2014

SHAHI EXPORTS LTD.SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT [Type the document subtitle] Submitted by- SONAL CHAWLA 8/4/2014 2 ACKNOWLDGEMENT I would like to thank Mr. ARNAB BANERJEE, Course Coordinator, MFM Department, and our faculty mentor Mr. S.D BUHROY , Department of Fashion management for their guidance and motivation throughout the duration of this internship. This work is not a sole endeavor but rather an integrated effort of many individuals directed towards the same goal. I feel very much proud at underlining the magnanimous qualities of Mr. Raman Bhutani, Assistant Production Manager, Shahi Exports, Faridabad for showing affection, enthusing zeal, germinating interest and inspiring hard work. I would like to extend my gratitude to Mr. Sunil Jasso, GM Production, Mr.Pardeep Singh, IE Manager, Mr. Ankur Joshi, Cutting Manager and all the employees of Shahi Exports for showing great concern & interest in my work and guided me throughout the internship. They have been a constant source of inspiration to us throughout the duration of the internship, constantly monitoring the work at close quarters and throwing light on minute technicalities. It would be appropriate to say that this work would not have seen the light of the day, but for their painstaking and unstinted cooperation. SONAL CHAWLA 3 Company Overview 4 ABOUT SHAHI EXPORTS SHAHI Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in the manufacture and export of readymade garments in the International market. It is No 1 .Export house of India having an annual turnover of 450 million USD. The Group is into manufacturing of a wide range of Men’s, Ladies wear, Kidswear and also in Home products. SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with state-of-the-art technology giving the best to its buyers. It caters to a versatile client base of US & European market like Walmart, Target, KOHL’S, A&F, Hugo Boss, FCUK, H&M, Liz Claiborne, GAP, CK, Espirit, Zara etc. SHAHI Group’s commitment to quality can meet global quality standards. Its ranking given by J.C.Penney, the world-renowned departmental stores, is one of the best in Asia. 5 INTRODUCTION SHAHI Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in the manufacture and export of readymade garments in the International market. It is one of the largest export houses in India. The company started its operations in the form of a small fabrication unit with the help of 25 machines. The company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple fabrication unit to present turnover of Rs. 2200 crore, around 55000 employees and spread over 27 locations. It has manufacturing units in six different states of India viz. Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. The group is into manufacturing of a wide range of Men’s and Ladies wear and also home products. SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with state-of-the-art technology giving the best to its buyers. Its manufacturing facilities includes Assembly line machines, Prima Vision system print/fabric development, Meyer fusing press, Barudan and Tajima, Multi head computerized embroidery machine, in house washing plant, automatic cutting machines (F.K. Systems). SHAHI has a well-equipped sampling division where latest patterns/designs/styles of high standards are developed with the assistance of experienced designers. It has a training center for tailors at Faridabad and Bangalore each to train and develop them into vital human resource for efficient operations. As regards to quality, SHAHI has been ranked one of the best in Asia by J.C.Penny, the world-renowned departmental stores. 6 COMPANY PROFILE  Name: Shahi Exports Private Limited  Established: 1974  Owner: Mrs. Sarla Ahuja  Managing Director: Mr. Harish Ahuja  Address: Industrial Plot-1, Sector 28 Faridabad, Haryana  Work Force: More than 30,000  Capacity: Over 2 million high quality garments per month  Retail House: At Last & Co. , New York  Fabric Processing: Sarla Fabrics, Ghaziabad  Annual Turnover: INR 2200 crore (Group Turnover) 7 PRODUCT PROFILE: The following are based and operated in NCR 1. LSD – Ladies Speciality Division 2. LBAD – Ladies branded Apparel Division 3. LFD – Ladies Fashion Division (basically caters to Wal-Mart) 4. HFD – Home Furnishing Division MAJOR BUYERS  Tommy Hilfigher  Armani  Hugo Boss  Liz Claiborn  Abercrombie & Fitch (A & F)  J.C. Penny  Kohls  Gap  Target  Wal-mart  Calvin Klein  Espirit  Hennes & Mauritz (H & M)  Nautica COMPANY HIERARCHY 9 DEPARTMENTS- MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the quality of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyers. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT  To look for the appropriate market  To get the samples made according to the buyer’s specification  To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with them  Getting orders  Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval  To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production  Co-ordinating with the PPC and production OBJECTIVE OF MERCHANDISER  To create market  Understanding buyers’ requirements  Sourcing of materials, fabrics  Select the range  Creating the product  Taking buyers approvals  Negotiation with buyer  Procuring the orders  Materializing the order 10  Execution the order  Coordination between production and production planning department  Dispatching the shipment. After shipment dispatching merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claims, profit and subsequent orders. If buyer has any problem in quality of the product then it is the responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer. MERCHASNDISER FABRIC DEPTT. Q.A. DEPTT. ACCESSORIES DEPTT. MERCHANDISING DEPTT. INDUST-RIAL ENGG. DEPTT PRODCTI-ON DEPTT. ORDER ANALYSIS DEPTT. SPREADING DEPTT CUTTIN-G DEPTT FINISHIN-G DEPTT. SHIPPING DEPTT. 11 HIERARCHY PROFIT CENTER HEAD, MARKETING DIVISIONAL MARKETING MANAGER MARKETING MANAGER SENIOR MERCHANT MERCHANT JUNIOR MERCHANT CO-ORDINATOR 12 PROCESS OF MERCHANDISING:  The first stage of merchandising is when buyer sends either spec, sketch or any garment pieces and asks for sample with costing or only costing using different fabrics. The specs sent by the buyer are also called Tech Packs.  The merchandiser gets the approval of all things like fabric, trims, label, costing etc. and either buyer gives the approval or gives the vendors’ name. -The allocation chart and FTP directory is received by the merchant from the buyer online. -The fabric CAD is also received from the buyer which has all the details of the pantone shade and the repeat size. -The prints are developed from their own mill, SFL (Sarla Fabric Limited) or are subcontracted. -A CD is developed which has the color picture of the fabric. This is sent to the fabric department for development. -Sample piece is developed.  Next, costing is done on the basis of the spec, sketch and garment which are sent by the buyer for making the sample. Merchandiser does the average costing/consumption of the garment. The quotation is sent to the buyer/buying house and the approval is awaited. One thing is to be noted that while giving the consumption, the cut-able width of the fabric to be received (either mill made-developed in India or imported fabric) has to be considered while costing. Also the marker utilization depends on the style, which may affect the consumption greatly. The fabric characteristic also matters vis-à-vis nap etc.  The merchandiser monitors the design from sampling to production and then final dispatch. They are a link between the buyer and the company. All correspondence that the buyer wants to do regarding his style will be done through the merchandiser. Merchandiser monitors the total sampling from development to the time the production sample is made and goods go into actual production.  They also see that the fabric is developed on time and send it for approval to the buyer and subsequently if all samples are made on time, send them to the buyer for approval too. They are also in constant touch with production to know the status of their styles. 13 Merchandising activities include: 1. To get order: Buyer directly communicates with the merchandiser in order to place the order. Fixed buyers are allotted to merchandisers and the communication is between the buyer an that particular merchant. 2. Costing: Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality of material and their requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of the merchandiser. To arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are taken into consideration: Costing is done considering these aspects of the cost. PROCESS OF MERCHANDISING:  The first stage of merchandising is when buyer sends either spec, sketch or any garment pieces and asks for sample with costing or only costing using different fabrics. The specs sent by the buyer are also called Tech Packs.  The merchandiser gets the approval of all things like fabric, trims, label, costing etc. and either buyer gives the approval or gives the vendors’ name. -The allocation chart and FTP directory is received by the merchant from the buyer online. -The fabric CAD is also received from the buyer which has all the details of the pantone shade and the repeat size. -The prints are developed from their own mill, SFL (Sarla Fabric Limited) or are subcontracted. -A CD is developed which has the color picture of the fabric. This is sent to the fabric department for development. COST FIXED COST VARIABLE COST 14 -Sample piece is developed.  Next, costing is done on the basis of the spec, sketch and garment which are sent by the buyer for making the sample. Merchandiser does the average costing/consumption of the garment. The quotation is sent to the buyer/buying house and the approval is awaited. One thing is to be noted that while giving the consumption, the cut-able width of the fabric to be received (either mill made-developed in India or imported fabric) has to be considered while costing. Also the marker utilization depends on the style, which may affect the consumption greatly. The fabric characteristic also matters vis-à-vis nap etc.  The merchandiser monitors the design from sampling to production and then final dispatch. They are a link between the buyer and the company. All correspondence that the buyer wants to do regarding his style will be done through the merchandiser. Merchandiser monitors the total sampling from development to the time the production sample is made and goods go into actual production.  They also see that the fabric is developed on time and send it for approval to the buyer and subsequently if all samples are made on time, send them to the buyer for approval too. They are also in constant touch with production to know the status of their styles. Merchandising activities include: 3. To get order: Buyer directly communicates with the merchandiser in order to place the order. Fixed buyers are allotted to merchandisers and the communication is between the buyer an that particular merchant. 4. Costing: Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality of material and their requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of the merchandiser. To arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are taken into consideration: Costing is done considering these aspects of the cost. 15 WORFLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT Buyer’s enquiry / Tech-pack Costing Style finalization Purchase Order received Fit approval process 1 st fit Fabric/Material approval 2 nd fit Fabric/Material order Pre production sample Fabric/Material follow-up Size set Fabric/Material in-house Production Follow-up Regular tracking and updating buyer Order shipping 16 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT Sampling department is the most vital department of the organization. It is the department that develops the samples thus enabling the Product Development. This department prepares samples on the basis of the requirements of the buyer. The sampling department here caters to the need of all the other units of Shahi as it was centralized. Sampling was self sufficient as it had its own stitching. washing, trimming, spotting, and ironing etc dedicated for the construction of samples only. The fabric and trims are sourced from the in house warehouse depending upon the availability. The fabric which is sourced for the sampling purpose is called yardage and is 25-30mts in length. SAMPLING PROCESS: The process of sampling goes through a series of sampling stages each of them are explained below: 1. PROTO SAMPLE: It is the reflection of the first techpack received from the buyer. The sample is sent to the buyer for the design approval. Proto sample is made in the base size. Styling is important. The comments and second tech pack is sent back referring changes in the sample. 2. FIT SAMPLE: The comments are received regarding the shape, size and fullness. The sample is checked for fit on body forms. It is made in exact fabric, though print maybe different, since the drape and fit are to be checked. 3. SECOND FIT SAMPLE: It is similar to the first fit sample made with a few changes according to comments received from the buyer. Again a third or fourth fit sample may be required to be made. After approval of fit sample, order is confirmed along with all the specifications. 4. PRE-PRODUCTION/SEALER SAMPLE: This sample is known as the bible of production. It is done for the base size of any one color and actual fabric and actual trims are used. 5. SIZE-SET SAMPLE: The sample is made in actual fabric and trims in all sizes and is sent to the buyer for approval. 17 6. GPT SAMPLE: These samples are made for garment testing for seam-slippage, tearing strength, button pulling etc. it is the garment pack sample. 7. TOP (TOP OF PRODUCTION) SAMPLE: It is the best sample from first of bulk production. 8. SALESMAN SAMPLE: It is made for the buyer to find out the opinion of the store owners whether the style would sell in the market or not, and the demand of that product. 18 ORDER ANALYSIS DEPARTMENT The Order Analysis Department (OAD) acts as the bridge between the merchandising and the production functions of the unit. This department gives technical support to the production team. They do a complete analysis of the style from all possible perspectives. A research or analysis plays an important role before manufacturing any product. The role of this department starts when the all the fit and sealer samples for the style have been approved and the order is ready for bulk production. OAD receives two complete files containing all the details and documents from the concerned merchant. Once the files are received by the department, they are checked for the following details:  Purchase Order (PO) – contains order quantity, colour and size ratio, destination, delivery date etc  Product Style Details (PSD) – contains details about the fabric (count, construction, colour), thread, labels, accessories, buttons, fusing etc.  Final mini marker (for interlinings as well if applicable)  Tech Pack (updated) – containing garment measurements with all the fit comments by the buyer.  Sealed sample (buyer approved)  Embroidery design – with the placement and type of thread to be used  Swatches of fabric, fusing, threads etc  Operational breakdown of the style  Thread consumption report  Base patterns  Washing, ironing and packing instructions The department checks if all the documents are present in the files and are complete. Once this is established, one file is sent to the Industrial Engineering Department and the other is kept in OAD and worked upon. 19 FUNCTIONS The following functions are carried out by the Order Analysis Department:  All the base patterns and the sealer sample are checked and the measurements are matched with the specifications given by the buyer. It is also checked whether all the latest comments related to the fit of the garment have been incorporated and the necessary alterations are made to the patterns with the involvement of the merchant.  Size set patterns are developed according to the final corrected patterns. Size set samples (two per size) are checked by OAD for measurements and construction.  OAD analyzes the fabric and what it demands while being used in manufacturing. The impact of dyeing, processing and finishing on the fabric is considered, its shrinkage along warp and weft is determined. Also it is determined if any special test should be done on the fabric.  Complete analysis of the trims is carried out. Their compatibility with each other and more importantly with the fabric is checked through tests.  A thorough study of seams and stitches of the sample is done. This helps in maintaining the quality of the garment and in reduction of unwanted operations.  OAD determines the spreading and cutting details like mode of spreading, grain on which patterns are to be cut etc  All the stitching details like the different stitches and seams to be used, SPI to be used are determined.  Based on the size set development, all the critical quality points and instructions to the operator and checkers are determined. Style Analysis Report OAD prepares a report called the Style Analysis Report based on the studies carried out by them. This is a 3-4 page report containing all the details which would be required by the subsequent departments in a concise form so that they can be retrieved quickly and easily by anyone. This report consists of details about the fabric, trims, spreading and cutting instructions, construction details such as stitches and seams along with all seam diagrams, washing, ironing and packing instructions and critical instructions to the sewing operators and quality checkers. 20 COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARTMENT This department is centralized for all the NCR units of Shahi. Based on the nature of work, this department is divided into four sections: SECTIONS  Embroidery section: It makes the punch cards according to the design of embroidery. This punch card is fed into a floppy which is inserted into the embroidery machine for it to understand the design. In the remaining three sections, the software being used is OPTITEX  Pattern making section: Making the patterns using specification sheets and then checking their fit on virtual dummies.  Grading section: Generally medium size patterns are developed and they are graded up to the required number of sizes up and down.  Marker making section: Markers are made keeping in mind the following factors:  Mode of spreading  Width of the fabric available  Matching if required  Shrinkage along warp and weft  Size ratio required The marker made is first taken out on the printer (miniature version markers). The full size markers are printed through on the plotter. The computer aided design department is also responsible for making mini for merchandiser for estimating the costing average. The usual marker efficiency achieved is 75%-85% 21 Machinery details  Number of computer systems = 12  One digitizing screen for transferring manually made patterns into the system  One digital printing machine for printing prints on fabric for sampling purposes Workforce  20 pattern masters  4 graders  2 digitizers  10 marker makers  6 staff members 22 FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT Sourcing of the fabric is the responsibility of this department. They source fabric for sampling as well, except for Target and Walmart which have a separate sampling sourcing division. Unlike in other industries, this department is segregated according to the areas from which the fabric is purchased rather than being segregated buyer wise. DIVISIONS  CENTRAL SOURCING DIVISION: It is responsible for sourcing of greige fabric like cambric, voile, poplin etc.  PROCESSING DIVISION: It is responsible for getting the greige fabric processed. It works in coordination with the central sourcing division.  SALEM DIVISION: It is responsible for sourcing of yarn dyed fabrics. The checking of yarn dyed fabrics is done at Salem only by an office of Shahi set up there before it is dispatched.  IMPORTS AND MILL MADE DIVISION: It is responsible for sourcing of imported and mill made fabric (from Surat). Only finished fabric is imported. 90% of the fabric imported is from China and 5% each from Korea and Pakistan. About 20-25% of the total fabric is imported and for 60-70% of outhouse production, imported fabric is used. Outhouse production facilities are available at Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Fabrics that are imported include:  Stretch fabrics  Linen and its blends  Silk and its blends  Bottom weight fabrics  Cotton, poly-spandex  Fine quality polyester etc. Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and processing unit in Ghaziabad by the name of Sarla Fabric Limited (earlier known by the name of Palm Prints). It is a vertically integrated unit with facilities of weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing. Approximately 40000 meter fabric is procured from here. However there are certain constraints:  Limited capacity.  Limitation on the colors and prints that Sarla Fabrics can do.  Fabrics like georgette etc. cannot be processed here as they do not have jet dyeing machines. 23 Sometimes, greige fabric is purchased and then it is processed at Sarla Fabrics. Shahi is renowned for making all shipments on time. One of the significant reasons for this is that it has its own fabric unit where it can prioritize its work according to the need. Most of the exporters face this problem of receiving the fabric late and hence facing delayed shipments. Other sources  Automatic and power looms  Salem  Coimbatore  Erode  Mill made fabric  Vardhman  Arvind  Nahar  Shyam Tex  Ashima SUPPLIERS The main markets for fabric supply for Shahi are Delhi, Panipat, Amritsar, Salem, Mumbai. Some of the fabric suppliers of Shahi ( for both sampling & Production) are: SARLA FABRICS LIMITED OTHERS 24  Muthu Corp, Erode  Picanova fabrics pvt ltd, Mumbai  New Diamond Woollen mills, Amritsar  Mafatlal Industries Ltd, Nadia  Ramkumar Mills Pvt Ltd, Bangalore  Netflex India Pvt Ltd, Mumbai  Priyanka Fabrics, Salem  Bhuvana Fabrics, Erode  Vincord Textiles, Delhi  Vijai Fabric Connection, Erode  L.K Woollen & Silk Mills, Amritsar  A.P Khanna & Sons Pvt Ltd, New Delhi  Himgiri Textiles, Faridabad  Rajindra Handloom Pvt Ltd, Panipat  Shiv Shakti Furnishing Pvt Ltd  KCS Fabrics Pvt Ltd (handloom, jacquard upholstery & curtains)  Maurya’s, Delhi  Parkash textile Mills, New Delhi  Charu Enterprises, New Delhi  R.G Jindal & sons pvt Ltd. The thread suppliers are:  Coats  Vardhaman  Pashupati  Oswal Shahi has an in-house testing lab for measuring GSM, color fastness, rubbing fastness, Dimensional Stability, stretchability and testing others properties of fabrics For labdips, strikeoffs and other approvals, fabrics are sent to testing laboratories like: 25  MTL  ITS-International Testing service PROCESS FLOW FOR ORDERING OF FABRIC Development - Buyer specifies fabric quality and specifications - Requirements of designers Quality selected Approval of quality (count, construction, look, hand feel) through lab dips, strike offs and desk looms Fabric ordered 26 PURCHASE & LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT The Purchase & Logistics Department is responsible for the sourcing of all the accessories required by the company. This ranges from trims that go into the making of a garment to items required for the general functioning of the unit. Divisions  Purchase: responsible for sourcing of the following accessories from domestic markets: – Cartons – Carton tapes – Stationary – Chemicals – Fusing – Elastics – Thread – Labels (domestic) – Other daily requirement items  Logistics: responsible for the sourcing of the following: – Buttons (both domestic and imported) – Laces – Tapes – Sequins, beads etc from local markets – Polybags – All imported trims (hangers, labels, zippers etc) 27 WORKFLOW OF THE PURCHASE AND LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT: Requirements sent by merchandiser Requisition sent by the system Items counter sourced, options submitted with prices Items are approved by the merchandiser or by the buyer Once the order is confirmed, options are chosen buyer Sourcing buyer Quality, price and lead time play an important role in sourcing buyer 28 TESTING LABORATORY DEPARTMENT Shahi has an in house testing laboratory where the following equipments are available for the testing to be carried out: Paramount Digi strength Purpose: Finding the tensile strength of fabric. Also it is used for testing seam strength and seam slippage. Suitable for: Wovens only (Minimum sample size = 6” X 4”) 29 ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING The enterprise resource planning software used in Shahi Exports Private Limited is Movex. Earlier Shahi used oracle based ERP software system to update and circulate the information. Now seeing the increasing demand for quick management of information and data Shahi updated itself with the JAVA based application MOVEX. APPLICATION OF MOVEX  Resource and material planning: combines traditional resource planning solution for scope , terminology and theoretical benefits with innovative organizational solutions.  Product data management: stores and reuses information needed by various administrative processes in manufacturing and distribution companies.  Project management: improves the project management in terms of dates, plan and different other industries.  Financial control: handles all aspects of the controlling requirements so that one can analyze, plan and display detailed management views of key business processes.  Manufacturing: combines flexibility and deep functionality with an ability to support a wide range of different manufacturing environments and strategies.  Maintenance: provides an advanced maintenance application with extensive functionality designed to support wide ranging business needs.  Financial management: is a flexible, internet enabled system that handles all aspects of financial management and enables you to utilize the crucial information that drives today’s business decisions. BENEFITS OF MOVEX  It manages machines and financial assets for current and future business efficiencies.  Movex ERP contains a number of powerful tools for managing enterprise resources such as human skill, machinery and equipment, financial status etc. It includes dynamic solution for integrating global multi unit organizations using different currencies, languages, business principles and legal aspects.  Movex is seamlessly integrated with Movex Customer Relationship Management and Movex Supply Chain Planning & Execution and thereby provides the ability to boost revenues through increased timely sales and an efficient supply chain. In addition Movex provides an online way of controlling financial situations which is a must in the economy prevailing. 30  Movex provides with a foundation to efficiently manage and control internal resources and finances, thus allowing focusing on maximizing revenues and customer satisfaction. For instance Movex Maintenance manages machinery and equipment assets to ensure that proactive maintenance is carried out, which minimizes downtime cost and low product quality.  Another application, Financial Controlling and Management, enables to plan and follow up on financial resources to support future business growth or change. Product Data Management enables to share valuable information about products in processes such as sales, manufacturing and planning. 250 kg UBIQUE Bursting strength tester Purpose: Finding the tensile strength of fabric Suitable for: Knits only Capacity: 250 kg FB push-pull scale Purpose: It is a pull strength tester for determining the pulling strength of trims attached to the garment Suitable for: Trims like buttons, hooks, loops, snaps etc. Different types of grippers are available for different purposes. For example: The buttons must be able to withstand the recommended strength of pull for about 10 seconds which is 15 pounds for garments meant for adults and 17 pounds for kids wear. Paramount tearing strength tester (as per ASTM D1424) Purpose: It is used for determining the strength a fabric can withstand before tearing after an initial cut has been introduced Paramount Crockmeter Purpose: It is used for determining the rubbing fastness of fabric. Process: Bleached white fabric is mounted on the machine which is rubbed against the darkest area of fabric for about ten cycles and the staining on the white fabric is measure with the help of grayscale. Digital Balance 31 Purpose: It is used to measure small amount of weights with precision for eg: yarn count, gsm etc. It has a sensitivity of 0.0001g. GSM sample cutter – Paramount Purpose: It is used to cut a fabric sample with a fixed diameter i.e. 11.56 cm which is used for measuring the gsm of the fabric. The sample cut (represents 0.01 metre square) is weighed on the digital balance and the reading observed is multiplied by 100 to get the gsm of the fabric. Projection balance Purpose: It is for finding the fibre content of the fabric. Different fibers have a particular structure by which they can be identified. PHAN pH meter Purpose: It is used to find the pH of the fabric. Acceptable range of pH is 5-8. However the acceptable range varies from buyer to buyer. Process: 250 ml of water is boiled and 10 g sample is put in it. Boiling is further continued for 10 minutes. The water is cooled to room temperature and sample is removed. pH meter is dipped in this water and pH button is pressed. It then displays the pH. Wet processing is redone in case pH is not within the prescribed range. Hotplate Purpose: It is for heating purposes. IFB front loading washing machine Purpose: It is for determining the response to washing for garments or fabrics. It helps in testing the dimensional stability (shrinkage, extension). Process: Washing cycles are introduced for garments for 45 minutes as per wash care instructions and after that the sample is viewed for physical changes of color, size and appearance. Multifiber cloth is attached to determine color fastness. Paramount Launderometer Purpose: It is used for washcare development. It is a stronger machine and is five times more effective as compared to the IFB washing machine which is milder. 32 Paramount Digilight Purpose: It is used for testing the light fastness property of the fabric/garment. Hot air oven Purpose: It is used for drying or calculating moisture regain etc Lexus steam line steam iron Purpose: It is used for pressing the fabrics swatches when calculating shrinkage. A TRF form is to be filled and the sample is to be sent for testing to the lab. Fiber content, GSM, Color fastness etc can be teated in-house only. 33 FABRIC STORE AND INSPECTION DEPARTMENT  Fabric store at Shahi, Faridabad is a centralized store for all units in the NCR.  When the fabric is sourced and brought to the company, they are stored in the factory’s fabric storage area and it is the responsibility of fabric stores department.  From here, the fabric is taken for inspection and then stored in specific locations from where it is issued for cutting.  The fabric is stored lot-wise.  Rolls of fabric that are of similar shade are kept together.  After the fabric sourcing department places order for fabric, the production fabric is received by the fabric stores.  When the goods come in, supplier invoice is received. It has the following details: - 1. PO number 2. Number of rolls, color, length, width 3. Dispatch quantity  The goods are then offloaded and stored in receiving location.  The fabrics are then sent for inspection after which they are stored in separate racks according to whether the fabric is accepted or rejected.  The rejected fabric is returned back to the supplier.  The accepted fabric is also stored in specific locations.  They are allotted a bin number and are stored accordingly so that they can be easily located whenever required.  Also a bin card is maintained which has details of the fabric received, where it has been issued, how much is issued and how much is left with the store.  After receiving, the fabric inspection is carried out. The fabric is checked 100% barring the following situations in case of which it is checked only 10%: 1. If it is from some buyer nominated vendor. 2. If it is imported. 3. If it is from SFL. In this case, only 10% of fabric is checked because the fabric is checked at Sarla Fabrics before it is dispatched. 34 WORKFLOW OF THE FABRIC STORE AND INSPECTION DEPARTMENT No Yes Fabric in-house in store Uploaded in system by floor incharge Goods Received Note provided by store incharge Physical and technical counter check by goods received note Report to DMM/Fabric sourcing department Test by lab Is fabric imported/ mill made? 100% lotting 100% lotting 100% audit of each lots 10% random audit of each lot Report consolidation Report to DMM Report accepted? Uploaded in system Report to fabric store Uploaded in system Return fabric to party Ready to cut Rejected Accepted Yes No End Start Yes No Report to fabric store If acceptable 35 Fabric Audit Procedure Non denim 1. Receive the fabric from fabric store. 2. Compare the fabric with original/buyer approved swatch for design, shade etc. 3. Audit 10% Fabric in case of imported/millmade fabrics and 100% otherwise. 4. 4 points system is followed for marking of defects, which is as follows: 5. Colored stickers are used for defects of different points: 6. Mention the face & back of audited fabric with stickers on one swatch which is to be attached to be given to cutting. 7. Prepare the shade band of printed & solid fabric. 8. Swatches of shade wise lots of every fabric that is being audited is shown to concerned authorities. 9. If both fabric audit & lab audit reports are ok fabric will be issued to cutting. 36 COMPUTERIZED EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT The computer embroidery department is centralized. Shahi has largest embroidery facility in ASIA. The manual embroidery is mainly outsourced.  The merchandiser takes the art work from the buyer  Pieces to be embroidered are first cut and ticketed and then they come for embroidery. The cut pieces bear the lot number, size and serial number of that style so that after embroidery it can be rearranged to avoid shade variation problems in the garment.  In case the panel to be embroidered is too small to fit into the frame, strips of fabric are stitched around it to make it fit into the frame. This is done before the pieces are sent to the CED.  The design is punched into a floppy by the CAD department which is the loaded on the computerized embroidery machine. This is done using the WINGS software.  Stitching as well as embroidery threads are used which come from reputed manufacturers like Vardhman and Coats.  For different types of patterns and different sizes of cut pieces, different sizes of frames are used  Rough fabric is attached with the main fabric and some buffer is taken to save fabric and to avoid puckering due to looseness. 37 SEWING DEPARTMENT Sewing department can be termed as the heart and soul of any garment manufacturing unit. This department is responsible for the conversion of cut panels into actual garments.  Shahi Exports, Faridabad has a floor set up comprising of 21 lines of around 40 machines each.  The whole floor is divided into two sub floors, namely; floor A and floor B. The production capacity of the floors is 2,50,000 units of garment per month. When a new style comes over; the various information like operation breakdown, sewing details, critical operations etc is put up on the display board. A sample of the garment is also put up in front of the sewing line for any type of reference.  Line is set as per line layout plan.  Operations are assigned to the operators according to their skill set.  Required SPI, thread tension and needle no. is set by supervisors and mechanic as per requirement.  Line in charge & supervisor give the direction to the operators about their respective jobs.  In line checkers and QC’s ensure that the quality coming out of each operation is as per the quality specification.  Industrial Engineer do the study of operators and their respective operations again. If any change is needed in the layout and working method for maintaining the quality and production, immediate action is taken. 38 Manual Operation Sewing Process Machine Operation Ironing Operation Checking Process Inline Checking 100% Audit as per AQL 2.5 Finishing Auditing Final Checking 100% 39 WASHING DEPARTMENT  Shahi's washing department is capable of imparting different finishes such as: hard/caustic wash, enzyme wash, acid wash, stone wash, bleaching, and softener wash.  The washing machines used are equipped for garment dyeing as well as normal washing. Thus garment dyeing is also done when required. Dip-dyeing, tie-and-dye is also done here.  An Intranet challan is issued to the washing department by the dispatch department while sending the pieces for washing.  The washing department issues a hand written challan upon returning the goods after washing.  The recipes for washing and dyeing etc are developed by the testing lab during the testing of the fabric and then handed to the washing department.  The capacity of the washing department is 1800 kg/day. RECIPES OF MOST COMMONLY USED WASHING TECHNIQUES: Normal Wash: Wetting, 20-20 mins, 40-45 C Hydro Tumble dry, 40-45 mins, 60 –70C 40 Enzyme Wash: Desizing, 20mins, 50C, Desizing agent – 2.5% OWF Rinse (2 cycles) Maintain pH (4.5 – 5.5) by acetic acid Enzyme wash, 30mins, 55-60 C, enzyme – 3.5% OWF Bleach using hypo (if required to strip the color) Rinse (2 cycles) Neutralize with hypo crystal (sodium thio-sulphate) – 1% OWF, 10mins Rinse (2 cycles) Softener (silicon 0.7% + cationic 1.0%), 5mins running, 15 mins dip, 45-50 C Hydro Tumble dry, 60-70 C, 40-45mins 41 Softener, silicones, enzymes, anti-satin agents, neutralizers, lubricating agents, de-aerating agents, water softener etc are other chemicals used in washing. WASHING WORK FLOW Enzyme Wash Desizing Detergent Wash Bleaching Neutralization Softening 42 QUALITY ASSURANCE 100% inspection of the washed garments takes place. Once the garments have been dried, they are checked on the following aspects:  Color  Hand/feel  Measurements (to determine shrinkage)  Stains, etc Since some variation in the shades is inevitable due to batch processing of garments, the garments are separated into 3-4 shade lots during the inspection process according to recurring shade. If a garment has a drastic change in shade, or shrinkage is outside expected range, it is not accepted and may be reprocessed if possible. 43 WORKFLOW OF THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT Kaj / Button marking (manually) Receive goods from sewing Bartacking Button hole stitching Washing Button attaching Thread Cutting Thread suctioning Ironing Initial Checking Alteration (if any) Quality Audit Measurement check (10%) Final checking Re-pressing Shade matching Folding and putting in poly bags Tagging Dispatching to packing section 44 PACKAGING AND DISPATCH DEPARTMENT As Shahi Faridabad is the corporate office, it plans and controls all the shipments of it styles in NCR as well as its Bangalore and Hyderabad branches. The goods from Delhi – NCR Region are sent from the Mumbai and Kolkata Port and of Bangalore Branch are sent from Chennai port. PACKAGING Packaging is the most crucial department product. The packaging has to be very good as it attracts the customer. Thus the presentation to the customer is very crucial. Also the packaging department is in a separate area so that there is no common access to it. The records maintained by this department are essential as the loss of even one piece can cause a major problem. Records of pieces received from various units which are issued to packaging include the following.  Fabric codes  Swatch codes  Delivery schedules  Records of number of pieces received from finishing department along with their style number, ratio etc.  Records of pieces shipped along with date, quantity, ratio, mode of shipment, style no, PO etc. Each of the carton shipped is labeled with the following information printed on each:  Carton no.  Buyer’s logo  Company name  Style no.  Customer code  PO No.  Measurement of the carton  Address of the buyer  Date of Delivery  Weight  Size ratio chart  Country of origin Every country has a different type of sticker. Thus stickers are put on the cartons depending on to which country the order is going to. Packages containing the first sample, salesman sample, fabric swatches etc are dispatched to buyers almost every alternate day. 45 DISPATCH The responsibility of this department is to monitor the inflow and the outflow of the material to and from the company. It does the work of receiving and issuing of the material. Some of the records maintained by this department on the on line system are:  Checklist  Finishing pending  Records  Dispatch receipt  Dispatch issue Documents which need to be carried by the driver of vehicle carrying company’s goods are:  Form – 31: It is required while crossing state borders. It carries driver’s name, description of goods, quantity, issuing company’s name and date.  Challan: It carries the PO number, style number and number of pieces. Stickers Put on the Cartons Information regarding the carton are printed on a sticker which is then stuck on the carton so that it can be identified. The information on the stickers was mentioned earlier. 46 ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING The enterprise resource planning software used in Shahi Exports Private Limited is Movex. Earlier Shahi used oracle based ERP software system to update and circulate the information. Now seeing the increasing demand for quick management of information and data Shahi updated itself with the JAVA based application MOVEX. APPLICATION OF MOVEX  Resource and material planning: combines traditional resource planning solution for scope , terminology and theoretical benefits with innovative organizational solutions.  Product data management: stores and reuses information needed by various administrative processes in manufacturing and distribution companies.  Project management: improves the project management in terms of dates, plan and different other industries.  Financial control: handles all aspects of the controlling requirements so that one can analyze, plan and display detailed management views of key business processes.  Manufacturing: combines flexibility and deep functionality with an ability to support a wide range of different manufacturing environments and strategies.  Maintenance: provides an advanced maintenance application with extensive functionality designed to support wide ranging business needs.  Financial management: is a flexible, internet enabled system that handles all aspects of financial management and enables you to utilize the crucial information that drives today’s business decisions. BENEFITS OF MOVEX  It manages machines and financial assets for current and future business efficiencies.  Movex ERP contains a number of powerful tools for managing enterprise resources such as human skill, machinery and equipment, financial status etc. It includes dynamic solution for integrating global multi unit organizations using different currencies, languages, business principles and legal aspects.  Movex is seamlessly integrated with Movex Customer Relationship Management and Movex Supply Chain Planning & Execution and thereby provides the ability to boost revenues through increased timely sales and an efficient supply chain. In addition Movex provides an online way of controlling financial situations which is a must in the economy prevailing. 47  Movex provides with a foundation to efficiently manage and control internal resources and finances, thus allowing focusing on maximizing revenues and customer satisfaction. For instance Movex Maintenance manages machinery and equipment assets to ensure that proactive maintenance is carried out, which minimizes downtime cost and low product quality.  Another application, Financial Controlling and Management, enables to plan and follow up on financial resources to support future business growth or change. Product Data Management enables to share valuable information about products in processes such as sales, manufacturing and planning. 48 THANK YOU