THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO THE PERFECT BREAK2013/14 Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/14 www.timeout.com/accra ACCRA FOR SPECIAL 5th EDITION VISITORS and the best of Ghana S p e ci a l 5 t h E ditio n THE TOP ISBN 9781905042845 Restaurants | Bars | Shops | Hotels 9 781905 042845 67 Highlife legend Gyedu-Blay Ambolley at +233 Contents Features Out and about 7 City Beat 25 Sightseeing 60 Arts & Film 71 Hotels News and views Accra’s unmissable The best of It’s an exciting year sights and museums Ghanaian art for hotels in Accra – 10 Calendar see where to stay Our pick of Ghana’s events 33 Bars, Pubs and 64 Children 11 Weekend fun Clubs How to keep the kids 77 Trips Out of The perfect 48 hours Where to join Accra’s amused... and cool Town non-stop party Cape Coast, Elmina, 15 Photography 66 Music Kakum National Park, Focus on Africa 39 Restaurants Where to hear the Lake Volta and more Eat up some of Africa’s soundtrack of Accra 18 Food fight finest cuisine 85 Directory Accra’s best dishes 68 Sport 85 Getting Around 49 Shopping Follow boxing, football 86 Resources 22 Benin & Togo Hunt down the best of and polo or make a 87 Emergencies Take a road trip east Ghanaian design splash in the pool 88 Central Accra map Published under the authority of and in Maps Luis Benitez, www.e-cartografia.com Anita Ibru 22-23, White House 27, Shutterstock collaboration with Time Out Group Ltd London UK. Marketing Director Michel Kouassigan cover, 11, 18-19, 25, 30. The name and logo of Time Out Group Ltd, Administration and distribution Printers Wyndeham Grange, (01273 592 244) 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB. The Sloane Company While every effort and care has been made to Published by The Sloane Company UK +44 (0) 20 7813 3000 Time Out Group ensure the accuracy of the information contained Directors Marcel Kouassigan, www.timeout.com Chairman/Founder Tony Elliott in this publication, the publisher cannot accept Michel Kouassigan International Managing Director Cathy Runciman responsibility for any errors it may contain. All Editorial International Editor Chris Bourn rights reserved. No part of this publication may PO Box AN 10060 Editor Daniel Neilson International Art Director Anthony Huggins be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, Accra-North, Ghana Deputy editor Ben Lerwill International Consultant Will Salmon or transmitted in any form or by any means, Tel: + 233 244 090 351/2 Contributors Ruth-Ellen Davis, Cat Scully and all Contributors & photography electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or Fax: +233 302 970155 the contributors to previous editions Daniel Neilson, except: establishments own 9, otherwise, without prior permission of Time Out. www.timeout.com/accra Design 33-35, 41, 49, 50, 54, 72; page 8 (illustration by © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013
[email protected] Art Director johnoakeydesign.co.uk Amy Blackwell, lower photograph David Severn), ISBN 9781905042845 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 5 City Beat Soul music Ghanaian musicians are becoming recognised across the world thanks to innovative musicians such as Jahwi and enthusiasts inspired by Accra’s beats. Ben Lerwill investigates The homegrown talent... Jahwi’s paintings have been The two 22-year olds behind the the music is just so ingrained in “Each song sort of breathed itself exhibited everywhere from South project, Gabriel Benn (aka Tuesday people’s blood, in their everyday into being,” says Jahwi, the Accra Africa to Australia, and given the Born) and Ollie Smith (aka Ollie lives. Ghana is somewhere musician whose debut full-length right exposure his album has the Twist), have so far released two EPs we love.” album, Ancient Soul Cries, gives as potential to reach a similarly wide under The Busy Twist name, with Friday Night EP is out now on clear a picture as any of the kind of international audience. At a time an album set to emerge soon. Soundway Records inventive underground music when so much street-level music They’ve collaborated with currently coming out of the city. Its seems throwaway, Ancient Soul various Ghanaian musicians. So how blend of laid-back beats, Ghanaian Cries has a more mature sound than did two young Brits, childhood Five more to patois, firebrand subject matter and most. “It sounds dark sometimes,” friends in London from the age of layered instrumentation draws on a he says, “but its main objective 10, come to be working with the know about mix of different genres – from rock is healing.” locals in West Africa? and reggae to afrobeat and hip-hop Ancient Soul Cries is out now on “I had a placement teaching R2Bees – and touches on everything from Maddrenegade Music English in Ghana a few years The duo won the main prizes at the war to sex. Jahwi himself, also a ago and met so many talented 2013 Vodafone Ghana Music Awards photographer, poet and painter, has ...and the London boys musicians,” explains Gabriel. Fuse ODG been a well known name on the local inspired by “When I got back A British hip-hop artist of Ghanaian cultural scene for years. Tellingly, he Ghana’s beat It sounds home, I persuaded Ollie descent who has collaborated with draws his song-writing influences At time of writing, the dark, but we should go out to Wyclef Jean from a whole host of sources. “My first encounters with music were video for Friday Night – a high-tempo tune by its main record them. We formed such a tight M.anifest A rapper of real pedigree with a CV hundreds of vinyl records that my London producers The objective is unit with the musicians that includes work with Damon father had collected over his travels. I Busy Twist – has healing out there that we Albarn and Erykah Badu began DJing his parties from the age clocked up close to realised there was Kaakie of six – it was a disco and funk era, 40,000 views on YouTube. It’s not really something in it. The Busy A female dancehall-reggae singer but some of the most influential hard to see why it’s popular. The Twist was born from there. We’ve from Accra, named Ghana’s best new forces in my music are people like music merges Ghana’s tropical hustle been going back and forth from artiste in 2013 Fela Kuti, Nina Simone, Sizzla with flavours of the UK bass scene, Ghana for the last three years.” Sarkodie Kalonji and Bob Marley. I could sing while the video itself, shot in Accra, And what is it about the sound of A rapper hailing from the coastal Redemption Song before I could captures the shuffling, goodtime vibe Ghana that inspires them? “It’s the town of Tema, nominated for a speak English.” of the capital in the sun. energy, the vibrancy, the way that MOBO award in 2012. Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 7 Surf’s up Reading up in Ghana Ghanaian Edmund Kugbila now playing for Carolina Panthers Cat Scully investigates the ever-growing literary What better place to movement in the West African country learn to surf than along the laid-back C arving its way out of the ‘West African literature’ hold all category and emerging as a genre west coast of Ghana in its own right, Ghanaian fiction has received due credit in recent British national Brett Davies (aka years with young authors taking Mr Brights) has devoted his life to the reigns from the likes of Kofi surfing. After leaving a top rung job Awoonor (This Earth, My Brother, at the head office of Rip Curl 1971), Ama Ata Aidoo (Our Sister several years ago, he decided to Killjoy, 1977) and Ayi Kwei Armah take the plunge and open up his (The Healers, 1979). Ghana’s new own surf school in Ghana (the generation of writers includes second love of his life). As a poets, successful bloggers, formally trained surf coach and authors of young adult fiction, lifeguard, it means surfers can’t crime fiction and strong be in better hands to try out contenders on ‘recommended new Taiye Selasi Ghana’s exhilarating waves. novelist’ tables in bookstores Beginners to advanced are across the globe. welcome, as are children, with Probably this year’s most from her writing that Ghana is a boards and equipment naturally talked about novel of this realm is key source of inspiration. Take for provided. The school has been so Ghana Must Go, by Taiye Selasi. It instance her poem ‘Orange Juice’ successful since its inception last leaves readers with plenty to chew which describes a person’s dying year that Mr Brights is opening a on, with its unusual narrative style wish to enjoy the taste of fresh second school in Accra at and complex characters. The orange juice “from oranges that Kokorobite. Bookings are taken via intelligent Ms Selasi has certainly are yellow/Not orange, Oranges the website with prices on enquiry. stepped into the literary world with from the forests of Ghana/Grown Kangaroo Pouch Beach Resort, a grand entrance (her fan base wild in cool shade/And careless Busua Beach includes Toni Morrison and beauty’.” (www.mrbrights.com). Salman Rushdie). The story Making waves in young adult Surf lesson at Mr Brights Open everyday 6am to 6pm. revolves around a Boston family of fiction is Sophia Acheampong, six – the mother Nigerian, the whose Growing Yams in London Casket culture father Ghanaian – whose mixed up lives repel and retract like a rubber band. (2006) depicts a 14-year-old Ghanaian girl, Makeeda, who tries to One of Ghana’s best coffin makers is now the subject of new film after a residency in the UK It’s not just football... Accra is referred to more as a backdrop to the balance her Ghanaian upbringing and family T hese days, the world knows where to come for a designer Midgley, who became aware that Paa Joe had been forced out of Unsurprisingly, this is a sentiment echoed by 25-year-old Ghana on film Ghana’s showing at the 2010 FIFA World Cup – not storyline, however it is obvious the city and Ghana are familiar expectations with typical teenage London life. The story is funny and very death-casket. Fantasy coffins have his Accra workshop to a roadside Jacob, who breaks off from to mention the continuing success of big names such become one of Ghana’s most shack 90 minutes out of the city, creating a guitar-shaped coffin Football Fables territory for Selasi with readable for young readers talked-about exports, featuring in due to a lack of funds. “To me he (“it’s for a collector in California”) An award-winning documentary as Michael Essien and Kevin-Prince Boateng – mean descriptions such as and their parents. international exhibitions, being seemed like a fallen giant,” to share his thoughts with Time about young Ghanaians looking Ghana now has international renown as a football na- “lush Ghana, soft Ghanaian literature written about in glossy magazines Benjamin tells Time Out Accra. Out Accra. “The dream is that to break into the international tion. But away from the soccer pitch, the country has Ghana, verdant Ghana, seems to be having a and being cooed over by the “Here was this pioneer, someone we’ll be able to move back soccer circuit. plenty more sporting talent. These are some of the where fragile things die” and “the revival moment, with young culturally curious. But the riotously who had been making fantasy home to Accra and earn a better The Sakawa Boys smell of Ghana, a contradiction, a authors rivalling their forefathers colourful creations, coffins for 50 years, living,” he says. “The key agenda Documenting the local bands of biggest names. cracked clay pot: the smell of and mothers of the 1970s. which can take the who had been visited for coming to England was to internet fraudsters who combine dryness, wetness, both, the damp Today’s strong army of writers form of anything from by US presidents, but find sponsors and people who phishing emails with witchcraft. American Football: 6ft 4in Edmund Kugbila (pictured) is now an NFL of earth and dry of dust.” Selasi means the country is getting Nike trainers to mobile who had fallen on hard might donate. Now, we’re just Coz ov Moni player, having been selected at the 2013 draft by the Carolina Panthers. enjoys flitting between hot, slower recognition from around the world phones, represent far times. He gets hoping.” A story with a happy A ‘pidgin musical’ tracing a He was born, and grew up, in Ghana. paced Accra and crisp, snow and encouraging more young more than just minimal passing trade culmination in sight? It’s fictional but entertaining day in the Athletics: Long jumper Ignisious Gaisah is a former Commonwealth covered Boston to contrast writers to put ideas onto paper. whimsical woodwork, in his current location. reassuring to think so. life of Accra hiplife stars M3nsa Games gold medallist and all-African champion – he also featured at the characters old and new/ past and Annual literary festivals such as with each piece taking I visited Ghana in http://paajoe.artdocs.co.uk and Wanlov the Kubolor. London Olympics. present / child and adult. the Ghana Association of Writers up to six weeks to 2011 and we came up Boxing: Accra-born flyweight boxer Duke Micah continued Ghana’s Another writer to look out for is Book Festival) grow every year. make and requiring with the idea of Paa Joe & The Lion finale boxing heritage with a strong showing at London 2012. He is Mamle Kabu (aka Martina This year’s Yari Yari symposium expert craftsmanship. organising a residency nicknamed ‘Mayweather’. Odonkor), whose poetry and short (The Organisation of Women Overseas interest in in the UK for Paa Joe Paralympics: Wheelchair athlete Anita Fordjour was another to star at stories have won her several Writers of Africa) was held in Accra the coffins has as a way of raising London 2012, having previously medalled at the Commonwealth and prestigious literary awards, and featured female authors resulted in increased awareness.” All-Africa Games. including the Burt Award for including playwrites and poets exposure for Accra’s It was only Joe’s Swimming: Young swimmer Kweku Addo made history in early 2013 African Literature in 2009. Born including Sapphire, Dorothea leading coffin sculptors, in second trip outside of Ghana, and when he broke the national 50m freestyle record at the age of just 16. and raised in Ghana, it is apparent Smartt and Janet Badjan-Young. 97 particular 66-year-old Paa Joe, who his son Jacob’s first. Benjamin Ghana in numbers 2nd together with son Jacob was documented their stay and will invited over to the UK in mid-2013 release a feature-length year when Ghana number of to take up a month-long artists’ documentary film, Paa Joe & The became independent government 25 1957 residency at a stately home open Lion, in 2014. “Joe’s art is numbers in sponsored to the public in Nottinghamshire. unusual in that the majority ends millions of languages in position of Ghana in 9 Working together, father and son up under the ground, so he wants Ghana’s Ghana world cocoa production used the time to carve and something to be remembered by,” population 2 construct a full-size example of Benjamin continues. “But above (2011) percentage of energy their trademark lion coffin. all, he wants to leave a legacy for number of 238,533 Ghana gets from seasons in But there was more to the his family. The ideal situation is damming Lake Volta, total area of Ghana in Ghana: wet project than simple creativity. The that the final scene of the the largest reservoir square kilometres, slightly (Apr-Nov) and man behind their trip to England documentary will be Joe’s move in the world smaller than the UK dry (Dec-Mar) was British filmmaker Benjamin back to his workshop in Accra.” 8 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 9 Music events at the Alliance Francaise painting, stencil work, side walk painting, chalk art and vast murals. Past events have also featured large art installations and photography displays, as well as Dates for live music, DJ sets and theatre and spoken word performances. your diary August Asafotu-Fiam Festival Celebrated by the people of Ada in Greater Accra, this festival commemorates the warrior. Victorious and fallen are remembered with re-enactments and traditional costume. September Accra International Marathon The Accra International Marathon attracts hundreds of spectators and participants to its course that runs from the beach town of Prampram, through Tema – a port city east of the capital – and on to A year in Ghana the baked sands of Labadi Beach in Accra. The marathon supports the Longevity Project – an initiative dedicated to increasing the life Sporting events, traditional celebrations and creative festivals pepper expectancy of Ghanaians. Ghana’s social calendar Fetu Afahye Festival On the first Saturday in offers a colourful pageant of southern coastal side between September, the communities in January gong-gong drummers and dancers. Accra and Cape Coast. The the Cape Coast area converge festival takes place on the first with processions of chiefs and Bugum Chugu (Fire) Festival Saturday in May. warriors strutting in their finest The Fire Festival coincides with the April gear. The costumes and finery lunar calendar and commemorates witnessed at this festival are prince Naiyul-Lah Mohammed’s Ghana Music Awards June dazzling. For anyone interested exile in AD658. It is an Islamic The highlight of the Ghanaian in dress and show, this festival tradition that has grown into a music industry’s year is this heady Environmental Film is a must. night procession of lighted event showcasing the country’s Festival of Ghana torches, drumming and dancing. most popular talent. 2013 saw the Run by a non-profit organisation, awards’ most lavish night to date, this internationally acclaimed October Indian Film Festival complete with red carpet, strobe festival aims to educate the public The Indian High Commission lighting and a packed line up of about our troubled environment. Ghana Fashion and Design Week brings a bit of Bollywood glamour live performances. Nominees are Though the focus is the As Ghanaian designers become to Accra for a few days each year. shortlisted from the year’s environment, but it’s not ever more prominent on Known for their vivid costumes, releases of hiplife, hip-hop, all doom and gloom. the international stage, cheesy love plots, song and reggae, gospel and Afro-pop. Films screened are this week of dance, Bollywood movies may not Recent big winners were R2BEES. selected to suit catwalks, models be the best cliff hangers, but they www.ghanamusicawards.com both a young and frantic buying, sure are fun. Subtitles will help audience and old, is the showcase those not fluent in Hindi and Ghana Paragliding Festival as well as for new talent. children are more than welcome. Easter weekend sees a football encourage There are dozens Held at the Silverbird Cinema. field in Accra fill with musicians, filmmaking. of events www.indiahc-ghana.com media crews and scores of Genres include throughout the festively-clad spectators as animation, week, including aspiring paragliders take to the documentary and forums, talks, and February Accra Polo Club skies. In less than a decade, the drama. The festival is of course, shows. Ghana Paragliding Festival has one week long with film www.facebook.com/ Dzawuwu Festival become very popular. It also works screenings in various venues Ghanafashionweek Agave people’s thanksgiving closely with the Couldbase including open air. The 2013 title festival. Chiefs and tribesmen of Foundation which is an NGO was ‘Health and the Environment’. the Volta region also pay homage working for children in West Africa. For more information and contact December to their fallen ancestors and It takes place in Nkawkaw on the details see www.effaccra.org. It’s praise present leaders. Kumasi-Accra road. usually held around the end of Accra Polo Open www.ghanaparagliding.com June and beginning of July. Taking place at the Accra Polo Club, this annual event attracts March teams from around the world. May July Previous competitors have come Damba Festival from New Zealand, Colombia, This festival originates from Aboakyer (Deer Hunt) Festival Chale Wote Street Art Festival Egypt and Argentina. There are Islamic tradition to mark the birth One of the highlights of Ghana’s Artists take to Jamestown’s other events throughout the year. of the prophet Mohammed. festival calendar, Aboakyer is held streets for this vibrant alfresco art Check out its Facebook page Celebrated around Tamale and in the township of Winneba on the festival that spans acrylic street for details. 10 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 w n, b ut it pa ys to know y to Accra is a part is. So to save you valuable on where the acti me, Time Out Accra has y. partying ti e c t w ee ke nd in the cit r perf timetabled you atch sports, relax, eat and You’ll shop, w ance to live music and the d drink well, and st DJs. It’s 9am on Saturday country’s hotte a cab, buckle up for a roller- . morning – hail ugh the Black Star of Africa ro coaster ride th s Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 11 T IME OUT HE a Accr T SATURDAY 1pm EST. 2008 SUNDAY The best ND ER weekend escapes KE P FEC T WEE Traditional meal in Buka You may not be that hungry, but Ghana does From a blast of dock-side action along 9am food very well – there’s a lot to sample. Order a lunch of tilapia and banku at Buka (see p40). A gorgeously grilled fish and a starchy, gooey 10am the coast, to a dizzying tree-top walkway above a national park, Time Out Accra Breakfast, swim, massage Coffee and pastry at Café dez Amis presents the best ideas for a great You’re going to need to be fortified for banku, made from pounded cassava, to sup up weekend out of the capital the hot sauce, is delicious. It is an authentic Feeling OK? Let’s start the morning off this weekend, so we suggest a relaxing, gently with a coffee and croissant in the and filling, start to proceedings. The Ghanaian culinary experience, but go easy on the red sauce: it’ll blow your tongue right out of leafy surrounds of Café dez Amis. When Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel has the it gets a bit warm, hop in a taxi to... Colour and culture in best, and biggest, buffet in Accra. Smoked your mouth. Cape Coast and Elmina salmon, pastrami, fresh croissants, Elmina, we’re full English, eggs cooked to your liking, 11am reasonably confident endless coffee – oh and some healthy in saying, must be one stuff too – make this is the breakfast of kings. 3pm A swim at La Palm Royal Beach Hotel of the most colourful places in Ghana. Once you’ve eaten, Take in a bit of culture at the Everything about this roll out the door Artists Alliance Gallery This is a great pool for town revolves around and spend a couple The best place to find an overview of Ghanaian mindlessly swimming in fishing and most of the town comes out of hours dozing and art right now is the Artists Alliance. It’s a vast circles and cooling down. twice a day to see off the fishermen and dipping in what’s also the city’s undertaking by Ablade Glover, Ghana’s most well known painter, in a vast building full of the Alternate with reading those weekly news magazines you only buy on holiday and 1pm sailors and greet them again as they return with their load. Brightly painted boats, loveliest pool. finest art, all for sale. You’ll find large colourful Tuck into a traditional everyone wearing football shirts, the flip- And if it couldn’t depictions of market life, and of Ghana’s rich jumping into the deep end of buffet at Holiday Inn flopping catch being sold on the dockside: get any better, fishing trade. It’s also a good place to see the pool. Drinks and nibbles Here’s your chance to try all it’s an overwhelming sight. follow our some older art, as well as the fantasy coffins will be brought to your sun of Ghana’s culinary delights example and (see p8). Everything is for sale. See p61. lounger. If you fancy a wander, in one go. The Holiday Inn’s By the beach at head to nearby Labadi Beach Sunday lunch is a vast 4pm get a massage Big Milly’s too. Bliss. to watch Ghana in Sunday affair, with many traditional An hour or so out of mode (football, Star beer, and dishes. We’d recommend Learn about Nkrumah Accra is Kokrobite. football). the goat soup, groundnut Pay attention, you’ll be quizzed. To see how national heroes are built, stop This small beach soup and, well, anything. town has become off at the mausoleum of Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president and one of its founding fathers. Across the five acres of land are a museum, statues, a destination for T IME OUT manicured gardens and, of course, the mausoleum itself. Look out for HE sun-lovers and a Accr T pleasure-seekers. Independence Square here too. See p27. 3pm EST. 2008 The long-established Big Milly’s (see p80) has become something of a backpackers ND 9pm Cheer on the ER KE P FEC T WEE classic – a laid-back hostel with an open Hearts of Oak bar. Nearby is Bah’doosh (see p80), an All together now: Australian-owned bar and restaurant Splurge at Santoku, Accra’s finest restaurant “Arose, arose, arose. Be quiet 5pm This restaurant and bar was recently opened in the Villaggio complex in Airport Residential and don’t be silly. We are the famous Hearts of Oak! We never where there always seems to be someone strumming a guitar. Get a party frock and is, by some way, the best restaurant in say die!” Get practising what may That’s enough culture. Time to Ghana. Think Nobu and you are there – in fact Flora and fauna be the world’s quaintest football at Kakum think about tonight. The world, it some ex-Nobu staff had a hand in it. Mixologists song for a game at the Ohene seems, is raving about Ghana’s will knock you up a Tsuyayaki (Zacapa and Kakum National Park Djan Stadium. Football, as you’ll is a hugely popular fashion scene. Updates on African sake with cardamom, shiso leaves and lemon have noticed, is huge in Accra. prints and Ghanaian Kente cloth grass syrup), before digging into effortlessly day trip from Accra. A The Hearts of Oak is the biggest short walk up from the are brightening the catwalks elegant dishes such as crispy oysters with team in the city, and when they from London to New York. Two of creamy wasabi, black cod with den miso or, the visitors’ centre and are playing their arch-rivals from you start embarking the best places to pick up prints signature dish, pan fried scallops with foie gras Kumasi, Asante Kotoko, the and fabrics are in Woodin (see and orange tobiko. on a series of noise from the stadium can be vertiginous walkways p53) and Vlisco (see p53), handily heard far away. opposite each other in Accra Mall. However, don’t suspended high in the canopy. It offers a forget to stop off at Renée Q (see p52) – it’s fabulous view of the park, and a bit of an on the way – for some fabulously lively clothes. Luxury women’s clothing with a vibrant African 11pm adrenalin rush to boot – not bad for a short day out a couple of hours from Accra. twist is the mainstay of international success Christie Brown (see p52), a rapidly expanding 8pm See live highlife at +233 This is the only place in Bojo Beach fashion label by designer Aisha Obuobi. And for Dinner at Nicolinos Accra where you are pretty First-time visitors accessories, no question: Tebazile (see p53) The best pizza in much guaranteed to see pulling up to Bojo – Cameron Diaz seems to agree. Accra: a toss up brilliant live music, often Beach’s powdery between Mamma highlife. The party ethos is sands are often taken Mia, Bella Roma and strong at this club. It’s a aback that this easily Nicolinos. What gives cleverly designed venue accessed beach, just Midnight the edge to Nicolinos (see p44), at the with an inside stage that you can see and 25 minutes’ drive from the frantically beating Mix it up at the Lexington It’s cocktail hour. And that means 2am Alliance Francaise, is its setting in a breezy hear from the outdoor patio. Grab a large and dusty heart of Accra, feels more like a remote stretch of the Caribbean. The Lexington. Sure, they mix a Flirt around Accra’s hottest spot spot outside. The pizza Star beer, order half a After paying a small entrance fee, perfect martini or cosmopolitan, On a dusty side street off Oxford Street in Osu is is fired in a bespoke dozen delicious meaty beachgoers hop into little boats that glide but tonight is about fun so order Accra’s liveliest night haunt: Republic (see p36). It’ll oven and the Italian head kebabs, hear some of across a small and flat stretch of water to their Tea Pot Punch – a rum punch be heaving by now, spilling across the street and chef keeps an eye on Ghana’s best music – Bojo’s gleaming strip of sugar-white sand. for four, served in a tea pot with beyond. Two DJs will have a spin-off on the outside proceedings. It should be join the party. Thatched umbrellas stud the shoreline, cups and saucers. There’ll be a veranda, while beautiful people flirt, drink, dance and said that the service is looking out over the area’s characteristically live band or DJ on the decks. It’s party into the night. Grab a cocktail made from local excellent. crashing waves. about to get lively. palm wine and some cassava chips. 12 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 13 Focus on Africa I t is widely assumed that at least on the surface, become Above Across Ghana at the moment there are Mama Walet Mohamed photojournalism is dead in the water. indistinguishable from fine art practices. (21), who is expecting her some stunning representations of the best The heyday has passed, the great However, some differences still do fourth child, waits at the of these qualities, proving the discipline is magazines and supporters of the remain. While fine art photography is Medecins Sans Frontieres truly alive and kicking. (MSF) health centre at the genre are either long gone or are too visually similar, it is conceptually different. Mbera camp for Malian swayed by slick advertising to take on hard news stories. On top of that, screen grabs and man-in-the-street smartphone Photojournalism must always tread a fine line with the exploitation of its subject. (Some practitioners have even been refugees in Mauritania on 3 March 2013. By Nyani Quarmyne Nyani Quarmyne pictures have taken over more of the space accused of deliberately trying to beautify Left Nyani Quarmyne is a great example of the typically allocated to stills photography. suffering). Photojournalists also have to A man in a food distribution talent that exists in Ghana. Even the But look a bit harder and it’s quickly balance a neutral, witnessing eye with an queue at the M’Berra briefest glance across his work quickly refugee camp for Malian apparent that far from being dead, the empathetic viewpoint towards their refugees in Mauritania on tells you that you’re looking at something genre is still producing world class images. subjects. The best photojournalists allow 1 March 2013. By Nyani quite special. Quarmyne has worked for a To paraphrase Mark Twain, reports of its their humanity to shine through – a fact Quarmyne string of international clients, from the demise have been greatly exaggerated. often absent from coldly presented, Bottom right Guardian and the New York Times to Not only is its practice continuing but its intellectually aloof and deliberately trendy Ghanaian sunset by Nii UNICEF and Save the Children, and his punchy aesthetic has jumped out of the works in galleries. In nearly every sense of Obodai work has covered hard-hitting stories. magazine page and onto the gallery wall. the word, photojournalism is not cool: it is Quarmyne has a distinctly multi-cultural In the past ten years, photojournalism has, impassioned, engaged and empirical. background and, having lived in four continents, regards himself as somewhat of a ‘rootless’ individual. One permanent, however, has always been his deep belief in the importance of human relationships. He prides himself on his humane approach to his work and, as he puts it, recognises “the sameness in all of us”. “I met a guy on a plane once whose business card simply had his name followed by the words ‘Human Being’… That works for me!” This sense of humanity is immediately evident in both the nature of the projects he has undertaken and the individual images within them. Quarmyne says: “It is Three photographers with very different styles are hard sometimes… when you’re intruding on a painful or private moment. You can’t documenting Africa in the 21st century. Art historian and help but think ‘How would I feel about photographer Adam Monaghan talks to the auteurs someone sticking a camera in my face?’ But you have to weigh up your intrusion against what you’re trying to achieve.” This achievement is, of course, to make s 14 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 15 people outside of a situation connect with the rest is the connection.” Obodai uses Above Emmanuel s what is happening in front of his lens. photography to focus his thoughts, but the Portraits by Emmanuel Bobbie He is unapologetic about his making strong, ‘artful’ images of distressing situations and cleverly cites the peculiarity resulting questions are often more pertinent than the answers. When we reach the point of being receptive to an Below A 6X6 Duotone picture by Bobbie Nii Obodai of following such an illogical stance to its answer, we have already accepted it. Emmanuel Bobbie’s photographs conclusion: “Should I only take good Like many before him, immediately grab you with their sense of photos in happy situations and bad Obodai sees no issue with striving life and action. They have a positive and ones in unhappy situations?” to create beautiful things even celebratory energy, even when showing To take, for example, his series while making critical images. harsh subjects. He benefits from his ability focusing on mental health “In a recent project I to capture a diverse range of styles that in Ghana. In their subject matter, these photos are The best documented the demolition of a slum work well in allowing his pictures to appear historic in one glance and entirely daunting reminders of photos community in Accra. modern in the next. both our human frailty and society’s often allow “When one of my friends saw the images he Although Bobbie views his work as fitting more strongly within a fine art pragmatic if none too humanity expressed his frustration context such as galleries, coffee table sensitive treatment of those who suffer mental to shine at how they look beautiful… Indeed there books and high quality prints, his work is not self-consciously trendy like much fine disorders. Artistically, these works are almost through was an aspect of beauty to the recorded sequence art photography. It carries the best elements of photojournalism while painterly in their perfect of events and when I first maintaining a sense of timelessness lighting and subtle hues. Their beauty showed the work at a climate change that means it would sit happily in draws you in and once caught you are forum it had a very strong response…. any gallery. compelled to see what these pictures But maybe that’s what beauty does; it Bobbie acknowledges a quite diverse have to say. allows us to be affected in such a way that range of people who have inspired him in Quarmyne says he is not keen on labels we naturally become engaged with the his journey into photography. Some, like and categorising his work since, quite communication without being superficial.” Cartier-Bresson and Yousuf Karsh, hark rightly, images can appear in so many back to classic black-and-white contexts and can be seen by so many photography. But more recent influences, different people. He admits though that the such as Tim Tadder and Dean Bradshaw, world of professional photography is indicate more contemporary, promotional changing and adaptability and openness photographic ideas. Strangely, these are one of the keys to success. polemic influences are actually strongly linked; defined lighting, strong Nii Obodai compositions and powerful representations of a person’s character. They are all, in their own Nii Obodai’s work is another strong way, perfect examples of Bobbie’s example of Ghanaian documentary biggest passion: portraiture. “There photography and unlike many is a way I can sometimes see a photographers working today, Obodai still person’s character in their face and uses 35mm film with a combination of sculpt their faces with either natural classic Leica lenses and Voigtlander bodies. or artificial lighting.” Obodai has an admirable attitude to his In his series The Working Classes, work, neither becoming deluded by the Bobbie also shows a great sense of grandeur of the art world nor limiting the story-telling and strong opportunities that making photographs compositional awareness. gives him. “Photography has helped me These are pictures that are find myself. And I learned that it’s not the comfortably at home with the history photograph itself that creates joy, but the of classic photojournalism and could people, the land, the moment… proudly hold their own in any such photography is only part of the journey; overview of the genre. 16 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Food fight How to start an argument in Ghana? Ask which restaurant serves the best jollof rice (we’ll exclude ‘mum’ from any discussions). Now, Time Out Accra offers the definitive answers (of sorts) as we munch Winn and er:drink Bukaour way through Withe nnecity’s r: NICbest OLIeateries. NO’s (JUST) Winner: Buka Buka vs Country Kitchen Nicolino’s vs Katawodieso vs Asanka vs Jol l of Jollof rice is the classic Bella Roma WinnAuntie Y E er: NICOLINO’s (JUST) TILAPIA W Orangery RICE Ghanaian dish. The rice is cooked in PIZZA A newcomer is here. For a good while, the pizza WA A K Muni’s in You’ll neseer: KFC & BANKU tilapia and banku always a spicy sauce, debate was between Everyone in Accra on the menu – lending it a fragrant long-timers Mamma Mia has an opinion which it’s a wonderful dish. and piquant flavour. (see p41) and Bella Roma of these venerable Banku is a sticky bulbous Not all jollof rice is equal, (see p40), but now Nicolino’s traditional road-side ball of steamed corn dough however. Some will knock your taste buds for six while others will have a Country Kitchen (see p44) is on the scene at Alliance Francaise, flush with a wood-fired oven and an Italian chef Nicolino’s Winner: KFC eateries serves the best food. TOA’s taxi driver almost refused to take me Winner: CLUB to be ripped and dipped into the main dish. It’s most commonly served with grilled tilapia, great depth of flavour. It’s also important to with Michelin-star pedigree. We’re fans of both really Winner: Buka to Auntie Muni’s (see p44). Waakye is Katawodieso an incredibly tasty river fish of the region, Asanka take into account the chicken, pepper sauce – they are quite different offerings. Bella Roma’s the key dish at both: an ungainly mélange and alongside a super spicy sauce. When and the salad it comes with. The jollof rice at has a thin, but pleasantly chewy, base, of dark black-eyed beans and rice, with meat you walk out of a restaurant with your lips Country Kitchen (see p40) is a more refined good quality toppings – it wins on tomato and some fish, usually eel. The hub of the still softly stinging from spices, you know assemblage, with succulent chicken and sauce – and is pleasingly rustic. Not all waakye assemblage is shitor, a peppery you’ve been banku’d. Orangery’s (see decent rice. Buka’s (see p40) may look as of Nicolino’s topping options work, but Winner: CLUB condiment made of chilli, dried shrimp p45) dish (pictured here with kenkey) though it’s thrown on a plate, but the rice has Winner: Buka the pizza, blasted in the hot oven arrives Winner: NICOLINO’s and ginger. And, my taxi driver was right. (JUST) Winner: KATAWODIESO offers well-grilled fish, but its Asanka’s a deeper flavour, the blackened chicken brings crisped, slightly blackened and full of Katawodieso’s (see p44) tastes fresher, (see p44) offering that beats all in Accra out the taste of the skin and the fiery sauce Buka flavour. It just pips it on this. Bella Roma service is friendlier, and waakye is served for taste, size and all-round tastiness. Auntie Muni’s Orangery will knock your socks off. everyday (only weekends at Auntie Muni’s). Winner: Buka Winner: NICOLINO’s (JUST) Winner: KATAWODIESO Winner: ASANKA Winner: KFC WinKFC ner :N ’s ICOLINORepublic WFrankie’s vsANKA vs Chicken Star Winvs ner: KFC inner: AS It’s Wina knock r: ARLECCHout! (JUST) Club W inner : ArlecchinoCLUB ne INO FRIED The fight of the fried W in aner: Buka ben ICE CHICKEN chicken, the dual of the drumsticks, the war of BEER You’ll expert too C RE A M Time for dessert. And on a hot day, that has to Frankie’s More clear winners from Accra’s the wings (you get the before long in be ice cream. These two food scene idea). Everyone has an this battle of Osu favourites have been Winner: KFC opinion. Fried chicken is Winner: CLUB the beers. Both Winner: ARLECCHINO going head-to-head since Best brunch huge in Ghana. When the ghost of Harland (Colonel) Sanders arrived are hugely popular Winner: NICOLINO’s and both seem the greatest thing in Winner: KATAWODIESO Arlecchino Gelateria Italiana (see p40) arrived on Oxford Street some Mövenpick. An expansive smorgasbord of local and international treats. Winner: Buka in Accra, there were queues down the the world when served ice cold by (JUST) year’s ago. Frankie’s was the place to go. street. Chicken Republic (see p43) quaked a pool on a scorching day. They are Although the new sheen has been lost Best burger in its erstwhile dominant position. In some also usually served in large bottles from Arlecchino (there were less flavours The Lexington. The dish of three little sliders with succulent patties in Winner: CLUB ways it’s an unfair fight. The world’s second (to share right?!). Star is probably and slow service on our last visit), the homemade buns is something to behold. largest restaurant chain versus a local upstart, but it’s a technical knockout for Winner: KATAWODIESO the nearest to Budweiser and the sweeter American offerings and ice cream is simply better. Frankie’s Winner: ASANKA (see p41) is sweet and cloying, with Best buffet Winner: NICOLINO’s KFC (see p43). Chicken Republic’s may (JUST) Winner: KFC rightly popular for that, but for TOA, not the greatest tasting flavourings, whereas Arlecchino Holiday Inn on Sunday lunch. A vast selection of local cuisine. come with jollof rice, but KFC’s coating Club’s slightly hoppier offering is a Arlecchino’s was fresh and interesting – they is crispier, a more flavoursome bled and, crisper and more balanced drink. just need to get back on the pulse. Best dish ahem, toilets cleaner. Santoku. Crispy oysters with creamy wasabi and wasabi tobiko – what’s not to get excited about? Winner: KATAWODIESO Winner: ASANKA Winner: CLUB Winner: ARLECCHINO Best espresso Winner: KFC Nicolino’s. French front of house, Italian chef. No brainer. 18 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 19 Winner: ASANKA Winner: ARLECCHINO Francophone The beach at Casa del Papa in Ouidah road trip Ghanaian-based Nigerian Anita Ibru takes a road trip to explore Ghana’s fascinating neighbours of Togo and Benin… and gets more than she bargained for G hana is an island of English language passing the industrial surrounds of Tema before architectural style, visible in some of the city’s culture perched among the French– we got a glimpse of the Songaw Lagoon, the arcades and other old buildings such as the speaking countries of the Ivory Coast, biggest salt mining area in Ghana. The salt lakes Cathedral of the Sacred Heart. We didn’t have Togo and Benin. Many Ghanaians were an early highlight of our journey; the salt much time to linger but we couldn’t leave Lomé don’t get a chance to visit these harvesting in the area make it a protected zone. without visiting its historic hotel, Sarakawa countries rich in local and French culture and, of It’s also a potentially popular eco-tourist (Boulevard du Mono, BP 2232, 0 course, food. So when friends expressed an destination, being home to some rare species Lomé +228 22 27 65 90) which interest in visiting Benin, I persuaded them we of flora and fauna, including is located on Lomé Beach and should take a road trip to find out what we’d been sea turtles. Continuing on, we close to the city centre. We missing out on. We only had three days and three made our way through the BENIN dined at the restaurant Le nights to drive from Accra to the Beninese city of Volta region to Sogakope, Mercure which offers gourmet Cotonou, passing through Togo en route, but we which I instantly christened French cuisine. made number of memorable stops, taking in ‘the bread village’. Loaves TOGO Onward, we headed to Togo’s Snakes at Temple of Pythons, Ouidah (Voodoo) and the town hosts a Voodoo Festival bougainvillea on the driveway, and the resort’s colonial buildings, some local history and a series were everywhere. It transpired Grand Market where we found each January, attended by people from all around banana yellow chalets standing out against an of natural landscapes unlike Ghana. It was a long that the place was in fact GHANA local food, souvenirs and the world. Its other attractions include the Slavery azure sea in the distance. The resort also had a journey, but enough time to get a true taste of famous for its bread and clay artefacts (including some rather Museum (located at the former Portuguese slavery spa on stilts and great pools (for both adults and Benin and Togo. We chose not to rough it, finding bread ovens. It’s also home to Porto Novo Ouidah scary ones) followed by a quick port) and The Temple of Pythons. We managed to children), as well as watersports and mini golf. a good balance between fine dining, three-star the Holy Trinity Spa, which visit to Togo National Museum. stop at the latter. It was not for the faint-hearted. OUIDAH TO LOMé (and home) Cotonou accommodation and sightseeing. we passed near the Volta Lake Accra Lome As well as getting across the There were about 40 pythons in the cavernous bridge crossing. Food hawkers context of Togo’s history, it was temple, and visitors were welcome – in fact During the last stretch of the journey from Benin Accra to Lomé dished out local fare such as home to everything from preserved encouraged – to wrap one round their neck! The back to Togo we made one last stop – at Hotel le To reach Togo’s capital, Lomé from Accra, we first abolo and dried fish to passing musical instruments, weapons and dolls to guide was French-speaking, so some people might Lac, Abgodrafo. It’s a great place to call in for a had to drive across a wide stretch of savannah vehicles, ours included. collections of traditional pottery and jewellery. need a translator, but if you don’t catch any swim, with a lovely clean pool (or a lake if you’re east of Accra, followed by a narrower road At the border, the experience on the Ghana side The city’s Botanical Gardens would be another French at all, the main message is: ‘pythons rule feeling adventurous). It also offers watersports between the sea and Lake Volta, to reach the was markedly more official than when we crossed ideal stop for those in search of nature, providing the town’. They’re known as ‘Royal Pythons’ and (you can hire jetskis and pedalos). We didn’t have village of Aflao on the Ghanaian side of the over to the Togo side. To leave Ghana you need to an alternative to the beach views and attractions. considered so sacred that the temple entrance is a night to spare so had a meal – which was quite Ghana-Togo border. It was a smooth journey, have passports and money ready – i.e. a dash (or But the biggest surprise to be found in Lomé, left open at night to allow them to roam the town. pricey – before continuing back to Lomé. bribe) – for the immigration officers to stop them reminiscent of its former Paris-chic glory, is Le There’s an unwritten rule that if people find the We drove the same stretch of road back, keeping you there any longer than necessary (it Beluga (Rue de L’Entente, Ex Rue de L’Ocam, pythons in the town in the morning they should although this time passed through Vume, known should only take about fifteen minutes). If you Lomé +228 22 20 97 96) a high-end fusion return them to the temple. Unbelievable. We visited for its wonderful Ghanaian pottery, much of have an Ecowas passport, the rules are a bit restaurant where chef Soupany Khampraseuth further sites connected to the slave trade history, which was displayed for sale by the roadside, and sporadic, but the general advice for foreigners is serves up fine French food and wine. including The Tree of Forgetfulness. Captured finally reached Accra, 70 hours after first leaving. to obtain a seven-day visa, issued on the spot for slaves would walk around the trunk hoping to $15 (10,000 CFA), which works out much LOMé TO COTONOU forget their past lives and identities before being cheaper than getting a visa at the embassy Beyond Togo is the Republic of Benin. put onto the boats for America). Men used to walk beforehand. Once you reach the other side, Europeans first engaged in trade and around the tree nine times, women seven times. there are passports to receive and, again, commerce with the nation as early as the The tree itself has now been replaced by a statue money to leave your pocket. After a 16th century, with the slave trade of handsome and poignant commemorative of a mermaid, representing the sea and the little drama we were greeted by the There the Bight of Benin commencing monument that was erected to remind visitors and journey to a new life of slavery. Nearby was the were 40 beautiful beachfront of the Togo soon after. But the hour was late as locals about the country’s dark slave trade history. Monument of Repentance, erected in 1988 by the border (a quite surreally relaxed we crossed the border, so we drove Even though the title denotes ‘no return’ there is elders of Ouidah to ask for forgiveness for their setting, with the border control officers’ tables outside) and we were pythons straight to the country’s largest city, Cotonou, to stay at its newest hotel some superstitious hope surrounding the monument – that the captives will someday ancestors’ collaboration in the slave trade. Ouidah is also home to Hotel Casa del Papa finally on our way, enjoying the in the Azalai Hotel de La Plage (05BP347 return, at least in spirit. The ocean backdrop was (Casa del Papa, Ouidah Plage, Ouidah, Benin, ask coastal drive to Lomé. temple Cotonou, +229 21 31 72 00, azalaihotels.com/hotel-benin) breathtaking, and it was painful to reflect on the fact that this would have been the last view the for Mr De Souza on +229 95 95 12 50, www. casadelpapa.com), which was to be our last stop The Paris of Africa and instead woke up early the slaves would have had of their homeland before before heading back to the Benin-Togo border. We We could see why Lomé was once colloquially next day to do our Benin sightseeing on the their voyage to hell. The slave trade was at its certainly saved the best for last: this is the Cote known as the ‘Paris of Africa’. In spite of its way back to Lomé. most rampant here in the early 18th century, d’Azur of West Africa in terms of its coastline. political problems it still kept its Gallic charm, The following morning we headed to Ouidah although the entire trade era went on for The resort even has an extra touch of the exotic albeit a little tired. It had colourful houses, grand from Cotonou. This stretch of our journey offered three centuries. by being located between the sea and the lagoon. The Point of No Return boulevards, squares and pleasantly green the most fascinating sites and places of the trip. As well as its slave trade history, Ouidah is also It was a stunning sight: a red-earth dirt track The spa on stilts at Casa near Ouidah, Benin del Papa in Ouidah gardens. Lomé also retains traces of its colonial We headed first to The Point of No Return, a well known as the birthplace of Black Magic juxtaposed by hot pink and salmon-coloured 22 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 23 Sightseeing Take a tour of the Black Star of Africa Sightseeing 26 A tour through 1960 Critics’choice s Kwame Nkrumah is an essential part of Ghana’s history and a good Sightseeing Sights Nkrumah becomes president half-hour here will fill you in on most Ghana’s history Prime Minister Kwame Nkrumah is of the details. Events are held on on elected president as Ghana 6 March for Independence 1 becomes a republic. His legacy is Arts Centre An intense anniversary celebrations, and on 1 almost impossible to avoid in introduction to market life, but a August to mark Emancipation Day. Accra – there’s an Nkrumah fun one nevertheless. Pick up the High Street (0302 671 610). Open Many of the most important events in Ghana’s past Avenue, an Nkrumah Circle and an perfect souvenir in this large covered 10am-6pm daily. Admission Sightseeing Nkrumah Memorial Park & complex. See p27. Ghanaian adult GH¢0.50; non- happened around Accra. Take a tour in chronological order Mausoleum that can be visited Ghanaian adult GH¢1.50; extra 2 (see right). His heavy-handed ways WEB Du Bois Memorial charge for cameras. eventually led to widespread Centre The former residence of disaffection, and during a state African-American civil rights activist, is Independence Square and visit to China in 1966, a military a library, museum and mausoleum. Independence Arch s Pre-colonial history coup in Ghana ousted him from See p30. The stands around Independence The best place in power. He would never set foot in Square, with modernist and Ghana to get an 1957 his homeland again. 3 National Museum of Ghana Soviet-influenced lines, can seat The best museum in Ghana has an 30,000 people. The vast area, built insight into life before Ghana’s independence the colonial era is in impressive displays of life in this under Kwame Nkrumah, is designed movement the National Museum country. Gold weights, textiles and for huge events and military Ghana becomes independent (see p30). The stools are highlights. See p30. marches, but is usually empty from the United Kingdom. On museum gives an except for a few soldiers sheltering March 6 1957 Kwame opportunity to travel through the country’s history from both an Nkrumah declares Ghana ‘free forever’. Kwame Nkrumah 4 Artists Alliance Gallery This from the sun. The only times the huge art gallery – where everything square comes alive are at is for sale – has the best art collection commercial events such as concerts becomes prime minister and archaeological and in Ghana. See p31. and fashion shows, which take place Queen Elizabeth II monarch. ethnographic sporadically throughout the year. Independence Square and perspective. Much of the display is given Independence Arch, built to mark the event, are better Accra centre Even if there’s not much happening it’s worth wandering around just to marvel at the sheer audacity of it all. over to indigenous art known as Black Star Square, and crafts. Along the traffic-choked High Street The Independence Arch, at the after Ghana’s inspirational lead and 28th February Road, which run centre of the busy roundabout, is in a free and stable Africa. parallel to the Atlantic Coast, are also known as Black Star Square, s many of the major banks, thanks to the motif that dominates international offices of the arch. The sculpture is a nod to multinationals and the High Court. Ghana’s acclaim as the ‘Black Star The road then opens out and of Africa’: it was an inspiration whisks past the Kwame to other African countries Nkrumah Memorial vying for Park and the Centre for National Culture Top tip! independence and the Flame of African 1482 (Arts Centre), then Photography Liberation, lit by The Colonial era The Portuguese erect first trading fort, Elmina Castle (São 2009 s into Independence Square and Don’t take any pictures of public Nkrumah, still burns strongly nearby. Jorge da Mina); see p81. Like its Cape Coast equivalent, it US president Barack Obama visits Cape Coast Castle Independence Arch. buildings without Please note that there has strong links with the slave years and is registered as Obama visits Cape Coast Castle, a place instrumental in the West Behind the square is a permission. are (seemingly a World Heritage Site. Elmina Castle (also known as St African slave trade. In his first state visit to Africa he says: “I’ve come long expanse of beach, unwritten) laws about George’s) is the oldest extant European building in here to Ghana for a simple reason: The 21st century will be shaped by although it’s not the best for taking photographs and we sub-Saharan Africa. In 1637 the Dutch seize Elmina Castle what happens not just in Rome or Moscow or Washington, but by what bathing. The Centre for National strongly suggest that you don’t and within a few years take over the Portuguese Gold happens in Accra, as well.” Culture is a maze of hundreds of take photographs of any Coast. Today, tours can be taken around the fort. stalls selling crafts, textiles, part of the area. instruments and antiques from all over Western Africa. And although Arts Centre (Centre for s strictly in the Osu neighbourhood, National Culture) the beach-bound Osu Castle, also Also occasionally known as the known as Christianborg Castle, is Centre for National Culture, this is a along the beach road and included in popular location for visitors looking this section – it was still the seat of to pick up bargain crafts and the government until it recently souvenirs. The main part of the moved to Flagstaff House. Locals market, under a large roof, is full of 1960 generally refer to Osu as Oxford Street, the vibrant area a couple of stall after stall crammed with textiles, carvings, bags, clothing, W E B Du Bois celebrates independence kilometres inland. instruments and jewellery. This part American scholar William Edward Burghardt ‘W of the market can be quite intense E B’ Du Bois, known as the founding father of Kwame Nkrumah Memorial – expect to be followed around by Pan-Africanism, visits an independent Ghana. Park & Mausoleum guys touting poor quality masks. He is invited to stay and create an A national park erected in memory Further into the complex, however, encyclopaedia project there. The US refuse to of Osagyefo (the Messiah) Doctor is the outdoor market that holds renew his passport and he becomes a citizen Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first more interesting treasures such as of Ghana. He dies in Accra in 1963. His mausoleum and project can be visited at the 2013 s president and one of its founding fathers. Built on a former British metal ornaments, drums, wood furnishing, antique pieces and Du Bois Memorial Centre (see p30). The president (finally) moves to polo field, it was the point where leather goods – also the hassle Flagstaff House Nkrumah declared independence in decreases somewhat. Bargaining is a What president wouldn’t feel the majesty of his 1957. The park consists of five acres way of life here, so have fun and position in a literally ‘stool-shaped’ seat of of land and holds a museum tracing have in mind what you want to power? Well the previous president, the late Nkrumah’s life. There are many spend first. John Atta Mills for one, who chose to stay at personal items on display, but the 28th February Road, near Kwame Osu Castle. Three years after completion, centrepiece is the mausoleum, Nkrumah Monument, Accra Centre president John Dramani Mahama has decided Nkrumah and his wife’s final resting (0302 662 581). Open 8.30am-5pm to move to this remarkable building. place. Tours in English can be taken. Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat-Sun. 26 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 27 Osu Castle Jamestown Osu Castle is still closed to the public The oldest, and poorest, area of ORIENTATION Sightseeing while the seat of the government Accra is also one of the most alive. moves to Flagstaff House – although this has taken four years already. The Jamestown is vibrant, smelly and noisy, sound-tracked by the clatter The lay of the land chequered history of Osu Castle of pans, the babble of radios and T reflects the history of the Ghanaian the roar of exhausts. Low he main port has moved 10 miles nation. Initially called Christiansborg corrugated-iron roofs stand over (16 kilometres) east to Tema, and Castle, it was built by Danish painted shops, shacks and houses. Accra has seemingly turned its back colonialists in 1659 on land bought Wandering chickens negotiate open on the Atlantic Ocean. Even the great from a tribal chief in Accra. Over the drains and life-endangering Independence Square faces inland, following hundred years the fort, potholes, while washing-cobwebbed ignoring the beach and expanse of water smaller than the current construction, courtyards play host to spontaneous behind it. It’s also true that the latest was juggled between the Portuguese, football games. developments are moving further inland. Swedish and Danish. Sometimes it It wasn’t always quite like this. As a broad overview, Central Accra lies was taken over by force; other times The district was once the hub for a mostly within the Ring Road that arches from the eastern part of it was bought. In one incident in succession of Portuguese downtown to just beyond Jamestown in the west. The Ring Road is an 1693, the Akwamu ethnic group governments, before the city became essential part of Accra’s infrastructure and is constantly used to hop occupied the fort for several months the capital of the British Gold Coast from one neighbourhood to the next. Roundabouts such as Nkrumah before their canny leader, Assameni, in 1877. Amid the ramshackle streets Circle in Asylum Down, and Danquah Circle near the shopping and sold it back to the Danish for 50 of today’s Jamestown, the colonial eating centre of Osu and Labone, are essential travelling references. marks of gold, around US$350,000 handiwork can still be seen. And Although loosely split into various districts, the area within the Ring today. However, the keys were never despite the apparent poverty, the Road is generally known as the ‘Centre’, which is how it is referred to officially returned to the Danish and quarter still makes for a safe and throughout this guide. Almost in the middle of the city is Makola Market, remain symbolically in the friendly place through which to which is well worth a visit. It’s a shopping hub that’s become famous possession of the Akwamu even wander during the day. More than for its domination by women traders. now. After it fell into disrepair, the anywhere else in Accra, there’s an Outside the Ring Road are the wealthier areas of Cantonments and British rebuilt most of the fort in evident sense of community. Airport Residential. The biggest current expansion is around Airport 1824 and it became the seat of the Two buildings dominate the Residential, surrounding Kotoka International Airport, and Accra Mall British Gold Coast, remaining so until waterfront skyline. Fort James, built (see p49). Condominiums, plush hotels and, of course, the Accra Mall independence in 1957. Kwame by the British in the 17th century, itself, all make this a worthwhile area to stock up on international Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president, commands views over the Atlantic goods. Airport Residential is home to embassies and consulates, as moved there in 1960. At the from a perch above the fishing well as some good cafés and restaurants, and many more soon. beginning of 2009 the seat of the harbour. It served as a prison until government was supposed to move recently and there’s no chance of to Flagstaff House, however, only a entering, but it’s still compelling as a each). If you’re willing to part with They tend to be admirably upbeat couple of departments have made peeling, whitewashed memento of the cash, there’s a good panoramic occasions to witness. the move. Osu Castle is a constant days past. view from the top of the (possibly and poignant reminder of the slave Also of historical interest (and also not overly safe) spiral staircase. Usher Town trade that was largely administered pretty dodgy photo-wise) is the A road from the lighthouse leads Towards the centre of Accra is from the building and was often used nearby colonial-era lighthouse, built down to the harbour and fishing Usher Town, which links seamlessly to house slaves before they were in the 1930s. It’s not a tourist port, a superb spot to witness the with Jamestown along High Street. shipped to the Americas. There are attraction in the usual sense – no gift riotous colours thrown up by the Ussher Fort (High Street, 500m east plans afoot to turn it into a museum, shops or ticket offices here – but endless flotillas of traditional of Jamestown Fort, 0302 671 014) is but there is nothing concrete so far. stray within twenty metres and pirogues. Head down at daybreak to the most important sight in this The road is often blocked off by you’ll inevitably be accosted by a watch the beefy fishermen haul in area. It was built by the Dutch who soldiers but this may be relaxed as ‘guide’ offering to take you to the top their nightly catches (partly the named it Fort Crevecoeur in 1649. It the government moves. for a few cedi (usually around GH¢5 reason that Jamestown, and the was later renamed Ussher Fort shanty of Bukom in particular, after a British administrator at Independence Arch produces such good the time. A former boxers). A security officer may insist on a Top tip! slave-holding area like Jamestown Fort, it bit of money – we History was used as a prison suggest going with The National Museum until the 1990s. But a guide. is the best bet to get now the former prison Inland from the a historical overview (and garrison) is harbour is another of Ghana and undergoing a eye-catching remnant Accra. UNESCO-funded of the British era – the restoration to promote Methodist Church built from the area’s local heritage, imported bricks. develop new space for small Also of note is Brazil House (0208 businesses and increase tourism 173 143, Brazil Lane), a restored to the area, as well as preserving empire-era house that has been a reminder of Ghana’s past – transformed into a museum that said, there’s nothing to chronicling the history of Ghana’s show yet. Afro-Brazilian returnees. Known as Tours can currently be taken of the Tabom people (the reply to ‘how the building, including a look at are you?’ in Portuguese is ‘ta bom’), where Ghana’s national hero, Kwame they returned to Accra as a Nkrumah, was held. 70-strong group on the British Buffering Usher Town and the city government’s SS Salisbury in 1836. centre is one of Accra’s most The boxer Azumah Nelson is a pulsating experiences: Makola descendant of one of the returnees. Market. Almost anything you could Jamestown, unsurprisingly, is also hope to buy is within this sprawling one of the most densely populated maze. Like a contemporary souk, a areas of the city. Ghanaian tradition network of passageways, roads, stipulates that funerals should be buildings and paths weave through held in the deceased’s place of birth, the area. Hawkers, mostly women, and, as such, wakes can be sell an impossibly large array of witnessed almost every weekend. produce, clothes and home supplies. Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 29 Surprisingly, you are unlikely to be hassled much, this being the market G h anaian s torie s GUIDED TOURS Sightseeing Sightseeing place for the city’s residents. Not all tourists visit the area, but we A potted history of Accra Follow the lead of an expert certainly advise spending some time wandering this fascinating market. T he Accra area was first settled If you really want to push the boat Ghana Nima Tours Osu in the 15th century by the Ga out on a trip to the region, there With his infectious smile and Osu is probably the most happening people (lending their name to are a range of public or private boundless sincerity, Charles part of town. The busy Cantonments Ghana when it became independent tours – many of them themed Sablah is a reliable and safe Road, known to virtually everyone as in 1957) who called the town Accra – that can make a visit to Accra, or guide, and you leave feeling Oxford Street, is a hub of activity 24 – ‘ants’ in Nkran – because of the any other part of Ghana. Highly someone has given you privileged hours a day. Many of Accra’s best quantity of large anthills that still recommended are Charles insight. He charges just GH¢5 per bars (see pp34-38, Bars & cafés), dominate the region. From the Sablah’s Ghana Nima Tour and hour per person, and offers a restaurants (see pp39-48, beaches of the Atlantic the Ga Global Mama’s. special price for groups. Restaurants) and shops (see pp49-56, traded with the Portuguese, who (024 627 0095, http:// Shopping) are in Osu. Stalls line the soon became colonisers and built the first fort in Jamestown (see p29). Abacar Tours ghana-nima-tours.yolasite.com) street and hawkers hound tourists, Despite initial resistance – the fort was soon razed to the ground – a Set up by a Ghanaian/French selling personalised wristbands, fake succession of other colonial intruders used Accra as one of the couple, this tour agency is Ghana Safari Tours Rolexes and football shirts. gateways to West Africa and its riches; namely gold and slaves. British, recommended by the Ghanaian Ghana Safari Tours was set up by Dutch and Danish settlers constructed forts along the coast and soon Tourist Board. Its main tours are Swedish nationals and their Oxford Street began to settle beyond the walls. By the time Accra became the capital either one- or two-week itineraries, Ghanaian partner who has Cantonments Road, between Lokko of the British Gold Coast in 1877, it was one of the largest cities in although bespoke tours can be first-hand experience of Road and the busy Danquah Circle, Africa and the centre of the region. booked. The guides are also Ghanaian safaris and other might be known as Oxford Street, Two earthquakes in 1862 and 1939 destroyed much of the early Francophone. adventure tours. There are a wide but shares little with London’s colonial architecture but remnants can still be seen, particularly around 39 Bobo Street, Tesano, Accra range of existing and bespoke shopping hotspot. The only the neighbourhoods of Jamestown and Ushertown. Osu Castle (see (0249 574 691, www.abacar- tours for reasonable prices. similarity is the volume of people p29), Fort James (see p29) and Ussher Fort (see p29), are the most tours.com). (www.ghanasafaritours.com). and traffic. Probably the busiest important edifices still in use today. street in Accra, it’s the site of Since independence from Britain in 1957, when it became the Apstar Tours Global Mamas bars, clubs, restaurants and second African country to emerge as a nation state, Ghana has been Founded in 1987, Apstar is a The tours offered by Global boutique shops. There are no specific held as a twinkling example of stable democracy in the continent. It was member of the Tour Operators Mamas, an NGO dedicated to tourist sights, but its constant Ghana’s first Prime Minister, Kwame Nkrumah, who popularised the Union of Ghana (TOUGHA), and fostering women-owned bustle makes it an essential part concept of ‘the Black Star of Africa’. Reinforced on the flag, in the name has a focus on history. There are enterprises, are likely to tick the of any visit. of the football team, and in the central square of Accra, the Black Star standard day tours and bespoke right boxes for most visitors. In Ussher Fort Expect some friendly hassle at the is a powerful symbol of the country’s independence. longer tours for all group sizes. Accra, there is the day-long northern end (one scam is to ask Although the country’s 55 years of independence have not been 36 Forest Road, Accra (0302 519 ‘Market & Spice’ tour and a your name and then appear 20 without their troubles, Ghana remains one of the continent’s success stools, a seminar room, a restaurant, exhibition about the slave trade is youngsters playing football. If you 931, www.apstartours.travel). ‘Drumming & Dancing Workshop’ minutes later with it embroidered on stories. Accra in the early 21st century is a sprawling urban city a gallery, an amphitheatre and a essential viewing, outlining the go through the main entrance by – GH¢17 for three or more, or a wristband), but this dissipates splashed with a free-for-all range of architecture that horrifies and research centre for Pan-African era’s brutal history and showing Labadi Beach Hotel, it costs GH¢3 BLASTours GH¢21 for two people. In Cape further down. The area is even delights in equal measure. history and culture. poignant relics such as shackles. Mon-Fri and GH¢5 Sat, Sun A Ghanaian-owned tour operator Coast, Global Mamas offers busier during the evenings when There are museums and art galleries to browse, as well as important Off 2nd Circular Road, Cantonments There’s also a gallery with pieces between 5am-7pm. There are bars, specialising in cultural tours. It cooking, batik and revellers hit the bars. Many of the buildings from Ghana’s colonial past offering an insight into the (0302 776 502, www.webdubois-gh. by Ghanaian artists. This is an area restaurants and some shops down offers a bespoke service for headwrapping workshops. shops and restaurants are actually country’s remarkable history, from a region of tribal societies, through org). Open 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; we have heard will undergo some there. Expect loud music and flying tourists and business travellers 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road off Cantonments Road, on the colonisation and the horrors of the slave trade, to become the ‘Black 10am-4pm Sat. Admission GH¢3 for improvement soon. footballs. It’s not the cleanest beach, and can organise transport, hotel (Oxford Street), behind Koala quieter numbered lanes. At one end Star of Africa’, a heroic example of one of the first sub-Saharan a tour (GH¢1 for camera). Barnes Road, Adabraka (0302 221 so best not to swallow too much accommodation, home-stays, Supermarket, Osu (0244 530 of Cantonments Road is the busy independent states. 633). Open 9am-6pm Tues-Sun. water. It’s also home to the excellent guides and conference equipment 467, www.ghanaexpeditions.com). Danquah Circle, a roundabout on the Today, with a burgeoning tourism industry and, yes, all that oil off the Adabraka & Asylum Down Admission GH¢7. resorts of Labadi Beach Hotel (see for large-scale meetings. Ring Road, named after one of coast of Takoradi, now seems the time for Brand Ghana to make the North of Jamestown and just p76) and La Palm Royal Beach (see Sakumono, Tema (0302 404460, Royal Derby Tours Ghana’s founding fathers JB most of its stock around the world. And where Accra is concerned, it is within the Ring Road are the National Theatre p76), both have good pools to enjoy, www.blastours.com). Part of a large company that has Danquah. The circle is generally the atmosphere of Accra will reside in most people’s memory long after neighbourhoods of Ridge and The unmistakable architecture of as does the Mövenpick (see p74). tours across West Africa, Royal crowded day and night. the souvenirs have been lost or stored in the attic. Adabraka – two lively communities the National Theatre deserves to be ConnectWorld Travel Services Derby is a well-established firm. around the Nkrumah Circle and seen – it has been described as Artists Alliance Gallery ConnectWorld is licensed by the The Ghanaian tours tend to be five Cantonments & Labone Asylum Down. This area is a either a ship, or, more abstractly, as This three-storey gallery is home to Ghana Tourist Board and holds days or more. Farther north on the Cantonments area, although somewhat dispersed. unique architecture is said to be mish-mash of offices, street stalls a seagull spreading its wings. a large array of Ghanaian artists membership to ASTA. It offers (244 949 225, www. Road, over the Danquah Circle, is the There are several good restaurants based on the sacred Asante Golden and commercial buildings. Chinese developers built the theatre and sculptors such as Augustine tours across Ghana and also in royalderbytours.com). neighbourhood known as and cafés. Stool, emblematic of the birth of the Towards the centre are the and it opened in 1992 as the Gokah, Betty Acquah, Nii T Mills, Togo, Benin, Mali and Burkina Cantonments. It’s one of the kingdom, but the cost of National Museum of Ghana and centrepiece for cultural life in Ebenezer Borlabie, Kofi Faso. The tours can cover culture, Sunseekers Tours wealthiest areas of Accra, home to Flagstaff House construction has inspired a the National Theatre. Ghana. It’s home to the Setorji and Gabriel history, adventure, eco-tourism Sunseekers offers the whole embassies, consulates and heavily-guarded houses. The There is, quite simply, no other building on earth like Accra’s passionate debate. Although completed in 2009, the president and National Museum of Ghana National Symphony Orchestra, the Top tip! Eklou. Ablade Glover, one of Ghana’s most and recreational travel. PO Box CT 1946, Cantonment, gamut of tours, from multi-day adventures to city tours. highlight here is the WEB Du Bois new-ish presidential palace, and seat staff only moved there in early 2013. The National Museum is home to National Theatre Safety respected artists, Accra (0244 363 360, www. 9 Farrah Avenue, (0302 225 393, Memorial Centre. Labone, to the east of the government, Flagstaff House What will happen to the previous some of Ghana’s most absorbing Players, National Accra is remarkably safe conceived the Artists connectworldgroup.com). www.sunseekerstours.com). of Osu, is a pleasant and quieter (formerly Golden Jubilee House). The seat of government, Osu Castle, is historical finds. The museum, Dance Company and for West Africa, but as Alliance Gallery in the still unknown, but there is talk of opened by the Duchess of Kent in three youth groups. anywhere, be careful with 1960s. He saw the turning it into museum. 1957, gives an opportunity to travel The events calendar valuables and walking need for a showcase Liberation Road. through the country’s history from is getting better all late at night. for fine arts in Ghana both an archaeological and the time, but it still to act as a driving force to WEB Du Bois Memorial Centre ethnographic perspective. Much of seems seriously under-used. gain recognition around the William Edward Burghardt Du Bois the display is dedicated to Liberia Road and Independence world. There are not only was an African-American civil rights indigenous art and crafts: there are Avenue, Adabraka (0302 663 449, contemporary arts, but also activist who became a citizen of regalia, musical instruments and facebook.com/ collectors’ pieces: beautiful, fragile Ghana in the 1960s. He was known the all-important royal Asante NationalTheatreofGhana). Asafo flags with appliquéd and as the ‘Father of Pan-Africanism’. stools. Other displays include Admission GH¢1, extra charge for embroidered symbols, and ancient The centre, where he and his wife Asante goldweights, currency, cameras. strip-woven Kente cloths. It sells art once lived, and where they are now instruments, textiles and directly from the artist. There’s a buried, houses his personal library leatherwork. Slighty hidden away is Labadi good gift shop with minature style and a small museum with a handful the chair used in Kwame Nkrumah’s The city’s most popular beach is coffins and Kente cloth. of personal effects such as his inauguration and the chair of the further east in Labadi. At weekends Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach graduation robes. The couple’s last British governor, rescued from the place is filled with families Road, Labadi (0302 762 576, www. National Museum mausoleum is surrounded by Asante Christiansborg Castle. An frolicking in the surf and artistsallianz.com). Admission free. 30 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 31 Consume Where to eat, drink and shop Bars, Pubs & Clubs 34 Bars, Pubs & Clubs section Restaurants 39 produced in association with Shopping 49 Bars, Pubs & convene for delicious grilled chicken, staff sporting black shirts, braces Drink Responsibly 18+ Cocktail culture thick pork chops and good company and the odd hat set to a jaunty angle. Bars, Clubs for a drink. It has a worn old-school vibe, which is accentuated by the clientele who tend to be Accra’s old Food spans light nibbles and three-course meals, with a silver chainmail curtain gesturing a divide Osu timers and expats. Don’s has a solid between drinkers and diners. Pubs Bella Roma The popularity of Bella Roma shows reputation for good jazz and other live music as well as high-quality meat-oriented fare. Visit on a 11th Lane, Embassy Road (0302 777 818, Facebook page). Open 5pm-3am Tue-Sun. A man walks into a bar… and asks for a Moscow Mule and a Mixed Berries and Basil Splitter. The first Favourite cocktail? Moscow Mule & Clubs no sign of abating, thanks to its combination of good cocktails, good music and good vibes. It’s set just off weeknight for a hefty chop, grab a beer and mingle with the locals. It’s a relaxing place for a well-rounded Honeysuckle Pub and Restaurant you may have heard of, but The Lexington’s very own mixologist designed the latter. They are two Best cocktail outside The Lexington? Santoku Restaurant Oxford Street behind Frankie’s, but meal and intimate conversation. Based on a regular local boozer, the very different drinks, with one on weekend evenings you’ll hear the There’s a huge HD TV showing all Honeysuckle in Osu is appeals to the aspect in common: Smirnoff vodka. Favourite spirit base? music first. It teeters somewhere the football games, a wide range of odd homesick Brit, but mainly a The Moscow Mule, a mix of Smirnoff Vodka between a bar, nightclub and single malts and a dartboard. When local crowd enjoying the pool table Smirnoff, ginger beer and lime, restaurant (see p40 for food details), it’s busy, the action moves outside. or Premiership football. It’s decked came out of the US in the 1940s. It Favourite non-alcoholic and the bar area has been recently 30 Ajoatse Street, Nyaniba Estate out in kitsch red velvet chairs and was invented by John G Martin, ingredient? expanded. Walking into the joint, to (0302 769 152). Open noon- striped wallpaper with framed Jack Morgan (who owned a Fresh mixed berries the left is a partially open-air midnight daily. pictures of old British pubs, and dancefloor with a DJ football teams next to scarves and company that produced ginger beer) and Rudolph Kunett, James Best cocktail you’ve designed? spinning crowd- pleasing dance and Top tip! Duplex Lounge and Bar the inevitable ‘dogs playing snooker’ prints. The central bar serves a good president of Pierre Smirnoff (as it was called then) in 1941. Jack Mixed Berries and Basil Splitter – see recipe. hip hop. Cocktails and Tall order The ever-popular selection of international spirits and Tapatheo beers are the drinks of Order a beer and more Duplex has recently beers, including local beers on draft. Morgan told the New York Times: choice. There’s good often than not you’ll get moved location within King Tackie Tawiah Overpass (027 “We three were quaffing a slug, Best classic cocktail? food using quality a litre. Spirit measures in Osu, and if anything 555 6006). Open noon-12.30am nibbling an hors d’oeuvre and Margarita Italian ingredients. cocktails also tend to is more popular. The Sun-Thur; 1pm-1.30am Fri, Sat. shoving toward inventive genius.” Off Cantonments be strong. new premises is Quite. Road (Oxford Street), bigger than the former Lizzy’s The Mixed Berries and Basil Moscow Mule – behind Frankie’s (024 7474 although occupies only one Ahh, Lizzy’s. There’s a little place in Splitter, however, was born in the The Lexington 007,
[email protected], floor. The décor is brighter and our heart for Lizzy’s. Little more than bars of Accra. It may not have a 50ml Smirnoff Vodka Facebook page). Open 6pm-late. more upmarket than the last and the a few plastic chairs on a street snappy name, but it’s popular at 25ml lime juice small outside terrace fills up quickly corner, flanked by some very big The Lexington – a brilliantly 25ml ginger syrup Cuzzy Bro’s on those balmy nights. It has an speakers, this beer-fuelled spot is an refreshing drink, perfect to cool Favourite non-alcoholic 3 dashes of Angostura bitters Ryan’s Bar is dead. Long live Cuzzy easy-going attitude and manages to edifying experience. Away from the down in the stifling heat of ingredient? - Add all in Boston shaker then Bro’s. The good times are still rolling feel exclusive without being in the pretence of some Accra nightspots, Ghana’s capital. Below are Passion fruit cordial. It has a sweet shake for 15 sec and strain into in this large Osu bar, with even more least bit snobbish. It is popular with it’s reassuringly down-to-earth and recipes for all of them, but first a fruity taste and pleasant smell. a Copper Mug filled with sold live music, barbeques and excellent the young expat crowd. one of the best places to mix with chat with two of Accra’s best cubes of ice then top up with Cocktails at The Lexington food. Its owners, a South African Off Kuku Hill, near NDC Accra residents. Fridays and mixoligists right now. Best cocktail you’ve designed? ginger beer then garnish with restaurateur and a Polynesian Kiwi Headquarters, Osu (0245 999 999). Saturdays are when it really swings, One of the best cocktails I infused flamed lime wedge and opened the place in June 2013, to Open noon-late daily. and the mood and music both personally made is the Spintex light to give it good aroma. Q&A: James Pick and mix much acclaim from Accra’s expat step up in tempo around 10pm. Train. It is made from vodka, community. Along with a Kiwi chef, they’ve also brought a jukebox, a Firefly Lounge Bar Industrial chic has arrived in Accra. Order a large Star and watch Accra swagger by. Teye Oloko cranberry juice and blue curacao Mixed Berries and children’s play area and a love of As if plucked from the streets of Contonments Road (Oxford Street), James, 29, has been a barman at over ice in a highball glass with Basil Splitter – orange slice as garnish. rugby (of course). Manhattan, this confident nightspot opp Papaye (0302 783 278). Open Rhapsody’s for five years and The Lexington A great cocktail can (finally) be found in Accra Troas Street, off Cantoments Road has effortlessly slid to the forefront 10am-late Mon-Sat; 6pm-late Sun. previously worked at Citizen Kofi. 50ml mixed berries Best classic cocktail? as a new generation of bars are spending (Oxford Street) (026 608 6003, of the city’s social scene; its Margarita. This much-loved 50ml Smirnoff Vodka cuzzybro.com.gh). Open noon-11pm whitewashed brickwork, dim Lounge @ Frankie’s Favourite cocktail? 25ml simple syrup serious time training the next great mixologists Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri; lighting and edgy beats attracting a Situated on the second floor of Rhapsody’s Blue. This is one of our Mexican drink consist of the finest 25ml fresh lime juice silver tequila, Cointreau or triple 10pm-midnight Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. preened and international crowd. A Frankie’s is this surprising little signature cocktails. Its made up of 6 big basil leaves T sec and sour mix and gives you he cocktail resurgence in Combine that with a serious and lit backbar glows with premium lounge and bar. While the rest of the sour mix, Smirnoff vodka, gin, blue - Serve in a coupette glass the option of plain, frozen with salt London and New York has flexible DJ, live music, good and Don’s Place blends, and cocktail aficionados, Frankie’s complex feels like the fast curacao and topped with Sprite. - Add all the Ingredients in a This centrally located Osu hideaway spirit lovers and wine drinkers alike food restaurant that it is, through the rim and fresh lemon wheel or slice, truly arrived in Accra, smartly friendly service and some moreish Served in a long island glass over Boston shaker then shake for dressed, with a little black book of bars snacks (we recommend the is locally regarded as the spot to pull up stools to confer with chatty frosted glass doors is a much more as a garnish. ice and garnished with cherry. This 15 sec and double strain into a mixes and silver shaker. Before sliders at The Lexington and the sophisticated area. blue cocktail is mostly enjoyed by coupette glass and garnish with this year, we’d never seen barman taste a drink in a straw before cassava chips at Republic), you have one seriously fun, and Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. the ladies! Q&A: Tapatheo basil leaves. serving it, let alone pander to decadent, night out. com). Open 7am-11.30pm daily. Best cocktail outside Rhapsody’s? of The Lexington Rhapsody’s Rainbow requests for a smoky martini and It’s not all about the chi-chi The Lexington, I had the espresso Tapatheo, 28, is the barman at The serve a perfect example. Heck, we cocktails. A cold Star or Club in a Monsoon Recipe – Rhapsody’s martini. Lexington, and worked from being - Pour 25ml grenadine in a even commissioned our own roadside bar like Lizzies can offer The lively Oxford Street venue a cleaner at Champs Sports Bar to cocktail from The Lexington. the best insight into nightlife Monsoon continues to succeed in Long Island glass and fill the Favourite spirit a mixologist with his own company glass with ice cubes. Next time ask for the ‘Time in Accra. Other favourite drawing the crowds. It’s a popular base? training bar staff from Accra in - Add 25ml Bacardi Light Rum, Out Accra! It is The Lexington, drinking establishments choice for the expat community, and Definitely Vodka. mixology. His international CV is 25ml Smirnoff Vodka, 25ml alongside Firefly and include Bella Roma, its broad street-facing terrace Santoku at the These are +233 and Monsoon. remains a hive of activity at Vodka mixes with just about anything, impressive, having worked at the Smirnoff Experience in New York, Southern Comfort on top of forefront of the cocktail revolution in Accra. the most Categorising bars in Accra, however, is no weekends. It’s not the cheapest place in town, but when you see the but can also be Ghana Rocks and Ludacris 02 the ice. - Pour 25ml Blue Curacao and And a bar that takes its time over an Old exciting easy task. Many of the establishments here icon-heavy interior design, the impressively stocked bar and the cut enjoyed neat or on the rocks. Live. He’s also worked on TV in Ghana making cocktails. 25ml Lime Cordial in a blender, add ice, enough to fill the Fashioned and a bars in also offer food (the of the clientele, you’ll understand blender one third. Blend all Bloody Mary is one that also invests time Accra best of these are listed in the why. DJs play Friday and Saturday night. With three restaurants on site IN ASSOCIATION WITH SMIRNOFF together until the ice in nice and smooth. on the menu, design and vibe. It’s Restaurant section; see pp39-48), (including a teppanyaki kitchen and no surprise these, along with so the ones we’ve listed here are a sushi outlet), there’s good food to Join us at - Pour the blended concoction in the Long Island glass. Add Republic (which has some brilliant the best places in the city where be had too. www.facebook.com/ two straws and garnish with a cocktails mixed from palm wine you can order a beer or cocktail 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford SmirnoffGhana orange wheel. – a local brew), are the most without feeling obliged to order a Street), above Osu Food Court (0302 Firefly Lounge Bar exciting in Accra right now. meal as well. 782 307). Open 6pm-late Mon-Sat. 34 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 35 NEW Republic Bar & Grill And don’t be surprised if you see Music is the defining factor at this hands-on manager Marcel Desailly fairly new little bar that has seen wandering about the complex when highlife legend Ebo Taylor pass he’s in Ghana. through its doors. Album covers and Cotton Street, East Legon (0302 521 black and white photos of music 851, www.lizzysportscomplex.com). stars adorn the walls as Ghana’s best music blasts out – live too on the Accra Mall & Spintex Road Bars, Pubs & Clubs terrace; check out the Facebook page Rhapsody’s and Twitter account for details. But Rhapsody’s is close to both the the food is making waves as well – airport and surrounding hotels, the cassava chips are a fabulous ensuring the South African chain accompaniment for a caipirihna gets a steady supply of expats and made from traditional palm wine, moneyed locals to sample its and the Fire Go Burn You pepper extensive drink and cigar selection. soup and Ye Ye Goat soup for GH¢18 There are two halves to the interior is superb value for something this – an informal lounge, complete with tasty. One of the most happening panel-lit horseshoe bar and football bars in Accra right now. on widescreen TVs, and a white- 3rd Lane, off Oxford Street (024 tableclothed restaurant with padded 631 4044, facebook.com/ Recommended wall fabrics. Things crank up a RepublicBarGH, @TheRepublicGH. notch on Fridays and Saturdays Open noon-2am Mon-Sat; The Lexington when DJs spin tunes: expect sizeable 4pm-2am Sun. crowds, and be aware that you’ll The Lexington is billed as ‘Accra’s hottest concept bar and have to pay if you arrive post-11pm. Venus restaurant’, and the early buzz has further compounded this view – This is also a popular place for Quite a transformation at Venus bar. this is a place that knows good living. One of the key reasons to go business meetings. It’s always been popular, but the here is (halleluiah) great cocktails. You’ll find a well-made dry Shops 66-68, Accra Mall, Spintex recent refurbishment shows it has martini, plus a a wide array of creative mixed drinks, such as the Road (0302 823 148, seriously upped its game. It’s now a tequila, pineapple, and black pepper infused Lucky Lilly. The bar www.rhapsodys.co.za). Open hotspot by day for young travellers snacks are very, very good indeed. They include a mini cheeseboard noon-midnight Sun-Thur; noon-2am tapping away on MacBooks, with cornichons – see these guys know how to run a cocktail bar, Fri, Sat. enjoying a coffee, or a bite to eat but it’s hard to pick these out when the sliders with handmade buns from the reasonably-priced made in-house are so good. On the main dinner menu are fillet Santoku Lebanese-inspired menu in the steaks (with good-quality meat sourced from South Africa) and rack See picture review, page 38. air-conditioned bar, or outside on the of lamb. Its Friday evening half-priced happy hour (6-9pm) is a comfortable and leafy terrace – both popular post-work meet up. Popular at The Lexington are the Silver Lounge seem an age away from the busy fortnightly quiz nights, intimate concerts featuring Africa’s leading Silver Lounge is very silver indeed. intersection outside. By night, the artists, and the big-screen, HD projectors that show all the major Gleaming above the boutiques and cocktails and beer consumption sports fixtures from around the world. It’s also open for breakfast, homeware outlets of Accra Mall, the ramp up and Venus becomes a really and who couldn’t love a place that has a breakfast cocktail menu. latest offering from Silverbird lively bar. 40 Ring Road, Paloma Shopping Arcade (0240 959 406, 0544 346 entertainment is a stylish cocktail 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road 911, www.thelexingtonaccra.com; Facebook page). Open 5pm-close haunt clad in a vast array of metallic (Oxford Street), (0302 782 250, Mon-Fri; 10am-close Sat & Sun. shades. One of the more pungent is www.bybloshotelghana.com). Open Income Tax, a heady mix of gin, 9am-1am Mon-Thur; 9am-3am Fri, martini rosso, dry martini and Sat; 4pm-1am Sun. anyone else with a nose for a drink in East Legon orange juice. For classic fizz, there’s a pleasant surroundings. The Lizzy’s Sports Complex good selection of champagne, Adabraka & Asylum Down eponymous Robi amiably presides This is Marcel Desailly’s impressive including a bank-account-emptying The Lexington over the drinking. Upstairs is a more sporting complex. The sports bar Ace of Spades for GH¢1,500. And, of See picture review. relaxed affair, where the open will likely attract the big names who course, no self-respecting Accra bar kitchen cooks authentic Dutch live in East Legon, as well as would be seen dead without the Labone snacks such as bitterballen members of the corporate league obligatory flat screen showing the Robi’s Dutch Pub (meatballs), sausages and chips. who play on Friday and Saturday football. There’s no chance of missing Robi’s Dade Street, Labone (024 526 3582, nights. The bar overlooks a pool and First floor, Accra Mall, Tettah Dutch Pub – its bright orange façade www.dutchpub.com). Open noon- a couple of the five-a-side pitches, Quashie and Spintex Road (0302 (what else?) shines like a beacon for 10am Mon-Thur; noon-midnight but eyes are more likely going to be 823 040, www.silverbirdghana.com). homesick Dutch, and pretty much Fri; 3pm-midnight Sat. on the screens for the big games. Open call for details. Sweetie’s Although a bit of a distance beyond Accra Mall, this multifaceted venue is the perfect location for a quiet sophisticated drink in the downstairs bar. There is also a quiet VIP area, with modern African soft furnishings. The musicians, when they are in, are often of the jazz or traditional highlife ilk. Off Spintex Road, just before the Airport Hills entrance near the Lister Hospital. Open from 5pm until late Tue-Sat. Clubs Aphrodisiac The Dzorwulu venue has been open since late 2009 (it was previously in Venus Airport Residential) – Thursday, 36 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights Cinderella’s Rockstone’s Office Twist are free for ‘suitably attired ladies’ Being located right next to another This bar is owned by ‘Godfather of Twist has been extended to include a (!)before 1am. Music varies from Accra hotspot, Rockstone’s Office, Hiplife’ Reggie Rockstone. Reggie has dancefloor and DJ booth inside. The evening to evening: there’s rock and Cinderella’s sports a cosy VIP and succeeded in creating a kind of hip bar caters to an upmarket set, who ragga on Thursdays, R’n’B and sometimes-raucous atmosphere. The hop casual environment, so alongside loiter around the outdoor patio of the bashment on Fridays and highlife/ management are very open to the white leather sofas and large garden. hiplife on Sundays. Saturday is ‘Old takeover nights. bum-grinding beautiful people there’s Number 8, 5th Circular Road, Skull Nite’. DJs are on rotation. Osu Avenue, off Ring Road behind a relaxed outside terrace and an opposite Alisa Hotel, Cantonments Bars, Pubs & Clubs Check the website for details. Police HQ (0262 686 852, easy-come dress code. There’s often (0302 772 179, www.headlines.gh. 35 Nii Badu Street, Dzorwulu (0302
[email protected], live music on Wednesdays and it com). Open 4pm-12am Tue-Thur; 766 738, www.clubaphro.com, Facebook page). Open from 8pm occasionally hosts the Bless the Mic 4pm-2am Fri-Sat. Facebook page). Wed-Sat. Admission GH¢5-10. collective (Facebook page). But it’s at weekends when things Exel Smirnoff’s picks really get going, with booming hiplife carrying the crowd through to 6am. Exel is an upmarket club for the baller set – come heavy or not at all. The best places in Accra to His GrandPapazz is next door – a VIP only area. But most people will The club cultivates an air of exclusivity. There’s a pleasant get a perfectly mixed cocktail end up on the terrace at some point. Near Police HQ, behind Japanese Embassy (244 679 057). Open atmosphere throughout the weekend. Near Nyaho Clinic, Airport Residential. Open from 9pm-late 1 The Lexington Why? Expertly trained mixologists blend inventive house cocktails as well as perfectly mixed classics. They use only 5pm-late Wed-Sun. Fri-Sat. the finest quality ingredients. It’s worth mentioning the bar snacks here are very, very good. What’s the vibe? The Lexington is a bar of two halves – a chilled out bar area with banquette seating where you can grab a good meal, or a glitzy area where the tables are moved as the dancing fire up. What to order? Mixed Berries and Basil Splitter: berries, lime, Smirnoff, syrup and basil. 2 Santoku Why? Not only is it the classiest bar in Accra, it’s also home to the best restaurant. But we care about the drinks – there are some astonishing blends here using sakes and champagne mix by master mixologists. What’s the vibe? The bar area and terrace is a classy and relaxed placed for a pre-dinner drink, or somewhere to come just to enjoy a really superb drink. What to order? Asian Collins: Cardamom- infused bourbon, citrus, mango, served long over crushed ice and finished with cracked black pepper. 3 Firefly Why? Not only is its Osu location handy for a night out, this dark, classy bar is small and perfectly formed. The international team behind the bar have put its cocktails at the forefront of its bar scene. What’s the vibe? DJs spin an eclectic mix of lively music from around the world. Either sit back and enjoy excellent burgers, or hang around the bar. What to order? A Moscow Mule 4 Rhapsody’s Why? Well-trained staff conjure up some fabulous house drinks, as well as all the classics. What’s the vibe? A well-mannered sports bar. Recommended There’s a quiet dining area to enjoy the excellent South African meats on offer, but most Santoku congregate around the horseshoe bar sipping on cocktails. Since opening, the bar at Santoku is fast establishing itself as a What to order? Rhapsody’s drinks destination in its own right. Alongside the amazing food (see Blue made up of sour mix, p41), is one of Accra’s best offerings of cocktails. They retain the Smirnoff vodka, gin, blue same international standard as the food. While the mixologists can curacao and topped with sprite. turn their spinning hands to the classics, it’s the signature cocktails that are of real interest. Original creations worth sampling include Pom-Fashioned (featuring Havana añejo especial rum, pomegranate molasses mixed with apple and lychee juice, a dash of Angostura IN ASSOCIATION WITH SMIRNOFF bitters shaken and served short over ice). Other drinks include award-winning sakes, Japanese whiskies, and the best wine list in Join us at the city. Ground Floor, Azure, Villagio Vista, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange www.facebook.com/ (0544 311 511, www.santoku-restaurant.com). Bar & lounge open SmirnoffGhana 5pm-1am daily; restaurant 6.30am-midnight. 38 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 The spice of life Ghanaian food is fabulous. From grilled fresh fish with spicy Restaurants sauce to the West African classic jollof rice, you’ll never tire of eating your way through the great Ghanaian menu. Here & Cafés are a few dishes to get you started Groundnut soup & fufu Star beer Kontomire & rice The nuts ground in this dish are peanuts (if you Along with Club, This is a truly delicious dish, bursting with want to do it at home – that’s a lot of peanut Star beer is the peppery flavour. There’s usually the choice butter), but that’s not the overwhelming flavour. taste of Ghana. between beef or fish that is heavily seasoned This is a delicious blend of ginger, garlic, tomato, No meal is and cooked until meltingly tender. It’s then hot pepper, chicken, or guinea fowl (as in this complete without mixed with loads of spinach (the key picture). It comes in a huge bowl, like this one an ice cold beer. ingredient), fried onion, dried ground shrimps pictured at Buka, with fufu, a sticky, starchy ball (a common seasoning), and meat stock, then made from pounded cassava, yams or plantains. simmered. Served with rice or boiled yam. Take a small bit in your hand and dip in. Peppered Gizzard Jollof rice Kelewele This side dish is popular in In a previous issue of Time Out Accra, one food Nom, nom, nom. Salted and Nigeria and Ghana. It is author described jollof rice as ‘the little black peppered plantain chips. Can essentially marinated chicken dress of Ghanaian cuisine’. Few doubt it’s the there be anything else so gizzards, grilled with onion, hot most popular. So ubiquitous is it, they serve it moreish? These are a delicious peppers, parsley and lots of in fried chicken joints instead of chips. The rice addition to any Ghanaian meal. spices. Cooked well, it’s one of is cooked in a spicy sauce (rather like a paella), And the good news is, there’s a the surprise dishes of a Ghanaian and it’s the sauce’s ingredients that give it a vast menu left to try. menu. Make sure to order a side. lip-tanging flavour. Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 39 Osu Eating out in Accra the folks at Chase (see p43) put this right in December 2012. The Osu location should see it become pretty Dynasty Restaurant Chinese For almost 20 years, Dynasty has dominated Osu’s fancier eating Little India Sunshine Salad Bar Indian & salads It’s tempting to say that Little India Expensive Where and what to eat in Accra popular. Chase have done a scene. This upmarket and highly does the best salads in Accra. Au Grand Ecuyer French professional job at their Labone regarded Chinese restaurant attracts There’s little doubt that it has the Au Grand Ecuyer is primarily a location and this seems to have a steady flow of business people and broadest selection – there are 29 E French continental restaurant. ating out in Accra can be carried through to El Paso with the young wealthy lovers with its different varieties in all, and portions French-African owned and operated, as cosmopolitan an affair service. It’s pretty much what you’d authentic cuisine and slick service. are generous. As well as its salads it serves continental cuisine with a as you desire, with the expect from a Tex-Mex style Alongside the usual suspects on an (split into seafood, vegetarian and profound twist of local flavour. The city’s growing assortment of Mexican restaurant outside of extensive menu are some interesting chicken categories), there’s also an seafood-laden menu has various nationalities making their mark Mexico – tacos, burritos, fajitas, but dishes including Shu Maid Peking assortment of curries and wraps simple recipes prepared and on its culinary scene. Prominent there’s also pizzas, steaks and dumplings and braised sea that are very popular with expats. Restaurants & Cafés Restaurants & Cafés presented like home cooked meals. Asian and European influences whopping burgers (GH¢35). It’s not cucumber with seafood hotpot. 11th Lane (0302 780 599). Open Try the grilled lobster or the popular in particular give plenty of that cheap, but there are some good Oxford Street, and 5th Lane (0302 9am-5pm Mon-Sat. Main courses grilled tilapia. choice – from aromatic South lunch specials. 775 496). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm GH¢8-15. Off Ring Road, near Danquah Indian sauces to freshly made 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road daily. Main courses GH¢12-30. Credit Circle, Osu (0302 768 643, 0244 crêpes. But however welcome this influx of foreign flavours, nothing (Oxford Street), behind Koala MC, V. NourishLab Smoothies Café 153 975). Open 11am-midnight comes close to outshining Ghana’s home-grown dishes and ingredients, Supermarket, Osu (0302 763 This smoothie bar in the heart of daily. Main courses GH¢10-25. devoured in abundance everywhere from fine restaurants, such as the 220054 633 3444, facebook.com/ Firefly Lounge Bar Osu is good for health-conscious fabulous Nobu-styled Santoku (see p41), to roadside shacks. Chaseelpaso). Open 11am-11.30pm International folk, or those who haven’t seen a Le Magellan Restaurant French A very popular lunchtime dish is waakye, a medley of refried beans, Mon-Thurs, Sun; 11-1am Sat, Sun. While the dim lighting and pumping piece of fruit for a couple of days. Le Magellan is a good dining-out rice, meat, fish and spicy sauce best sampled at long-established street Main courses GH¢20-35. tunes advertise it as a drinkers’ There’s a wide selection of choice, particularly in the evenings stalls such as Katawodieso (see p44) and Auntie Muni’s (see p44). hangout, Firefly Lounge Bar also has smoothies made with milk and when it seems that business More upmarket places to get some excellent traditional food are the Country Kitchen Ghanaian a comprehensive international menu yogurt. It only takes a couple of colleagues, friends and couples enjoy relaxed and quiet Asanka (see p44) and Buka (see p40). You would have thought, judging by to accompany its premium spirits. A minutes to get one and they come winding down at the end of a day. Street food can be lively. Although the level of cleanliness is reasonably its clientele of government officials, selection of tapas is a tasty and swift thick and full of goodness. Service from polite staff is well good – vendors are always washing their hands – it remains a the occasional tribal leader and even re-fuel for barflies, as is the selection Particularly good is the new selection practiced, and the menu reflects the calculated risk. What should be fine, however, is grabbing a coconut. the Reverend Jesse Jackson (whose of Middle Eastern dips (GH¢18-28), of guava and passion fruit options. fact this is one of the more upmarket They’ll chop the top off so you can drink the milk there and then, and picture in the restaurant hangs in with crisp slices of French bread for The bar also offers basic snacks: options for dining out in Accra. then they’ll open it so you can eat the meat. A coconut should cost pride of place) that Country Kitchen ladling fresh hummus, baba there are salads in take away boxes Ring Road, East Accra, near Osu’s GH¢1. Avocados are also GH¢1. Bananas are around GH¢1 for 4. is an upmarket joint. However, the ghanoush and labne. Mains include and quiches and pies. There is free Danquah Circle (0302 777 629). Another popular lunchtime dish you’ll see on the roadside is kenkey, main appeal here is hearty home steaks and Spanish classics such as New wireless access. Open noon-3pm, 6.30pm-11pm with fried fish and hot pepper sauce. Vendors will put it in a plastic bag cooking that remains true to saltimbocca. The fries are the perfect Behind Eye Emporium, Off Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat. Main for you. It costs between 50p to GH¢1. A sachet of water is 10p. Ghanaian classics. The atmosphere alliance of crisp and fluffy, and the Santoku Restaurant & Bar Japanese Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) courses GH¢12-30. Many Ghanaians have their main meal at midday, meaning the is as relaxed as the staff, but the food goat’s cheese croquettes are as (0243 939 855). Open 8.30am- Western habit of rushing out for a quick sandwich or salad is only just is freshly cooked. Fufu, banku and wonderful as they sound. As a Santoku is the best restaurant in Ghana right now. There are other 10pm daily. Mid-Range beginning to be popular through places like Little Indian Sunshine Bar jollof rice each come with a choice of sophisticated nightspot, Firefly is pretenders to the throne opening up soon, but the blend of incredible Arlecchino Gelateria Italiana (see p41), and cafés such as Deli France (see p48) and Café des Amis chicken, beef, mutton or fish, usually faultless; as a restaurant, it has some food, effortless service, and truly well-designed surroundings make Safari French Restaurant & This ice cream outlet and snack bar (see p44). Eating out in the evenings, Ghanaians tend to head to ‘red fish’. The larger grilled tilapia real strengths and sophisticated this a cut above the rest. Firstly, the food. Think Nobu, and you’re Pizzeria French & pizzas is probably the best place to get a restaurants at around 8.30pm – however, by 11.30pm most places will comes with banku, a bowl of water, flavours, but the menu could benefit just about there. In fact the team from Nobu London helped head The Livingstone Safari restaurant is decent ice cream in the city. There have closed their doors or will be turfing you out. washing up liquid and a lack of from a couple of tweaks to back up chef Mohammed Ayres with the menu, and the results are excellent. now in bespoke premises lifting its are more than 20 flavours that look cutlery. It offers a take-away and the price tag. Japanese chef Daisuke Yoshizaki creates beautiful-looking plates of status as one of Accra’s best French sumptuous in the cabinet (although delivery service. 11th Lane, Embassy Road (0302 food that deliver on the taste front too. Santoku’s signature dish is restaurants even higher. The new there’s often a few empty spaces). Bella Roma Italian Ghanaian and Nigerian specialties 2nd Ringway, Roberto Road (0302 777 818, Facebook page). Main pan-fried scallops with foie gras and orange tobiko – a stunning plate terracotta building is light and airy, The Italian owner has also added Fresh and bold Mediterranean – dishes include okra stew and eba (a 229 107). Open 7.30am-9.30pm courses GH¢20-40. Open 5pm-late filled with the decadent flavour of the ingredients, yet fresh and with a bar area and tables at specially made ice cream for flavours reign at this friendly Italian dough ball eaten with stews). Service daily. Main courses GH¢9-25. Tue-Sun. light. The prawn tempura is light, allowing the prawn flavours to spacious intervals. The menu sits diabetics as well as interesting eatery. It’s recently been expanded, is improving during busy lunches. come through, and the tuna and salmon sashimi with ginger, garlic alongside daily specials, which can flavours such as cookie and tiramisu, and diners have a choice between an 10th Lane, near the old American DeliFrance Café Frankie’s International and hot olive oil that just lightly cooks parts of the sashimi deepens include dishes such as roasted figs mango and sesame. At GH¢8 for two indoor restaurant area, outdoor Embassy (0302 782 953/024 484 Previously One More, this location is An Oxford Street institution, the depth of flavour. Add in expertly mixed cocktails, design by with goats cheese and honey scoops, it’s not as cheap as nearby patio, or lounging on the banquettes 2464, thebukarestaurant.com). Open now a new branch of the excellent Frankie’s passes its hours drawing in Hubert de Givenchy (it’s all about the details), a seductive terrace scallops in provençal sauce, onion Frankies, but better. in the bar area. Patrons devour noon-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. café and bistro DeliFrance. See p48 a steady supply of snack-seeking bar that mixes some of the most inventive drinks in Accra soup (of course), and for mains 674/2 Cantonments Road (Oxford Italian staples packed with Main courses GH¢20-30. for a full review. locals. It’s ideally placed to cater for (including the only place you can get sake), and it’s a heady and moules et frites and boudin noir de Street), opp Shell petrol station (024 combinations of smoky black olives, 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road those gotta-grab-something hedonistic combination. There’s also a private dining room that campagne. There are also pizzas 541 0403, www.arlecchinoicecream. rich cheese, tender artichokes, NEW Chase El Paso (Oxford Street), Osu, immediately moments – whether that’s a seats 18. Santoku is an innovative restaurant, especially for Ghana, from the kitchen’s wood-fired oven, com). Open 6am-midnight Mon-Sat; full-bodied passatas and cured It’s amazing there hasn’t been a adjacent to Venus. Open 9am- mid-morning ice cream, a lunchtime and we look forward to the team’s next development. as well as pasta dishes. 11.30am-midnight Sun. meats. Mains include tagliata with Mexican restaurant before now, but midnight daily. mixed grill or a post-bar burger. In a Ground Floor, Azure, Villagio Vista, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange Off Cantonments Road (Oxford parmesan and rucula (GH¢45), but seperate section is The Lounge, a (0544 311 511, www.santoku-restaurant.com). Bar & lounge open Street), opp Koh-i-Noor Indian Critics’ most people opt for the pizzas (GH¢28 on average), which are little lounge and bar serving a slightly different menu of 5pm-1am daily; restaurant 6.30am-midnight. Main courses GH¢25- 100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. restaurant (024 648 5135,
[email protected]). Open choice superb – giant bubbling discs liberally topped. For a loaded treat, continental dishes to the main restaurant. It’s a quiet place for a noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm Tue-Fri, Sun; 6pm-11pm Sat. Main courses Restaurants the Quattro Stagioni has mushrooms and artichokes aplenty, and the piquant Diavolo is a simple pleasure reasonable sandwich or chips with a beer in the afternoon, when the cold air-conditioning offers respite. Off Salem Road, near Papaye (0243 255 705, 0302 785 252). Open from 6pm daily. Main courses The Health Bar, Pippa’s Health Centre, 5th Ringway Link, Ringway Estates, (020 605 9985). Open GH¢16-35. Credit V (3.5 per cent surcharge). of salami drizzled with chili oil. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) GH¢9-20. Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; bookings Mamma Mia Italian 1 Santoku Astonishing Japanese dishes in the finest of Off Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), behind Frankies (024 7474 (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. com). Open 7am-11.30pm Island Spice only Sat&Sun. Main courses GH¢15-20. Set around an agreeably rustic courtyard some five minutes’ walk surroundings. See p41. 007). Open 6pm-late. Main courses GH¢9-20. Mon-Thur, Sun; 7am-midnight Fri, Sat. Main courses GH¢9-25. Jamaican Is there any better Top tip! Leonardo da from Oxford Street, Mamma Mia combines quality thin-crust pizzas 2 La Chaumiere Great French food. See p48. Buka Ghanaian & Nigerian Conveniently situated close to the Heritage Indian Restaurant Indian dish than a true Jamaican jerk chicken? Island Spice Hands on dishes are often eaten Vinci’s Italian In traditional restaurants, This Italian bistro specialises in cooked in a wood oven with an attractive setting, making it one of Accra’s best options for Italian food 3 Buka The best place to get a traditional meal. See p40. centre of Osu, Buka is, without question, one of the best lunch spots in the city. More often than not it has The Ghanaians are fans of Indian food, and Heritage often gets pointed to as one of the best curry houses in are purveyors of fine Jamaican food, catering for Ghana’s with the right hand. Water bowls are provided. delicious pastas, a variety of meats and a fully stocked bar. – there’s a selection of pastas. The outside area has a trattoria-like feel, with rough-hewn paving, terracotta 4 Heritage Authentic Indian food, with good service. See p41. the full tables to show for it. Set on the first floor, there’s a sense of escape from the throng, with lively the capital. The atmosphere inside is elegant and quiet, with some fabuously detailed Indian carvings sizable Jamaican population and those who love the food, such as curried goat, beef The menu is varied. Danquah Circle, Fourth Floor, Black Caesar Building (054 283 tilework and warm, simple decor. Inside dining is also available. Behind SSNIT Trust Hospital (024 music and wraparound wooden on display. The food is equally patties, as well as a good selection of 5055). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm- 435 5000). Open 6pm-10.30pm 5 The Lexington How to make bar snacks gourmet. See p36. trellises adding to the ambience. The food itself hinges largely on Little India Sunshine Salad Bar pleasing, authentic and spicy. Service is attentive, but relaxed. veggie food. Eat in (ping the bell for service!), take away or delivery. 11.30pm Wed-Mon. Main courses GH¢8-30. Tue-Fri; noon-10.30pm Sat-Sun. Main courses GH¢16-37. 40 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 41 Monsoon International meunière, red snapper and lobster, as Three upmarket eateries in one, all of which are likely to leave you W H AT ’ S ON T H E M E NU well as steaks and other well known international dishes. happily replenished. Monsoon’s Navigating the Ghanaian food 4 Kakramandu Street, Cantonments centrepiece is its swanky bar – a (0302 762 228). Main courses plush spot that wouldn’t look out of GH¢29-45. Open 11.30am-2.30pm, place in any city. The main à la carte The basics Gari foto A cassava and egg 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Credit selection offers a good choice of Aduane Food dish mixed with other ingredients AmEx, MC, V. seafood and meat options, while on Akawadu Banana Groundnut soup Spicy stew the outside terrace there’s access to Amadaa Fried plantain with meat or fish Le Must French two smaller eateries – a sushi Ampesi Plantain and yam Jollof rice Spicy rice with meat For 20 years, Le Must has been a parlour and a teppanyaki restaurant. Banku Corndough or chicken force in the upmarket eateries of Restaurants & Cafés 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford Bodie Plantain Kelewele Spicy fried plantain Accra, with diners including Jacques Street), above Osu Food Court (0302 Borodo/Panu Bread Kenkey Steamed fermented Chirac, Will Smith and Stevie 782 307). Open 6pm-late Mon-Sat. Enam Meat cornflour balls Wonder. For a while Le Must was Main courses (from á la carte menu) Gari Cassava dried or grated Klako Deep-fried plantain dough losing out to some of the newer GH¢16-35. Momone Sun-dried fish Kokonte Cassava dish high-end restaurants, but its recent Nsuomnam Fish Kontomire Cocoyam leaves refurbishment should put it back Noble House Chinese Chinese Ode Yam Kyinkyinga Beef with vegetable firmly on the business/diplomatic Noble House is one of the longest- sauce circuit. The food remains as good as serving and most popular Chinese Breakfast & snacks Omo tuo Mashed rice balls with it ever was, with its signature dish, restaurants in Accra. It is affiliated Boflot Doughnut stew or soup the Lobster Thermidor (GH¢54), still with the equally popular Heritage Ekwei bemi Boiled sweet corn Palava sauce Spinach or leaf a favourite. It’s also the place to find Indian, and both are known for their kernels sauce your Baron P de Rothschild bottles good service. Both also blend the Koko Corn or millet porridge with Red red Spicy bean stew (GH¢115), along with a fairly cuisines, so you’ll find Indian dishes milk or sugar Shito Hot pepper sauce, reasonable selection of wines at too in its telephone book-sized menu. Nuhuu Cocoyam porridge sometimes with prawn or fish more affordable prices. Also updated There’s a new branch that has Rice water Rice pudding Suya Spicy kebab in the refurbishment are the outdoor opened in Kumasi. Tatale Pounded and fried seating areas (with barbecue), and Near Ebenezer Presby Church, Salem Dishes plantain two private dining rooms seating up Road, Kukuhill (0302 785 151, Abenkwain Palm nut soup Waakye Rice and red beans, to eight and 14 respectively. There’s 0243 439035). Open noon-3pm, Fufu Pounded yam, cassava or often with meat, fish and spicy a decent quality fast food outlet next 7-11.30pm daily. Main courses from plantain sauce door too. GH¢15. 28 Orpahan Crescent, (0302 785 731, www.lemust-france.com). Main Supreme International and you are pretty much there, and KFC Fast food courses GH¢30-54. Open noon-3pm, Supreme is the lightest and airiest the food is of similar quality. The Yes, this is a KFC. But as KFCs go, 6pm-11pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, café and restaurant in Osu, but it can chicken is very juicy, the jollof rice it’s one of the more eye-catching – MC, V. lack atmosphere. This is a has a bite, and there’s a selection of largely owing to a gigantic bargain continental café that does a little bit pepper and peri-peri sauces from bucket on a pole out front that glows Mid-Range of everything. There’s a patisserie mild to steam-coming-out-of-your- well into the night. The franchise Chase International and also an ice cream counter. The ears cartoon-style. Salad, coleslaw has been a huge success and there Chase is split into three areas: an bar in the centre serves the usual and other embellishments are are now branches in the Melcom outdoor patio, an indoor restaurant array of drinks, but most visitors available for side dishes. There’s Plus building in the North Industrial and the Lounge – an upmarket choose to sit down to a menu of also a selection of chicken burgers. Area and Marina Mall (see p49). restaurant and sushi bar. The food salads, burgers, pizzas and pastas. With prices from around GH¢12 Oxford Street (0302 963 086). Open in the café area starts from 7am 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road for chicken and chips, it’s a 11am-11pm Mon-Thurs; 10am-1am with breakfast, and it’s open until (Oxford Street), Osu (0249 993 reliable and quick option. Fri-Sun. Main courses GHc10. late serving salads, sandwiches, 993). Main courses GH¢10-30. Open 5th Lane, off Cantonments burgers (GH¢18), pizzas and 7am-11.30pm daily. Road (Oxford Street), Osu Food Court Ghanaian chicken dishes. The best Zion Thai Thai opp Dynasty Restaurant (0302 939 Top tip! International Sitting directly below bets are the Lebanese platters. The lounge has a separate, and more Find fragrant Thai dishes cooked by 045). Open 9am- Taking time Monsoon, Osu Food expensive, menu with pasta dishes a talented Thai chef at this lively 11pm Mon-Sat; Service in Accra can be Court provides a more and mains including lamb little eatery. The menu offers all the 10am-8pm Sun. Main pretty slow. Make sure to family-focused and brochettes and a seafood platter. Thai classics – from spring rolls and courses GH¢10-14. go with plenty of time, less smoky alternative Alongside is a wide range of sushi chicken satay to stir fries, noodle and not to arrive to its upstairs and sashimi. soup and a selection of curries – and Blue Gate hungry! neighbour. Take your Olooti Lane, off Josiah Tongogari there are plenty of vegetarian Ghanaian pick from Galito’s Flame Road, opp Labone Coffee Shop (0302 options, including a tasty starter of This legendary local restaurant, Grilled Chicken, Pizza Inn, 778 477, www.chasefastfoods.com). tofu triangles with sweet and sour although a classic ‘chop bar’ in every Chicken Inn and Creamy Inn. Open 7am-12.30am Mon-Thur, Sun; sauce and crushed peanuts. The respect, has some of the best banku 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford 7am-2.30am Fri, Sat. Lounge sweet and silky red curry sings with and tilapia in town. Upon arrival Street) (0302 783 444). noon-11.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; coconut and aromatic basil leaves, roadside you’ll encounter a charcoal noon-12.30pm Fri, Sat. Main and a refreshing selection of tangy Thai salads offer accompaniment. grill cobbled together from recycled metal barrels. Labone & courses GH¢12-25. The praa gung in particular has a great kick, with its steamed shrimp and kaffir leaves doused in lemon Papaye Road, near to Nyaniba Estates (0302 765 151). Open from 6pm daily. Main courses GH¢9-20. Cantonments Churcheese International This restaurant and play place, by the Morning Star School, off the juice, fresh onion and chilli. Expensive Danquah Circle, is a handy stop-off Mission Street, Osu Papaye Down Chicken Republic Fast food Captain Hook’s Restaurant for families. For the children there’s a (0243 610 108, zionthairestaurant@ Rotisserie and fried chicken pieces Seafood bouncy castle and expansive games yahoo.com). Open noon-11pm are on offer as well as jollof rice Located in Cantonments near the room, plus other activities that will Tue-Sat; 4pm-11pm Sun. Main and salads. Goethe-Institut, Captain Hook’s is entertain most ages, while the courses GH¢10-20. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) Accra’s most popular seafood parents can hide in the restaurant (0302 767 268, www.chicken- restaurant for well-heeled residents. that serves Ghanaian dishes, as well Budget republic.com). Open 7am-11pm The decor is inevitably nautically as fried chicken and other items. Barcelo’s Fast food Mon-Thur; 7am-midnight Fri-Sun. themed, but tastefully so. Appetisers Healthy options include a juice bar, This branch of Accra’s favourite Main courses GH¢5-8. Other include lobster tail with smoked or a drink in the coffee shop. chicken chain also has a bakery and locations Spintex (0302 817 094); salmon and dill sauce, and snail 27 Orphan Crescent, North Labone an ice cream parlour. Think Nando’s Ring Road (0302 233 869). facon du chef. Mains include sole (0302 763525). Open call for details. 42 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 43 Headlines Hospitality African Labone Junction (0244 365 868). Café dez Amis Café The restaurant in Headlines Open from 7am daily. Main courses Everything at Café Dez Amis is Hospitality centre (there’s also a GH¢3-10. prepared from high quality function room, bedrooms and a salon ingredients. Reasonable prices and nearby) is a popular lunchtime spot. The buffet includes Ghanaian Adabraka, its central location make it a popular choice with the embassies, and when classics, as well as dishes from across West Africa such as yam, Ridge & the president moves into Golden Jubilee House soon business should plantain and fufu with a variety of stews. By night, there is a bar and nightclub called Twist (see p38). Asylum rocket. The service is casual and friendly. It’s a good place for a brunch in the breeze, a sunset Number 8, 5th Circular Road, Mid-Range supper or a long lunch with friends, Restaurants & Cafés Restaurants & Cafés Cantonments (0302 772 179, www. Afrikiko Ghanaian & pizza having meetings with colleagues or headlines.gh.com). Open 12.30-4pm This is a hard place to define. On absorbing a book by yourself. Café Mon-Fri. Buffet GH¢40. the premises is also the Thai Dez Amis offers live music, usually Island, Café dez Amis and Toros on Sundays. Labone Coffee Shop Café Tapas Bar but the Afrikiko 98 Independence Avenue (0302 782 Stick around long enough and you Restaurant is mostly based in a 937,
[email protected], become a landmark in Ghana. Since pleasant garden (despite being Facebook page). Open 6.30am-10pm opening in 1995, Labone Coffee Shop next to a busy road, it does seem Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. has been the point from which other Recommended pretty tranquil). There’s an outdoor Labone shops and restaurants base bar that also serves barbecued Lexington International their directions. This is a relaxed Nicolino’s Italian chicken, but most people come for On the former location of Champs, place, half inside and half outside on the pizzas baked in a bespoke The Lexington is a swish new a terrace (overlooking a car park), The best pizza in town? Despite stiff competition from Bella Roma wood-fired oven. On weekend ‘concept bar and restaurant’. It and is a common meeting point for a and Mamma Mia, the wood burning pizza oven at Nicolino’s and a evenings there’s frequent live specialises in (excellent) cocktails, quick beer and a snack before super tasty crust pip the other two. The set up is professional too, music, but there’s often music but it also does some fine food, moving to more upmarket the staff are efficient and courteous, but it’s the head chef blasting out at any time. including breakfasts. The dinner establishments. Humberto Dettori (who will be cooking at a new opening soon) that Liberation Road (0302 229 997). menu (from 5pm) has several salad Olooti Lane, off Josiah Tongogari has come to Ghana with real provenance – his previous posting was Open 11am-9pm Mon-Thur, Sun; and sandwich options, but the mains Road (0302 761 491). Open under two Michelin-starred chef Douglas Santi in Rome. Nicolino’s 11am-midnight Fri, Sat. Main are more impressive with dishes Branche 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; couldn’t have a better location – it’s in the pleasant grounds of the courses GH¢8-20. including the classic of British 9am-11pm Sun. Alliance Francaise (see p61), in a breezy, open-sided area. Pizzas gastropubs, such as beer battered Le Tandem Restaurant French such as a Libanese with halloumi and zaatar, or Toscana with spicy sausage arrive on an artfully rustic piece of wood, but if you’re really Asanka Restaurant Ghanaian This small restaurant has an sole fillet and seared beef fillet which has been sourced from South statues to keep you company). The menu includes Ghanaian dishes such There is also paella – including the authentic version (with chicken). Airport It’s always a good sign when restaurant staff look upbeat and happy. Le Tandem, with its amiable hungry, try the Nicolino’s burger – a beef patty enveloped in pizza crust. Soon opening is a small terrace bar with a barbecue. It’s also open for breakfast, which is Lebanese style. upmarket local feel about it. Under low bamboo ceilings and with African motifs painted on the walls, Africa – the burger is fantastic. The light bites menu is also very good – the dishes are GH¢12 each and a as jollof rice and red red, but also some Lebanese cuisine, kebabs and chicken and chips, with large pizza There are occasional live performances of flamenco and Spanish music. Residential service and slightly hidden-away Alliance Francaise, Liberation Link, Airport Residential Area behind the place has a relaxed family couple would suffice. You’ll find a to share. The breakfast buffet is Afrikiko Leisure Complex, Liberation mid-range East Cantonments location, seems to Opeibia House (0244 629 656). Open 7am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; atmosphere. The small menu is 100 mini cheese board with cornichons GH¢20. It is on the same complex as Road (020 094667, 024 288 0163, Branche International be a popular choice for politicians, noon-10.30pm Sun. per cent Ghanaian and one of the (perfect with that expertly-mixed dry the Grill restaurant, which serves www.torotapas.com). Open Branche, at the Golden Tulip hotel, is diplomats and similarly high-profile most authentic in Accra. The banku martini), and spicy chicken wings, steak in a sports bar-style setting, noon-11pm daily. Main dishes the kind of chic, understated hotel diners. The restaurant, with its and tilapia are particularly good but the small sliders are sensational but Pataase is the choice here. GH¢14-32. restaurant (or bar, lounge, call it warm red interiors, sits at the upper there’s a good selection of light meat and some fish, often eel. here, but most dishes are a decent – a juicy beef patty in a bun made in Paloma Hotel, 40 Ring Road (0302 what you will) that wouldn’t feel out end of the scale in terms of the lunches and snacks throughout the Customers queue up at a netted bar bet. For the uninitiated, the water house. Wow. We’re also pretty 228 700, www.palomahotel.com). Budget of place in any global five-star French-influenced menu. Imported day. More conventional menu items to pick from ingredients. Stringy bowls and liquid are to wash your excited about the breakfast menu Open 6.30am-10.30pm daily. Main Heavy Do Ghanaian property. There’s a full choice of options include beef with marrow include chicken and chips and noodles, hard-boiled eggs, various hands with once you have finished that has a Eggs Benedict (or courses GH¢8-20. Heavy Do chop bar is a well Ghanaian dishes, as well as a large and sautéed potatoes, confit of duck jollof rice. There are also vegetables and hunks of steamed digging in with your fingers. Florentine) and Huevos Rancheros, respected Ghanaian establishment international buffet, and from 6pm and veal escalope. sandwiches, wraps, paninis, meat tumble in the waakye (only Ring Road, next to Bus Stop plus some ‘breakfast cocktails’. The Thai Island Thai best known for its hefty portions of the à la carte selection includes the 6 Mankralo Street, East fajitas and salads. available on weekends) like an Restaurant and Bar (0302 220 930). Lexington is a very welcome option. This cosy restaurant is at the far end fufu and palm nut soup. Situated just likes of French onion soup, beef Cantonments (0302 762 959). Main Number 78/5 1st Norla ungainly salad. The hub of Main course GH¢7-20. Open 40 Ring Road Central, behind of the Afrikiko Complex, offering a off of the hectic Kwame Nkrumah tenderloin and Atlantic lobster. courses GH¢10-25. Open noon-2pm, Street, Labone (0302 the assemblage is shitor, 8am-9pm daily. Paloma Hotel (024 095 9406, www. garden bar and restaurant with Circle, Heavy Do is an often-frenzied There are also regular themed 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. 770 834). Open 7am-9pm Mon-Sat. Top tip! a peppery condiment made of chilli, dried Khana Khazana Indian thelexingtonaccra.com). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 10am-late outdoor seating. Inside, however, it’s another world. Lit only by lights lunch spot well loved by Ghanaians and foreigners alike. The wide deep nights, such as Texas BBQ on Saturdays. Food can also be taken Maquis Tante Marie African Credit cards shrimp and ginger. On In keeping with Accra’s penchant for Sat-Sun. Main courses GH¢12-30. within bamboo dividers, this bowls of spicy soup, filling fufu and around the pleasant pool outside. It’s There are two branches of Maquis Zanzibar Although many places our last visit we saw a hiding away great eateries and bars, intimate restaurant is calm, cool and steamed meat are excellent options reasonably priced for a hotel Tante Marie. The newer is in Accra International take credit cards, it’s Bentley outside. Is it Khana Khazana is literally sat Orangery Crêpes and Salad Bar quiet. Duck is the most expensive to fill yourself up. restaurant with burgers around Mall, but the original Labone branch Located in the always worth checking better than behind a petrol station. What you International item on the menu, but there’s a wide Off Kwame Nkrumah Circle (024 GH¢25 and pasta around GH¢30. Its is the most atmospheric. All the residential area of the facility is working Katawodieso? See find really is surprisingly charming. Situated on Farrar Avenue, one of range of other meats, and tofu. The 608 1545). Open from noon daily. layout makes it a good place for a seating is open-sided and the tasteful Labone, Zanzibar is a before eating. Food Fight, p18 to A thatched dining area overlooked the oldest and most charming parts food is of high quality and Main courses GH¢3-15. business dinner. bamboo furniture and bright yellow small restaurant that find out. by trees shades tables clad in green of Accra, the Orangery offers justifiably popular. Golden Tulip Hotel, Liberation Road, tablecloths add to the exotic vibe of the place. The menu is definitively African with authentic dishes specialises in dishes in the style of cooking from the region after which it is named (however, Orphan Crescent Road (no phone). Open from noon daily. Main courses GH¢3-15. and white checked table cloths, while in the adjacent open-fronted kitchen hut the Indian owners sizzle up an excellent fresh salads and freshly made soup including asparagus, pumpkin and mushroom. It’s well Afrikiko Leisure Complex, Liberation Road (0244 613 677). Open noon-10pm Mon-Sat. Main courses Dzorwulu Airport (0302 213 161, www.goldentulipaccra.com). Open 6.30am-10pm daily. Main courses predominantly from Ghana and Côte there’s also an incongruous mix of abundance of South and North known for a wide variety of sweet GH¢22-45. Choco’Pain Café GH¢21-36. d’Ivoire, such as tilapia and banku, India, French and Thai dishes). This Katawodieso Ghanaian Indian cuisine. There are some and savoury crêpes and excellent Choco’Pain is a lovely little café with nyama choma (grilled, spiced meat, is a good location for a relaxing More of a street stall, Katawodieso Chinese and Thai options too, but as array of pastas and fresh seafood. It Toros Tapas Bar Spanish pastries, sandwiches and sundaes. Holiday Inn Accra Airport usually mutton) and fish yassa eating experience in pleasant is almost legendary in Accra. It they do such justice to their native also offers home made ice cream and The tapas revolution finally hits All its cakes are freshly baked on the The Holiday Inn’s location, right by (grilled in a tangy lemon marinade). surroundings. There’s a leafy serves excellent traditional dishes, it seems a travesty to opt for freshly baked bread and rolls. Accra, and with customary Latin premises everyday – no wonder the the airport, makes it a key 5th Norla Link near Metro TV outdoor area. Ghanaian food – and the queues at anything but. For an affordable Farrar Avenue, and Nsawam Road style. It’s a lovely, if unsubtle space past few years have seen people consideration for a quick lunch or a (0302 778 914, www. Dade Street (0244 890 990). Open lunchtime attest its success. Within lunchtime fill, there is a large (0302 232 988). Open 10am-10pm (all red and black with pictures of travelling fair distances to pick up business meeting, where you’re maquistantemarie.com). Open 11am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm daily. a courtyard are bubbling pots of selection of dosas – savoury Mon-Sat. Main courses GH¢4-15. bulls on the wall), that lends itself to their breakfast. It serves crêpes and guaranteed a decent service. There 11.30am-11pm daily. Main courses Main courses GH¢25-40. banku, fufu and jollof rice. The pancakes with crispy edges and a jovial atmosphere. There’s a wide waffles, alongside more substantial are three eating options at the hotel: GH¢10-22. Other location Accra Mall speciality here, however, is waakye. spongy centres filled with the likes Pataase International range of dishes costing between lunchtime paninis. La Cabana Pool Bar & Restaurant, (0224 322 5181). Budget Walk in, take a seat if there is room, of paneer cheese and fresh onion. Set in a multilevel open courtyard, GH¢8-12, plus larger raciones from Osu Badu Street (020 9130 655, the Safari Lounge Bar and the Wiase Auntie Muni’s Ghanaian or order in the kiosk from one of Behind the ENGEN filling station, the Paloma Hotel’s restaurant is a GH¢14 and up to GH¢32 for Iberian facebook.com/pages/CHOCOPAIN/). Restaurant. The pool bar is a decent Melting Moments Café Although it’s practically a roadside waitresses and see what arrives. Kojo Thompson Road (0275834282, pleasant place for an early evening pork. Just pile them up and away Open 6am-8pm Mon-Fri; 7am-8pm spot with a menu of snacks – pizza, A pleasant café in Labone, Melting bar, Auntie Muni’s has earned a The restaurant has been at this www.khanakhazanaghana. meal once the sun has gone down. you go. The menu is classic tapas: Sat; 8am-7pm Sun. Other location chicken wings – but it’s the fish Moments has excellent pastries, formidable reputation in Accra for location for a quarter of a century getafricaonline.com). Open However, a thatched roof and palm croquetas, meatballs, chorizo in red Melcom Plus Complex, 2nd Palace specials that are the best bet. On bread and coffee. Although it’s an waakye (waa-chey), a mélange of and is known by everyone in Accra. 9am-10pm Mon-Sun. Main courses trees offer shade during the day wine, patatas bravas, octopus salad, Link Road, off Dadeban Road, North Friday nights it gets busy,. The established place for a long brunch, dark black-eyed beans and rice, with See Food Fight, p18. GH¢6-12. (there are some pretty odd life-size calamares, prawns in chili and garlic. Industrial Area (020 913 0655). Safari Bar, as well as guaranteeing a 44 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 45 ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Local flavours, Holiday Inn recipes from Head Chef Leslie Quarmyne international service Chicken/goat light soup Ingredients (Soup can be made with either W chicken or goat) hether President Obama dived in the pool technological advances you’d expect from a five-star - 500g diced goat or half a chicken, here, ate half a grilled spicy guinea fowl hotel – there’s a room for your bodyguard if you take diced with vegetables and enjoyed a fine cocktail, the presidential suite, you know, just in case. But there - 6 whole tomatoes - half a kpakpo shito (or hot pepper) we can’t be sure. But it is where the leader of the free are two areas that set the Holiday Inn apart from the - 10g ginger world chose to stay on his 2009 visit to Ghana. This is rest: service and food. Good service, as regular visitors - 10g garlic a Holiday Inn by name, but not by nature. The Holiday will know, is hard to come by in Accra (and that’s being - 2 onions Inn Accra is one of the very the best accommodation diplomatic), but at the Holiday Inn, you can expect it - 50g tomato puree options Ghana has to offer the discerning visitor. to match American standards, with an added dose of - salt - 1 garden egg (substitute with an There are many reasons for this. African charm and a very wide smile. The staff here aubergine) Its location is unbeatable – it sits within minutes of are quick, friendly and discerning. That draft beer will - fufu, banku or rice the airport, a swiftly developing area that is, whisper arrive quickly, and your meal will be there in a shot it, the centre of both business and pleasure in Accra. – they also promise a sandwich in five minutes in the Method The rooms are superb – a cut above Accra’s usual Safari Bar if you need something quick. But chances 1. Wash ginger, garlic, chilli, one of the onions and three of the tomatoes, drain, offering. They’re clean, spacious and fitted with all the are you’ll want to linger over the food. It’s goooood. place in blender, season, and blend to a paste. 2. Place the mix on the meat and marinade for 10 minutes 3. Place the meat in a pan and cook gently for 10 minutes 4. Add tomato puree cook and cook for 10 minutes, then add 500ml of water and simmer until the meat is tender 5. Dice and add the remaining three tomatoes, the diced aubergine, and the last chopped onion. Cook for 30 minutes. 6. Remove onions and tomatos and pass it through the blender, then add to soup again and bring to a simmer. Season to taste. PMB CT97 Cantonments 7. Serve with fufu/banku or rice Accra, Ghana +233 (0)302 740930 www.holidayinn.com
[email protected] Yam oto Ingredients - 1/2 piece medium yam Good food, good times and light meals designed for picking nights, the Pool Bar is buzzing – come but you may want to tuck into the grilled around the world. You’ll find international - 50ml palm oil There are three places to eat at the at on a balmy evening. On the menu, early to get a seat. mini calamari, oak smoked salmon, or classics such as a great Steak Diane, - 1 onion, chopped Holiday Inn: La Cabana Pool Bar & there’s always a seafood jambalaya, a tiger prawns in garlic, olive oil, lemon lobster and fish and chips, but the - roasted ground nuts Restaurant, the Safari Bar and Wiase steak sandwich (with a truly great Virgin The Safari Lounge Bar juice and caper butter. But to be honest, real treat is the Ghanaian food where - boiled eggs Restaurant. Each has a different vibe, and Mary tomato relish – we want the recipe), Stay in Accra long enough, and you the Lobster Newburg is our favourite: you’ll find a wider selection across one - seasoning different menu, but all have something crispy pizzas and chicken wings, the soon get to know the best bars. Take poached lobster with madeira and sherry mealtime than anywhere else in Accra. interesting and focus on quality. latter trumping those at Hooters! But the speedy service, combine it with soccer reduction, finished with cream liaison. This is especially true of the Sunday lunch Method specials board is where the chef really on the TV, live but unobtrusive music Well, that and the Chicken Ballotine offering, where you’ll find a huge array of 1. Peel yams, cut into 1/2 inch cubes La Cabana Pool Bar & has fun. Picking the fish hoicked from from the grand piano of an evening and Chasseur. Ghanaian and West African dishes. And and wash. Restaurant the Atlantic each morning, depending a top-notch food selection, and you the best thing? You can just keep going 2. Boil yam in salted water until cooked, The Holiday Inn pool is a ridiculously on what looks good, Head Chef Leslie get a busy bar and the perfect place to Wiase Restaurant back and trying all the food. If you want strain, season and mash until smooth. inviting sight at any time of day, but as the Quarmyne then decides the specials.: hold a meeting. The place means a lot Everyone loves a buffet, but there’s to try some traditional dishes – and you 3. Add palm oil. sun is setting over the Black Star of Africa, they might include grilled barracuda when you’re conducting business – we’d nothing quite like this at your usual should – this is the place to do it. May we 4. Add chopped onion and seasoning, a quick dip followed by an ice cold beer steak, grouper, or a Ghanaian favourite, trust the Holiday Inn every time. What Holiday Inn. At every mealtime, the suggest the taste bud-popping goat soup then mash again. around the pool is almost perfection. snapper. Or perhaps the astonishingly of the menu? Well, there’s a sandwich hotplates and tables groan under the (see recipe right), the spicy kelewele and 5. Serve with roasted ground nuts and The Pool Bar has its own snack menu good grilled spicy guinea fowl. On Friday in under five minutes if you’re in a rush, weight of beautifully presented food from the red red. boiled eggs. 46 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 47 sandwich in five minutes, offers Espetada which is deboned chicken some enticing food such as grilled thighs skewered with spicy calamari and Lobster Newburg. The jalapenos and a sweet-chilli sauce. Wiase Restaurant puts on an Shops 66-68, Accra Mall, Spintex impressive buffet every breakfast, Road (0244 337 825, lunch and dinner time. It’s the www.rhapsodys.co.za). Open Sunday lunch, however, that is really noon-midnight Sun-Thur; noon-2am interesting with a very wide range Fri, Sat. Main courses GH¢16-42. of traditional, and well cooked Credit V. dishes. If you want to try the best of Ghanaian cooking in one go, come Mid-Range here on a Sunday lunchtime. The Maquis Tante Marie African Restaurants & Cafés buffet is quite an experience. The Accra Mall branch is the newer Plot 19 & 20 Airport City (0302 740 of the two (the other is in Labone), 930, www.holidayinn.com). Main but serves the same food, although courses GH¢30-50. some of the prices are slightly more expensive. The menu is African, Il Cavaliere Pazzo Italian with authentic, and mostly delicious, In one of the most prestigious dishes predominantly from Ghana spots in the city, overlooking the and Côte d’Ivoire. Josie’s Cuppa Cappuccino Polo Club’s field, Il Cavaliere Pazzo Accra Mall (0224 322 5181). Open rises to the occasion. It’s also one 11.30am-11pm daily. Main courses of the most impressive buildings in Escapade Café/Bistro Square complex. And despite the GH¢10-20. Other location 5th Norla Accra, making effective use of International cheesy name, it’s a tasteful place to Link near DDB Media 1, Labone wood, both on the interior and All the food on the menu at this new relax and enjoy pizzas, pastas, or (0224 322 5181). exterior. It’s refreshingly café and bistro is prepared by the some good sandwiches. understated – the polo field is the chef using the freshest local 14 Jungle Road (0547 08921, Budget focal point. The menu is ingredients. There’s a mid-week www.ancsquare.com, Facebook page). Barcelo’s Fast food unswervingly Italian, with genuine special menu offered alongside the à Open 8am- late Mon-Sat; 11am- Specialising in chicken, this popular risottos, gnocchi and ravioli with la carte choice on Wednesdays and 10pm Sun. fast food joint was the second spinach and ricotta – and it is Thursdays. Delivery available. Barcelo’s to open in Accra. The other consistently good. The service is Roman Ridge shopping arcade (0244 La Terrasse French is in Osu. It serves all manner of among the best in city. 262 146). Open 7-11.30am, This simple, rustic eatery in East chicken and rice combinations, as Accra Polo Club, Liberation Road, noon-3pm, 6-10pm. Legon whips up a wonderful array well as burgers. Airport (0302 823 131, Facebook of authentic French crêpes – with Tetteh Quarshie and Spintex Road, page). Open 12.30-3.30pm, Josie’s Cuppa Cappuccino sweet and savoury options stuffed looking onto central courtyard (0302 7.30-11.30 Mon-Sat; 7.30-11.30 Café with all manner of fillings. Savoury 933 784). Open 7am-11pm Sun. Lounge open 3.30-7pm This café serves light lunches and combos include bacon, crème fraiche Mon-Thur; 7am-midnight Fri, Sat; Mon-Sat. Main courses GH¢18-40. brunches. Sandwiches are popular, and mushrooms, and a simple but 7am-10.30pm Sun. Main courses especially the calorific chicken, moreish egg, cheese and ham. GH¢8-16. La Chaumiere French & African cheese, bacon and avocado version. Near the MJ Grand Hotel (302 544 La Chaumiere’s sophisticated French dishes have been catering to Accra’s discerning diners for more than a Apart from sandwiches, the menu contains rice and chicken dishes, lots of salads, burgers and a breakfast 176, www.laterrasse-creperie.com). Open Tue-Sun noon-11pm. Main courses GH¢10-20. Beach decade. There’s a smattering of menu. The salads make it a favourite Expensive North African flavours for good for those who prefer a healthy The Venue International Ghanaian Village at La Palm measure – dishes such as grouper approach to their lunch. The Venue is not the easiest place Royal Beach Hotel African with harissa and mint yoghurt – but 3rd Close Ringway, off Volta to find. Unfortunate, as its This attractive thatched restaurant the mainstay is classic French Street, Off Partrice one of the best with beachside tables at the back of cuisine, from a crispy Nicoise salad to a wonderfully thick and sticky Lumba, Airport residential area (024 Top tip! restaurants in the city. Seafood is a particular La Palm Royal Hotel’s expansive grounds make a delightful place to onion soup au gratin. Lighter options 820 4441, www. Vegetarians forte, with a popular sample some of Ghana’s most include lobster tails in ginger butter. cuppacappuccino.com). Many restaurants have selection of fresh fish distinctive flavours. The buffet is For dessert it has to be creme brûlée. Open 7.30am-7pm meat-free options, and shellfish dishes, easily the best place to eat in La 215 Liberation Road, opp Mon-Sat. but you’ll need to check pretty much straight Palm Royal. Try the simple but Woolworths (0302 772 408). Open how they are from the beaches. much-loved red red (bean stew) and noon-2.30 and 7.30pm-11.30pm NEW Nicolino’s prepared. Pizzas here are also delve into a bowl of chicken and Mon-Fri; 7.30pm-11.30pm Sat. Italian particularly well done, peanut soup. There is often highlife Main courses GH¢14-35. See picture review p44. baked in the outside pizza oven. music at weekends. Adjiringanor Road, left after first Labadi Beach (0245 353 610, NEW Santoku Restaurant & Osteria Michelangelo Italian bridge, house number 3 (024 www.gbhghana.net). Open 12.30pm- Bar Japanese Situated in a converted personal 3323425, 0302 505 111, late daily. Main courses GH¢20-40. See picture review p41. home-like environment between the
[email protected]). Open Airport Residential neighbourhood 5pm-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat Labadi Beach Hotel Mid-Range and Dzorwulu, Michelangelo’s and Sun. Main courses GH¢15-35. International DeliFrance Café Restaurant can be difficult to locate. The Labadi Beach Hotel is one of DeliFrance are seemingly slowly taking over Accra – there are now branches everywhere, including in The affable owner scours markets for the freshest ingredients. House No 3, Nortei Abadio Street, Accra Mall Accra’s nicest hotels, with a reputation for smooth service. Its restaurants, although having the Marina Mall, Supreme in Osu opp Centre for Democratic Expensive undergone some changes recently, are (see p43) and next to Venus, also in Development (0302 762 792, 0302 Rhapsody’s International still good. There’s a buffet at lunch Osu. Iced cupcakes, golden pastries, 762 791). Open from 6pm daily. As part of an established South and dinner in the main restaurant crunchy baguettes and bulging Main courses GH¢10-30. African/Lebanese chain, Rhapsody’s (but the open bar overlooking the paninis are the staples at this very has the stylised decor and pool is much nicer). The à la carte European of cafés. Baguette fillings include the likes of bresaola, parmesan and olive oil. These cafés East Legon contemporary trimmings that would suggest, from flat screen sport to design-led bar stools. The menu options include some superb fish options including whole lobster at GH¢48, up to a fillet steak at GH¢52. are little air-con-fresh pockets of Mid-Range offers an array of salads, burgers, No 1 La Bypass, Labadi Beach Hotel calm all over the city. Luscious Temptation steaks, snack platters and the like. (0302 772 520, www.legacyhotels. Volta Street (302 770 233). Open This is a superior café/bar in a There is a separate dining area. One co.za). Open 7.30am-10.30pm daily. 7am-8pm Mon-Sun. pleasant courtyard in the A&C great option is Rhapsody’s Chicken Main courses GH¢20-52. 48 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Shopping centres Accra Mall Clothing boutiques, global sports brands and high-end furniture outlets populate the ground floor of Shopping Ghana’s largest shopping mall. Glamorous African-inspired fashions fill the racks of Kiki Clothing (see p52) and a branch of African fabric specialists Woodin and Vlisco have a good range of prints. Also on the ground floor are familiar brands such as Levis, Puma and Swatch. A small food court includes fried chicken outlet Barcelo’s and upmarket bar and restaurant Rhapsody’s, and kids can let off steam in a central play area with a bouncy castle. Upstairs is the territory of Silverbird (see p62), which runs a well-stocked book and music store, as well as Ghana’s only multiplex cinema showing blockbusters, Nollywood and Ghanaian films, and now a new bar Silver Lounge (see p36). Tettah Quashie and Spintex Road (0302 823 040, www.accramall.com). Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. La Maison A&C Square Fashion and design Set in Accra’s prestigious East Legon residential community, A&C Square offers a mix of shopping, dining and entertainment – plus access to banking, health clinics and other The Ghana Fashion & Design Week showcases the depth of Ghana’s services. There’s a modern health exploding fashion scene club, Total Fitness Health Club (see p69) which has a swimming pool and children’s play area, pleasant A ccra’s shopping scene has such as the oh-so-sophisticated Ambassador Hotel (see p74) is coffee shops and a good fruit and been evolving at a truly creations of Christie Brown, stacked with designer names and veg stall in the square. impressive pace in recent glamorous Brigitte Merki and exclusive boutiques. Colourful Block 232, Jungle Rd, East Legon years, and this transformation is up-and-coming Love April for a designs can also be found online (302.515055, www.ancsquare.com). largely thanks to a burgeoning series of glammed-up shows. at Afrodesiac Worldwide (http:// Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; community of world-class clothing “We aim to give Ghana’s afrodesiacworldwide.com). 1-7pm Sun. designers who’ve been tantalising fashion industry an international the city’s increasingly fashion- voice and presence that it’s not Traditional souvenirs NEW Marina Mall savvy population with bold, had before. And as the industry Shoppers in Accra can also stock The newest shopping centre in contemporary designs and glitzy develops, and as Ghana develops up on affordable, well-made Ghana is Marina Mall in the new boutiques. as a country, we hope to create souvenirs, such as the socially ever-expanding Airport City area. Nothing showcases the new opportunities for responsible offerings from There are three floors of shops, and Ghanaian fashion industry’s latest training and promotion Global Mamas (see p53), a food court on the top level. There’s leaps and bounds more clearly within the fashion and many of whose products are a welcome branch of DeliFrance, as than the runaway success of last design scene.” from women-led well as fast food outlets including year’s inaugural Ghana Fashion & Vogue cooperatives around Maquis Tante Marie (see p44), a KFC Design Week (www.ghanafashion designweek.com) – a wonderfully Designer shopping To purchase your own Italia is a Ghana. Items include bold batik clothing for and Marinas, which sells burgers and kebabs. A large balcony stylish sartorial celebration that is gearing up for a second helping personal collection of Ghanaian styles, partner for all ages and colourful jewellery made from overlooks one of the more bizarre sights in Accra, a derelict Ghana this year on 11th-13th October. browse the rails of one the first recycled beads. For Airways plane. Big names in the “GFDW launched last year with a focus to put the emerging of Accra’s increasing number of designer time larger artisan pieces there’s Wild Gecko mall include Benetton and the French franchise Façonnable. Most fashion and creative industry in boutiques. In shiny Accra Mall, Handicrafts (p54), selling the likes of the ground floor is given to a Ghana on the international map,” you’ll find glitzy shoes and of ceramics, textiles and furniture. large supermarket, one of the best said a spokesperson for the event. accessories in Jil Boutique (see High-end treats for the home for foreign goods in Accra, as well as “We had some great support from p52), as well as the fun and flirty can be found in the decidedly Compu-Ghana, a technology store the international fashion industry, designs at Kiki Clothing (see p52). luxurious selection on show at the and pharmacy (054 916 3695), and including VOGUE ITALIA coming on Over in Osu, the popular Christie Joe’s Perspective Art Boutiques in kid’s international clothing brand board as a partner for the first Brown label celebrated the the Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Chicco. Also inside is a branch of All time in African history.” opening of its first boutique last (see p54) and Labadi Beach Hotel Pure Nature (see p54), a pharmacy, The 2013 event is promising to year, filled with its statement (see p76). But for those who fancy and plenty of men’s and women’s be just as dynamic and exciting as jewellery and bold African prints a full-on, no-frills Ghanaian fashion stores. There’s a children’s the last, with internationally-based (see p52). For an all-out deluxe shopping experience, delve into play area, but the video games are designers joining celebrated shopping experience, the shopping the heady and intense frenzy that the source of most of the racket. Ghanaian-based fashion labels centre at the Mövenpick is Makola Market (see p50). This is already a popular mall. Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 49 Airport Bypass Road, Airport City, your cedi might conceivably buy, near Holiday Inn (www. hawked from floors, racks, shelves, marinamallghana.com). Open ceilings and head-perched baskets. 8am-9pm Mon-Sat; 9am-9pm Sun. Evangelical bands play on stairwells, clothes-filled alleys channel you Melcom Plus Complex down dead-ends, sea snails fill Across the three floors of this mall plastic buckets and rainbows of are dozens of concessions and peppers lie in towering heaps. Forget individual stores that somehow meld the camera, it’s best to just slip into into one. Distinct stores include Sony, the flow and enjoy it for what it is Gracefield sports store, First Choice – a colourful open-air department beauty salon and a small branch of store spread over several blocks. Vidya bookshop. The rest is Kojo Thompson Road and dominated by aisles of food, Independence Avenue. Stalls open clothing, furniture, household and approx 6am-7pm daily. domestic goods. There is also Choco’Pain for a coffee and pastries. Children can be entertained on the Books and magazines Vlisco mall’s bouncy castle. Melcom have added branches in Tema (Post Office Road, Traffic equipment and children’s toys. It’s Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie and Light Meridian, opposite Vodafone pretty cheap for most things, helped Spintex Road (244 779 577, Mayan Book Centre Tema Community 1, 026 4922 600) by the fact much of the perishables www.shoprite.co.za). Open 10am-8pm A good selection of reference books, and Kumasi (Prempeh 2nd Street, are sold in large quantities. Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. particularly from the Oxford Adum, 322 045 578). A recent Plot C11, Accra Mall, Tetteh University Press. There’s also a Shopping addition to the group is Melcom Quarshie and Spintex Road (021 Woolworth’s collection of classic novels. Travel and Tours Ltd. It can arrange 740 000, www.game.co.za). Open Woolworth’s is Ghana’s answer to 4 Bamako Road, East Legon (0302 tour packages to any destination. 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; Marks and Spencer. Like the British 501 599). Open 9am-5pm Mon-Fri. Contact the tour company at Melcom 11am-7pm Sun. store, the South African-owned Plus, Kaneshie (Otublohum Street, Woolworth’s focuses on quality Silverbird North Industrial Area, PO Box GP56, Koala Shopping Centre clothes (including a good children’s Silverbird remains one of the city’s 0302 252 984, 024 907636, travels@ Koala is a large supermarket, section) and homewares. This is the best music and magazine stores – melcomgroup.com). popular with expats thanks to its place to pick up a last-minute slacks there’s also a reasonable selection of 2nd Palace Link Road, off Dadeban range of international goods and and shirt for golf or a reasonably books relating to Ghana, including Road, North Industrial Area (0302 handy Osu location – there is a car priced suit and shoes. The main many self-published titles. 221 784, www.melcomgroup.com). park outside. It also offers you basic attraction for coming, however, is the Bestsellers and business books make Open 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am- foodstuffs, bakery, glassware, linens, selection of international foods and up much of the other shelves. It has 3.30pm Sat. cookware, electronics and lots more. wines, including good muesli, frozen the biggest assortment of There’s a new branch in Airport foods, teas and hard-to-find soya and international music releases as well Supermarkets Residential, off Volta Road Danquah Circle, Osu (0302 765 665, www.koalashop.com.gh). Open rice milk. Horizon Plaza, 60 Liberation Road, Woolworths Building, Airport as a great selection of highlife, hiplife and other African music. DVDs make up an increasing Game Department Store 8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Residential (024 913 8568). Open amount of shelf space, as does the Americans have compared this place Sun. Credit MC, V. 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm. machinery to play them. Magazines to Target. There’s no clothing but it’s Other location High Street, near City such as the Economist, Time and a very comprehensive department Maxmart 37 Car Park, Central Accra Newsweek are in the store on the store with just about everything else, All manner of modern luxuries – (0302 679 890). Credit MC, V. same day as the rest of the world. from wines to flatscreen TVs, plus from global groceries to electrical Accra Mall, Tettah Quashie and household appliances, home gym goods – can be found at this three-storey supermarket. A good Markets Spintex Rd (0302 823 040, www.silverbirdghana.com). Open Critic’s choice bakery and a large deli counter filled with cold meats and cheeses sit to Kaneshie Market 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; 1am-9pm Sun. Credit V. Accra’s best the side of the downstairs food aisles, alongside stands generously Kaneshie Market is on the road out west of Accra. It’s very much like Sy Tris shopping stacked with slabs of well-known chocolate brands. On the first floor there’s perfume, watches, jewellery, Makola Market – a sprawling chaos of stalls, shops and street vendors. Everything you could possibly This airy bookshop overlooking Oxford Street claims to be able to procure any book from anywhere in 1 Tebazile Unique jewellery with an A-list following, now in a new Osu location. See p53. phones, TVs and a little coffee shop, and on the second is a small selection of bedding, glassware, imagine can be bought here. It’s also an important transport hub with tro tro and regional buses picking up the world so long as it is in print. The in-store collection is pretty sizable as it is though, with its lines candles and picture frames. Also at and dropping off passengers. of bookcases offering popular 2 La Maison A carefully-curated selection of homeware, art and furniture is a lovely, airy space in Osu. Maxmart East Legon (A&C Mall, 0302 518 881). 37 Liberation Road, However, if you wanted to see a market for the experience (and it really is an fiction, children’s books, classic literature and teen novels – as well as indulging the Ghanaian affection See p54. opposite Golden Tulip Hotel (302 783 750, Top tip! experience), Makola Market is more for self-motivating how-to-get-filthy- rich-and-make-your-neighbour- 3 Woodin Gorgeous African fabrics available by the yard or in ready-made garments. Make sure to www.maxmartghana. com). Open 8.30am- 8.30pm Mon-Sat, Fabrics Makola Market and the Arts Centre can accessible. Graphic Road and Ring Road West. Open proper-jealous books. You’ll find the latest blockbuster and that copy of Marie Claire or Esquire you’ve been pick up a souvenir of this cloth. See 11.30am-8.30pm Sun. be great places to pick approx 6am-7pm daily. quietly pining for. Pull up a chair at p53. up lively African one by floor-to-ceiling windows for Shoprite fabrics. Makola Market views of the city below. There are 4 Marina Mall The latest addition to Accra’s malls has attracted more international brands to the The Shoprite Group of Companies, Africa’s largest food retailer, operates in the Accra Mall. The loosely defined borders of Makola Market enclose what might be seen as Accra’s most sometimes comedy nights on here. MarkCofie House, Oxford Street (0277 300 800, www.sytris.net). country. See p49. There’s a wide selection of foods, dynamic commercial hub. It’s Open 9am-9pm Mon-Thur; including imported meats from certainly one of the most 9am-12am Fri; 9am-9pm Sat. 5 Christie Brown Sophisticated clothing and accessories fuse bold African prints with high-end South Africa. There’s also a deli counter, a reasonable selection of wines and household goods. Where entertaining. Hot, noisy and insistent, it’s an initially bewildering sprawl of kitchenware, jewellery, Vidya’s Bookstore Vidya’s Bookstore is probably the design. See p52. to look for those hard-to-find items. textiles, shoes and anything else best bookshop in Accra if you just 50 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 want to pop in and find something www.facebook.com/ReneeQstyle) Woodin influence, with names such as wines. There’s a good selection of South Africa. Products range from interesting. There’s an excellent continue to flow in and purchases One of four stores in Accra, this Versace, Moschino and Roberto international spirits and beers. prime beef and deli meats to selection of travel books, novels, can be shipped worldwide (we original Woodin store is hugely Cavalli among the most prominent. 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road free-range chicken, lamb and pork. non-fiction and international recently saw her clothing on the popular and forever filled with Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie and (Oxford Street), opp side of Koala If you’re having a barbecue, this is magazines, and some good books streets of Toronto). The shop also shoppers buying from its Spintex Road (0248 557817). Open Supermarket (0302 774 961). Open where to come. Also available at the about Ghana. There are also books sells her jewellery accessories – kaleidoscopic range of fabrics. 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit V. 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; 1-8pm Sun. shop are imported wines, condiments for all ages of children. There’s a freshwater pearls, crystals, Dominated by bold African wax and international food brands. branch at the Melcom Plus Complex. contemporary or traditional beads prints, Woodin is highly regarded by Hakim Jewellery Jewelart Chocolate Avenue Stellar Foods also have a branch in 18th Lane, off Oxford Street, next to and custom-made couture pieces. She professional fashion designers and Tucked at the back of a white There’s plenty of the dark sweet Takoradi (0312 195 435) and an Ivory Coast Embassay, Osu (0302 is also a talented seamstresses. While the fabrics building on Oxford Street, stuff at this delightful outlet in Tema opening soon. 781 005, www.vidyabookstore.com). make-up artist. dominate this branch, there is also a Jewelart could easily go chocolatiers. The 5 Agbaamo Link, Airport Residential Open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat. Trade Fair Road, opp Kpogas Furniture (0302 777 926, wide selection of clothes for men, women and children that are cut unnoticed. And for anyone wishing to Top tip! chocolate’s all from Ghana. A huge (0302 961 907, stellar.foods@ stellar-africa.com, www.stellar-africa. Fashion www.reneeq.com). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. from the cloth. The branch in Accra Mall is more focused on simply designed clothes, but they stock pick up a unique piece of handcrafted silver or gold jewellery, that Haggling Bargaining is expected in the markets and selection is on offer, although it’s not all edible – there is even com). Open 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat. Billabong The international surfwear brand, Kiki Clothing Royal Dennis This fashion designer’s most fabric too. A new store has also opened at the Mövenpick. would be a shame. In the back room you’ll on the streets. Have a price in mind and a wide range of chocolate-based Traditional originally from Australia, is now expanding through Africa. The emphasis is on T-shirts, shorts H&M and Zara have done in Europe. quality and go beyond a simple logo interesting designs are based on Ghanaian kente cloth. His jackets, which fit together like a patchwork, Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), by Barclays (www.woodinfashion. com). Open 8am-7pm Mon-Fri; find Georgette, a Lebanese lady who started the business with her be firm. cosmetics. 75 North Ridge, opposite the Ghana Broadcasting crafts and swimwear for men and light This Osu shop stocks a lively on the chest, but it’s her own designs are particularly attractive, but there 9am-7pm Sat, Sun. late husband, and still mans House (0242 557 766). AACD African Market summer tops, dresses and selection for a woman’s closet; from that you come for. are lots of other innovative designs, Other locations Accra Mall (0302 several tables laden with crafted Call for details. After the chaos of the Arts Centre, beachwear for women. dresses for day and night to all the Accra Mall, Shop G39a, Tetteh many of them leaning towards the 823 066), A&C Mall. silver and gold pieces, many this shop in Osu is a bit of a relief. Horizon Plaza, 60 Liberation Rd., basics, as well as accessories such as Quarshie (020 817 4362, party end of the spectrum. sporting African motifs. This little Don Emilio Much of the same items can be Shopping Shopping Woolworths Building, Airport sunglasses, bags and belts. www.kikiclothing.com). Opp Presbyterian Church, Adabraka Vlisco backroom is a far cry from a glossy, There are two branches of this found in the many rooms of this Residential (0302 764 974). Open 1st Ringway Estates, opp. Alexander (0244 226 767, Facebook Page, Dutch-owned Vlisco was established well-lit jewellery store, but there are purveyor of wine, directly opposite large building, but the prices are 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Plaza Hotel, Osu (0206 123 680, Kwesi Nti www.royaldennisdesigns.com). Open in 1846, and has since spread its some really beautiful pieces, and each other. However, from Oxford fixed. All the usual Ghanaian Sun. Credit V. www.eleanorscloset.com, facebook. Kwesi Nti is the Prada or Gucci of 8am-7pm Mon-Sat. colourful Dutch wax fabric designs everything is priced by weight and Street, the one on the right is by far knick-knacks can be browsed, com/pages/Eleanors-Closet). Open Accra, with his muted colours in across the world. Like Woodin they crafted by three silversmiths in the the bigger. There is a wide choice of alongside some older items, textiles Christie Brown 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. linen and silks with subtle Stellar Deluxe sell clothing and bags, but it’s really workshop just next door. You may wines from across the globe. and some pretty jewellery from While the Christie Brown label has borderings and edges in a range of Another great addition to the all about the fabrics. And they tend even be offered a Lebanese coffee as Alongside the wines is a superb recycled beads. been exciting fashion folk for a House of Damaris fabrics and materials. He also Mövenpick’s already pretty good to be louder and more colourful than Georgette shows off her photo of selection of international spirits, Abebresem Street (0302 778 105, while, it celebrated the official The collection in House of Damaris designs a range footwear. He is quite retail scene is Stellar Deluxe, a very Woodin’s more muted offerings. Of when President Clinton visited the including single malt whiskeys,
[email protected]). launch of its first boutique in Accra is traditionally African, but with rightly regarded as one of Accra’s high-end outlet from the South the two stores, the Accra Mall is the shop. Jewelart also has a jewellery vodkas and gins. Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Credit in February 2012. This high-design superb embroideries. The store sells most sought-after designers. African company. The store on the flagship store, but there’s a good cleaning service, and will make 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road MC, V. store is a sophisticated shopping both menswear and womenswear 25 Abebrese Street, Osu (024 437 upstairs gallery is an intimate venue selection in the Mövenpick store too. something up to a desired design. (Oxford Street), opp side of Koala venue where ladies with an eye for and garments are brightly coloured 8771,
[email protected]). for trying on a pair of the latest Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie (www. Oxford Street (0245001414). Supermarket (0302 773 366, Arts Centre Market (Centre for the stylish things in life can browse and made from top quality African Jimmy Choo styles. Need a statement vlisco.com). Open 8.30am-8.30pm Open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm;
[email protected]). Open National Culture) premium clothing and accessories. print fabrics. MKO.GH handbag from Gucci or Dolce and Mon-Sat; noon-8.30 Sun. 10am-4pm Sat. 8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-8 Sun. This is a popular location for tourists Christie Brown specialises in 551/3 Asafoatse Nettey Road, After working in the swanky shops Gabbana? This is the place. And if wanting a one-stop-shop for arts and incorporating African prints into wearable high-street trends. Think between GPO Wato Roundabout and Palladium (0302 664 129). Open of London’s Mayfair and Bond Street, Mawuli Kofi Okudzeto you want to make a splash in the fabulous Mövenpick pool, they have Fashion Tebazile Elizabeth Dankoro specialises in S. Salis Wines and Chocolate Pick up a box of homemade crafts. The stalls are crammed full of textiles, carvings, bags, musical statement jewellery, business chic and cocktail elegance. Since the brand was launched in 2008 the label 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8am-1pm Sat. Credit MC, V. returned to Ghana to open up his own store with an African angle. Taking inspiration from Ethiopia, swimwear covered too. Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel, Independence Avenue, Ridge (054 accessories beautiful statement jewellery pieces, no matter what your budget. That Halle Berry and Cameron Diaz are flavoured Ghanaian chocolates at this tiny store on a side road off Oxford Street. Boxes of pre- instruments, clothing and jewellery. The stalls continue through the main hangar, and into an outdoor market has appeared on international Jil Boutique Sudan, Ghana, Mali and the Songhai 4337 433, www.stellar-africa.com). Amanda’s Jewellery fans probably tells you all you need prepared flavours (the ginger is which holds the more interesting runways and been stocked in This ‘lifestyle boutique’ has an Empire, his clothes are gaining a hot Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat; These lovely handcrafted gold and to know. The Tebi brand is funky, popular), start at six pieces for treasures such as metal ornaments, boutiques in both Africa and abroad. abundance of colourful African-print reputation. Stevie Wonder and Don 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, silver traditional designs are chunky and colourful, but there are GH¢15, or order any flavour that drums, wood furnishing, antiques Ist Lane, Osu (0244 418 477, dresses as well as a nice selection of King happen to be fans. MC, V. showcased at the Novotel Hotel. also more refined ranges available. takes your fancy – from martini to and leather goods. There is less www.christiebrownonline.com). Open stylish Italian shoes and sparkly 2nd Ridge Link, Tabon Street, near Novotel, Kojo Thompson Road and 6th Street, off Oxford Street, Osu Irish cream. For extra indulgence, hassle at the back of the market. All 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am- accessories. The shop offers Ecobank Development Centre, North TM Lewin Castle Road, Adabraka (0302 220 (0302 919 458, www.tebazile.com). they also have a selection of prices are negotiable. 2.30pm Sat. kaleidoscopic racks of individually Ridge (0302 974 166, www.mkogh. Selling smart clothes for smart guys, 803). Open 10am-5pm Mon-Fri; champagne, wine and spirits. 28th February Rd, near Kwame Dreams by Nana Self-billed as selling ‘modern designed long dresses, many adorned with stones. There are accessories such as necklaces with com). Open 8am-8pm daily. Puma the London-based brand TM Lewin is a men’s fashion shop along the lines of Gap with well-designed 10am-2pm Sat. Bags by Bernice & More Food and drink Miami Street (also called Anumansah Street) (0277592017). Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm. Nkrumah Monument. Open 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat; some stalls open Saturdays. clothing with the African touch’, matching brooches and bracelets. Puma make the shirts of the Black off-the-shelf suits and accessories Bernice Ot-Ankra began making her Cave of Marina Dreams does pretty much just that, Shoes by Italian designer Silvana are Stars – Ghana’s national football such as cufflinks and colourful retro own bags in 2002 and such was their Next door to Don Emilio (right), the Stellar Catering Aid to Artisans Ghana and does it well. All the clothes are also stocked. team. While you’ll see the jerseys all ties, to more casual polo shirts. popularity that she eventually Cave of Marina offers more budget At Stellar Foods customers can find The main branch of Aid to Artisans designed by Swedish owner Nanna 6th Lane, off Cantonments Road over Accra, mostly by the side of the Shop G38, Accra Mall ,Tetteh opened her own shop. All the bags options, but it still has a reasonable a variety of quality meat cuts and a Ghana is within the Artists Alliance Nilson – if you make a prior (Oxford Street) Osu (0244 436 road, this is where to pick up the Quarshie (0302 823 106, www. and accessories are unique using selection of higher-end international wide range of imported meats from Gallery. Set up to help local artisans appointment, garments can be 9781, www.jilboutique.com). Open original. There’s also the usual array accramall.com). Open 10am-8pm only Ghanaian handmade fabrics. create high-quality crafts and sell custom-made – and her carefully 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. of trainers and sports clothing. Mon-Sat; 1pm-7pm Sun. Credit V. The range also includes tablecloths, them at a fair price, this NGO has a presented stock ranges from the Other location Shop G57, Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie and place mats, scarves, skirts and shirts. wide range of objects for sale. These traditional to the outré. There’s also a Accra Mall. Spintex Road (0244 366 205). Open Viva Boutique Number 85, 4th Ring Way Estate, include furniture, jewellery, bags, notable array of hand-finished 10am-10pm Mon-Fri; Viva has been supplying high-end Osu (244 504 462, bagsbybernice@ wooden kitchen items and Kente jewellery pieces for sale. Kiki Clothing noon-7pm Sat. clothes and accessories to the hotmail.com, Facebook page). cloth, both in contemporary and 3rd Street, Osu, opposite the old Run by the delightful Titi Ademola, label-conscious urbanites of Accra traditional styles. Items are also for American Embassy (024 403 3664). this boutique sells dresses, Renée Q for more than two decades. There’s Caliente sale in Elmina Castle, Kakum Open 11.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; traditional kaftans, bags and shoes. Having gone from the corporate good reason for the boutique’s Aimed squarely at the high-end National Park shop and in the Centre 11.30am-4.40pm Sat. She has demonstrated her prowess world to one of cutting edge fashion, continued success, primarily in the buyer, Caliente opened in September for National Culture in Kumasi. on the international stage with bold Renée Q Boateng has expanded from form of the broad selection of haute 2009 showcasing a range of the Artists Alliance Gallery, Omanye Eleanor’s Closet yet wearable designs that sculpt the back of her car to a boutique by couture designs it incorporates. The world’s most prestigious goods. House, Accra-Tema Beach Road, The simple idea behind Eleanor’s traditional African designs into the Trade Fair. Renée’s clothing line top floor has an extensive range of From the moment you step in, there’s Labadi (0302 771 375, Closet is to provide affordable confident contemporary styles. She quickly caught our attention, in shoes and bags from the likes of an appealingly moody vibe – the www.artistsallianz.com). Open quality clothing in Ghana (and soon takes much of her inspiration from particular her bespoke T-shirts. The D&G to coo over. There’s also a central floor is of tempered iron, 8am-5pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. elsewhere in Africa), something that the amazing array of fabrics shirts can be custom made – choose small menswear section. Viva has a dark-wood cabinets ring the room has actually been hard to find. Most available in Makola Market. There is your colour and ruffle and she’ll put new branch in Marina Mall. and metal flames lick the walls. The Global Mamas of the clothing carries the Eleanor’s a good selection of children’s clothes it together. For now the RenéeQ label 809 11th Lane, Osu (0302 776 emphasis is on watches, fashion This wonderful store is run by the Closet label, and it’s hoped it will too, with colourful batik designs. is exclusively in Accra, however 629). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; accoutrements and cigar accessories, NGO Women in Progress (see www. Eleanor’s Closet continue its growth in the same way Kiki-branded T-shirts are good internet orders (www.reneeq.com, 10am-5pm Sat. Credit MC, V. and there’s a strong Italian designer womeninprogress.org for more 52 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 53 details). Everthing here is fairly Modern works of art incorporating traded and made in Ghana, mostly the rich cultural influences of West by women. Anything the creative Africa are created, customised and women in co-operatives around commissioned by Kukua’s clients. A Ghana can come up with is brought key range is her elegant metal here. There are tote bags made flowing sculptures, partly polished, from old flour sacks, home partly left to gather the natural decoration items, even body butter colours of metal. Beautiful. This is and soaps made from shea. There the place for a classy souvenir. are clothes for men, women and Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel, children of all ages. Most garments Independence Avenue, Ridge (0204 use colourful batik designs, tie-dye 321390). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sun. or prints. Other location Labadi Beach Hotel. 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road Open 8.30am-9pm Mon, Tue, Thur, (Oxford Street), behind Koala Fri; 10am-8pm Wed; 8.30am-7pm Supermarket, Osu (0244 530 467, Sat; noon-6pm Sun(0204 311 126). www.globalmamas.org). Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 1-8pm Sun. Jungle Flower Jungle Flower is the most innovative Sun Trade Recommended floral arranger in Accra. It can work Set up in 1996 by the Hungarian- on arrangements in properties and born artist Kati Torda Dagadu, who La Maison deliver, but you can also pick up regularly has bead exhibitions in flowers in its shop. Accra, Sun Trade has a large A charmingly edited selection of home accessories, furnishings, art Roman Ridge Arcade, No9 Sir Arku selection of necklaces, bracelets and and decorative items can be found inside this cool and airy space, Korsah Road (0302 784 252, Shopping earrings made of bronze, coconut curated by Nada Moukarzel. You’ll find chunky sofas, gilded mirrors,
[email protected]). Open shell, bull horn and other materials. reclaimed leather chairs, eye-catching artwork and some fabulous 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat. Kati also gives lessons to individuals African-themed ornaments (some by local artists), all wonderful to and groups in creating jewellery out browse. Over 40 brands are on offer at La Maison, with highlights La Maison of beads. including architecturally designed tulip vases, hand-blown See review left. C522/3 Mango Tree Aveenue, chandeliers from Damascus, and china tea sets. There’s also a Annexe, 6th Street, Osu (030 278 Asylum Down (0302 235 982, selection of jewellery and fragrances. It’s an eclectic collection, but 1074, www.lamaisonghana.com). www.suntradebeads.com). Open is a successful combination, and the building itself, one of the most Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Other 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat. original in Accra, makes it a worthwhile destination. There’s a new location Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie branch in Accra Mall. Keep an eye out for exhibitions too, especially and Spintex Road (0302 823043). Trashy Bags if Ghanaian artists are involved. A remarkable success story, Trashy Orca Bags was set up in 2008 as a means Orca is a department-like store that of recycling and reusing the endless Behind Gulf House, Okponglo (0302 manner of design-led objects from has some of the best furniture in the plastic water and yoghurt wrappers 508 500, www.wild-gecko.com). Open trinkets to wall hangings, from country, whether for the home or the deposited on the streets of Accra – 10am-5pm Tue-Sat. furniture to a rather marvellous office. There are good quality soft they have since collected more than fridge painted in the colours of the furnishings and decorations, 20 million plastic sachets. The refuse is collected, washed and treated, Design Ghanaian flag. Much of the designs you’ll have seen before (waving kitchenware and toys. 4 Graphic Road, Toku House (0302 before being stitched together to form bags and accessories. It and home Chinese cats and Julian Opie, erm, prints), especially from the ‘kitsch’ 220 782, www.orcatendances.com). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; employs a full-time staff of around 60, as well as paying a legion of litter-pickers for their efforts. Given accessories thing that was happening a few years ago, but there are still some excellent pieces among the rest. We’d 1-6pm Sun. WaterComfort the nature of high-sugar food Absolute Furnishings like to see more African designs, but WaterComfort has supplied high-end packaging, the products themselves Absolute Furnishings offers for an interesting gift or to deck out bathroom products to hotels tend to be extremely colourful, and high-quality furniture for homes and your new place it’s a good place to including Labadi Beach, the new the range includes everything from offices, hotels and schools in start. There’s a much bigger Mövenpick, African Regent and the shoulder bags and backpacks to rain materials that include wood, showroom behind the mall for Villagio complex. It also provides macs and briefcases. They have just wrought iron, rattan and cane. kitchens, and large furniture. designs and products for residential started using old, large canvas Absolute Furnishings also offers a Store G39, Accra Mall, Tetteh properties. It stocks Schell, Missel banners to produce bags reminiscent carpentry and upholstery service. Quarshie (0302 823 322, www. Schwab, Kaldewei and Philippe of Freitag bags. There’s a good stand YMCA building, by Accra psychiatric casatrasacco.com). Open 10am- Starck designed products for Duravit at the African Regent too. hospital, Asylum Down (0244 320 7.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-7.30pm Sun. and Hansgrohe. There’s now a C 8 Dzorwulu Road, Dzorwulu (054 067). Open 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; by second large showroom. 434 9857, www.trashybags.com). appointment on weekends. Hall Interior Design 4 Saflo Link, Abelenkpe (0302 763 Open 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat If you’re looking to upgrade the 592, 0265 650 462, info@water (workshop Mon-Fri). Art Deco inside look of your home, Hall comfortghana.com, www.water Within the same complex as the Interior Design offers bespoke comfortghana.com). Open 8am- Wild Gecko Handicrafts Orangery crêperie in the Adabraka fittings for upmarket interior design 5.30pm Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat. This multi-faceted workshop-cum- neighbourhood, is this remarkable for kitchens, bathrooms and offices. Other location Yaa Asantewaa art-shop emporium is foremost a furniture shop. The workers at Art They use well-known European House, Roman Ridge Shopping workshop employing artisans for the Deco make custom furniture to a materials and fittings in their work. Arcade, Shop no. 203 (0302 763 production of characteristically high standard. For 15 years they On Kwame Inkrumah motorway, 900). Open 8.30am-5.30pm Ghanaian emblematic Adinkra have mixed Scandinavian after Abeka Lapaz and Kata Hotel Mon-Fri. collectables, beautifully finished functionality and solidity and fused (0302 410 151, wooden furniture, ceramics, bespoke textiles and jewellery wrought of it with African accessories. Farrar Avenue, and Nsawam Road www.hallinteriordesign.com). Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Health and silver and bull horn. It is brimming with handmade art objects, collectables, homewares, furniture, (0302 232 988, artdeco275@yahoo. com). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Joe’s Perspective Art Boutique This luxury art boutique set up by beauty handbags, musical instruments, and Casa Trasacco Kukua Ampah has recently opened a All Pure Nature other design products. Although A new opening in Accra Mall is this branch at the new Mövenpick Everything here is made in Ghana, Wild Gecko sources from across distinctive interior design shop – Ambassador Hotel. Many of the including body products that are Africa, many of the items are from there are two other branches, in Italy. elegant and creative pieces here are well-known to locals such as shea humanitarian projects in Ghana. It’s a large space packed with all bespoke and adapted by Kukua. butter and black soap. The shop also 54 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 stocks a range of soaps, candles, aromatherapy, massage and burning oils, bath salts with scents ranging Music from lemongrass to jasmine, as well Kingy Drums as oil burners. For GH¢10 customers An array of drums and percussion can get a 15-minute head and neck, instruments fill this shop on Oxford shoulders, back and arms massage. Street. Take a turn on Djembe drum, There’s a new branch at Marina Kpanlogo drum, maracas, xylophone Mall, Airport Bypass Road, Airport and bells. The owner Mensah also City, near Holiday Inn. runs popular drumming workshops 10th Lane Ringway East, Osu (green for both individuals and groups, plus building almost opposite Citizen Kofi) other music workshops. (0302 786 487, Oxford Street (0275 081 462, www.allpurenature.com). Open www.kingymensah.com). 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Open 8am-9pm daily. Allure Spa in the City It might not look like much from the Electronic outside, but once you enter through the inconspicuous front door here and give in to the gods – or devils – goods of vanity you may never want Recommended Apple iShop to leave. The pampering possibilities Ghana’s only Apple store has a ‘café’ are endless: skin therapies, Stellar Sounds and terminals offering broadband manicures, pedicures and massages. access (GH¢ 1.25 for 30 minutes). Shopping Ring Road East, Effiansaba House, Need something to blow you away sonically? Stellar Sounds is the The store also runs a repair service near Labone Junction (0302 767 place. It’s a purveyor of very fine audio gear that helps music sound for poorly Apple products. 000, www.allureghana.com). Open as crisp as it was recorded, but the speakers, sound systems, TVs Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie (0302 8am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2pm-7pm Sun. and headphones look incredible too. There are also laptop speakers, 823282) Open 9.30am-8pm docking stations, projectors and screens, and Blu-ray players. The Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Gift Shop shop sells equipment from Bowers & Wilkins and Marantz among Selling gifts such as Peggy Sage other top brands. Bang & Olufsen make up and cosmetics, hair Ground Floor, Emporium Shopping Centre, Mövenpick Ambassador This Bang & Olufsen showroom accessories and false eyelashes, the Hotel, Independence Avenue, Ridge (0302 971 621, stellar.sounds@ has all the top-end equipment you shop can also do a mani or pedi for stellar-africa.com, www.stellar-africa.com). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; would expect. just GHC20. For kids: hair 11am-6pm Sat; 11am-4pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. F893/2 Ring Road East, Danquah- accessories and bags. Circle, Osu (0302 762 654, Ground Floor, Marina Mall, Airport www.bang-olufsen.com). Bypass Road, Airport City, near Holiday Inn (www.marinamallghana. com). Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 5th Ringway Link, Ringway Estate (0302 224 488, www.pippasfitness. com). Open 10am-9.pm Mon, Tue, Pharmacies Somovision This large chain of stores sells all 9am-9pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Thurs, Fri; 10am-6pm Wed; 37 Military Hospital manner of electronic goods, 9am-2pm Sat. Open 24 hours a day, this well- particularly goods from LG. Find Lajen Beauty Shop stocked pharmacy is linked to the TVs, washing machines, microwaves This upmarket male and female SO Aesthetic Military Hospital. and air conditioning units. salon is one of the nicest looking in A beauty salon which offers Liberation Road near Akuafo Circle Northern Industrial Area (0302 245 Accra. Separated by a wall of glass make-up consultation, eyebrow and 37 Station (0302 776 111). 326); Osu Oxford Street (0302 tiles, the boys can have a cut by shaping, eyelash application and Open 24 hours daily. 771907); Spintex Rana Plaza (0302 professional barbers while the girls facials. It stocks the natural SO 811270); Trade Fair (0206 can have their nails done. Massages Aesthetic products, which include Adepa Pharmacy 713338). and waxing are in private rooms. foundation, powder, lip gloss and 7 Patrice Labumba Road, Airport 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road lip stick, blush and anything else Residential Area (0302 765 486). Sony Centre (Oxford Street), behind Koala beauty centric. Owner and stylist Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; This small Sony outlet offers reliable Supermarket, Osu (0302 777 837, Sacha Bruce-Adjetey runs a 2pm-9pm Sun. electrical goods on Oxford Street. www.facebook.com/lajensalon). Open tight ship. There’s another branch at the 8.30am-6pm. Viva Court, 809, 11th Lane, Osu, Bedita Pharmacy Melcom Plus Complex. next to the old American embassy Blohum Road, adjacent to the SID Oxford Street (0302 765 094, Marie Noelle’s Salon and Spa (0243 201 803, www.soaestheticgh. Theatre Dzorwulu (0302 778 375). www.mysonycentre.com). Open This full-service salon and spa in com). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; Open 8.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri 9am-3pm Sat. Osu is the premier destination for 10am-2pm Sat. 9.30am-10pm Sat. fast, economical beauty services. Not Stellar Sounds only is the decor chic, but ten full spa-pedicure stations flank the far Opticians Bernswett Pharmacy North Labone Road, near Morning See review left. wall and eight manicure stations take up half of the floor. There are Eye Emporium Optician Star School, Labone (0302 776 794). Open Mon-Sat 8am-10pm; Visitors’ also tattoo and piercing services. House F81/1, Kuku Hill, Osu (0302 764 154, www.marienoellespa.com). Professional opticians with modern equipment to test all eye problems. Designer frames, lenses and 10am-8pm Sun. Life Health Care services sunglasses can all be ordered here. There’s a pharmacy and also a Amazing-U Pippa’s Health Centre 39 Cantonments Rd (Oxford Street), medical and dental centre on the Amazing-U is an image management The Pippa’s Health Centre in above Woolworths (024 339 3655). premises. Services include travel and coaching company offering help Ringway Estate centre has a beauty Open 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, health, psychological services and for individuals, businesses and at spa with manicures, pedicures and 9am-1pm Sat. cosmetic dentistry. This experienced, events. Services include colour massages, among other treatments. tidy pharmacy should probably be analysis, image consulting, Among the wide range of other Innes Eye & Vision one of the first calls for any NLP coaching and event solutions. services are dance and Taekwondo Care Centre problems and international It’s also a branding, business lessons, personal training, and of Find a wide selection of frames and medicines. etiquette, communication and course, top-end fitness equipment. all the modern equipment. Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie (0302 event consultancy. Ghana’s paralympic athletes also A&C Shopping Mall, East Legon 823 064, lifehealthcare.com.gh). (026 5502977, www.amazing-u.net, train at this well-equipped and (0302 519 384). Open 9am-6pm Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm
[email protected], friendly establishment. Mon-Fri; 9am-3.30pm Sat. Sun. Credit V. Facebook page). 56 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Arts & Entertainment Live music, Ghanaian art and the beautiful game Art & Film 60 Children 64 Music 66 Sport 68 Galleries established artists, such as Owusu Ankomah and George Hughes, whose paintings are reminiscent of Joes’ Perspective Art Boutique with more than 800 books about visual arts, that is one of the organisation’s most important AACD African Market Jean Michel Basquiat and Willem De projects. It’s also developing a If the Arts Centre seems a little too Kooning, and others by new and debating forum and a public hectic – and it certainly can do upcoming artists like Ebenezer database of artists, organisations, – this three-storey shop is full of Borlabie. Market, rural and urban galleries and patrons. much the same kind of goods, albeit scenes are interspersed with political Off 2nd Circular Road, Cantonments with fixed prices. There are dozens satires and of course there are the (0302 776 502, http://fcaghanablog. Art & Film of rooms, each representing a shrouded figures and staccatoed different medium: woodwork, beads, crowd scenes by Glover himself. Kente cloth, clothing, painting, There are also collectors’ pieces: wordpress.com; Facebook page). Open 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am- 4pm Sat. sculpture and a handful of Asafo flags with appliquéd and antiquities. There’s definitely a fair embroidered symbols; ancient Goethe-Institut amount of tat (keyrings, flags, strip-woven Kente cloths by the The Goethe-Institut is the German Ghana T-shirts) mixed in, but there Akan and Ewe; masks from around cultural centre and has been are also serious artistic items. the continent of the type that established in Ghana for more than Friendly (and numerous) staff inspired Picasso, and 50 years. It has an impressive array will advise on the item’s intricately carved of events and art exhibitions. Links provenance. Come here for relaxed Top tip! furniture. There are also some full-sized between German art and that of Ghana are given precedence, whether souvenir shopping Souvenirs coffins in the shapes through sound installations, mixed – although not that Foundations and of crabs, running Foundation for Contemporary media pieces, performance art, exclusive painting. shops in hotels are shoes and eagles. Art (FCA) photography or painting. The Abebresem Street, Osu often good places to Everything is for sale. The Foundation for Contemporary National Film and Television (0302 778 105). Open find high quality art There are ambitious Art at the WEB du Bois Centre (a Institute is next door. Be sure to 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. in Accra. plans for a restaurant research centre for Pan-African check the website or pick up a that would take history and culture, and named after programme of events. Alliance Française advantage of a spectacular African-American civil rights 30 Kakramadu Road, PMB 52, d’Accra position overlooking the Gulf of activist William Edward Burghardt Cantonments (0302 776 764, The Accra-based arm of the French Guinea and the fishing vessels that Du Bois) was set up by Joe www.goethe.de/accra). Open cultural centre offers a large range bounce along it. Nkrumah, formerly of the National 1pm-5pm Mon-Thur; 10am-2pm Fri Art & Film of artistic activities every week. It Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach Museum, and Virginia Ryan, an library and information centre. particularly excels in live music Road, Labadi (0302 762 576, Australian artist. It exhibits work by events, but there are also regular art www.artistsallianz.com). Open up-and-coming artists in interesting Joe’s Perspective Art Boutique displays and talks from international 9am-6pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. ways, such as its Art in the Garden This luxury art boutique, set up by artists. The obvious focus is on projects. But it’s the growing library, Kukua Ampah now has its biggest French and Ghanaian artists (often Arts Centre (Centre for working together), which forms an National Culture) artistic bridge between both cultures Just next door to the National in terms of language, education and Museum is the Arts Centre. Hawkers artistic programming. There is attack from all sides as soon as you always something interesting on; be arrive, but if you’re not exhausted sure to look at the website before by the scrum you can find cloths, arriving in town. carvings, baskets, drums, bags, Liberation Link, Airport Residential beads, sandals, sculptures, stools Area behind Opeibia House (0302 and rugs, and occasionally antiques. 773 134, www.afaccra.com). Open It’s a place for some incredible finds Nubuke Foundation 10am-5pm Mon-Fri. and gifts. The best bet is to head past the hassle which you’ll Good foundations Aid to Artisans Ghana inevitably encounter at the entrance Although there are a handful of towards the back of the complex these outposts around the country, where it’s a bit more relaxed. including in Kakum National Park Haggling is expected. There’s also and Elmina Castle, the most an art gallery, which sells prints and Ghanaian photographers, painters, sculptors and filmakers are finally getting the international accessible and largest is located paintings at reasonable prices. recognition they deserve. Here’s where to find the best, and the next generation within the Artists Alliance Gallery. 28th February Road, near Kwame Aid to Artisans Ghana is a craft Nkrumah Monument, Accra Centre shop that sells souvenirs, chairs, (0302 662 581). Open 8.30am-5pm “W e felt that there was Nubuke Foundation was started in work home, come here. have become indispensable to the bags, textiles, wooden gifts and Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat-Sun. something missing in 2006, but without a home – Its success reflects a wider arts scene. jewellery. The organisation was set Recommended Ghana,” Odile Tevie working around the country where interest in Ghanaian art. To see While the contemporary arts up to help local artisans create Berj Art Gallery tells Time Out Accra from the leafy the art took them. But in 2009, this burgeoning artistic confidence scene continues to grow and high-quality crafts and sell them at a Run by the painter Betty Acquah, Nubuke Foundation terrace in front of the Nubuke they moved to this space. “It in Accra is not hard – head to evolve, Ghana’s rich and fair price. It’s a worthy idea and this gallery represents Larry Otoo Foundation, of which she is means we have consistency the packed Loom gallery or deep-rooted heritage of traditional combines well with the Artists and other well-established artists. It The Nubuke Foundation has been in this pleasant building in East director. “We needed to speak for now,” explains Odile. It has the wonderful beachside craftsmanship is certainly not Alliance Gallery, even if it is tricky also offers a good framing service. Legon, its first permanent location, since 2009. It’s one of the most artistic expression. There has also seen cultural Artists Alliance, being eclipsed. These time-old to know where one ends and the 245/3 Ringway Link opp Video interesting art galleries in the city. It was set up to provide an been a lot of upheaval in Ghana and artistic expression suffered. events, including a monthly poetry night. Time-old created by revered painter Ablade Glover, skills and traditions remain integral to the culture of other starts. Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach Mart, Ringway Estates (0302 764 606). Open 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat. artistic space for Ghanaian artists (often in collaboration with artists from other countries) and show off their talents. It also has a We needed to talk about it, and But the work continues skills and to relish examples. communities across the country. Road, Labadi (0302 771 375, philanthropic aim to support artisans around the country. One show the world that there is higher quality in Ghana.” outside the walls and into the heart of traditions As well as Accra’s galleries, there are Here, the line between art and craft has always been a blurry one, www.aidtoartisans.org). Open 8am-6pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. British Council This British cultural centre is not as successful project was with Kente cloth weavers in Tsiame, in the Volta Region, teaching them how to make more commercially The Nubuke Foundation’s home Ghana. A recent remain exhibition spaces at with beautifully crafted and proactive as the Goethe-Institut or Alliance Française d’Accra in appealing cloth (tableware and bedding for example) as well as is an airy building in East Legon. When we last visited, there was an project saw them working with Kente integral several hotels, such as Novotel (see p75) decorated functional objects highly sought after. At places such as Artists Alliance Gallery The hugely respected Ghanaian exhibiting arts, but it has some improving techniques such as colour fastening. The results, available at its shop, are beautiful pieces of work (between GH¢100-600 for exhibition by visiting Nigerian cloth makers who and Fiesta Royale (see Wild Gecko (see p62), Joe’s artist Ablade Glover established this cultural events. Check the website two yards). Its vibrant cultural offering includes poetry evenings, artists looking to collaborate with already make beautiful cloth, but p73). Consulates promote the Perspective (see p61), Aid to renowned arts venue, which has for details. There is also an office in Saturday workshops, art walks, film and music. Keep an eye on the Ghanaian ones. It was one of with Nubuke Foundation’s help, arts with film screenings, dance Artisans and the Arts Centre art become one of the most important Kumasi (Bank Road, 051 37197). website for details. many shows put on every year. now make pieces with commercial shows, local art and photography and souvenirs can often be one of its kind in Ghana. There are three Liberia Road (0302 610 090, www. 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon, near Mensvic Grand Hotel (028 910 Also on display are works from its and international appeal. If you exhibitions, and the likes of the and the same. Finding a wonderful expansive floors of art in the cool britishcouncil.org/africa-gh-contact- 2163, 0277 445 596, www.nubukefoundation.org). growing permanent collection. The want to take some of this weaving Foundation for Contemporary Art gift in Ghana is never tricky. marble galleries. Some are by us.htm). Open 8am-4pm Mon-Fri. 60 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 61 store at the Mövenpick Ambassador National Museum filmmakers. NAFTI hosts its own Hotel (and there’ll be another one at biennial film and television festival the Kempinski). Many of the elegant called ANIWA, in which and creative pieces here are bespoke documentary features and and adapted by Kukua from artisans animation films are shown. across West Africa. Modern works Kakramadu, by Goethe-Institut, of art incorporating the rich cultural Cantonments (0302 777 616, influences of the region are created,
[email protected]). customised and commissioned by Kukua. Every piece is distinctive. Goethe-Institut This is very much an exclusive The German cultural centre has shopping experience, where old and regular screenings of films by new West Africa meet. Best sellers German and international directors. include lithe bronze figures They often run on Thursday nights accentuating the male and female in themed seasons. There are also form, often mid-dance. workshops and film festivals at the Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel, Institut. They were heavily involved Independence Avenue, Ridge (0204 in Who is Highlife?, a documentary 321 390). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sun. about the rise of burgher highlife – a Other location Labadi Beach Hotel fusion of traditional highlife played (0204 311 126). by the Ghanaian diaspora in Germany that became big in the Loom 1970s. Check the website for details. Loom’s Frances Ademola has a The National Film and Television popular gallery that continues to Institute often uses the screening exhibit paintings and sculptures by in the book Going into Darkness by from the artist Massimo. It’s room here for shows. a good selection of Ghana’s foremost Thierry Secretan. The coffins are brimming with handmade art 30 Kakramadu Road, PMB 52, artists, with a smattering of still used for their primary purpose, objects, collectables, homewares, Cantonments (0302 776 764, www. expressive Nigerian pieces. The albeit in more creative ways than the furniture, handbags, musical goethe.de/accra). Open 1pm-5pm modest space has been here since norm. If you’re a farmer, you can be instruments, soaps, Ghanaian Mon-Thur; 10am-2pm Fri library. 1969, and is bursting at the seams buried in an onion or tomato, or in a children’s books, bangles and other with the work of nearly 100 artists. tuna fish if you’re a fisherman. design products. Items available at Silverbird Cinema Art & Film If Ademola is around, she is Surprisingly, the caskets were only Wild Gecko tend to be slightly left The most luxurious (and only!) delightful company, chatting first built in 1957, however they have of centre due to Poem’s keen eye for multiplex cinema experience in exuberantly about the artists, such become artworks with appearances ambitious design. Although Wild town is the Silverbird Cinema at as Seth and Serge Clottey and in European galleries. There are also Gecko sources from across Africa, the Accra Mall. It has five theatres, Gabriel Eklou, and happily offering a couple of good examples in the many of the items are local, and the biggest with a seating her great knowledge of the British Museum in London, along often from humanitarian capacity of 300 and the Ghanaian art scene, past and with other artefacts. See page 8 for projects in Ghana. It’s off smallest with a capacity present. Loom is regarded as one of Ghana’s premier galleries. more on coffins and the artisans that make them. a long dusty road in North Dzorwulu, but Top tip! of around 180. Films screened include Samlotte House, 119 Kwame Teshie-Tema Road (0244 114 719, Wild Gecko really is a Haggling Hollywood, Nkrumah Avenue, south of Facebook Page). world unto itself. It’s At the markets, it is Bollywood, Nkrumah Circle, Adabraka (0302 unmissable if you expected that bartering Nollywood and local 224 746). Open 10am-5pm Wild Gecko Handicrafts need a unique will go on, so the initial films of high quality Mon-Sat. This multi-faceted workshop-cum- souvenir, and a price is adjusted and production. With art-emporium is the brainchild of pleasant shopping accordingly. tickets priced at National Museum Poem, a Dutch woman who has lived experience to boot. around GH¢15, the A new director may be bringing in Ghana nearly all of her life, and Behind Gulf House, Okponglo Silverbird is mainly for changes to the National Museum. In Elizabeth Vardon. Wild Gecko is (0302 508 500, www.wild-gecko. well-heeled Accra cinemagoers. the past, the gallery in the museum foremost a workshop, employing com). Open 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sat. It’s amazing to think this is the has hosted surprising exhibitions artisans for the production of only dedicated cinema in Ghana, such as the excellent South Meets West that brought artists like Jane Alexander, Fernando Alvim, characteristically Ghanaian emblematic Adinkra collectables, beautifully finished wooden Film but it’s fulfilling its role well, with a great selection of movies. Accra Mall (0302 823 270, Meschac Gaba, Tracey Rose and furniture, ceramics, bespoke textiles Alliance Française d’Accra www.silverbirdghana.com). Yinka Shonibare to Ghana. But it can and jewellery wrought of silver and With networks dotted throughout Open 10am-9pm daily. often be a little lacklustre. The new bull horn. Particularly popular are the world (over 130 countries as well director, we hear, is looking to sculptures made from recycled metal as its networks in France), the Surfers Inn improve the contemporary art Accra-based outpost of the Alliance The Surfers Inn in East Legon is a offering. Still, you’ll find Wild Gecko Handicrafts Française screens films in French German-run restaurant with a ethnographic items from the royal and has a library of films and games room with two pool tables courts, goldweights, beads, textiles, documentaries, children’s films and and a rentable screening room that stools and pottery, as well as Senufo French television channels. can seat up to 25 people. The and Zulu figures, Ife heads and Liberation Link, Airport Residential restaurant and games room have Bushongo carvings. Area behind Opeibia House (0302 50- and 42-inch screens on which Barnes Road, Adabraka (0302 221 773 134, www.afaccra.com). Open sports events are shown and the 633). Open 9am-5pm Tues-Sun. 5am-5pm Mon-Fri. screening room has a 130-inch Admission GH¢7 (GH¢2 for camera). cinema screen. The room can be National Film and Television booked for GH¢25 from 2pm until Kane Kwei Carpentry Institute 9pm and has more than 700 DVDs to Workshop The National Film and Television choose from. Watching a scheduled This is the original workshop for the Institute (NAFTI) was set up in 1978 movie costs GH¢2. The restaurant fantasy coffins that are now collected by the government as a Higher has an eclectic array of dishes from and exhibited as contemporary art Education Institute and runs courses Germany, Italy, France and Greece, all over the world. Coffins shaped as in film and television production. It including smoked pork chops, and birds, fish, aeroplanes, shoes, beer also has workshops for the general pizza made in a firewood oven – bottles, cars and anything else that public on composition, writing, art perfect to go with a movie. stretches the imagination are direction, cinematography and East Legon near American House exhibited as pieces of art and sold as sound. Screenings mostly take place (0302 505 111, www.surfersinn.co. miniatures. Many have been featured with seasonal festivals and visiting nr). Open noon-11pm daily. 62 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Activities Marvel’s Minigolf This is an impressive minigolf course that will attract fun-loving Baran Play Garden adults as much as children (there’s a This play centre has high-energy bar after all). The 18-hole golf course outdoor facilities such as two bouncy has the usual challenges and tricks. castles, a trampoline, bumper cars The clubhouse serves snacks. and a bungee trampoline. Luckily Forest Avenue, Abelenkpe traffic there is also an on-premises lights, Dzorwulu (0302 915 400, Children restaurant that serves pizzas, burgers and fries, as well as Turkish kebabs that can replenish energy. www.marvelsghana.com). Open 11am-9pm Mon-Thur; 10am-10pm Fri-Sun. Admission GH¢8, children The parents may be watching with under 12 GH¢6. raised heartbeats as some of the activities are not for the faint-hearted. Plot N0 82, Osu Badu 2nd Street, Shopping Dzorwulu (0202 631 631). Open Benetton 9am-8pm daily. This popular Italian brand caters for nine-month-old babies through to Churcheese 14-year-olds and there is a stylish This restaurant and play place, by range of attire. But the best thing the Morning Star School, off the about the store is its particularly Danquah Circle, is a handy stop-off wide selection of accessories from for families. For the children there is swimwear, to flip flops, belts, shoes a bouncy castle and games room. and ruck sacks. There’s also a restaurant serving Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, Ghanaian dishes. Airport City, (wwwmarinamallghana. 27 Orphan Crescent, North Labone com). Open 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; (0302 763525). Open call for details. noon-8.30pm Sun. Kids Planet Chicco This is a rather state-of-the-art venue This international brand is not only with a fancy entrance, arcade games ideal for clothes and toys shopping and an entertainment arena for more (0-5 years) but a good retailer of hair, technophobic children. For creative body and baby bath-time products, kids, there’s face-painting, arts and and furniture including car seats. craft classes, dancing classes Ground Floor, Marina Mall, Airport (Zumba and HipHop), a puppet Bypass Road, Airport City, (0544 show, karaoke, a bouncy castle and 355 368, www.marinamallghana. basketball hoops for the most com). Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; Kids just want fun energetic. There’s a crèche for noon-8pm Sun and public holidays. children between 10 months and three years which is open on Coco Angel Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays This very brightly decorated store from 10am-noon. with its vivid lime green and white Whether it is a cooling swimming pool, or Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, colour scheme stocks smart clothes Airport City, near Holiday Inn (www. such as blazers and casualwear by last-minute supplies, Accra meets every need marinamallghana.com). Open Spanish labels such as Mayoral and 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; Pablosky for 0-14 year olds. noon-7pm Sun. Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, T here’s definitely more to When the heat is far too Airport City (0264 603 995, www. entertaining kids in Accra unbearable or whenever parents Kidz Cottage marinamallghana.com). Open than iPads. In spite of the fancy a bit of retail therapy, all the This is a remarkable place for 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. blazing heat – sometimes up to shopping malls have some kind of children under 12 who love to be 38C – they still love a good bit of play area; some soft and cuddly, spoiled rotten. The large safety- Happy Minds Ghana old-fashioned outdoor fun and others loud, brash and with video conscious play area is great to Toys with an educational twist: keep more and more spots are popping games blowing up tanks. Good expend energy, but the part the little children’s minds active while having up in Accra to accommodate options include the new girls tend to love is inside the beauty fun with a range of durable and their urge to break out into Marina Mall which has the parlour. There’s a play area outside interactive toys, from sewing and sweat. Baran Play Garden, newest children’s shops and and video games, books and toys. embroidery kits to puzzles. popularly known as ‘Play attractions (see p49). No 133 Noi Fetrika Street, Airport Behind the Netherlands Embassy, No Garden’ probably There’s certainly Residential (0302 765 616, www. 9 Nima Avenue, TV3 Road, Osu offers the most The kids something for kidzcottage.biz). Open 9am-5.30pm (0302 270 040 happymindsgh@ adventurous outdoor playground in the city are bound everyone – both parents and children Tue-Fri; 8.30am-5.30pm Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. gmail.com). Open 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri. and the kids can burn to burn off – and with planning, off loads of energy while parents relax loads of creative field trips and lots of ice cream, you La Palm Kids Play Theme Park ‘Theme park’ may be pushing it a Toy Mania Stocking international brands under canopies with cool drinks. energy can keep the little ones amused while little, but this new play area at La Palm Royal hotel is an excellent Clementoni, Faro, Barbie, Hello Kitty Playgo and MacMillan, Toy Mania As well as the new outdoor relaxing in the knowledge they’re addition to the hotel’s family-focused has arts and crafts and electronic options, La Palm Royal Beach safe. The British High Commission offering. There’s a nautical theme, toys and scooters for boys and girls Hotel (see p76) has a brand new, Club (0302 7010 650) has a with a big boat to climb up and a starting from three months to adult. and excellent, play area, and playgroup for little ones. shallow paddling pool. A bouncy This is also an ideal place to stock Labadi Beach Hotel, where there’s Finally, the Dwenesie Music castle occasionally makes an up on party-bag gifts and fillers. always lots going on (see p76), Institute is worth looking into for appearance. It is right by the pool. Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road remain firm favourites. The larger mini-Mozarts. Contact director La Palm Royal Hotel (0264 967 926, (0246 070 070, www.marinamall hotels are generally always a safe Dinah Reindorf on 021 228 615, 0208 152 078, ghana.com). Open 9am-7pm bet for fun days out by the pool 0208 179 323, quashienovsky@ www.lapalmroyalbeachhotel.com). Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; – especially for short stay visitors. gmail.com. Open 9am-5.30pm daily. 12.30-8pm Sun. 64 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Jahwi at Alliance Francaise Venues Jazztone Some of Ghana’s best musicians play here. There is live entertainment +233 Jazz Bar & Grill every Friday and Saturday from See review right. 8.30pm and poetry readings are held on Wednesdays. On weekends, catch Alliance Française owner Toni Manieson singing jazz The Alliance Française masterfully standards accompanied by congas, promotes Francophone culture, and piano and sax. Music on Wednesdays plays host to musicians from Ghana and across the globe – including from France Phone for details. (0302 761 0820). Open varies. and Spain. With a sizable garden and Labadi Beach two outdoor stages, it’s definitely one Reggae DJs play on Wednesday of the leading live venues in Accra. nights near an open bar that is Seun Kuti, son of Afrobeat luminary stocked with local and imported Fela Kuti, played here, as well as a beers. There are occasional live selection of traditional and highlife bands, as well as acrobats and other bands. Every year there’s a entertainers. The groups come from month-long festival of music, loosely around Accra as well as based around Francophone genres. neighbouring countries. The Invited musicians from Europe often standard is very high and you’ll come over to play alongside likely catch something that gets you Ghanaian artists. On Wednesday moving. It draws a mix of nights there’s often highlife music international students, reggae lovers, – one of the few places in Accra rastafarians and the less pious where you can see it. The larger ‘rent-a-dreads’ looking to hook up stage is used for bigger events, such with a foreigner or at least sell some as a recent album launch by Jahwi Rasta-styled wares. A worthwhile (see picture right). There’s a good trip if you are in town. You may also open bar and Nicolino’s pizza (see catch some music on Sundays, p44) at the premises. during which half the city seemingly Liberation Link, Airport Residential descends on the place. Area behind Opeibia House (0302 Beach Road. Admission GH¢3. 773 134, www.afaccra.com). Recommended National Theatre Big Milly’s Backyard +233 Jazz Bar & Grill The unmistakable architecture of Set on a lovely beach, Big Milly’s has the National Theatre deserves to be live reggae on Saturdays and +233 (named after the Ghanaian dialling code) is the best place to seen – it’s been described as either a Sundays. The venue is an intimate see live music in Accra. It is an intelligently designed club that has ship, or, more abstractly, as a seagull hidey-hole to get away from it all. live bands most days of the week – nearly all of a very high calibre, spreading its wings. Chinese Wanlov the Kubolor can be seen here and many reaching ‘legendary status’, such as a regular Sunday developers built the theatre and sporadically, although generally a night show from highlife star Gyedu-Blay Ambolley & the Sekondi opened it in 1992 as the centrepiece live reggae band performs Bob Band (pictured). Inside, there are two floors. The band play on a for cultural life in Ghana. It is home Marley covers. On Fridays, there is a small stage downstairs, but can also be seen from the U-shaped to the National Symphony Orchestra, beach barbecue and drumming from upstairs. However, the clever bit, is that there’s ample seating the National Theatre Players, Music a cultural group. And at any time outside too, which looks onto a glass wall behind which the band National Dance Company and three there’s usually someone playing play. And external speakers mean its almost as loud outside as in. youth groups. The events calendar is City sounds guitar. The food is excellent and the Each section has its own bar with attentive servers. The food – getting better all the time, and major tiny nook of a restaurant makes a burgers, hotdogs, chicken, chips, kebabs and pork chops – is mostly touring acts are slowly but surely pleasant place to sit and while away off the grill. Order a handful of kebabs, a Star and you have the being included in the programme. an afternoon or evening. makings of one of Accra’s best nights out. The music varies between There is the main auditorium, a There’s never been a better time to see live music in Ghana. Join the party Kokrobite Beach, west of Accra highlife, blues, jazz (although rarely hip hop) and anything else good. dance hall, an exhibition hall, a (0287 288 889, www.bigmilly.com). There’s only an entrance charge (usually GH¢10) when the band Chinese garden, and FolkSpace, an merits it. It’s a hugely popular venue, and rightly so. open-air theatre. The box office is T here are times when highlife, provide the soundtrack to the city. While they may no longer be which has an impressive regular Bywell Bar North Ridge (023 323 3233, Facebook page). Open 5pm-2.33am inside the building and will have a Ghana’s most famous The biggest shift in Ghanaian heard be under the shade of roster of musicians and highlife. On Thursday nights the Alpha Mon-Thur; 5pm-4am Fri; 2.33pm-4am Sat, Sun. list of events. Its website is also musical export, almost music, however, came with the coconut palms, Ghana’s hiplife Churches are a major centre for Waves Band, led by Desmond getting updated more regularly, but seems a continuation of the emergence of hip hop from the stars, like the griots of the past, music, and musicians making Ababio, plays highlife and reggae. the best bet is its Facebook page. horn-blasts, shouts of stall US. The country’s very own are telling their story. They are the gospel music are also very Food and drink are available all with a mixture of reggae, and other culmination of workshops held by Tours can be taken around the holders and general hum of the version, known as hiplife, was poets of the 21st century Accra. popular. And it’s hard to find a night and dancing goes on until (random) hits before returning with avant-garde artists or simply a building for a small charge. Call 0243 streets of Accra. The frenetic, pioneered in particular by the place outside of Jamaica where morning. The crowd is a good mix a highlife set that gets everyone up celebration. There are also regular 758 876 or email publicrelations@ polyrhythmic, slightly ‘Godfather of Hiplife’, Reggie BEST VENUES there is such high regard for of Ghanaian locals and and dancing. The musicianship film, theatre and dance events nationaltheatre.com.gh. discordant charms of Ghana’s Rockstone, who began to rap This all coincides with a clear reggae and dancehall, as the internationals while the long bar is is usually excellent. throughout the year. Liberia Road and Independence perfect for imbibing local beers and Off Lagos Avenue, 30 Kakramadu Road, Avenue, Adabraka (0302 663 445, trademark genre could have only emerged from this Highlife in Twi, a local language. On the streets of upsurge in the amount of live music seen in Accra – more than Wednesday reggae parties at Labadi Beach show. chatting. The energy is low-key but East Legon (21 Top tip! PMB 52, www.nationaltheatre.com.gh). city. The origins of the Accra, from the bars last year even. To see highlife, the band, considered by many to be 911591). Open from Your playlist Cantonments (0302 Admission GH¢1, extra charge for music is in the big band sound, melded could only and taxi stereos, it is hiplife that is most +233 is the best place in the city right now. The thoughtfully AWARD WINNERS The key event of the year is the the new wave of highlife music, are a must-see. There is also live music 5pm daily. Time Out Accra’s website has a 776 764, www.goethe. de/accra). Open cameras. with Caribbean have come likely to be heard. Tic designed club has music most Ghana Music Awards on Saturdays and occasionally Goethe-Institut Spotify playlist of 1pm-5pm Mon-Thur; Next Door Tropicana, and is deeply inspired by from this Tac, VIP Mensah and Batman, all of who mix nights, and always of a high standard. It’s also a good place to (www.ghanamusicawards.com), which is held in April of each year. theatre on Fridays. It can get a little rowdy later in the evening. The Goethe-Institut is the cultural institute Ghanaian music to hear. 10am-2pm Fri. There is live music on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 8.30pm, traditional Ghanaian music. But its legacy is city hip hop with highlife and increasingly hang out with friends, with indoor and outdoor seating. Also popular There are more than a dozen categories, including the Highlife Southern end of Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), Osu. Open 6pm-2am of Germany and has just celebrated 50 years of work International Conference Centre and you can catch some traditional song and dance performances as even more far-reaching. In 21st reggae, have brought Ghanaian is Chez Afrique. Contemporary Artist of the Year, daily. in Ghana. Although it’s not set up The centre has played host to well. Some of the old-school century Accra, hip hop, reggae, music the full loop. UK acts such Another surprising venue which Hiplife Artist and Afro-pop Song of for live music as much as its French massive international stars like highlife musicians and singers pop, funeral tunes and traditional as Dizzee Rascal, Sway and often has highlife is La Palm Royal the Year. The 2013 event saw Chez Afrique counterpart, the institute does hold Jay-Z and Fat Joe but is also the come together here. music all mingle into one Lethal Bizzle, all of Ghanaian Beach Hotel in its outdoor African wins for R2BEES and M.anifest, This popular restaurant often has music events, usually in the venue for bi-annual highlife Beach Road, Teshie, opposite the electrifying cacophony. Eighty descent, blend the musical legacy Village restaurant during lunch and who recently collaborated with live bands, including highlife courtyard behind the building. It festivals and concerts. Military Academy (0302 713 961, years since its heyday, highlife and of their parents’ home, in grime dinner service. The key venue, Damon Albarn, at the glitzy musicians. The food’s good, but the could be anything from visiting Castle Road, opposite State www.next-door.com). Open 10am its precursors and off-shoots still and UK hip hop. however, is the Alliance Française, spring ceremony. music’s better. Many sets start off musicians from Germany, the House, Osu. until late daily. 66 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 67 Spectator Hearts of Oak fans city right now. The ridiculously inviting pool is a great way to cool sports down on hot days (that’s to say every day), with comfy chairs and waiters on in-line skates to whizz you round Football a cold drink. It’s a large pool with a For visitors who want to watch a live good shallow end for children, and game while in Accra, the best wide enough to do a few token chances are between August and lengths. And despite being in the Sport April, which is the official football season. Regular domestic games at the Ohene Djan Stadium, to see middle of the city, you barely realise the fact. Farther around the manicured lawns are two floodlit Hearts of Oak for example, are tennis courts. The gym, overlooking generally safe for tourists. For the pool on the second floor of the spontaneous purchases, official hotel, is well equipped with all you’d tickets can be bought at the Ohene expect, and friendly personal Djan Stadium or through a friendly trainers are on hand if you need a bit concierge at your hotel. At the game of advice or impetus. There’s a spa violence is rare. and two Thai massage treatment rooms, with outstanding masseurs, Ohene Djan Stadium from 3pm. It’s a good chance for Celebrity Golf Club plus a sauna. It offers a Up to FIFA standards, this venue anyone new to the sport to learn Located in the city of Tema, this is a comprehensive range of membership hosts national team games and is the about polo – local spectators are popular golf club among the packages depending on the level of home of one of Ghana’s most talkative and will fill you in on the workers at local logistics companies. access you want. Platinum includes popular teams, Hearts of Oak. game’s rules and point system. The There’s a good restaurant too. gym, pool, tennis courts, sauna, and Concerts and other public events are best bet is to turn up – occasionally Sakumono, Tema (022 401176, one massage a month, or just a one also held here. The stadium hosted there’s a charge, especially for the 0303 403 619). off session. A great place to spend the opening and closing games of big games. Several national teams the day relaxing. the 2008 Africa Cup of Nations. visit Accra every season. Tema Country Golf Club Independence Avenue, Ridge (302 In front of Independence Square This long-established club (founded 611 000, www.moevenpick-hotels. (0302 237 673, www.accraheartsofoak.com). Participation 1957) is one of the most professional clubs in Ghana. It’s located on the com). Credit AmEx, MC, V. Baba Yara Sports Stadium With a capacity of 40,500, the Baba sports way to Tema. Mile 20 on Accra-Aflao Road, opp Free Zone, Tema. Total Fitness Health Club This excellent gym has the latest Life Fitness equipment. There are Yara stadium in Kumasi is Ghana’s Football personal trainers on hand if needed, largest. It is named after one of Lizzy Sports Complex Gyms but you can just go in and use the Ghana’s best footballers, a former The eponymous Lizzy is Marcel If you should feel the need to do a equipment. There’s a nice 20m x 10m Boxing at Ohene Djan stadium star of the national team who played Desailly’s mother. In 2011 he bit of exercise in Accra (and if pool out back with seating around it for Asante Kotoko (the stadium’s opened up this world-class standing outside and sweating – plus a poolside bar to undo all home team). It’s up to pretty good sporting complex in his won’t do the trick) then your good work. There’s a wide Fighting fit Top tip! standards (floodlights, maintained native Accra. There’s there are a couple of range of classes including zumba, grass, scoreboard). one almost full-sized excellent gyms listed boot camp training, aqua aerobics Kumasi (www.asantekotokofc.org). pitch, plus three Keep cool below. The upmarket and circuit training, among others. all-grass five-a-side Hotels are the best bet hotels usually have a 14 Jungle Road, A&C Square east Boxing pitches. Alongside is a for a dip in a pool. Most gym of sorts, but the Legon (0302 942 509, totalfitness@ Cheer along the local heroes at a football game, watch the latest star of Ghanaian boxing, or Boxing in Accra is a serious very inviting pool allow non-guests to use best bet is to visit the ancmall.com). Open 5.30am-9.30pm business, and nowhere more so than overlooked by a sports the faciities for a couple listed below. Mon-Fri; 7am-7pm Sat; 10am-5pm get involved yourself. Accra loves sport – even polo in the quarter of Bukom – one of the bar and grill, a modest fee. All have walk-in rates, Sun. Admission GH¢25 one session. poorest neighbourhoods in basketball court and a but if booked by sessions A ccra is a colourful place. ‘The Bison’, and he’s the kind of Despite there being 16 clubs in Ghanaian boxer of all time is Jamestown. There are more than 20 children’s pool. The pool can for a week or longer there are Pools Stalls sell art and ripped-off player who typifies the country’s the top flight, there are only two Azumah Nelson, who has been boxing schools here. Joshua ‘The be used for GH¢15 a day (GH¢10 discounts available. For a small fee, usually around CDs, bright taxis streak sporting ethos: play strong, play dominant teams in the country: inaugurated in the Boxing Hall of Hitter’ Clottey, Ike ‘Bazooka’ Quartey for children) and this entitles you to GH¢5-20, you can splash about in Sport down the roads, and, seemingly, solid, play to win, play to Accra’s majestically named Hearts Fame. Ike ‘Bazooka’ Quartey also and Azumah ‘The Professor’ Nelson use the floodlit football pitches in the Pippa’s Health Centre one of the many hotel pools for a every male wears a football jersey. entertain. But while Essien may be of Oaks (whose supporters’ chant fought greats such as De La Hoya (named because of his ability to evenings. There are football training There are three outlets of Pippa’s day. The best pools are listed below. Arsenal, Chelsea and Manchester the most expensive Ghanaian is surely one of the world’s and Vargas, and among the ‘teach his opponents a lesson’) all felt programmes for youngsters between Health Centre in Accra. The newest United are the most sought after, (indeed, African) player of all time, quaintest: ‘Be quiet and don’t be current hopes is Joshua Clottey, a the smack of a fist and the crunch five and 16. The hugely successful is at Lizzy Sports Complex, but the African Regent Hotel but we’ve seen Sheffield there are dozens of other names silly/We are the famous Hearts of former IBF Welterweight of the deck in Bukom. There is no Corporate Football League is an flagship gym is at the Ringway 237/238 Airport West (0302 765 Wednesday, Burnley and who have made it big in Europe Oak’) and Kumasi’s Asante Champion. The remarkable story other area of the world with this excellent idea. If Marcel is in town, Estate branch. The third is in Tema. 180, www.african-regent-hotel.com). Scunthorpe United shirts. Usually, after coming through the ranks of Kotoko, aka the Porcupine of Ghanaian boxing is centred quantity of boxing schools, and he’ll be around. The equipment is all Life Fitness Golden Tulip the team on the badge doesn’t local clubs such as Hearts of Oak Warriors. Since the league’s around Bukom, a small shanty there is no other place in the world Near the A&C Shopping Mall, East and all branches are air-conditioned Liberation Road, Airport (0302 213 matter – they are supporters of and Asante Kotoko. inception in 1956, Hearts of town in Jamestown. There are that has produced so many world Legon (0302 521 851, www. with satellite TV and modern music 161, www.goldentulipaccra.com). football. And how. The fact that almost all Oak have won 20 more than 20 boxing schools in champion boxers in the last 75 years. lizzysportscomplex.com). systems. There are a variety of La Palm Royal Beach You don’t need to be in Ghana Ghanaian footballers of note championships, Kotoko 22. this area alone, more than the Try the Greater Accra Boxing activities on offer, including body By Labadi Beach (0302 771 long to appreciate that the country ply their trade Their nearest total found in the whole of many Association (0302 760 892) for details Golf combat, spinning, pilates, zumba 700,www.gbhghana.net). has a special relationship with the sport. Every bit of open land in overseas makes the Ghana Premier League Football competitors have managed just three. If countries. Boxing is part of life in Ghana. Any bout with a Ghanaian on bouts, but they are usually fairly well publicised. One-on-one lessons can be booked for those looking to improve their and modern African dance. For the little ones there’s a tumble-tots class. Labadi Beach Labadi Beach (0302 772 501, Accra is a football pitch in waiting. something of a curio. If crowds you’re looking to see a boxer will dominate the media for swing during their trip. There are Taekwondo is an important element www.labadibeach.com). GH¢30 It’s not uncommon to see groups of young boys playing a full-tilt you’re a sports fan, though – or a sociology are just as Hearts game in Accra, they play at the days, and a win by someone like Clottey is treated, understandably, Polo Anyone interested in hobnobbing several reasonable courses, although and classes are held in each of the they are not always up to branches. Pippa’s is also used by adults; GH¢15 children; under four free. game on the beach, even after the tide’s submerged more than half student – you’ll find that the matches, and watchable 40,000-seater Ohene Djan Stadium near as a national victory. For a chance to catch a bout, either head to with the city’s elite can head to the prestigious Accra Polo Club international standards. Mandy Fouracre Dance Academy. The main Ringway centre has a Lizzy Sports Complex Cotton Street, near A&C Mall, East of the pitch. The Premiership, or their attendant fans, Independence Square. Bukom and ask around, or better (Liberation Rd, Airport Residential Achimota Golf Club beauty spa where manicures and Legon (0302 521 851, www. EPL, gets huge audiences on reward first-hand experience. If you’re searching for the full, still ask a taxi driver. Area, 0302 772 775), located behind It’s been 75 years since Achimota massages can be booked. lizzysportcomplex.com). Ghanaian TV and games are African football has a reputation high-decibel match experience, Basketball is also popular in the Woolworths building. Originally Golf Club was first opened. Just 10 5th Ringway Link, Ringway Estate Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel repeated endlessly until the next for being dynamic and direct, and snare a ticket for the Kotoko Accra. A common way into the founded back in 1902, the club is still kilometres outside of Accra city (0302 224 488, Independence Avenue, Ridge game is shown. the GPL is no exception. The clash, which is the liveliest game sport has been for tall locals to be going strong, attracting monied centre, this is a friendly club that is www.pippasfitness.com). (302 611 000, www.moevenpick- Michael Essien, currently on crowds, complete with ball- of the year. plucked off the streets by agents expats from around the world. The happy to host visitors. The course is hotels.com). loan to Real Madrid from Chelsea, jugglers, drumming troupes Ghana’s second sport (some and taught to shoot hoops, but it’s polo season starts in September and an 18-holer with a par of 72. Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Novotel Accra is the best known Ghanaian and fierce tactical debaters, say it should be its first) is, of increasingly played in schools and runs until around Easter. Matches Achimota, Accra (0302 400 220, The Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Barnes Road (0302 667 546, football player. He is known as are usually just as watchable. course, boxing. The most famous colleges in Accra. are held every Saturday and Sunday www.achimotagolf.com). has the best sports facilities in the www.novotel.com). 68 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 69 Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Hotels Rest and relaxation in Accra Hotels 72 Airport airport. The pitched roof lobby is one of the most spacious in the city Labadi Beach Residential (there’s a life-size wooden giraffe greeting arrivals), the staff are more alert than most and the pool area is Expensive seriously inviting. Its stylish lower African Regent Hotel ground floor restaurant, Branche It’s telling that the lobby at the (see p45), is a further selling point African Regent has become a – dining spots this tastefully Hotels frequented spot for informal meetings. This is partly down to the hotel’s location – the international designed are rare in Accra. It’s an unpretentious space, with unpretentious pricing too – it’s not airport is just minutes away by car cutting-edge cuisine, after all. There – and partly down to its laid-back, are five meeting rooms and the upmarket ambience. Public spaces hotel has wireless throughout, as are stylish and manage to well as a business centre. The successfully fuse West African accommodation comprises suites, motifs with modern touches. There apartments, chalets and regular are some quality dining options too, rooms. And if US$310 for a double with the Mukyia Restaurant seems not enough money to be offering an array of African and ridding yourself of in a day, there’s international dishes. Standard a large casino (open Sun-Thur rooms are pretty basic – don’t 1pm-4am; Fri, Sat 1pm-5am) expect too many frills when it immediately next door. It’s a pretty comes to the bathrooms. There’s a grand affair – one of the two business centre with internet biggest in Accra, along with the one terminals and paid-for wireless in at La Palm Royal Beach Hotel – and the rooms. A regular events has roulette, stud poker and schedule keeps things lively, and blackjack set over three adjoining the modest but pleasant pool area levels. It’s worth checking online for sees all ages having fun in the cheaper rates, and longer term sunshine. The service is also better discounts. Artist’s impression of the Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City than most in Accra. There’s a Bars (2). Business centre. Gym. ‘Design Pop-Up shop’ which is Internet (wireless, free shared notable for selling very cool bags terminal). Parking. Pool (outdoor). Designer digs made from recycled litter by Trashy Restaurants (2). Room service. TV. Bags (www.trashybags.org). Liberation Road, Airport Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet (0302 213 161, (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. www.goldentulipaccrahotel.com). Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. Room Rates US$310-435 double. Rooms Hotels are being built all over Accra. And with every new opening, hotels are having to up their service. Spa. TV. 238. Credit AmEx, MC, V. game. Great news for visitors 237/238 Airport West (0302 765 180, www.african-regent-hotel.com). Holiday Inn Accra Airport Rates US$340 double. Rooms 109. This hotel is a cut above what N o matter how impressive a homely, and doing it with panache. service here is among the best in Prices and classification Credit AmEx, MC, V. you might have come to expect from hotel looks from the All eyes at the moment are on Accra. Another smaller hotel The time of the rack rate is over, the Holiday Inn brand elsewhere in outside, it’s the details that the Kempinski, due to open in the should also be mentioned for with many international chain Golden Tulip the world, and the cluster of really matter. Were the check-in first quarter of 2014. The building excellent design. hotels now basing pricing on the The Golden Tulip is one of the most expensive suits usually found and check-out fast? Was the itself is based on a traditional La Villa Boutique should be aeroplane industry. However, our popular hotels in Ghana, thanks to milling around in the bar area is an concierge as helpful as he or she could have been? Were the food Compound house, commonly built by tribal chiefs across West Africa, celebrated for creating a gorgeous retreat among the bustle of Osu. listings loosely follow these categories: Expensive (over its sizable rooms, conference facilities and location near the accurate sign of the property’s popularity with the business world. M Plaza Hotel On paper, the M Plaza should be one North hours convenient? But also, was the room comfortable? Were the light switches easy to with the residences built around a central courtyard with shaded seating areas and a Its rustic chic look, while not ground-breaking, is certainly a refreshing change from the US$200); Mid-range (US$100- $200); Budget (under US$100) for a double room Critics’choice The lobby is a stylish, airy space full of floral displays and modern African wood sculptures, but from a of the area’s top contenders: silver-service restaurant, cocktail bar, sauna, pool, hair salon, full gym Dzorwulu Hotels use (it sounds banal, but it performance pavilion. US ‘could be anywhere’ style of per night. The lowest price we leisure aspect it’s perhaps the and massage services; its location Expensive can be infuriating)? More architects PageSoutherland many hotels. As we hear have given in the range is for Med-style pool – a ridiculously just five minutes from the airport Fiesta Royale often than not, if they Page have built in 269 reports of new a basic double, higher inviting sight on a hot day – also makes it a convenient stopover. The Fiesta Royale has smart rooms, The design Hotels are weren’t noticed, they were fine. It’s when of hotels rooms, a retail space, lounges, restaurants, a openings by Radisson Blu, Hyatt, Marriott, providing prices will include larger rooms and 1 Mövenpick The most exciting development. Squeaky clean and that’s the main draw (despite the building site of new hotels around But while the building’s stately exterior gives an impressive efficient service and a good bar and restaurant – the ideal Hotels things go wrong, or large spa with ten Hilton and Hotel Sun suites, rather than new, with an alluring shopping area. it). The rooms are good, with all introduction, the overall effect lacks accommodation for business become annoying, in Accra treatment rooms, by the Villagio a service expensive rooms such See p74. the amenities you’d expect. It atmosphere. The 100 rooms come travellers and families. Its location, that can really affect is going to swimming pool and group, the standard of with as presidential suites. makes sense to take the Superior with all the typical features to keep no more than 15 minutes from the a stay – just look at TripAdvisor! The design of a hotel get better tennis courts, among other facilities in the complex. Connecting hotels in Accra is only going to get better. panache Shop around and cheaper rates can almost always be 2 Labadi Beach Still one of the classiest options in Accra despite a lot of new competition. It’s beachfront over the Deluxe which are around the same price. There’s a wide food offering from the pool-side guests comfortable – internet access, minibar, tea and coffee – and each room has a balcony complete with airport, is superb. The rooms are large – ranging between standard rooms, executive suites and chalets (what will probably be called User the main lobby to the ballroom and Location found on less popular days and at location is a winner. See p76. bar – hugely popular on Friday table and chairs. However, when – and are each kitted out with DSTV, Experience at some point) is so function spaces is the “Butterfly” This is a major consideration in quieter times of year. The evenings – a bar in the lobby and considering the pretty hefty free wireless, ample wardrobe space important: the bathroom, the lobby, the lighting (and those switches), the wardrobe building, named for its butterfly- shaped roof. Inside, Looney & Associates have melded traffic-clogged Accra. Most of the major chain hotels have congregated around Airport government has put a 15 per cent tax on all accommodation and our prices include this. Using credit 3 La Villa Boutique Hotel The best small hotel in Accra. There’s a modest pool, great terrace the Wiase Restaurant which does a superb buffet, especially on Sunday afternoons with a vast price-tag, there are several areas in need of a little attention and the review websites seem to agree. It is, and a safe. A large breakfast buffet is included. The Fiesta Royale would pass as a reliable and well-run hotel placement, the sofa, even the contemporary West African Residential, which is close to the cards shouldn’t be a problem in and an authentic Italian restaurant. Ghanaian spread, much loved by however, seen as a suitable bet for a anywhere in the world: the service is pillows. A hotel is your home when design with internationally airport of course, as well as many the major international hotels, but See p75. locals. conference, with several well a cut above many others. Its visiting. Details. recognisable amenities. businesses. The Novotel and new many of the smaller hotels won’t Bars (2). Business centre. Disabled equipped rooms. Mansonia restaurant has a private These are areas that hotels in Accra have suffered with in the past, particularly the service, Of the exisiting, however, it’s the Mövenpick which is getting most attention. After opening last Mövenpick are in central Accra – again, good for business contacts. La Palm Royal Beach accept them. We have indicated which ones here accept credit cards, but like everywhere in 4 Holiday Inn A solid choice with a good pool and good options for eating and drinking. See p73. access. Gym. Internet (wireless, free shared terminal). Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants (2). Room Bar (2). Concierge. Business centre. Gym. Internet (wireless). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurants (2). dining area for groups and parties. The bar and restaurant are becoming very popular with something that should be spot on year, it quickly became Accra’s and Labadi Beach are both by the Ghana, make sure they are service. TV. Room service. Spa. TV. non-residents too, thanks to its given the price that many hotels are charging. Yet there are a few hotels that are concentrating on hotspot for the well-heeled. A large airy lobby, restaurant and bar, and that pool – unmmissable – make it sea and are perhaps 10 minutes from central Accra or up to 40 minutes from the airport when the accepted when you arrive. All prices are in US$ and dollars are often preferred over cedis in the 5 Roots Hotel This surprising apartment hotel in the heart of Osu is one of Accra’s best bargains. See Plot 19 & 20 Airport City (0302 740 930, www.holidayinn.com). Rates from US$220 double. Rooms 168. Borstal Avenue (0302 763 417, www.mplaza-hotel.com). Rates US$312 double. Rooms 100. Credit well-cooked Ghanaian, African and international specialties. The Ceiba terrace offers a range of snacks and the details, and making a stay a superb option. It should be said traffic is particularly bad. larger hotels. p75. Credit AmEx, MC, V. AmEx, MC, V. food. The pool is on the small side, 72 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 73 but its backdrop of Italian-style Room Restaurant serves an every weekend. Wireless is available Sangaw Bar. (There are also some gardens makes it a picturesque and international menu as well as throughout the hotel and extensive interesting historical flags from clean area for unwinding. Ghanaian cuisine, including some conference facilities span three Ghana’s colonial past to browse in Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet interesting fusions such as chicken floors. There is a 50 per cent the bar.) The hotel’s 190 air- (wireless, free shared terminal). and mango tartlets. There is also a discount on weekends. conditioned rooms range from Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. pretty small bar. The most pleasant Bar. Business centre. Internet standard and superior rooms to Room service. Spa. TV. place to eat and drink in the hotel is (wireless). Parking. Pool (outdoor). larger suites with two bedrooms. Motorway Extension, North along the arched Delia terrace. The Restaurant. Room service. TV. Bars (2). Concierge. Business centre. Dzorwulu (0302 517 411, Kpehe conference room has 5 Mozambique Link (0302 225 155, Gym. Internet (free wireless, shared www.fiestaroyalehotel.com). Rates reasonable facilities, but contact the www.coconutgrovehotels.com.gh). terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). US$340-440 double. Rooms 100. general manager first. There is also a Rooms 36. Rates US$135-195 Restaurants (2). TV. Credit AmEx, MC, V. gift shop for souvenirs. double. Credit MC, V. Barnes Road (0302 667 546, Bar. Business centre. Internet (shared www.novotel.com). Rates from Mid-range terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). Highgate Hotel US$220 double. Rooms 190. Credit Nogahil Hotel Restaurant. Room service. TV. This is, in some ways, a great little AmEx, MC, V. The three star Nogahil Hotel offers 9 Kakramadu Link, East find. Hidden away among the quiet clean and modern lodgings at around 15 minutes drive from the airport. This intimate arrangement Cantonments, next to Philip’s Clinic (0302 761 162, www.mahoganylodge. com). Rates US$185 double. Rooms backstreets of Asylum Down, the 33-room Highgate is a property with the kind of down-at-home character Osu – just 10 double rooms and two 14. Credit AmEx, MC, V. that many of its slicker, larger Expensive suites – is in easy reach of city competitors lack. That said, it could Recommended La Villa Boutique Hotel attractions; staff are friendly and accommodating, and service, for the Adabraka, do with a bit of TLC in some rooms. The accommodation is generally La Villa Boutique Hotel See Recommended box left. Ridge & most part, is efficient. Internet access spacious (ask to see the rooms first), Mid-range is available in the lobby, and satellite while the wood-panelled bar serves This gorgeous boutique hotel is a quiet and stylish escape close to Frankie’s television in the rooms; the onsite restaurant offers a range of Chinese, international and local Ghanaian Asylum Down as a perfect refuge after a day in the heat. If you’re after internet access, there’s a cable hook up in each room, the centre of Osu. Rooms invite relaxation with huge beds and muted tones spanning chocolates and creams, and a modest plant-fringed pool is overlooked by a high terrace perfect for parties Perched above the bustling restaurants and bars of Frankie’s extensive complex is a 20-room hotel. dishes, and the hotel frequently puts Expensive but the complimentary wireless is and events. The whole place basks in a classy European feel, topped Frankie’s Hotel – which oddly on live music to entertain its guests. Alisa Hotel North Ridge sporadic. Service is friendly but not off by the onsite Italian restaurant, Soprano, open 6am-11.30pm. It’s describes itself as a ‘2.5 star’ Escape the heat by plunging into the Split into three differently modelled particularly snappy or accomplished. cosy, welcoming and with a menu brimming with classic favourites. establishment – is aimed at budget swimming pool, or claim some shade residences – the Pegasus, the A free shuttle bus service runs to Style pervades every element – even the rate card comes in the form travellers. Some rooms are basic but at the pool bar area. Landmark and the Heritage – Alisa and from the airport. The restaurant of a tiny brown scroll tied with string – and while the prices may spacious – the two star? – while Bar. Internet (wireless, free shared is effectively a trio of separate is nothing speical, instead head to seem high, they’re often cheaper than the big hotels – and the place others are teeny tiny – the 0.5 star? terminal). Parking. Restaurant. Room hotels. Rates don’t differ from nearby Asanka (see p44), or The couldn’t be more inviting. There is the possibility of negotiating on – so it’s highly advisable to ask to service. TV. building to building, however, and Lexington (see p36). the price a bit, especially over stays of a few days. see your appointed room before Tetteh Quarshie motorway extension the claim is that the facilities are Bar. Business centre. Internet Bar. Internet. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. Room service. TV. agreeing to anything. All have (0800 7297 2900 UK, 1-888-790- identical throughout. As an (wireless, free shared terminal). 13th Lane, Osu (0302 730 3336;
[email protected]; www. air-conditioning, television and a 5264 US, http://nogahilhotel.com). Recommended accommodation choice it’s certainly Parking. Pool. Restaurant. TV. lavillaghana.com). Rates standard US$275. Rooms 22. Credit AmEx, movie channel. Breakfast is also Rates US$120-150. Credit MC, V. an appealing enough option for 70 Mango Tree Avenue (0302 233 MC, V. thrown in. The real appeal here is Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel getting away from the urban grind, 315, www.highgatehotel.com). Rates the location: bang in the middle of East Legon Backed by 16 acres of palm-studded grounds and a sweeping azure pool, Accra’s newest luxury bolthole is certainly living up to its with a birdsong-quiet pool area, a tennis court and a number of different restaurants and wine from US$160 double. Rooms 33. Credit V (5 per cent charge). Central city’s restaurants, night spots and business centres. One of the key Accra’s Oxford Street. While many will rejoice at having busy city delights at their fingertips, there is Expensive hype. Waiters on in-line skates glide across the gleaming patio, lounges. However, the property’s Paloma Hotel markets for the Kempinski Hotel the noise-factor to take into Royal Richester supplying fresh snacks and icy drinks to holidaymakers stretched main marketing push is its The Paloma Hotel has improved Expensive Gold Coast City will be business consideration, and light sleepers Far from a conventional hotel, Royal out on loungers around the pool; the onsite luxury shopping centre conferencing facilities – there’s a lot recently, with a major update. It’s Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel people – no wonder then, that they may wish to consider other options. Richester is a series of ‘Boston-style’ is filled with high-end goods, from catwalk fashions at Stellar of event space – so if you’re here still a simple, mid-priced two-star See Recommended box p74. have concentrated on an excellent The complex also has a fast food townhouses for long term stays or Deluxe (see p52) to Afrocentric art at Joe’s Perspective (see p61); during the week, there’s a good accommodation, offering 65 range of services. There will be a restaurant, lounge bar, bakery and short holidays (US$700 daily, Sankofa restaurant pleases with an array of international flavours, chance you’ll be sharing the hotel air-conditioned rooms and five Kempinski Hotel Gold fully equipped business centre, ice cream parlour. US$3,000 weekly). Each townhouse and the one2one cocktail lounge expertly whips up any favoured with a large number of delegates. chalets in the central Asylum Down Coast City indoor parking and a car and Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, tipple. There’s a great little deli by the shopping galleries, and the Bars (3). Business centre. Gym. area. Complimentary extras include Soon to be competing for centre limousine service. There are also (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. a living area, a kitchen, a dining restaurant is becoming very popular. It’s also worth saying that the Internet (wireless, shared terminal). breakfast, which can be taken in stage with Accra’s very finest hotels seven meeting rooms with the latest com). Rates US$85 double (plus tax). room, a lounge and a laundry room. breakfast is the best in the city right now. For more details on the Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants your room if preferred, and airport is the Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast audio-visual equipment, outside Rooms 20. Credit V. There is also a backyard. The (excellent) spa, tennis courts, sauna, and fitness centre; see p69. (3). Room service. Spa. TV. pick up/drop off. Sharing the hotel’s City: the hotel has a global meeting areas and a conference Bar (2). Internet. Restaurant (2). TV. standard and superior only have Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet (wireless, shared terminal). North Ridge (0302 214 244, complex are two restaurants, which reputation for doing things in style, centre measuring 1,750 sq m. single beds, so couples will need the Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants. Room service. Spa. TV. www.alisahotels.com). Rates offer a standard range of and this will doubtless be no Bar. Business centre. Gym. La Paradise Inn deluxe, executive or premium suites. Independence Avenue, Ridge (302 611 000, www.moevenpick-hotels. US$290-420. Rooms 173. Credit international cuisine, and a tour exception. Opening in 2014, the Internet. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants. In easy reach of the hubbub of Osu, There are also two apartments com). Rates from US$320 double. Rooms 260. Credit AmEx, MC, V. AmEx, MC, V. agency eager to show visitors impressive Kempinski Hotel Gold Room service. Spa. TV. you’ll find a selection of apartments Hotels Hotels (US$450 daily, US$2,250 weekly) and around the area. The fairly new Coast City Accra will mark the (024 143 44711, kempinski.com/ and a swimming pool at this friendly a luxury penthouse. Services include Mid-range Lexington (see p36) is becoming a Kempinski brand’s West African accra). Rooms 269. establishment. Self-catering options a recently refurbished spa, gym, new and upmarket residence offers a 15 First Circular Road, East Coconut Grove Regency Hotel particularly popular destination for debut, and it has the potential to be span one- and two-bedroom boutique shop, and a ‘rent-a-chef’ cool and calm experience. All rooms Cantonments (0302 770 007, Part of the same group that owns Accra’s expat community and Accra’s most dazzling hotel yet. The Novotel Accra apartments, all with living areas and service for private dining, but there have sizable beds, flat screen TVs, www.midindihotel.com). Rates the acclaimed Coconut Grove Beach travellers, with its excellent menu complex will expand over 35 This four-star family-friendly hotel kitchens, and there are also cheaper is also a bar, lounge and restaurant. wireless internet access and good US$230-$275 double. Rooms 27. Resort outside Elmina, this and cocktail list. There is an internet hectares and numerous buildings, might lack some of the pizzazz of studio apartments without cooking Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet. bathrooms (the suites have a Credit AmEx, MC, V. decade-old city property isn’t quite café nearby and guests can tap into including commercial and residential the beach resorts, but the Novotel’s facilities. A bar and a restaurant are Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. separate shower). It’s probably worth as enticing as its coastal cousin but the wireless in the hotel; a conference towers organised along a ‘broad selection of restaurants and facilities on hand, and business travellers will Room service. Spa. TV. splashing out on one of the very Mid-range still has considerable appeal. It offers centre seating 150 is also available. boulevard and esplanade’. The hotel provides ample entertainment for find the necessary facilities. 5 Richester Lane, East Legon, opp large suites if you need space. Some Mahogany Lodge just 36 rooms but has the feel of a The Paloma Hotel rewards frequent itself will have 269 rooms, all at least holidaymakers of all ages. The walls Bar. Internet. Pool. East Legon police station (0302 520 have balconies. There’s a small The Mahogany Lodge is a small hotel far bigger than that, and an visitors with substantial discounts, 50 sqm, including a pair of seriously are covered in local art, as part of a 4th Ostwe Street (302 762085, www. 784, www.royalrichester.com). Rates outdoor swimming pool, a restaurant 14-room hotel in a quiet but central elevated pool terrace makes it a sometimes up to 30 per cent – ask at snazzy presidential suites, and project to encourage arts in Accra. la-paradiseinn.com). Rates US$200-300 suite. Credit AmEx, and a basement conference room. location near the German Goethe- pleasant spot in which to unwind. reception for details. There’s also a guests will bask in comforts such as Sunshades and loungers line the US$90-110 double. Rooms 9. No MC, V. The bar is an excellent space, with a Institut. There’s a choice of standard Not all the red-brick exteriors are as branch in the Industrial Area (0302 an extensive spa with 10 treatment outdoor pool, while tennis courts and credit cards. large outdoor terrace, TVs showing and executive rooms, as well as aesthetically pleasing as they might 248 916). rooms and a hammam, yoga studios a fitness centre will keep exercise Cantonments sport and a comfortable seating area. Overall, a good option if you need to be in this area. two- and three-bedroom apartments. The rooms are simple, and best described as homely rather than be, it has to be said, but a location close to the city’s business and embassy quarter gives it an obvious Bar. Business centre. Internet (wireless). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurants (2). TV. and a fully kitted-out beauty salon. The hotel also promises an organic food bar, a cocktail bar, tennis courts fiends happily active. The hotel has several mealtime options including an international menu and buffet at Roots Hotel Apartment This tower of self-catering apartments is a comfortable and Expensive Bar. Business centre. Internet corporate, but not quite boutique – it pull and the rooms themselves are Ring Road Central (0302 228 700, and a flashy outdoor pool. There is a the Garden Brasserie and freshly convenient base in central Accra, Midindi Hotel (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. won’t win awards for design. decked out with traditional www.palomahotel.com). Rates host of onsite dining options, and baked pizzas at La Terrasse. Those just a block from Oxford Street. The Located in East Cantonments, just Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurant. Room Nevertheless, they’re comfortable Ghanaian designs. There’s a popular US$135-150 double. Rooms 65. the downtown location makes it a making the most of their holiday standard apartments are acceptable, by the US Embassy, this relatively service. TV. and perfectly adequate. The Mango Sunday brunch from 10am to 4pm Credit MC, V. convenient base for accessing the lie-ins can pick up a late breakfast at if a touch basic. It is worth 74 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 75 51 Beach Drive (0302 711 1118, www.africanroyalbeachhotel.com). Rates US$195-$215 double. Rooms 70. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Ramada Resort Beach views, tropical gardens and vibrant weekend entertainment from an array of performers treat guests at the Ramada Resort a pretty enticing package. The hotel’s 75 rooms are divided between 45 guest rooms and 30 garden chalets – some with great beach views. A hair salon, massage parlour and gym are available, and children are specifically catered for with a special children’s pool, play area and kids’ mealtime menu. The hotel also includes conference rooms and a business centre. Bar (2). Concierge. Business centre. Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Internet (wireless, free shared terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurant. Room service. Spa. TV. Awi Koonaa Street, off the Accra-Tema road (0302 717 235, www.ramadaresortaccra.com). Rates US$170 double; US$185 La Palm Royal Beach double chalet. Rooms 75. Credit AmEx, MC, V. upgrading to a superior room if suites, all renovated, each come with worth taking up this opportunity. possible as the difference is quite a private balcony, and the outdoor Facilities include a casino, fitness Rising Phoenix Magic pronounced. All are air-conditioned, area features a sizable swimming centre and spa and sauna. Meals can Beach Resort with well-equipped kitchenettes pool, with a smaller children’s pool be taken in the bar. There are several This beachfront resort offers an including fridge, cooker, microwave and fountain. Sporty types will be restaurants, including the Royal oasis of calm within minutes of and utensils. The suite, in fact a more than satisfied with the gym, Dragon Chinese restaurant and the central Accra. It was opened in 1997 duplex, has two double rooms and a floodlit tennis courts, volleyball Continental Restaurants – we’d avoid and given a major refurbishment in separate seating area. It is perfect for court and table tennis equipment; those and head to the open-sided and 2007. The 11 basic rooms have only families who require a bit more sauna and massage services are also thatched Ghanaian Village (0302 fans, but would appeal to space and like to be able to close the available. The resort has two bars 215100). It overlooking the beach, backpackers and budget travellers. door on the sleeping kids. For those and a restaurant to choose from. A and a great place to sample A new bar area was opened in 2010 times when a pre-prepared meal is new health centre will be opening in Ghanaian dishes such as red red and is used for evening parties and called for, there’s a cosy 7th floor August 2013. (bean stew with plantain). As an traditional shows. Other amenities restaurant with fantastic city views. Bar (2). Concierge. Business centre. added bonus there’s often live include a vegetarian restaurant and A café by the entrance downstairs is Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. highlife on weekend evenings – one a massage parlour where you can also a convenient, if somewhat steep, Internet (wireless, free shared of the few places to see it. join in a programme of holistic source of drinks and snacks. Those terminal). Parking. Pool. Restaurants. Bar (4). Concierge. Business centre. therapies, spiritual retreats and yoga. looking to stay for a while can Room service. Spa. TV. Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Dormitory rooms are available for negotiate a monthly rate. This is Labadi Beach (0302 772 501, www. Internet (wireless). Parking. Pool (2 around US$10. another great addition to hotels in labadibeach.com). Rates US$475 outdoor). Restaurants (4). Room Behind Ghana Telecom and the Osu area, especially given its double. Rooms 164. Credit AmEx, service. Spa. TV. Anglican Church, off High Street; price, which is one of the only MC, V. By Labadi Beach (302 215 100, Ushertown (0244 315 416, www. mid-priced options in Accra full stop. www.gbhghana.net). Rates US$370 magicbeachresort.com). Rates US$26 Bar. Gym. Internet. Restaurants. La Palm Royal Beach standard double. Rooms 152. Credit double. Rooms 11. Room service. TV. This hotel was once one of the best AmEx, MC, V. 15th Lane (0302 701 3276; info@ in Accra, but is being eclipsed by the Budget roots-hotel.com; www.roots-hotel. new front-runners. With this in Mid-range Afia African Village Hotels com). Rates from US$120. Rooms mind, it is going through a needed African Royal Beach Hotel If Afia African Village were any 37. Credit MC, V. refurbishment process. The rooms Situated between Accra and the closer to the sea, staff would need to have always been good. The 152 harbour town of Tema, African hand out scuba gear at the reception. Beach rooms (when they are all open) are based in round ‘chalets’ – the idea is that it’s a village complex. Standard Royal Beach Hotel doesn’t have an ideal location for those wanting to easily access city life. However, if This beachside complex is made up of the Afia Beach Hotel’s 29 rooms (nine rooms face the ocean), Tribes Expensive rooms are large, clean and well laid one objective is for a good dose of Bar and Restaurant offering Labadi Beach out, with a flatscreen TV, safe, relaxing by the pool, taking in sea Ghanaian and international cuisine, Labadi Beach is a well-maintained wireless, air conditioning, and have views, and even hopping on a hotel and the Afia Gallery – which is high-end resort that retains its comfy beds. It’s the lobby and bar bike to explore the nearby area, actually a shop – selling fabrics, colonial cool – the lobby is all ceiling that needs a bit of work – it’s not the then this bright hotel could be just jewellery and an assortment of fans, dark leather sofas and best introduction. This is a shame, what you’re looking for. The 70 wooden masks and carvings. The gold-coloured standing lamps. While because behind it is one of the best rooms, which each come with a complex is a little way out of the city tropical gardens, a turquoise pool pool complexes in Ghana, an ideal private balcony, have air- centre, although it is close to Black and spotless rooms do come at a way to spend a lazy Sunday. New is conditioning, satellite TV, fan and Star Square and Jamestown and, of cost, this has long been the top spot the La Palm Kids Theme Park, a telephone. Some of the rooms were course, the beach. for quality accommodation in Accra. pleasant and safe enclosed park a little tired when we visited, but Bar. Internet (shared terminal). Competition is becoming fierce right by the pool (see p64). Around the service was excellent. Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. however – especially given the the main pool there is also a shallow Bar. Concierge. Business centre. 2 Liberia Road, Extension Osu eye-watering rack rates of these pool which is perfect for the kids. All Internet (wireless, free shared (0302 681 465, www.afiavillage. rooms (keep an eye on promotions). pool facilities are open to non- terminal). Parking. Pool (outdoor). com). Rates US$100 double. Rooms Labadi’s pristine rooms and luxury residents for a small fee and it’s well Restaurant. Room service. TV. 29. Credit AmEx, MC, V. 76 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Around Ghana with attractive townships, picturesque beaches, and a scattering of forts worthy of a day, Ghana is often called ‘Africa for or in some cases a few days, of beginners’, and for good reason. exploration. Just a mere 25 While no-one’s pretending that you’re kilometres (15 miles) west of Accra, not going to encounter the odd bit of the palm-tree-strewn Kokrobite hassle here and there (particularly of Beach seems light-years away from the ‘my friend, my friend, where you the frantic capital. The most from?’ variety, which can have the important place here is the unfortunate effect of causing backpacker haven Big Milly’s overwariness), the country offers Backyard, which, as well as markedly less logistical headaches providing accommodation, keeps the than some of its regional party spirit in full flow with a beach counterparts. As a nation, it’s also bonfire and barbecue every Friday pretty damn friendly, as you’ll be and live reggae on Saturday nights. aware if you’ve spent a couple of Popular day-trips in the area include days soaking up the smiles. guided canoe trips through the These two factors combined make Lansdown Ibru Heights Densu River and wetlands, and visits Ghana a hugely inviting place to to Solo Forest Monkey Sanctuary travel around. It’s an eminently hire is available at Aburi Bike & Heights’ location. This new place is (
[email protected]), four manageable size for exploration, Hike Tours (024 420 9587), located not somewhere you’ll stumble across kilometres from Kokrobite. Heading being smaller than the UK, and just outside the botanical gardens. – it’s down a long and winding road, west along the coastal road, you’ll offers a full gamut of different They can provide tours, bikes and but that’s just how the owners want find the turning to neighbouring experiences. The north, with its self-guided routes around the area. it. This is a smart villa complex in dwellings Fete and Senya Beraku mud-sculpted buildings and heavy the lush folds of the hills around – set six kilometres apart – each Islamic influence, is effectively a Aburi Botanical Gardens Aburi. Judging by the Range Rovers with their own attractions. For a slice completely different destination to This national park, with the Accra lined up outside, it’s also pretty of history and cliff-top views head to coastal Ghana, while the national plains to its south and forest to its exclusive. It takes around an hour Senya Beraku’s 18th century Fort of parks that colour the countryside are north, was established in 1890. The from Accra (although road Good Hope. The quiet fishing high in potential for adventure. park runs a school of horticulture improvements mean that time will villages are a slice of unadulterated The majority of visitors will take and consists of ten lawns with more reduce), but it’s worth it. There are coastal Ghana. the highway west out of Accra in than 375 varying plant types and eight villas, each with three Also along this road is the this region. There’s no shortage of more than 100 acres of natural bedrooms, a living area, jacuzzi and exclusive White Sands resort. This attractions and sights to be seen forest with nature trails. The park is patio. They are well-appointed and members-only property has along the coast, among them Cape popular with bird and butterfly tastefully decorated. The villas are gorgeous chalets, an excellent Coast Castle, Kakum National Park, watchers, and it’s a great destination also pretty reasonably priced at $400 beachside restaurant and a bar by an the almost overpoweringly colourful for picnics under the shade of for two people – it’s not expensive infinity pool. Elmina and the twin city of 160-year-old kapok trees. for the sake of being expensive. The lively fishing harbour of Sekondi-Takoradi, which has Aburi Botanical Gardens, Aburi, There’s a conference suite seating Winneba, with its sizable beach and witnessed an influx of workers Akwiapim (024 877 2227). Open around 24 (actually one of the main European and Royal cemeteries, is following the discovery of oil. 8am-4pm Mon-Fri. Admission businesses here), and a gorgeous also a worthy stop-off on the journey GH¢3. pool overlooking the valley. The from Accra to Cape Coast. Turn Getting around open club house and restaurant south at Akamu for another pretty It’s relatively easy to get from A to B Ateba-Atwirebu Butterfly above the pool are lovely spots to fishing harbour, Apam, and spend – all the country’s main roads are Sanctuary watch the clouds roll out in an extremely basic but undeniably well served by public transport – Just north of Kyebi is the the morning, or listen to novel night in Dutch-built Fort although countless hours in a sweaty, cramped tro-tro might not be home of Africa’s largest butterfly, the Top tip! the sound of the bush in the evening. It’s all Leydsaamsheid (Fort Patience). A further 30 kilometres (19 miles) everyone’s idea of fun. Far better in ‘Papillio Antimactus’, Getting around built on a hill, so you’ll towards Cape Coast is Mankessim terms of comfort (although slightly making the forest a Flights can often be be working off the – worth a quick look for its more pricey) are the buses that ply must for any butterfly a surprisingly cheap food from a menu that particularly large posuban shrine. the routes between the major centres. watchers. The woods option for travel to includes lamb tagine, There’s an attractive beach and a And the travel pains are more than are alive with Kumasi, Tamale and T-bone steak, paella striking shrine at Saltpond, and fine offset by the recompense of visiting birdsong and there are Takoradi. and traditional views from Fort Amsterdam, the outlying areas. Many parts of the more than 150 different Ghanaian food. There’s a first British fort to be built on the country experience very few foreign species of flora and fauna. spa and a tennis court too. Gold Coast, a couple of kilometres travellers, so you’re virtually Aburi (026 960 1541, www. from the town. Stop off at Anomabu guaranteed a memorable welcome. Tetteh Quarshie’s Cocoa Farm lansdownaburi.com). Villa $400 for for Fort William, a sandstone church To come to Ghana and restrict This was the first cocoa farm in two people. and a collection of shrines. The yourself to Accra is to take just one Ghana and the birthplace of Ghana’s nearby fishing village of Biriwa has bite of the buffet – far better to tuck burgeoning cocoa industry. The Getting there a stunning stretch of beach. into the whole country. original seedlings were brought Taxis or private cars are the best Trips Out of Town from Fernando Po Island just off the ways to get to Aburi. Minibuses Where to eat & stay Aburi coast of Equatorial Guinea by the eponymous farmer in 1879. There are three of the original trees. (tro-tros) leave from Odawna station near the Kwame Nkrumah Circle. Bah’doosh Bar, Hostel and Restaurant Bah’doosh is a bar and restaurant There are a few places to visit that are worthy as a day trip. Aburi is Contact the caretaker at the Mampong Chief’s Palace for entry. Accra to with recently opened accommodation facilities. It is owned by a friendly only an hour or two’s drive from downtown Accra. It’s a small town 30 kilometres from the city centre, There’s little to see (don’t expect a visitor centre or shop), but a guide will take you around the plantation Cape Coast Australian, and serves basic breakfasts and a good selection of drinks right on the beach. The bar is but once you head past the Tetteh for a few cedi – get the price first. While the 165 kilometres (103 miles) open 24 hours a day, and plays Quarshie Circle and Accra Mall, the Mampong, Akwapim, a couple of of road linking Accra’s urban chill-out tunes when someone isn’t city feels very far away as you climb miles north of Aburi Omanye House sprawl with historic Cape Coast may strumming a guitar. Most of the up into the cooler and wetter hills. (0302 769 536). Admission GH¢4. appear to hold little attraction – food comes off the grill, including The biggest attraction here is the other than as an unsettlingly bumpy, the excellent Bah’doosh burger. Aburi Botanical Gardens, but if you Where to stay and in places rather busy, route There is also a wide fish selection, want to escape the heat of the city Lansdown Ibru Heights between the two cities – travellers depending on what was landed that for a few hours there are plenty of ‘Hidden away’ doesn’t really do the willing to venture short distances morning. Accommodation is mainly outdoor activities. Mountain bike justice to the Lansdown Ibru from the main road will be rewarded in bungalows. Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 79 of serenity. You’ll have to look ramparts at the late-afternoon Sanaa Lodge disquieting) tour. For GH¢8, plus a elsewhere for your endless traffic hubbub of fishermen and red-dust This is probably the most upmarket little extra if you’re taking photos, jams. This isn’t to say it doesn’t feel footballers, it’s hard not to be stirred hotel in Cape Coast since the closure visitors can explore the dungeons lived in, but the atmosphere is more by the human cost of its past. of Eshu. Billed as three-star, it’s a and stairways of the interior (unlike redolent of a coastal community To harness your inner musician, comfortable option with 29 Cape Coast Castle, guides here will than a big, bad metropolis. meanwhile, try the regular half-day air-conditioned rooms and cable TV. ask for a tip of GH¢10). On a more Pastel-hued fishing boats fringe the drumming and dancing workshops Four of the rooms are suites. There’s upbeat note, the courtyard adjacent beaches, groups of schoolkids trip from Women in Progress (www. also a swimming pool, restaurant, to the castle sees a local group going along in the sunshine and dinky womeninprogress.org, 0244 530 467, bar and grill, shops, internet café, through drumming and dancing shops and houses create a US$11). The organisation – which business centre, fitness centre, secure rehearsals each evening from around through-the-ages architectural supports fair-trade project Global parking and conference facilities. 5pm to 6pm – a diverting sight if mishmash. Past the lagoons on the Mamas – also offers workshops in Located near the Ministry of Health you can make it. edge of town, meanwhile, are some batik-making (US$16) and Ghanaian (042 32570, www.sanaalodge.com). The other skyline-dominating of the most enticing swathes of cookery (US$11). Double US$60-80). building you’ll notice is the beach in the country. seventeenth-century fort on St Jago All of which makes it Where to eat Getting there Hill. It was from this hilltop that the unsurprising that Cape Coast is such Castle Beach Restaurant Four buses a day head to Cape Coast Dutch successfully bombarded the a tourist draw. The centre is an For location and ambience, it’s hard from Accra’s main STC station on Portuguese-occupied castle – they Food on sale at Kokrobite Beach appealing place in which to watch to top the Castle Beach Restaurant the Ring Road, costing around built the fort to ensure no one would and wander – particularly down by adjacent to the castle. It’s an GH¢10. Those with private transport be able to dislodge them in the same Kokrobite (027 320 4425, Gomoa-Fetteh, off the Main Accra the crescent-shaped harbour – but atmospheric spot with dark-wood should drive west along the coastal way. Elsewhere in town, the www.bahdoosh.com). Main courses to Winneba road (021 773 070, while there’s an intoxicating feel to platforms and wide green bamboo road from Accra. The journey takes remarkable Elmina-Java Museum is GH¢5-8.50. www.whitesands.com.gh). the pace of life here, it also has a screens, with several areas giving between two and three hours, slowed well worth investigating. It focuses Elmina sharply sobering history. You’ll most diners good sea views. There’s a by umpteen speed bumps en route. on the more than 3,000 Ghanaians Big Milly’s Backyard Getting there likely be aware of Cape Coast Castle lengthy menu of coconut curries, Frequent tro-tros drive the few recruited by the Dutch in the 19th Those unwinding in Kokrobite can Many of the destinations along the already (Barack and Michelle stir-fries and seafood dishes. kilometres between Elmina and Cape century to fight for the Royal enjoy fresh and tasty meals at Big coastal road – including Kokrobite, Obama visited in 2009 to much Next to castle (028 729 0539). Main Coast. When getting back from Netherlands East Indies Army. Milly’s onsite restaurant. The menu Senya Beraku and Winneba – can be fanfare) – it was here that some of courses GH¢12-25. Elmina, hop into a shared taxi in the As elsewhere in the Fante region, includes fabulously fresh seafood accessed via direct tro-tros from the worst atrocities of the slave Chapel Square area. Elmina is also noted for its posuban such as lobster and barracuda, as Accra’s Kaneshie bus station on trade era were committed. The city Baobab Vegetarian Restaurant shrines – each of them dedicated to well as a wide selection of vegetarian options, including apple and potato rosti, roasted pumpkin Winneba Road. If using private was founded by the Portuguese in transport, take the coastal road west the 15th century, and the solid white of Accra. The sign-posted Kokrobite bulk of the castle acted first as a This little place is the base for the fundraising arm of the Baobab Children Foundation. There is an Elmina one of the quasi-military ‘companies’ formed by bands of young men – which generally take the form of and sweet potato salad and mixed turning is around 22 kilometres (14 fortified base for overseeing the excellent little shop stocking all Is there a more colourful vision in concrete oddities surrounded by roast vegetables with couscous. It’s miles) from the city. The turn-off for export of gold and other goods manner of eco-friendly, fair trade Ghana than Elmina’s fishing port on painted life-size figures. also open for breakfast. There is Fete and Senya Beraku is roughly 40 before ‘market forces’ initiated a and recycled goods, including a clear morning? This masculine good, basic accommodation at Big kilometres (24 miles) from Accra; the move into human trafficking. cosmetics, art works and fine kente little town subjects the visitor to a Where to eat & stay Milly’s too. Double huts with a fan road then forks, heading left for Fete A tour of the site today makes for cloth. It has an adjoining vegetarian whirl of sights, sounds and smells As a general rule, the best places to cost GH¢29, and self-contained huts and right to Senya Beraku. The a harrowing, but undeniably snack bar with dishes of tofu, salads like nowhere else on the coast. The eat in Elmina tend to be found at the with air conditioning are GH¢59. six-kilometre road to Winneba lies a salutary, visit. Thousands upon and fruits, many from its organic clatter and chatter of the fish market best places to stay. In the town Single rooms are GH¢22 a night further 18 kilometres (11 miles) thousands of West African men farm. The organisation also has five is a world unto itself and truly a centre, there’s affordable, delicious (GH¢59 with bathroom and AC), west from the Fete/Senya and women were imprisoned rooms in Cape Coast. sight to behold – a swarming Ghanaian fare to be had at the dorm rooms are GH¢12. Houses are Beraku turning; Saltpond, within the castle’s Commercial Street (0244 723 241, rainbow palette of batik dresses and Bridge House, which, as the name available to rent for groups too. Kokrobite (024 999 330, 0242 206 Anomabu and Biriwa can all be found Top tip! scratched dungeon walls – in truly www.baobab-children-foundation.de) Where to stay football shirts offset by great tubs of crabs, squid and mahi-mahi, all suggests, is next to Elmina’s hugely important bridge. 961, www.bigmilly.com). Main directly on the coastal Tipping horrific conditions dominated by the painted hulls of courses GH¢11-20. road, with Saltpond Guides will try to pick you – before passing the Hans Cottage Botel newly returned pirogues, themselves Bridge House roughly 50 kilometres up at castles and in ‘Door of No Return’ This rather singular property lies strewn with flags and washing. The Bridge House is a no-frills Tills No 1 Hotel (31 miles) on from the towns. They’ll often say and being shipped off around 10 minutes along the road to When you factor in a supporting property with a superb location. It For quality seafood to accompany Winneba turning, free, then demand a tip. to the Americas, the Kakum National Park. It’s notable cast of goats, chickens and was the first merchant house built Fetteh’s idyllic beach setting try the followed, less than ten Arrange first. majority of them not principally for the crocodiles that wheeling birds of prey, not to by the Dutch. The hotel is owned by restaurant at Tills No 1 Hotel. kilometres along, by surviving to reach their patrol its lake (and occasionally its mention the oven-door heat blast, the same business as the Coconut There’s a good jambalaya, king Anomaba final destination. To establish bar-restaurant), but there’s plenty of it’s quite a scene. Grove Hotel. Rooms four, six and prawns and red snapper, all landed and Biriwa. a clearer understanding of the passable accommodation on offer, With the salty Benya Lagoon on eight all have great views of the nearby. There’s a barbecue for crushing reality of the period, the and its location makes it a haven for one side and the sealife-laden harbour. Facilities include air- groups and a wide range of Ghanaian dishes. Accommodation is in one of 16 two-star rooms with Cape Coast 45-minute guided tour (included in the ticket price) comes highly recommended. There’s also a birdlife. There’s a wide mixture of chalets, double and family rooms available to ‘experience the joy and Atlantic on the other, Elmina had its key industries – salt and fish – handily laid out by Mother Nature. conditioned rooms, showers, wireless internet access and safes. The food is very good and can be taken on a phone, TV and air conditioning. You Cape Coast might be the former museum on site. The Castle is now comfort of a sleep’. There’s also a The town, once a key port in the terrace overlooking the bridge. can hear the ocean from the rooms. capital city, but when held up listed as a World Heritage Site, and gift shop, restaurant and bar (main African gold trade, is believed to Elmina, by bridge (042 91261, www. There are discounts for long stays against Accra, it’s the very picture gazing down today from its old courses GH¢6-18). have adopted its name from the coconutgrovehotelsghana.com). and breakfast is included. On road to Kakum National Park Portuguese term for this section of Double US$40. Gomoa-Fetteh, off the Main Accra to (042 91456, www.hansbotel.com). coast: Da Costa de el Mina de Ouro Trips Out of Town Trips Out of Town Winneba road (027 755 0480, Double from GH¢35; chalets (The Coast of Gold Mines). Today it Coconut Grove Beach Resort www.tillsbeachhotel.com). Double GH¢75-200. might play second fiddle to nearby This hotel is widely considered one GH¢70-80. Cape Coast in the tourist stakes, but of the top spots on the coast for Mighty Victory Hotel it’s not always easy to see why. high-end accommodation, and can be White Sands Beach The Mighty Victory Hotel is a decent From a historical perspective, the found just three kilometres west of Resort & Spa option for those in search of key attraction is Elmina Castle. Like Elmina itself. The Ocean View Those willing to splash some cash mid-range accommodation – a its Cape Coast equivalent, it has Restaurant here is best surmised by for the millionaire treatment can stay double with fan goes for US$25, strong links with the slave years and a look at its guestbook: previous at the deluxe private members White while those with air conditioning are is registered as a World Heritage diners include Serena Williams, Jesse Sands Beach Club near Fetteh; slide US$40 a night. All rooms have a TV Site, although it tops Cape Coast Jackson, Will Smith and (wow!) John into the infinity pool, sample the and shower. There is room service Castle on age; founded in 1482, Prescott. The dishes range from top-notch cuisine and enjoy some of and a restaurant serves breakfast, Elmina Castle (also known as St GH¢15-35 and there’s an emphasis on the best service in Ghana. It’s lunch and dinner. There’s also a bar, George’s) is the oldest extant seafood. It’s unlikely to disappoint. exclusive enough to require you to gardens, conference suite, wheelchair European building in sub-Saharan It’s also home to Ghana’s largest email
[email protected] access and internet access. Africa. It’s had a few facelifts over conference facility outside of Accra before even seeing prices. However, E.30 A/3 Aboom Close (042 30135, the years and little resembles the and – on a slightly more interesting non-members can visit between www.mightyvictoryhotel.com). original structure, but still makes for note – a crocodile pond. There’s an Cape Coast Castle Mon-Fri. Doubles US$25-40. a fascinating (not to mention hugely 18-hole golf course (flat and slightly 80 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 81 parched), a swimming pool and estimate). Most visitors here tend to North Sea Restaurant. The dishes at Stellar Lodge & Apartments offers a range of local and tennis courts, as well as access to a be businesspeople, engineers and this German-owned restaurant (yes, The Stellar Lodge is run by the international dishes. While the park delightful strip of beach. There are other oil workers, the upside of another one) include lobster Stellar Group (Lexington), and is can be easily visited in a day from 59 standard rooms, seven family which is that there are some good provençal and grouper fish gratin, only a couple of minutes from the Cape Coast and the surrounding units, three executive suites and four hotels and restaurants, mostly as well as good pizza. There is also airport. Each of the 52 rooms (30 in area, there is accommodation in the large family suites. All rooms have around the quiet beachfront area. chicken with jollof rice and other the first block and 22 new park itself. Located four kilometres air conditioning, showers, TV and People do swim in the sea here but, Ghanaian dishes. It offers some apartments) has HD plasma screens, from Cape Coast and 12 kilometres wireless internet facilities. as all along the coast, there’s a imported beers on tap and a happy satellite TV, air conditioning, a from Kakum is Hans Cottage Botel (042 91213, www. strong undercurrent. The beach hour with half-price drinks between security safe and secure wireless (see p80) which provides an array of coconutgrovehotelsghana.com). itself is clean and uncrowded. It’s 6-7pm every Friday. internet access. There’s also a guest houses, suites, private rooms Double US$162-262. also from here that coast and Axim Road (031 29131 www. laundry service, 24-hour reception, and dorms. sport-fishing boats can be hired. northsea-restaurant.com). Main gym and swimming pool. Elmina Bay Resort Book through Captain Hook’s (Beach courses GH¢14-30. Open 10am- Shippers Council Road (03120 Getting there A couple of minutes’ drive farther Road, 031 20 27085). 11pm daily. 32777/26998, www.stellarlodge.com). Signposts to the Kakum National out of town lies the secluded new The difference between the serene Double US$145-278. Park are found along the Jukwa Elmina Bay Resort, not to be beachfront and the commercial Where to stay road, roughly 33 kilometres (20 confused with Elmina Beach Resort. centre of Takoradi couldn’t be Africa Beach Hotel Getting there miles) from Cape Coast. Jump on a There are 26 rooms available for starker. At the very heart of town is A moderately priced option is the STC buses travel between Takoradi tro-tro heading to Jukwa from any guests, which are notable for their Market Circle, a disorientating waterside Africa Beach Hotel. The and Accra several times a day. They Cape Coast stop. cleanliness and bright style. All have frenzy of colour, noise and smells. accommodation comprises chalets take around four hours for the quick sea views, and beach access is excellent. All rooms have DSTV, Wi-Fi, a fridge and air-conditioning. Lorries full of yams are unloaded, machete-wielding coconut sellers lop off around a large pool and thatched bar, with air-conditioning, satellite TV, radio and service. The buses leave Accra from the main STC bus station and arrive next to the North Sea Restaurant (see Kumasi There’s also a pool and a restaurant – the best bet around Elmina. tops and stick in straws, and a Top tip! tea and coffee facilities. The rooms left) in Takoradi. Although the only airport in If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to have all five senses forcefully By Coconut Grove Beach Resort (054 bewildering array of Beaches are basic and a little Takoradi is the military air base, assaulted at the same time – and if 161 4812, www.elminabayresort. goods are paraded The Gulf of Guinea may dated, but there are regular direct flights to the whirl of Accra isn’t heart- com). Double US$125-145. past on head-tops: look inviting on a hot day, comfortable. There Accra, something that will certainly pumping enough – hop on an STC Kakum National Park sunglasses, dried fish, but the currents are are three with views increase as the oil business picks up bus and head five hours north to How to get there flip flops and exceptionally over a rocky beach momentum. Fly STarbow (024 500 Ghana’s second city. To describe Elmina is located two kilometres off colanders. Farther into strong. and the Gulf of 0000, www.flystarbow.com) flies to Kumasi as hectic is an who subsequently became the elaborate dancing, ceremonial well connected to Ghana’s north. For the main Takoradi-Accra road. It is the centre, meanwhile, an Guinea, which would be Takoradi from Kotoka International understatement. It’s more crowded realm’s first leader. The current umbrellas, rainbow robes and a travellers, this holds the obvious connected to Cape Coast by frequent almost exclusively female sales our choice. A swimming beach Airport in small Embraer 110 than the capital, more energised, and Asante king is actually a direct general air of fantasy: it’s an event benefit of being able to include the tro-tros and shared taxis. force hawk colourful vegetables, is nearby, as is a poorly kept 18-hole aircraft. It is a 35-minute flight. in many ways more intoxicating. descendant of Osei Tutu, and the that perfectly encapsulates the city as part of a wider itinerary but, chilli peppers, fish and meat. golf course. Antrak Air (0302 782 814, That’s not to decry Accra, of course, fact that he not only still lives in culture’s colourful vitality. Visitors more than that, also makes it Takoradi- Where to eat Beach Road (031 20 25148, www.africabeachhotel.com). www.antrakair.com) also has daily flights from Accra. but simply to say that there are huge differences between the two cities. Kumasi, but is considered by many locals to be a more important figure are welcome to attend, and the experience is highly recommended. somewhere that, for all its proud Asante heritage, draws in copious Sekondi Captain Hook’s One of the most popular places for expats to eat is the German-run Double US$85-90. Planter’s Lodge Kakum Perhaps the main reason for Kumasi’s reputation is the gargantuan sprawl of Kejetia than the president, tells you all you After all, how often do you get to call need to know about how relevant the in on a king? Asante culture remains today. Like all areas of the country, the influences from other areas of the country. If there’s anywhere away from Accra and the coast that shows The two towns of Sekondi-Takoradi are together known as the Twin City. In reality, they should be known as Captain Hook’s, which at one time was related to the restaurant in Accra, but now, despite an almost This is the finest residence in Takoradi, and one of the nicest in all Ghana. Set among acres of green National Park Market, often described as the largest of its kind in West Africa. It occupies around 12 hectares in the It’s estimated that there are close to seven million ethnic Asante in modern Ghana, or a fifth of the Kumasi region has various different faces. While the city itself runs along at a breathless pace and a just how Ghana’s evolving from year to year, this is the place. the triplets. Takoradi is split into two identical menu, is autonomous. The lawns, this colonial-style house is Half an hour’s drive from Cape very centre of the city and provides country’s population, and a visit to one-minute walk can take you past Where to eat separate areas: a beachside area with restaurant focuses on seafood, with filled with heavy dark antique Coast, Kakum National Park’s a place of work for some 10,000 the region is by far the best way to roadside barbers, ranting evangelists Substantial platefuls of Chinese food hotels and restaurants and, a couple dishes such as sole meunière and furniture, a throwback to its heritage verdant slice of semi-deciduous traders. It is hot, raucous and explore the culture’s roots. Kumasi and snarling traffic horns, the can be acquired at the Quick Bite of miles inland, its naughty big lobster, but there are also steaks. as a Royal Air Force lodge for flying rainforest offers a fresh green endlessly colourful. You can wander itself was the scene of lengthy countryside surrounding it, by Fast Food, a local favourite in the brother, the frantic hub of life in the Hemingway’s Bar (what else would officers in the 1930s. The rooms, alternative to the bustling cities and it for hours, never tracing the same battles between British colonialists comparison, is a haven of peace. centre of town (Permpeh 11 Rd, city, the centrepiece of which is a it be called?) is a popular nautically- especially the executive suites, stifling heat of the coast (033 21 302 patch of ground twice. A maze of and early Asante tribesmen – the The fertile green landscapes around Adum), or head to The Dish (6th St, raucous circular market – one of the themed pub, with a central bar continue this theme, some with 265, www.kakumnationalpark.info, open lanes and covered alleyways city was burnt to the ground as Kumasi are still home to many of off Hudson Rd, 032 20 30 355) for a most colourful in Ghana. Situated an propped up by Captain Hook’s four-poster beds. The bungalow 8am-4pm). The 607 square spreads and curves in every recently as 1874 – and the Prempeh the states and settlements initially more laid-back atmosphere and hour west of Elmina, the city regulars night after night. suites, a short walk from the main kilometres (234 square miles) of direction, revealing specialist zones II Jubilee Museum gives a good brought together under the Asante reasonably priced fare. The Kentish emerges after miles of sugar and Beach Road (031 20 27085). Main house, are more modern, and all protected rainforest are home to an selling almost everything historical overview of this and other banner in the 17th century. This Kitchen at the Centre for National palm-oil plantations, circling courses GH¢25-60. Open 6pm-1am. rooms have flatscreen TVs and assortment of wild residents, imaginable. Soap and shoes, beads episodes. Among its exhibits is the means there are large numbers of Culture offers a selection of vultures and vendors on the side of Credit MC, V. wireless. The restaurant is very including forest elephants, giant and underwear, pans and drums, fake golden stool that was cultural sites to visit, almost all authentic dishes. the road selling freshly killed, or good, with dishes such as beef with hogs, flying squirrels, leopards and hens and yams, fish and footballs, handed over in an attempt of them possible to cooked, savanna cane-rat (known pistachio oil and raspberry vinegar, various species of monkey. However, spices and shea butter. to fool the British. incorporate as Where to stay locally as grass-cutter – they’re Champs Sports Bar & Restaurant and smoked black peppered prawns with much of the elusive wildlife The market itself has hazy Close by to the Top tip! day-trips from the city Golden Tulip Hotel around GH¢25 for lunch on the go). Located adjacent to Stellar Lodge is in a fusion sauce. This is one of buried deep in the forest’s flora, borders, so its energy spills out into museum is the Kumasi’s kings itself. Attractions Set in tropical gardens and in the Takoradi (or Tadi, as Sekondi- Champs Sports Bar and Restaurant, Ghana’s best hotels and certainly there’s little chance of seeing the surrounding streets and Okomfo Anokye Every sixth Sunday, range from traditional centre of Asante’s business district Takoradi is generally called an international bar popular with one of its most relaxing. The anything more than a millipede or neighbourhoods, making central Sword, which has the Asante king opens Obosomfie fetish is the elegant 160-room Golden Tulip collectively) has entered into the expatriates and locals. It has large gardens are exceptionally quiet. two unless spending a night on an Kumasi a kind of ongoing flow of stood half-submerged his doors to the public shrines (every bit as Hotel. It’s the only really consciousness of Ghana, and that of HD screens showing major (031 20 22233, www.planterslodge. organised camping trip. For those life, noise and trade. Car radios boom for 300 years, marking in a display of curious as they international-standard hotel in the Trips Out of Town Trips Out of Town the international community, international sports fixtures and com). Double US$160-350. content with gazing at the greenery out hiplife tracks. Vendors with the spot where the heritage sound) to Asante art city. There are also several because of the oil trade. It’s off the events. On the menu is a selection of to a soundtrack of birdcalls, try the head-perched baskets wind golden stool is said to galleries and authentic apartments, each with a kitchenette coast here that up to three billion Ghanaian and international dishes. Raybow International Hotel canopy walk (Ghanaian GH¢14, through the pavement crowds. have first appeared. Kente-weaving communities. and living room. It’s popular with barrels of light oil are estimated to Particularly good are its prime South Another superb option in Tadi is the non-Ghanaian GH¢40). Elevated 40 Strong-armed women pound fufu If you really want to experience If you have a few days to spare, conference visitors who use the be. Large-scale exploration is African beef and its deli options. Raybow International Hotel. Modern metres above the forest floor, the outside kitchens. Kumasi is a hugely something to tell the folks back the region gives opportunity for many spaces, including conference ongoing and the service industry in The good customer service, food and art from some of Ghana’s best 350-metre-long wooden walkway absorbing place to be. home though, time your trip to unrushed investigation. room that can take 450 delegates. Takoradi is bracing itself for time as reasonable prices make it a great artists, in particular Kobina Nyarko, and various viewing platforms offer But the city, as you’ll no doubt be Kumasi to coincide with the Adae. Towns and villages with good There is a bar and restaurant, tennis a fully-fledged boom town. option in Takoradi. There are hangs around the large complex. spectacular, if vertiginous, views of aware, is about far more than simple Held every sixth Sunday, when the potential for cultural travellers courts, shop, casino and two lovely Predictions of an endless throughput various events on throughout the The rooms are tiled and cool, with the park, although it is unlikely street-level dynamism. Asante current king opens the gates of the include Effiduase, Ejisu – renowned pools, one for children. It’s about a of oil workers are only just coming week to look out for. wicker furniture and colonial-style much wildlife will be seen. There is a culture occupies a special place in royal palace to accept homage from as the birthplace of Yaa Asantewaa, 20-minute drive from the airport. to fruition, but there are big plans. Shippers Council Road (03120 accessories. There are also larger simple but informative visitors’ national life, and Kumasi and its his people, it showcases the Asante a legendarily brave Asante Queen Rain Tree Street (032 20 83 777, For sightseers, Sekondi has a 32777/23808, info.lodge@ chalets and villa apartments. All centre with information on the flora surrounds have provided its beating lifestyle at its most traditional. In its Mother – and Adanwomase, the www.goldentulipkumasicity.com). Dutch fort and a colonial railway stellar-africa.com). Open rooms have free wireless and and fauna, a café and decent gift heart ever since a loose confederation pomp, the Asante controlled several latter being a good place to learn Double US$150-330. station in what is still known as 5am-late daily. satellite TV. There is a small pool shop administered by the Ghana of local tribes was banded into a goldmines – and, rather more more about Kente and its production. ‘European Town’, but there’s little next to an open-sided bar and a Heritage Conservation Trust. single regional kingdom – the regrettably, several slave routes – so Kumasi’s central location makes it Lake Bosomtwe Paradise cultural heritage in Takoradi, despite North Sea Restaurant thatched seating area. Asante – in the 1670s. It’s said that a its wealth was at times enormous, a a busy transport hub – almost all Resort Hotel it being Ghana’s fourth most A cheaper option, but also (031 20 22072, www.raybowhotel. Where to eat and stay golden stool descended from heaven fact still evident in some of its main roads in the south wind up This is a relaxing lakeside stopover. populous city (445,205 – 2012 well-renowned for its seafood, is com). Double US$186-195. Kakum National Park’s onsite café and fell into the lap of Osei Tutu, rituals. Expect drumming displays, there eventually – and it’s similarly Built in 2000, it has 20 simple and 82 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 83 stylish rooms overlooking the lake large too, and the presidential suite from the foot of the nearby has a private plunge pool. Those not mountains. Activities include boat willing to splash out quite so much rides and tours to villages. can splash around the lovely pool Abono, near Kuntanase, Lake that also overlooks the river. There’ll Bosomtwe, 032 2020 164). Double be all the usual amenities: spa, shop, US$55-65. business centre, restaurant and lounge bar, while the conference suite Volta Region with two break-out rooms and meeting areas is well equipped. & Eastern There are canoes and launches for playing on the (crocodile-free) river. Highlands There are plans for a nine-hole golf course, a football pitch, basketball court and kids play area among As you head east out of Accra, and other attractions. pass the industry of Tema, the land Senchi Ferry Road, Senchi (0303 turns greener, the villages quieter 409 170, www.theroyalsenchi.com). and there’s just a hint of adventure Standard $315, suites $515. about the land. Rocky outcrops jut out of the savannah, slowly turning to hill ranges, cut with valleys and Adi Lake Mole National rivers. On the route between Tema and Akosombo, 31 miles (50 kilometres) from Accra, is the Shia (see below). Leaving the heat of the coast or the dusty aridity of the There are three national parks around Lake Volta and the Volta Park Hills Resource Reserve. It is the north, the region’s soft green hills region. Digya National Park, on the Mole (pronounced Mo-lay) National nearest wildlife reserve to the city. and fertile fields are a refreshing western shores of Lake Volta, Park is Ghana’s biggest wildlife The 52 square kilometres of sight. In Hohoe itself, the Taste compromises 3,478 square sanctuary. For practical purposes, savannah that make up the park are Lodge (0935 22023) is the smartest kilometres (1,342 square miles) of the place to stay is Mole Motel (027 home to at least 175 species of bird, accommodation option. woodland and parts of the lake. 756 4444), the only hotel inside the 31 different species of mammal and The smaller villages in the This little visited park is home to park. Situated on the edge of an 13 species of reptiles. Nearby are the surrounding landscape make for colobus monkeys, antelopes, escarpment and looking out over a Se Yo and Obonu Tem caves, located captivating day-trips, and one of the clawless otters, crocodiles and the waterhole, it’s somewhere where in hills around the area. The vestiges highlights of the region is park’s emblem, the manatee. Digya monkey-watching becomes just of the former Shai community, Wli-Afegame, a peaceful and means black rhinoceros, which is another part of breakfast, lunch or which was abandoned after its charming village 17 kilometres (11 now extinct here. dinner. In the dry season, it’s not people were forced out over a miles) east of Hohoe next to the uncommon for elephants to pay century ago by the rulers of the Togo border. Its main attraction is, Where to stay sneaky visits to the hotel’s time, can also be seen in some areas of course, the waterfall – Ghana’s Adi Lake Resort swimming pool. There are 93 of the reserve. highest. The lower part of the falls While the Royal Senchi Resort mammal species in the park, Farther along is Akosombo, the can be visited easily by following a (below) is by far the best including buffalo, warthogs, hippos gateway to the Volta Region and smooth, criss-crossing path through accommodation in the region, this and several antelope species. where the town’s famous dam partly the forest, and has subsequently resort is a good budget alternative. The park office next to the motel holds in the largest artificial body of developed into a popular spot for With nights from GH¢100, it also acts as the meeting point for water on the planet, Lake Volta, and locals and tourists alike. In contrast, makes a good bolthole. While localised game walks, or 4x4 tours supplies much of the country with the upper part of the waterfall is nothing like the resorts such as Big much deeper into the Mole Park. electricity. This is the heart of more strenuous to discover, but Milly’s to the west of Accra, it’s still Bicycles can be rented, giving Ghana. It covers 8,502 square more intimate and solitary as a a pleasant enough place. The travellers a chance to explore the kilometres (3,275 square miles) and, result. The way up is ten rooms are very basic nearby area. before 1965, didn’t exist. It is, no steep and narrow, and (en suite bathroom, Despite the hotel and park office, doubt, a wonder of modern Africa. the humidity can Top tip! TV), but the real there is very little in the way of But while the engineering feats are make the hike Wildlife spotting attractions are the tourist infrastructure. This is seen remarkable, it is now an essential exhausting. Wildlife, of course, knows garden filled with by many as a positive thing, and one part of Ghana’s natural history. Fortunately, the no boundaries, but Mole mango trees, the consequence is that it has become an The southern end of Lake Volta is rainbow shimmer of National Park is the most outside bar and important place for scientific study, also a popular weekend destination flowers and insects, developed place to see restaurant and its particularly in relation to poaching for visitors escaping the city. The coupled with Ghana’s fauna. position overlooking a and sustainability, very new and impressive Royal stupendous views down river and hills. Two hours from the motel by bike, Senchi Resort (see right) will no to the villages and the pool Akosombo, on road to dam Mognori is a friendly ‘eco-village’ doubt become a popular destination, itself, make it hugely rewarding. (0244 543 635). Rooms GH¢100. offering canoe trips and village but there are options for budget If you’re looking for somewhere to walks – these include encounters travellers too. Adventure tourism is stay close by, the Wli Waterfall Royal Senchi with weavers, local medicine men also becoming popular around the Lodge (289 547 459, bernhard. The Royal Senchi Resort is a bold and the village chief. If requested a Trips Out of Town Volta, with activities such as canoe
[email protected]) comes undertaking; a largely thatched day in advance (via the Park office), trips. The heel of the Lake and the recommended for its views and 84-room complex with facilities for the community will also showcase town of Akosombo are a couple of location. The hospitable owners – a large conferences just west of the their traditional drum and dance hours from Accra, offering a German couple – know a lot about town of Akosombo. Its location by performances. Some families provide multitude of water sports and the region and offer various guided the river gives it a wild tropical feel, basic overnight stays and, during the activities such as bird watching. hiking and cycling tours. It’s also while still being within a 90-minute dry season, accommodation can also From Akosombo ferries can be taken possible to rent mountain bikes for drive from Accra. The four-star hotel be found on top of the mud houses, across the Volta. Longer trips can be independent cycling trips, in which was still a couple of months away directly under the stars. taken on the Yapei Queen that runs capacity Mount Afadjato makes a from being complete when Time Out The main hub from which to reach the length of the Volta twice a week, superb destination. Accra visited in late April, but what Mole National Park is Tamale, a from Akosombo to Yeji in 24 hours The Ghana Wildlife Society we saw was impressive. The rooms calm and amenable town in northern – if you can hack it. (www.ghanawildlifesociety.org) runs are broken into four blocks. The 74 Ghana. Orange Metro Mass buses a small campsite at the base of the standard rooms (called River View leave daily heading for Mole Motel, East of Lake Volta mountain and offers guided climbs rooms, for obvious reasons) were although departure times should be The relaxed town of Hohoe to the top. Rangers explain the local sizable, with a private patio area and checked in advance and tickets constitutes the main transport hub flora and fauna on the way up. At even a view from the bathtub. Ask bought early. Staying overnight in for the area east of Lake Volta – it’s 2900ft (880m) high it’s technically for an upstairs room for the airy Tamale pre-trip is the relaxing Saam also where the Wli Falls are situated Ghana’s highest mountain. high ceilings. The nine suites are Hotel (071 24200). 84 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 to the airport. However, the routes are pretty tricky to understand if you are not used to them. A guy hollers out the destination and route if it is not on a sign. But any other people waiting will be able to help. The main tro tro stops are at Tema Station, Nkrumah Circle and 37 Directory Circle. Locals use hand signals when flagging down a tro tro, such as making a circle with the index finger pointed to the ground for Nkrumah Circle. If you shout ‘Accra’, or point your finger up, drivers should understand that to mean central Tema Station. Taxis Taxis are equally plentiful, and are undoubtedly the best bet for people new to Accra. Most rides will cost around GH¢7-10, but can be between GH¢5 and GH¢15. Some will try it on with GH¢20+ rides which shouldn’t happen for journeys within Accra, but be firm, or just get another taxi. There are plenty – as you will notice from the constant beeping. Getting International airlines Alitalia 0302 775865, African airlines Antrak Air 0307 015300/1, 0307 Most importantly, agree the price beforehand, as drivers don’t use around www.alitalia.com Air France www.airfrance.com British Airways 0302 214 996/7, 025300, www.antrakair.com Ethiopian Airlines 0302 664856/7/8, meters. It’s worth mentioning that some taxis will look more like health hazards than legitimate modes of www.britishairways.com www.ethiopianairlines.com transport. Check for a seat belt. A Arriving and leaving Delta Air Lines 0302 213 111, South African Airways 0302 783 reliable driver we use regularly is www.delta.com 676/7/8, www.flysaa.com Joseph Addo (0246 480676). By air Emirates 0302 213131, Most hotels will have taxi drivers A direct flight from London to Accra www.emirates.com Domestic flights working for them. They is a seven-hour journey. British KLM 0302 214 747, www.klm.com Starbow (0245 000 000, www. often use nice cars (or people Airways runs a daily direct flight Lufthansa 0302 243 893, flystarbow.com) and Fly 540 Africa carriers) with air-conditioning, but from London Heathrow, and Virgin www.lufthansa.com (0202 250 208, www.fly540africa. they are generally more expensive. Atlantic flies from Heathrow five Middle East Airlines, 0302 230 867, com) link Accra, Kumasi, Tamale Like normal taxis, be sure to agree a times a week. KLM and Air France www.mea.com.lb and Takoradi. Antrak Air (0307 price first. If you walk away, they both fly to Accra via Amsterdam, Turkish Airlines, 0302 765 880, 015300/1, 0307 025300, www. will often come back with a lower and other European departures www.turkishairlines.com antrakair.com) serves Accra, price. Companies such as EuroStar include Alitalia, which flies from Virgin Atlantic 0302 215 200, Kumasi, Tamale, Takoradi and Global Limosine (30 Senchi Street, Rome, and Lufthansa from www.virgin-atlantic.com Sunyani. The new carrier, Africa Airport Residential, 0302 736 161, Frankfurt, and most recently World Airline (024 243 8888, www. http://eurostarlimos.com) provide Turkish. In the USA, Delta flies flyafricaworld.com) flies to Kumasi luxury cars for airport pick ups, direct to Accra from New York’s JFK TRAVEL and Tamale. conferences and special occasions. International Airport, and also from Atlanta, Georgia. ADVICE Kotoka International Airport Where to find the Public transport Driving The airport is six miles (10km) north of the city centre. For flight latest official advice Intercity By bus Accra’s roads are chaotic. It seems to buses, known as STC buses function on one huge game of information call 0302 776 171, (State Transportation Corporation), ‘chicken’ and whoever has the wits, For up-to-date information on travel www.ghanaairports.com.gh. are comfortable, run regularly and wins. Saying that, at rush hour to a specific country – including Accra Airport has undergone are safe for tourists. Buses heading (between 6am and 8am in the the latest news on safety and renovations in recent years, but it west and north leave from morning and 4-7pm in the security, health issues, local laws can still be a bit of a headache, Obetsebi-Lamptey Circle station, afternoon), traffic grinds to a halt in and customs – contact your home with keen porters trying to get while Tudu station at the north end most areas downtown. government’s department of your custom and taxi drivers of Makola Market serves those Cars can still be hired, should you foreign affairs. Most of them have descending upon blatant tourists going east. These buses usually have want to brave the roads. All the websites packed with useful like ants to a picnic. If you get stops within the city centre, so it is regular suspects are here and most advice for would-be travellers. hassled, say ‘no thank you’ possible to take them to get around. have an office in the airport, and assertively. Immigration is fairly Australia agents around the city. All major quick on the way in and you will www.smartraveller.gov.au By tro tro hotels will have an agent too. All be given a 60-day visitor’s stamp, New Zealand Accra city centre is a hectic one. hotels will also be able to recommend providing you have arranged a visa www.safetravel.govt.nz Perilous for pedestrians, one way to a trusted driver who will drive you in your home country before UK get around is to hop on a tro tro, a around for the day or length of your departure. They have started www.fco.gov.uk/travel shared mini van with a set route. stay. Expect to pay around GH¢15-20 checking Yellow Fever Certificates Canada Useful routes for travellers are an hour. Ghana is a left-hand drive before immigration, so be sure to www.voyage.gc.ca Circle to Osu via Ring Road; Circle country and a current international have it in order. Queues can be Republic of Ireland to the central post office via driving licence is required. Drivers huge leaving the country going http://foreign affairs.gov.ie Nkrumah Ave; Tudu station to bringing vehicles into Ghana require through security, so go with plenty USA Kokomlemle; 37 Circle to Osu; a ‘carnet de passage’ and of time. http://travel.state.gov Makola Market to Osu; and Circle international insurance. Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 85 Avis usembassy.state.gov). Open Lost/stolen credit cards 199 Soula Loop, Labone, Accra 0302 761 752, www.avisghana.com 7.30am-5pm Mon-Thur; 7.30am- noon Fri. Money Use your credit card as little as possible, as credit card fraud is a Telephones GHANA ONLINE Health Europcar Australian High Commission The Ghanaian currency is the cedi growing problem in Ghana, although Making calls in Ghana is not Useful web links For assistance in finding a private 12th floor, Heritage Tower, West 2, Second Rangoon Close, and is marked with a GH¢ sign. One it’s not at Nigerian levels yet. complicated; every block has a call doctor or dentist, contact your Ridge, 0302 665 544, Cantonments (0302 216 400, www. cedi is divided into 100 pesewas. The Additionally, many hotels and centre where you can call home at embassy for specific enquiries. www.europcar.com ghana.embassy.gov.au). Open latest cedi was introduced on July 3 restaurants don’t accept cards for affordable rates. Most cities have www.noworriesghana.com sports, entertainment and Pharmacies are easy to come by 8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri. 2007 and is equal to 10,000 old cedi. payment. For lost or stolen credit numerous phone booths as well. A comprehensive guide to retail business. Mostly national news, and are also found within British High Commission The denominations for notes are 1, 2, cards call these numbers: Phone cards are easy to get your and services in Ghana and advice. but with some international supermarkets. Here are friendly Walking Osu Link, Abdul Gamel Nasser 5, 10, 20 and 50. For coins it is 1, 5, Visa 410 581 9994 or hands on, sold in kiosks and stores www.accraexpat.com stories. hospitals and medical clinics, and Avenue (0302 221 665, www. 10, 20, 50 pesewa and 1 cedi. As of 410 581 3836 throughout cities. The most reliable A successful site linking Accra’s twitter.com/GhanaMusic ones that are used by expats. For Accra isn’t a particularly friendly ukinghana.fco.gov.uk/en). Open June 2013 GBP£1 = GH¢3.04 and MasterCard 636 722 7111 cards are those from the main large expat community. Up-to-date Ever improving tweets from the opticians, see Shopping, pp49-58. city to wander around on foot. There 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Thur; US$1 = GH¢2. It’s an exchange rate American Express 336 393 1111 telephone companies, MTN (www. listings and events. excellent Ghana Music website are the immediate hazards such as 7.30am-1pm Fri. that has remained remarkably stable Discover 801 902 3100 mtn.com.gh), Vodafone (www. www.ghanatourism.gov.gh (www.ghanamusic.com). 37 Military Hospital open drainage and pot holes that Canadian High Commission over the last few of years. Changing vodafone.com.gh), Tigo (www.tigo. A useful site with general tourism Best for keeping up with the Liberation Road near Akuafo Circle seem to descend in to the centre of 42 Independence Avenue (0302 211 on the black market isn’t worthwhile. Bureau d’Change com.gh) and Expresso (www. information. latest Hiplife. and 37 Station (0302 776 111). the earth. Looking down at your feet 521, www.canadainternational.gc.ca). Accra has plenty of ATMs, but it Chase Bureau De Change expressoghana.net). For mobile www.touringghana.com twitter.com/MensaMusic Akai House Clinic is important here. There’s also a lack Open 7.30am-4pm Mon-Thur; is always best to take out money Opp. UNDP Office, Danquah Circle, users, before you go, check with your The official Ghana Tourism Site is M3nsa’s entertaining Twitter Number 1, 6th Circular Road, of pavements. 7.30am-1pm Fri. from an ATM machine within a Osu (0302 772 962). provider what the rates are. a glitzy introduction to Ghana from charting the recording and Cantonments (0302 784 772/3/4). French Embassy and Consulate bank for security reasons. Barclays the Ghana Tourist Board. It’s promotion roundabout of one of Beaver Dental Clinic Resources 12th Road, off Liberation avenue Bank, Standard Chartered Bank, Forbes Forex Bureau Dialing codes most useful for a list of tour Ghana’s most promising hiplife 7 Roman Road, Roman Ridge (0302 (0302 214 550, www.ambafrance-gh. Ecobank, SG-SSB, CAL Bank and 3rd Lane, Off Oxford Street, Osu The dialing codes across Ghana operators that are registered with stars. 771 785). org). Open 8.30am-noon Mon-Thur. Ghana Commercial Bank all have (0302 781 706). changed on May 1, 2010. But expect the Ghana Tourist Board. twitter.com/talkaboutghana Bernswett Pharmacy German Embassy and ATMs. Usually only local currency to see some of the older codes on www.ghanaweb.com A forum for Ghanaians to get Labone (behind Morning Star), Addresses Consulate will be dispensed from these Qwick Bureau d’Change websites and business materials. Ghana Web provides an together to discuss the future of Carpet House (Nkrumah Circle). 6 Ridge Street, North Ridge machines. It is a good idea to check Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), The dialling code used to be 021, invaluable resource for all sorts of the country. Ernst Chemist Addresses. Tricky one. As you will (0302 211 000, www.accra.diplo.de). with your home bank before you go, opp Barclays (024 405 3705, 024 however it is now 0302. It is then news and information about twitter.com/GhanaNewsFeed Ring Road Central, near have probably noticed in this guide Open 7am-4pm Mon-Thur; as to which Ghanaian banks they 394 2197). followed by a six-digit number. Ghana. Another good regularly updated Sankara Overpass, Adabraka that addresses are difficult to define. 7am-1pm Fri. recommend because affiliated banks Trustworthy office on Oxford Street, Many businesses may not have a twitter.com/modernghanaweb news feed with a mixture of (0302 257140). Relationships to landmarks (some will have lower service fees. Taking with rates likely to be better than landline and use a mobile. The most prolific tweeter in politics, culture and sport, as well Medlab unlikely) are the usual way of money out in Ghana can set off you’ll find in a hotel. It is upstairs in These are the numbers that usually Ghana, Modern Ghana Web is an as links to some interesting 17 Ridge Road, Opposite Roman identifying locations. In this guide Internet alarms in banks and lead to your a building opposite Barclay’s Bank. begin with 024, as well as 020, 027 excellent source of news, whether ecological pieces. Ridge School, Roman Ridge (0302 we have made use of these card being suspended until you call There are signs outside and at the and 028. The international code 769 680). landmarks – this is what your taxi Ghana is the best connected country them. You can let them know before top of the stairs. is +233. North Ridge Clinic driver will use. in Africa. There is an abundance of you go. Only change/withdraw the States can get visa information here: Off Ring Road, next to Sedco House internet cafés in Accra and they are amount you need for a few days. Gold Star Forex Bureau Mobile phones Time www.ghanaembassy.org. (0302 227328). cheap and usually fairly fast. All Other options for changing money is Kokomlemle (030 2227409). Most visitors buy a SIM card if the Visitor visas for Ghana are valid Nyaho Clinic Age restrictions hotels will have a computer to use, at the bureau d’change – often mobile is unlocked from its home The time in Ghana is the same as for three months, although visas for 35 Aviation Road, Airport although the wireless network in signposted as Forex. A couple are Yasole Forex Bureau network. Vodafone and MTN is one GMT, except during UK summer up to 12 months are granted in Residential Area (0302 775 341). Buying/drinking alcohol 18; driving many leave a lot to be desired. listed below. Accra Mall ,Tetteh Quarshie (www. of the most popular and SIM cards time (GMT-1). certain circumstances; visitors Life Health Care Medical and 18; sex 16; smoking 18. accramall.com). Open 9am-7.30pm can be picked up for GH¢1 from coming to Ghana on business need Dental Centre Mon-Sat; 10pm-7pm Sun. street vendors or one of the very to present a letter of invitation on Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie (0302 LONG STAY A popular bureau d’change in many mobile phone outlets. Tourist information application. Visas for Ghana 823 064, lifehealthcare.com.gh). Customs Accra Mall. Vodafone and MTN are the most typically take at least seven Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Visitors to Ghana can bring in the Spending a bit more time in Accra popular ones. Tourist information centres in Ghana, on the whole, are very working days to be processed, although there is a rapid processing Sun. Credit V. following without paying import Postal services Calling home welcoming and helpful – if you can service available. Those from duties: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or Developers 600-acre luxury development To call home, dial 00 followed by find them. They are few and far countries that do not have a Police stations one pound of tobacco, 250ml of Dream Realty based on the principles of a Your post will have a better chance your country code and then the between and tend to close down and Ghanaian consulate can be issued spirits or wine and 250ml of perfume. This real estate development garden city located in East of getting to its destination if sent number. If there is a zero at the start move frequently. The most accessible visas in Ghana providing they Ghana Police Service, Those wishing to export handicrafts company is the company behind Legon, just off the Accra-Tema from Accra, particularly at the of the home number, omit it when is a desk in the Kotoka International have previously informed the Headquarters and antiques not exempt from duties the Octagon being built in central motorway. As well as a airport. In Accra, the Central Post dialling. For example to the UK: 00 + Airport where you can get help with Director of Immigration. The costs On Ring Road east of Ako, Adjei must obtain a certificate from the Accra next to the City Hall. It will residential area, it will include Office is located on the High Street country code (44) + area code minus accommodation and other general as of June 1, 2013 are £50 for a Junction (0302 228 112). Museums and Monuments Board; house shops, a hotel and offices. shops, restaurants and on the Lutterodt intersection in initial zero (1234) + number (123 information. Usually the best bet is single entry three-month visa, £70 Information line 0302 761 250 these are available from the main It is also building the Riviera educational facilities. Trassaco Usher Town. Office hours are 456). Calls to the USA: 00 + country the hotel concierge. for a multiple entry six-month visa. Accra Central craft centre or the National Museum. complex, two 17-storey buildings also developed the Villaggio 8am-5pm Monday to Friday and code (1) + area code (416) + number Add another £20 for a 72-hour Opposite NIB Headquarters Banned imports into Ghana include of apartments and a hotel. Of real Primavera near Accra Mall and 9am-2pm on Saturday. (555 1234). Accra Visitors Centre service and more for a 24-hour 0302 662 290 animals, firearms and ammunition, interest is its development of Fort the Villagio Vista, a remarkable Ring Road Central, opposite turn around. Airport Police 0302 777 592 and explosives. St Jago in Elmina. looking complex. DHL Kokomlemle Junction. Open NOTE: There is a new law in place Greater Accra 0302 664 612 PO Box AD330, Adabraka PO Box 117, Accra (030 701 (Ridge Crescent, behind KLM Tipping 9am-5pm Mon-Fri. that requires all permanent resident (0302 815299, 2332, www.trasaccovalley.com). 0302 213 090, www.dhl.com.gh) foreign nationals to have a national Disabled www.dreamrealty.com.gh). Agents North FedEx It’s not too common to tip in bars Ghana Tourist Board identity card issued by the National Logistics Headquarters, Mango Tree Street and smaller eating establishments Nsawam Road, Tesano, near the Identification Authority. Check the The city is not well equipped for ELM Developments Domani Properties Asylum Down (0302 257 921, www. such as chop bars. In restaurants police station. Open 9am-5pm official immigration website (www. Bollore SDV disabled tourists. If you are not This company focuses on real This successful real estate fedex.com/gh). and where there is table service, a Mon-Fri. ghanaembassy.org) for details. It Commercial Warehouse Area, mobile, the only way to get around estate, initially residential, but agency has more than 15 years TNT tip of between five and ten per cent costs $120 and at the moment can be PO Box 51, Tema (022 218 500). Accra is by private charter taxi. recently commercial and retail. A experience in Accra and remains 5 Agbaamo Link, Airport (0302 953 is common. In restaurants a ten per bought from local banks. This also Maersk Shipping However, if you hire a driver for the key development is being planned family run. They work with 531, www.tnt.com) cent service charge is often added to Visas includes refugees – a move that has Obourwe Building, Torman day, it is likely he will offer to drive around the Kwame Nkrumah embassies, organisations and the bill. It’s not necessary to tip taxi caused some criticism. Road, Fishing Harbour Area, you for your entire stay. Negotiate a Circle, it is also developing luxury companies helping people to buy, drivers. It’s a little more complicated Visitors from the UK, USA, Europe, PO Box 8800, Community 7 Services price and by the end of your trip you will have made a good friend. serviced apartments. The Palladio and Charlotte’s Place – both residential developments are sell, let or invest in property. 221 Christman House (020 202 7467/0302 768 934, Correct Plumbing with guides out of town. It’s common to have a tour around Elmina and Cape Coast forts for Australia and Canada need a visa to enter Ghana. UK citizens can now book the visa online (www. Emergencies (022 218 700). Maritime Business Solutions already built. www.domaniproperties.com). (027 868 2232, 054 144 7158, example, however in our experince ghanahighcommissionuk.com), All available 24 hours Suite 17, Crystal Plaza, next to Embassies and Directory Directory No. 8, Dr. Amilcar Cabral Road, www.correctplumbinggh.com). in the more organised Cape Coast bypassing half of the tortuous Evergreen Supermarket, Community Airport Residential Area (021 H Wagner A reputable Accra -based plumbing the tour was included in the process of having to go to the Fire 192 4, Tema (022 205 153/024 610 consulates 770061-3, www.elmdevt.com). Leading real estate agents with a and engineering company. Services admission price, but in Elmina the consular section of the High 5050). wide portfolio across Accra. include maintenance, emergency guide demanded a tip of GH¢10. It Commission on Highgate Hill, Medical emergencies OT Africa Line American Embassy Trassaco North Labone Avenue, PO Box work, piping, heating, ventilation for is always best to insist on London N6 5HE (0208 3427500). 193 to call an ambulance 52 Charlotte Street, Birmingham, No 24, Fourth Circular Road, Trassaco are the developers 3090 (0302 774 228/0208 504 commercial, industrial and organising the money and There are also offices in Glasgow United Kingdom (0121 236 5046, Cantonments (0302 741 150, www. behind Trassaco Valley, a 630,
[email protected]). residential premises in Ghana. even tips beforehand. and Dublin. Residents of the United Police 191 www.otal.com). 86 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 87 Map 88 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014