Acknowledge Men 1 of Malwa.

mNORTHERN INDIA INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY LUDHIANA INTERNSHIP REPORT INTERNSHIP DONE AT MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. LUDHIANA JUNE-JULY 2011 SUBMITTED BY: - ARBIND KUMAR LOVEJEET FASHION DESIGN 2009-2012 1 m MALWA ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I would like to thank Mr.Vishav Bandhu, Centre incharge NIIFT Ludhiana for providing us with this opportunity. Ms. Deepti Sharma, course co-ordinator Fashion Design Department NIIFT Ludhiana for all the encouragement and support. I would like to thank Mr. Tanveer [H.R] for allowing us to undergo this internship at MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. (LUDHIANA). I would also like to thank Mr. Deepak [I.E.D] for his guidance and support throughout this internship project at MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. 2 m MALWA PREFACE My summer training started on 8th JUNE, 2011 in MALWA INDUSTRIES LIMITED, LUDHIANA. I was assigned all department team for brand Levis and Topshop to work with. During my Internship‘ Project, I completed three phases of my project, which are: 1) First Stage: Department: Production Mentor: Mr. Tanveer Topic: Production divided into show many category like…cutting, stitching, Washing, finishing, etc. 2) Second Stage: Department: Design Mentor: Pritha Sood Topic: Designer explores new design for Buyer. 3) Third stage: Department: Product Merchandising Mentor: Mr. Yatish Topic: Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the Buyer. 3 m CONTENTS MALWA 1 COMPANY PROFIL 2 FABRIC STORE 3 DESIGNE SECTION 4 SAMPLE DEPARTMENT 5 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 6 CAD DEPARTMENT 7 STITCHING DEPARTMENT 8 WASHING DEPARTMENT 9 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 10 QUALITY MANAGEMENT 11 HUMAN RESORCE DEPARTMENT (H.R.D) 12 MARCHANDISING DEPARMENT 4 m MALWA COMPANY PROFILE Company Name Business Types Owner Product/Service : : : Malwa Industries Limited Manufacturer Mr. Rishi Oswal : Denim Fabric in All Range, Denim Jean 1997 Malwa Denim Above 1000 people 2.5million pieces annually Year of Establishment : Brands : Number of Employees : Production Capacity Annual Turnover Address : : : Machhiwara, Ludhiana, Punjab http://www.malwagroup.com Company Website URL: 5 of India in recent years. In recognition of its excellent track record in Exports. Malwa has today. Commercial operations started in FY97-98 and since then the company has been growing at a fast pace.5million pieces annually in capacities to Malwa's denim stable. it has been honoured with Export Performance Awards by the Govt.house studio .m ABOUT MALWA HISTORY MALWA In 1997. Mr. Yarns & Fibers. Rishi Oswal. prized knowledge of emerging fashion trends in denim making MIL a trendsetter by virtue of this knowledge. the scion of the Oswal family and the Managing Director of Malwa Industries Limited started the denim manufacturing facility in response to the increased market demand for Jeans in the 1990's. With real time knowledge of the latest trends. become synonymous with superlative quality & product excellence. Malwa has crafted the most exquisite collection of fabrics & garments that promises to leave you spellbound). finishes & looks in denimwear from its Italian operation. The facility brings to Malwa's fold. DESIGN AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Our core strength is being Product Development & Design inputs supported by in.50 million pairs of Jeans annually. MANUFACTURE MIL achieves a current production capacity of 20 million meters of denim fabrics & 4.our success products are exported to over 40countries worldwide where these are sold under some of the biggest denim brands & designer labels that come to mind. Weaves. MALWA 6 . The Spring / Summer 2012 collection is a unique blend of sophisticated and raw looks created through an intriguing play of Colors. This facility also adds 2. The Mills are situated amidst the rich cotton growing belts of India namely Punjab and Himachal Pradesh in Northern India. Crossrol. Malwa yarn conforms to the most stringent International Quality standards in production. The total spindleage of both the units is around 140000. viscose yarn. The mills are equipped with hi-tech state-of-the-art machineries from worldrenowned textile machinery manufacturers like Rieter.m MALWA COTTON SPINNING MILLS LTD. Schlafhorst and Savio. Malwa yarn is well sought after by domestic & international markets. All the above process machines are also equipped with latest on-line quality control equipments combined with computerized information system. An evergrowing demand for our products in the global markets is evident from our expanding export base. (MCSM) Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd or MCSM is among the top ten textile mills in the Indian sub-continent. We also produce polyester yarn. We procure the best quality acrylic fiber from world-renowned manufacturers and produce Acrylic cotton yarn & high bulk Acrylic yarn. Dye house facility at our Works enables us to produce dyed yarn of exact shades. Trutszler. The Life Solution’s Advantage: MALWA 7 . Raw materials like polyester& viscose too are procured only from reputed manufacturers. dyed viscose yarn and viscose cotton yarn. polyester cotton yarn. World wide recognized & accepted high-reliability Uster quality control equipments form the core of our R&D and constant monitoring quality control department. We develop total HR solutions that deliver higher levels of business success at affordable costs where distance is of no relevance. experience. 8 . which demand their creative and management time. connections and information to facilitate this process for you. We are a team of experienced domain specialists providing clients with high quality solutions in Recruitments. To offer our Private and Institutional clients a structural multilevel and multitasking range of services that translate into a unique and visionary ―all-in-one‖ product.m        It is a Group of Professionals which ultimately saves Time and Cost of the Client. management consultancy. Fully equipped to help organizations focus on their core areas of business. training. We bring to your disposal all the expertise. Eliminate fake candidatures/enriched database/authenticate resumes. m 9 . FRN which carries the information regarding the fabric is entered in ledger book. Depending whether the fabric is Denim or Twill it is entered accordingly in the respect ledgers. Further a computerized FRN is issued to commercial department for record purpose. maintain stock levels and give issuance. which carries the dyeing contract number. 10 . and total amount of fabric in meters. Usually quality check is done on swatches/pieces of fabric with their respective rolls. FRN again comes back to fabric store where it is entered into the computer. Store supervisors verify and tally the information with their record and unload the fabric and store it in their fabric store. roll#. Further after checking sampling or cutting department sends a request asking for rolls of fabric which have been checked by quality department.m FABRIC STORE MALWA The purpose of the fabric store is primarily to check the quality and quantity of the fabric upon its arrival. FRN is then sent to the Commercial department in which the commercial department enters the ―Dyeing contract number‖. IGWP(inward gate pass) is attached with FRN(fabric receipt note). the amount of quantity on each roll. but also to store them. Quality control department then randomly selects the rolls from the received fabric and does quality check on it. It should be noted here that records in fabric store are kept in registers as well as on computers. Further a form is also attached which carries the information regarding the fabric i.e. the slack is woven into the fabric.Cause by tying spools of yarn together. 11 .  Starting Mark: .  Snarls:-It form due to less tension in yarn or due to more twist.  Slabs:-Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. the yarn elongates under tension. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.When the loop is started.  Thick warp: -less twisted in yarn then normal twist in the yarn.Mixed yarn is a different fiber blend used on the warp frame.  Double End: .  Floats: . resulting in a streak in the fabric.due to problem in electrical sensor does not work problem. resulting in a streak in the fabric.yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame.  Missing End: .  Cracks:-These are light streaks that usually in garment that do not follow warp yarn.  Double Pick: .Yarn passes without interlacements of warp or weft.any extra yarn used by the weaving. MALWA  Miss pack: . It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn.m TYPES OF DEFECTS: Knots: . during the warp direction.  Multiply Breakage:-caused by broken needle. m MALWA 12 . m DESIGN SECTION:- MALWA In Design section Designer Explore New design for Buyer and communicate with new buyer. 2. 8. Theme Board Mood Board Inspiration Board Story Board Color Board Sketch Pattern FINAL Garment 13 . 4. 3. Spring / Summer ' 2. Autumn / winter’ DESIGNE PROSSES: 1. 5. 6. 7. COLLECTION:Collection made by designer for 2 sessions 1. They make Sample according to the tech sheet given by the buyer. m MALWA 14 . Pilot run SAMPLE ROOM & QUALITY CHECK 1. Patteren devolved 3. Before wash garment stitching quality check 2. Before wash garment inspection report 3. Planning Control & testing Quality Control SAMPLING PROCESS: 1. Proto sample 4. Fit sample 5. Pre production 7.After wash garment inspection report 15 . Size set sample 6. Person Involved in sampling:           Development Team Designers/Sample developers Garment Technologists Packing & Dispatch Sourcing & Dispatch Costing & Finance Sales & Marketing Production Team. Tech pack & spec sheet 2.m SAMPLING DEPARTMENT MALWA There are different phases of sampling the first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the buyer and full review/ risk analysis by the development and production terms. The buyer will assess the exporter and this organization only by the samples. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters.After wash garment measurement report 5. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric a clear idea on costing and manufacturing difficulties.Before dispatch put signature on all measurement format 7. 16 .Discuss any technical quality issue with MALWA INPORTANCE AND NEED OF SAMPLING Sampling is the best way to place an order through it is difficult and fine ending process it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. decide the ability of an exporter.All sample devolved according tech pack 9. which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks. by doing sampling the exporter can optimized the processing parameters for mass. Besides.Check quality and needle point in sampling 8. The samples. All sample quality and measurement assurance 6.m 4. m 17 . He feeds all the sizes into the computer system and Gerber plotter makes a maker for all sizes required in the cutting standard. After the fabric sample arrives from the washing department it is again measured for any changes. The cutting department starts it working after it has been provided with the cutting standard by the PPC. lot. After that the cut fabric is collected and fed to the stitching department by the feeding department. who grades all the sizes according to the approved sample.m DEPARTMENT OF CUTTING MALWA Once the fabric sample is approved. not that front panel is of some other tone and the back panel of other. folding is done. Sequence in Cutting Room: Marker Making ↓ Fabric Spreading ↓ Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay ↓ 18 . Because according to how much fabric is shrinking the fabric would be cut accordingly. After that shade matching is done because when the fabric is stitched it should have one shade. amount of pieces and etc. Further shade wise fabric layering starts to take place. There-after before wash measurements are done on the sample and sent to washing. Then marker making of single size is done. where the quality department gives it comprehensive fabric analysis report especially shrinkage values to the cutting department. fabric sample is cut out and stitched. First of all a Zero base pattern is made. the fabric is relaxed and the marker is placed on top of the pile of fabrics and the fabrics are cut according to the marker. Cutting basically means the cutting of the fabric into required sizes so that it can be stitched into the required size and shape. When the fabric sample is approved the sample goes to the cutting master. and sample approval is done before cutting. Further ―Details of Cutting Standard and Order Closing‖ is sent to quality department. As told before in report before bulk production starts. After cutting. as it minimizes errors. folding is basically the marking of the fabric according to the size. the cutting department must ensure that proper cutting must be made according to the size requirements of the customer. Grading helps to cut the bulk fabric. a sample has to be approved. After that the fabric sample graded (given positive or negative values according to the amount of shrinkage) and that is done by tallying the made sample with the approved sample. Then place the cutting machine at any corner of the table 3. Then the operator moves the machine by hand through the stationary fabric layers and cut along marker lines until finish the marker.m Fabric Cutting ↓ MALWA Numbering ↓ 100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed. the rest of the Garment manufacturing process would be badly hampered. 2. Band Knife 3. 2. Working principle of Straight Knife as Cutting Accessories The Working Principle of Straight Knife of Garment Manufacturing which is used on section is below 1. 4. End Cutter. If any faults happen during cutting. switch on this cutting machine. Only Expert Cutting Masters are allowed in Cutting Section of Garment to operate the whole cutting process of Garment Cloth. Firstly. ↓ Shorting & Bundling ↓ Input to Sewing Room. Then switch on the blade. 19 . Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department in garment industry: 1. Straight Knife. 3. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker. After that arranged a serial number wise each & every pieces. Blade moving vertically through a flat working table. Sticker:-After Lay‘s cutting. Work load high.m Disadvantage of straight knife as cutting machine. MALWA 2. size number. Spreading:It is the process of arraning fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. End Cutter: -This is suitable for plies end cutting because every plies should be equal dimension. 2. Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay. Fabric cutting:On the fabric lay/ spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Skill hand required. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each pattern in stack form care must be taken to avoid cutting defect. 6. Machine remains stationary and fabric is moveable. 3. This machine worked as saw mill technique. 4. 2. 20 . Specially used to cut small parts more accurately. 3. Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hamper. 2. Block pieces of fabric required in bundle form to cut by this machine. Disadvantages of Band Knife Machine: 1. 5. Push cutting needles in better vision but is more dangerous. Fabric wastage is high. Band Knife Machine: 1. workers sticks a sticker on each piece with serial number and with cut. 1. Normally height of the lay/ fabric is limited up to maximum 2and 1/2 inches high. M 5 L.M 7 L.M 4Co-odinetor TABLE 5.Sticker Man 21 .M L.M 8 S.M:.M TABLE 3. 6 L. a particular code is given to particular panel to prevent the mixing.m Bundling:- MALWA After cutting is over.M L. an indent is issued to the store for procurement of the exact number of trims / threads that are required for the particular lot.M 9 L.Layer Man. 10 L. . S.Cutter Man. bundles are made as per their sizes. 1 2 3 2Co-odinetor TABLE 2.M 7 S.M 4 C.M 9 C.M C.M 9 S.M:.M S.M 7 C. all the ready material is then fed onto the respective lines for production - CUTTING DEPARTMENT In charge Supervisor 1co-odinetor TABLE 1. Once the cutting is over.M 6 S.M 3Co-odinetor TABLE 4. 4 L.M:.M 6 C.M 5 C. 8 L.M 1 2 3 C.M 10 C.M 10 S.M 1 2 3 S.M 5 S. Numbering is also done after bundling For a particular panel of a particular layer to give a unique identification to it) so that each piece of same pattern / size is sewed together from the same lot of fabric to avoid alteration and rejections.M C.M 4 S.M L.M S. After every thing has been organized.M L.Helpers will collect the materials and give it to the lines.M 8 C. C. Here you see a bundle of all the cut pieces necessary to complete a pair. 6. Each jean consists of about 14 pieces of denim sewn together.odinetor. 4.1 Layer man-10 Cutter man. 22 .1 Supervisor-1 Co-odinetor-3 + issue co.m Total number of Manpower in Cutting Department. 7.3 Total – 44 Man power MALWA LAYOUT IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT EFFICIENCY 15% 85% 15% 85% More than 85%Fabric use by cutting department and less than 15% waist by them. In charge.10 Sticker man. 3. 5.15 Re cut man. 1. 2. m MALWA 23 . Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailor calk manual Methods of marker making art time consuming and require a great deal of space. It is a length of paper (same dimension L*B as that of the lays surface) on which all pattern pieces of all sizes are drawn.m MALWA MARKER MAKING Marker. Fabric and distribution of sizes. Therefore any reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment will lead to a increased profit. skill and concentration) MARKER PLANNING Marker planning is imported because when the cutting room cuts cloth. It spends around half of the company turnover. 24 .selectinig the one which gives the shortest marker MANUALLY PRODUCED MAKER It creating by arranging full pattern pieces on marker paper\or directly on the top ply of fabric in a spread. (Requires times. AIM The aim of marker planning is try a number of pattern placements. MARKER MAKING Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style. This is spread over the lay and the pattern lines act as the guide line for cutting. m MALWA 25 . Ex-Scoop pocket on a trouser front. Bartuck. RAISED BED: -Raised Bed used where an operation is required on a small Specific portion of the garment . CYLINDRICAL BED: .m MALWA SEWING DEPARTMENT It is the most important department/ sections of a garment manufacturing industry. 2. 4. 3. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operation.Ex-Over edge. FEED OFF THE ARM: . Inseam of jeans.Feed off the arm is used where a lapped seam has to be used in such a way that the garment part forms a tube. MACHINE BED TYPES1. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstance. Numbring of sewing machine arrangement per line may be upto 60 depending on design and output quantity of garment.Ex-Buttoning.Side seam.Machine with cylinder bed is used where parts are to stitch a small curved or awkward in shape. Trouser Heming. 3. 26 . flat lock. 1. Number of sewing per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the garment to be produce. Button holing. FLAT BED CYLINDRICAL BED RAISED BED FEED OFF THE ARM FLAT BED: . 4.Machine with flat bed is used where large and open part garment parts are required to be stitched.Ex. 2.sewing machine of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. chain stitch done. Bar tack 6. in seam o only over lock 1 Needle 1 lopper do Chain stitch Used: . Over lock: Use. Feed off the Arm: Use.m MALWA TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE:1. Used: . Single needle lock stitch 2. Feed off the Arm 5. Button hole/Key hole Single needle lock stitch: Use-1 bobbin use Used-it is used for single stitch. 27 . Double needle lock stitch: Use.3 Needle.it is used on side and Fly. Over lock 4.2 needle 3 lopper is called 5 threads over lock 2 needle 1 lopper d seam. Double needle lock stitch 3.2 bobbins Used-It is used for double stitch.Side seam sewing of the Garment. Bar Tack: . Back Yoke Attach 3. Back Pocket Hem Manual/ Coin Pocket Hem Manual 2. Back Yoke Top Stitch 5. Back Pocket Decorative Stitch-1 6. Pocket. Used: . Fly etc.2 lopper threads 2 bobbin Used: -It is use for back pocket embroidery stitch. 1/2.It is used for button holing of any garment. Back Yoke Run Stitch 4. POERATION BREAK DOWN (TROUSER) BUYER: TOP SHOP STYLE: 510 SEASSION: S/S DATE: 20-06-2011 1. Back Pocket Mouth Serge 28 .m Button Hole: MALWA Programmed has to set for fix length of Button Hole.Used:-Lopper stitch. Crotch. Back Pocket Decorative Stitch-2 7. Embroidery machine: Use. 3/8 etc. Ex-1/4. Back Panel Check 11. Facing Attached 12.m 8. Pocket Bag Close 14.Front panel Attached 23. Zip Attached 19. Pocket Bag Top Stitch 15. Sew Back Rise 10. Two Right Panel Top Stitch 24. Double Fly Attached 22. Automatic Back Pocket Attached 9. Coin pocket Attached 13. Scoop Attached Top Stitch 17. Stay Pocket 18. Zip Fly Attached 20.Check Front Panel MALWA 29 . Front Rise 25. J Stitch 21. Scoop Attached 16. Label Attached 26. Inseam Attached 28. Side Seam Attached 29.m 27. MALWA 30 . Waist Band Finished 35. Loop Attached 38. then the garment is separated as wastage. Heming Bottom Hem 39. Core Stitch 30. The defects may be for example variation of measurement.If the defect is possible to overcome. where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to defect/find any defect if present in the garment. Band Patch Attached 36. then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction .if the defect is not correction able.Waist band Attached 34. sport etc. Loop Stitch 32.Key Hole 40. fabric defects. Waist Band Marking 33. Loop Marking 37. End Line Checking Final Garment Inspection: Each and every garment Sewing passes through the inspection table/ point. sewing defect. Bar Tuck 31. m MALWA 31 . In the creation of vintage denim jeans. it‘s often through observation of where wear patterns are typically found. Details are added using a fine abrasive paper on a scraping tool. Denim Dry Processing .m MALWA Denim Garments Standard Rules in Dry Processing    The process plan in special effect area will be done according to shade numbers. 32 . In every operation. Before the first washing load is approved. Below is list of operations being carried out on denim garment to achieve VINTAGE (used/worn out) look……             Hand Sand / Hand Scraping Whiskers Chevrons Knee Star / knee whiskers Hot Spot Tacking Grinding Damages / Destruction PP Spray Bleach spots Resin application Pigments & Local tint application etc…. Sometimes a bit of local tint staining is being done into the local areas to emphasize the lighter parts.Basic know how Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. Before one lot number finalized. Where the folds and wrinkles go is where the art part comes in. The jeans then go for a washing with pumice stone to blend in the whiskering and tinting / over dyeing. bundles will be processed separately. Here I shall try to explain some basic Denim Dry Processing techniques. bulk production cannot be continue until the approval is got from quality department. And extra whiskering can be added with sand paper.. dry processes play a very important role and hence important to understand. another lot number never will be processed. The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used. even it can done plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results. lower the coarseness of the paper. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above. The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength & intensity need. Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical its up to operators convenience). Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part gradually. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments. higher the number finer the emery paper. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall / global application as per Standard.DENIM HAND SAND / SCRAPING MALWA Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress look. Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it should look natural & not artificial.m 1. 2. One garment must be done by one operator only to have balance intensity on both the legs. CHEVRON 33 .WHISKERS/ MOUSTACHES. In garment industry from 220. Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system.m On Denim.TACKING & GRINDING Tacking: is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waistband. ‗Destruction‘ is an art which make denim look unique & used. 3. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of 34 . This is being done manually with help of sharp edge Emery paper rolled on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material. After completing wash cycle. it must be removed from garment before making softening. 4. Grinding: is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. back pocket & front pocket corners etc.. this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment. whiskers / Mustaches. MALWA All above operations are carried out in width direction hence its appears intense than hand sand with less strokes. Chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines / impression generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. bottom hems. DAMAGES/DESTRUCTION One of the most popular distressing effects currently . There are many designs & pattern available. because hand sand is carried out in length direction.. Before starting execution placements & pattern must be marked on garments. After application its must be cured in order to have permanent effect on jean. As we can see from all the dry denim processes mentioned above. flow & way of spraying. This can be applied by spray gun or by towel dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. 5. they are mainly manual processes. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. great care has to be given to select the right personnel for these jobs.m wash process to apply on desired area. POTASSIUM PERMANGNATE SPRAY/RUB & BLEACH SPRAY MALWA PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. The quality of the worker can make or break the garment. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others. The same way bleach solution also can be spray or rubbed on the garments on desired area. width of spray. 6. Pigments & Local tint also can be applied through spray gun or rubbing on desired area of denim garment. Hence . 35 . Spray gun pressure. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many parameters needs to be taken into control for doing PP or Bleach spray….PIGMENTS & LOCAL TINT ( STAINING) APPLICATION Need to choose right color of pigment or tint with binder or fixer to apply locally on denim to get vintage look. This process also needs an artist to execute it nicely to merge the tint with ground indigo color & should not look too artificial. But this process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization. Chemical action. Additional softness may be attained by using softener. Mechanical / rubbing / abrasion between garments to garments.With dry denim however such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears jeans and the activities of their daily life. Softness could be increased by the addition of softener just at the last stage of washing. used during coloration. unique look than pre distressed denim. To satisfy the consumer :As the contraction or extraction (shrinkage ) occur due to washing .  To introduce fading effect: Dyes or pigments are present in the fabric. 2.m BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES Denim washing is aesthetic finish given to denim fabric to enhance the demand and to provide strength. color tinted etc) thus creating new fashion for the new generation especially for teenagers. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate . This creates what many fell to be more natural. and 3. Dry denim as opposed to washed denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Garments to machine. 36 . the wearer can use the garments after purchase satisfactory  Advantages of garments washing: The following advantages are obtained could be gained from the garments washing—   Removal of starch or size materials make the fabric soft hands feel. Objects of garments washing:  To develop softness in garments: Size materials applied during manufacturing present in the fabric are removed which enhances soft hand feel. MALWA The changes occur due to the following actions: 1. are washed out locally or partially which result fading or worn out effects in the garments.  To create new fashion: Washing Process of garments bring different outlook (faded. impurities.e. the lighter the jeans. Like in the good old days the jeans will be washed at about 50 degrees Celsius. Some Jeans brands will even not use sanforized fabric. when the final quality inspectors at the jeans factory forget to clean the pockets. This was (again) very popular back in the 80's. During washing shrinkage may takes place.m        Dirt. marble. if accumulated in the garments during manufacturing could be removed. so that you can shrink them to fit in a hot bath. spots. 37 . MALWA Rinse (water) wash: Speaks for itself mostly. Faded or worn out effect could introduced to the garments which creates new fashion Similar outlook can be obtained by different washing techniques. It involves the application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric. Faded garment washed with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color contrast in proportion to garment washed neutral cellulose enzymes. the enzyme can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. It also creates and effect called brilliance. which are an indication of how long the jeans have been stonewashed. hems. 3. Use of cellulose making the seams. Salt paper effect is color contrast effect. High risk of color bleeding. It consists of soaking pumice stones with chlorine and using their abrasive power to bleach jeans into sharp contrasts. The effects produced by cellulose enzyme are:—1. The jeans are washed with oval or round pumice stones which should all have roughly the same format. Make certain to wash separate from other garments the first few times. Post treatment includes final ringing and softening cycle. During the washing process these stones will scrap off a thin layer of the denim does showing some of the white threads from the part of the cloth where the indigo dyeing stuff was not able to penetrate. Ergo: The longer the wash. Garment load size of the m/c is 35-40 jeans per m/c and it cannot be overloaded. 2. you may even find some residue of these stones in the pockets of your new jeans. Washed garments could be worn directly after purchase. In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be enhanced by optical brightening. i. When the desired color is achieved. and pockets more noticeable. Also known as moon. You may also encounter words like deep stone or super stonewash. so ideal to use for brightening up your old faded jeans by washing them together. ice and fros. Stone wash: Still the most famous of all washings. The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition of water is not required. Sometimes. the cellulose.It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. Lower land space and least manpower cost are required to run a washing plant. Enzyme Wash: -It is environmentally friendly wash. therefore after washing there is no possibility to create such problem. gum etc. Comparatively lower capital is required to set up a washing plant. The pumice stones are very light with a rough surface. Acid Wash: . fog. m 38 . m 39 . m MALWA 40 . Final checking (inseam. waist Band) 7. Wash care label Attach 3. folding of per required dimension the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garment Stages of finishing department: 1. Loop cutting 2. Rebid button attach 5. Over rider 10. Duster (Remove thread) PACKING After to finishing department. Heat set 8. Mid Checking 4. garment send to packing department then first of all check the tag According to size label divide the garment according to size. each garment is normally ironed pressed to MALWA Remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness so that the garment looks nice To the customer. Form finished 6. MALWA 41 .m FINISHING DEPATMENT: After passing through the inspection table. Shadding 9. Washing inspection 11. 3 or 4 pieces of garment bundling according to Buyer and after that cartoon weight then packed the garment as buyer requirement. m DESCRIPTION 1. 4. 2. 3. Pices of garment Order No Cartoon dimension Buyer nam DESPATCH SECTION :       Ready for Inspection & shipping Random Inspection Approval for shipment Repacking open cartoon Strapped & stacked Custom approval Dispatch MALWA 42 . m MALWA 43 . Shrinkage procedure is that swatches of fabric sizes 25 by 25 centimeters are cut and sent to washing. That usually comes out to be 15% of the required rolls. Shading: Shading is also done 100%. 4. Usually quality check workings are based and according to the approved sample by the customer. knots. lose ends/picks and etc. It should be noted that these linear points are never added to grade the fabric. quantity. The value of 15 or anything less then 15.m DENIM QUALITY CONTROL Quality control is responsible for assessing the quality of the fabric and determining whether the garments produced from the fabric will be able to meet customer requirements. A system for verifying and maintaining a desired level of quality in the fabric by careful planning. So the rolls are classified according to the original shade required by the customer and the shade that is coming afterwash. continued inspection. Quality check is done in order to meet the requirements of the customer in the fabric. Families are made and a packing list shade wise is made in which amount of rolls carrying particular shade is grouped. Inspection Shading Shrinkage Width Weight Inspection of the fabric is done before wash. The fabric is graded according to the ―American fault 4 point system‖. Then these linear points are converted into 100 square meters of the fabric. meter of the fabric. 3. MALWA 44 . and corrective action as required. And according to the calculated answer the fabric is graded. means the fabric is of good quality with minimum defects and cleared. whereas the shading and shrinkage is done after wash. There are usually 4-5 quality checks done on the fabric. rather they are converted into 100sq. 3-6 inches is given 2 points. Further after wash the rolls are classified according to the shade coming in them. Meaning that all the rolls of fabric required in making of the garment are checked. 2. these defects usually occur during the weaving process of the fabric. Inspection: Inspection is usually 100%. In which a defect ranging from 1-3 inches is given 1 point. They are as follows: 1. The difference is multiplied by 4 and recorded in wrap and weft direction. After washing the swatches are again measured to see the length and width of them and the difference is noted. Shrinkage: Shrinkage is usually done on 10-15 rolls. wash and etc) to the quality control department. use of proper equipment. because it is not necessary that after wash every roll will be of the same shade. Shading depends on the original wash. 6-9 inches is given 3 points and above 9 inches it is given 4 points. 5.e. Inspection is done in other to see any visual defects on the fabric i. Quality control workings start as soon as the fabric is in-house and cutting department issues an allocation (a form carrying order#. mispick. Commercial standard for width is 63 inches.m Width: Width checking is also done 100%. Usually width checking is done during the inspection of the fabric. All rolls are quality checked for width measurement. 45 . Weight: Weight of the fabric is done by a standard GSM disc cutter. Further a comprehensive report regarding quality check is sent to departments such as marketing and commercial for the approval of fabric for cutting. m MALWA 46 . mission and core values 5. 5. 3. Quality policy 2. Work Timing Holidays Leave rules Casual level Sick leave Earned level Compensatory level rules Maternity level COMPENSATION BENEFITS 1. 7. 4. 2. 6. 5.M above Communication policy 47 .G. HR philosophy 6. Salary wages break up & disbursement Medical reimbursement Leave travel allowance Car policy for A. Manpower planning 2.R POLICY 1. Employee induction 4. 8. 3. 4. HR objective MALWA MANPOWER PLANING 1. Enviourment 3. Requirement procedure 3.m H. Employee record PERSONAL AND LEVEL RULES 1. HR vision. Health or Safety 4. 2. 8. 6.m SYSTEM MANUALS 1. 4. 7. 2. 4. Performance management system Employee reward Training. 2. 7. 3. 6. 4. Security Health safety Visitors Information checks reference BUSSINESS CODE CONDUCT 1. 3. development and learning Academic growth of employee Superiors responsibility Summer training Fitment of trainees INDUSTRY SECURITY AND SAFETY 1. Department manuals 2. 5. 9. Conflict of interest $ peer pressure Non abuse of official position Improvement through professionalism team work Confidentiality Whistle blower policy Sexual harassment policy Internet usage policy Prioritizing of task House keeping 48 . 5. 2. H R Audit MALWA PERFORMANCE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM 1. 3. m MALWA 49 . m MALWA ROLES OF MERCHANDISER In preparing sample the merchandiser places an optical and pre active role. The merchandiser is a person who has to follow all the activities which filled up sight from the manufacturing unit merchandiser should understand the specification and requirement of the buyer and produce sample by considering 1. Co-ordination Shipment 9. Sampling/Sampling Co-ordination Costing Order finalization Arranging raw materials Getting approval from Buyer Co-ordination manufacturing (detail to production department)&then follow ups for correct quality In the time of shipments. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of product development and coordination with buyer. the garment style that meet buyer‘s expectations in regard to delivery. 7. overseas communication etc. merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paperwork and follow up. 4. Communication The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the sample to be developed in case of non conformities in the sample developed revised sample may be sending for approval purpose it is duty of merchandiser to dispatch the developed sample on the time to the concerned buyers. 6. 3. 50 . 2. 5. quality and price point. coordinating inspection 8. In an export house. detailing with buyers. m 51 . m 52 . m TO THE MANAGING DIRECTOR MALWA INDUSTRY LTD. Most respectfully I have to say that I ARBIND MODI from NORTHERN INDIA INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (Govt. of Punjab) have joined this industry. THANKS ARBIND MODI NIIFT (LDH) FD-2009-2012 53 . From 08th June to 20 July 2011 for Industry internship I have understood and now I am ready to jump in the industry would but before joining the industry it is required give my final show in my college but due to some financial problem it is difficult to achieve my goal. Sub: . So I ―there for‖ request to sir that please grant me this permission for this I will be your libel whole life. 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