchief wiping itself delayed skin recovery, but a significantly better performance was seen for the lotioned handkerchiefs containing fatty alcohols and mineral oils. This shows that the use of lotioned tissues helps to prevent skin damage inevitably caused by the wiping process. Conclusion: The controlled pre-damaged forearm method with tape stripping appears to be a suitable model to study the effects of repetitive wiping on irritated skin with disposable handkerchiefs of different quality. More specifically, the model seems applicable to mimic the nasolabial skin damage observed during a common cold associated with frequent use of disposable handkerchiefs. Frank Gafner, Kuno Schweikert, Giogio Dell’Acqua; Oat-Based Complex Stimulates Skin Barrier Protein Synthesis and Reduces Skin Aging; IFSCC Magazine – vol. 11, no3/2008 Epidermal differentiation is crucial to guarantee a physiological confication process. The cornified envelope is the final skin barrier which protects against external aggressions such as UV light and reduces water loss. Skin aging is associated with decreased functionality of this barrier and reduced epidermal differentiation. We present a new bioactive complex for the stimulation of protein synthesis associated with cornified envelope and markers of epidermal differentiation. Composed of a hydrolysed oat protein extract and particularly rich in glutamine and glutamic acid combined with ATP and niacinamide, 1% of this complex increases significantly the synthesis of proteins such as filagrin, late envelope protein and small proline-rich proteins, all markers of epidermal differentiation, in a reconstituted human skin model as measured by DNA array chip analysis, reverse transcription- polymerase chain reaction and immunohistochemistry. Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John – CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH, Germany; Elevating NMF concentration with a natural moisturiser; Personal Care, Sep. 2008, S.81-83 For any living organism, presence of water at the sites where it is essential for normal functioning is crucial for survival. The outer layer of the skin provides a typical example of the human body preserving water at an essential site (in close proximity to a dry environment). It is therefore understandable that control of the presence of water is one of the fundamental properties of the skin. Water in the stratum corneum as related to dry skin: The topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC) consists of cornified cells (corneocytes) embedded in a complex and lamellarly well- organised mixture of non-polar lipids. Water in the SC is present in the corneocytes and very minimally in the intercellular regions. Hagen Tronnier, Mathilde Wiebusch, Ulrike Heinrich; First Skin-Physiological Tests in Weightlessness in the ISS Space Station; IFSCC Magazin – vol. 11, no 3/2008 A prolonged stay in weightlessness induces several medical alterations of the human body and also results in impairment of the skin. The stratum corneum, epidermal barrier as well as other skin H\litlist\studies 12/06 163 compartments are affected in terms of their susceptibility to dryness, desquamation and pruritus. This can lead, for example, to wound healing disorders. Skin physiological tests were performed on the skin of an astronaut during the ASTROLAB-Mission within the Skin Care program initiated by the ESA. The skin was analysed before, partly during and after the mission. In addition, the tests were repeated after one year. Dr. Karl-Heinz Schrader; Cremes auf dem Prüfstand, Beauty Forum 09/2008, S. 100-102 Ob Anti-Aging oder UV-Schutz: Kosmetische Mittel sollten „gut“ verträglich sein und eine Wikung haben. Beides sollte am Bestimmungsort der Kosmetika – auf Haut, Haaren etc. – auch nachweisbar sein. In modernen Speziallabors wird daher geprüft, was Cremes und Co tatsächlich leisten. Die fertigen Produkte werden In-vivo-Tests unterzogen, also am lebendigen Organismus auf ihre Wirksamkeit geprüft. Generell unterscheidet man dabei subjektive und objektive Prüfungen. Wird beispielsweise die Wirkung einer Anti-Aging-Creme untersucht, dienen subjektive Anwendungstests dazu, die sensorische Beurteilung und die Hautverträglichkeit zu prüfen. Mit objektiven Messungen werden dagegen z.B. die Wasserretention und das Hautoberflächenprofil bestimmt, der Sonnenschutzfaktor geprüft und das antioxidative Potenzial des Produkts ermittelt. BASF Beauty Care Solutions; Lys’lastine, the face designer; Cosmetics & Toiletries 9/2008, vol.123, no 9; Major discoveries about elastin. Elastin naturally brings to mind the skin’s youthful appearance and level of elasticity, both of which are symbolic values that make this molecule a choice ingredient in anti-age strategies. Nevertheless, the real scientific aspects of elastin are surprisingly not very well known including information about its structure, its function, and aging process. Dermatronnier: H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich; Project Skin Care of the European Long- Term Mission (ASTROLAB) on the ISS; Poster ISS (Posterpreis) Introduction: Impairments due to circulatory and vestibular disturbances of the equilibrium are the prevalent medical side effects astronauts suffer from. These are followed by the dermatological problems. In order to examine these skin problems and find ways to prevent them, skin-physiological measurements as a project „Skin Care“ were carried out within the framework of the European long- term mission (ASTROLAB) 2005 – 2007. David Boudier, Catherine Lenaers, Claire Sabbadini, Delphine Creel, Brigitte Closs – Silab, France; Development of ‘certified’ organic actives; Personal Care 9/2005; S.35-38; Nowadays, consumers are more conscious than ever before of what they put on their skin. They demand authenticity from natural/organic brands, scrutinising product labels and favouring products that meet certification standards.1 For over 20 years, independent company Silab has introduced natural active ingredients to the cosmetics industry. In order to meet market expectations and by applying its expertise in the “natural” area, Silab now has launched three “certified” organic active ingredients covering the main aspects of anti-ageing products: an immediate tensor, a hydrating ingredient and an anti-wrinkle active ingredient. del Pozo A 1 , Solans M 1 , Fernandez C 1 , Dolz M 2 , Corrias F 3 , Herráez M 3 , Diez-Sales O.; Efficacy evaluation and characterization of chitosan nanoemulsions with Spirulina hydro-glycolic extract; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 (Poster) Nanoemulsions represent an interesting prospect for use as vehicles in the development of formulations to deliver active ingredients to the human body. Particularly, nanoemulsion formulations have been shown to be superior for transdermal and dermal delivery of hydrophilic and lipophlic H\litlist\studies 12/06 164 compounds, compared to conventional vehicles, such as hydrogels and emulsions [1]. Lecithins (phosphatidylcholines) have been used in several studies as surfactants for topical nanoemulsion vehicles. These surfactants are able to form nanoemulsions without co-surfactants. T. Andre, M. De Wan, P. Lefèvre, J.-L. Thonnard; Moisture Evaluator: a direct measure of fingertip skin hydration during object; Skin Research & Technology 2008; 14: S. 385-389 Background/purpose: The mechanical properties of the fingertip skin are very important when studying dexterous manipulation. These properties are strongly influenced by the level of skin hydration. Currently, there is no device capable of measuring skin moisture during object manipulation. Methods: Skin moisture levels during object manipulation were measured using the Moisture Evaluator, a probe consisting of gold-covered electrodes connected to a resistor-capacitor circuit. In vivo calibration was performed by comparison with measurements obtained using a Corneometer ® at two normal force levels (0.2 and 2  N). Results: Measurements from the Moisture Evaluator were well correlated with those from the Corneometer ® . Conclusion: A new device for evaluating skin moisture at the fingertip has been designed and validated. De Paepe, Kristien; De Rop, Evelien; Houben, Evi; Adam, Ralf; Rogiers, Vera ; Effects of lotioned disposable handkerchiefs on skin barrier recovery after tape stripping; Skin Research & Technology 2008; 14 : S. 440-447 Background/purpose: In the present work, it was studied whether repeated use of lotioned disposable handkerchiefs on tape-stripped forearm skin was able to improve skin barrier recovery. Methods: Skin assessments included scoring of visual erythema and dryness/scaliness; and measuring of skin redness (Chromameter ® CR300), skin hydration (Corneometer ® CM825), and transepidermal water loss (Tewameter ® TM300). Four different lotioned paper handkerchiefs - randomly assigned to one of two subject groups (n=20) - were tested vs. the non-lotioned control handkerchief. The results were also compared with those obtained using a topically applied oil-in- water barrier cream (Dermalex ® ). Results: The three-day lasting protocol revealed that handkerchief wiping itself delayed skin recovery, but a significantly better performance was seen for the lotioned handkerchiefs containing fatty alcohols and mineral oils. This shows that the use of lotioned tissues helps to prevent skin damage inevitably caused by the wiping process. Conclusion: The controlled pre-damaged forearm method with tape stripping appears to be a suitable model to study the effects of repetitive wiping on irritated skin with disposable handkerchiefs of different quality. More specifically, the model seems applicable to mimic the nasolabial skin damage observed during a common cold associated with frequent use of disposable handkerchiefs. John Staton – Dermatest, Australia; Tools for anti-ageing claim support; Personal Care, Nov. 2008; S.19-22 Anti-ageing covers a substantially broad area of claims associated with both the prevention and the treatment of chronological and environmental effects on the condition of human skin. A large number of instrumentally based clinical methods are available for the substantiation of claims related to anti- ageing. This article describes the most common of these and considers only those which are essentially non-invasive. P.-Y. Morvan, R. Vallée – Codif International, France; New focus on natural moisturisation; Personal Care, Nov. 2008; S.29-32; The fundamental role of urea in maintaining the skin’s moisturisation is well known. Concentrated in the stratum corneum, where it represents 7% of the natural moisturising factor (or NMF), it is naturally present in normal skin, but its concentration falls rapidly by 50% in dry skin and 85% in skin suffering from dermatosis. This drop in urea content is irremediably accompanied by a depletion of NMF and therefore loss of moisturisation. The skin becomes wrinkled and loses its suppleness and radiance. H\litlist\studies 12/06 165 Wong Lip Wih, Anna S. Ranti, Suryaningsih, Maily, Indonesian plants yield useful agents; Personal Care, Nov. 2008; S.25-27; The demand for naturally-derived active ingredients for cosmetics continues to increase. Our objective was to look for moisturising and antioxidative agents from Indonesian botanical resources which contain flavonoid and polyphenol. The article describes natural ingredients extracted with ethanol from Indonesian plants namly Orthosiphon aristatus (Blume) miq = OE (patent pending) and Phyllantus niuri L = PE (patent pending). The study was carried out using DPPH scavenging activity for antioxidant agent in vitro; and Corneometer and Tewameter for moisturising effect. G. Campos, J. Coll, L. Campderros, M. Recasnes, D. Panyella, J. Ginestar; FP0394 COMPARISON OF THE ANTI-AGING EFFICACY OF A CREAM VERSUS A CREAM PLUS SERUM TREATMENT; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Objectives: The purpose of this study is to compare, using bioengineering methods, the efficacy of applying an anti-aging cream alone or in combination with an antiaging serum. The anti-aging products included in this study contain a peptide similar to procollagen fragment, hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycans complex and polysaccharides with urea. T. Reuther, S. Schröder, M. Kersche; FP0363 ANALYSIS OF SITE-DEPENDENT DIFFERENCES OF TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS, SKIN CAPACITANCE AND SKIN SURFACE-PH USING BOTH T-TEST AND CORRELATION ANALYSIS; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance (SC) and skin surface-pH (pH) are today standard parameters for assessing skin barrier function. While there are many studies analysing the relationship between absolute values from different sites using t-test investigations providing information from the analysis of such data using correlation analysis are very rare. Therefore the aim of the present study was to analyze TEWL, SC and pH of the forearm (FA) and the forehead (FH) using and comparing t-test and correlation analysis. Z. D. Draelos, E. Baltas; FP1448: SKIN BARRIER AND DESQUAMATION IN PATIENTS WITH MILD PLAQUE PSORIASIS IS IMPROVED WITH THE USE OF A GENTLE MOISTURIZING CREAM; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Psoriasis is a disorder characterized by faster than normal skin growth and replacement. The result of this rapid skin growth and replacement is a build-up of red, thickened areas with a scaly appearance. The most commonly affected areas are the scalp, elbows, knees and back. These plaques are often dry and non-pliable areas on the skin that can be a source of pain and/or discomfort to affected individuals. Moisturization of these areas may provide some relief by increasing hydration. S. Louth; FP0079 PHYSIOGEL INTENSIVE - A NEW, EFFECTIVE MOISTURISING AGENT; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Studies showing an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a decrease in water-binding properties in atopic dry skin suggest that the skin barrier function is compromised in patients with atopic dermatitis. These studies also suggest that the judicious use of effective moisturisers can improve the epidermal barrier function. Objectives: As part of an assessment program for a new and innovative moisturiser (Physiogel Intensive), the efficacy of Physiogel Intensive as a skin barrier and moisturizer was evaluated. H\litlist\studies 12/06 166 S. Davoudi, B. Sadr, A. Firooz, S. Keshavarz, M. Naghizadeh; FP0444 COMPARATIVE STUDY OF SKIN SEBUM AND ELASTICITY LEVEL IN PATIENTS WITH SULFUR MUSTARD- INDUCED DERMATITIS AND HEALTHY CONTROLS; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 Background: Sulfur mustard –a chemical agent- has numerous proven acute and chronic effects on skin. Xerosis which might be due to damage of hydrolipidic barrier of skin is the most common complaint of veterans. Objective: This study was designed to evaluate skin sebum and elasticity in veterans with a history of sulfur mustard contact. Firooz, S. Davoudi, B. Sadr, S. Keshavarz, M. Naghizadeh; FP0446 COMPARATIVE STUDY OF SKIN HYDRATION AND TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS IN PATIENTS WITH SULFUR MUSTARD-INDUCED DERMATITIS AND NORMAL CONTROLS; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Skin lesions are among the most common chronic side effects of sulfur mustard intoxication. Objectives: We conducted this comparative study to evaluate skin hydration and trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) in patients with sulfur mustard-induced dermatitis. B. Sadr, S. Davoudi, A. Firooz, S. Keshavarz, M. Shohrati, M. Naghizadeh; FP0466 COMPARISON OF ERYTHEMA AND MELANIN LEVEL IN SULFUR MUSTARD INDUCED CHRONIC SKIN LESION WITH NORMAL SKIN; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Sulfur mustard gas is a chemical agent that has been used in many wars, especially in Iran-Iraq war. This chemical agent affects many organs including lungs, eyes and skin and causes numerous acute and chronic lesions including erythema and hyperpigmentation, respectively. Objective: This study was conducted to evaluate erythema and melanin in subjects with a history of exposure to sulfur mustard. M. Chang, J. Han, C. Lee, S. Kim; FP0395 THE SURFACE PROFILES OF LIP CORNEOCYTES ARE DIFFERENT FROM FACE AND ARM SKIN; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; A novel approach about the surface characteristics of corneocytes has been studied by atomic force microscope(AFM) nowadays. The physical properties of lip skin is very particular compared to normal skin, face and arm. But there are little studies about the lip skin. In this study, we have studied the characteristics of surface profiles of lip skin, and we have compared lip to face and arm skin. J. Vokurkova, H. Buckova, P. Sin; FP1585 TREATMENT OF GIANT CONGENITAL MELANOCYTIC NEVI AND CUTOMETRIC MEASUREMENT OF THE SKIN VISCOELASTICITY AFTER REPEATED EXPANSIONS AND SURGERY; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 Introduction: All types of surgical procedures _ neonatal dermabrasion, parcial excisions, expansion and reexpansion of skin flaps etc. are used in children with diagnosis a Giant Congenital Melanocytic Nevi. Scar maturation after a surgery and especially after a transfer of expanded flap has its biological rules. However, it differs in individual patients in as much as one year. For objective examination of scar maturity and evaluation of its elasticity, it is possible to apply measurement with the Cutometer device. According to the measurement results, an algorithm may be evaluated for individual surgical procedures and especially for the best timing of re-expansion or if to continue in dermabrasion method. H\litlist\studies 12/06 167 J. An, K. Kim, H. Eun; FP0710 THE EFFICACY OF LIPOSOME ENCAPSULATED 0.5% 5- ALA FOR THE TREATMENT OF ACNE IN ASIAN SKIN; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background and objectives Photodynamic therapy using topical 5 aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) has been proposed as a treatment option in acne vulgaris, but at least 48-hour sun avoidance after treatment was strongly recommended due to the risk of post-treatment photosensitivity. Recently, lower concentration form of 5-ALA was introduced to minimize the risk. The aim of this study was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of liposome encapsulated 0.5% of 5-ALA (PhotoSpray®,DDD, Denmark) in photodynamic therapy of inflammatory acne and its effects on sebum secretion in Asian skin J. Nasarre, G. De la Cruz, M. León, M. Espadas, C. Trullás; FP0030 EFFECTIVENESS OF A CLEANSING GEL AND A CREAM GEL CONTAINING ZINCAMIDA® AS ADJUVANT TREATMENT AND AS SINGLE TREATMENT FOR INFLAMMATORY ACNE; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 BACKGROUND. The appearance of bacterial resistance to antibiotic treatment for acne presents a serious problem. Using combined therapies, or alternating treatment with other anti-bacterial and anti- inflammatory products that do not induce bacteria resistance, such as zincamida® may offer a solution. OBJECTIVES. To assess the effectiveness of a cleansing gel and a gel cream containing zincamida® as adjuvant treatment and as an alternative treatment to antibiotics in the resolution of inflammatory acne. C. Huh, M. Choi, S. Lee, S. Kim, Y. Park, B. Kim, H. Park, S. Choi, S. Youn,K. Park; FP0723 Low dose 1064nm Q-switched Nd:YAG laser for the treatment of melasma; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background : Melasma is a common acquired pigmentary disorder that is known for its recalcitrance to the conventional treatment. Although Q-switched Nd:YAG laser(QSNYL) is widely used for the treatmemt of melasma, little has been published regarding its effect. Objectives: In this study, we would like to know the effect of low dose 1064nm QSNYL(MedLite C6, HOYA Conbio, CA) on the treatment of melasma objectively. H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich; FP0374 SKIN PHYSIOLOGICAL PARAMETERS IN SPACE - RESULTS OF THE EUROPEAN LONG-TERM MISSION IN THE ISS (ASTROLAB); Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Since in weightlessness many astronauts report skin problems like dryness, itching, tendency to get injured, impaired wound healing etc., a “Skin Care” program was initiated for the ASTROLAB Mission of ESA (European Space Agency). It was carried out by a consortium with different tasks. Methods: In a non-invasive skin-physiological test program, the following measurements were recorded: 1. The effect of a skin care treatment and 2. Further effects of weightlessness on the skin. A.Fourtanier, B. Ladan, C. Camus, N. Dami, V. Delvigne, R. Bazin, M. Hughes, A. Green; COMPARISON OF FACIAL SKIN PARAMETERS IN CAUCASIAN AUSTRALIAN AND EUROPEAN WOMEN; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 H\litlist\studies 12/06 168 The aim of this study was to compare two Caucasian female populations aged 40 to 69 years with very different lifestyles and cosmetic habits: one (n= 67) living in a temperate climate in Europe (Paris 55° N); the other (n= 80), living in subtropical Australia (Nambour, 26° S). Using a patented proprietary skin evaluation tool (Diagnôs Expert® ) in each location, we compared the skin properties of women classified into three age groups : 40 to 49, 50 to 59, 60 to 69. This tool combines several techniques including a capacitance method (Corneometer®) for hydration and a suction method (Cutometer®)for assessment of mechanical properties. The greatest wrinkle-depth , the intensity of the darkest pigmented spot (selected clinically) and sebaceous activity were measured on images acquired by camera with an adapted magnification (x10 and x60) and analyzed by a specific software. V. Delvigne, C. Camus, M. Isono, G. Yang, M. Daveno, D. Amar2, B. Lavaud, C. Hoang Van Chu, V. Delvigne, R. Bazin; FP0207 COMPARISON OF SKIN PROPERTIES IN VARIOUS POPULATIONS USING A NEW MULTI -CRITERIA MEASURING DEVICE; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Purpose of the study: To assess a new testing battery device for evaluating skin condition in relation to age and skin ethnicity and skin type. Methods: Facial skin data have been recorded in female volunteers by the same operator in 5 different countries from December 2003 to April 2004. Study volunteers included various ethnic skin types i.e. caucasian (Paris, France), hispanic (Mexico city, Mexico), asian (Tokyo, Japan and Hong- Kong, China) and African American (Chicago, USA). At least one hundred women per city were involved and split into 4 natures of skin (normal, dry , oily and combined) and 5 age groups (20- 29 years, 30 - 39 years, 40 -49 years, 50 -59 years and over 60 years). U. Heinrich, B. Garbe, H. Tronnier, W. Stahl, C. Moore, M. J. Arnaud; FP0324 SUPPLEMENTATION WITH GREEN TEA EXTRACT IMPROVES SKIN PHYSIOLOGICAL PARAMETERS; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: The objective of the study was to determine changes in skin parameters during the intake of a beverage rich in green tea extract. The detection of hydration properties, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), changes of skin surface (SELS), skin elasticity, skin thickness and density as well as serum analyses were determined during the study. Methods: Hydration measurements were carried out with the Corneometer CM 825 prior to and during the study. Transepidermal water loss (barrier function of the skin) was measured with the Tewameter, skin surface (SELS) with the Visioscan and skin elasticity with the Cutometer (Courage & Khazaka Electronics, Cologne, Germany). R. M. Debowska, A. Dzwigalowska, M. Szubert, K. Rogiewicz, I. Eris, B. Pander; FP0313 EFFICACY EVALUATION OF RE-MODELLING FACE CARE PRODUCT; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 Background: Skin ageing is an important and interesting topic of study. It results from the combination of intrinsic ageing and photoageing, which is due to the environmental influence. The cosmetic industry creates and develops for the ageing population constantly improving products. Objectives: The aim of this study was to evaluate the in vivo efficacy and beneficial effects of application of the re-modelling face cream containing an anti-wrinkle peptide, vitamin E, proteins from sweet almonds and peach oil. B. Renault, C. Tricaud, D. Moyal, L. Q. Nguyen, B. Boussouira, M. D. Pham, A. Potter, C. Baltenneck, A. Minondo; FP0362 EFFECTS OF DAILY UVR ON STRATUM CORNEUM: BIOPHYSICAL PROPERTIES, MORPHOLOGICAL AND BIOCHEMICAL MARKERS; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 H\litlist\studies 12/06 169 Background: Exposure to UV light induces damages in the skin and accounts for most of ageassociated changes in appearance. Most of the studies involve the UV SSR (Solar Simulated Radiation) corresponding to short term Zenithal exposure conditions. But most of the time, the skin is exposed to UV corresponding to non zenithal conditions. Objective: To evaluate the damage to the living epidermal layers induced, in a rather short term, by an exposure regimen mimicking non zenithal daily exposure, by measuring the changes in biophysical properties, morphological and biochemical markers of the stratum corneum. A. Reich, J. Kopyra, K. Korfanty, E. Pióro, K. Postrzech; FP0302 INFLUENCE OF SOAPS ON EPIDERMIS BARRIER; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008 Background: Washing the body is the human's basic need. However, soaps, one of the most often used washing products, can damage epidermic barrier and disturb the protective function of the skin. Objective: The purpose of this study was to compare the influence of three different soaps on epidermis moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). L. E. Colón, L. A. Johnson, T. J. Stephens, R. L. Rizer, E. Baltas; FP0379 HYDRATION AND IRRITATION POTENTIAL OF A NEW MOISTURIZER FOR USE IN PATIENTS WITH VERY DRY SKIN; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Many dermatologists maintain that good skin care is an important part of any treatment regimen and also important in maintaining good dermatological health. The gentleness of a family of products (Galderma Laboratories, L.P., Fort Worth, TX) has been a hallmark over several decades and is the primary reason why many physicians trust these products for their patients with compromised skin. R. M. Debowska, B. Tyszczuk, J. Zielinska, K. Rogiewicz, I. Eris, B. Pander; FP0312 THE EFFECTS OF AN ANTI-AGEING BODY CARE PRODUCT, CONTAINING ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDE, REPAIRING ENZYMES AND PLANT WAXES; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Aging is an inevitable process which concerns every organ of our body, including the skin. Every day our skin is exposed to external factors. They influence the skin’s condition and its appearance. Many women concern themselves mainly with the skin on the face and neck. However, they forget about the rest of their body skin, which undergoes aging as well and thus also needs suitable care. Objectives: The aim of this study was to evaluate the in vivo efficacy and beneficial effects of application of the body cream containing an anti-wrinkle peptide, repair enzymes, and olive, bee, cocoa and mango wax. F. Rippke, A. Filbry, S. Hiddemann, U. Koop, S. Jaspers, A. Knot2, C., Mummert, U. Scherdin, M. Moers-Carpi, A. Buerger; FP0316 A MULTI-PRONGED TOPICAL ANTI-AGEING APPROACH USING PLANT-DERIVED ARCTIIN AND OLIGOPEPTIDES IMPROVES SIGNS OF ADVANCED SKIN AGEING; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Ageing of the skin gives rise to a number of characteristic modifications of its structures and functions. Namely after menopause, atrophic alterations are accelerating due to marked hormonal changes, resulting in skin conditions affected by wrinkles, impaired skin regeneration, and loss of elasticity and density. Only recently, specific extracts from burdock seeds and anise fruits have been identified as potent active ingredients for topical anti-ageing preparations. In our studies we set out to investigate the effects of two emulsions containing these actives on parameters of skin aging employing biophysical in vivo and ex vivo techniques. H\litlist\studies 12/06 170 T. Chen, T. J. Stephens, J. H. Herndon, F. Forster, Y. Appa; FP0005 SKIN CLEARING BENEFITS OF A CLAY-BASED CLEANSER MASK CONTAINING SALICYLIC ACID AND A NOVEL MICROGEL COMPLEX; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; The ease and simplicity of being able to use an acne cleanser on a daily basis to treat and control acne is highly desirable for many acne sufferers. A daily acne cleanser with salicylic acid that can also be used as a mask further provides the additional benefits of softness, freshness and deep pore cleanliness that are much sought by people with acne prone skin. This dual purpose cleanser mask is now upgraded with a novel microgel complex that contains an antimicrobial, sebum dissolvers and skin conditioning agents. S. Gardinier, J. Latreille, C. Guinot, E. Tschachler; FP0318 THE SKIN HYDRATION STATE AS DETERMINED BY A SCORE BASED ON BIOPHYSICAL PARAMETERS AND RAMAN SPECTROSCOPY DATA; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; The skin hydration state can be assessed by various instrumental methods, including conventional measurements, e.g. capacitance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and more sophisticated methods like Raman spectroscopy. These techniques are considered complementary, as they investigate different aspects of skin hydration. The objective of this study was to summarize and quantify in a synthetic way the skin hydration state by a score based on biophysical parameters, as well as the content of some skin components assessed by confocal Raman spectroscopy. G. Lembo, S. Lembo, S. La Bella, V. Lo Conte, D. Martellotta, F. Ayala; FP0881 IN VIVO EVALUATION METHOD OF BARRIER CREAMS’ PROTECTIVE EFFECT; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Theoretically, skin barrier creams reduce or even prevent the penetration into the skin by building up a physical barrier, like a thin film, between the skin and the toxic substance. Practically, controversial experiences concerning the effectiveness of barrier creams exist. For this, we propose an in vivo method to evaluate the efficacy of barrier creams trough clinical and instrumental analysis. A. M. Matta, L. Lefeuvre, A. Gougerot; FP0344 CLINICAL BENEFIT OF AN ALGAE POLYURONIDES RICH EMULSION IN THE MANAGEMENT OF DRY TO VERY DRY SENSITIVE SKIN; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Background: Patients with sensitive skin experience a disturbance of the protective skin barrier function and develop exaggerated reactions than normal skin. The use of specific skincare products designed to restore skin barrier and to prevent neurogenic inflammation are useful to manage skin over-reactivity. Objectives: The aim of this study was to assess the efficacy, tolerance and acceptability of a O/W rich emulsion containing algae polyuronides associated with Uriage thermal water in comparison with a reference skincare product (O/W rich emulsion with low mineral water content) in subjects with sensitive skin. A. Porcheron, R. Jdid, O. Nageotte, C. Guinot, E. Tschachler, F. Morizot; FP0359 DAILY USE OF A SKIN MOISTURIZER IMPROVES TACTILE SENSATIONS MEDIATED BY ABETA FIBRES; Abstract; EADV Paris 09/2008; Introduction: The diminution of skin perception and skin innervation with age has been largely described. All kind of qualities are concerned: thermal sensations as well as tactile sensations. A diminution of sensory innervation also occurs with age. Our objective was to investigate whether a daily topical application of a moisturizer could modulate Abeta,, Adelta and C fibers involved in skin H\litlist\studies 12/06 171 sensations. For the present study, we investigated the current perception thresholds (CPT) of the three types of cutaneous nerve fibers with a method commonly used in the detection of early steps of neuropathic disorders. Diana Khazaka; Useful and practical advice for measuring TEWL and skin moisture with Cornemeter and Tewameter; Vortrag, PPP; CHI 2008, Bitec Bangkok; The presentation gives an overview about the measurement of the barrier function and hydration of the skin with worldwide standard devices. The history of those techniques as well as the benefits and pitfalls are described. Multi centric studies which have been performed in this field to show accuracy of the instruments and between different instruments and new approaches, as the recent use of this technology in space or measurements of hydration in different depth of the skin and field devices for consumer tests for laboratories are presented. New methods to look at porphyrines on the skin surface, to measure skin color and skin gloss and methods to access the deep lines (e.g. “crow’s feet”) with a camera and oblique light are explained in the session. Di Qu, Ph. D., Chris J. Masotti, and G. Paul Seehra, Ph. D.; Novel Cutometer Analysis for Evaluation of Skin Viscoelastic Properties/ Nouveaux Paramètres pour l’Evaluation des Propriétés Viscoélastiques de la Peau ; SFIC 2008 (Kongress in Monaco) (Poster, engl. + franz.); Quantitative evaluation of biomechanical properties of human skin in vivo is the subject of continuous investigation [1,2]. The Cutometer (Courage & Khazaka) has been frequently used to measure the mechanical properties of skin Conventionally with this instrument, skin viscoelastic properties are defined by many linear parameters (Uf, Ue, Uv, Ur, and Ua) from a typical mode 1 measurement of the Cutometer. The ratios of those U values, particularly Ue/Uf (overall elasticity), Ur/Uf (pure elasticity), and Ur/Ue (elastic-viscous ratio), are frequently reported [3,4,5]. In our extensive studies using the Cutometer we have noticed significant variability of those U parameters leading to inconsistent results. Dorothee Bürkle; Die Haut der Astronauten- Erstes kommerzielles ISS-Experiment aus NRW; http://www.wdr.de/themen/wissen/astronomie/blick_ins_all/raumfahrt/060701.jhtml Auf der Raumstation ISS, zu der Thomas Reiter am 1. Juli startet, wird er viele Experimente durchführen. Mit seiner eigenen Haut wird er für den ersten Versuch herhalten, den Unternehmen aus NRW in Auftrag gegeben haben. Wie viele Falten während seines sechs Monate langen Aufenthalts auf der Internationalen Raumstation ISS dazugekommen sind, wird Thomas Reiter am Ende ganz genau wissen. Alle zwei Wochen holt der deutsche Astronaut einige Messgeräte aus den Regalen der Raumstation, testet damit den Wasserverlust seiner Haut und kontrolliert, ob neue Fältchen dazugekommen sind. Firooz A., Gorouhi F., Davari P., Hekmat S., Atarod M., Rashighi Firoozabadi M., Solhpour A.; Comparison of hydration, sebum and pH values in clinically normal skin of patients with atopic dermatitis and healthy controls; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2007; 32, S.321-322; The water content of the stratum corneum and skin surface lipids forms a balance that is important for the appearance and function of the skin. An impaired balance may lead to the clinical manifestations known as “dry skin”, which is particularly seen in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD). Davari, Parastoo; Gorouhi, Farzam; Jafarian, Sirous; Dowlati, Yahya; Firooz, Alireza; H\litlist\studies 12/06 172 A randomized investigator-blind trial of different passes of microdermabrasion therapy and their effects on skin biophysical characteristics; International Journal of Dermatology,Volume 47, Number 5, May 2008 , pp. 508-513(6) Background: Microdermabrasion (MDA) is a safe, simple, and beneficial technique for superficial skin resurfacing. Despite its popular usage, few studies have assessed the efficacy of different MDA protocols applied at the present time. Objectives: To assess the effects of MDA generally, as well as to compare the effects of two vs. three passes of MDA in each session for a total number of six therapeutic sessions on skin biophysical characteristics. Farsinejad K, Firooz A, Davoudi S, Robati R, Hoseini M, Ehsani A, Sadr B.; Biophysical characteristics of skin in diabetes: a controlled study; Department of Dermatology, Razi Hospital, University of Tehran/Medical Sciences, Tehran, Iran. Background: Cutaneous complications are common in diabetes. Previous assays suggest that hyperglycemia and decreased insulin signal are involved in the impairment of skin function. The aim of this study was to evaluate the biophysical characteristics of skin in patients with diabetes mellitus and compares them with healthy non-diabetic controls. Objective: To measure biophysical characteristic of skin including transepidermal water loss (TEWL), water content, sebum and skin elasticity in patients with diabetes mellitus and compare them with healthy non-diabetic controls. Permamed, Prof. Dr. med. P. Humbert, Besancon 2008; Klinische Anti-Aging-Studie; In einer monozentrischen klinischen Studie wurde die Anti-Aging-Wirkung von Lubex anti-age über drei Monate bei Frauen im Alter zwischen 45 und 60 Jahren mit mittelstark lichtgealterter Haut im Gesicht und Décolleté geprüft und belegt. Als Grundlage wurden hautphysiologische Messungen durchgeführt, das Hautbild wurde fotografisch dokumentiert und durch Dermatologen im Doppelblindverfahren bewertet. J. Dissemond; pH-Wert und chronische Wunden; derm (14) 2008, S. 486-490 Der pH-Wert beschreibt logarithmisch die reziproke Konzentration von freien Wasserstoffionen und ist somit ein Maß für die Stärke der sauren bez. basischen Wirkung einer wässrigen Lösung. Der Begriff pH-Wert leitet sich von den lateinischen Wörtern potentia (Kraft) und hydrogenium (Wasserstoff) ab. Die Skala der pH-Werte reicht von 0 bis 14, wobei der Mittelwert von 7 als neutral bezeichnet wird. Johann W. Wiechers, PhD; Formulating at pH 4-5: How Lower pH Benefits the Skin and Formulations; Cosmetics and Toiletries magazine; Vol. 123, No. 12/December 2008; Most skin products are formulated around pH 6 but the latest research in skin biology suggests the skin is significantly more acidic – around 4,7. Here, the author shows how formulating for this natural pH can enhance the skin penetration of actives, reduce the amount of preservatives required, and increase chemical stability. Luigi Rigano, Mauro Pleardo, Elena Pini et al; Novel Retinol-like Actives from Parrot Feathers; IFSCC magazine – vol. 11, no 4 / 2008 Several classes of pigments are responsible for coloration in birds. Melanin pigments most commonly appear in bird feathers and bare parts. They impart black, brown and chestnut hues. Carotenoids are a second group of coloring biochemicals in birds. These two types of pigment-based coloration are found in nearly every order of extant birds. In contrast, parrots harbor bright-colored pigments in their feathers, which have different structures. H\litlist\studies 12/06 173 Hristo Dobrev Clinical and instrumental study of the efficacy of a new sebum control cream; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 6; 113-118; Some botanical compounds are considered useful to reduce sebum production. To evaluate the efficacy of a sebum control cream containing polyphenol-rich extract from saw palmetto, sesame seeds, and argan oil in subjects with oily facial skin. The study was carried out during the winter months (January and February). Hristo Dobrev Treatment of acne with a new topical product. A clinical and instrumental study. www.teknoscienze.com; submitted to the Journal Household and Personal Care Today; We studied the efficacy of a new topical product containing a combination of lipoaminoacid capryloyl glycine, sarcosinde, and Cinnamon zeylanicum bark extract in 19 subjects with mild to moderate acne after twice daily application for a 7-week treatment period. Determination of efficacy included clinical assessment using acne lesion counting and desease severity scoring, bioengineering measurements of sebum on the facial skin using a photometric device and sebum collector foils. Catarina Rosado, Pedro Pinto, Luis Monteiro Rodrigues; Assessment of moisturizers and barrier function restoration using dynamic methods, Skin Research and Technology 2009; 15: pp. 77-83; Dynamic methods, such as the mathematical modelling of the transepidermal water loss curves that result from a a plastic occlusion stress test (POST), enable the complete characterization of the dynamic water balance established between the deep and the superficial skin structures. G. Boyer, L. Laquièze, A. Le Bot, S. Laquièze, H. Zahouani ; Dynamic indentation on human skin in vivo : ageing effects; Skin Research and Technology 2009; 15, pp. 55-67 Knowledge of the mechanical properties of the human skin is very important for cosmetic and clinical research. Objective and quantitative measurements are essential to compare studies performed by different experimenters in different centres. The aim of this paper is to present a method to measure the viscoelastic properties of human skin in vivo dynamic indentation. A complete device to assess the stiffness and damping of skin has been developed. Gianetti, A.; The european aesthetic guide, Autumn 2008, S. 43-50 As in previous years, the congress will be accompanied by a highly impressive industrial exhibition featuring app. 300companies and a large poster display. Global laser and light technology manufacturers, as well as companies from diagnostic, dermal filler, implant, pharmaceutical and neutraceutical industries will use this opportunity to display product innovations and introduce new clinical results. H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich; Project Skin Care of the European Long-Term Mission (Astrolab) on the ISS; DermaTronnier, Research Impairments due to circulatory and vestibular disturbances of the equilibrium are the prevalent medical side effects astronauts suffer from. These are followed by the dermatological problems. In order to examine these skin problems and find ways to prevent them, skin-physiological measurements as a project “Skin Care” were carried out within the framework of the European long-term mission (ASTROLAB) 2005-2007. H\litlist\studies 12/06 174 C. Oresajo, M. Yatskayer, R. Rizer, S. Raab, Z. Draelos; A multicenter, controlled clinical study to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of an antioxidant composition containing vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin on photodamaged skin; JAAD, March 2009, San Francisco The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of an antioxidant composition containing vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin in improving the visible signs of photodamaged skin. A 24- week, multicenter, clinical study of 55 females 35 to 65 years of age with self-perceived sensitive skin, mild to moderate periocular fine and coarse wrinkles, and mild to moderate hyperpigmentation on the face and back of the hands were enrolled. M. Lanctin, C. Bertin, F. Le Goff, P. Emilie, R. Roure ; A double-blind, placebo-controlled study to assess the efficacy of a body cream containing a combination of tetrahydroxypropyl ehtylenediamine, caffeine, carnitine and retinal; JAAD, March 2009, San Francisco With aging, several changes occur in the skin. Skin firmness, hydration and uniformity are some of the parameters that are modified. Moreover, cellulite is a common condition of womens’s skin. Therefore, it is useful to design a formulation which can moisturize the skin and increase its firmness while reducing the brown spots and cellulite aspect. J. Theunis, A.M. Schmitt, C. Beylot, M. Baspeyras, W. Zacaria; Comparative evaluation of the efficacy of two treatment schedules of glycolic acid peels in facial photoaging; JAAD, March 2009, San Francisco Alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acids (AHAs) are widely used in cosmetics industry. At high concentrations, they reduce intercorneocyte cohesion, exfoliate the superficial layers of epidermis, and are though to exert indirect action on dermis.They are proposed for the treatment of skin aging. The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of two schedules of glycolic acid peels on photoaging. M. Ionescu, A. Gougerot, A.M. Matta, L. Lefeuvre, M. Bohbot; Melanocytes’ dendricity down- regulated by the association niacinamide-ascorbic acid; JAAD, March 2009, San Francisco To assess the effects of the association niacinamide-ascorbic acid on melanogenesis process in human skin explants exposed to solar simulated radiation (SSR). Normal human skin explants were treated (untreated control) by an O/W emulsion based on the assiciation niacinamide-ascorbic acis (2mg/explant, 1 time per day from baseline to day 9, 30 min before SSR irradiation). R. Wanitphakdeedecha, S. Eimpunth, W. Manuskiatti; The effects of tetrahydrocurcumin in curmin cream on the hydration, elasticity, and color of human skin; JAAD, March 2009, San Francisco An antioxidant used in cosmetic applications should have the capability to efficiently quench free radicals on the surfact of the skin. Tetrahydrocurcumin (THC) plays an important role in the antioxidant mechanism resulting in the significant neutralization of free radicals in a dose-dependent manner. Recent studies revealed the superior free radical scavenging ability of THC. N. Trookman, E. ho, R. Ford, V. Gotz; Clinical efficacy and tolerance of a novel treatment serum for photodamaged facial skin; JAAD, March 2009, San Francisco Oxidative damage induced by environmental factors, such as chronic ultraviolet exposure, cotributes to the process of photoaging and results in the formation of biochemical events which leads to increased collagen degradation and the suppression of collagen synthesis. Clinical manifestations of photodamage include a loss of skin elasticity and firmness, fine lines and wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. H\litlist\studies 12/06 175 M. Suero, D. Miller, M. Azriel, W. Wallo; Evaluating the effects of a body moisturizer with glycolic acid on epidermal proliferation via flourescence excitation spectroscopy; JAAD, March 2009 In a clinical setting, patients with dry skin often present with flakiness as a result of a disrupted desquamation process. The application of an exfoliating agent such as alfa-hydroxy acid (AHA) helps promote desquamation by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells, thereby facilitating the removal of flakes and allowing newer cells to emerge. Flourescence excitation spectroscopy allows for a noninvasive means of determining the increase in the rate of cellular turnover via monitoring the excitation band assigned to tryptophan, an established marker of epidermal proliferation. G. Boyer, L. Laquièze, A. Le Bot, S. Laquièze, H. Zahouani ; Dynamic indentation on human skin in vivo : ageing effects ; Skin Research and Technology 2009, 15; pp. 55-67 Knowledge of the mechanical properties of the human skin is very important for cosmetic and clinical research. Objective and quantitative measurements are essential to compare studies performed by different experimenters in different centres. The aim of this paper is to present a method to measure the visco-elastic properties of human skin in vivo using dynamic indentation. A complete device to assess the stiffness and damping of skin has been developed. Catarina Rosado, Pedro Pinto, Luis Monteiro Rodrigues; Assessment of moisturizers and barrier function restoration using dynamic methods; Skin Research and Technology 2009; 15; 77-83 Dynamic methods, such as the mathematical modelling of the transepidermal water loss curves that result from a plastic occlusion stress test (POST), enable the complete characterization of the dynamic water balance established between the deep and the superficial skin structures. Previous studies have indicated that this methodology was able to detect impaired barrier function and differentiate normal and dry skin. The objective of the present study is to apply the discriminative capacity of the model to the efficacy testing of moisturizing products. Motoko Murakami, Osamu Tanno, Hiroyuki Kurokawa; Evaluation of skin mechanical properties by determining of resonant frequency and loss resistance with tactile sensor; Skin Research and Technology No 1, Feb. 2009, pp. 125+126 To clarify the characteristics of resonance frequency change and loss resistance by determining the mechanical properties of skin with a tactile sensor (Venustron Axiom Incl, Japan), which is a device used to elucidate the mechanical characteristics of skin based on implementation of a resonance circuit and piezoelectric oscillator. Thwo different experiments were performed with 30 healthy Japanese males as subjects. H. Maibach, Hongbo Zhai; Tape Stripping Method in Humans: Comparison of Evaporimetric Methods; Cosmetics & Toiletries magaine, Vol. 124, No. 2, February 2009, pp. 26-30 The stratum corneum (SC) has been well recognized as a principal water barrier of the skin. It is a cellular tissue, a fabric of cornified cells creating a tough, flexible, coherent membrane, acting as a two-way barrier, minimizing water loss, electrolytes and other body constituents, and decreasing the entry of noxious substances from the external environment. Maintenance of the SC structural integrity is critical to barrier function. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) documents the integrity of SC water barrier function, and is a sensitive indicator of skin water barrier alternation. H\litlist\studies 12/06 176 Giancarlo Guglielmini; Disaccharide plus vegetable origin fraction boosts skin; Personal Care, March 2009, pp. 79-80 Applying on the skin a functional substance containing a relevant amount of polysaccharide, vegetable origin hydrolysed proteins and amino acids, creates better protection and hydration of the skin. This is because it can allow the restoration of normal skin hydration, particularly where a physiological lack of cutaneous factors is present – in, for example, dry reddened and stressed skin with a tendency to ageing. The novel compound’s capability to recreate a natural state of hydration of the skin means it can be considered as an innovative moisturising and lenitive cosmetic ingredient, particularly suitable for delicate skin and hair. Michèle Wilker; Natural active ingredients from GfN & Selco; Euro Cosmetics 11/12-2008, pp. 23- 28 Today active ingredients for cosmetic formulations have very specific properties. At the same time we recogniz a strongly increasing demand for natural ingredients in cosmetics which is prevailing during the last years. You may find millions of active ingredients in nature. Time is over, when hydro propylene glycolic extracts have been very commonly used in cosmetic formulations, being more a marketing claim then a real efficacy. J. Ivosevic-Zaper; KiOsmetine-CG 125 – natürliche Biopolymere zur Pflege der anspruchsvollen Haut; Euro Cosmetics 11/12-2008 Die belgische Firma Kitozyme, ein Spin-off der Universität Liège, stellt nach 8-jähriger Entwicklungszeit ein Biopolymer mit außergewöhnlichen kosmetischen Eigenschaften der Kosmetikindustrie zur Verfügung. Das Verfahren zur Produktion dieses Polymers nicht tierischen Ursprungs wurde mit dem wallonischen Innovationspreis ausgezeichnet. Der Wirkstof KiOsmetine- CG 125 ist ein natürliches Biopolymer, zusammengesetzt aus zwei kovalent gebundenen Polysaccharidketten, dem Chitin und dem Beta-Glucan. Shunpeng Song, Peter M. elias, Qinian Hou, Chengzhi Lv, Yuejun Shi, Kenneth R. Feingol, Mao- Qiang Man, Decreased Cutaneous Resonance running time in Cured Leprosy Subjects; Dalian Skin Disease hospital, Liaoning, China Leprosy involves both the skin and peripheral neural tissue. In addition to neuropathy, cutaneous abnormalities, such as decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration, elevated skin surface pH, hyperpigmentation and ulcerations, remain significant problems in “cured” leprosy. Moreover, alternations in dermis have been reported in leprosy. Cutaneous Resonance running time (CRRT) is a non-invasive apporoach to measure CRRT property, which is mainly influenced by collagen fibers in dermis. Stephen Bielfeldt, Volker Schoder, Ulrike Ely, André van der Pol, Johanna de Sterk, Klaus-Peter Wilhelm; Assessment of Human Stratum Corneum Thickness and ist Barrier Properties by In – Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy; IFSCC Magazine – vol. 12, no 1 / 2009-05-15 Measurement of water concentration profiles across living human skin by confocal Raman spectroscopy has developed into a powerful tool for a better understanding of distribution and function of water in the epidermis. From the water profile across the epidermins the border between stratum corneum and stratum granulosum can be estimated. This is due to the steep drop in water concentration from the inner to the outer side of the stratum corneum. S. Gong, C. Lv.. KR Feingold, X. Zhang, S. Xin, C. Tu, L. Dui, PM Elias, M. Man; Variation of skin surface pH, sebum content and stratum corneum hydration with age and gender in Chinese population; Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2009), Volume 129 Evidence suggests the importance of skin biophysical properties in predicting diseases and in developing appropriate skin care. The results to date of studies on skin surface pH, stratum corneum (SC) hydration, and sebum content in various gender and ages have been inconclusive in part due to H\litlist\studies 12/06 177 small sample size. Additionally, little is known about skin physical properties of Asian, especially Chinese, subjects. K. Miyamoto, O. Kuwanzuru, N.Yoshikawa; Sudden skin appearance change in skin aging, skin elasticity tipping model as a key indicator of the skin aging progression; Journal of investigative Dermatology (2009), Volume 129 Understanding bio-elasticity of human tissues is important to maintain human health and wellness including skin substrates against aging. It has been considered signs of skin aging are appeared gradually, while we discovered sudden skin condition change occurred in the aging process. A new skin elastic model was proposed as a new skin aging progression, by characterizing multilayered skin physical properties. S. Song, PM Elias, Q Hou, C Lv, Y Shi, KR Feingolg, M. Man; Decreased cutaneous resonance running time in cured leprosy subjects; Journal of investigative Dermatology (2009), Volume 129 Leprosy involves both the skin and peripheral neural tissue. In addition to neuropathy, cutaneous abnormalities, such as decreased stratum corneum (SC) Hydration, elevated skin surface pH, hyperpigmentation, and ulcerations, remain significant problems in “cured” leprosy. Moreover, alternations in dermis have been reported in leprosy. Hristo Dobrev; Clinical and instrumental study of the efficacy of a new multi-action topical product in acneic skin; Household and Personal Care TODAY, n1/2009 Many people suffer from oily, acne prone skin. This type of skin is characterized by increased oily sevretion, greasy looking rough skin surface with dilated pores, comedones and tendency to inflammation manifested by erythema, papules and pustules. It can be observed in both men and women and often is a serious cosmetic problem. Oily skin and acne formation are related to the overproduction of sebum and abnormal keratinisation of the sebaceous follicle epithelium stimulated by male sex hormones (androgens) Diana Khazaka, Christiane Uhl; More than 2 decades of bioengineering for efficacy testing and product recommendation; Household and Personal Care TODAY, n1/2009, Due to high competition in the cosmetic and growing customer expectations, in the past two decades there has been a continuousdevelopment of new cosmetic products with more efficient ingredients covering new effects on the skin. Simultaneously to this, there was an increasing demand for new measuring techniques to substantiate the new product claims. The field of skin bioengineering has consequently been immensely enriched in the last years by inventing new physical and optical measurement methods for all kind of skin parameters. Paul-Gunther Sator, JolantaB. Schmidt, Herbert Hönigsmann; Comparison of epidermal hydration and skin surface lipids in healthy individuals and in patients with atopic dermatitis; J Am Acad Dermatol, March 2003 The water content of the stratum corneum and the skin surface lipids form a balance that is important for the appearance and function of the skin. Nevertheless, the water content of the stratum corneum and the skin lipids, the water-binding substances from the hydro-lipid film of the skin, act together as a barrier to the environment. P.-G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, M.O. Sator, J.C. Huber, H. Hönigsmann; The influence of hormone replacement therapy on skin ageing. A pilot study; Maturitas 39 (2001) 43-55; We studied the effect of hormonal treatment on skin ageing in menopausal women. Twenty-four patients without hormone treatment for at least 6 months were included. Patients were assigned to H\litlist\studies 12/06 178 three therapy groups: 1, oestrogen only 2. transdermal oestrogen and progesterone.One group without therapy was included as a control group. Treatment was continued for 6 months. Three patients, one from group 2 and two from group 3, discontinued therapy before the study endpoint. The following skin parameters were measured at monthly intervals during treatment. P.-G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, H. Hönigsmann; Clinical Evidence of the Endocrinological Influence of a Triphasic Oral Contraceptive Containing norgestimate and Ethinyl Estradiol in Treating Women with Acne vulgaris; Dermatology 2003;206: 241-248 Acne vulgaris is a multifactorial inflammatory follicular skin disorder occuring in pilosebaceus units, espacially on the face and the trunk. The major etiological factors are increased sebum production, hypercornification of the pilosebaaceous duct, abnormal microbial flora and inflammation. There are many different faces of acne. Acne and acneiform eruptions affect persons of all ages, beginning with neonatal acne and progressing to include rosacea in older persons. Acne vulgaris is the most common skin disorder, affecting close to 80% of people at least once between 11 and 30 years of age. Bernadette nedelee, Jose A. Correa, Grazyna Rachelska, Alecis Armour, Leo LaSalle; Quantitative Measurement of Hypertrophic Scar: Intrarater Reliability, Sensitivity, and Specificity; Journal of Burn Care & Research May/June 2008 The comparison of scar evaluation over time requires measurement tools with acceptable intrarater reliability and the ability to discriminate skin characteristics of interest. The objective of this study was to evaluate the intrarater reliability and sensitivity and specificity of the Cutometer, the Mexameter and the DermaScan C relative to the modified Vancouver Scar Scale (mVSS) in patient-matched normal skin, normal scar (donor sites), and hypertrophic scar. Bernadette nedelee, Jose A. Correa, Grazyna Rachelska, Alecis Armour, Leo LaSalle; Quantitative Measurement of Hypertrophic Scar: Intrarater Reliability and Concurrent Validity; Journal of Burn Care & Research May/June 2008 Research into the pathophysiology and treatment of hypertrophic scar (HSc) remains limited by the heterogeneity of scar and the imprecision with which its severity is measured. The objective of this study was to test the interrater reliability and concurrent validity of the Cutometer measurement of elasticity, the Mexameter measurement of erythema and pigmentation, and total thickness measure of the DermaScan C relative to the modified Vancouver Scar Scale (mVSS) in patient-matched normal skin, normal scar, and HSc. Masaki Yamaguchi, Yusuke Tahare, Teruhiko Makino, Tadamichi Shimizu, Akira Date; Comparison of Cathepsin L activity in cheek and forearm stratum corneum in young female adults; Skin Research and Technology 2009K; 15; 370-375 Noninvasive determination of skin surface proteolytic anctivity may be useful for the diagnosis of human disease and the potential of skin. The cathepsin family is one of the metabolizing enzymes of the skin cell and it includes aspartic protease cathepsin D and cysteine proteases cathepsin B, H, and L. Cathepsin L is a lysosomal cysteine protease with a major role in intercellular protein catabolism. Erhardt Proksch; Despanthenol-haltige Externa zur Pflege trockener Haut bei Diabetikern; Kosmetische Medizin 6/2008 Die meisten Diabetiker leiden unter einer trockenen Haut und haben daher ein erhötes Risiko für Hautinfektionen. Über Rhagaden und andere Miktrotraumen können besonders an den Füssen Bakterien in die Haut eindringen und zu einer tiefen Pyodermie und Ulzerationen führen. Eine konsequente Hautpflege hat nicht nur pflegenden Wert, sondern beugt auch ernst zu nehmenden Hautschädigungen vor. H\litlist\studies 12/06 179 Yuan-Hong Li, Yan Wu, Hua-chen Wie, Yuan-Yuan Xu, Li-Li Jia, Jing Chen, Xue-Song Yang, Guang- Hui Dong, Xing-Hua Gao, Hong-Duo Chen; Protective effects of green tea extracts on photoaging and photommunosuppression; Skin Research and Technology 2009; 15; 338-345 Itg is well known that solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes many detrimental events, e.g. sunburn, immunosuppression, skin carcinogenesis as well as photoaging. Acute UVR results in epidermal thickening and expression of proliferation and differentiation markers, such as Ki-67 and cytokeratins (CK)-1, 6 (3, 4). Martin Johannes Koehler, Anja Preller, Nadja Kindler, Peter Elsner, Karsten König, Rainer Bückle, Martin Kaatz; Intrinsic, solar and sunbed-induced skin aging measured in vivo by multiphoton laser tomography and biophysical methods; Skin Research and Technology 2009; 15; 357-363; In aging skin, the decreasing dermal collagen content due to diminished collagen synthesis is responsible for some of the clinically most evident signs of intrinsic aging skin such as thinning, loss of elasticity and fine wrinkling. Extrinsic skin aging is mainly a consequence of cumulative ultraviolet (UV) exposure of the skin, but can be accelerated my nicotine abuse and environmental hazardous compounds. D. De Paepe, E. Houben, R. Adam, J.-P. Hachem, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers ; Seasonal Effects on the Nasolabial Skin Condition ; Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2009; 22: 8-14 In the present work, nasolabial skin condition and the influence of seasonal changes during autumn and winter were studied in 16 healthy female volunteers. Apart from visual scoring of erythema and skin scaliness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, apparent skin pH, skin colour and skin desquamation were biophysically measured. The study results showed that nasolabial TEWL was significantly higher during wintertime than in autumn. Daniel Schmid, Esther Belser, Fred Zülli; An Herbal Blend for Antiaging Effects: TCM in Personal Care; Cosmetics and Toiletries; Vol. 124, No. 1/January 2009; Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) is a holistic approach to healing that developed in China about 3,000 years ago and that typically includes therapies such as acupuncture, qigong exercises and herbal medicine. It is highly respected as a means to treat skin disorders and is especially well –perceived by European and Eastern cultures. Believing in the efficacy of TCM, the authors collaborated with expert Severin Bühlmann, PhD, to incorporate this approach into an herbal blend to treat dry, sensitive skin that is prone to psoriasis. David Boudier, Nathalie Guichard, Josselin Breugnot, Maud Le Guillou, Brigitte Closs; In vivo Quantification of Corneocyte Lipids by Image Analysis; Cosmetics & Toiletries; Vol. 124, No. 5/May 2009, pp. 84-92 The lipids of the stratum corneum (SC) are composed mainly of cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides that are derived from the secretion of lamellar body (LB) contents at the stratum granulosum/SC interface. This secretion process occurs immediately prior to loricrin cross-linking into the cornified envelope (CE). One of the most important events in the homeostasis of the epidermis is the acquisition of hydrophobicity by covalent attachment of these lipids ot the extracellular surface of CE components. David Boudier, Catherine Lenaers, Claire Sabbadini, Delphine Creel, Brigitte Closs; Certified Organic Actives For Cosmetic Formulations; HAPPI, May 2009, pp. 70-77; With more consumers interested in following a healthy and eco-conscous lifestyle, demand for natural and organic beauty care products has grown tremendously in the past couple of years. Indeed, it is more than a trend, consumers today expect their cosmetics to be natural. Silab has more than 20 years of experience in the field of natural active ingredients. Most recently, we have developed a range of H\litlist\studies 12/06 180 certified organic active ingredients that respond to the main cosmetic claims: anti-aging, anti-free radicals, moisturizing and soothing. Mike Farwick, Ursula Maczkiewitz, Peter Lersch, Tim Falla, Susanne Grether-Beck, Jean Krutmann; An ECM-derived Tetrapeptide to Counterbalance ECM Degeneration; Cosmetics & Toiletries; Vol. 124, No. 6/June 2009 The extracellular matrix (ECM) is the structural backbone of many tissues, especially the skin, and represents a main target for cosmetic applications. ECM proteins are believed to play a pivotal role in cellular migration, proliferation and gene regulation during wound healing. Fragments from ECM constituents have been found capable of stimulating ECM biosynthesis to compensate for tissue destruction. Their mechanisms have been implicated in wound healing, skin aging and skin’s response to UV irradiation. Johann W. Wiechers; Orthorhombic Phase Stabilization for Internal Occlusion: a New Mechanism for Skin Moisturization; Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 124, No. 6/June 2009, pp. 45 – 50; In 1997, Wiechers introduced the concept of relative performance measurement to compare the moisturization of several neat emollients. The capacitance of skin treated with test products was measured by a corneometer and compared with glycerine-treated skin (defined as 100%) and untreated skin (defined as 0%) at given intervals, normally 6 hr after application. As one might expect, this test showed that all emollients were not the same in their capacity to moisturize skin. Kristien De Paepe, Evelien De Rop, Evi Houben, Ralf Adam, Vera Rogiers; Effects of lotioned disposable handkerchiefs on skin barrier recovery after tape stripping ; Skin Research and Technology 2008; 14; 440-447 During an acute viral cold the skin of the nostrils and nasolabial area often becomes red and irritated. Owing to a runny nose and frequent use of disposable handkerchiefs, the nasolabial skin area may become quite painful. In order to find out whether the use of lotioned handkerchiefs could bring some relive and might increase the personal comfort of the cold patient, a controlled forearm skin model was designed to mimic the in use situation during a common cold. Evi Houben, Ralf Adam, Jean-Pierre Hachem, Diane Roseeuw, Vera Rogiers, Kristien De Paepe; Clinical scoring and biophysical evaluation of nasolabial skin barrier damage caused by rhinorrhea; Contact Dermatitis 2008, 59; 296-300 Suffering from an acute viral cold – caused by rhinoviruses or coronaviruses – probably is the most common illness known. A common cold usually is mild and self-limiting. Apart from an overall discomfort, cold symptoms are sneezing, serous nasal secretion, and obstruction of nasal breathing caused by the swelling and inflammation of the sinus membranes. These symptoms occur 2-3 days after the infection and usually last for 7-10 days. In acute viral rhinitis, only the symptoms can be treated and common over-the-counter medication for a cold may already be effective. Ralf Adam, Baerbel Schnetz, Petra Mathey, Marc Pericoi, Y. de Prost; Clinical Demonstration of Skin Mildness and Suitability for Sensitive Infant Skin of a New Baby Wipe; Pediatric Dermatology 1-8; 2009; Over the past decade, baby wipes have become established as leading cleansing devices for the diaper area. Despite this fact, few publications have reported clinical data on the dermatologic effects of baby wipes. Although basic performance requirements of a moist tissue, such as cleaning and removal of fecal matter from the skin, are largely met by current products, modern baby wipes can address further aspects of skin care in the diaper area via usage of effective cosmetic product application. H\litlist\studies 12/06 181 D. Schmid, F. Suter, F. Zülli; Soothing Factor from Opuntia Cactus for Sensitive Skin; SÖFW- Journal 131/11-2005, pp. 2-5; Sensitive skin tends to be more susceptible to some environmental factors. People with sensitive skin report exaggerated reactions such as redness, itching or rashes when their skin is in contact with certain cosmetics, plants or fabrics, hot or cold, or insect bites. Normally, people with sensitive skin show quicker an erythemal reaction against ultraviolet irradiation. Skin that is sensitive to sun, typically shows allergic reactions, induced by ultraviolet radiation alone or in combination with chemical ingredients in skin care products. H. Seirafi, K. Farsinejad, A. Firooz, SM Davoudi, RM Robati, MS Hoseini, AH Ehsani, B Sadr; Biophysical characteristics of skin in diabetes: a controlled study; JEADV 2009, 23, 146-149; Cutaneous complications are common in diabetes, with approcimately 30% of patients experiencing some skin involvement during the course of their illness; these may also be the first presenting sign of diabetes or even herald the diagnosis by many years. The skin involvement in diabetes encompasses various clinical entities such as acanthosis nigricans, necrobiosis lipoidica, diabetic dermopathy and neuropathy, sclerodema and granuloma annulare. Seyyed Masoud Davoudi, Saeed Keshavarz, Bardia Sadr, Majid Shohrati, Mohammad Mehdi Naghizadeh, Khalil Farsinejad, Mehdi Rashighi-Firouzabadi, Hamed Zartab, Alireza Firooz; Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss in patients with a history of sulphur mustard contact: a case-control study, JEADV 2009, 23, 940-944 Sulfur mustard is a powerful vesicant (blistering agent) and a member of the heterogeneous group of chemicals that are referred to as chemical warfare agents. This agent reacts with skin proteins, degrading structure of both cells and underlying extracellular matrix. Sulfur mustard DNA adducts are believedto be the most critical lesions. D. Boudier, S. Mazalrey, S. Goffflo, E. Vignau, B. Closs; Double approach to improve epidermal barrier function; Personal Care, September 2009 The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against unwanted influences from the environment and to protect the body from waterloss. This barrier function is ensured mainly by the stratum corneum, the upper layer of the epidermis. The stratum corneum comprises corneocytes, which are keratinised keratinocytes, surrounded by lamellar lipid membranes. Thse lamellar lipids play a fundamental role in the structure and functions of the epidermis. They cement the corneocytes and with them form the permeabl barrier of the epidermis. Alain Khaiat, Paula Belinski, Haim Lasser, Yoram Kamron, Unique technology for safe and effective skin whitening; Personal Care, September 2009 Melanin, the dark pigment in the skin, is produced in the basal layer of the epidermis by specialized cells, the melanicytes, and transported, following its complete formation, to the upper layers of the epidermis where it enters into skin cells (keratinocytes) to give them their typical colour. Ageing- associated accumulation of melanin in the upper layer of the skin is the main cause for pigmentation disorders, which is observed in Asian skin as uneven hyperpigmentation at younger ages. Nannay Schürer, Meike Bock; Lowering lesional surface pH in acne: A new treatment modality for Herpifix; University of Osnabrück, Deparment of Dermatology; H\litlist\studies 12/06 182 The acid skin surface pH has antimicrobial activities. Increased growth of Propionibacterium acnes contributes to the pathogenesis of acne. Therefore, the pH of inflammatory acne lesions was determined prior to and after lesional acidification employing Herpifix, a microphoretic system. The pH was correlated with the number of acne lesions. A total of 30 volunteers with acne vulgaris participated in this crossover study applying either Herpifix or a dummy to inflammatory lesions. Sainhillier JM, Mac S, Tarrit C, Mermet P, Mougin D, Assessment of the Nourishing Effect of a Lip Balm. Exploratory Study; Société Skinexigence SAS CHU Saint Jacques, Besancon, France; The main characteristics of the lips are their fragility and sensitivity to dryness and exposure to UV. This phenomenon is an issue for many people, more specifically with the presence of chapped lips in winter. The aim of this study was to objectivate and illustrate the nourishing effect off a lip balm in the winter season (November to December 2008) after repeated applications during 28 days. G. Sliwinski, A. Schneider, M. Schulz, M. Wolf, A. Fiolka, M. Meyer, H. Feussner, Z. Sliwinski, R. Poll, c. Thiele; Physical Organ Phantoms for Training in Minimal Invasive Surgery (MIS); O. Dössel and W.C. Schlegel, WC 2009, IFMBE Proceedings 25/VI, pp. 120-123, 2009; In surgical training realistic phantoms of organs are necessary. Today’s system only meet the requirements of a simulation of a medical intervention very limited. As of now it is only possible to learn the basis skills on such systems. Complicated and complex procedures have to be practised in experiments on animls or under supervision on the patient. As of now the physical organ phantoms do not display the requested features. Krueger N., Luebberding S., Oltmer M, Streker M, Kerscher M.; Age Realted Changes in Skin Mechanical Properties – Quantitative Evaluation Of 120 Female Sugjects In A Trial With A Strict Design; University of Hamburg, Department of Chemistry, Devision of Cosmetic Science One of the most important functions of the skin is the protection against mechanical exposure. The mechanical properties of the skin depend on the thickness and qualitative characteristics of the epidermis, dermis and subcutis. During the aging process the tree layered skin system changes strongly accompanied by changes in its mechanical properties, resulting in higher vulnerability and other skin diseases. Pauline D.H.M. Verhaegen, Evelien M. Res, Arna van Engelen, Esther Middelkoop, Pau van Zuijlen; The Reviscometer: a reliable, non-invasive measurement tool for anisotropy in normal skin and scar tissue; VU Medical Centre, Amsterdam, The Netherlands There is an increasing need to perform non-invasive objective measurements of tissue anisotropy (directional variations in viscoelasticity). Currently, no reliable measurement tool is available for measurements of the anisotropy of the skin. A new measurement tool that may provide objective data on tissue anisotropy is the Reviscometer, which measures the Resonance Runningg Time (RRT) by transmitting an acoustic shock wave. Dr. Laurent Sousselier, Caroline Camuzat; White biotechnology new source of ingredients; Personal Care, September 2009, pp. 49-51 White biotechnology has been used for millennia for the preparation of bread and alcoholic drinks. Sumerians had mastered alcoholic fermentation, for the manufacture of beer, 4,000 years AD. Nowadays, white biotechnology is used for several applications. In the pharmaceutical sector it is used for the production of antibiotics such as famous Penicillin, and it is used for for energy in bioethanol production. H\litlist\studies 12/06 183 J.F. Hermanns, L. Petit,O. Martalo C. Piérard-Franchimont, G. Cauwenbergh, G.E. Piérard; Unraveling the Patterns of Subclinical Pheomelanin-Enriched Facial Hyperpigmentation: Effect of Depigmenting Agents; Dermatology 2000, 201: 118-122 During photoaging, the density of melanin chromatophores is heterogeneous in the epidermis. To define the patterns of pheomelanin-enriched melanotic hypermelanosis of the face in phototype II subjects and to assess the effect of depigmenting agents. Azelaic acid and glycolic acid were tested as well as a soy extract, reported to reduce pigmentation through interaction with the protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) of keratinocytes. Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM; Rheological behaviour and the SPF of sunscreens; Laboratory of Cosmetic Technology, University of Sao Paulo, Brazil; Due to a large variety of sunscreens, it is important to study among other things, the effect of three vehicle on the thickness and uniformity of sunscreen films. In this study, we determined the physical stability of five sunscreens SPF 15 (FA to FG), containing or not PVP/eicosene crosspolymer (PVP/EC), and two different self-emulsifying bases (SEB), and also evaluated the influence of the vehicle in their SPF. P. Clarys, P. Deriemaeker, r. Clijsen, J. Taeymans, A.O. Barel; The influence of stratum corneum hydration on body fat determination by bioelectrical impedance analsis; ISBS Besancon 2009 The use of bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) of the body (or parts of the body) is a modern method for the estimation of the amount of body fat. Depending on the used instrument contact between the instrument and the body is made at specific skin sites (e.g. hands or feet). It was the aim of the present study to evaluate the influence of the stratum corneum hydration at the contact points used for BIA on the body fat estimation. H. Taylor, P. Xiao; New techniques for occupational skin health surveillance; ISBS Besancon 2009; Ill health due to skin exposure remains a considerable problem, particularly in the workplace. In our aim to reduce the incidence of occupational skin disease and ill health due to skin exposure we need to understand how exposure to substances and physical factors is affecting the skin and how best to identify early signs or pre-clinical signs of skin disease. This project investigated possible new techniques for occupational skin health surveillance. The project focused on techniques that would identify sub-clinical damage that could lead to irritant contact dermatitis. G. Piérard, P. Quatresooz; Corneoxenometry: a stratum corneum toxicity model; ISBS Besancon 2009; Predicting the damaging effects of peeling agents on human stratum corneum is hazardous in conditions close to the in vivo situation. Comparisons between the effects of different compounds or different concentrations of a given compound may prove to be difficult to perform. By contrast, the in vitro corneoxenometry bioassay is safe, quite easy to handle and serve to predict some specific effects occurring in clinical practice. The effects of different concentrations of glycolic acid (GA) and those of problematic commercially available phenol formulations were tested using the corneoxenometry bioassay. H\litlist\studies 12/06 184 N. Ismaili, Y. Afifi, B. Hassam, T. Lihoreau, A. Elkhyat, A. Jeudy, P. Humbert; Typology of maghreb skins; ISBS Besancon, 2009 To study the biometric characteristics of maghreb skin using common cutaneous exploration techniques and by comparing the results by age bracket and by sex. This prospective, randomised monocentre study was carried out on the forehead, the cheeks and the forearm of healthy volunteers giving informed written consent. Healthy volunteers were included of both sexes and of maghreb origin who agreed to apply nothing to the face and arms 24 hours before the study and not to participate in any other test during the study period. N. Waranuch, M. Sirada, K. Ingkaninan, W. Wisuitiprot; The correlation between Cutometer’s parameters of skin elasticity and ages of Thai female volunteers; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Skin elasticity is one of aging signs that can be measured using several equipments. Cutometer is one among those used to quantify skin elasticity. Skin property can be demonstrated in term of Cutometer’s parameters; Ua/Uf: gross elasticity, Ur/Ue: net elasticity, Uv/Ue: ration of viscoelastic to elastic distension and Ur/Uf: relative elastic parameters. However, the correlations of its parameters with skin properties reported in many publications are often in disagreement. Besides, a report on Asian population is limited. W. Pratchyapruit; Grading of improvement and relapse in melasma of thai females after 8 weeks- treatment with a combined cream of hydroquinone, steoid and tretinoin; ISBS Barcelona, 2009 Melasma is a common skin problem in any races including Asians. It commonly occurs in Thai females, age 30-40 years and females outnumber males about 13:1. In addition to multiple etiologic factors, the environmental factor of Thailand as a tropical and sunny climate country constitutes a definite factor responsible for improvement and relapse of pigmentation after any treatments. At present, the topical treatment consisting of hydroquinone (HQ), steroid and tretinoin together with sunlight protection is a standard treatment for melasma. A.O. Barel, R. Clysen, P. Clarys; Evaluation of the elastic properties of the skin using the suction method (Cutometer). Which parameters to use for claims in anti-aging treatments? ISBS Barcelona, 2009 In cosmetic claims concerning the efficacy of anti-aging products and treatments, general terms such as elasticity, firmness, tonus etc. are used. Based on the suction method, the Cutometer (Courage- Khazaka, Germany) evaluates quantitavely the elastic and viscoelastic properties of the skin. In the Strain versus Time mode (which is mostly used) the vertical deformation of the skin due to vacuum, is measured in function of time and various linear skin deformation parameters are recorded. N. Krueger, S. Luebberding, M. Oltmer, M. Streker, M. Kerscher; Age-related changes in skin mechanical properties. Quantitative evaluation of 120 female subjects in a trial with a strict design. ISBS Barcelona, 2009 The most commonly used method to determine the mechanical ability of skin is the creep test using suction chamber devices. Until now there is no scientific consensus upon which skin deformation parameters are particularly suitable to describe age related changes in human skin mechanics The aim of this study was to examine common mechanical skin parameters to find those best representing the influence of aging. H\litlist\studies 12/06 185 F. Morizot, J. Latreille, S. Gardinier, L. Staner, C. Guinot, A. Porcheron, E. Tschachler ; Effects of partial sleep deprivation on face appearance and skin properties ; ISBS Barcelona, 2009 A reduction of sleep time on a chronic basis is a hallmark of life in modern society (“modern 24h- society”). Sleep has important homeostatic functions and sleep deprivation has effects on brain plasticity, energy conservation, tissue restoration, immune response and thermoregulatory function.Our objective was to investigate the effect of partial sleep deprivation on facial appearance and on skin functions (skin barrier, skin hydration, skin temperature, sebaceous secretions and skin sensitivity). A Bigouret, F. de Oliveira, C. Gehin ; Objectivation of the individual sensory state by the assessment of specific biophysical properties of the skin in different climatic conditions ; ISBS Barcelona, 2009 The CSTB in Nantes is specialized in the study on the climate effects on buildings and on human comfort. To improve human comfort in different climatic conditions, the CSTB must understand the interactions between the environment, the human body and individual perception. As the skin is a sensory organ and the first barrier between the environment and the human interior, some CSTB researchers have choice to study the biophysical properties of the skin to objectify human perception. P. Contreiras Pinto, J.G. Morais, L. Monteiro Rodrigues; TcpO2 decay rates used as a metabolic indicator of the human skin in vivo; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Transcutaneous variables such as TepO2 and skin’s microcirculation (LDF) had been used to approach skin metabolic activity, particularly in conditions that are related with the normal physiologic state. The sensibility of these variables to changes increase with the use of dynamical protocols that overstimulates skin and permits the study in extreme conditions. The 100% oxygen ventilation atmosphere used as a challenge test evokes the capacity to understand and quantify the maximum Oxygen disposition in the skin, which ultimately may be related with several skin conditions involving cutaneous perfusion. P. Contreiras Pinto, J.G. Morais, L. Monteiro Rodrigues; To understand skin circulatory physiology by low perfusion experiments with a monocompartmental model. The influence of age; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Monocompartmental evaluation of Laser Doppler Flowmetry (LDF) and transcutaneous oxygen (TepO2) data has been applied to low perfusion experiments, accepting that oxygen disposition rates may be reliable predictors of vascular impairment. After defining a new compartmental model to analyze TepO2 and LDF data from dynamical maneuvers, the authors applied this model to a group of normal individuals (young versus old) to evaluate the applicability of the model and the influence of age over those parameters. P. Contreiras Pinto, C. Parreirao, L. Monteiro Rodrigues; Characterization of sensitive skin syndrome volunteer’s barrier by dynamical analysis; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Several studies suggest that 50% of the population considers to suffer from some cutaneous sensibility. Some of these individuals do not show any objective skin sign and therefore his characterization is often difficult or even impossible. The auto-perception of these symptoms is the only way to diagnose the condition. The use of dynamical measurements such as the Plastic Occlusion Stress Test (POST) combined with compartmental analysis had been suggested to be a more sensitive method to discriminate small differences in the skin barrier function. H\litlist\studies 12/06 186 M Lanctin, A. Nkengne, G. Stamtas, F. Le Goff, A. Papillon, C. Bertin ; Changes on body skin as a function of age ; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Facial skin aging has been a great concern in cosmetodermatology and many publications have documented the age-related transformations of skin. However to our knowledge, few studies have been conducted to systematically investigate the changes of skin attributes in different body sites. This study was designed to assess the link between age and skin body attributes such as hydration, firmness, color, stretch marks and cellulite. The study involved 150 healthy women Caucasian volunteers aged between 18 and 70 years of age and with a Body Mass index (BMI) between 20 and 26 kg/m². A. Elkhyat, Y. Afifi, B. Hassam, P. Humbert; Human skin wettability cartography; ISBS Besancon, 2009 For decades the surface hydrophobicity has been reported to play an important role in many biological processes, such as cellular adhesion, contact inhibition, elasticity, functionality of tissue membranes, functioning of intracellular structures, and adhesion of infectious microorganisms. The skin affinity with water is estimated by measuring of its water contact angle. To establish a cartography of skin’s wettablility by Ow measuring at nine sites. The hydration and lipidic index (HI, LI) and the skin pH are measured. I. Angelova-Fisher, D. Wuthe, D. Zillikens, B. Kahle; Non-invasive bioengineering assessment of the skin barrier function in patients with chronic venous insufficiency; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Chronic venous insufficiency (CVI) comprises all symptome caused by permanent venous and capillary hypertension. While the clinical manifestations of the disease have been well characterized, there is little knowledge on the skin barrier function in the affected individuals. The aim of the study was to assess non-invasively the epidermal barrier function in patients with CVI stage C2 and C4 according to the CEAP classification and compare the findings to a group of healthy controls (stage C0). 30 patients with CVI without concomitant diseases and 15 healthy, aged-matched volunteers were included in the study following photopletismography and duplex sonography examination of the lower extremities. W. Siyu, L. Li; Effect of sweating by exercise on stratum corneum hydration, skin surface sebum content and pH value; ISBS Besancon, 2009 The physiological indexes of skin include stratum corneum hydration, skin surface sebum content and pH value, which could reflect physiological state of the local and systematic organism, and also could be affected by many factors from internal or external changes. Many studies have ben put on these physiological indexes, but there is no report of studying on effect of sweating by exercise on sebum, hydration and pH value of face skin. To observe the effect of sweating by exercise on stratum corneum hydration, skin surface sebum content and pH value of forehead and pars zygomatica of healthy individuals of different ages in order to collect the numerical data as the reference for exterior use drugs and before / after sports’ cosmetics. G. Stamatas, J. Nikolovski; Non-invasive optical methods for the study of infant skin; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Until recently, the study of infant skin in vivo has been limited to smple non-invasive techniques focusing on skin surface properties such as stratum corneum (SC) hydration, trans-epidermal water loss, and SC pH. With this work we demonstrate the development off non-invasive optical methods adapted for measurements on infant skin and the use of such methods to document skin maturation changes during the first years of life. Optical methods can be classified into methods relating to spectroscopy, microscopy, macroimaging, or a combination of the above. Skin spectroscopy can be achieved in vivo with the use of fiber optic probes that can come in contact with the skin site of interest. H\litlist\studies 12/06 187 J.W. Wiechers, S. Mac-Mary, S. Vacheron, J.M. Sainthillier, E. Garcia, G. Khazaka, P. Humbert, B. Gabard; How to measure exactly the same location on the face as a function of time with digital photography; ISBS Besancon, 2009 The fight against skin aging is truly international, although the symptoms may differ throughout the world. Whereas Caucasians notice wrinkles as one of the first signs of their passing years, Asians observe skin discolourations. All of us want to have a skin with a perfect colour (a uniform complexion without any discolouration) and a perfect smooth surface (without any wrinkles or other signs of roughness). Hence, there must be products to achieve these effects as well as ways to measure whether these products are successful. K.P. Wilhelm, G. Springmann, S. Bielfedt; Functional food, food supplements and the skin, ISBS Besancon, 2009 Functional food and food supplements are foods or dietary products that should provide a health benefit beyond basic nutrition. The worldwide market for these products is estimated to be in excess of $ 100 billion. Such products are regulated in Europe under the food (supplement) legislation. However there is a potential distinction and separation between food supplements and drugs. While initially functional food and food supplements were mainly provided as a “soft alternative” to pharmaceutical drugs to improve health parameters that could be early linked to nutrition i.e. lower cholersterol levels, prevent osteoporosis, induce natural sleep etc. O.I. Voloschenko, O.V. Payetska, O.I. Yalovenko, T.G. Momot; corneometry in assessing health safety of skin purification products; ISBS Besancon, 2009 The research was done into the ability of skin to keep and restore moisture after using cosmetic products for skin purifying. The level of volunteers’ skin hydratation was measured by the indicator Corneometer CM 825 made by “Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH” under the constant value sof moisture and temperature during the whole experiment. The care product subject to testing was: Shampoo and Shower gel 2 in 1, which contains aqua, sodium laureth sulphate, sodium chloride, cocamidopropil betaine, perfume etc. K.A. Tadini; Acetil hexapeptide-3 in a cosmetic formulation acts on skin anisotropy – clinical study; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Acetyl hexapeptide-3 has been used in anti-aging topical formulations since it has demonstrated effects in improving the skin appearance. However, there are few scientific studies about its effects on epidermis and dermis, when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus the aim of this study was to determine the clinical efficacy of the acetyl hexapeptide-3 using biophysical techniques. Formulations with and without acetyl hexapeptide-3 were applied to the ventral forearm and the face area of human volunteers. Skin conditions were evaluated after 2 and 4 week period daily applications, by analyzing the stratum corneum water content. J.-M. Sainthillier, S. Mac, M. Pfulg, V. Gribinski, V. Guillou, J. de Rigal, C. Montastier, P.Humbert ; Comparative instrumental study of aesthetic dermatology acts and cosmetic protocols ; ISBS Besancon, 2009 Mesotgherapy and chemical peels are commonly performed in dermatological practice. However few data are available to compare their cutaneous effects on the face with those resulting from the repeated application of cosmetic products. A mesotherapy study (meso study) and a chemical-peel study (peel study) devised according to criteria defined by LaClinic of Montreux were compared with two different cosmetic protocols combining a serum, a day cream and an eye contour cream for the meso study and a cream for the peel study. H\litlist\studies 12/06 188 Maia Campos, Gianeti, Kanashiro A., Lucisano-Valim YM, Gaspar LR; In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of an association of bioflavonoids with liposoluble vitamins, NCBI 2009, A new tendency in cosmetic formulation s is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. Dal Belo, Gaspar, Maia Campos, Marty; Skin Penetration of Epigallocatechin-3-Callate and Quercetin from Green Tea and Gingko biloba Extracts Vehiculated in Cosmetic Formulation; NCBI 2009; Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrage and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Campos PM, Goncalves GM, Gaspar LR; In vitro antioxidants activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods ; NCBI 2009; Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic producs to protect and to reduce the signs off ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C and its derivatives, magnesium ascorby phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra- isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Gaspar LR, Camargo FB Jr., Gianeti MD, Maia Campos PM; Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins; NCBI 2009, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection wre analysed after 3h, 15 and 30 days of application. H\litlist\studies 12/06 189 Gaspar LR, Campos PM; Photostability and efficacy studies of topical formulations containing UV-filters combination and vitamins A, C and E, NCBI 2009, It is already known that the photostability of a sunscreen is important for its performance on human skin. On the other hand, there are many formulations besides sunscreens containing combinations of UV-filters and daily use active substances with other claims like hydration and anti-aging effects. Vitamins A, C and E are frequently added in these kinds of products and it is not known if the UV- filters have some influence on the hydration and antiaging effects of these vitamins on the skin as well as on their stability mainly when photounstable UV-filters like avobenzone and octoyl methoxycinnamate are present in the formulation. Dal’Beo SE, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM; Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques; NCBI 2009, The polysaccharide-rich composition of Aloe vera extracts (Aloe barbadensis Miller), often used in cosmetic formulations, may impart moisturizing properties to the product. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration, after a single and a 1- and 2-week period of application, by using skin bioengineering techniques. Stable formulations containing 5% (w/w) of a trilaureth-4 phosphate-based blend were supplemented with 0.10%, 0,25% or 0,50% (w/w) of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract and applied to the volar forearm of 20 female subjects. Tadini KA, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM; Epidermal effects of tretinoin and isotretinoin: influence of Isomerism; NCBI 2009, The efficacy of tretinoin is well established in the treatment of acne and photoaged skin, however as a typical side effect of tretinoin treatment most patients develop a low-grade irritant dermatitis. Since isotretinoin topical treatment usually shows much lower incidence and intensity of adverse effecs than tretinoin topical treatment, histological studies are needed to scientifically evaluate the effects of isotretinoin application on epidermis and also to assess if it can be used in anti-aging products as an alternative to tretinoin. Susanne Thoma; Beziehung zwischen dem gemessenen transepidermalen Wasserverlust und der Messsondentemperatur des Tewameters; Inauguraldissertation zur Erlangung der Doktorwürde der Medizinischen Universität zu Lübeck, 1996 Die Haut stellt eine wichtige Barriere für den Körper zwischen Umwelt und Körperinnerem dar. Die Barrierefunktion wird im Wesentlichen vom Stratum corneum, der Hornschicht, übernommen. Trotzdem kommt es zu einem Wasserverlust über die Haut, der in zwei verschiedene Anteile, den Wasserverlust durch das Schwitzen und den Wasserverlust über passive Diffusion unterteilt werden kann. Der passive Wasserverlust, der ständig vorhanden ist, wird als transepidermaler Wasserverlust (TEWL) oder auch im Gegensatz zum Schwitzen als „Perspiratio insensibilis“ bezeichnet. Durch das Straum corneum können Wasser und andere Moleküle nur über passive Diffusion gelangen. Die Diffusion erfolgt entlang eines Konzentrationsgradienten und folgt somit im Prinzip dem Fick’schen Diffusionsgesetz.