14 Thailand 13 Directory

© Lonely Planet Publications737 TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB Directory CONTENTS Accommodation Activities Business Hours Children Climate Charts Courses Customs Regulations Dangers & Annoyances Embassies & Consulates Festivals & Events Food Gay & Lesbian Travellers Holidays Insurance Internet Access Legal Matters Maps Money Photography & Video Post Shopping Telephone Time Toilets Tourist Information Travellers With Disabilities Visas Women Travellers 737 739 740 741 742 742 743 743 746 747 747 747 748 748 748 748 748 749 749 750 750 752 753 753 753 754 754 755 ACCOMMODATION Thailand offers a wide variety of accommodation from cheap and basic to pricey and luxurious. Accommodation rates listed in this book are high-season prices for either single or double rooms. Icons are included to indicate where internet access, swimming pools or air-con are available; otherwise, assume that there’s a fan. A two-tiered pricing system has been used in this book to determine budget category (budget, midrange, top end). In big cities and beach resorts, rates under 1000B are budget, under 3000B are midrange, with top end over 3000B. For small towns, rates under 600B are budget, under 1500B are midrange and top end over 1500B. In places where spoken English might be limited, it is handy to have the following: hôrng pát lom (room with fan) and hôrng aa (room with air-con). The following are descriptions of the types of lodging you’ll find in Thailand. Guesthouses Guesthouses are generally the cheapest accommodation in Thailand and can be found all along the backpacker trail. In areas like the northeast and parts of the southeast, guesthouses (as well as tourists) are not as widespread. Rates vary according to facilities, from a rock-bottom 150B for a room with shared bathroom and a rickety fan to over 600B for a room with private facilities, air-con and a TV. Many guesthouses make their bread and butter from their onsite restaurants that serve the classic backpacker fare (banana pancakes and fruit shakes). Although these restaurants are convenient and a good way to meet other travellers, don’t measure Thai food based on dishes you’ve eaten in famously mediocre guesthouses. Most guesthouses cultivate a travellers’ ambience with friendly knowledgeable staff and minor amenities like tourist information and book exchanges. But there are also plenty of guesthouses with grumpy, often disgruntled, clerks who let customers know that they dislike their jobs. Increasingly guesthouses can handle advance reservations, but due to inconsistent cleanliness and quality it is advisable to always look at a room in person before committing. In tourist centres, if your preferred place is full, there are usually a dozen alternatives nearby. Guesthouses typically only accept cash payments. A subset of the traditional guesthouse is the beach bungalow, which occupies the backpacker destinations along the Thai coastline. BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online. DIRECTORY 738 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n PRACTICALITIES „ Bangkok Post and the Nation publish national and international news daily. „ There are more than 400 AM and FM radio stations; short-wave radios can pick up BBC, VOA, Radio Australia, Deutsche Welle and Radio France International. „ Six VHF TV networks carry Thai pro- gramming, plus TrueVision UBC cable with international programming. „ The main video format is PAL. „ Thailand uses 220V AC electricity; power outlets most commonly feature two-prong round or flat sockets. „ Thailand follows the international met- ric system. Gold and silver are weighed in bàat (15g). Increasingly rare are the simple palm thatch and bamboo huts, which have been replaced by sturdier wooden or concrete bungalows. Regardless of quality, many bungalows are usually smack dab on the beach or built on a hillside overlooking the ocean. Hotels & Resorts In provincial capitals and small towns, the only options are often older Thai-Chinese hotels, once the standard in all of Thailand. Most cater to Thai guests and English is usually limited. These hotels are multistorey buildings and might offer a range of rooms from midrange options like private bathrooms, air-con and TV to cheaper ones with shared bath facilities and a fan. In some of the older hotels, the toilets are squats and the ‘shower’ is a klong jar (a large terracotta basin from which you scoop out water for bathing). Although the Thai-Chinese hotels have got tons of accidental retro charm, unless the establishment has been recently refurbished, we’ve found that they are too old and worn to represent good value compared to the guesthouses. In recent years, there has been a push to fill the budget gap for ageing backpackers or young affluent travellers who want the ambience of a guesthouse with the comforts of a hotel. Now in major tourist towns, new ‘flashpacker’ hotels have dressed up the utilitarian options of the past with stylish decor and creature comforts. lonelyplanet.com International chain hotels can be found in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket and other high-end beach resorts. Many of these upscale resorts incorporate traditional Thai architecture with modern minimalism. Most top-end hotels and some midrange hotels add a 7% government tax (VAT) and an additional 10% service charge. The additional charges are often referred to as ‘plus plus’. A buffet breakfast will often be included in the room rate. If the hotel offers Western breakfast, it is usually referred to as ‘ABF’, a strange shorthand meaning American breakfast. Midrange and chain hotels, especially in major tourist destinations, can be booked in advance and some offer internet discounts through their websites or online agents. They also accept most credit cards, but only a few deluxe places accept American Express. In most countries, ‘resort’ refers to hotels that offer substantial recreational facilities (eg tennis, golf, swimming and sailing) in addition to accommodation and dining. In Thai hotel lingo, however, the term simply refers to any hotel that isn’t in an urban area. Hence a few thatched beach huts or a cluster of bungalows in a forest may be called a ‘resort’. Several places in Thailand fully deserve the resort title under any definition – but it will pay for you to look into the facilities before making a reservation. National Parks Accommodation Most national parks have bungalows or campsites available for overnight stays. Bungalows typically sleep as many as 10 people and rates range from 800B to 2000B, depending on the park and the size of the bungalow. These are popular with extended Thai families who bring enough provisions to survive the Apocalypse. A few parks also have reu·an tăa·ou (longhouses). Camping is available at many parks for 60B per night. Some parks rent tents (300B a night) and other sleeping gear, but the condition of the equipment can be poor. The National Parks’ department (www.dnp.go.th /parkreserve) now has a comprehensive, if slightly clunky online booking system for all parks. Do note that reservations for camp sites and bungalows are handled on different pages within the website. Advance bookings can be made a month ahead and are recommended for popular parks, especially on holidays and weekends. lonelyplanet.com Cycling & Mountain Biking Long-distance cycling is becoming a popular touring option. Biking Southeast Asia with Mr Pumpy (www.mrpumpy.net) contains route suggestions, tips and other details from ‘spoke folks’. There are also countrywide cycling and mountain biking tour programs available through SpiceRoads (spiceroads.com) as well as tours operators out of Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Cycling around certain cities in Thailand is a great alternative to public transport; for details on bicycle hire see p762. Diving & Snorkelling Thailand’s two coastlines and countless islands are popular among divers for their warm and calm waters and colourful marine life. Lonely Planet’s richly illustrated Diving & Snorkelling Thailand is full of vital information for serious divers. Reef dives along the Andaman Coast are particularly rewarding – with hundreds of hard corals and reef fish catalogued in this fertile marine zone. The most spectacular diving is in the marine parks of the Similan Islands (p645) and Surin Islands (p644). Most dive operators run live-aboard trips out of Phuket (p649) and Khao Lak (p640). Diving on the Gulf Coast is available just about anywhere foreigners rest their luggage. Ko Tao (p610) has the reputation of providing the cheapest dive training but most courses feel like factories instead of classrooms. Although the water conditions are not the best, Pattaya (p234) is the closest dive spot to Bangkok, with several wreck dives. Most islands have easily accessible snorkelling amid offshore reefs that are covered by water no deeper than 2m. Local fisherman will also take out groups for day-long snorkelling tours to various sites around the islands. Masks, fins and snorkels are readily available for rent at dive centres and guesthouses in beach areas. If you’re particular about the quality and condition of the equipment you use, however, you might be better off bringing your own mask and snorkel – some of the stuff for rent is second rate. Other Watersports The most dramatic scenery for kayaking is along the Andaman Coast. It’s littered with bearded limestone mountains and semisubmerged caves. Many sea-kayaking tours take visitors to scenic Ao Phang-Nga (p647). Krabi (p681) is the one-stop beach destination for sporty types, and sea-kayaking tours explore emerald lagoons and sea caves. Kayaking trips through the Ang Thong Marine Park (p623), off the coast of Ko Samui, is the Gulf’s premier paddling spot. Most tour operators use open-deck kayaks since water and air temperatures in Thailand SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR DIVING Before embarking on a scuba diving, skin diving or snorkelling trip, carefully consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience: „ Possess a current diving-certification card from a recognised scuba diving instructional agency. „ Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions at the dive site (eg from a reputable local dive operation). „ Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about marine life and the environment. „ Dive only at sites within your realm of experience; if available, engage the services of a competent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master. „ Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region, or even site, to an- other. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site and dive conditions. These differences influence the way divers dress for a dive and what diving techniques they use. „ Ask about the environmental characteristics that can affect your diving and how trained local divers deal with these considerations. DIRECTORY ACTIVITIES Thailand has developed a thriving softadventure scene that matches a low-impact activity with sightseeing. Most tours are glorified highlight trips in a minivan but a few allow people to sweat and strain in the jungle. D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 739 DIRECTORY 740 D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s are warm. When signing up for a tour, find out if you or a guide is the primary paddler; some are more sightseeing than exercise. The rivers of northern Thailand offer white-knuckle white-water trips during and after the monsoon season. Trips are organised out of Pai (p441), Chiang Mai (p299) and to a lesser extent in Nan province. Windsurfing enjoys a modest following in Pattaya (p237) and Phuket (p649). In general the windy months on the Gulf of Thailand are from mid-February to April. On the Andaman Sea side of the peninsula the winds are strongest from September to December. At certain times of year on Phuket, the normally subdued Andaman roars into shore with enough energy to steer a surfboard. Rock Climbing Way back before the Stone Age, Thailand sat at the bottom of a vast ocean that lapped against the Tibetan Plateau. When the ocean eventually receded and mainland Southeast Asia popped up, the skeletons of deceased marine life left behind a swath of chalk-white caves and cliffs the whole length of Thailand. While the Tibetans lost backyard surfing rights, the Thais got the milky-white, pock-marked, medium-hard limestone perfect for chalky fingers and Scarpa-clad toes. Fa·ràng backpackers were the first to slam bolt to stone in the mid1980s, but the Thais have quickly followed suit. Rock climbing has become so popular that the Thais have begun sending climbers to amateur contests in the USA and Australia. Krabi’s Hat Railay (p688) is Thailand’s climbing mecca. The huge headland and tiny islands nearby offer high-quality limestone with steep pocketed walls, overhangs and the occasional hanging stalactite. But what makes climbing here so popular are the views. Your reward for a vertical assault on a cliff isn’t just the challenge to gravity but also a bird’s eye perspective of a sparkling blue bay and humpbacked mountains. If the crowds in Krabi are too much, check out Ko Phi-Phi or head north to Chiang Mai (p299). Trekking Wilderness walking or trekking is one of northern Thailand’s biggest draws. Many routes feature daily walks through forested mountain areas coupled with overnight stays in hill-tribe villages and elephant rides to satisfy both ethno- lonelyplanet.com and ecotourism urges. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are the primary base points for these tours. Other trekking areas in the north include Mae Hong Son, Pai, Chiang Dao, Tha Ton, Nan and Um Phang. In southwestern Thailand, Kanchanaburi has become an outdoor trekking destination with easier access to Bangkok. These adventures rank high on most travellers’ to-do lists, but the final verdict is often mixed. Hill-tribe trekking has many detractors because of concerns over exploitation and tourism overload. Some companies and guesthouses in less-touristed areas are actually able to live up to travellers’ expectations of providing an authentic cultural exchange with hill-tribe villagers and intense jungle experiences but we’re not big fans of running off to the most far-flung place to find ‘same same but different’. It is difficult to recommend a particular trekking company as guides often float between companies and the participants will vary each trip. Officially all guides should be licensed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). This means they have received at least regional and survival training, and they are registered, which is useful if there are problems later. The guide should be able to show you their licence and certificate. Green licences are for trekking only, pink are for sightseeing only and silver ones are for guides licensed to do both. In general tour companies are safer and better regulated now than years past but you should still talk to fellow travellers for recommendations. If an organised trek doesn’t appeal to you, consider travelling to Mae Salong (p358), an interesting highland town where you can arrange independent trekking trips. The best time to trek is during the cool season (roughly November to February) when the weather is refreshing, the landscape is still green, the waterfalls are full from the monsoon rains and the wildflowers are in bloom. Between March and May the hills are dry and the weather is quite hot. The second-best time is early in the rainy season, between June and July, before the dirt roads become too saturated. For a discussion about the responsibility issues of entering hill-tribe villages see p47. BUSINESS HOURS Most government offices are open from 8.30am to 4.30pm weekdays. Some government offices close from noon to 1pm for lonelyplanet.com CHILDREN Thais love children and will shower attention and sweets on them as if they were celebrities. Children can easily find ready playmates among their Thai counterparts and a ‘temporary’ nanny service at practically every stop. Thais are so family focused that you’ll find otherwise disinterested parties wanting to pinch at your children’s cheeks and play a game of peekaboo (called ‘já ăir’) with amusable babies. To smooth out the usual road bumps of dragging children from place to place, check out Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children, which contains useful advice on how to cope with kids on the road, with a focus on travel in developing countries. Health & Safety For the most part parents needn’t worry too much about health concerns, although it pays to lay down a few ground rules (such as regular hand washing) to head off potential medical problems. Children should be warned not to play with animals as rabies is relatively common in Thailand and many dogs are better at being barkers and garbage eaters than pets. All the usual health precautions apply (see p771). Practicalities Amenities specially geared towards young children – such as child-safety seats for cars, high chairs in restaurants or nappy-changing facilities in public restrooms – are virtually nonexistent in Thailand. Therefore parents will have to be extra resourceful in seeking out substitutes or just follow the example of Thai families (which means holding smaller children on their laps much of the time). TYPICAL OPENING HOURS „ Bars – 6pm-midnight or 1am (times vary depending on local enforcement of national curfew laws) „ Department stores – 10am-8pm or 9pm Monday to Sunday „ Discos – 8pm-2am „ Live-music venues – 6pm-1am „ Restaurants – 10am-10pm „ Local shops – 10am-6pm Monday to Saturday, some open Sunday Baby formula and nappies (diapers) are available at minimarkets and 7-Elevens in the larger towns and cities, but the sizes are usually small, smaller and smallish. If your kid wears size 3 or larger, head to Tesco Lotus, Big C or Tops Market stores. Nappy rash cream is sold at the pharmacies. Hauling around little ones can be a challenge. Thailand’s footpaths are oftentimes too crowded to push a pram, especially today’s full-sized SUV versions. Instead opt for a compact umbrella stroller that can squeeze past the fire hydrant and the mango cart and that can be folded up and thrown in a túk-túk. A baby pack is also useful but make sure that the child’s head doesn’t sit higher than yours: there are lots of hanging obstacles poised at forehead level. Although you might be in food heaven, kids can be a little resistant to culinary adventures. In general Thai children don’t start to eat spicy food until elementary school, before then they seemingly survive on kôw nĕe·o and jelly snacks. Other kid-friendly meals include chicken in all of its non-spicy permutations – gài yâhng (grilled chicken), gài tôrt (fried chicken) and gài pàt mét má·môo·ang (chicken stir-fried with cashew nuts) – as well as kôw pàt (fried rice), kài jee·o (Thai-style omelette) and gŏo·ay đĕe·o (noodle soups). See also p90. Sights & Activities Of the many destinations in Thailand, children will especially enjoy the beaches, as most are in gentle bays good for beginner swimmers. Animal amusements abound in Thailand, but animal conditions and treatment are often below par compared with DIRECTORY lunch, while others have Saturday hours (9am-3pm). Banking hours are typically 9.30am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday. ATMs are usually accessible 24 hours a day and bank branches with extended hours can be found at the big department stores such as Tesco Lotus and Big C. Privately owned stores usually operate between 10am and 5pm daily. Most local restaurants are open 10am until 10pm, with an hour’s variation on either side. Some restaurants, specialising in morning meals close by 3pm. Please note that all government offices and banks are closed on public holidays (see p748). D I R E C T O R Y • • C h i l d re n 741 bamboo rafting and other outdoor activities around Chiang Mai and Kanchanaburi are more animal. with dedicated kitchen facilities and individual work stations.and kid-friendly. °F 0 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D °C mm 50 68 20 BANGKOK Rainfall in CLIMATE CHARTS °C Average Max/Min 10m (36ft) Temp/Humidity % 20 °F mm 0 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D . a resourceful entrepreneur might hang a sign on the front door and students join the rhythm of a typical Thai kitchen. Bangkok’s courses (p144) tend to be more formal. but Chiang Mai is the undisputed cooking-course capital (see p300). jackhammers and concrete-pouring trucks. Elephant rides. SURAT THANI °C 40 104 100 20 500 30 75 16 400 12 300 8 200 4 100 86 10 50 25 0 32 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D UBON RATCHATHANI °F Temp/Humidity in 20 500 30 75 16 400 12 300 8 200 4 100 86 25 0 32 0 40 104 30 20 Average Max/Min in 100 20 500 16 400 12 300 8 200 75 86 68 Rainfall % mm 10 50 25 4 100 0 32 0 0 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D CHIANG MAI °C °F Temp/Humidity % in 100 20 500 16 400 12 300 8 200 4 100 30 86 75 20 68 50 10 50 25 0 32 0 PHUKET °F 40 104 30 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D Average Max/Min 10m (33ft) Temp/Humidity 86 Rainfall 0 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D Average Max/Min 181m (597ft) Temp/Humidity Rainfall % in 40 104 100 20 500 30 75 16 400 12 300 8 200 4 100 86 mm 50 68 10 50 25 0 32 0 0 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D COURSES Cooking Cooking courses pop up wherever there are tourists willing to dice some shallots. Bangkok is great fun for those in awe of construction sites: the city is filled with cranes. For other itinerary ideas. See the individual destination chapters for recommended schools. 75 20 68 50 10 50 25 0 32 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D mm 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D °C Average Max/Min Rainfall °F J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D 313m (1030ft) 40 104 UDON THANI °C mm 50 68 J F MAM J J A S O N D 20 50 Rainfall % 50 20m (66ft) Average Max/Min 100 10 Temp/Humidity 121m (400ft) 40 104 See p18 for further information on choosing the best time of year for your visit to Thailand. Kids on a train kick might like an overnight journey.com standards in the West. Both cities also offer an array of short-term coursework tailored to suit different communication needs from business Thai to reading and writing. see p28. Elsewhere. On the train they can walk around and they’re assigned the lower sleeping berths with views of the stations. which is decorated with dinosaur statues and boasts a nearby national park and museum with dinosaur bones in situ. Older children might enjoy the northeastern town of Khon Kaen (p493). % in 100 20 500 Language 16 400 12 300 8 200 4 100 Formal. university-affiliated language programs are available in Bangkok (p145) and Chiang Mai (p301).DIRECTORY 742 D I R E C T O R Y • • C l i m a t e C h a r t s lonelyplanet. For even a brief visit.com One of the fastest growing sectors of Thailand’s educational tourism. Thai language is usually the medium of instruction but several places also provide instruction in English. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS Thailand prohibits the import of firearms and ammunition (unless registered in advance with the police department). DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Although Thailand is in not a dangerous country to visit. a photocopy of your passport. Thai Massage Thai massage is more like a yoga workout than a deep-tissue massage. A reasonable amount of clothing. Export licence applications can be made by submitting two front-view photos of the object(s). toiletries and professional instruments are allowed in duty free.customs. Traditional moo·ay tai camps. Meditation Thailand has long been a popular place for Buddhist meditation study. who elevate the prestige and earnings of the teacher and the school. especially when it comes to dealing with strangers (both Thai and foreigners) and travelling alone. The customs department (www. and subsidise the training through increased tuition fees. The centre of Thai massage pedagogy is at Wat Pho (p146) in Bangkok. you must obtain an export licence for any antiques or objects of art. Better suited for the athlete interested in the sport rather than becoming a potential prize fighter are the camps that specialise in training Westerners. you are more likely to be ripped off or have a personal possession surreptitiously stolen than you are to be physically harmed. Some foreign fighters with the potential for competitive success have trained in these schools but they did so through personal introductions and a dedication to the sport. the diet is rudimentary and the facilities are little more than a dusty ring for sparring and a few shared cabins. Some places require that you wear white clothes when staying overnight. %0 2628 5032).th) maintains a helpful website with more specific information. Bangkok and Chiang Mai have long-established foreigner-friendly training camps. Teaching methods vary but the general emphasis is on observing mind-body processes from moment to moment. to the Department of Fine Arts (DFA. Phuket and other resort towns have less serious schools intended for less serious students. Foreigners who come to Thailand to study vipassana can choose from dozens of temples and meditation centres specialising in these teachings. Training in Thai massage is available in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. a Pali word that roughly translates as ‘insight’. illegal drugs and pornographic media. along with the purchase receipt and the object(s) in question. Many of these facilities have English-speaking trainers and better equipment. DIRECTORY Moo•ay Tai (Thai Boxing) D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s R e g u l a t i o n s 743 . Contact details for some of the more popular meditation-oriented temples and centres are given in the destination chapters of this guide. especially in the rural areas. In reality. moo·ay tai (Thai boxing. When leaving Thailand. Unique to Buddhism. The training sessions are gruelling. it is smart to exercise caution. Training periods can range from a one-day course to multi-week sessions. Instruction and accommodation are free of charge at temples. is a system of meditation known as vipassana (wí·Ъàt·sà·nah in Thai).go. Up to 200 cigarettes and 1L of wine or spirits can be brought into the country duty free. Allow three to five days for the application and inspection process to be completed. particularly Theravada and to a lesser extent Tibetan Buddhism. also spelt muay thai) training takes place at dozens of camps around the country.lonelyplanet. The theory behind the tradition is to promote health by manipulating certain sên (pressure points) along the body meridians so that energy is distributed evenly throughout the nervous system. The dynamic aspects of Thai massage also address the muscular-skeletal system in a way that is often compared to modern physiotherapy and chiropractic. Do be aware that the potential for some camps to be interested only in tuition fees is a concern and it pays to do a lot of advance research. are in the business of training winning fighters. wear clean and neat clothing (ie long trousers or skirt and sleeves that cover the shoulders). although donations are expected. including newly cast Buddha images. violence has escalated from attacks on perceived symbols of the government (provincial officials. resulted in a military buildup and violent clashes between Thai and Cambodian forces in 2007. a sneak attack or worse by a Thai. especially solo travellers in Samui or Pha-Ngan. From 2004 to 2007 there was an average of 160 violent occurrences per month. Also be aware that an innocent flirtation might convey firmer intentions to a recipient who does not share your culture’s sexual norms. Attacks varied from insurgent-style activity to gang-like shootings. There are often reports of fights. but civilian attacks have increased and it is a distinct possibility that an unsuspecting traveller might get caught in the wrong place. it is an invitation for fisticuffs. soldiers. coordinated bombings of marketplaces. banks and train stations. There is a surprising amount of assaults in Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan considering their idyllic settings. though bombings have occurred in downtown sections of the provincial capitals of Yala and Pattani provinces. The ongoing violence in the Deep South (see right) has made the once popular crossing at Sungai Kolok a potentially dangerous proposition. Since 2002. On rare occasions the Myanmar government has impetuously closed these points without notice. Opportunists pounce when too many whisky buckets are involved. While gun violence is almost unheard of in Thailand. At the time of writing. do be aware that causing a Thai to ‘lose face’ (feel public embarrassment or humiliation) might elicit an inexplicably strong and violent reaction. Oftentimes alcohol is the number one contributor to bad choices and worse outcomes. need to be smart and somewhat sober when interacting with the opposite sex. leaving day-pass lonelyplanet. Pattani and Narathiwat) experience frequent occurrences of violence believed to be connected to an amorphous but ongoing ethno-nationalist struggle. While both parties are probably to blame (and alcohol is often a factor). rapes and robbings. in the far northeast of the country. Cross-border relations with Thailand and Myanmar during the Thaksin era have resulted in increased cooperation between the two governments and the discontinuation of the Thai army providing assistance to minority resistance groups in Myanmar. While a good cuss-out might be an acceptable way to vent anger in the West. Although tensions have relaxed since. The long-contested border temple of Khao Phra Wihan (known as ‘Preah Vihear’ in Cambodia). More likely closures are due to news-making events like Thailand’s 2006 coup. Many of the border crossings between Thailand and Myanmar are day-use only and attract people renewing their visas or poking around the border markets. We’ve received letters detailing fights between travellers and Thai guesthouse workers or other Thai youths. but it does happen. no foreign tourists had been directly targeted. Periodic bombings have also occurred in the southern commercial and transport hub of Hat Yai and in border districts of Songkhla Province. We would discourage taking the train through . be they Thai or fa·ràng. teachers and monks) to seemingly random (though possibly vendetta-motivated) killings on average citizens. Ko Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon party is becoming increasingly violent and dangerous. the temple is still closed to visitors. Although the Thai government has political motivations to connect the violence in the Deep South to global terror networks such as Al Qaeda and regional militant groups such as Jemaah Islamiyah.DIRECTORY 744 D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s Assault Assault of travellers is rare in Thailand.com visitors stranded. Women. and increasingly sophisticated. Deep South Violence Currently Thailand’s southernmost Muslimmajority provinces (Yala. there have been a few instances of foreigners getting into fights with off-duty police officers who have used their weapons in retaliation. Border Issues Thailand enjoys much better relations with its neighbours than it did a decade ago and many land borders are now functional and safe passages for goods and people. Most violence is confined to the three provinces known collectively as the Deep South and primarily to more rural districts within these provinces. most observers do not believe that the region’s insurgents are closely linked to these groups. further complicating attempts to clearly define the groups and their intentions. Keeping abreast of current events prior to arriving at the border will prevent potential problems. although caution should be exercised. One way or another. Drug smuggling – defined as attempting to cross a border with drugs in your possession – carries considerably higher penalties. D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 745 . almost all of which end up with you making a purchase of small low-quality gems and posting them to your home country. during the height of the campaign police searched partygoers in Bangkok nightclubs and effectively scared many of the recreational drug users into abstinence for a time. often fining bars for creative applications of the entertainment prohibitions and entering establishments visibly carrying weapons. or perhaps it’s the shop’s 10th anniversary. A new era of vigilance against drug use and possession was ushered in by former Prime Minister Thaksin’s 2003 war on drugs. In some cases.com Druggings & Drug Possession More common amongst sex tourists than backpackers. the cheap jewels turn out to be worth much less than you paid for them (perhaps one-tenth to one-half). Inviting a prostitute to your hotel room can have the same results. After all. Ko PhaNgan’s police are notorious for bribable ‘sting’ operations in which a drug dealer makes an exchange with a customer. it is still a functioning city and for now is safe enough to travel in and out of. but your new friend offers several alternative activities. During citywide festivals. Things have relaxed somewhat since the 2006 coup but the country is no longer a chemical free-for-all. The Pai police have been following a policy of intimidation towards foreign revellers. Belying Thailand’s anything-goes atmosphere are severely strict punishments for possession and trafficking that are not relaxed for foreigners. hallucinogenic mushrooms and marijuana in Thailand. you are convinced that you can turn a profit by arranging a gem purchase and reselling the merchandise at home. though this situation should be monitored. such as sightseeing at smaller temples or shopping at authentic markets. DIRECTORY the Thai–Malaysian border at Sungai Kolok – a popular crossing for tourists heading to the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia.000B. It would be safer to cross the border on the western side of the peninsula. Scams Thais can be so friendly and laid-back that some visitors are lulled into a false sense of security making them vulnerable to scams of all kinds. you are next invited to a gem and jewellery shop because your new-found friend is picking up some merchandise for himself. male travellers have reported accepting cigarettes. Pai has seen a recent revival of the Thaksin-era urine drug tests on bar patrons by police. Most scams begin in the same way: a friendly and well-dressed Thai. Somewhere along the way he usually claims to have a connection. drinks or food from flirtatious Thai women only to wake up sometime later with a headache and without their valuables. enforcement of the drug laws is merely leverage for exacting massive bribes. in your home country (what a coincidence!) with whom he has a regular gem export-import business. the strong-arm gift of freedom in such cases is 10.lonelyplanet. often a relative. Another party town. approaches you and strikes up a conversation. amphetamines. Although Hat Yai is considered a target for bombings.000B to avoid arrest. heroin. of course. Invariably your destination is closed or being cleaned. Bangkok is especially good at long-involved frauds that dupe travellers into thinking that they’ve made a friend and are getting a bargain. After you’ve come to trust the person. The provincial capital of Songkhla should also be fairly safe for visitors. As of writing. sell or possess opium. either by bus or train from Hat Yai or by boat from Satun. the jewellery shop just happens to be offering a generous discount today – it’s a government or religious holiday. Possession of drugs can result in at least one year or more of prison time. followed shortly by a police bust and an on-site demand of 70. such as Bangkok’s New Year’s Eve and Ko Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon parties. police set up road blocks and inspection stations in an attempt to apprehend drug suppliers and their contraband. It is illegal to buy. believing that merchants are entitled to whatever price they can get. or sometimes even a foreigner. or maybe they’ve just taken a liking to you! There are seemingly infinite numbers of variations on the scam described above. The Thai police are usually no help whatsoever. including execution. It is not advisable to travel between Hat Yai and Songkhla after dark. Once you return home. Travel agencies often masquerade as TAT. Follow the same practise when you’re travelling. strikes up a conversation and then invites them to their house or apartment for a drink or meal. To avoid losing all of your travel money in an instant. don’t let vendors take your credit card out of your sight to run it through the machine. Also resist any highsales tactics from an agent trying to sign you up for everything: plane tickets. When making transport arrangements. Take anything a tout says with scepticism. The most honest Thais are typically very low-key and often sub-par salespeople. A friendly stranger approaches the lone traveller on the street. jewellery or handicraft shops. Take care when leaving valuables in hotel safes. it just so happens a little high-stakes card game is planned for later that day. Australia (Map p124. %0 2344 6300. This is a common occurrence on the tourist buses from Khao San Rd to the southern beaches or north to Chiang Mai. as the commission percentage varies greatly between agents. and while Thailand doesn’t have as many touts as. we suggest you watch the movie The Hustler. but eventually the victim is shown some cheating tactics to use with help from the ‘dealer’. These invariably take a commission from your purchases. Other minor scams involve túk-túk drivers. Like the gem scam. Theft & Fraud Exercise diligence when it comes to your personal belongings. hotel. In this case the victim’s greed isn’t the ruling motivation – it’s simply a matter of weak sales resistance. Be aware that the official TAT offices do not make hotel or transport bookings. sometimes surrounded. Travel agencies are notorious for talking newly arrived tourists into staying at badly located. the government-funded tourist information office.th. overpriced hotels. talk to several travel agencies to look for the best price. 37 Th Sathon Tai. Ensure that your room is securely locked and carry your most important effects (passport. In the popular tourist spots you’ll be approached.com whether you’d been billed by the same vendor more than once. credit cards) on your person. money. by guesthouse touts who get a commission for bringing in potential guests.DIRECTORY 746 D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s Card games are another way to separate travellers from their money. www. the card game has many variations. Bangkok) . If such a place offers to do this for you then they are a travel agent not a tourist information office. Some places refuse to pay commissions so in return the touts will steer customers to places that do pay. tours etc. Follow TAT’s number-one suggestion to tourists: Disregard all offers of free shopping or sightseeing help from strangers. Contact the tourist police (%1155) if you have any problems with consumer fraud. hotel employees and bar girls who take new arrivals on city tours. When using a credit card. so that you can’t remember lonelyplanet. Touts Touting is a long-time tradition in Asia. it has its share.or.aust embassy. Again. some practise sessions take place and finally the game gets under way with several high rollers at the table. And if you don’t know how this ends. Unscrupulous merchants have been known to rub off three or four or more receipts with one purchase. India. Sometimes they wait several weeks – even months – between submitting each charge receipt to the bank. Since touts get paid for delivering you to a guesthouse or hotel (whether you check in or not). While it is annoying for the traveller. After a bit of socialising a friend or relative of the con arrives on the scene. This type of commission work is not limited to low-budget guesthouses. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Foreign embassies are located in Bangkok. some nations also have consulates in Chiang Mai. the police won’t take any action because gambling is illegal in Thailand and you’ve actually broken the law. these almost always end up in high-pressure sales situations at silk. always use a credit card that is not directly linked to your bank account back home so that the operator doesn’t have access to immediate funds. it is an acceptable form of advertising among small-scale businesses. they’ll say anything to get you in the door. say. A locked bag will not prevent theft on a long-haul bus when you’re snoozing and the practised thief has hours alone with your luggage. They might put up agents wearing fake TAT badges or have signs that read TAT in big letters to entice travellers into their offices where they can sell them overpriced bus and train tickets. %0 2287 9000. www. 28th fl.dfait-maeci. %0 2205 4000. %0 2539 6678. Q House. 15 Soi Tonson. 760 Th Sukhumvit. Laos (Map pp110-11. Bangkok) Philippines (Map pp122-3. 193 Th Ratchadaphisek. %0 2636 0540. 14 Th Withayu).th. With regard to dress or mannerism. www. Map pp118-19. Th Sukhumvit. Th Charoen Krung. Germany (Map p124. %0 2233 2237.org. Bangkok) Canada Bangkok (Map p124.um. 35 Soi 36. %0 2253 8473. 10 Soi 1.mofa.com. Tambon Tahsala) Consulate only at Chiang Mai. %0 5328 1466. www. %0 2207 8500. %0 2305 8333.british embassy. Indonesia (Map pp120-1. %0 2253 0156. 990 Th Phra Ram IV). Bangkok) New Zealand (Map pp120-1.nether landsembassy. However.np.german -embassy. Israel (Map pp122-3.gc. 151 Superhighway.nzembassy. A typical meal at a street stall should cost 25B to 40B. There is a fairly prominent gay and lesbian scene in Bangkok. www. Th Sathon Tai. Vietnam (Map pp120-1.immi. GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS Thai culture is relatively tolerant of both male and female homosexuality.bkklao embassy.kbri -bangkok. 12A fl. 35 Th Withayu. 129 Th Sathon Tai. USA Bangkok (Map pp120-1.com) posts lots of Thailand information for gay and lesbian visitors and publishes a guidebook to the kingdom for homosexuals.or. www .lonelyplanet. Bangkok) Netherlands (Map pp120-1.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 747 South Africa (Map p124.jp. %0 5326 2015.irelandinthai land. Abdulrahim Bldg. Bangkok) Switzerland (Map pp120-1.go. %0 2254 2530.in. %0 2391 7240. www. Chiang Mai (Map pp276-7. Phuket and Surat Thani.org.phil embassy-bangkok. Ocean Tower 2. %0 2204 9200. The 2007 global spike in oil prices resulted in one of the first nationwide increases of food in almost a decade: a bowl of gŏo·ay đĕe·o in Bangkok jumped from 30B to 35B. %0 2259 0139. Chiang Mai (Map pp276-7. Bangkok) India Bangkok (Map pp122-3. www. 138 Th Charoen Prathet) Consulates only in Chiang Mai. Bangkok) Consulates in Pattaya and Phuket.ambafrance-th. %0 53850147. 177 Th Withayu). www . Bangkok) UK Bangkok (Map pp120-1. Bangkok) Spain (Map pp122-3. 23 fl.com. All Seasons Pl. Pracha Uthit/Soi 39. www . Chiang Mai (Map pp2845.net. %0 5324 3066. Chiang Mai (Map pp276-7. %0 2245 7044.vietnam embassy-thailand. Lake Ratchada Office Complex. Th Sukhumvit). %02957 5851-2. The general word for festival in Thai is ngahn têt·sà·gahn. Bangkok) bangkok. 518/4 .chinaembassy. 95 Th Withayu). Utopia (www.com. All Seasons Place. Th Sathon Tai. Th Sukhumvit. %0 2286 2111. %0 2677 7500. France Bangkok (Embassy Map pp118-19. Bangkok) Ireland (Map p124. 14th fl. 9 Th Sathon Tai.sg/bangkok. 83/1 Th Withayu. Myanmar (Burma. Bangkok) There’s also a consulate in Songkhla. 29 Th Sathon Tai). FOOD Most restaurants in Thailand are inexpensive by international standards and food prices tend to hold steady throughout the year.utopia-asia.mfa . 46 Soi Prasanmit/Soi 23. %0 2309 5200. www. Chiang Mai (Map pp284-5.%0 5320 3367. 189 Soi 71. 104-107 Airport Business Park. 132 Th Sathon Neua. %0 2343 1100. Bangkok) FESTIVALS & EVENTS Thai festivals tend to be linked to the agricultural seasons or to Buddhist holidays. %0 2252 3135. www .or. 25th fl. a meal at a typical mum-anddad Thai restaurant for one should be about 80B to 150B. 35 Th Sathon Tai.th.gov.saemb Pracha Uthit/Soi Ramkamhaeng 39.emb-japan. Guesthouses and restaurants catering to foreigners tend to charge more than local restaurants. 87 Th Withayu. www. M Thai Tower. www.th. Chiang Mai (Map pp284-5. %0 5327 6125. 111 Th Chang Lor) Consulate only at Chiang Mai. %0 2258 0300-6.gov. 387 Th Wichayanon) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. 502/1-3 Soi Sahakarnpramoon. http://bang kok. 344 Th Charoenrat) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. Consular Section Map p124.gov.gov . %0 2627 2150.ca/bangkok. lesbians and gays are generally accepted without comment. China Bangkok (Map pp110-11. Bangkok) Malaysia (Map p124. M Thai Tower.dk. Chiang Mai (Map pp284-5. DIRECTORY Cambodia (Map pp110-11. Th Mahidon) Consulate only in Chiang Mai.com. 57 Th Ratchadaphisek).usembassy. Denmark (Map p124. www. %0 2251 5836-8. See the Events Calendar (p21) for more information. 15th fl. 198 Th Bamrungrat) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. public displays of affection – whether heterosexual or homosexual – are frowned upon. www. www.mm. Pattaya and Phuket. Bangkok) This is a consulate only. 25 Soi 19.uk. Th Ploenchit.com. %0 2657 5100. %0 2661 8284. Bangkok) Japan Bangkok (Map p124. www. 87 Th Withayu.gov. %0 5310 7700. the nearest Irish embassy is in Kuala Lumpur. British Council. 0 2234 4698. Bangkok) Nepal (Map pp110-11.amb bangkok.th. See p83 for thorough descriptions of the cuisine and the kinds of restaurants you’ll find in Thailand. Bangkok) Singapore (Map pp118-19. www. Th Ramakamhaeng. %0 2679 2190-9. 600-602 Th Phetchaburi. com HOLIDAYS LEGAL MATTERS Government offices and banks close on the following days. You can call the hotline number 24 hours a day to lodge complaints or to request assistance with regards to personal safety. Trials are usually speedy. the police will allow you the opportunity to make a phone call to your embassy or consulate in Thailand. The tourist police (%1155) can be very helpful in cases of arrest. If you have to claim later make sure you keep all documentation.th) produces a highquality city and country maps series. so check the small print. they may be able to help with translations or with contacting your embassy. MAPS ThinkNet (www. the end of Buddhist ‘lent’ December 5 King’s Birthday December 10 Constitution Day INSURANCE A travel-insurance policy to cover theft. Connections tend to be pretty fast and have been sped up with the proliferation of wireless access.co. complete with elevations. most prefer the Garmin units and the associated map products that are accurate and fully routed. contour lines.lonelyplanet. Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’. If you are arrested for any offence. Be sure that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home. which is fairly widespread throughout the country including the rural northeast. but a lot of discretion is left to the police. as with police worldwide.DIRECTORY 748 D I R E C T O R Y • • H o l i d a y s lonelyplanet. Although they typically have no jurisdiction over the kinds of cases handled by regular cops. Policies offer differing medical-expense options. You can buy. If anything they generally go out of their way not to arrest a foreigner breaking minor traffic laws. if you have one. whose guilt or innocence will be decided in court. motorcycling or even trekking.multi map. the beginning of Buddhist ‘lent’ August 12 Queen’s Birthday October 23 Chulalongkorn Day October/November (date varies) Ork Phansaa. which can include scuba diving. Thai law does not presume an indicted detainee to be either ‘guilty’ or ‘innocent’ but rather a ‘suspect’. depending on how much competition there is. and in many guesthouses and hotels as well. A locally acquired motorcycle licence is not valid under some policies. One major exception is drugs. There is a wide variety of policies available. Rama I May 5 Coronation Day. or an opportunity to make untaxed income via bribes. See p771 for recommendations on health insurance and p766 for details on vehicle insurance. commemorating the founder of the In general Thai police don’t hassle foreigners. if you don’t show respect you will make matters worse. especially tourists. loss and medical problems is a good idea. These maps can be purchased at the .thinknet. However. including interactive-map CDs to Bangkok. Worldwide travel insurance is available at www. commemorating the 1946 coronation of HM the King and HM the Queen July (date varies) Khao Phansaa.com/travel_services. You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. January 1 New Year’s Day April 6 Chakri Day. The going rate is anywhere from 40B to 120B an hour. extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road. Most guesthouses will offer wi-fi for free while high-end hotels offer it only in lobbies for a usage fee. or to a friend or relative if not. An online world map showing adequate street detail for Thailand can be found at Multimap (www. instead taking the approach that a warning will suffice. place names (in both Thai and roman script) and roads. There’s a whole set of legal codes governing the length of time and manner in which you can be detained before being charged or put on trial. Chakri dynasty. which most Thai police view as either a social scourge against which it’s their duty to enforce the letter of the law. Do-it-yourself trekkers or anyone with a keen interest in geography may find sheet maps issued by the Thai military to be helpful. These maps are available at a number of scales.com). For GPS users in Thailand. INTERNET ACCESS You’ll find plenty of internet cafes in most towns and cities. Only Bangkok has been slow to make wi-fi affordably accessible. In the case of foreigners the police are more likely to bend these codes in your favour. American Express is typically only accepted at high-end hotels and restaurants. Upon leaving Thailand. 5B and 10B coins. At many hotel restaurants or other upmarket eateries. which is the convention elsewhere. export of foreign currencies is unrestricted.rtsd. . while newer coins have Thai and Arabic numerals. Most banks charge a commission and duty for each travellers cheque cashed. 2B. Rarely will you be asked to produce such financial evidence. coins include 25-satang and 50-satang pieces and baht in 1B. For specific amounts for each visa type. Bangkok has adopted some standards of tipping. Malaysia. When buying baht. call the following hotlines in Bangkok. 100B (red). In the 1990s. Apart from this. Tipping Tipping is not generally expected in Thailand. demonstrations of adequate funds varies per visa type but typically does not exceed a traveller’s estimated trip budget. The exception is loose change from a large restaurant bill. ATMs are widespread throughout the country and can be relied on for the bulk of your spending cash. When this is the case.000B.th/service. There are certain monetary requirements for foreigners entering Thailand. if a meal costs 488B and you pay with a 500B note. Memory cards for digital cameras are generally widely available in the more popular formats and available in the DIRECTORY Ministry on the western side of Th Ratchini in Ko Ratanakosin. Th Kanlayana Maitri. Bangkok). As long as the funds originate from out of the country. ATMs & Credit/Debit Cards Debit and ATM cards issued by a bank in your own country can be used at ATM machines around Thailand to withdraw cash (in Thai baht only) directly from your account back home. The two satang coins are typically only issued at supermarkets where prices aren’t rounded up to the nearest baht. hotels and restaurants. there aren’t any restrictions on maintenance or withdrawal. You can also use ATMs to buy baht at foreign-exchange booths at some banks.mi. Royal Thai Survey Department (Krom Phaen Thi Thahan.mfa . It’s legal to open a foreign-currency account at any commercial bank in Thailand. It’s not so much a tip as a way of saying ‘I’m not so money grubbing as to grab every last baht’. but be aware that such laws do exist. Myanmar or Vietnam. Older coins have Thai numerals only. 500B (purple) and 1000B (beige). the 10B bills were phased out in favour of the 10B coin but occasionally you might encounter a paper survivor. opposite the Interior The basic unit of Thai currency is the baht. The 2B coin was introduced in 2007 and is confusingly similar in size and design to the 1B coin. US dollars are the most accepted currency. You can survey the survey’s maps at the website. The most commonly accepted cards are Visa and MasterCard. To report a lost or stolen credit/debit card. %0 2222 8844. Paper currency is issued in the following denominations: 20B (green). See p18 for information on the cost of travel in Thailand. An exception is made if you’re going to Cambodia. American Express (%0 2273 5544) Diners Club (%0 2238 3660) MasterCard (%001 800 11887 0663) Visa (%001 800 441 3485) Changing Money Banks or the rarer private moneychangers offer the best foreign-exchange rates. some Thais will leave the 12B change. Current exchange rates are printed in the Bangkok Post and the Nation every day. There are 100 satang in one baht.th). or you can walk into any Thai bank to see a daily rate chart. PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Thais are gadget fans and most have made the transition to digital. There is no limit to the amount of Thai or foreign currency you may bring into the country. Credit cards as well as debit cards can be used for purchases at many shops. where the limit is 500. tipping is not expected.com D I R E C T O R Y • • M o n e y 749 MONEY Foreign Exchange Map pp114-15.go.000B per person without special authorisation. visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.lonelyplanet. Laos. it is not customary to leave behind the change if it is less than 10B. a 10% service charge will be added to your bill. followed by British pounds and euros. 50B (blue). you’re permitted to take out a maximum of 50. www. especially in restaurants frequented by foreigners. Now it’s your turn to make a counteroffer. like Bangkok’s MBK and . When you receive mail. Bangkok and Chiang Mai are the two centres for the antique and reproduction trade. POST Thailand has a very efficient postal service and local postage is inexpensive. Most provincial post offices will sell do-ityourself packing boxes. Print film is still available but not as ubiquitous as it once was. Learn how to ask politely in Thai and wait for an embarrassed nod. electronic sections of most shopping malls. Image Quality Lab (IQ Lab. See p743 for information.iqlab. SHOPPING Many bargains await you in Thailand but don’t go shopping in the company of touts. Antiques Real antiques cannot be taken out of Thailand without a permit. In some of the regularly visited hill-tribe areas be prepared for the photographed subject to ask for money in exchange for a picture. Thais respect a good haggler. Ceramics Many kinds of hand-thrown pottery. Map pp118-19. In the tourist areas. most places have sophisticated enough connections that you can quickly upload digital photos to a remote storage site. 160/5 ITF Bldg. Typical provincial post offices keep the following hours: 8.30am to 4. Today most dealers sell antique reproductions or items from Myanmar. with all types of processing for print and digital printing.co. and some will pack your parcels for you for a small fee. Slide film can be hard to find outside Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Don’t loose your temper or raise your voice as drama is not a good leverage tool. thus driving prices up beyond an acceptable value and creating a nuisance for future visitors. Bargaining for nonfood items is common in street markets and some mum-and-dad shops. and central Thailand’s ben·jà·rong or ‘five-colour’ style. Bangkok) offers the widest range of professional services. %0 2266 4080. many internet shops have CD-burning software if you want to offload your pictures. Don’t send cash or other valuables through the mail. No Buddha image. though these days few tourists use it. Real Thai antiques are increasingly rare. Prices in department stores. This usually results is an immediate discount from the first price. www. always start low but don’t bargain at all unless you’re serious about buying.com BARGAINING If there isn’t a sign stating the price for an item then the price is negotiable. Be considerate when taking photographs of the locals. Always let the vendor make the first offer then ask ‘Can you lower the price?’.30pm weekdays and 9am to noon on Saturdays.th. you must show your passport and fill out some paperwork. new or old. 7-Elevens and so forth are fixed. minimarts. Larger main post offices in provincial capitals may also be open for a half-day on Sundays. old and new. Clothing Clothes tend to be inexpensive in Thailand but ready-made items are not usually cut to fit Westerners’ body types. red-earth clay of Dan Kwian. Thailand’s poste restante service is generally very reliable. tour guides or friendly strangers as they will inevitably take a commission on anything you buy. and always remember to smile. may be exported without the permission of the Department of Fine Arts. Increasingly larger-sized clothes are available in metropolitan malls. Ben·jà·rong is based on Chinese patterns while celadon is a Thai original that has been imitated throughout China and Southeast Asia. It helps immeasurably to keep the negotiations relaxed and friendly.DIRECTORY 750 D I R E C T O R Y • • P o s t lonelyplanet. Dependable E6 processing is available at several labs in Bangkok but is untrustworthy elsewhere. Alternatively. Rough unglazed pottery from the north and northeast can also be very appealing. Other hill tribes will not allow you to point a camera at them. Th Silom. Bangkok is full of modern ceramic designs while Chiang Mai sticks to traditional styles. are available throughout the kingdom. The best-known ceramics are the greenish celadon products. for example. a vendor might show you a picture of a knock-off watch. A high-quality item may have seven layers of lacquer. With lower-quality lacquerware. No-one pretends they’re the real thing. Lacquerware furniture and decorative items were traditionally made from bamboo and teak but these days mango wood might be used as the base. it has become so difficult to dodge the scammers that the country no longer represents a safe and enjoyable place to buy these goods. The quality and precision of the engraving is another thing to look for. practised mainly by Thai-Indian Sikh families. Technically it is illegal for these items to be produced and sold and Thailand has often been pressured by intellectualproperty enforcement agencies to close down the trade. In ancient times woven textiles DIRECTORY Central Department Store as well touristoriented shops throughout the country. rivalled only by India and Sri Lanka. which may have as many as five colours. The custom of returns is not widely accepted in Thailand. Resin from the Melanorrhea usitata (Burmese lacquer) tree is mixed with paddy-husk ash to form a light. 70% of export furniture produced in Thailand is made from parawood. Rarely does a crackdown by the police last and often the vendors develop more surreptitious means of distribution. The piece is then engraved and painted and polished to remove the paint from everywhere except in the engravings. the whole object is made from bamboo. Sri Lanka and other countries to be cut. From start to finish it can take five or six months to produce a high-quality piece of lacquerware. Bangkok and Ko Samui lead the country with design-minded fashions. After several days it is sanded down with ash from rice husks. Gems & Jewellery Thailand is the world’s largest exporter of gems and ornaments. Although rough-stone sources in Thailand have decreased dramatically. flexible. Chiang Mai is known for goldon-black lacquerware. they often use inferior fabric and have poor workmanship. Chiang Mai is the country’s primary furniture producer with many retail outlets in Bangkok. polished and traded. For chic clothes.lonelyplanet. Lacquerware Northern Thailand has long produced regionally distinctive lacquerware thanks to the influence of ancient artisans originally from Burma. at least not the vendors. so be sure everything fits before you leave the store. D I R E C T O R Y • • S h o p p i n g 751 . a processed wood from rubber trees that can no longer be used for latex production. Multicoloured lacquerware is produced by repeated applications. Be wary of the quickie 24-hour tailor shops. You’re more likely to get a good fit from a custom-made piece by a tailor. you pay for it and they go around the corner to fetch it. further highlighting the contraband character of the goods. They usually come back but you’ll wait long enough to wonder. Although there are a lot of gem and jewellery stores in Thailand. Flexibility is one characteristic of good lacquerware: a well-made bowl can have its rim squeezed together until the sides meet without suffering damage. Due to the ban on teak harvesting and the subsequent exhaustion of recycled teak. stones are now imported from Myanmar. It’s best to ask Thai or long-time foreign residents for a recommendation and then go for two or three fittings. Furniture Rattan and hardwood furniture items are often good purchases and can be made to order. But this industry is filled with cut-rate operators and commission-paying scams. In the Patpong market. Markets sell cheap everyday items and are handy for picking up something when everything else is dirty.com Fakes In Bangkok. If the item is top quality. See p745 for a detailed warning on gem fraud. Finding shoes that fit larger feet is also a problem. Thailand has a long sartorial tradition. only the frame is bamboo and horse or donkey hairs will be wound round it. The lacquer is then coated over the framework and allowed to dry. waterproof coating. and another coating of lacquer is applied. Chiang Mai and other tourist centres there’s a thriving black-market street trade in fake designer goods. Textiles Each region in Thailand has its own distinctive silk-weaving tradition and colour palette that can often be divided even further into village characteristics. com) offering promotional rates as low as 1B per minute. while CAT and TOT compete for international service. In the north. Surin Province is renowned for its mát·mèe silk often showcasing colours and geometric patterns inherited from Khmer traditions. silks reflect the influence of the Lanna weaving traditions. You must also dial an international exchange prefix (for Australia it is %0011. For domestic service.cthai . The standard direct-dial prefix is %001. Each hill tribe has a tradition of embroidery that has been translated into the modern marketplace as bags and jewellery. Dial %100 for operator-assisted international calls.deedial. The cheapest service they offer is the ‘ring-back’ feature. so all phone numbers in the country use eight digits (preceded by a ‘0’ if you’re dialling domestically). TELEPHONE The telephone system in Thailand has been deregulated and the once state-owned entities have been privatised. Thailand has introduced an ‘8’ prefix to all mobile numbers. The telephone country code for Thailand is %66 and is used when calling the country from abroad. Many expats are now using DeeDial (www . Much of what you’ll find in the marketplaces have been machine made but there are many NGO cooperatives that help villagers get their handmade goods to the consumers. there are varying international access codes charging different rates per minute. a prefix operated by TOT with reliable quality and slightly cheaper rates. it is operated by CAT and is considered to have the best sound quality. which circumvents local charges on your phone. International Calls If you want to call an international number from a telephone in Thailand. it connects to the largest number of countries but is the most expensive. from the iridescent. a toll-free call. Fairly nice Ъah đé (batik) is available in the south in patterns that are more similar to the batik found in Malaysia than in Indonesia. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are filled with handicraft outlets. Today village weaving traditions continue but have become less geographically specific. with varying but adequate sound quality. Calling overseas through phones in most hotel rooms usually incurs additional sur- . similar to Indonesia’s ikat fabrics. The next best is %007. you must first dial an international access code before dialling the country code followed by the subscriber number. brought to Chiang Mai and the surrounding mountains by the various Tai tribes. In Thailand. both of which use Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP). available at some post offices and CAT centres throughout the country. Thailand no longer uses separate area codes for the provinces. for the UK %00 and for the US %001) before the country code. single-colour smooth silk to the naturally dyed raw silk with its knubby texture.com accommodate the growth in mobile (cell) phone usage. use this prefix. There are also a variety of international phonecards available through CAT (www.DIRECTORY 752 D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e might have functioned much like business cards do today – demarcating tribal identity and sometimes even married status. TOT and its subsidiary TT&T are the primary service providers. Economy rates are available with %008 and %009. a direct-dial service that requires a prepaid account managed through the internet. ie % 01 234 5678 is now %081 234 5678. This service offers an easy one-button connection to international operators in countries around the world. If you’re calling a mobile phone from overseas you would omit the initial ‘0’ for both mobile and landline numbers. The telecommunications sector is dominated by the now private TOT Public Company Limited (formerly Telephone Organisation of Thailand or TOT) and CAT Telecom Public Company Limited (formerly Communications Authority of Thailand or CAT). or try %001 9991 2001 from a CAT phone and %1 800 000 120 from a TOT phone. To make a reverse-charges (or collect) call. Woven silk pieces still retain their regional characteristics. Alternatively contact your long-distance carrier for their overseas operator number. Phones If you don’t have access to a private landline you can use a somewhat old-fashioned way to call overseas through a service called Home Country Direct. The northeast is famous for mát·mèe cloth – a thick cotton or silk fabric woven from tiedyed threads. Silk shops throughout the country sell a variety of styles. To lonelyplanet.com). 75 Pitt St.com. Fukuoka. Taipei. Once your phone is SIM-enabled you can buy minutes with prepaid phonecards. accommodation and transport. Menara Citibank. Level 22.de. The yellow phones (labelled either domestic or international) take the respective Lenso phonecards. 75008 Paris) Germany (%069 138 1390. 370 Orchard Rd. These phonecards can be bought from 7-Elevens in 300B and 500B denominations and rates vary between 7B and 10B per call. Ste 22. TIME Thailand’s time zone is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC (London).my.org). however sometimes local calls are free or at standard rates. making it the cheapest ‘talk’ option for baht-strapped mobile users. so that AD 2009 is BE 2552. Sydney.01.com. tatpar@wanadoo. www. TAT’s head office is in Bangkok and there are 22 regional offices spread throughout the country.thailand. Seoul. Most mobile users in Thailand use the prepaid services of a particular carrier (AIS and DTAC are the most popular). 238870) DIRECTORY charges (sometimes as much as 50% over and above the CAT rate). 90 Ave des Champs Elysées. SIM cards and refill cards can be bought from 7-Elevens throughout the country.tourismthailand. These sit more-or-less flush with the surface of the floor.thailandtourismus.net. To get started buy a SIM card. or you can use an imported phone that isn’t SIM-locked. it typically costs 5B to initiate a call. www. Australia (%02 9247 7549. Check the destination chapters for the TAT office in the towns you’re planning to visit. 50450 Kuala Lumpur) Singapore (%65 6235 7901. For travellers who have never used a squat toilet. Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT. Then there are the phonecard phone booths that accept only certain kinds of cards. Tokyo.com Mobile Phones Thailand is on a GSM network. Even in places where sit-down toilets are installed. c/o Royal Thai Embassy. In such cases the usual washing bucket will be standing nearby or there will be a waste basket where you’re supposed to place used toilet paper. it takes a bit of getting used to. 165 Jalan Ampang. the ‘squat toilet’ is the norm except in hotels and guesthouses geared towards tourists and international business travellers. DTAC and True Move (formerly Orange). Toilet users scoop water from an adjacent bucket or tank with a plastic bowl and use it to clean their nether regions while still squatting over the toilet. You have two hand-phone options: you can either buy a mobile phone in Thailand at one of the shopping malls. There are also a variety of public payphones that use prepaid phonecards for calls (both international and domestic) and coin-operated pay phones for local calls. See also the World Time Zone map at the end of this book. A few extra scoops of water must be poured into the toilet basin to flush waste into the septic system. AD 2010 is BE 2553 etc. NSW 2000) France (%01 53 53 47 00. At government offices and local cinemas. check TAT’s website for contact information in Hong Kong. The red and blue public phones are for local calls and are coin-operated. tatsin@singnet. the beginning of the Buddhist Era.thaitourism. the septic system may not be designed to take toilet paper. Osaka. Mobile (cellular) phone operators in Thailand include AIS. There are various promotions but rates typically hover around 2B to 3B per minute anywhere in Thailand and between 5B and 7B for international calls. The green phones take domestic TOT phonecards. was founded in 1960 and produces excellent pamphlets on sightseeing. The official year in Thailand is reckoned from 543 BC. Level 20. TOURIST INFORMATION The government-operated tourist information and promotion service. with two footpads on either side. SMS is usually 5B per message. D-60311 Frankfurt/Main) Malaysia (%603 216 23480. www. Bethmannstrasse 58. D I R E C T O R Y • • Ti m e 753 .fr. Some guesthouses will have a mobile phone or landline that customers can use for a per-minute fee for overseas calls. Stockholm and Rome. eg 11pm is written ‘2300’. TOILETS As in many other Asian countries. www.au. The following are a few of TAT’s overseas information offices. like Bangkok’s MBK. times are often expressed according to the 24-hour clock.lonelyplanet.sg. which includes an assigned telephone number. Using the public phones can be a bit of a pain: they are typically placed beside a main thoroughfare where you’re cooked by the sun and the conversation is drowned out by traffic noise. tatla@ix. 347 Fifth Ave. A number of more expensive top-end hotels make consistent design efforts to provide disabled access to their properties. Accessible Journeys (%610 521 0339. Alternatively you can extend your visa in Thailand (see Visa Extensions & Renewals below). 132 E Broadway. Thaivisa (www.worldwidediveandsail. Worldwide Dive & Sail (www. Other deluxe hotels with high employee-to-guest ratios are usually good about accommodating the mobility impaired by providing staff help where building design fails. to enter the country without a prearranged visa. Visa Extensions & Renewals You can apply at any immigration office in Thailand for visa extensions. In the past five years there have been some shifting rules on visas and visa extensions. tatny@tat. 611 North Larchmont Blvd. USA) Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (%212 447 7284.org. Obtaining a tourist visa is a good idea for overland travellers who need more time in Thailand than the land-arrival visa allows.com. www . you should apply for the 60-day tourist visa from a Thai consulate or embassy before your trip.th) oversees immigration and visas issues.DIRECTORY 754 D I R E C T O R Y • • T r a v e l l e r s W i t h D i s a b i l i t i e s UK (%020 7925 2511. For those arriving in the kingdom by air.30pm Mon-Fri.mfa. Most foreigners use the Bangkok immigration office (Map p124. Suite 605. New Zealand. the lonelyplanet. h9am-noon & 1-4. Eugene. The usual fee for a visa extension is 1900B. including those from Australia. retirement and extended family visits. Th Sathon Tai. Tourist Visas & Exemptions The Thai government allows tourist-visa exemptions for 41 different nationalities. Los Angeles. OR 97401.com) stays abreast of any changes and developments. 3rd fl. the arrival visa has been shortened to 15 days (no fee is charged).tourismthailand. but it will be cheaper and you’ll get more time if you arrange for a tourist visa before your arrival.30pm Mon-Fri) for extensions of most types of visa. If you plan to apply for a Thai work permit. Contact the nearest Thai embassy or consulate to obtain application procedures and fees for tourist visas.30am-4.com) offers liveaboard diving programs for the deaf and hard of hearing. 61 Broadway. Soi Suan Phlu. Many streets must be crossed via pedestrian bridges flanked with steep stairways. Check the website or the nearest Thai embassy or consulate for application procedures and costs. The exception to this rule is for Malaysian nationals who will still receive a 30-day visa if arriving via a land border. With its high curbs. For those arriving via a land border.go. Bangkok can be particularly difficult. USA) Mobility International USA (%541 343 1284.com USA and most of Europe. you’re more likely to be granted multiple entries if you apply at a Thai consulate in Europe. Los Angeles (%323 461 9814. Brook House. you’ll need to possess a Non-Immigrant Visa first. New York. PA 19078.netcom. USA) VISAS The Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www. Th Mahidon. www. For the rest. %0 5320 1755-6.uk. ongoing obstacle course for the mobility impaired. you’re pretty much left to your own resources. Do note that in 2008.th. CA 90004) TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES Thailand presents one large. NY 10016. London SW1Y 6EE) USA New York (%212 432 0433. www. the length of stay for citizens from exempted countries was slightly altered from years past.co. Rarely are there any ramps or other access points for wheelchairs. Some organisations and publications that offer tips on international travel include the following. 98-99 Jermyn St. h8.or. a 30-day visa is issued without a fee. Suite 343. Counter to the prevailing trends. 35 West Sellers Ave. the US or Australia than elsewhere. Ste 2810. Those issued with a standard stay of 15 or 30 days can extend their stay for seven . New York. while buses and boats don’t stop long enough even for the fully abled. 1st fl. www. Without proof of an onward ticket and sufficient funds for one’s projected stay any visitor can be denied entry. Non-Immigrant Visas The Non-Immigrant Visa is good for 90 days and is intended for foreigners entering the country for business. uneven footpaths and nonstop traffic. If you plan to stay in Thailand longer than 30 days (or 15 days for land arrivals).miusa.thaivisa.org. study. 9am-noon Sat) or the Chiang Mai immigration office (Map pp276-7.sath.com. NY 10006). Ridley Park.disability travel. but in practise your ticket and funds are rarely checked if you’re dressed neatly for the immigration check. %0 2287 3101. There are multipleentry visas available in this visa class. For all types of visa extensions. As of 2008. Fines can be paid at the airport or in advance at an immigration office. in some cases where alcohol is involved. Women should not encourage frivolous flirting as some Thai men might feel a loss of face if attention is then diverted to another person and.com fice closest to their in-country address. Thailand has been tweaking the border visa rules in an attempt to crackdown on foreigners who work or live in the country illegally (ie without the proper documentation). rather than hiring a third party. While Bangkok might be a men’s paradise to some. you should consider securing a tourist visa from a Thai embassy or consulate in whichever country you’ll be visiting prior to your arrival in the kingdom. foreign women are finding their own Romeos on the Thai beaches. but this seems to have been lifted with the new 15-day land visas. In the provincial towns. and female travellers generally face few problems. passport holders from visa-exempt countries could only obtain a 15-day visa upon arrival at a land border. Outside of Bangkok. If you return home from a bar alone. more Thai men will make themselves available. Avoid accepting rides from strangers late at night or travelling around in isolated areas by yourself – common sense stuff that might escape your notice in a new environment filled with hospitable people. If you’re arriving in Thailand via a land border and would like to stay longer than 15 days. the usual penalty is a fine of 500B per day. Since 2006. The regular Full Moon party at Ko Pha-Ngan is a common trouble spot. Foreign residents in Thailand should arrange visa extensions at the immigration of- D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s 755 .000B limit. As more couples emerge. DIRECTORY to 10 days (depending on the immigration office) if the extension is handled before the visa expires. With the great amount of respect afforded to women.lonelyplanet. Remember to dress neatly and do all visa extensions yourself. most Thai women cover up in the sun to avoid unnecessary exposure since lighter skin is considered more beautiful. an equal measure should be returned. you don’t have to pay. Another visa renewal option is to cross a land border. this is a recent procedural change so check with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for more details. violence can ensue. be sure to have your wits about you. Attacks and rapes are not common in Thailand. WOMEN TRAVELLERS Women make up nearly half of all foreign visitors to Thailand. a much higher ratio than the worldwide average. There was a short-lived limit placed on the number of times immigration would grant a stay to visitors crossing the land borders. Children under 14 travelling with a parent do not have to pay the penalty. it is advisable to dress conservatively. Women who aren’t interested in such romantic encounters should not presume that Thai men have merely platonic motives. If you’ve overstayed only one day. but incidents do occur. especially when an attacker observes a vulnerable target: a drunk or solo woman. belly buttons and thighs. If you overstay your visa. The 30-day visa is still available if you arrive by air and many expats have been booking flights to nearby Kuala Lumpur for their ‘visa runs’. bring along two passport-sized photos and one copy each of the photo and visa pages of your passport. The 60-day tourist visa can be extended by up to 30 days at the discretion of Thai immigration authorities. That Westerners believe the opposite is an endless source of amusement and confusion. with a 20. covering shoulders. you can get the proper form from Thai customs officials at your point of entry. Kuala Lumpur. Ko Samui (with services to Singapore and Hong Kong) and Hat Yai (with services to Kuala Lumpur). The following airlines fly to and from Thailand. if arriving by land. While most international flights arrive at and depart out of Bangkok. is now used for some domestic flights by Thailand’s national carrier. Luang Prabang and Vientiane). and you’ll need to present completed arrival and departure cards. Don Muang Airport (p181) in Bangkok. AIR Airports The Suvarnabhumi Airport ( p181 . sù·wan·ná·poom) opened in September 2006 and has replaced the airport at Don Muang for all international flights and some domestic flights. can be picked up at the immigration counter.lonelyplanet. Do note however. Moderately up-todate information about these airports is available online at www. Suvarnabhumi International Airport) DEPARTURE TAX For international departures from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport. Flights to certain Asian destinations operate from here without a layover in Bangkok. You do not have to fill in a customs form on arrival unless you have imported goods to declare.756 Transport TRANSPORT CONTENTS Getting There & Away Entering The Country Air Boat Land Border Crossings Getting Around Air Bicycle Boat Bus Car & Motorcycle Hitching Local Transport Tours Train 756 756 756 759 760 761 762 762 762 764 764 766 767 767 768 768 GETTING THERE & AWAY ENTERING THE COUNTRY Entry procedures for Thailand. by air or by land. always check which Bangkok airport you will be using. there is no longer a separate departure tax. It is located in the Nong Ngu Hao area of Samut Prakan – 30km east of Bangkok and 60km from Pattaya. there are a few routes using Thailand’s other ‘international’ airports.airportthai. because of the Thai government’s loose restrictions on airfares. In that case. and close competition between airlines and travel agencies. Singapore. Other airports with limited connections to Asian capitals can be found in Chiang Mai (with services to Taipei.com. . See p749 for Thai customs information about minimum funds requirements. Blank arrival and departure cards are usually distributed on the incoming flight or. as well as by Nok Air and One-Two-Go. Udon Thani (with services to Luang Prabang).com/travel _services. Flights. The airport code for Suvarnabhumi is BKK. The old international airport.co. The airport code is DMK. www. When booking connecting flights.th. that international flights out of Ko Samui do still incur a departure tax (300B). Air Asia (%0 2515 9999. The country’s second-busiest airport for passenger service is Phuket International Airport (p678). are straightforward: you’ll have to show your passport (see p754 for information about visa requirements). tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www. Airlines Travelling to/from Thailand Bangkok is one of the cheapest cities in the world to fly into and out of.airasia. Thai Airways International (THAI). %0 2264 2484. %0 2263 0225. Lumphini Tower. %0 2267 5125. %0 2261 5060.com.mas. 54 Soi 21/Asoke.com. %0 2635 1191. 11th fl.garuda-indonesia. Th Silom) American Airlines (Map pp120-1. 138/70 Th Naret) Philippine Airlines (Map pp110-11. 491/17 Th Silom) Lufthansa Airlines (Map pp122-3. Tour East.lufthansa.com. %0 2235 8280. River Wing West.au. 1st fl.lonelyplanet. 942/160-163 Th Phra Ram IV) TRANSPORT Carbon Offset Schemes .com. %0 2635 0465.laoairlines. 1st fl. %0 2229 4260. 898 Th Ploenchit) China Airlines (Map pp120-1. Kongboonma Bldg. Peninsula Plaza.nwa. reservations 0 2264 2400. as a global benefit. %0 2263 0565. %0 2254 7931-4.com.com.evaair . Ploenchit Tower.fr. 3354/47 Th Phra Ram IV) Qantas Airways (Map pp118-19. %0 2627 1701.aa. overall. Suvarnabhumi International Airport) KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (Map pp118-19.com.com.com.airnewzealand. 153 Th Ratchadamri) Orient Thai (Map pp118-19.gulf airco. www .com. 195 Th Sathon Tai) Air China (Map pp118-19. 11th fl. For more information check out our website: lonelyplanet. Suvarnabhumi International Airport) British Airways (Map pp118-19. www . Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel.com.jetstar. www . Peninsula Plaza. www. 17th fl. 140/17 ITF Tower. www.china-airlines.com.com. 20th fl. %0 2635 2300. %0 2664 1040. Th Sukhumvit) Eva Air (Map pp110-11.cathaypacific. Honduras. 54 Soi 21/Asoke. Nantawan Bldg. Silom Plaza. www.maiair.com. www. but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. 175-177 Th Surawong) Air France (Map pp118-19. Jewellery Centre Bldg. Vorawat Bldg. Bangkok Union Insurance Bldg.com.com. 898 Th Ploenchit) Myanmar Airways International (Map pp122-3. %0 2660 6999. Kazakhstan and Uganda. Q House. www . %0 2269 6288. %0 2679 7371. 849 Th Silom) Korean Air (Map pp118-19. 699 Th Silom) Lao Airlines (Map pp118-19. www .my.koreanair. %0 2250 9898. www. BB Bldg. %0 2670 0400. not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel. 161 Th Ratchadamri) Jetstar Airways (Map p189.britishairways. but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming. 2nd fl. Maneeya Center.aircanada. 1168/77 Th Phra Ram IV) Gulf Air (Map pp120-1. Th Sukhumvit) Malaysia Airlines (Map pp120-1. 10th fl.com.fly-airchina. 4th fl.airfrance. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity consumption over a whole year. www.org.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 757 CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon. BB Bldg.klm.co. Lonely Planet regards travel. Charn Issara Tower. Climatecare.com. and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Ste 1708. Flying & Climate Change Pretty much every form of motor travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders. www.bangkokair.com. 21st fl. together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry. Lonely Planet.com. www.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow jetsetters to offset the greenhouse gases they are responsible for with contributions to energy-saving projects and other climate-friendly initiatives in the developing world – including projects in India. 2nd fl. www . www . 3656/4-5 Th Phra Ram IV) Garuda Indonesia (Map p124. Th Sukhumvit) Northwest Airlines (Map pp120-1.com. Manorom Bldg. www. 4th fl. www. Empire Tower. 18th fl. 518/5 Th Ploenchit) Japan Airlines (Map pp120-1. Charn Issara Tower. %0 2633 5713. %0 2236 2800.emirates . %0 2236 9822. 11th fl Ploenchit Tower. 942/160-163 Th Phra Ram IV) Cathay Pacific Airways (Map pp120-1. 27th fl. 898 Th Ploenchit) Bangkok Airways (%1771. 8th fl.com. 20th fl. 1st fl. www . Soi 21/Asoke. 849 Th Silom) Air New Zealand (Map pp118-19. %0 2263 0606. www . supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare. 21st fl. Green Tower. Air Canada (Map pp118-19. www. 153 Th Ratchadamri) Emirates (Map pp122-3.orient-thai.%0 2649 9520.jal.com. %0 2634 8991. www. www . www. Ploenchit Tower. Vorawat Bldg. www. 20th fl.jp.qantas. com) is Canada’s national student travel agency.flysaa. which has offices in dozens of Indian cities.com) Avia Travel (www.com. Malaysia Airlines. Jetstar. Th Surawong) United Airlines (Map pp118-19.com). %0 2216 56915.TRANSPORT 758 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r Royal Brunei Airlines (Map p124.au) Canada Air Canada. Hong Kong.com. quick hops from. %0 2645 8200.singaporeair.com). 9th fl Phayathai Plaza Bldg. Cathay Pacific Airways and Emirates Airlines also have frequent flights to Bangkok from Australia. because most card issuers provide refunds if you can prove you didn’t get what you paid for. try STIC Travels (www.com) Banglamphu (Map pp114-15.net. 1st fl. Booking flights in and out of Bangkok during the high season (from December to March) can be difficult and expensive. 849 Th Silom) Thai Airways International (www. After you’ve made a booking or paid your deposit.airtreks. Online ticket sites include the following. Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur. 55 Th Withayu) Tickets Tickets can be purchased cheaply on the internet through booking and airline websites. Philippine Airlines. Paying by credit card generally offers protection.bruneiair. which has offices in Bangkok. Vorawat Bldg. www.com. say. In India.airbrokers. Garuda Indonesia. 12th fl. www.com. in Hong Kong try Four Seas Tours (www. call the airline and confirm that the booking was made.statravel. Th Sukhumvit) Singapore Airlines (Map pp118-19. Silom (Map pp118-19. Wave Place Bldg.com) Asia There are regular flights to Suvarnabhumi International Airport from almost every major city in Asia. 128 Th Phayathai) Scandinavian Airlines (Map pp122-3. TMB Bank Silom Bldg. Glas Haus Bldg.stictravel. %0 2637 5151. 393 Th Silom) Vietnam Airlines (Map pp120-1. Recommended booking agencies for reserving flights from Asia include STA Travel (www. China Airlines.flightcentre.royalnepal-airlines. U Chu Liang Bldg. Singapore or Hong Kong are now commonly used in Asia for a weekend getaway. Japan Airlines. Here are a few online companies that can arrange RTW tickets. lonelyplanet. Cathay Pacific. be sure to reconfirm return or ongoing tickets when you arrive in Thailand.thaiair. which often list fare sales or special internet prices.com). 6 Th Lan Luang).fourseastravel. 10th fl.com. www.com. What varies most is the amount of commission an agent will charge. 968 Th Phra Ram IV) Royal Nepal Airlines (Map pp112-13. www. 20th fl. Singapore Airlines. Airtreks (www.vietnamair. 6th fl.com.expedia. With the emergence of budget airlines. Singapore Airlines and several US-based airlines fly from various Canadian cities to Bangkok.com) Air Brokers International (www. %0 2353 6000.au) Flight Centre (%133 133.no1-travel. Travel Cuts (%866 246 9762. www. most travel arrangements are made through an agent. THAI. Qantas’ low-budget subsidiary.ual. Silom Center Bldg. www. 8th fl. shop around to gauge the discrepancy in prices. %0 2356 1111.com ROUND-THE-WORLD (RTW) TICKETS A round-the-world (RTW) ticket – where you pay a single discounted price for several connections – may be the most economical way to go. but there are some rogue fly-by-night outfits around. %0 2353 3900.com) is an independent travel agency located in Vancouver. Another resource in Japan is No1 Travel (www . 17th fl.travelcuts. For air travel during these months you should make your bookings as far in advance as you possibly can. %0 2232 8000.northsouth travel. . Most firms are honest and solvent. Bangkok Union Insurance Bldg. Australia THAI and Qantas both have direct flights to Bangkok. 2 Th Silom) South African Airways (Map pp118-19.com). Failure to reconfirm can mean losing your reservation. www. North South Travel (www.scandinavian.com. travels to Thailand from Sydney and Melbourne. In Thailand.au) STA Travel (%134 782. Air Asia and Dragon are two discount carriers that run frequent promotions. www . www.com. Japan and Singapore. %0 2635 1410. 175-177 Soi Anuman Rajchathon. Agents who accept only cash should hand over the tickets straight away and not tell you to ‘come back tomorrow’. www.vn. www.aviatravel.statravel. %0 2655 4137-40. Expedia (%1 300 397 3342.com) Around the Worlds (www.aroundtheworlds. Also. com) In Argentina. UK At least two dozen airlines fly between London and Bangkok.com) Lowest Fare (%800 678 0998.nz) have branches throughout the country. www.statravel.com) Travelocity (%888 872 8336. EVA Airways. www.trailfinders. Reliable discounters include the following.barceloviajes .uk) Travel Bag (%0800 804 8911.uk) Trailfinders (%0845 058 5858.smarterliving .ebookers.sta.com) Germany Italy CTS Viaggi (%06 462 0431. Recommended travel agencies include the following. www.com) is a long-running agency located in Cairo.com) STA Travel (%800 781 4040.co. www. Cheap Tickets (%888 922 8849.travelbag.com) Expedia (www.questtravel. appear in Time Out. up-to-date research. with stopovers. www .goholidays.lonelyplanet.nz) and STA Travel (%0800 474 400. Both Flight Centre (%0800 243 544. EVA Airways (Taiwan) offers the ‘Evergreen Deluxe’ class between the US and Bangkok.fr) Voyageurs du Monde (www. Shop carefully.nouvelles-frontieres. www. www.expedia. www. although only three of them – British Airways.asatej. www.lastminute.cts. The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. www. Go Holidays (www.it) Specialises in student and youth travel.expedia.co.co.nl) Spain Barcelo Viajes (%902 116 226.com) Expedia (%800 397 3342. www.com) BOAT You can cross into and out of Thailand via public boat from the west coast of Malaysia.travelocity. www.de) Lastminute (%0 1805 284 366. Discount air-travel ads THINGS CHANGE. www.uk) STA Travel (%0871 230 0040. Qantas and Garuda Indonesia also have flights to Bangkok.com .uk) Flight Centre (%0870 499 0040. www.nz) is recommended for online bookings. the Evening Standard and in the free magazine TNT. www.com) Middle East Egypt Panorama Tours (%2359 0200. www.airfair.de) G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • B o a t 759 .statravel. France Anyway (%0 892 302 301.fr) Lastminute (%0 466 923 029. www .fr) Nouvelles Frontières (%0 149 206 587. www. ASATEJ (www.anyway. Korean Air and Northwest. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful.flight centre.co.justtravel.br) In Brazil.de) STA Travel (%0 6974 303 292. The airlines that generally offer the lowest fares from the US include China Airlines. Malaysia Airlines. Netherlands Airfair (%0 900 7717 717.co.stb..lastminute.com) Smarter Living (%617 886 5555.eptours. THAI and Australian-based airlines have direct flights to Bangkok.com) discusses stopover ideas and nonstop travel between London and Bangkok. which has business class–sized seats and personal movie screens for about the same cost as regular economy fares on most other airlines. EVA Airways and THAI – fly nonstop. South America Some recommended agencies include the following. Check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works and be aware of the security requirements for international travel. www.vdm. www.co. British Airways.com Continental Europe Following are some recommended agencies across Europe.cheaptickets . www. Student Travel Bureau (%3038 1555. flightcentre.uk) Quest Travel (%0845 263 6963. via Taipei.com) Orbitz (%888 656 4546. Low Cost Lux (www . www. Ebookers (%0871 223 5000. www.. New Zealand Air New Zealand. For visa-run purposes you can do a one-day TRANSPORT Just Travel (%089 747 3330.lowcostlux. www.orbitz. www.co.statravel.lowestfare.co.com) US It’s cheaper to fly to Bangkok from West Coast cities than from the East Coast. talesofasia. Do note however. most leisure-boating visitors check in at Phuket. Ko Samui. Cambodia or Laos a ‘self-guarantee’ filled in at the border is sufficient. All foreign-registered private vessels. LAND Thailand shares land borders with Laos. and these routes can be travelled by bus. most visitors cross from Poipet (Cambodia) to Aranya Prathet (Thailand. Thailand will soon have a new international rail link with Laos. Cambodia and Myanmar. It’s advisable to bring a well-stocked repair kit. There are several border crossings for which you can take a train to the border and then switch to automobile transport on the other side. though little has materialised. BORDER CROSSINGS Cambodia Between Cambodia and Thailand. No special permits are needed for bringing a bicycle into the country. . this means a letter of bank credit. Private passenger vehicles (eg cars. shared taxi and private car. Travel between all of these countries can be done by land via sanctioned border crossings. Although major ports throughout Thailand offer port checkins. it is also becoming easier to travel from Thailand to China. Malaysia. you’ll have to pay a customs duty. customs and the harbourmaster. Car & Motorcycle Road connections exist between all of Thailand’s neighbours.TRANSPORT 760 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d crossing from the Andaman coast town of Ranong to Myanmar’s Victoria Point (also known as Kawthoung). Krabi. vehicle registration papers (or in the case of a borrowed or hired vehicle. Bicycle Many visitors bring their own touring bicycles to Thailand. See right for specific border crossing immigration points and transport summaries. See p762 for more information about travelling by bike. For entry lonelyplanet. In other cases. Other rail services that travel across international borders can be found on the western part of the Malay peninsula between Thailand and Malaysia. Bus. pass through immigration and then pick up another bus or shared taxi on the other side. Before departing from Thailand by boat. There is talk of restoring the train line on the Cambodian side all the way to Sisophon. Pranburi or Pattaya. although it may be registered by customs – which means if you don’t leave the country with your bicycle. provided that you have a valid International Driving Permit. Cambodian visas can be arranged upon arrival at the Cambodian immigration office. that there are many transport and visa scams on the Poipet side of the border. for overland crossings via Malaysia. especially when crossing the Malaysian border. the bus will stop for immigration formalities and then continue to its destination across the border. authorisation from the owner) and a cash or bank guarantee equal to the value of the vehicle plus 20%. p272).com) monitors this Cambodian border crossing. Train If everything goes according to plan. With improved highways. you’ll take a bus to the border point. trucks or motorcycles) can be brought into Thailand for tourist purposes for up to six months. a passport. The two countries’ state railways meet at Butterworth (93km south of the Thai–Malaysian border). read up on some of the common problems online before setting off. but because of ongoing violence in Thailand’s deep south we don’t recommend this route for travellers. skippers and crew must check in with the relevant Thai authorities as soon as possible after entering Thai waters. the extended 3. The Thai–Cambodian border is accessible by train from Bangkok to the border town of Aranya Prathet. vans. Another rail line travels to the Malaysian east coast border town of Sungai Kolok. which is just north of Vientiane. you must also check out with immigration. The rail line offers very little advantage for passenger service as surface roads are faster and easier ways to cross the border. but it may help expedite cargo transport.com through Khlong Toey Port or Suvarnabhumi International Airport. which is a transfer point to Penang (by boat) or to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore (by Malaysian train). Tales of Asia (www.5km rail line will go from the Nong Khai station in Thailand across the Thai-Lao Friendship bridge to Ban Tanalaeng. This is the most direct land route between Bangkok and Angkor Wat. In some cases. Slated for completion in April 2009. see p257. The only land crossing open to foreigners is from Chong Mek into the Laos town of Vangtao. The once rough tracks. Lao visas are available upon arrival at Huay Xai and Tha Khaek. See p369 for more information. Following a former opium smuggling trail. Expats who live in the area have used this as a hassle-free visa run. Thailand. You can also take a slow boat along the Mekong River from the northern Thai town of Chian Saen to Jinghong in China’s Yunnan Province. the border is best accessed via bus from Ubon Ratchathani.com China Land and rail links between China and member countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). opened in 2006 and provides a fundamental trilateral link between Thailand. Ban Phakkat is an exception because minibuses connect this border crossing to Chanthaburi. The border crossing is currently undertaken by hired or public transport across the bridge. but this border has been closed since 2005. Several more remote crossings exist between southeastern Thailand and southwestern Cambodia. but it will offer little advantage to travellers heading to Vientiane and would require a Lao visa in advance. The China–Thailand highway (also called Rte 3) officially opened in mid-2008. For more information about this crossing. and only private or chartered transport is available. see p515. See p489 for more information.lonelyplanet. Lao visas can be obtained on arrival. The ambitious China–Myanmar highway plans to reopen stretches of the old Stillwell Rd (an invasion route built during WWII by Allied forces). Private or hired transport is required to access most of these crossings. but not at Pakson. Malaysia The train line heading into Malaysia from Bangkok splits at Hat Yai. which would eventually link China’s Yunnan province to India’s Assam state through the Pangsaw Pass. See p540 for more information. with only a slight interruption by the Mekong River at the Thai–Lao border (at Chiang Khong–Huay Xai). The river crossing is now done by boat. Ban Phakkat–Pailin and Ban Laem–Deun Lem. It was once also possible to travel overland from the Thai town of Mae Sai through Myanmar and across the border near Mong La to the Chinese town of Daluo. One spur heads west through Padang Besar to Butterworth. Lao visas are available upon arrival. Ban Laem–Daun Lem. while for the bridge crossing. making it an underutilised crossing point to Battambang. This crossing is done by bus. Myanmar and Vietnam. A planned rail link along this route is expected to open in mid-2009. It’s legal for non-Thais to cross the Mekong River by ferry between Thailand and Laos at the following points: Chiang Khong (opposite Huay Xai). including O Smach–Chong Chom. G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • B o r d e r C r o s s i n g s 761 . Laos The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (1174m) spans a section of the Mekong River between Nong Khai. see p374. A Lao visa is available on arrival. Laos. and many Bangkok-based expats use this route for visa runs. Nakhon Phanom (opposite Tha Khaek) and Beung Kan (opposite Pakson). and is the main transport gateway between the two countries. but a planned Mekong River bridge is due to be completed in 2011. Although portions of road are now functional. Another crossing is via little-visited Loei Province. A second Mekong bridge. On the Thai side. between Mukdahan and Savannakhet. which has boat access to Sihanoukville. to Bangkok. have been increasing since the turn of the millennium. Laos. Laos and Vietnam. it comprises 1800km of paved road intended to link Kunming. including Thailand. although this route is used less frequently. the project has stalled because of the diverging political and economic interests of the three countries. TRANSPORT If you’re travelling along the southeastern coast of Thailand. in China’s Yunnan Province. Cambodian visas are available upon arrival. For more information. making overland travel between Southeast Asia and the interior of southern China an easier proposition than in years past. and Tha Na Leng (near Vientiane). For more information. you can cross into Cambodia from Hat Lek to Koh Kong. We’ve heard conflicting reports about issuances of Lao visas on arrival here. a bridge links the Thai town of Thai Li to the Lao town of Nam Hoeng. Chong Sa Ngam–Anlong Veng. mainly in Laos and southern China. are now modern enough to handle passenger and freight shipping. Myanmar Most of the land crossings into Myanmar have restrictions that don’t allow full access to the country.mrpumpy. for more information. The crossing at Mae Sai–Tachileik is the only land point through which foreigners can travel into portions of Myanmar. and most roads are sealed and have roomy shoulders. Ko Samui and Phuket all have routes to other Thai towns. nonpolluting and slow moving enough to allow travellers to see everything. Most routes originate from Bangkok.TRANSPORT 762 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r which is the transfer point to Penang or other destinations along the west coast of Malaysia. Bangkok Air is another established domestic carrier. Many travellers use this border as a way to renew their Thai visas. but those mentioned here are the easiest to reach with public transport. . but Chiang Mai. including Pulau Langkawi. This border is also a busy crossing for renewing Thai visas. Buses and minibuses also cross the border into the Malaysian towns of Padang Besar and Dan Nawk (south of Thailand’s Sadao). see the boxed text. especially if they are based in or have just visited Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.thaicycling. See p728 for more details. Due to unrest in the far southern provinces of Thailand. Another spur heads east to the border town of Sungai Kolok. The Thailand Cycling Club (%08 1555 2901.com Burmese border market only and no visa extensions/renewals were issued. These border points are also subject to unannounced closures. which can last anywhere from a day to years. Biking Southeast Asia with Mr Pumpy (www. THAI operates many domestic air routes from Bangkok to provincial capitals. it is not advisable to take the train east. see the respective city sections. but you can’t travel onward from here into mainland Myanmar. bicycles are an ideal form of local transport – cheap. You can take bicycles on the train for a little less than the equivalent of one 3rd-class fare. you can legally enter Myanmar by boat from Ranong to the island of Kawthoung. See p760 for more information on bringing a bike into Thailand. Once a gateway for various invading armies and an important smuggling route. exceptions include the far north. even though the road continues to Mawlamyaing (Moulmein) via Kawkareik. see p411. tips and other details from ‘spoke folks’. On ordinary buses they’ll place your bike on the roof. See the Thai Airfares and Rail Lines map (p763) for routes and estimated costs. the border was open for day-pass trips to the lonelyplanet.com). but this is no longer an option. Grades in most parts of the country are moderate. and on air-con buses it will be put in the cargo hold. By boat you can cross to several points along the Malaysian west coast. from the mainland town of Satun or from Ko Lipe. Three Pagodas Pass (p226) has been closed to foreigners since 2006. the bridge that spans the two border towns is Lo Hsing-han’s former ‘Golden Triangle’ passageway for the opium and heroin trade. GETTING AROUND AIR Hopping around the country by air is becoming more and more affordable thanks to airline deregulation. From the border you can continue to Kengtung. stick to the western side of the peninsula. One-Two-Go. Many people use this crossing only as a day trip in order to renew their Thai visas. Prior to 2005. p636. BICYCLE For travelling just about anywhere outside Bangkok. In the southern part of Thailand. especially Mae Hong Son and Nan Provinces. www. Bicycle touring is also a popular way to see the country. for airline contact information. foreigners could continue on to China as long as they had the appropriate visas beforehand.net) contains route suggestions. Prior to its closure. For more information. as far as Mong La on the Thai–China border (see p365). There are also a few lesser-used land crossings. Nok Air and Air Asia all tend to be cheaper than the older carriers. serves as an information clearing house on biking tours and cycle clubs. Interestingly. The Mae Sot–Myawadi border crossing is open to foreigners only as a day trip into a Burmese border market. which was once a popular traveller migration point through Malaysia’s Kota Bahru and on to the Perhentian Islands. established in 1959. Note these fares are subject to change.lonelyplanet. Kantang Trang Hat Yai Padang Besar Narathiwat Kota Bharu Sungai Kolok INDIAN OCEAN MALAYSIA . Full one-way economy air fares in baht (discounts available on most flights).com T HA I A I R FA R E S & R A I L L I N E S 763 THAI AIRFARES & RAIL LINES VIETNAM MYANMAR (B U R M A) Chiang Rai Mae Pai 1690 Hong Son LAOS 1275 1350 Gulf of Tonkin Chiang Mai Lampang VIENTIANE 1470 Nong Khai 1800 TRANSPORT Udon Thani Sukhothai 2200 Phitsanulok 2870 Khon Kaen 3185 3025 2305 Roi Et 1700 3600 Ubon Ratchathani Lopburi Nakhon Ratchasima Buriram 2740 Nam Tok Ayuthaya Kanchanaburi 1400 Aranya Prathet BANGKOK 2575 Pattaya CAMBODIA Sattahip/U-Thapao 1900 1500 Trat 3550 3330 PHNOM PENH 3000 ANDAMAN SEA 1500 2107 3500 GULF OF THAILAND Ko Samui Ranong VIETNAM 2150 1800 Surat Thani 2250 Nakhon Si Thammarat Phuket Krabi Air fares and major railways in Thailand. like Bangkok’s Th Khao San. Because duties are high on imported bikes. lateness and unreliability. Bus Companies SAFETY The bus network in Thailand is prolific and reliable. courtesy of an ‘air hostess’. The Thai government subsidises the Transport Company The most reputable bus companies depart from the public. for as little as 50B per day. BUS lonelyplanet. even if it’s just a patch of dirt by the side of the road. more comfortable air-con buses. In some cases the companies are entirely state owned.th. Readers have also consistently reported having their stowed bags rifled through and valuables stolen. the standard craft is a wooden boat. A few companies even treat you to a meal before a long overnight trip. Other complaints include the alleged ‘VIP’ bus turning out to be a cramped minibus that arrives four hours late. Between the mainland and islands in the Gulf of Thailand or the Andaman Sea. By far the most reliable bus companies in Thailand are the ones that operate out of the government-run BKS stations. www. A security deposit isn’t usually required. a wheelhouse and a simple roof to shelter passengers and cargo. 8m to 10m long. . Keep all valuables on your person. Every city and town in Thailand linked by bus has a BKS station. Only a few of these ordinary buses. We do not recommend using bus companies that operate directly out of tourist centres.transport . BKS bus terminals. but it’s best to book directly through a bus office to be sure that you get what you pay for. The service on these buses is usually quite good and on certain routes sometimes includes a beverage service and video. On overnight journeys the buses usually stop somewhere en route and passengers are awakened to get off the bus for a free meal of fried rice or rice soup. the latter have toilets. One of the best shops for cycling gear in Thailand is Bangkok’s Probike (Map p124. rót Ъràp ah·gàht (air-con bus) or rót too·a (tour bus). as the air-con can turn the cabin into a deep freeze. in most cases you’ll do better to bring your own bike to Thailand rather than purchase one here.co. ‘VIP’ and ‘Super VIP’ buses have fewer seats so that each seat reclines further.764 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t Hire & Purchase Bicycles can be hired in many locations. with an inboard engine. and is a great way to see the countryside and sit among the locals. especially guesthouses. called rót aa (air bus).com hand along the highway. so-called because the propeller is mounted at the end of a long drive shaft extending from the engine. not stored in your luggage because even locked bags can be tampered with and you might not realise anything is missing until days later. See p185 for details. It is handy to bring along a jacket. 237/1 Soi Sarasin). Faster.th). Be sure to read the Dangers & Annoyances section in the relevant destination chapter to be aware of bus scams and problems. TRANSPORT BOAT The true Thai river transport is the reu·a hăhng yow (long-tail boat). more expensive hovercraft or jetfoils are sometimes available in tourist areas. Longer routes offer at least two classes of air-con buses: 2nd class and 1st class. www. Private buses and minivans that pick up customers from tourist centres such as Th Khao San in Bangkok experience a higher incidence of reported theft. Sometimes these are called rót norn (sleeper bus). Privately run buses can be booked through most hotels or any travel agency. % 0 2936 2841. %0 2253 3384. (bò·rí·sàt kŏn sòng.probike. The long-tail boats are a staple of transport on rivers and canals in Bangkok and neighbouring provinces.co. a young woman dressed in a polyester uniform. CLASSES The cheapest and slowest are the rót tam·má·dah (ordinary non air-con buses) that stop in every little town and for every waving Reservations You can book air-con BKS buses at any BKS terminal. especially for long-distance trips. Ordinary (fan) buses cannot be booked in advance. in others they are private concessions. Sometimes these tourist-oriented services pick up passengers from their guesthouse only to drop them off at the public bus terminal. in rural locations or for local destinations. because of repeated instances of theft. The bulk of the bus service is faster. still exist since most have been replaced by air-con buses. usually abbreviated to Baw Khaw Saw (BKS). com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • R o a d D i s t a n c e s 765 .--- --729 --727 707 --1066 965 1072 Surat Thani 791 1694 1593 1700 Sungai Kolok --761 286 1264 1163 1270 Phuket --1227 1657 1029 146 690 572 Phitsanulok --411 1466 1896 1268 557 883 443 Nong Khai --546 135 1092 1522 894 172 555 535 Nakhon Sawan --372 359 435 1107 1357 909 544 524 163 Nakhon Ratchasima --320 692 347 608 1427 1857 1229 754 886 157 Mukdahan --1155 982 682 958 547 1774 2204 1576 528 1237 1119 Mae Sai --474 1142 969 604 945 578 1696 2126 1498 432 1397 1106 Mae Hong Son --829 842 313 193 408 166 295 1300 1730 1102 441 717 277 Khon Kaen --633 1029 1107 760 440 425 799 560 667 1097 469 597 496 603 Hua Hin --810 1443 1839 1917 1570 1250 1235 1609 1370 474 287 401 1407 1306 1413 Hat Yai --555 269 902 1298 1376 1029 709 694 1068 829 412 842 214 866 765 872 Chumphon --- 1308 1849 1039 774 406 68 1087 914 614 890 479 1706 2136 1508 460 1169 1051 Chiang Rai --- 191 1138 1679 869 604 225 259 917 744 444 720 309 1536 1966 1338 280 999 881 Chiang Mai --- 685 775 452 993 183 440 800 746 680 257 242 516 420 862 1210 635 435 313 620 Bangkok --- 79 607 777 531 1072 262 397 767 845 524 204 163 563 298 929 1359 731 335 392 367 Ayuthaya 246 275 844 1014 727 1268 458 432 1013 1082 601 239 409 598 535 1125 1555 927 581 285 444 Aranya Prathet Ayuthaya Bangkok Chiang Mai Chiang Rai Chumphon Hat Yai Hua Hin Khon Kaen Mae Hong Son Mae Sai Mukdahan Nakhon Ratchasima Nakhon Sawan Nong Khai Phitsanulok Phuket Sungai Kolok Surat Thani Tak Trat Ubon Ratchathani --- Tak --- Trat TRANSPORT Ubon Ratchathani Aranya Prathet ROAD DISTANCES (KM) lonelyplanet. Hire & Purchase Cars. Before renting a motorcycle. For news and updates about fuel options. It is also possible to buy a new or used motorcycle and sell it before you leave the country. either 91% or 95%) and compressed natural gas. check the vehicle’s condition and ask for a helmet (which is required by law). Always verify that a vehicle is insured for liability before signing a rental contract. Insurance Thailand requires a minimum of liability insurance for all registered vehicles on the road. Remember to distribute weight as evenly as possible across the frame of the bike to improve handling. and diesel is used by trucks and some passenger cars. carry two-stroke engine oil. offroad areas ben·sin/nám·man rót yon (petrol containing benzene) is usually available at small roadside or village stands. If you have an accident while .com). stick to the smaller 100cc step-through bikes with automatic clutches. most businesses will ask that you leave your passport as a deposit. Renting a motorcycle in Thailand is relatively easy and a great way to independently tour the countryside.bkkau tos.766 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet. Thailand has introduced several alternative fuels. including gasohol (a blend of petrol and ethanol that comes in different ratios. If you’re driving a motorcycle for distances of more than 100km. but their fleets of cars tend to be older and not as well maintained. and be sure to have adequate health insurance. Check the tyre treads and general upkeep of the vehicle before committing. All fuel in Thailand is unleaded. used by taxis with bifuel capabilities. The same goes for motorcycles – especially so for bikes larger than 125cc. if riding a two-stroke machine. Longterm visitors can apply for a Thai driver’s licence through the provincial office of the Department of Land Transport (%0 2272 3814).com SAMPLE BUS FARES TO BANGKOK Destination Distance from Bangkok VIP (B) 1st class (B) 2nd class (B) Chiang Mai Kanchanaburi Krabi Hat Yai Trat 685km 130km 817km 993km 313km 695 (n/a) 1100 1075 (n/a) 596 139 700 740 260 (n/a) 112 (n/a) (n/a) 223 CAR & MOTORCYCLE TRANSPORT Bring Your Own Vehicle See p760 for information on how to bring a private vehicle into Thailand for tourist purposes. The better hire companies include comprehensive coverage for their vehicles. Driving Licence Short-term visitors who wish to drive vehicles (including motorcycles) in Thailand need an International Driving Permit. Drive sensibly to avoid damage to yourself and to the vehicle. you’d be wise to bring a box of crucial spare parts that might not be available in Thailand. For daily rentals. Local companies tend to have cheaper rates than the international chains. you should also ask to see the dated insurance documents. Contact the main office to determine the location of your assigned office (based on residence). see the website of BKK Auto (www. In more-remote. jeeps and vans can be rented in most major cities and airports from local companies as well as international chains. Many tourists are injured riding motorcycles in Thailand because they don’t know how to handle the vehicle and are unfamiliar with road rules and conditions. If you’ve never driven a motorcycle before. Fuel & Spare Parts Modern petrol (gasoline) stations are in plentiful supply all over Thailand wherever there are paved roads. Because of the global increase in petrol prices. If you’re bringing your own vehicle. Motorcycles can be rented in major towns and many smaller tourist centres from guesthouses and small mum-and-dad businesses. take an extra supply of motor oil. and other car talk. especially in northern Thailand and on the southern beaches. www. but it’s the reality. You typically pay the fare once you’ve taken a seat or when you disembark. so most passing motorists might not realise the intentions of the for- eigner standing on the side of the road with a thumb out. Maximum speed limits are 50km/h on urban roads and 80km/h to 100km/h on most highways – but on any given stretch of highway you’ll see various vehicles travelling as slowly as 30km/h and as fast as 150km/h. They sometimes operate on fixed routes. Outside of the capital. When drivers flash their lights. Known as the Skytrain and the Metro. drivers operating a sŏrng·tăa·ou intended for shared use will try to convince foreigners to ‘charter’ the vehicle by quoting a large fare before boarding.aiatha iland.co. Speed traps are common along Hwy 4 in the south and Hwy 2 in the northeast. while a right indicator means that someone’s approaching from the other direction. TRANSPORT Thais drive on the left-hand side of the road (most of the time!). you’re in for some major hassles. dogs and water buffaloes. respectively. In some of the national parks where there isn’t public transport Thais are often willing to pick up a passenger standing by the side of the road. Occasionally in tourist centres. LOCAL TRANSPORT City Bus & Sŏrng•tăa•ou Bangkok has the largest city-bus system in the country. If you need auto insurance.bki . A sŏrng·tăa·ou (literally. but they may also run a share-taxi service where they pick-up passengers going in the same general direction. the principal hazard when driving in Thailand. In village areas the vehicular traffic is lighter but you have to contend with stray chickens. Mass Transit Bangkok is the only city in Thailand to have either an above-ground or underground lightrail public transport system. túk-túk (motorised pedicabs) and motorcycles. In tourist centres. Depending on the region. which is why some drivers might stop and point to a bus stop if one is nearby. G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g 767 . This is the same gesture used to flag a taxi or bus. A flashing left indicator means it’s OK to pass. Road Rules & Hazards HITCHING Hitching is never entirely safe in any country and we don’t recommend it. instead when they want a ride they wave their hand with the palm facing the ground and the arm slightly outstretched. just about anything goes. Two of the more reliable ones are Bangkok Insurance (%0 2285 8888. Indicators are often used to warn passing drivers about oncoming traffic. a policy can be purchased inexpensively through local companies. The main rule to be aware of is that right of way goes to the bigger vehicle.com). In Bangkok traffic is chaotic. Firstly. Elsewhere. roads are poorly signposted and motorcycles and random contra flows mean you can suddenly find yourself facing a wall of cars coming the other way. Thais don’t ‘thumb it’. sŏrng·tăa·ou can be chartered individually just like a regular taxi. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk.com driving an uninsured vehicle. Sometimes these vehicles are converted pick-up trucks. This danger is often compounded by the lack of working lights. besides the general disregard for traffic laws. just like buses.lonelyplanet. both systems have helped to alleviate the capital city’s notorious traffic jams. while in other cases they are larger six-wheeled vehicles (sometimes called ‘rót hòk lór’). bicycles.th) and AIA Thailand (www. in spite of road signs and speed limits. but you’ll need to negotiate the fare beforehand. Other than that. is having to contend with so many different types of vehicles on the same road – 18-wheelers. they’re telling you not to pass. although Udon Thani and a few other provincial capitals have city buses. Horns are used to tell other vehicles that the driver plans to pass. Hitching is rarely seen these days in Thailand. In general. ‘two rows’) is a small pick-up truck with two rows of bench seats down both sides of the truck bed. hitching isn’t worth the hassle as buses are frequent and cheap. public transport is typically supplied by sŏrng·tăa·ou that run established routes. sŏrng·tăa·ou might also run a fixed route from the centre of town to outlying areas or even points within the provinces. this is not what it says in the Thai traffic law. The etiquette for riding public transport is to hail the vehicle by waving your hand palm-side downward. diethelmtravel. Intrepid Travel (www. In other cities. 757 ave du Mont-Royal Est. several specialise in adventure and/or ecological tours. QUE H2J 1W8. CA 94608.th). ie the bicycle rickshaw or pedicab. www . The nonmotorised săhm·lór.com) Volunteer and sightseeing tours. Usually they wear numbered jerseys. %1690. rather than cruising the streets looking for fares. the kamikaze drivers of Bangkok are a major exception. the fumes will. Asian Trails (Map pp120-1.com) Specialises in small-group travel geared toward young people. 5 Kendal Pl.com. Fares tend to run from 10B to 50B. Club Adventure (%514 527 0999. reliable tour wholesalers in Thailand include the following. 12th fl. Bangkok) World Travel Service (Map pp118-19. operated by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT. www . but you will find them elsewhere in the country. www . powered by horrendously noisy engines (usually LPGpowered). you’ll find motorcycle taxis clustered near street intersections.wts-thailand. 140/1 Th Withayu.exodustravels.com. USA) Award-winning agency for its environmentally responsible tours. is similar to what you may see in other parts of Asia. Most of them simply serve as brokers for tour com- lonelyplanet. Long-running. www . www. Th Ratchadamri. USA) This Thai cookbook author offers personalised ‘cultural immersion’ tours of Thailand. They’re not very suitable if you’re carrying more than a backpack or small suitcase.com. but if you’re empty-handed they can’t be beaten for quick transport over short distances. Tours with Kasma Loha-Unchit (%510 655 8900.com panies based in Thailand. Of these. 9th fl.starfishvolunteers.i-to-i. 1053 Th Charoen Krung.net. northeastern and eastern lines (see Map p763 for major routes). PO Box 21165. There are two types of săhm·lór – motorised and nonmotorised. Kian Gwan Bldg II.co. Readers interested in pedicab lore and design may want to have a look at Lonely Planet’s hardcover pictorial book. They’re small utility vehicles. Săhm·lór & Túk-túk Săhm·lór means ‘three wheels’ and that’s just what they are – three-wheeled vehicles. Although most drivers around the country operate at safe.com.com. %0 2660 7000. 161/1 Soi Mahatlek Leung 3. www. London SW15 2QZ.co.intrepidtravel. Bangkok) Overseas Companies The better overseas tour companies build their own Thailand itineraries from scratch and choose their local suppliers based on which best serve these itineraries.railway. if the noise and vibration don’t get you. motorcycle taxis also suffer from lack of shelter from rain and sun. %0 2626 2000. Ste 200. for short distances. Oakland. Taxi Bangkok has the most formal system of metered taxis. UK) Volunteer and sightseeing programmes for comfort travellers. with a driver. visit the website for country-specific contact details. Canada) French-language tour operators. You can also travel between cities by taxi but you’ll need to negotiate a price as few taxi drivers will run a meter for intercity travel.thaifoodandtravel.clubaventure . Hands Up Holidays (%0 800 783 3554. covers four main lines: the northern. You’ll find motorised săhm·lór (better known as túk-túk) throughout the country. %0 2233 5900.uk.com) Organises a gap year volunteer and sightseeing package. 2995 Center Green Dr. by Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler. I-to-I (%800 985 4852. There are no bicycle săhm·lór in Bangkok. www. In most cities. With either form of săhm·lór the fare must be established by bargaining before departure.768 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T o u r s TRANSPORT Motorcycle Taxi Many cities in Thailand also have mor·đeu·sai ráp jâhng (100cc to 125cc motorcycles) that can be hired. southern. Exodus (%800 843 4272. TRAIN The government rail network. CO 80301. www. Boulder. Emeryville. sane speeds. In addition to the lack of space for luggage. www. Montreal. Asia Transpacific Journeys (%800 642 2742. TOURS Many operators around the world can arrange guided tours of Thailand.hands upholidays. Starfish Ventures (%44 800 1974817.com. www.asiantrails.southeastasia. USA) Small group highlight tours and speciality trips. www. SG Tower. depending on distance. Bangkok) Diethelm Travel (Map p124. CA 94620. Chasing Rickshaws. a taxi can be a private vehicle with negotiable rates. The train is most convenient as an alternative to buses for the long journey north to Chiang . 1311 63rd St. they buy their trips from a wholesaler and resell them under various names in travel markets overseas. ordinary). FIRST CLASS Each private cabin in a 1st-class carriage has individually controlled air-con (older trains also have an electric fan). pairs of seats face one another and convert into two fold-down berths. usually recliners. notably from the Bangkok Noi station in Thonburi (p183) to Nam Tok (stopping in Kanchanaburi and Nakhon Pathom). rapid or express train. The train is also ideal for trips to Ayuthaya and Lopburi from Bangkok. Note that there are no 3rd-class carriages on either rapid or express trains. one over the other. The southern line splits at Hat Yai: one route goes to Sungai Kolok on the Malaysian east coast border. rapid. but on a crowded rural line nobody seems to care about design considerations. Although they can take longer (trains generally don’t run on time). TRANSPORT Mai or south to Surat Thani. southern. Sleeping berths in 2nd class accrue another 120B to 240B surcharge. A Bangkok–Pattaya spur exists but is slower and less convenient than a bus. as they make fewer stops. a small table and long bench seats that convert into beds. There are several side routes. over 301km. also on the Malaysian border. Four main rail lines cover 4500km along northern. the trains offer many advantages over buses. Commuter trains in the Bangkok area are all 3rd class. For distances under 300km. 2nd and 3rd – but each class varies considerably depending on whether you’re on an ordinary. On the 3rd-class trains there’s also more local commotion: hawkers selling food and drinks. all facing toward the front of the train. nonsleeper carriage are similar to those on a bus. G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T r a i n 769 . in which case there is a 60B to 110B surcharge. Children are always assigned a lower berth. there is a 170B to 180B surcharge. via Yala.com Main Terminals & Routes Almost all the long-distance trains originate from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station. class and train type (special express. For the rót dòo·an pí·sèht (special-express trains) that run between Bangkok and Padang Besar. there is more room to move and stretch out and the scenery rolling by the windows is grander from the vantage point of rail than highway. On some ordinary 3rd-class-only trains. sarong-clad villagers – to name just a few. Some 2nd. Express trains do not carry 3rd-class carriages at all. SECOND CLASS The seating arrangements in a 2nd-class. You can also get to Nakhon Pathom by train from Hualamphong. Drinking water and soap are provided free of charge. the base price is 50B to 80B. Thonburi’s Wong Wian Yai station runs a short commuter line to Samut Songkhram. The lower berth has more headroom than the upper berth and this is reflected in a higher fare. express and special-express trains. First-class carriages are available only on rapid. a washbasin and mirror. On 2nd-class sleeper cars. THIRD CLASS A typical 3rd-class carriage consists of two rows of bench seats divided into facing pairs. To start with. There is a 150B surcharge above the basic fare for rót dòo·an (express trains) and 110B for rót re·ou (rapid trains). with fresh linen for every trip. and between Thung Song and Kantang (stopping in Trang) in the south. Classes The SRT operates passenger trains in three classes – 1st. and between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Costs Fares are determined on a base price with surcharges added for distance.and 3rd-class cars have aircon. with pairs of padded seats. Curtains provide a modicum of privacy and the berths are fairly comfortable. Second-class carriages are found only on rapid and express trains.lonelyplanet. seats are sometimes made of hard wooden slats. These trains are somewhat faster than the ordinary trains. although these cars are being phased out. Air-con 2nd class is more common nowadays than ordinary (fan) 2nd class (with the latter available only on rapid lines). express. northeastern and eastern routes. 110B. the other goes to Padang Besar in the west. babies staring wide-eyed at foreigners. Each bench seat is designed to seat two or three passengers. Bangkok Noi station in Thonburi serves the commuter and the short-line trains running to Kanchanaburi/Nam Tok and Nakhon Pathom. Partial refunds on tickets are available depending on the number of days prior to your departure you arrange for a cancellation. Throughout Thailand SRT ticket offices are generally open 8.or 3rd-class train travel is 3000/1500B per adult/ child including all supplementary charges (ie type of train. There are two types of timetable available: four condensed English timetables with fares. The rates and hours of operation vary from station to station – rates being anywhere from 20B to 70B. schedules and routes for rapid. Bangkok’s Hualamphong station is a good spot to load up on timetables. which usually add a service charge to the ticket price.30am to noon on weekends lonelyplanet. TRANSPORT TRAIN PASSES The SRT issues a Thailand Rail Pass that may save on fares if you plan to use the trains extensively over a relatively short interval.30am to 6pm on weekdays. eg they don’t show all the ordinary trains that go to Ayuthaya and as far north as Phitsanulok. This pass is only available in Thailand and may be purchased at Bangkok’s Hualamphong station. These arrangements can be handled at the train station booking office. TRAIN DINING Meal service is available in rót sà·beeang (dining carriages) and at your seat in 2nd. although the SRT takes great care not to mix genders.com and public holidays. There are also newsagents and small snack vendors. Reservations Advance bookings can be made from one to 60 days before your intended date of departure.th) at least two weeks before your journey. All the meals seem a bit overpriced (80B to 200B on average) by Thai standards. The price of the pass includes seat reservations that. and 8.co. can be made at any SRT ticket office. so if you’re travelling alone you may be paired with another passenger. Menus change as frequently as the SRT changes catering services. Most stations have a ticket window that will open between 15 and 30 minutes before train arrivals. If you are planning long-distance train travel from outside the country. Most train stations have printed timetables in English. Passes must be validated at a local station before boarding the first train. Chinese New Year and during the peak tourist-season months of December and January. These latter timetables give fares and schedules for all trains – ordinary. and side lines.and 1stclass carriages. express and special express trains on the four trunk lines. air-con. Station Services You’ll find that all train stations in Thailand have baggage-storage services (or ‘cloak rooms’). although this isn’t always the case for smaller stations. You will receive an email confirming the booking.770 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T r a i n For a 1st-class cabin the surcharge is 300/500B for upper/lower berth. Train tickets can also be purchased at travel agencies. but no full-service restaurants. . rapid and express. All advance bookings need to be made in person. if required. you should email the State Railway of Thailand (passenger-ser@ railway. The English timetables only display a couple of the ordinary routes. The cost for 20 days of unlimited 2nd. You can make bookings from any train station. etc). and four Thai timetables for each trunk line. Single 1stclass cabins are not available. Pick up and pay for tickets an hour before leaving at the scheduled departure train station. Many Thai passengers bring along their own meals and snacks to avoid the relatively high cost of SRT-catered meals. It is advisable to make advanced bookings for long-distance sleeper trains between Bangkok and Chiang Mai or from Bangkok to Surat Thani during holidays – especially around Songkran in April. For short-distance trips you should purchase your ticket at least a day in advance for seats (rather than sleepers). Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made. Keep all documentation (medical reports. however. In many countries doctors expect payment in cash. they stock all available vaccines and will usually have HEALTH Health risks and the quality of medical facilities vary enormously depending on where and how you travel in Thailand. If carrying syringes or needles be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their medical necessity. and accidental injury (especially as a result of traffic accidents). Travellers tend to worry most about contracting exotic infectious diseases when visiting the tropics. however. VACCINATIONS Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information. The following advice should be read as a general guide only and does not replace the advice of a doctor trained in travel medicine. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications. In Thailand you can buy many medications over the counter without a doctor’s prescription. invoices etc) for claim purposes.000 aren’t uncommon. You may require extra cover for adventure activities such as rock climbing or diving. Most hospitals require an upfront guarantee of payment (from yourself or your insurer) prior to admission. bills of over US$100. but it can be difficult to find the exact medication you are taking. The majority of major cities and popular tourist areas are well developed. diarrhoea and dengue fever are particular hazards in Thailand. . Respiratory infections. ensure you get specific travel insurance. travel to more remote rural areas can expose you to health risks and less adequate medical care. It is safer to bring adequate supplies from home. If your health insurance doesn’t cover you for medical expenses abroad.771 Health Dr Trish Batchelor BEFORE YOU GO CONTENTS Before You Go Insurance Vaccinations Medical Checklist Internet Resources Further Reading In Transit Deep Vein Thrombosis Jet Lag & Motion Sickness In Thailand Availability & Cost of Health Care Infectious Diseases Traveller’s Diarrhoea Environmental Hazards Travelling with Children Women’s Health 771 771 771 772 773 773 773 773 773 774 774 774 777 778 780 780 INSURANCE Even if you’re fit and healthy. It is always wise to inform your insurance company if you seek medical advice whilst abroad. don’t travel without health insurance – accidents do happen. If you take any regular medication bring double your needs in case of loss or theft. If you have a heart condition. Declare any existing medical conditions you have – insurance companies will check if your problem is pre-existing and won’t cover you if it is undeclared. If you’re uninsured. Fortunately most common illnesses can either be prevented with some commonsense behaviour or are easily treated with a wellstocked traveller’s medical kit. but such infections are a far less common cause of serious illness or death in travellers than pre-existing medical conditions such as heart disease. bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior to travelling. emergency evacuation is expensive. Pack medications in clearly labelled original containers. including generic names. Becoming ill in some way is common. is a good idea. as well as scooter/motorcycle riding. For expatriate children under five. Booster recommended after three years. If you are travelling to Thailand from Africa or South America you should check to see if you require proof of vaccination. Note that only one booster is required as an adult for lifetime protection. Tuberculosis A complex issue. Many young adults require a booster. The vaccine offers around 70% protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people. for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery Tinidazole „ antihistamine – there are many options. Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox. eg Betadine „ antispasmodic for stomach cramps. Only one vaccine given in a lifetime. Tablets are also available. Polio There have been no cases for many years in Thailand so no booster required. Side effects are mild and uncommon. Tetanus & Pertussis Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received. The following immunisations are recommended for long-term travellers (more than one month) or those at special risk: lonelyplanet. Rabies Three injections in all. usually headache and sore arm. Occasionally a rash and flu-like illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. before making their individualised recommendations. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people. Recommended Vaccinations HEALTH The following vaccinations are those recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO) for travellers to Thailand: Adult Diphtheria. Measles. Japanese B Encephalitis Three injections in all. The doctors will take into account factors such as your past vaccination history. however the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year. BCG vaccination is highly recommended. Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow booklet). Given as three shots over six months. Side effects are rare – occasionally headache and sore arm. Sore arm and headache are the most common side effects. eg Clotrimazole „ antibacterial cream. Required Vaccinations The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Thailand. Mumps & Rubella Two doses of MMR required unless you have had the diseases. eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine for night „ antiseptic. an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days after any of the three doses. the length of your trip. Those at continued risk (animal workers etc) should discuss booster recommendations with their doctor. eg Buscopan „ contraceptives „ decongestant „ DEET-based insect repellent „ oral rehydration solution for diarrhoea (eg Gastrolyte). such as pregnancy. a booster after six to 12 months likely provides lifetime protection.772 B E F O R E Y O U G O • • M e d i c a l C h e c k l i s t medical kits and other products such as impregnated mosquito nets available. Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea. eg Muciprocin „ antibiotic for skin infections. A rapid schedule is available. activities you may be undertaking and underlying medical conditions. rather than vaccination. Sore arm and fever may occur. Ideally you should visit a doctor six to eight weeks before departure. Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week and only to the major cities. MEDICAL CHECKLIST Recommended items for a personal medical kit include: „ antifungal cream. Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. diarrhoea ‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) and antinausea medication (eg Prochlorperazine) . as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A.com Influenza Particularly recommended for travellers over 55 years of age or with underlying medical conditions such as diabetes or heart disease. discuss this vaccination with your doctor. Rarely. eg Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin „ antibiotics for diarrhoea include Norfloxacin. but it is never too late. Influenza is however common in all ages and the vaccine should be considered by all travellers. Adult long-term travellers or expats are usually recommended to have a TB skin test or Quantiferon blood test before and after travel. Side effects include sore arm and fever. Most vaccines don’t produce immunity until around two weeks after they’re given. No booster required for travellers. malaise or nausea. seek exposure to natural sunlight and readjust your schedule (for meals.lonelyplanet. Lonely Planet (www. Some people find melatonin helpful but it is not available in all countries. the greater the risk. fatigue. FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Healthy Travel – Asia & India is a handy pocket-size book that is packed with useful information including pretrip planning. perform isometric compressions of the leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sitting) and drink plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic). Sedating antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate (Dramamine).com „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ first-aid items such as scissors.who. Elastoplasts. where they can cause life-threatening complications. some may break off and travel through the blood vessels to the lungs. eg Coloxyl migraine sufferer – take along your personal medicine paracetamol Permethrin to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets if at high risk steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes. it may cause chest pain and difficulty in breathing. The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or pain of the foot. HEALTH INTERNET RESOURCES I N T R A N S I T • • D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s 773 . sleep etc) as soon as possible. which is revised annually and is available online at no cost. ankle or calf.au.gov) website has good general information and country-specific advice. usually but not always on one side. chiefly because of prolonged immobility. IN TRANSIT DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS Deep vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when blood clots form in the legs during long trips such as flights. The longer the journey. When a blood clot travels to the lungs.travellingwell. Those at higher risk should speak with a doctor about extra preventive measures such as compression socks or medication. A herbal alternative is ginger. thermometer (but not mercury).cdc. To prevent the development of DVT on long flights you should walk about the cabin. Scopolamine patches are considered the most effective prevention but again are unavailable in many countries. and register your trip if this facility is available. The Thai Red Cross produces an excellent book Healthy Living in Thailand which is strongly recommended. bandages. Travellers with any of these symptoms should immediately seek medical attention.int/ith). Other recommended references include Traveller’s Health by Dr Richard Dawood and Travelling Well by Dr Deborah Mills – check out the website www. gauze. The Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC.com. eg Quick Eze or Mylanta laxative. www. particularly for those staying long term. JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS Jet lag is common when crossing more than five time zones. Prochlorperazine (Phenergan) and others depending on your country of residence are usually the first choice for treating motion sickness. immunisation and disease information and what to do if you get sick on the road. eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet Ural or equivalent if you are prone to urine infections There is a wealth of travel-health advice on the internet.com) is a good place to start. safety pins and tweezers hand gel (alcohol based) or alcohol-based hand wipes ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory indigestion medication. For further information. hat and sunglasses throat lozenges thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment. emergency first aid. sterile needles and syringes.lonelyplanet. To avoid jet lag try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) and eating light meals. Check your own country’s Department of Foreign Affairs page for any current travel warnings. Though most blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully. International Travel & Health is a superb book published by the WHO (www . Their main side effect is drowsiness. it results in insomnia. eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone sunscreen. Upon arrival. which works like a charm for some people. Registering greatly helps if there is an event such as a tsunami that requires the tracing of missing people. If you think you may have a serious disease. The cost of health care is relatively cheap in Thailand compared to most Western countries. To avoid bird flu the following recommendations come from the CDC and WHO: „ avoid direct contact with poultry and wild birds „ lonelyplanet. is particularly common on the beaches of Thailand. eggs) wash hands frequently with alcoholbased hand gel seek medical care quickly if you have a fever.com avoid bird markets and poultry farms only eat thoroughly cooked bird meat or products (chicken. It is easily treated with medications and should not be cut out or frozen. because fake medications and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are common. which makes it even more sensible to ensure you utilise one of the better hospitals if you do require medical care. The southern islands of Thailand are particularly high risk. especially in the cities. Dengue can progress to the more severe and life threatening dengue haemorrhagic fever. Mosquito-avoidance measures are the best way to prevent this disease. Such facilities are listed under Information in the city sections of this book. There is no specific treatment. INFECTIOUS DISEASES Avian Influenza Thailand has recorded a total of 25 cases of ‘bird flu’ since 2004 – the majority of which occurred in 2004. Self-treatment may be appropriate if your problem is minor (eg traveller’s diarrhoea). Your embassy and insurance company can be good contacts. See a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored. however. It is intensely itchy. Hepatitis A The risk in Bangkok is decreasing but there is still significant risk in most of the country. This food. nausea and body aches (dengue was previously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some people develop a rash (which can be very itchy) and experience diarrhoea. however this is very uncommon in tourists. Buying medication over the counter is not recommended. Laos and Vietnam) and there are a number of excellent hospitals in the city. duck. you are carrying the appropriate medication and you cannot attend a recommended clinic or hospital. Some of them have specific staff available for liaising with foreign patients. They are usually more expensive than other medical facilities but are worth using as they will offer a superior standard of care. especially malaria. and then slowly spreads like a winding line. severe headache (especially behind the eyes). especially at night. As there is no vaccine available it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito bites.HEALTH 774 I N T HA I L A N D • • Av a i l a b i l i t y & C o s t o f H e a l t h C a re IN THAILAND „ „ AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE „ Bangkok is considered the nearest centre of medical excellence for many countries in Southeast Asia (such as Cambodia. so use insect-avoidance measures at all times. yet very rare in travellers. just rest and paracetamol – do not take aspirin or ibuprofen as they increase the risk of haemorrhaging. caused by dog or cat hookworm. It is always better to be assessed by a doctor than to rely on self-treatment. it remains difficult to find reliable medical care. sore throat and cough – especially if you may have been exposed Cutaneous Larva Migrans This disease. Symptoms include high fever. do not waste time – travel to the nearest quality facility to receive attention. The risk of this increases substantially if you have previously been infected with dengue and are then infected with a different serotype. Dengue Fever This mosquito-borne disease is becoming increasingly problematic throughout Southeast Asia. The mosquito that carries dengue is a daytime biter. The risk of travellers catching bird flu is minimal – it remains that most of those infected have had close contact with sick or dead birds. At the time of writing there have been no cases reported since January 2007. The rash starts as a small lump.and water-borne virus infects . In rural areas. Filariasis A mosquito-borne disease that is common in the local population. They can also liaise with insurance companies more easily. There is no specific treatment. or long-term expats. Flu is the most common vaccinepreventable disease contracted by travellers and everyone should consider vaccination. hepatitis B is spread by body fluids. have minimal to no risk of malaria. at least 50. Ensure you get expert advice as to whether your trip actually puts you at risk. All travellers to Thailand should be vaccinated against hepatitis A. cirrhosis and death. Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted by the bite of an infected mosquito. Most parts of Thailand visited by tourists. cough or chills may also occur – the same symptoms as many other infections. there is an enormous amount of misinformation concerning malaria. Influenza Present year-round in the tropics. A diagnosis can only be made by taking a blood sample. natural repellents such as citronella can be effective. Remember that malaria can be fatal. however. and prevention is by following safe eating and drinking guidelines. avoid getting tattoos or using unclean needles. In some parts of Thailand up to 20% of the population are carriers of hepatitis B. Malaria For such a serious and potentially deadly disease. diarrhoea. Hepatitis E HIV HIV is now one of the most common causes of death in people under the age of 50 in Thailand. Two strategies should be combined to prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance and antimalarial medications. It can vary from a very mild ailment to a fatal disease. It is a severe problem in pregnant women and can result in the death of both mother and baby. muscle aches. Complications such as bronchitis or middle ear infection may require antibiotic treatment.000 locals are infected each year in Southeast Asia. Most cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is recommended for travellers spending more than one month outside of cities. and usually are unaware of this. you just need to allow time for the liver to heal. runny nose. Most people who catch malaria are taking inadequate or no antimalarial medication. Rarely. Japanese B Encephalitis While a rare disease in travellers. Thailand is a high-risk area. and the risk of side effects from taking anti-malarial tablets is likely to outweigh the risk of getting the disease itself. causing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes). but general symptoms such as headache. Always practice safe sex. nausea and lethargy. Early symptoms are very similar to the flu and include headache and fever. but must be applied more frequently than products containing DEET HEALTH Hepatitis E is transmitted through contaminated food and water and has similar symptoms to hepatitis A. particularly city and resort areas. There is currently no vaccine.com the liver. The long-term consequences can include liver cancer. seek proper medical advice on the right medication and dosage for you. There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A. Hepatitis B The only sexually transmitted disease (STD) that can be prevented by vaccination. This viral disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. The most important symptom of malaria is fever. washing it off at night (as long as you are sleeping under a mosquito net). including sexual contact. and a third of people infected will die. Diagnosis is made through blood tests and it is easily treated with Doxycycline. Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by taking these steps: „ use a DEET-containing insect repellent on exposed skin (20% to 30% is ideal). while another third will suffer permanent brain damage. it can be fatal in those over the age of 40. Before you travel.lonelyplanet. just rest and paracetamol. but is rare in travellers. cough and sore throat. There is no treatment. the risk of contracting the disease outweighs the risk of any tablet side effects. Heterosexual sex is the main method of transmission. For some rural areas. I N T HA I L A N D • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 775 . influenza (flu) symptoms include high fever. Leptospirosis Leptospirosis is contracted from exposure to infected fresh water – most commonly after river rafting or canyoning. There is however significant resistance in parts of northern Thailand. gently wash the wound with soap and water. Ensure you are fully vaccinated. Lariam (Mefloquine) Lariam has received much bad press. thrush in women. If an animal bites you. A final option is to take no preventive medication but to have a supply of emergency medication should you develop the symptoms of malaria. heartburn. It is not recommended. It is rare in travellers. and never lying down within half an hour of taking it. STDs Sexually transmitted diseases most common in Thailand include herpes. syphilis. If you have been sexually active during your travels have an STD check on your return home. . psychosis and having fits. Malarone This drug is a combination of Atovaquone and Proguanil. discharge or pain when passing urine seek immediate medical attention. lumps. It is an excellent tablet. some not. including leptospirosis. ideally impregnated with Permethrin „ choose accommodation with screens and fans (if not air-conditioned) „ impregnate clothing with Permethrin in high-risk areas „ wear long sleeves and trousers in light colours „ use mosquito coils „ spray your room with insect repellent before going out for your evening meal There are a variety of medications available: Artesunate Derivatives of Artesunate are not suitable as HEALTH „ a preventive medication. some of it justified.com but is not available in some countries. Doxycycline This daily tablet is a broad-spectrum antibiotic that has the added benefit of helping to prevent a variety of tropical diseases. More serious side effects include ulceration of the oesophagus – you can help prevent this by taking your tablet with a meal and a large glass of water. Most people born before 1966 are immune as they had the disease in childhood. Immunoglobulin is in short supply and you may well have to travel to Bangkok to get it. Riamet is another good option lonelyplanet. If pre-vaccinated you need just two shots of vaccine given three days apart. Serious side effects are rare but include depression. Measles This highly contagious bacterial infection is spread through coughing and sneezing. followed by five shots of vaccine over 28 days. Fansidar is no longer recommended. Side effects are uncommon and mild. Chloroquine & Paludrine The effectiveness of this combination is now limited in Thailand. Meliodosis This infection is contracted by skin contact with soil. warts. There is no vaccine but it can be treated with medications. nausea and interference with the contraceptive pill. which can limit its use long term. tickborne disease. indigestion. If you are not pre-vaccinated you will need to receive rabies immunoglobulin as soon as possible. You should seek medical advice immediately after any animal bite and commence post-exposure treatment. and apply iodine-based antiseptic. Must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk area. The symptoms are very similar to those experienced by tuberculosis (TB) sufferers. Tablets must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk area. Other options such as Mefloquine and Quinine are less desirable due to side effects.776 I N T HA I L A N D • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s sleep under a mosquito net. Having a pre-travel vaccination means the post-bite treatment is greatly simplified. The potential side effects include photosensitivity (a tendency to sunburn). anxiety. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and chlamydia but not warts or herpes. anxiety. They are useful treatments under medical supervision. typhus and meliodosis. but in some parts of northeast Thailand up to 30% of the local population are infected. most commonly nausea and headache. This is less than ideal. If after a sexual encounter you develop any rash. This weekly tablet suits many people. Anyone with a history of depression. and you’ll need to get to a good medical facility within 24 hours of developing a fever. It is considered safe in the second and third trimesters of pregnancy. gonorrhoea and chlamydia. It must be taken for one week after leaving the risk area. Measles starts with a high fever and rash and can be complicated by pneumonia and brain disease. Rabies This uniformly fatal disease is spread by the bite or lick of an infected animal – most commonly a dog or monkey. other psychological disorders or epilepsy should not take Lariam. If you choose this option the most effective and safest treatment is Malarone (four tablets once daily for three days). There is no specific treatment. however it is expensive. People carrying these diseases often have no signs of infection. traveller’s diarrhoea is Amoebic Dysentery Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers but may be misdiagnosed by poor-quality labs. It is diagnosed by blood tests and treated with antibiotics. This parasite. Most people don’t have other symptoms until their immune system becomes severely suppressed. Traveller’s diarrhoea is defined as the passage of more than three watery bowel movements within 24 hours. medical and aid workers and long-term travellers who have significant contact with the local population should take precautions. The main symptoms are fever. Tuberculosis Typhoid This serious bacterial infection is spread via food and water. . Antibiotics such as Norfloxacin. Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the bacteria quickly. Treatment is available with longterm multi-drug regimens. nausea or feeling generally unwell. It is characterised by an unusual skin rash called larva currens – a linear rash on the trunk which comes and goes. Doxycycline will also prevent them. It gives a high and slowly progressive fever. and therefore responds promptly to treatment with antibiotics. Treatment consists of staying well hydrated. bloody diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. Adults at risk are recommended pre. Symptoms include nausea. and may be accompanied by a dry cough and stomach pain. plus at least one other symptom such as vomiting. cough. with Metronidazole being a second-line option. Giardiasis Giardia lamblia is a parasite that is relatively common in travellers. Seek medical attention quickly if you do not respond to an appropriate antibiotic. Symptoms include fever. Typhus Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a flea whereas scrub typhus is spread via a mite. excess gas. It can be treated with medications. TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA Traveller’s diarrhoea is by far the most common problem affecting travellers – between 30% and 50% of people will suffer from it within two weeks of starting their trip. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers spending more than a week in Thailand. where you are etc. Tinidazole or Metronidazole to kill the parasite in your gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts. You should always seek reliable medical care if you have blood in your diarrhoea. when the parasite can cause an overwhelming infection. fever. Treatment involves two drugs. severe headache. bloating. Air pollution can still be a problem however and HEALTH While rare in travellers. It can be helpful. also transmitted by skin contact with soil. weight loss.com I N T HA I L A N D • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a 777 Strongyloides caused by a bacteria (there are numerous potential culprits). Be aware that vaccination is not 100% effective so you must still be careful with what you eat and drink. but work in Nepal has shown that they are not specific to this infection. You can avoid these diseases by following general insect-avoidance measures. In over 80% of cases. ‘Eggy’ burps are often attributed solely to giardiasis. ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Air Pollution Whilst Bangkok has terrible traffic the good news is the petrol is generally lead free. Vaccination is usually only given to children under the age of five. and is highly recommended for children spending more than three months in Thailand. or blood in your stools. is common in Thailand but rarely affects travellers. Symptoms are similar to bacterial diarrhoea. ie fever.and post-travel TB testing – either with the Mantoux test or Quantiferon blood test. night sweats and tiredness. fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. If left untreated complications such as liver abscesses can occur. These diseases are rare in travellers. depending on your country’s guidelines. Don’t take Loperamide if you have a fever. Treatment with antibiotics will depend on your situation – how sick you are. rehydration solutions like Gastrolyte are the best for this. for example if you have to go on a long bus ride. or travelling outside of the major cities. Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and doesn’t get to the cause of the problem. how quickly you need to get better. The parasite will eventually go away if left untreated but this can take months.lonelyplanet. The treatment of choice is Tinidazole. muscle pains and a rash. cramps. Take it easy when you first arrive. lonelyplanet. Symptoms come on suddenly and include weakness. These measures will help prevent heat exhaustion. nausea. dizziness. pain is the main problem – apply ice to the sting and take painkillers. The result is an itchy rash of tiny lumps. Lice inhabit various parts of your body but most commonly your head and pubic area. on the belly and in armpits. It’s rarely due to disease and is caused by the climate. They live in the cracks of furniture and walls and then migrate to the bed at night to feed on you. Eat in busy restaurants with a high turnover of customers. Locally bought prickly-heat powder can be helpful. Peel all fruit. This pollution can also cause minor respiratory problems such as sinusitis. confusion. If you have had a tick bite and experience symptoms such as a rash at the site of the bite or elsewhere. Leeches are found in humid rainforest areas. Have a dive medical before you leave your home country – there are certain medical conditions that are incompatible with diving and economic considerations may override health considerations for some dive operators in Thailand. resting. Diving Divers and surfers should seek specialised advice before they travel to ensure their medical kit contains treatment for coral cuts and tropical ear infections as well as the standard problems. If you are troubled by the pollution leave the city for a few days and get some fresh air.org). Treat cramps by stopping activity.danseap. Doxycycline prevents tick-borne diseases. and avoiding shellfish and food that has been sitting around in buffets. Parasites Numerous parasites are common in local populations in Thailand. and soak salads in iodine water for at least 20 minutes. Ticks are commonly found behind the ears. Ways to avoid it include eating only freshly cooked food. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to any leech bite to help prevent infection. Creams and ointments clog the skin so they should be avoided. caused by sweat being trapped under the skin.778 I N T HA I L A N D • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s if you have severe respiratory problems speak with your doctor before travelling. Insect Bites & Stings Bedbugs don’t carry disease but their bites are very itchy. get specialised dive insurance through an organisation such as Divers Alert Network (DAN. They do not transmit any disease but their bites are often intensely itchy for weeks afterwards and can easily become infected. fits and eventually collapse and loss of consciousness. www. Heat Many parts of Thailand are hot and humid throughout the year. For most people it takes at least two weeks to adapt to the hot climate. cook vegetables. They can be difficult to treat and you may need numerous applications of an anti-lice shampoo such as Permethrin. Bee and wasp stings mainly cause problems for people who are allergic to them. loss of coordination. dry throat and irritated eyes. rehydrating with rehydration solution and gently stretching. Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy should carry an injection of adrenaline (eg an Epipen) for emergency treatment. For others. You can treat the itch with an antihistamine. Swelling of the feet and ankles is common. Transmission is via close contact with an infected person. fever or muscle aches you should see a doctor. Pubic lice are usually contracted from sexual contact. Treat by moving out of the heat and into an air-conditioned area for a few hours and by having cool showers. Tropical fatigue is common in long-term expats based in the tropics. a hot dry body with a body temperature of over 41°C. inadequate mental rest. The two rules to follow if you wish to avoid parasitic infections are . Heat stroke is a serious medical emergency and requires immediate medical treatment. Ticks are contracted when walking in rural areas. excessive alcohol intake and the demands of daily work in a different culture. but most of these are rare in travellers. Divers should ensure their insurance covers them for decompression illness. Prevent these by avoiding dehydration and excessive activity in the heat. HEALTH Food Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor for contracting traveller’s diarrhoea. Don’t eat salt tablets (they aggravate the gut) but drinking rehydration solution or eating salty food helps. as are muscle cramps caused by excessive sweating.com Prickly heat is a common skin rash in the tropics. Ko Lanta and Pattaya). Of note. Consult a doctor. The initial sting can seem minor. however. difficulty breathing and a feeling of impending doom can develop between five and 40 minutes later. A good rule of thumb. Multi-tentacled box jellyfish are present in Thai waters – these are potentially the most dangerous of jellyfish and a severe envenomation can kill an adult within two minutes. Divers and surfers should be particularly careful with coral cuts as they can easily become infected. sweating. For example in the tropical waters of Australia it is recommended to wear a ‘stinger suit’ – a full length lycra suit. Australia and Thailand are now working in close collaboration to identify the species of jellyfish in Thai waters. and start immediate CPR if they are unconscious. send someone to call for medical help. Keep a close eye on their conscious state and get them immediately to medical care. to wear shoes and to avoid eating raw food. most commonly on the back. It is best to seek medical care quickly in case any other symptoms develop over the next 40 minutes. Skin Problems Fungal rashes are common in humid climates.com I N T HA I L A N D • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 779 JELLYFISH STINGS First Aid for Severe Stings For severe life-threatening envenomations the first priority is keeping the person alive. Cuts and scratches become easily infected in humid climates. nausea. is to presume a box jelly is dangerous until proven otherwise. between December 2007 and May 2008 there were nine serious envenomations in four separate incidents reported from popular tourist beaches (on Ko Tao. If you develop signs of infection (increasing pain and redness) see a doctor. including strongyloides. as well as their ecology – hopefully enabling better prediction and detection of the jellyfish. If the victim is conscious douse the stung area liberally with vinegar – simple household vinegar is fine – for 30 seconds. There has been the occasional death reported from this syndrome as a result of high blood pressure causing strokes or heart attacks. vomiting. hookworm and cutaneous larva migrans. For single-tentacled jellyfish stings pour vinegar onto the stung area as above. especially fish. One of these victims died. however. however severe symptoms such as back pain. these are not yet found on Thai beaches. Thanks to Dr Peter Fenner for the information in this boxed text. early application can make a huge difference. The only effective way to prevent these stings is to provide a barrier between human skin and the jellyfish. There are many types of single-tentacled box jellyfish. There are two main types of box jellyfish – multi-tentacled and single-tentacled. some of which can cause severe symptoms known as the Irukandji syndrome. A number of parasites are transmitted via the skin by walking barefoot. . Stay with the person. Tinea versicolor is also common – this fungus causes small and light-coloured patches. Ko Samet. Two fungal rashes commonly affect travellers. chest and shoulders. however there have been at least 10 tourist deaths in the past 20 years. Not all box jellyfish are dangerous. Multi tentacled jellyfish stinger nets at beaches are also effective. It starts as a red patch that slowly spreads and is usually itchy. Take meticulous care of any cuts and scratches to prevent complications such as abscesses. Immediately wash all wounds in clean water and apply antiseptic. They are generally found on sandy beaches near river mouths and mangroves during the warmer months but can be found at any time of the year. pork and vegetables. and stings range from minor to deadly. armpits and between the toes.lonelyplanet. avoiding chafing and using an antifun- gal cream such as Clotrimazole or Lamisil. The first occurs in moist areas that get less air such as the groin. Treatment involves keeping the skin dry. There are many other jellyfish in Thailand that cause irritating stings but no serious effects. This can be achieved most effectively with protective clothing. HEALTH It is difficult to get accurate statistics on the incidence of serious or fatal jellyfish stings in Thailand. Snake bites are rare in travellers. chest and throat infections. starting at the hand or foot (depending on the limb bitten) and working up towards the chest. Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy. It’s wise to travel with a companion. Azithromycin is considered safe. it is relatively safe from a health point of view if you don’t venture too far off the beaten track. and the fingers or toes should be kept free so the circulation can be checked. apply cool compresses and take painkillers for the discomfort. Immobilise the limb with a splint and carry the victim to medical attention. Children are not mini adults and it is important that you carry a medical kit designed specifically for them. . Urinary-tract infections can be precipitated by dehydration or long bus journeys without toilet stops. One per cent hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily is also helpful. TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN Thailand is a great place to travel with children. If you become sunburnt stay out of the sun until you have recovered. Leave the bandage in place and go to the nearest hospital for evaluation. It is a good idea to carry lonelyplanet. Sunburn Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur rapidly. krait and cobra families are responsible for the majority of serious envenomations. During the first trimester there is a risk of miscarriage and in the third trimester complications such as premature labour and high blood pressure are possible. Avoid rural travel in areas with poor transportation and medical facilities. It is very important that the victim stays immobile. Your personal birth-control option may not be available so bring adequate supplies of your own. of which 85 are at least mildly venomous. and for those spending longer away Jane Wilson-Howarth’s book Your Child’s Health Abroad is excellent. Avoid lying in the sun during the hottest part of the day (10am to 2pm). Many of the drugs used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not recommended in pregnancy. Always wear boots and long pants if walking in an area that may have snakes. The bandage should not be so tight that the circulation is cut off. Some medications that are avoided in countries such as Australia and the US are used frequently in Asia (for example anti-nausea medications). humidity and antibiotics can all contribute to thrush. making sure to reapply after a swim. Various snakes in the viper. ensure travel insurance covers all pregnancy-related possibilities. Advice from the WHO recommends that pregnant women do not travel to those areas with Chloroquine-resistant malaria. Always carry a list of quality medical facilities available at your destination and ensure you continue your standard antenatal care at these facilities.com a general antibiotic (best used under medical supervision) – Azithromycin is ideal as it comes in a paediatric formula and can be used to treat bacterial diarrhoea. WOMEN’S HEALTH Pregnant women should receive specialised advice before travelling. an antihistamine. The ideal time to travel is in the second trimester (16 and 28 weeks). A practical alternative is one tablet of fluconazole (Diflucan). In particular have adequate paracetamol or Tylenol syrup for fevers. including premature labour. Use a strong sunscreen (at least factor 30). and always wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses outdoors. First aid in the event of a snake bite involves ‘pressure immobilisation’ using an elastic bandage firmly wrapped around the affected limb. first-aid supplies. supplies of sanitary products are readily available. It is best to assume any snake is poisonous and never try to catch one. Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to dehydration and result in inadequate blood flow to the placenta. Most of all. when the risk of pregnancy-related problems are at their lowest and pregnant women generally feel at their best. Do not use tourniquets or try to suck the venom out. itch cream. Antivenom is not given automatically and the hospital will assess the severity of the envenomation. By carrying your own medical kit you can avoid using useless or even potentially dangerous medication.780 I N T HA I L A N D • • T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n HEALTH Snakes Over 175 species of snake have been identified in Thailand. Heat. None of the more effective antimalarial drugs is completely safe in pregnancy. nappy-rash treatment and plenty of age-appropriate sunscreen and insect repellent. The Thai Red Cross produces antivenom for many of the poisonous snakes in Thailand. Treatment of thrush is with antifungal creams and pessaries such as Clotrimazole. It is wise to consult a doctor who specialises in travel medicine prior to travel to ensure your child is appropriately prepared. Good resources are the Lonely Planet publication Travel with Children. ear. In Thailand’s urban areas. bring suitable antibiotics. by and large. There are also a number of Thai minority dialects such as those spoken by the Phu Thai. They will often know some English. Northeastern Thai (northeastern provinces towards the Lao and Cambodian borders). consists of 44 consonants (but only 21 separate sounds) and 48 vowel and diphthong possibilities (32 separate signs). is a more polite everyday word for ‘eat’ than gin. Northern Thai (spoken from Tak Province north to the Myanmar border). northwestern Vietnam (Nung. and sĕe-sà for ‘head’ is more polite than hŏo·a. Thai distinguishes between ‘polite’ and ‘informal’ vocabulary. Your first attempts to speak Thai will probably meet with mixed success. civil servants etc. for example. Phuan and other tribal Thai groups. so that tahn. Tho). so communication isn’t as difficult as it may be with shop owners. this apparent amusement is really an expression of appreciation. All Thai dialects are members of the Thai half of the Thai-Kadai family of languages. a fairly recent development in comparison with the spoken language. or point to them if necessary. the more you pick up. The names of major places and food items included in this book are given in both Thai and roman script. Don’t let laughter at your linguistic forays discourage you. Thai students are. it’s better to use the polite terms. Though learning the alphabet is not difficult. which has successfully become the lingua franca of all Thai and non-Thai ethnic groups in the kingdom. Thai Lü). they’re closely related to languages spoken in Laos (Lao. and they’re generally willing to teach you useful Thai words and phrases. the closer you get to Thailand’s culture and people. Thai Daeng. Phu Noi. so unless you’re planning a lengthy stay in Thailand it should perhaps be foregone in favour of actually learning to speak the language. Travellers are particularly urged to make the effort to meet Thai college and university students. so that you can at least ‘read’ the names of destinations or dishes. Thai Dam. Northern Thai. and Southern Thai (from Chumphon Province south to the Malaysian border). the writing system itself is fairly complex. When given a choice. LANGUAGE Learning some Thai is indispensable for travel in the kingdom. since these are less likely to lead to unintentional offence. Northern Thai). Listen closely to the way the Thais themselves use the various tones – you’ll catch on quickly. naturally. . SCRIPT The Thai script.781 Language CONTENTS Dialects Vocabulary Differences Script Tones Pronunciation Transliteration Accommodation Conversation & Essentials Directions Health Language Difficulties Numbers Paperwork Shopping & Services Time & Dates Transport Travel with Children 781 781 781 782 782 783 783 784 784 785 786 786 786 787 788 788 790 DIALECTS Thailand’s official language is effectively the dialect spoken and written in central Thailand. Modern Thai linguists recognise four basic dialects within Thailand: Central Thai (spoken as a first dialect through central Thailand and throughout the country as a second dialect). eager to meet visitors from other countries. Assam (Ahom) and pockets of south China (Zhuang. VOCABULARY DIFFERENCES Like most languages. but keep trying. As such. northern Myanmar (Shan. most of whom reside in the north and northeast. Thai Lü). ‘wood’. This makes it a rather tricky language to learn at first. almost like a ‘b’. sounds In Thai the meaning of a single syllable may be altered by means of different tones – in standard Central Thai there are five: low tone. eg mâi (no/not). Therefore the first rule in learning to speak Thai is to divorce emotions from your speech. including compound vowels. verbal stress. high tone and rising tone. falling tone. For example. sounds something like the sound made when you say ‘hip-bag’ a hard ‘t’ sound. high tone – Usually the most difficult for Westerners. The following is visual representation in chart form to show relative tone values: Low Mid Falling High like the inflection used by English speakers to imply a question – ‘Yes?’. does it?) and you begin to appreciate the importance of tones in spoken Thai. or calling someone’s name from afar. mid tone. PRONUNCIATION The following is a guide to the phonetic system that’s been used for the words and phrases in this chapter (and throughout the rest of the book when transcribing directly from Thai).com TONES rising tone – starting low and gradually rising. our tendency to denote emotion. ‘burn’. the syllable mai can mean ‘new’. in everyday speech it’s often pronounced like ‘l’ Vowels i ee ai ah a aa e air eu u oo ow or o oh eu·a as in ‘bit’ as the ‘ee’ in ‘feet’ as in ‘aisle’ as the ‘a’ in ‘father’ as in ‘about’. as level as possible. at the relative middle of the speaker’s vocal range. The range of all five tones is relative to each speaker’s vocal range so there is no fixed ‘pitch’ intrinsic to the language. half as long as ‘ah’ as the ‘a’ in ‘bat’ or ‘tab’ as in ‘hen’ as in English but with no final ‘r’ sound (for American speakers) as the ‘er’ in ‘fern’ (without the ‘r’ sound) as the ‘u’ in ‘put’ as the ‘oo’ in ‘food’ as the ‘ow’ in ‘now’ as the ‘or’ in ‘torn’ (without the ‘r’ sound) as the ‘o’ in ‘hot’ as the ‘o’ in ‘toe’ a combination of ‘eu’ and ‘a’ . at least until you’ve learned the Thai way to express them without changing essential tone value. this tone is similar to the change in pitch in English when you are emphasising a word. It is low. The dots indicate syllable breaks within words.782 L A N G UA G E • • T o n e s lonelyplanet. no tone mark is used. the interrogative etc through tone modulation often interferes with producing the correct tone. eg máh (horse). It's pronounced near the relative top of the vocal range. but pronounced at the relative bottom of one’s vocal range. The only way to really understand the differences is by listening to a native or fluent non-native speaker. similar to the ‘g’ in ‘good’ a hard ‘p’ sound. depending on the tone. can occur as an initial consonant (practise by saying ‘singing’ without the ‘si’) similar to the ‘r’ in ‘run’ but flapped (ie the tongue touches palate). eg dee (good). eg săhm (three). especially for those of us unaccustomed to the concept of tones. Here are a few exceptions: g Ъ đ k p t ng Rising LANGUAGE r The list below is a brief attempt to explain the tones. falling tone – Starting high and falling sharply. like a sharp ‘d’. ‘not?’ or ‘not’. Even when we ‘know’ what the correct tone in Thai should be. low tone – ‘Flat’ like the mid tone. eg bàht (baht – the Thai currency). ponder the phrase mái mài mâi mâi măi (New wood doesn’t burn. level and has no inflection. sounds something like the sound made when you say ‘mid-tone’ as the ‘k’ in ‘kite’ as the ‘p’ in ‘pie’ as the ‘t’ in ‘tip’ as the ‘nging’ in ‘singing’. mid tone – Pronounced ‘flat’. Consonants The majority of consonants correspond closely to their English counterparts. ? . hôrng sôo·am/ hôrng nám hôrng rórn yen àhp nám pâh chét đoo·a . [hkoryd! gdl^NgVklN hotel Fi'ci} youth hostel [hko gpk. tôw rai per night %no]t keun lá per person %o]t kon lá May I see the room? f)shv'wfhws} doo hôrng dâi măi pŏm/dì·chăn gam·lang hăh .... followed by a short ‘u’ as in ‘put’ oy as the ‘oi’ in ‘coin’ Writing Thai in roman script is a perennial problem – no wholly satisfactory system has yet been devised to assure both consistency and readability. chǎn/pôo·ak row jà òrk wan née bâhn yow·wá·chon toilet room hot cold bath/shower towel shv'lh..dgik&tvvd....com L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s l i t e r a t i o n 783 ee·a oo·a oo·ay ew ee·o aa·ou as ‘ee-ya’ as the ‘our’ in ‘tour’ sounds like ‘oo-way’ as the ‘ew’ in ‘new’ as the ‘io’ in ‘Rio’ like the ‘a’ in ‘cat’ followed by a short ‘u’ as in ‘put’ eh·ou like the ‘e’ in bed.. The Thai government uses the Royal Thai General System of transcription for official government documents in English and for most highway signs.gmjkwi` . vpkdwfh. yàhk dâi . sŏrng đoo·a room with a bathroom shv'mÅ}ushv'oµk hôrng têe mee hôrng nám ordinary room (with fan) shv'Tii}fk hôrng tam·má· Z}uryf]}X dah (mee pát lom) to share a dorm rydBosvryd pák nai hŏr pák How much is it . no matter what devious process was used in its transliteration! When this transliteration is markedly different from actual pronunciation. guesthouse Could you write the address.(o g*upomÅvp)jBshwfhws} bed TRANSLITERATION I’m looking for a ... Where no roman model was available. Added to this is the fact that even the government system has its flaws. Fi'ci}mÅik%k$)dvp)jmÅwso rohng raam têe rah·kah tòok yòo têe năi kĕe·an têe yòo hâi dâi măi LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATION z}!fbCyo de]y'sk.lonelyplanet. Where is a cheap hotel? What is the address? mÅvp)j%nvvtwi têe yòo keu à·rai Do you have any rooms available? }ushv'... hôrng dèe·o double room shv'%)j hôrng kôo room with two beds shv'mÅ}ug^up' hôrng têe mee đee·ang lv'^y..jk'ws} mee hôrng wâhng măi I’d like (a) .yoo² rohng raam I’m/We’re leaving today.. g^up'ovo đee·ang norn single room shv'gfÅp... local variations crop up on hotel signs.. names have been transliterated phonetically.. However. directly from Thai. please? Where is the bathroom? shv'oµkvp)jmÅwso bâhn pák/ hôrng nám yòo têe năi gèt hów Cyo!r. menus and so on in such a way that visitors often become confused. the pronunciation is included (according to the system outlined in this chapter) in parentheses after the transliteration. Generally. city street signs.}! shv'oµk shv' ihvo gpHo vk[oµk zhkg(Hf^y. names in this book follow the most common practice or simply copy their roman script name. chôrp .. thanks. w}j(v[. Where are you from? See you soon.ylfu sà·wàt·dee Z%iy[!%jtX (kráp/kâ) Goodbye... ivgfÙp...? Entrance Exit Information Open Closed Prohibited Police Station Toilets Men Women behind in front of far near not far opposite left right *hk's]y' ^i'sohk wd] Bd]h w}jwd] ^i'*hk} :hkp *....784 L A N G UA G E • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS When being polite... yàhk dâi . the speaker ends his or her sentence with kráp (for men) or kâ (for women).. mee măi My name is .... at the corner at the traffic lights How are you? l[kpfusinv` sà·bai dee rĕu I’m fine. Turn left.ws}!. (I) would like . (+ noun) DIRECTIONS Where is (the) .. I don’t like . It is the gender of the speaker that is being expressed here... fbCyo(Æv....? . Turn right.. Cyo chăn Hello.. w}jgxHowi! mâi Ъen rai/ (You’re welcome) pbofu yin·dee Excuse me...& shv'oµk (kp sPb' (I) would like ... *v kŏr Thank you... (women) }k&kdmÅwso mah jàhk têe nǎi gfÙp.. l[kpfu sà·bai dee What’s your name? %=I(Ævvtwi` kun chêu à·rai z}(Æv... yàhk jà ..*. mah jàhk . w}jB(j mâi châi Please.k lée·o kwăh ^i'}=} đrong mum ^i'wacf' đrong fai daang (Go) Straight ahead.k beach bridge canal countryside (kpskf ltrko %]v' (o[m kâhng lăng đrong nâh glai glâi mâi glai đrong kâhm sái kwăh chai hàht sà·pahn klorng chon·ná·bòt .. mâi chôrp .. B(j châi No.. I like .}uws}` mee .. (Forgive me) *vFmK kŏr tôht I’m from .. *v[%=I kòrp kun That’s fine. }k&kd. ]kdjvo lah gòrn Yes.com SIGNS mk'g*hk mk'vvd mÅ^bf^jvlv[$k} gxbf xbf shk} l$kou^ei. *vv#yp kŏr à·pai Sorry. ror dĕe·o I/me (for men) z} pŏm I/me (for women) fbCyo dì·chăn I/me (informal.... Just a minute.. (v[. pŏm chêu .vpj)mÅwso` . men and women) LANGUAGE You (for peers) %=I kun lonelyplanet....:hkp lée·o sái g]²p..g&vdyoot dĕe·o jeu gan ná }u.. (men) dì·chăn chêu .... (+ verb) vpkd&t.. măi/... yòo têe năi ^i'wx đrong Ъai g]²p. l. vpkdwfh... Do you have . it is also the common way to answer ‘yes’ to a question or show agreement... .y' sov'![Œ' c}joµk mtg] . pkSjkg(³v aspirin pkcvlwribo condoms $='pk'vok}yp contraceptive dki%=}degobf medicine pk mosquito coil pkdyop='c[[&=f mosquito repellent pkdyop=' painkiller pkcdhx. I feel nauseous. g&H[^i'o² Call . i)hlŒd%]Ïowlh róo·sèuk klêun sâi I have a fever. mhv'glup tórng sĕe·a I’m .p Go away! Stop! jèp đrong née mŏr fan hospital ihko*kppk Cyos]'mk' Help! (j..... sojvp s}v ^ei. a doctor the police antiseptic ráhn kăi yah I’m ill.. z}!fbCyo..& rêe·ak .. s}vayo There’s been an accident.ko Ъen rôhk bow wăhn epileptic gxHoFi%]}[hks}) Ъen rôhk lom bâh mŏo chăn lŏng tahng chôo·ay dôo·ay wx:b sp=f Ъai sí yùt! giupd.p z}!fbCyocrh....]bl' penicillin pkgrob:b]]bo đôrng gahn (mŏr) mee ù·bàt·đì·hèt I’m lost...com hill island lake mountain paddy (field) palace pond river sea temple town track village waterfall L A N G UA G E • • H e a l t h 785 g*k gdkt mtg]lk[ #)g*k Zm=j'Xok . I’m pregnant.f pŏm/dì·chăn páa .. yah Ъà·đì·chee·wá·ná yah àat·sà·pai·rin đoo·a pêung tòo·a lí·sŏng yah pair·ní·sin·lin yah kâh chéu·a yah àat·sà·pai·rin tŭng yahng a·nah·mai gahn kum gam·nèut yah yah gan yung bàap jùt yah gan yung yah gâa Ъòo·at LANGUAGE ^´'%ii#Nc]h.yf g}nv' mk' Zs})jX[hko oµk^d kŏw gò tá·leh sàhp poo kŏw (tûng) nah wang nŏrng/beung tá·lair wát nám đòk chăn Ъòo·ay It hurts here.pfh.. nòy mŏr đam·ròo·at I’m allergic to . pŏm/dì·chăn . mâa nám HEALTH ^hv'dkiZs}vX EMERGENCIES . (mòo) bâhn dentist Fi'rpk[k] }uv=[y^bgs^= meu·ang tahng I need a (doctor)..z¯' peanuts $É.. gxHow*h Ъen kâi I have diarrhoea..lonelyplanet.! đâng kan láa·ou rohng pá·yah·bahn chemist/pharmacy Cyoxj . antibiotics pkxDb(u. asthmatic gxHoFi%snf Ъen rôhk hèut diabetic gxHoFi%g[ks.ot aspirin pkcvlwribo bees ^y. wâh yàhng rai pah·săh tai What do you call this in Thai? oÅ#kKkwmpgiupd..com 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 200 300 1000 2000 10..cx]..u:jk wee·sâh ...jkvpjk'wi#kKkwmp .jkvtwi . in Thai? . obfsojvp nít nòy I understand.000 100...jkvtwi nêe pah·săh tai rêe·ak wâh à·rai What does ..000 one million one billion PAPERWORK sŏon nèung sŏrng săhm sèe name nationality date of birth place of birth sex (gender) passport hâh hòk visa g&Hf cxf gdhk lb[ lb[gvHf lb[lv' lb[lk} lb[lÅ lb[shk lb[sd lb[g&Hf lb[cxf lb[gdhk pÅlb[ pÅlb[gvHf pÅlb[lv' lk}lb[ lÅlb[ shklb[ sdlb[ g&Hflb[ cxflb[ gdhklb[ soÃ'ihvp lv'ihvp lk}ihvp soÃ'ryo lv'ryo soÃ's}Æo soÃ'clo soÃ']hko ryo]hko jèt Ъàat gôw sìp sìp·èt sìp·sŏrng sìp·săhm sìp·sèe sìp·hâh sìp·hòk sìp·jèt sìp·Ъàat sìp·gôw yêe·sìp yêe·sìp·èt yêe·sìp·sŏrng săhm·sìp sèe·sìp hâh·sìp hòk·sìp jèt·sìp Ъàat·sìp gôw·sìp nèung róy sŏrng róy săhm róy nèung pan sŏrng pan nèung mèun nèung sǎan nèung láhn pan láhn (Æv chêu lyP(k^b săn·châht gdbf.786 L A N G UA G E • • L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s sunblock cream %iu}dyocff kreem gan dàat cm}rvo taam·porn tampons LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES Do you speak English? %=Ir)f#kKkvy'dAKwfhws} kun pôot pah·săh ang·grìt dâi măi Does anyone here speak English? mÅo²}uB%ir)f#kKkvy'd+Kwfhws} têe née mee krai pôot pah·săh ang·grìt dâi măi How do you say . *vg*upoBshsojvp kŏr kĕe·an hâi nòy Can you show me (on the map)? Bshf)ZBoczomÅXwfhws} hâi doo (nai păan têe) dâi măi NUMBERS 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 L)opN soÃ' lv' lk} lÅ shk sd lonelyplanet. mean? . g*hkB& kôw jai I don’t understand.. LANGUAGE w}jg*hkB& mâi kôw jai Please write it down...yomÅ gèut wan têe gdbfmÅ gèut têe grL pêt soy'lnvgfbo năng·sĕu deun mk' tahng ... plaa wâh à·rai Do you understand? g*hkB&ws} kôw jai măi A little. f)gCpq It’s cheap. How much? gmjkwi How much is this? oÅgmjkwi!dÎ[km I don’t like it..... embassy l$kom)^.. đôrng gahn lâak .. bigger too expensive inexpensive tôw raí nêe tôw rai/gèe bàht BsP‰d.. baht.......jk chék deun tahng èek gxbfdÅF}' Ъèut gèe mohng What time does it close? nóy long xbfdÅF}' lék gwàh Ъìt gèe mohng LANGUAGE How about . the market rah·kah tòok ^]kf paang geun Ъai the museum rbrbT#yIRN ow the post office wxiKIupN đà·làht pí·pít·tá·pan Ъrai·sà·nee a public toilet ]fik%ksojvpwfhws} shv'oµklkTkiIt lót rah·kah nòy dâi măi Can you come down just a little more? ]fik%kvudobfsoÃ'wfhws} hôrng nám săh·tah·rá·ná a restaurant ihkovkski ráhn ah·hăhn a temple lót rah·kah èek nít·nèung dâi măi Do you have something cheaper? .lonelyplanet.. ik%k$)d It’s too expensive.. ..[kmwfhws} săm·nák ngahn tôrng têe·o I want to change .... măi Can I/we change money here? credit cards [y^ig%ifb^ bàt krair·dìt g(H%gfbomk' chék deun tahng travellers cheques c]dg'bomÅo²wfhws} lâak ngeun têe née dâi măi What time does it open? vud ohvp]' g]Hdd... gvk yàhk jà séu . cr'gdbowx I’ll take it. Tok%ki pŏm/dì·chăn gam·lang hăh . money &tBshw}jgdbo..? ráp ..........jk cr'wx ik%k xitspyf mâi chôrp rah·kah Ъrà·yàt I’m looking for . baht? more less smaller paang Ъai a bank Can you reduce the price a little? iy[... bàht ngeun travellers cheques g(H%gfbomk' Do you accept .yf mee tòok gwàh née măi L)opNFmiLyrmN }u$)dd.jko²ws} wát the telephone centre Can you lower it more? sŏon toh·rá·sàp the tourist office ]fvudwfhws} leoyd'komjv' gmÅp.. vpkd&t:³v..[km g'bo jà hâi mâi geun .. w}j(v[ May I look at it? f)wfhws} I’m just looking. sà·tăhn tôot ..com L A N G UA G E • • S h o p p i n g & S e r v i c e s 787 SHOPPING & SERVICES I’d like to buy .. tá·nah·kahn the city centre doo dâi măi B&d]k'g}nv' doo chĕr·i chĕr·i jai glahng meu·ang the . bàht dâi măi I won’t give more than . ^hv'dkic]d.. lót èek dâi măi ... z}!fbCyode]y'sk..ws} yài gwàh . yovy'%ki .30pm What time does the .yo&yomiN . just add the number of minutes following the hour..yovkmb^pN January February March April May June July August September October November December }dik%} d=}#kryoTN }uok%} g}Kkpo rAK#k%} }b$=okpo didDk%} lb'sk%} dyopkpo ^=]k%} rAL&bdkpo Tyo. add the number of minutes beforehand.com shkF}'gpHo sdF}'gpHo soÃ'm=j} lv'm=j} lk}m=j} lÎm=j} shkm=j} For times after the hour.45pm vudlb[shkokmu[jkplÅF}' gèe mohng láa·ou sdm=j}! gmÅp'%no ^usoÃ' ^ulv' ^ulk} ^ulÅ ^ushk sdF}'g(hk soÃ'F}'g(hk shkF}'g(hk gmÅp' [jkpF}' [jkplv'F}' [jkplk}F}' [jkplÅF}'! hòk tûm/ têe·ang keun đee nèung đee sŏrng đee săhm đee sèe đee hâh hòk mohng chów nèung mohng chów hâh mohng chów têe·ang bài mohng bài sŏrng mohng bài săhm mohng bài sèe mohng (lit: afternoon four hours) sèe mohng yen (lit: four hours evening) hâh mohng yen hòk mohng yen nèung tûm sŏrng tûm săhm tûm sèe tûm hâh tûm lÅF}'gpHo 5pm 6pm 7pm 8pm 9pm 10pm 11pm [jkplÅF}'lb[shkokmu èek sìp·hâh nah·tee bài sèe mohng (lit: another 15 minutes four afternoon hours) What time is it? 12 midnight lonelyplanet.yoo² rij='o² g}Æv. leave? bài sèe mohng krêung (lit: four afternoon hours half) . While the Western 12-hour clock divides the day between two time periods. dÅF}'c]h.yor+sylO . jà òrk gèe mohng [jkplÅF}'%iÌ' . 3. The list below shows hours of the 12-hour clock translated into the Thai system.yoL=diN . When? today tomorrow yesterday g}Ævwi . The 24-hour clock is also commonly used by government and media.788 L A N G UA G E • • Ti m e & D a t e s TIME & DATES 4..k%} TRANSPORT Public Transport 4.15pm Telling the time in Thai can be very challenging for an outsider to master.. LANGUAGE 1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 11am 12 noon 1pm 2pm 3pm 4pm bài sèe mohng sìp·hâh nah·tee (lit: four afternoon hours 15) To give times before the hour. am and pm.yoglkiN . the Thai system has four periods...yor=T ..&tvvddÅF}' mêu·a·rai wan née prûng née mêu·a wahn wan jan wan ang·kahn wan pút wan pá·réu·hàt wan sùk wan sŏw wan ah·tít má·ga·rah·kom gum·pah·pan mee·naa·kom mair·săh·yon préut·sà·pah·kom mí·tù·nah·yon ga·rák·gà·đah·kom sĭng·hăh·kom gan·yah·yon đù·lah·kom préut·sà·jì·gah·yon tan·wah·kom .ko Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday . com L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s p o r t 789 What time does the ..gmÎp...wxd]y[ đŏo·a Ъai glàp ^Ü...... I’d like a ticket.. yàhk jà Ъai .gfup... yàhk dâi đŏo·a vpkd&twx.ws} tahng née Ъai . pŏm/dì·chăn yàhk chôw .. nám man rái săan đà·gòo·a Can I park here? airport lok}[bo sa·năhm bin &vfmÅo²wfhws} l$kou*ol•' sa·tăh·nee kŏn sòng &vfmÅow² fhokogmjkwi jòrt têe née dâi nahn tôw·rai xhkpi$g}]N Ъâi rót mair &jkpg'bomÅwso mÅ&vfi$cmUd:Å têe jòrt rót táak·sêe ^hv'dki(jk' l$koui$wa sa·tăh·nee rót fai pk'c[o (ko(k]kmÅ. arrive? ticket office . i$wa$)dpdg]bdc]h.]k đah·rahng wair·lah rót too·a I’d like . timetable ^kik'g.. bus station bus stop taxi stand train station jòrt têe née dâi măi How long can I park here? Where do I pay? jài ngeun têe năi I need a mechanic....]k the first mÅcid the last l=fmhkp krêu·ang bin Private Transport rót fai têe râak sùt tái z}!fbCyovpkdg(jk. rót fai tùk yók lêuk láa·ou The train has been delayed. platform number ..u] motorbike i$}vg^viNw:%N bicycle i$&ydipko rót yon rót foh ween rót mor·đeu·sai rót jàk·gà·yahn Is this the road to .? mk'o²wx... vpkdwfh^Ü. gvkZlk}lb[X]b^i ow (săhm sìp) lít diesel oµk}yoF:]jk nám man soh·lâh unleaded petrol oµk}yowihlki^tdÉ. (´olv' đôo kăi đŏo·a . car pŏm/dì·chăn yàhk dâi .&t$@'dÅF}' . măi x´}xNokµ }yovp)mj wÅ so Ъâm nám man yòo têe năi Where’s a service station? chán sŏrng Please fill it up.. z}!fbCyovpkdwfh.. jà tĕung gèe mohng boat bus (city) bus (intercity) plane train ginv i$g}]N! i$[yl i$my. yahng baan I’ve run out of petrol.lv'B[ đŏo·a sŏrng bai (´osoÌ' chán nèung a return ticket two tickets 1st class 2nd class i$po^N i$FaiN.. 4WD a one-way ticket ^Ü.. s}foµk}yo mòt nám man LANGUAGE The train has been cancelled.. rót fai cháh wair·lah *vg^b}Bshg^H} kŏr đeum hâi đem I’d like (30) litres..iN g%iÆv'[bo i$wa reu·a rót mair/ rót bát ^)h*kp^Ü... chahn·chah·lah têe .. đŏo·a têe·o dee·o ^Ü.. đôrng gahn châhng I have a flat tyre...lonelyplanet.. I want to go to . i$wa(hkg.. I’d like to hire a/an .... k'mk' gdH[g'bomk'fj.790 L A N G UA G E • • T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n I’ve had an accident.. }u.) i$!}vg^viNw:%NglupmÅ.com grà·tŏhn i$g*HogfHd rót kĕn dèk formula (milk) Are children allowed? nom pŏng săm·ràp dèk dèk à·nú·yâht hâi kôw măi o}z'lesiy[gfHd Also available from Lonely Planet: Thai phrasebook gfHdvo=Pk^Bshg*hkws} . i$!}vg^viNw:%Nl^UkiNfw}j^bf rót/mor·đeu·sai sa·đáht mâi đìt TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN Is there (a/an) ..m±'X pâh ôrm (bàap chái láa·ou tíng) LANGUAGE lonelyplanet. mk'vvd Give Way Detour No Entry No Overtaking No Parking Entrance Keep Clear Toll Danger Slow Down One Way Exit (English-speaking) babysitter car baby seat g[ktoÉ'Boi$lesiy[gfHd bò nâng nai rót săm·ràp dèk rÅg]²p'gfHdZmÅr)f#kKkvy'd+KwfhX pêe lée·ang dèk (têe pôot pah·săh ang·grìt dâi) highchair child-minding service gdhkv²l)' bor·rí·gahn lée·ang dèk potty [ibdkig]²p'gfHd gôw·êe sŏong children’s menu ditF$o rai gahn ah·hăhn săm·ràp dèk stroller ikpdkivkskilesiy[gfHd (disposable) nappies/diapers zhkvhv}Zc[[B(hc]h.. măi baby change room shv'gx]ÅpozhkgfHd hôrng Ъlèe·an pâh dèk Bshmk' mk'g[Åp' shk}g*hk shk}c:' shk}&vf mk'g*hk shk}*.ws} mee .. ROAD SIGNS }uv=[y^bgs^= mee ù·Ъàt·đì·hèt The car/motorbike has broken down (at .... rót/mor·đeu·sai sĕe·a têe ..o vyo^ikp *y[(hk]' mk'gfup.. The car/motorbike won’t start.... Pali (P) and Sanskrit (S) words and terms frequently used in this guidebook. the next subdivision down from province amphoe meu·ang – provincial capital AUA – American University Alumni chow nah – farmer CPT – Communist Party of Thailand doy – mountain in the Northern Thai dialect. not to be confused with ‘Brahmin’. from the Sanskrit term acarya amphoe – (amphur) district. see p92. people chow lair – (chow nám) sea gypsies hàht – beach. also called ladyboys gopura (S) – entrance pavilion in traditional Hindu temple architecture. usually referring to dishes made with wild game ajahn – (aajaan) respectful title for ‘teacher’. Thai: rót fai fáh Ъah·đé – batik Ъàk đâi – southern Thailand Ъèe·pâht – classical Thai orchestra Ъohng·lahng – northeastern Thai marimba (percussion instrument) made of short logs ally cross-dressing or transsexual males. usubâhn – (ban) house or village baht – (bàat) the Thai unit of currency bàht – a unit of weight equal to 15g. such as ordinations. For definitions of food and drink terms. ah·hăhn – food ah·hăhn Ъàh – ‘jungle food’. spelt ‘Hat’ in proper names hĭn – stone hŏr đrai – a Tripitaka (Buddhist scripture) hall hŏr glorng – drum tower hŏr rá·kang – bell tower hôrng – (hong) room. jôw means lord. see also wí·hăhn bòr nám rórn – hot springs Brahman – pertaining to Brahmanism. from the Pali term uposatha (ubohsòt). prince or holy being kaan – reed instrument common in northeastern Thailand kàthoey – see gà·teu·i klorng – canal. smaller than a soi fa·ràng –a Westerner (person of European origin). referring to horseriding Yunnanese traders jôw meu·ang – principality chief. spelt ‘Doi’ in proper names đà·làht – market đà·làht nám – water market đam·bon – (tambol) precinct. also guava gà·teu·i – (kàthoey) Thailand’s ‘third gender’. spelt ‘Khlong’ in proper nouns kŏhn – masked dance-drama based on stories from the Ramakian GLOSSARY by monks for receiving alms food bai sĕe – sacred thread used by monks or shamans in certain religious ceremonies ben·jà·rong – traditional five-coloured Thai ceramics BKS – Baw Khaw Saw (Thai acronym for the Transport Company) BMA – Bangkok Metropolitan Authority.791 Glossary This glossary includes Thai. the priestly class in India’s caste system BTS – Bangkok Transit System (Skytrain). an ancient religious tradition in India and the predecessor of Hinduism. rounded bowl used CAT – CAT Telecom Public Company Limited (formerly Communications Authority of Thailand) chedi – see stupa chow – folk. the term used to refer to the previous lives of the Buddha prior to his enlightenment bòht – central sanctuary in a Thai temple used for the monastic order’s official business. often seen in Angkor-period temple complexes góo·ay hâang – Chinese-style work shirt grà·bèe grà·borng – a traditional Thai martial art employing short swords and staves gù·đì – monk’s dwelling . in southern Thailand this refers to semi-submerged island caves hôrng tăa·ou – rowhouse or shophouses Isan – (ee·săhn) general term used for northeastern Thailand jataka (P) – (chah·dòk) stories of the Buddha’s previous lives jeen – Chinese jeen hor – literally ‘galloping Chinese’. next governmental subdivision under amphoe đròrk – (trok) alley. Bangkok’s municipal government bodhisattva (S) – in Theravada Buddhism. Thai: rót fai fáh đâi din naga (P/S) – (nâhk) a mythical serpent-like being with magical powers ná·kon – city. spelt ‘Phra’ in proper names prá krêu·ang – amulets of monks. see also lék nôrk – outside.792 GLOSSARY kon ee·săhn – the people of northeastern Thailand. hermit or sage (Hindi: rishi) rót aa – blue-and-white air-con bus rót Ъràp ah·gàht – air-con bus rót fai fáh – Bangkok’s Skytrain system rót fai tâi din – Bangkok’s subway system rót norn – sleeper bus rót tam·má·dah – ordinary (non air-con) bus or train rót too·a – tour or air-con bus . nobility and Buddha images. small (in size). from the Sanskrit-Pali term mahadhatu má·noh·rah – Southern Thailand’s most popular traditional dance-drama masjid – (mát·sà·yít) mosque mát·mèe – technique of tie-dyeing silk or cotton threads and then weaving them into complex patterns. spelt ‘Laem’ in proper names làk meu·ang – city pillar lá·kon – classical Thai dance-drama lék – little. kon means person kŏw – hill or mountain. spired building in a wát. with a cruciform ground plan and needlelike spire. spirit pin – small. see also noi lí·gair – Thai folk dance-drama longyi – Burmese sarong lôok tûng – Thai country music lôw kŏw – white whisky. three-stringed lute played with a large plectrum pìi-phâat – see Ъèe·pâht pík·sù – a Buddhist monk. spelt ‘Ao’ in proper nouns pâh ka·máh – cotton sarong worn by men pâh mát·mèe – mát·mèe fabric pâh sîn – cotton sarong worn by women pâhk glahng – central Thailand pâhk nĕua – northern Thailand pâhk tâi – see Ъàk đâi pĕe – ghost. Thai folk-rock music ponglang – see Ъohng·lahng poo kŏw – mountain pôo yài bâhn – village chief prá – an honorific term used for monks. escape from the realm of rebirth. spelt ‘Noen’ in proper names ngahn têt·sà·gahn – festival nibbana (P/S) – nirvana. in Buddhist teachings. from the Sanskrit bhikshu. outer. spelt ‘Khao’ in proper names kôw – rice KMT – Kuomintang KNU – Karen National Union kràbìi-kràbawng – see grà·bèe grà·borng ku – small chedi that is partially hollow and open kúay hâeng – see góo·ay hâang kùtì – see gù·đì lăam – cape. Thai: níp·pahn noi – (nóy) little. also called prá pim prá poom – earth spirits or guardians prang – (Ъrahng) Khmer-style tower on temples prasada – blessed food offered to Hindu or Sikh temple attendees prasat – (Ъrah·sàht) small ornate building. Buddhas or deities worn around the neck for spiritual protection. spelt ‘Nakhon’ in proper nouns nám – water nám đòk – waterfall. spelt ‘Nok’ in proper names ow – bay or gulf. used for religious purposes. the term also refers to the patterns themselves metta (P) – (mêt-đah) Buddhist practice of loving-kindness meu·ang – city or principality mon·dòp – small square. located on temple grounds. the state of enlightenment. spelt ‘Nam Tok’ in proper nouns năng đà·lung – Thai shadow play neun – hill. Bangkok’s subway system. any of a number of different kinds of halls or residences with religious or royal significance PULO – Pattani United Liberation Organization râi – an area of land measurement equal to 1600 sq metres reu·a hăhng yow – long-tail boat reu·an tăa·ou – longhouse reu·sĕe – an ascetic. from the Sanskrit-Pali nagara. small (amount). Pali bhikkhu PLAT – People’s Liberation Army of Thailand pleng koh·râht – Khorat folk song pleng pêu·a chee·wít – ‘songs for life’. from Sanskrit mandapa moo·ay tai – (muay thai) Thai boxing mŏr lam – an Isan musical tradition akin to lôok tûng mŏrn kwăhn – wedge-shaped pillow popular in northern and northeastern Thailand MRTA – Metropolitan Rapid Transit Authority. often homemade rice brew lôw tèu·an – illegal (homemade) whisky mâa chee – Thai Buddhist nun mâa nám – river Mahanikai – the larger of the two sects of Theravada Buddhism in Thailand mahathat – (má·hăh tâht) common name for temples GLOSSARY containing Buddha relics. similar to Indonesian ikat. spelt ‘Tha’ in proper nouns tâht – four-sided. Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula. from the Pali term avasa meaning ‘monk’s dwelling’. the realm of rebirth and delusion sangha – (P) the Buddhist community satang – (sà·đahng) a Thai unit of currency. Thailand’s national air carrier thammájàk – Buddhist wheel of law.© Lonely Planet Publications G L O S S A R Y 793 săh·lah – open-sided. usually open to laity. boat landing. new and half ) each month wang – palace wát – temple-monastery. from Sanskrit term vihara. widely spoken in the most southern provinces of Thailand. also spelt ‘sǎwngthǎew’ SRT – State Railway of Thailand stupa – conical-shaped Buddhist monument used to inter sacred Buddhist objects sù·săhn – cemetery tâh – pier. covered meeting hall or resting place. falling on the days of the main phases of the moon (full. held in mid-April sŏo·an ah·hăhn – outdoor restaurant with any bit of foliage nearby. viharn) any large hall in a Thai temple. living at the foot of a tree) undertaken by Buddhist monks.’ . In other words. non-commercial purposes only. common in Northeastern Thailand. spelt ‘That’ in proper nouns tâht grà·dòok – bone reliquary. the written form uses the classic Arabic script plus five additional letters yài – big yâhm – shoulder bag GLOSSARY © Lonely Planet Publications. meaning ‘dwelling’ Yawi – traditional language of Malay parts of Java. 100 satang equals 1 baht sèe yâak – intersection. or resell it.‘Do the right thing with our content. curvilinear Buddha reliquary. from Portuguese term sala. often used to give driving directions sěmaa – boundary stones used to consecrate ground used for monastic ordinations serow – Asian mountain goat sêua môr hôrm – blue cotton farmer’s shirt soi – lane or small street Songkran – Thai New Year. founded by King Rama IV while he was still a monk thanŏn – (tà·nŏn) street. access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. a period of wandering on foot from place to place undertaken by monks túk-túk – (đúk-đúk) motorised săhm·lór ùt·sà·nít – flame-shaped head ornament on a Buddha vipassana (P) – (wí·Ъàt·sà·nah) Buddhist insight meditation wâi – palms-together Thai greeting wan prá – Buddhist holy days. spelt ‘Thanon’ in proper noun and shortened to ‘Th’ T-pop – popular teen-music tràwk – see đròrk trimurti (S) – collocation of the three principal Hindu deities. a monk who undertakes such practices. a small stupa containing remains of a Buddhist devotee tàlàat náam – see đà·làht nám tâm – cave. In return. literally ‘room’ săhm·lór – three-wheeled pedicab săhn prá poom – spirit shrine săm·nák sŏng – monastic centre săm·nák wí·Ъàt·sà·nah – meditation centre samsara (P) – in Buddhist teachings. used as buses/taxis. please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site. mass email it to everyone you know. Shiva and Vishnu Tripitaka (S) – Theravada Buddhist scriptures. spelt ‘Wat’ in proper nouns wá·tá·ná·tam – culture wát Ъàh – forest monastery wí·hăhn – (wihan. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal. Brahma. literally ‘food garden’ sŏrng·tăa·ou – (literally ‘two rows’) common name for small pick-up trucks with two benches in the back. spelt ‘Tham’ in proper nouns tam bun – to make merit tambon – see đam·bon TAT – Tourism Authority of Thailand têt·sà·bahn – a governmental division in towns or cities much like municipality THAI – Thai Airways International. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above . from the Pali dhammacakka Thammayut – one of the two sects of Theravada Buddhism in Thailand. To make it easier for you to use. (Pali: Tipitaka) tú·dong – a series of 13 ascetic practices (for example eating one meal a day.